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Carnaby History
A / W 1 1 Contents Introduction C S W T S C A RN A BY IS KNO W N FOR UNIQUE INDEPENDENT BOUTIQUES , C ON C EPT STORES , GLOBA L FA SHION C F & D N Q BR A NDS , awa RD W INNING RESTAUR A NTS , ca FÉS A ND BA RS ; M A KING IT ONE OF L ONDON ' S MOST H POPUL A R A ND DISTIN C TIVE SHOPPING A ND LIFESTYLE DESTIN ATIONS . T K C S TEP UNDER THE IC ONIC C A RN A BY A R C H A ND F IND OUT MORE A BOUT THE L ATEST EXPERIEN C E THE C RE ATIVE A ND UNIQUE VIBE . C OLLE C TIONS , EVENTS , NE W STORES , T HE STREETS TH AT M A KE UP THIS STYLE VILL AGE RESTAUR A NTS A ND POP - UP SHOPS AT I F’ P IN C LUDE C A RN A BY S TREET , N E W BURGH S TREET , ca RN A BY . C O . UK . M A RSH A LL S TREET , G A NTON S TREET , K INGLY S TREET , M F OUBERT ’ S P L ac E , B E A K S TREET , B ROA D W IC K S TREET , M A RLBOROUGH C OURT , L O W NDES C OURT , G RE AT M A RLBOROUGH S TREET , L EXINGTON S TREET A ND THE VIBR A NT OPEN A IR C OURTYA RD , K INGLY C OURT . C A RN A BY IS LO caTED JUST MINUTES awaY FROM O XFORD C IR C US A ND P Icca DILLY C IR C US IN THE C ENTRE OF L ONDON ’ S W EST E ND . -
Put on Your Boots and Harrington!': the Ordinariness of 1970S UK Punk
Citation for the published version: Weiner, N 2018, '‘Put on your boots and Harrington!’: The ordinariness of 1970s UK punk dress' Punk & Post-Punk, vol 7, no. 2, pp. 181-202. DOI: 10.1386/punk.7.2.181_1 Document Version: Accepted Version Link to the final published version available at the publisher: https://doi.org/10.1386/punk.7.2.181_1 ©Intellect 2018. All rights reserved. General rights Copyright© and Moral Rights for the publications made accessible on this site are retained by the individual authors and/or other copyright owners. Please check the manuscript for details of any other licences that may have been applied and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. You may not engage in further distribution of the material for any profitmaking activities or any commercial gain. You may freely distribute both the url (http://uhra.herts.ac.uk/) and the content of this paper for research or private study, educational, or not-for-profit purposes without prior permission or charge. Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, any such items will be temporarily removed from the repository pending investigation. Enquiries Please contact University of Hertfordshire Research & Scholarly Communications for any enquiries at [email protected] 1 ‘Put on Your Boots and Harrington!’: The ordinariness of 1970s UK punk dress Nathaniel Weiner, University of the Arts London Abstract In 2013, the Metropolitan Museum hosted an exhibition of punk-inspired fashion entitled Punk: Chaos to Couture. -
STILE AL FEMMINILE SECONDO TEMPO Numero 20 Marzo 2012 E-Mail:[email protected], Facebook: Stile Wars L’INDICE
STYLE WARS …avere un look… STILE AL FEMMINILE SECONDO TEMPO Numero 20 Marzo 2012 e-mail:[email protected], http://www.dressersroma.com/stylewars.html, facebook: stile wars L’INDICE . non si punta! PREMESSA PAG.03 INTERVISTA PAG.04 DALLE GRADINATE PAG.07 SATURDAY’S BEST PAG.08 L’ARTICOLO PAG.13 CONFRONTATION STATION PAG.17 SE FOTOGRAFANDO PAG.19 LE CREW PAG.25 MOVIES PAG.27 LIBRI PAG.29 HISTORY BRAND PAG.30 MY RADIO PAG.31 SPAZIO FACCENDINI PAG.38 L’IDIOTA PAG.39 GREETINGS FROM PAG.40 SEGNALAZIONE PAG.41 80 VOGLIA PAG.43 Romaniste PREMESSA Eccoci nuovamente qui per questo numero parzialmente dedicato al gentil sesso, rispetto al numero dell’anno scorso è uscito un po più femminile, sopratutto grazie ai look ed alle recensioni musicali, penso ne sia uscito un buon numero, spero che sia cosi anche per voi, vedremo… Tanto per restare in tema l’ultima edizione del festival di San Remo è stata vinta da Emma con “Non è l’inferno” , tutto sommato la canzone non mi dispiace, le precedenti edizioni erano state vinte da Vecchioni, Scanu, Carta, Ponce/di Tonne, degli ultimi tre non ricordo neanche una strofa della loro canzone, vediamo se quella di Emma me la ricorderò negli anni futuri… Trovo scandaloso che per innalzare l’audience si s/vestano pseudo vallette in modo provocante, i vari direttori del festival dovrebbero pensare più alla qualità delle canzoni, magari scegliendo nelle varie realtà italiane meno commerciali che i soliti raccomandati, inoltre dopo il noto video porno di you porn non sarà certo una farfallina in più a suscitarmi qualcosa… Si apre la stagione primavera/estate ed arrivano le nuove collezioni, ho inserito alcuni dei capi che mi hanno colpito di più, piano piano poi li inserirò tutti. -
