OF THE

LIFE AND WORKS

L O R D B Y R O N .

W IT H ORI GI NAL AND S EL ECT E D IN FOR MATION ON TH E SUBJECTS OF THE E NGR AVI NG S

W B R O C . K E D O N ,

M E M BER O F THE ACADE M IES OF FINE ARTS AT FLORENCE AND AT RO M E ;

”

A UTHO R o r THE PAS S ES OF THE AL PS & c . ! ,

VOL . I .

L O N D O N

A L B E M AR L E T J O HN M URR AY, S R EET

SOLD ALSO B Y

R S TI T F T STR T . CHA LE L , LEE EE L O N D O N

- A LE ar m r m LEIC E ER UA R E . . m oyx s C J , ST , ST S! A DV E R T I S E M E N T.

IT has been thou ht desir ab e in m ak n u g l , i g p the fir st Eight Num ber s of these Lan dsc ap e an d Por tr ait Illustr ation s of LORD B YRON in to a

Vo um e to ar r an e them in a m an n er ess de l , g l sultor ythan was th e unavoidable or der of the ir

ub ication an d to accom an the P ate s with p l , p y l

n ts of th e sub e t of the En r avin s fr om acc ou j c s g g ,

m i en ce n fr m or i n a ur e author s of e n a d o gi l so c s.

The Fir st Volum e is thus pr esented to the Public in a c om plete for m ; an d th e succe edi n g Eight

Num ber s of the Wor k wi u on their ublica ll, p p

tion b e ada ted in the sam e wa an d for m an , p y,

elegan t accession to the drawi ng- r oom table an d

to the librar y of illustrated wor ks. V I L L E N E U V E .

' T ITLE- VIGNEITE.

r a wn b . S ta n eld A. R . A. D yC fi ,

THE approach to the lake of Geneva from Italy , on the side of the canton of the Pays de Vaud , is one of i striking beauty , which seldom fa ls to arrest the atten

The b tion of the traveller . lofty mountains that ound the northern shores of this extremity of the lake sprin g

’ almost abruptly from the water s edge ; the castle of

Chillon appears in the extreme distance . Yet it was

the amidst these scenes , on the shores of lake of Geneva , that Lord Byron , as he writes in his j ournal , Septem 1 8 1 81 6 " ber , , met an English party in a carriage ; a lady in it fast asleep —fast asleep in the most anti narcotic place in the world —excellent !” LI ST OF PLATE S .

Dr a wn by m a Skate)

U TI E I E T E A IE . A . R . A VILLENE VE ( TL V GN T ) C ST NF LD , . W T J . R A . . TU R NER . . GIBRAL AR M ,

E R . . . G r. . A I L A A REV J D LACHIN Y GAIR C ST NF D , . . .

A F B L CHIN Y GAIR . G . RO SON . T F E RI I A I IA . N MISS CHAWOR H . STON (O G L M N

T E I B . . A IE A E . A . BELEM CAS L , L S ON C ST NF LD , .

M FonT M S E . R L A A A I L A n A . A E LISBON , F O A D C . T NF D , . . . W P G

T E R . . A I A A A P . L I CIN RA C ST NF LD , . . . C T E L OT

AF D . B ER A EER . M RA RO TS . C . L NDS A D F SAR A OZA F E M I O G . STON .

- D Z Ll EUT . OL B A CA I C . TT Y .

R . E R A I IA A A . . A CAGLIARI , S D N W W ST LL , .

T . UR ER E NA W P S . TA M W A . . . TURNEE R . J A . M L ,

PATRASS M A E . CATTER OLE . . G . W P G A T E A . . A . . A I L n . A E I HAC C . ST NF D , W P G

T U . A IE A . n . A . . PAG E . SAN A MA RA C ST NF LD , W

R . . FU . . A IEL A . . A . A E C OR C . ST NF D , W P G

E A n A . PAG E . A I L . . A A . . Y NIN C ST NF D , W

S E R SKI-3 A F . . I I A ALI P CHA . TON (O G N L

D EL A IE A . n . A . . A E . PHI C . ST NF LD , W P G

E A . n A . P E . A I . A T . . . . CORIN H C ST NF LD , W G

THE A S A HE T. A . CROPOLI , T NS ALL SON TE PL E F JU P T OLYM PIUS M O I ER , W ' ' A IEL A R ' A A E C ' ' ' ATHENS ST NF D ’ P G TEMPL E OF J UPITER OLYM PIUS STANHEL D M ud . . PAG E . C ’ W AT ATHENS

D F AT E S F E T . AL A . MAI O H N . STON . L SON

F A S E T H A E . A E A IE A . E . . . A R NCI CAN CONV N , T NS . C . ST NF LD , W P G R ER CAPE COLONNA W . PU S . T F E A EMPLE O MIN RV , W TUR NER n . A . . M . T A J . . , . A P E L A l ALL SON C CO ONN ,

TA S A R A A . A I P E D B E . E . . . A E SAN OPHI , CONST NT NO L . RO TS, W P G

T H A n A EEEL L m ow: E s u s D . R onEnTs . . . . COCK B o ono u SAN A SOPHIA , T p , R ,

b L ES LI ST OF P AT .

n b F k tch b Dr aw y r om a S e .

J D . AR I SPOLETO . H D NG .

PIAZETTA E ICE . R . , V N S P OUT

R W . MARGUERITA GOGNI G . H . HA LO E

’ A IT R . . . C LCO A VERONA W ,

AKE or o mo . G Ae NEAU . BELLAGIO , L C H

THE I A E . G ASTENEAU . SIMPLON , V LL G H

U R . . A E . J D . A I CHAMO NI . H D NG W P G

T F . . PAGE. CAS LE O CHILLON J . D . HARDING W

HAR DIN . . PAG E . GENEVA J . D . g W

TIIE R I D B J EW . RI I A I I) . IG IT HON . . . LA Y NOEL YRO N W N TON (O G N L M N F RI I A I I ) . STONE . (O G N L M N

The ollowin Vi n ettes whi h we e ublished b M r . M UR RAY f g g , c r p y

com le te edi tion i n 1 2m o o the an d W LOR D B Y p , , f Life orks of

ha ve been a dded to the 4to edition o these Illust a tions f r .

Dr awn by Fr om a S) PORTRAIT OF LORD BYRON FROM A PICTURE B Y SAUNDERS . Z R D A IE A A . CA I C . ST NF LD , . .

TEPELEEN TR E A A C E or ALI A C HA . R ER . , P L P W PU S R T T . A IE A A . CONS AN INOPLE C ST NF LD , . . R T . A IE A . . A . MARA HON C ST NF LD,

T T . . R T A IE A . A A S REE IN A HENS C ST NF LD , .

THE WENGERN ALPS J . D . HARDING .

THE U R M T HE R COLOSSE M, F O O TO R D A I . . . H D NG FA RNESE b T S A A I D I I A J T R ER R A PM M R A ELLA SP NA , P S . M . W . U N , . . W . THE E T J D AR I w HELL SPON . . H D NG . . V ST D V TAL L A R A ES . . . NEW EA ABBEY W . , T T R T F U A T D . E A A A HE O N AIN NEWS EA W W ST LL , . . .

HUCKNELL U R R E E A L A R A NOTT INGHAM S I . . . . CH RCH , W W ST L , THE A T T R R P F J . E R A M PL IN O ROY . M W . U N , . . W . T T F T U HE J T R ER R A HE GA E O HESE S , AT NS . M . W . U N , . . H E H J T R ER R A R IN B . . . BACHARACH , ON T M W U N , . . THE T R R F T J . T E O . . R . A CAS LE O S . ANGEL M W U N , . G IB R A L T A R .

r a wn b M W ur n r R A J . . e . . D y . T ,

’ Through Calpe s straits surveythe steepy shore ; Europe and Afric on each other gaze

a the - and M L nds of dark eyed maid dusky oor .

Childe H a old 22 . r , canto ii . st .

TE E promontory of Gibraltar (the ancient M ount

C its al alpe) derives name from the Arabic, Jebal a ’ a M T rik , being the spot where T rik, the oorish leader , landed to attack Spain . The town of Gibraltar has erroneously been supposed to be built on the site

. s of the ancient Heraclea It appear , however, that

. n Car teia Heraclea was situated ear , five miles to the

M C s i west of ount alpe , where extensive ruins are t ll

. N M visible o remains or coins , excepting of oorish

a . M origin, are found at Gibralt r The oorish castle, whose massy towers are seen above the northern ex tr em it yof the town , was built, according to an Arabic

r n C insc iptio still visible , in the time of the aliph Walid , soon after the period of his landi ng here . It is chiefly constructed of tapia , or cement, moulded in frames , GIBRALTAR. and the whole incrusted with cement of a finer quality