…Avere Un Look… AL NOSTRO FIANCO
STYLE WARS …avere un look… AL NOSTRO FIANCO Numero 25 Agosto 2012 e-mail:[email protected], http://www.dressersroma.com/stylewars.html, facebook: stile wars L’INDICE . non si punta! PREMESSA PAG.03 INTERVISTA PAG.04 DALLE GRADINATE PAG.07 SATURDAY’S BEST PAG.09 JACKIE’O PAG.15 L’ARTICOLO PAG.16 CONFRONTATION STATION PAG.17 SE FOTOGRAFANDO PAG.19 LE CREW PAG.24 MOVIES PAG.25 LIBRI PAG.26 HISTORY BRAND PAG.28 MY RADIO PAG.29 L’IDIOTA PAG.36 Il GENIO PAG.37 GREETINGS FROM PAG.38 MODS PAG.39 MODUAL PAG.42 ITALIA - INGHILTERRA PAG.43 80 VOGLIA PAG.45 Un buon motivo per non usare google translate … PREMESSA Prima di tutto gli errori: il Tigre non è retrocesso e Inghilterra – Scozia si giocherà il prossimo anno. Seconda cosa: mi scuso con tutti per il ritardo, causa trasloco, quindi una causa giusta. Non sono un appassionato delle olimpiadi, però mi sono visto con piacere la cerimonia di apertura, è stato uno spettacolo molto incentrato sull’ “Inghilterra regna”, partendo dalla rivoluzione industriale e “l’impero dove non tramonta mai il sole” ed arrivando alla cosa che mi interessa di più: la musica, la loro musica! Il regista di Trainspotting Danny Boyle ha diretto lo spettacolo in maniera egregia mixando benissimo questi vari ingredienti e aggiungendoci inoltre un pizzico di comicità con il siparietto della regina con 007 che si paracadutano nello stadio olimpico e Rowan Atkinson che suona la colonna sonora di “momenti di gloria”. Dal punto di vista musicale è stato quasi inserito tutto compresa una canzone dei Pistols che nel ’77 cantavano contro la regina e gli schemi imposti, chissà lei come l’avrà presa… Ovviamente i commentatori sky non hanno riconosciuto “my generation degli “Who, ne “A message to you Rudy” degli Specials, ne i prodigy, ne gli Arctic Monkey che hanno suonato dal vivo, hanno scambiato i Sex Pistols per i Kiss e non hanno riconosciuto “Forever blowing bubbles”, omaggio al West Ham (e di conseguenza all'East End londinese). -
“Taking It Back, Making It Strong!”: the Boundary Establishment And
"Taking It Back, Making It Strong!": The Boundary Establishment And Maintenance Practices Of A Montréal Anti-Racist Skinhead Gang 9833181 Department of Sociology McGill University For the Completion of the Requirements for the Master of Arts Program Final Draft – September 25, 2002 Committee Members: Dr. Lucia Benaquisto Dr. Prue Rains Research Supervisor: Dr. Prue Rains 2 INTRODUCTION For nearly two decades, the skinhead subculture has been nearly universally associated with the most vile manifestations of racism and violence imaginable. As evidenced by popular culture1, racism is a fundamental component of the mainstream definition of skinhead. It may come as a surprise, then, to discover that not only did the skinhead subculture emerge from uniquely multicultural and multiracial origins and not only are the overwhelming majority of skinheads non-racists, but that a very significant proportion of participants in the skinhead subculture actively identify themselves as anti- racist. One such grouping of anti-racist skinheads was the Montréal chapter of Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice (SHARP). Montréal's first SHARP chapter began in 1991 and folded approximately two years later. In 1996, Montréal racist skinheads began a protracted campaign of ambushes and armed assaults on non- and anti-racist skinheads, culminating in a series of "bar raids" in the summer of 1998 that sent over thirty people to emergency rooms. In response to this threat, SHARP Montréal reformed in late July 1998 (SHARP Montréal, 1999) and consisted of a fairly stable group of around two dozen young men and women. As members of an anti-racist skinhead gang2 SHARP members establish their identities as such in both mainstream and subcultural social settings, and, in doing so, 1 Any number of television programs (Law & Order), movies (American History X, Crimson River, Romper Stomper) and even video games (Sony Playstation 2’s Soldier Of Fortune and State Of Emergency) depict skinheads as being synonomous with racists. -
Representation of Englishness in Skinhead Subculture In
REPRESENTATION OF ENGLISHNESS IN SKINHEAD SUBCULTURE IN SHANE MEADOWS’ FILM THIS IS ENGLAND A THESIS BY: KHAIRUNNISA REG. NO. 1007050690 SUPERVISOR CO-SUPEPVISOR Dr. Siti Norma Nasution, M.Hum Dr. Hj. Nurlela, M.Hum Submitted to the Faculty of Cultural Studies University of Sumatera Utara Medan in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Sarjana Sastra from Department of English DEPARTMENT OF ENGLISH FACULTY OF CULTURAL STUDIES UNIVERSITY OF SUMATERA UTARA MEDAN 2014 Universitas Sumatera Utara Approved by the Department of English, Faculty of Cultural Studies University of Sumatera Utara (USU) Medan as thesis for The Sarjana Sastra Examination. Head, Secretary, Dr. H. Muhizar Muchtar, M.S Rahmadsyah Rangkuti, MA. Ph.D Universitas Sumatera Utara Accepted by the Board of Examiners in partial fulfillment of requirements for the degree of Sarjana Sastra from Department of English, Faculty of Cultural Studies University of Sumatera Utara, Medan. The examination is held in Department of English Faculty of Cultural Studies University of Sumatera Utara on 2014 Dean of Faculty of Cultural Studies University of Sumatera Utara Dr. H. Syahron Lubis, MA NIP.19511013 197603 1 001 Board of Examiners Dr. H. Muhizar Muchtar, M.S ___________________ Rahmadsyah Rangkuti, MA. Ph.D ___________________ Dra. Redita Lubis, Dipl Appl. Ling. M.Hum ___________________ Dr. Siti Norma Nasution, M.Hum ___________________ Universitas Sumatera Utara AUTHOR’S DECLARATION I, KHAIRUNNISA, DECLARE THAT I AM THE SOLE AUTHOR OF THIS THESIS EXCEPT WHERE REFERENCE IS MADE IN THE TEXT OF THIS THESIS. THIS THESIS CONTAINS NO MATERIAL PUBLISHED ELSEWHERE OR EXTRACTED IN WHOLE OR PART FROM A THESIS BY WHICH I HAVE QUALIFIED FOR OR AWARDED ANOTHER DEGREE. -
BAB II GAMBARAN UMUM OBYEK PENELITIAN Bab Ini Berisi
BAB II GAMBARAN UMUM OBYEK PENELITIAN Bab ini berisi mengenai bagaimana sejarah, proses, dan awal terbentuknya kultur anak muda di Inggris yang saat itu dikenal dengan sebutan skinhead. Gambaran umum yang dipaparkan meliputi sejarah terbentuknya kelompok skinhead di Inggris, brand-brand (Dr. Martens, Fred Perry, Ben Sherman, Levi’s) yang digunakan oleh skinhead dan meliputi bagaimana brand-brand tersebut kemudian identik dengan skinhead di Inggris, serta gambaran umum mengenai skinhead di Indonesia. A. Sejarah Skinhead Kelompok skinhead terlahir pada tahun 1960-an yang diawali dengan kelompok fashion anak muda yang dikenal dengan sebutan Mods. Kelompok yang berasal dari Inggris memiliki ciri khas pada bentuk fisiknya dengan potongan rambut yang pendek dan memakai pakaian konservatif. Identitas yang sangat melekat pada kelompok Mods adalah berkendara bersama dengan menggunakan skuter, yakni Vespa. Selain berkendara dengan Vespa, Mods memiliki kebiasaan dengan mengkonsumsi obat-obat euforia dan mendengarkan musik black soul. (www.reocities.com, diakses 12 Mei 2014). 48 GAMBAR 1 Mods Sumber : http://theblogofmowr.blogspot.com/2011/11/mods-and-rockers.html Seperti pada gambar di atas, berkendara bersama dengan skuter, menggunakan jaket parka, setelan jas, celana bahan, dan sepatu jenis loafer menjadi identitas dari kelompok Mods. Hingga di Indonesia pun mengikuti tradisi dari kultur Mods tersebut dengan adanya acara berkendara skuter bersama yang dikenal dengan acara Mods May Day, terlebih untuk memperingati hari buruh. Acara tersebut berlangsung di beberapa kota seperti Jakarta dan Yogyakarta, pada acara tersebut orang- orang di sana juga berpenampilan serupa dengan kelompok Mods di Inggris. Menurut HB, selaku narasumber mengatakan bahwa sampai pada akhirnya banyak masyarakat di Inggris mengikuti style Mods itu sendiri. -
Alan Sillitoe, 2008