- the cupolas and arches are of brick work . These walls and towers have become so indurated by time , that ,

’ m during the great siege, the shot fro the enemy s cannon made but little impression on them . Gibraltar remained in possession of the M oors from the period 7 1 1 A . D . when they first took it, , for about seven hundred and fifty years, when the Spaniards again got 23 1 704 . d possession of it On the of July , , Sir George

the Rooke , with combined English and Dutch fleets , cannonaded Gibraltar : and a body Of troops under the

’ d Ar m stadt Prince having landed , part on the isthmus north of the town , and part on the southern extremity of the promontory , the place was summoned on the 24th ; after a feeble resistance , this fortress surren d ered to the English , in whose possession it has ever since remained . Its importance is so great , from its commanding the passage which connects the M edi

m terranean with the Atlantic , that attempts were ade 1 705 1 727 in and to dispossess the British ; and finally , in that memorable period when it was so nobly defended

r by General Elliot, with a garrison va ying in amount from five thousand to seven thousand men . The first 1 779 operations of this famous siege took place in July , 1 780 and were continued during that year , and also in 1 7 and 81 . In this period the garrison was deprived of

n regular communication with E gland , and could be GIBR ALTAR . relieved only by the arrival of a powerful fleet ; this t f — was wice e fected once by Admiral Rodney, and sub

. 1 782 sequently by Admiral Darby At last, in , the d Spaniar s , aided by a numerous fleet and army from

- France, made a grand attack by gun boats and floating batteries on the 13 th of September ; but a discharge of red - hot shot from the garrison fired and destroyed the

. w flotilla The follo ing month, a British fleet arrived

r r with succour, and, on the signature of peace in Feb ua y

1 783 h the , the siege was relinquished , and t is key to t M editerranean still apper ains to Great Britain .

M r . In a letter to Hodgson , dated Gibraltar , August 6th 1 809 , , Lord Byron says, I have j ust arrived at this place , after a journey through Portugal and a part

s. t o of Spain of nearly five hundred mile We lef Lisb n , i C and travelled on horseback to Sev lle and adiz, and thence in the Hyperion frigate to Gibraltar . Byron left Gibraltar in the packet for M alta on the

He s a l gth Of August . had intended to pas over to Afric ; but this he afterwards relinquished . Though he resided a fortn ight at Gibraltar, except the beautiful description of his moonlight passage through the straits, it does not

. appear that he found inspiration there for his muse . The siege of Sar agoza drew from him an immortal record of its determined defence ; was it ca price that made him indifferent to the glories of his country , on the spot where they had shone most conspicuously in A GIBRALTAR.

and the whole incrusted with cement of a finer quality

- the cupolas and arches are of brick work . These walls

s and tower have become so indurated by time , that ,

’ m during the great siege , the shot fro the enemy s

cannon made but little impression on them . Gibraltar

remained in possession Of the M oors from the period

A . D . 71 1 when they first took it, , for about seven

hundred and fifty years, when the Spaniards again got 23 d 1 704 possession of it . On the of July, , Sir George

Rooke , with the combined English and Dutch fleets , cannonaded Gibraltar : and a body of troops under the

’ d Ar m stadt Prince having landed , part on the isthmus .

the north of town , and part on the southern extremity

th e of the promontory , place was summoned on the 24th ; after a feeble resistance , this fortress surren

has dered to the English , in whose possession it ever

. t 1 8 since remained Its impor ance so great , from its commanding the passage which connects the M edi

s terranean with the Atlantic , that attempt were made 1 705 1 727 s in and to disposses the British and finally , in that memorable period when it was so nobly defended i by General Elliot, with a garrison vary ng in amount from five thousand to seven thousand men . The first

S 1 779 operations of this famous iege took place in July , 1 780 and were continued during that year , and also in and 1 781 . In this period the garrison was deprived of regular communication with England , and could be I T G BRAL AR . relieved only by the arrival of a powerful fleet ; this ff — was twice e ected once by Admiral Rodney, and sub

. in 1 782 sequently by Admiral Darby At last, , the

s Spaniard , aided by a numerous fleet and army from

un - France, made a grand attack by g boats and floating batteries on the 13 th of September ; but a discharge of red - hot shot from the garrison fired and destroyed the

. The w r flotilla follo ing month, a British fleet a rived

in with succour, and, on the signature of peace February

1 783 was i the , the siege relinqu shed , and this key to

M editerranean still appertains to Great Britain .