##2244 AugAug -- SeptSept 20200088 Design | Art | Film | Web | Business | Magic Dartboard and Dog by Niko Sunglasses (models own) T-Shirts Bantum Clothing, Rikki Finn and ‘Schoolboy tee’ by fourmost films 2 Ilkeston Road Canning Circus Nottingham NG7 3GD www.viewtheshop.co.uk “IN NOTTINGHAM I learned to read and write, and how to spell - lucky! I went hungry now and again, but then was fed by the City; the place nurtured me, for a start in life, because I worked there for a living - which was good; got bombed in 1941 and didn’t get hit! A youth in Nottingham was rich with lovely girls, and friendships never to be forgotten, a town built into my bones and heart, carried with me forever. Always part of me, impossible not to make it live for others as it lived and still does for me - something given back with more than thanks.” Alan Sillitoe, 2008 LeftLion Magazine Issue 24 contents August-September 2008 editorial Youths and Ducks, Have the students gone, then? Wahey! No disrespect, but thank Baby Jesus that Nottingham can stop being so bleddy vibrant and eclectic for a couple of months, and we can all go bear-baiting and morris dancing in the Square again and break our necks running after a massive cheese that’s been rolled down Mansfield Road. And maybe even pull our trousers back over our arses for a bit, because that’s sucky. This issue, LeftLion makes no apologies whatsoever for clearing the decks and devoting the entire mag to 16 two subjects very close to our hearts - Alan Sillitoe and 10 going out on the batter. -
Chapter 4 WHITE PRIDE WORLDWIDE
WHITE PRIDE WORLDWIDE Chapter 4 WHITE PRIDE WORLDWIDE THE END OF HIGH school couldn’t come soon enough. After graduation, a friend from my Vancouver College days named Sean and I left for a two-month summer vacation to England and Spain. The trip was completely separate from my skinhead lifestyle, as the two of us never discussed music or politics, but there were still opportunities for me to explore these areas on my own. I arrived in England first and stayed with relatives for a week until Sean arrived. Without delay, I began exploring London in search of any skinhead clothing, vinyl, or iconic souvenirs that would up my status. The first stop was the Last Resort on Petticoat Lane, deep in East London. This store sold everything skinhead related, from Doc Marten boots to Harrington jackets; Crombie, Ben Sherman, and Fred Perry shirts; and T-shirts printed with every skinhead band, image, or logo. The coolest shirt—and one that evaded my search—was the cover for the album Strength Thru Oi! featuring the menacing pose of Nicky Crane. The album cover was a play on the Third Reich’s Strength Through Joy program, which built seaside spas for workers and their families to enjoy ten thousand at a time, and made the resorts accessible via the autobahns and Volkswagens, or “people’s car.” Nicky Crane was greatly feared throughout London. He was deeply involved in the British Movement, an ultra-nationalist racist organization; was co-founder, with Ian Stuart, of Blood & Honour, a white power music network that organized concerts and published 69 THE CURE FOR HATE a magazine; and ran security for Skrewdriver. -
Transatlantic Translations of the Button-Down Shirt
TranscUlturAl, vol. 6.1 (2014), 97-107. http://ejournals.library.ualberta.ca/index.php/TC Transatlantic Translations of the Button-down Shirt The button-down shirt is an icon of at least two nationally-determined fashion traditions: The United States’ ostensibly upper-class Ivy League style and Britain’s ostensibly working-class subcultural street style. This article explores how the button-down shirt has been translated in these different national contexts. I will use Roland Barthes’ notion of ‘fashion narrative’ to elucidate the close relationship between the button-down shirt and the ‘national imaginaries’ of the United States and Britain. I will first discuss the origins of these two fashion narratives and explore the links between them. To illustrate the lasting impact of these fashion narratives, I will then compare the modern-day publicity materials of two shirt companies closely associated with the button-down shirt in their respective national contexts. PHOTO 1 Caption: An original Troy Guild (a 1960s campus competitor of Gant, much sought-after by collectors of the Ivy Look) In simplest terms, the button-down shirt is a type of shirt on which the collar points are fastened by buttons. Most often seen in menswear, it can be worn formally with a tie or casually, without one. More than just a shirt, it is what fashion scholar Michael Carter, by way of the social theorist Georg Simmel, would refer to as a ‘fashion classic’ (38). Along with other iconic garments like blue jeans and the ‘little black dress’ it seem to possess an internal aesthetic coherence that resists the vagaries of fashion. -