M r . In a letter to Hodgson, dated Gibraltar, August 6th 1 809 , , Lord Byron says, I have just arrived at this place , after a journey through Portugal and a part of Spain of nearly five hundred miles . We left Lisbon ,

i an d C and travelled on horseback to Sev lle adiz, and thence in the Hyperion frigate to Gibralta r . Byron left Gibraltar in the packet for M alta on the

s 19th Of August . He had intended to pas over to Africa ; but this he afterwards relinquished . Though he resided a fortnight at Gibraltar, except the beautiful description of his moonlight passage through the straits, it does not

. appear that he found inspiration there for his muse . The siege of Sar agoza drew from him an immortal record of its determined defen ce ; was it caprice that

Of made him indifferent to the glories his country , on the spot where they had shone most conspicuously in

A c GIBRALTAR .

the gallant and unparalleled defence of Gibraltar by

a Elliot, and the not less glorious display of hum nity by C the British , when urtis exposed himself and his crews to so much danger to rescue his Spanish enemies from ! wreck and fire in the destruction of their gun- boats

' Fortunately for Lord Byron s reputation , the omission is not singular . His poetical powers were often dormant amidst scenes associated with events that needed not his — aid to immortality scenes a thousand times more in

r in spi ing, the estimation of common minds, than those over which his muse has shed a lustr e that has bright ened into notice places that would , if unmentioned by him , have remained unknown .

LACHIN Y GAIR .

R o ound L ch na Garr while the stormy mist gathers , Winter presides in his cold icy car Clouds there encircle the form s of m yfathers

Theydwell in the tempests of dark Loch na Garr.

o I Years have rolled on , L ch na Garr, since left you , Years must elapse ere I tread you again

’ N an d flow r s ou ature of verdure has bereft y ,

’ u Yet still are yo dearer than Albion s plain . England thybeauties are tam e an d dom estic To on e who has roved on the mountains afar i Oh for the crags .that are w ld and majestic The steep frowning glories of dark Loch na Garr

Hou s o I l r f d en ess .

IN 1 796 a the summer of the year , after an att ck of scarlet fever, he was removed by his mother for change of air into th e Highlands and it was either at

followm o this time , or in the g year, that they t ok up their residence in a farm - house in the neighbourhood

Ol allater — a , favourite summer resort for health and gaiety , about forty miles up the Dee from Aberdeen .

Though this house, where they still shew with much pride the bed on which young Byron slept, has become naturally a place of pilgrimage for the worshippers of

n genius, neither its own appeara ce , nor that of the

in small bleak valley which it stands, is at all worthy of being associated with the memory of a poet . Within d a short istance of it, however, all those features of I LACHIN Y GA R .

wildness and beauty which mark the course of the Dee

through the Highlands may be commanded . Here the dark summit of Lachi n yGair stood towering before th e eyes of the future bard ; and the verses in which , not many years afterwards, he commemorated this s w ublime object , she that , young as he was at the time ,

’ ” its frowning glories were not unnoticed by him .

’ M L B n oor e s L ife of ord yr o . The view here given is from a sketch made by the

Re . i v . . J D Glennie , from with n a short distance of the

B allatr ech B e cottage or farm of , near allat r, where Lord Byron was taken when a boy ; and to such scenes

n in s i in the Highlands as lay arou d him , his early p rations of the grand and the beautiful in nature may

. w be traced Lachin y Gair , in this vie , is the most ’ e distant object seen from near Byron s r sidence . It — is one of the highest mountains in Scotland rising e about four thousand fe t above the level of the sea , and takes its name from a little lake, or lochan , which lies at the base of some vast precipices of gray gra nite , which overhang it at an elevation of feet .

all This lake is said , as usual of such mountain tarns, to be unfathomable ; but it is exceedingly deep , and the small stream which flows from it passes a long way concealed under the débris of the mountain ; nor submerges even when it reaches the heather and the moss, beneath which the ear alone traces LACHIN Y GAIR .

as its course , except such occasional glimpses its white foam sometimes betrays amidst its dark

Th e Rev . . i J . D Glennie , who v sited the scenes in the Grampians which are associated with Byron , says , hl We asked our guide , a sturdy old Hig ander of seventy , whom we could scarcely restrain from walking

s too fa t for us up the hills , whether there were any fish in the lochan ; on which he told us, with a mysterious look , and in an under tone , that there were plenty , and

o fine fish too , but nob dy ever fished there ; for, as he

’ r had heard say , the last person that t ied it had good sport for some time , but at last he observed a man on the opposite side of the lake , under the rock, fishing i also , throwing his line exactly as he did , and pull ng did out fish only when he it himself. Not knowing what to make of so strange a circumstance , the angler

i his sh fted ground, when , wonderful to relate his opposite neighbour at once vanished ! He was evidently

w as fac s e hese wh ch o se e b B on sto e h It t lik t , i , b rv d y yr , r d is m in d with such beautiful i m ages from nature as that whi ch describes the expression of Selim in the Bride of Abydos

As the str eam late con cea led

B the r in e its il y f g of w lows, ’ When it r ushes r eveal d

In the light qf its billows

As the a u sts o n h h b ll b r ig ,

F om the ac c o u ha o n r bl k l d t t b u d it, ’ Flash d the soul of that eye ” Th ou h the on ash n r g l g l es rou d it. A A L CHIN Y G IR .

' ' ’ something no canny , added the old man , and nobody ” has ever fished in that loch since . In these regions of

‘ m ist, such an apparition might very probably occur, and would be sure to make a lasting impression upon the fears and imaginations Of the superstitious High landers .

’ M r In the view of Lachin y Gair, from . Glennie s

e e sketch , the villag of Ballater is seen rather on the l ft , h r near the banks of t e iver Dee . Its principal objects

’ a r e also shewn in a view given in Robson s Grampian ” Scenery, taken from near the same spot, and are thus

described in that work : The pass of Ballater (which lies on the right of this scene) forms the grand eastern

entrance to the Highlands . It is a very narrow strait , and appears to have been produced by some great con

v ul si n o of nature , which has rent a mountainous ridge w into two parts, and left an a ful chasm between them ,

at the bottom of which is the road . Each side of this

defile is covered with huge stones and masses of r ock f the tremendous e fects of elemental strife , and the ruins

of the mountain . The pass of Ballater differs from most

in of the other great passes the Grampian range, by not

forming the channel ofa river : it is a mere mountain rift .

Dee M l To the south of the river is Glen u ch, the

valley which appears to turn to the left from Ballater ;

it is remarkable for a fine cataract, formed by the river

of the glen , which, after running through a tract of

(3 LACHIN Y GAIR .

a level moor, f lls at once down a perpendicular rock of semicircular form , into a hole of so great a depth , that ,

M r . t according to Pennan , it is supposed by the vulgar to be bottomless .

Lachin y Gair, which occasionally displays its lofty and perpendicular cliffs over the ridges in the

- i a as south west, increases in d gnityof appe rance we advance up the north S ide of the valley ; i ts broad summit gradually assumes a more pointed form , as th e i o angle of v sion changes , and the mountain bec mes fore shortened by perspective . After passing the village of

Cr ath n y, the si king ridges that stretch along the oppo

. site shores of the river di sclose the lower regions of this noble hill . In the very interesting account of the great floods of M 1 829 the province of oray , in August , by Sir Thomas

B t . Dick Lauder, , the sudden and vast increase of the

r f tor ent of the Dee , and its destructive e fects at Ballater, n are related , and with almost the only comic i cidents connected with this awful catastrophe .

The r village of Ballater , formed of regula streets , i a cross ng each other at right ngles , covers a consider able extent of ground immediately below the bend of

1 2 r the river, and about feet above the ordina y level of d the stream . The beautiful stone bridge , esigned by

M r . a r e Telford , consisting of five arches, with an gg

— 200 n gate water way of feet, was throw across from LACHIN Y GAIR .