Bandas Latinas
15/11/2018 Bandas Latinas GRUPOS DE IDEOLOGÍA DEFINICIÓN EUROGANG “Grupo juvenil duradero, con orientación hacia la calle y otros espacios públicos y con una identidad grupal definida de forma primordial por la participación en actividades delictivas”. • Grupo: Se exige un mínimo de componentes. • Juvenil: centrado en adolescentes y jóvenes hasta los 22-25 años. • Duradero: El grupo permanece independientemente de sus miembros. • Orientación hacia la calle y espacios públicos: el grupo centra su actividad en las calles, lugares de ocio, etc. • Actividades delictivas: conductas criminales, no sólo conducta antisocial o molesta. • Identidad: se refiere a la del grupo, no de sus componentes, e incluye al menos aceptar su identidad criminal. 1 15/11/2018 MÁS DEFINICIONES • PANDILLA: Grupo de amigos que suelen reunirse para divertirse en común. • ASOCIACIÓN: Conjunto de los asociados para un mismo fin • COMUNIDAD: Conjunto de personas vinculadas por características o intereses comunes • CULTURA: Conjunto de modos de vida y costumbres, conocimientos y grado de desarrollo artístico, científico, industrial, en una época, grupo social, etc. • TRIBU: Grupo grande de personas con alguna característica común, especialmente las pandillas juveniles violentas. Las tribus urbanas. • BANDA:Grupo de gente armada. Pandilla juvenil con tendencia al comportamiento agresivo. • HOOLIGAN: Hincha de comportamiento violento y agresivo • ULTRA::Que es de ideología política extremista, especialmente de extrema derecha, y que normalmente actúa con violencia y radicalidad. OTROS ASPECTOS Dictadura …… los 80´s Customización.. Cultura … subcultura … Tribus … ideología Dos movimientos migratorios Aparición de grupos …bandas … conflicto Nuevo mapa social y político 2 15/11/2018 OTROS ASPECTOS Se amplía la variedad de las nacionalidades/origen de los integrantes Desciende la edad de ingreso. -
Pampered Belle Boutique of the Newest Designs Has a Triple- Is Well Worth the Effort of a Bus-Ride out to Terenure
SUITS BY CLUB 4H PARIS adam manshop DUKE LANE off Gr’~on Street Thursday, 29th January, 1970 DUBLIN UNIVERSITY UNDERGRADUATE WEEKLY NEWSPAPER Price 6d. T.C.D. STUDENTS TERRORISED IN RANELAGH BY A "TRINITY NEWS" REPORTER Students attending a party in Ranelagh early last Sunday morning =~ were attacked, terrorised and beaten up by hooligans. After an hour of fighting and bottle-throwing, the students, including some from Trinity, were rescued by the arrival of Garda Detective-Sergeant "Lugs" Brannigan and his special "smash squad." Two students were i knocked unconscious and two others had to receive hospital attention. Early on the previous morning three students were beaten-up by hooligans just outside the Front Gate of College. The Simon Community was about to sell their hearse for only £40, but instead had it exchanged for a van-- The party, attended by students It is understood that charges are from Trinity, U.C.D. and Bokon being made in connection with the much more serviceable and less morbid. Margaret Hickey and Merrily Harpur (in background) are here Street, was interrupted as about incident and the students may pictured with their unusual service vehicle, which had been donated to Simon by a sympathetic admirer five youths tried to forcibly gain have to vacate the house. Despite of their work with the down-and-outs in Dublin. The Community, however, found it too expensive to tax entrance. A girl was hit and soon the seriousness with which the and run, but when they asked their benefactor if he minded it being sold, he took it back and gave them a after the attack was repulsed a students present viewed the fight- van instead.