Of the the centre great square to the opposite bank , in

1 81 9 at an expense of 5000l .

and 3 d The rain hurricane on the of August , at

w as a Ballater , ttended , in the evening, by the brightest r lightning , and the loudest thunder , eve seen or heard there ; and the same shock of ear thquake which was experienced elsewhere was sensibly felt by different individuals in the village and its n eighbourhood . The

’ a o Dee rose gradually till b ut eleven o clock at night , when the same partial subsidence took place which was observed in all the other rivers ; and the inha bitan ts , thinking that all cause for apprehension was now over , retired to rest in full confidence . Ballater is always crowded , during the summer months , with invalids and other visitors , brought together by the

S fame of the chalybeate wells of Pananich , which pring from the side of the wooded h ill on the right bank of the river ; or attracted by the salubrity of the air, and the grandeur of the surrounding scenery . This was the height of the season , and not a house in the village was without some inmate of more than ordinary con se

uen ce . o q Am ng these was a lady , who was suddenly d isturbed , about half an hour after midnight, by voices

talking loud and earnestly under her window ; and the

’ ’ ’ d r oon ed ominous words , flood , deluge , , and hae

She mercy on us a having reached her ears , thought

it was time to inquire what had occasioned them . A L CHIN Y GAIR .

so great a number of passengers as set the laws at defiance . Nor was there any great ceremony used in

the manner of bestowing this overload of human beings .

Ladies and gentlemen , young and old, fat and lean , r h strangers to each othe , were all uddled in together,

h had all anxious to escape, but each wishing t at the rest

an been away , or at least that introduction had taken

c t M u pla e under o her circumstances . any a fair creat re had her slumbers rudely broken ; and a blanket being

Of thrown around her, she was scarcely conscious what . passed , till she found herself hoisted in the arms of

Of some hero , who , rejoicing at the accident, and proud hi s precious burden , was seen gallantly plunging along,

- i h middle deep , with an air that m g t have done honour to a quadrille . It is impossible to say how many of the tedious outworks of courtship were swept away by the flood at Ballater .

the Still waters went on increasing, and so rapidly did they gain on the village, that the house to which the lady and her par ty had fled for refuge was so inundated in half an hour after they reached it , that they were again compelled to move . Still was the crowd of prov incial fashi onables to be seen floundering on . In the midst of a terrified group of grown daugh ters, who were hanging around her, one lady clung to her worthy husband and their dear papa, till the good

c man , who was rather orpulent , had been nearly pressed

LACHIN Y GAIR. .

be a city for aught the traveller knows to the contrar y . It stands half hidden among trees in the rich and

u a diversified vale . On the north rises the mo nt inous C rock of raigdarroch , luxuriantly wooded with birch , and divided off from the bounding mountains of that side of the valley by the wild and anciently impregnable

e Pass of Ballater . Beyond the river , amidst an infinit l variety ofslopes and woods, is seen the tal old hunting tower of Knock ; and behind it distance rises over dis tance, till the prospect is terminated by the long and 1 5 shivered front, and (when I saw it on the th of Octo ber - last) the snow covered ridge of Lochnagar, the nurse of the sublime genius of Byron , who , in his beau tiful little poem, so entitled, still

the L - - ar Sighs for valleyof dark och na g .

LACHIN Y G AIR .

r b F Ro on wn G . bs . D a y .

’ He who first met the Highland s swelling blue

W h w hue ill love each peak t at she s a kindred ,

’ H in m ail each crag a friend s fa iliar face ,

’ n the m n in his m m A d clasp ountai ind s e brace .

' n I r oam d not m Lo g have through lands which are ine ,

the an d Adored Alp , loved the Appennine ,

R an d evered Parnassus , beheld the steep

’ Jove s Ida an d Olym pus crown the deep

’ ’ But w n ot n or t as all long ages lore , all Their nature held m e in their thrilling thrall

The the b o infant rapture still survived y,

’ ’ An d L n a w Id a look d och Garr ith o er Troy,

’ M ix d Celtic m em ories with the Phrygian m ount H i ’ An d ighland linns with Castal e s clear fount .

Isla n d t 11 . . 1 2 . , can o st

THE S E lines are in a poem written within two years

’ of Lord Byron s death, and mark the impressions which the scenes of ' his boyhood had made upon his ” feelings and his memory . When very young , he adds in a note , about eight years of age , after an 1 attack of the scarlet fever at Aberdeen , was removed , by medical advice , into the Highlands ; and from this E LACHIN Y GAIR .

period I date my love of mountainous countries . I f can never forget the ef ect , a few years afterwards , in E ngland , of the only thing I had long seen , even in

M . f miniature , of a mountain , in the alvern Hills A ter C I returned to heltenham , I used to watch them every afternoon , at sunset, with a sensation which I cannot ” describe . M Where it happens , says oore , as was the case with Lord Byron in Greece, that the same peculiar features of nature , over which memory has shed thi s reflective charm , are reproduced before the eyes under i i new and nspir ng circumstances , and with all the accessOr ies which an imagination in its full vigour and wealth can lend them , then , indeed , do both the past and present combine to make the enchantment com pl ete ; and never was there a heart more borne away by this confluence of feelings than that of Byron . In

hi s a poem written about a year or two before death , the poem and passage above quoted , he traces all his enjoyment of mountain scenery to the impressions received during his residence in the Highlands ; and even attributes the pleasure which he experienced in

s gazing upon Ida and Parnassus , far less to cla sic remembrances than to those fond and deep - felt asso cia tion s by which they brought back the memory of his boyhood and Lachin y Gair .

In every recurrence to these early scenes, even in

LACHIN Y GAIR .

w have a more prolonged ascent , and are invested ith the deep green of Scotch fir, or the pine , with which the pale hue of the birch occ asionally mingles . The eminences that rise to the south and are connecte d i with the great mountain of Lach n y Gair , have on their sides an extensive forest of large and ancient pines ; on the north , the rocky front of Ben y Bourd forms a fine boundary to the scene , in an extended range of precipices , whose summits retain traces of ” snow throughout the year .

As a picturesque object, few mountains in the Grampian range are more interesting than Lachin y

Gair . Though its summit stretches horizontally to a

in great extent , it is far from presenting a heavy or

' elegant contour, for even where its broad front is

S displayed to the pectator , the brow of it is diversified by gentle inflections or pointed asperities . The peculiar acuteness of its highest pinnacle is another circumstance of characteristic beauty , which distinguishes this moun tain from its more lumpish neighbours ; but the most sublime feature of Lachin y Gair consists in those im ff w mense perpendicular cli s of granite , hich give such

- impressive grandeur to its north eastern aspect . This stupendous precipice extends upwards of a mile an d a

950 1 3 00 . half in length , and its height is from to feet Lachin y Gair does not enjoy the advantages of an insulated situation with respect to the neighbourin g LACHIN Y GAIR .

hills . On the west it is connected with a number of

s lofty mountain , which extend far into the adjacent counties ; but viewed from some of the stations which ff the banks of the Dee a ord , its altitude surmounts those obstructions to a display of its majestic form , which the inferior eminences contiguous to it present

to the spectator ; and the mountain of Lachin y gair

may justly be esteemed the finest feature that occurs ” in the eastern portion of the Grampian chain .

’ R obson s S cen eryof the G r a mpia ns .

MISS CHAWORTH .

To the same cause , I fear , must be traced the perfect innocence and romance which distinguish this very early attachment to M iss Chaworth from the many

u ff . others that succeeded , witho t e acing it in his heart

Th e his young poet was in sixteenth year , and the object of his attachment about two years older . The M C family of iss haworth resided at Annesley , in the immediate neighbourhood of Newstead ; and when

Lord Byron was on a visit to the latter place , then in t the occupation of Lord Gray de Ru hven , he renewed i C an intimacy w th the haworths , which had begun a Short time before in London ; and during the six weeks

his w of visit , hich he now passed chiefly in her com

n l foun da pany , he drank deep of fasci ation , and aid the tion of that unfor tunate affection which lasted his own life , and to which he has given an immortality . M C w iss ha orth was an heiress of large estates, and

possessed Of much personal beauty ; but the difference

— a ff of two years in their ages di erence which, two

e — years later, would scarcely have b en observed made her feel that his was the affection of a boyfor one who

sc . was con ious of being a woman . It was impossible

that she could be insensible of his love for her ; and Byron was aware that her affections had been given to

. another His own mention of his love for her, and the

circumstances attending it, must acquit her of having tr ifled h with his feelings, or indulged 0pes which she . sa never intended to realise Byron used to y, that when he took his last farewell of her on the hill near

m u Annesley , no one could have told how ch he — felt for his countenance was calm , and his feelings ”

a . n restr ined The ext time I see you , said he in

M r . h parting with her, I suppose you will be s C a

Was . r ecol worth Her answer , I hope so His lection of this scene produced that exquisite passage in M his works , of which oore has said , The picture

u which he has drawn of his youthf l love , in one of D ’ the most interesting of his poems , the ream , shews how genius and feeling can elevate the realities of life , and give to the commonest events and objects an un dying lustre .

I saw two beings in the hues of youth

Standing upon a bill , a gentle hill ,

G an d m the reen of ild declivity, last

’ w the As t ere cape of a long ridge of such ,

was n o Save that there sea to lave its base ,

B ut m n an d the w a ost living la dscape , ave

w an d c or nfields an d the m en Of oods , abodes of

’ S c atte r d an d w n m at intervals , reathi g s oke — Arising from such rustic roofs the hill

’ Was c r own d with a peculiar diadem

’ in a fix d Of trees , circul r array, so ,

M r . M s e s oo her nam e and con n e to use for som e u t r t k , ti u d it

m af e his m w ti e t r arri age ith M iss Chaworth .

G' T MISS CHAWOR H .

N b the m an ot y sport of nature , but of

h two m ai an d w T ese , a den a youth, ere there — Gazing the o n e on all that was beneath — Fair as herself but the b oygazed on her ;

An d w an on e was both ere young , d beautiful

An d w — et in both ere young y not alike youth.

’ the w m on the n As s eet oon horizo s verge , The m aid w as on the eve of wom anhood ;

The b o had w m m t y fe er su ers , but his hear

Had w his an d his e e far outgro n years , to y

w as on e on e There but beloved face arth,

’ And that was shi n i n g on him he had look d Upon it till it could n ot pass away;

He had n o in no breath, being , but hers ;

S he his he n ot her was voice ; did speak to ,

B ut m on he r w she was his S tre bled ords ; ight ,

’ e e follow d an d saw w For his y hers , ith hers , ’ — Which c olour d all his objects z he had ceased

w n m She w as his To live ithi hi self ; life ,

The the ocean to river of his thoughts ,

W m : u hich ter inated all pon a tone ,

w an d flow A touch of hers , his blood ould ebb , — An d his cheek change tem pestuously his heart

U w n nkno ing of its cause of ago y. B ut she in these fond feelings had n o share Her sighs were n ot for him to her he was

' ’ E — n o m w ven as a brother but ore ; t as much,

she was in the m For brotherless , save na e

’ Her infant friendship had b estow d on him Herself the solitaryscion left A‘ T MISS CH WOR H .

’

- - Of a tim e hon our d race. It was a nam e

Wh him an d et him n ich pleased , y pleased not a d — Tim e taught him a deep answer when she loved

n ow she Another ; even loved another, And on the sum m it of that hill she stood

’ Looking afar if yet her lover s steed

K w he r an d ept pace ith expectancy, flew.

’ m A change cam e o er the Spirit of ydream .

w as an an d f There ancient mansion, be ore

’ Its walls there was a steed c apar ison d Within an antique oratorystood

b o w m I - he was The yof ho spake alone ,

An d an d an d : pale , pacing to fro anon

He him w and en and sat do n , seized a p , traced

’ Words which I could n ot guess of then he lean d

’ ’ His h w on his an d w o d head hands , shook as t ere

W — a ith a convulsion then arose gain , And with his teeth a n d q uivering hands did tear

— he n What he had written but shed o tears .

An d he m m an d his w did cal hi self, fix bro Into a kind of quiet : as he paused

’ The ladyOf his love r e - enter d there

h w an d m e an d et S e as serene s iling th n , y

h w she w as b him e — she w S e kne y belov d , kne ,

m w a his For quicklyco es such kno ledge , th t heart

’ W ar ken d w her s w an d she as d ith hado , saw

was w she saw n ot . That he retched , but all

an d w h an d He rose , it a cold gentle grasp

’ He took her hand a m om ent o er his face MISS CHAWORTH .

A tablet of unutterable thoughts

Was an d traced , then it faded , as it came

’ He dr O d an d w pp the hand he held , ith slow steps

R n ot her etired , but as bidding adieu ,

’ For theydid part with m utual sm iles he pass d m m Fro out the assygate of that old hall , An d m ounting on his steed he went his way;

’ ’ An d ne er r e pass d that hoarythreshold more .

w 1 81 1 The following lines , ritten in , will shew with what gloomy fidelity , even while under the pressure of recent sorrow , the poet reverted to this disappoint ment of his early affection

w n an d T ere lo g to tell , vain to hear The tale of one who scorns a tear ; An d there is little in that tale

Which better bosom s would bewail .

' ’ B ut m ine has sufler d more than well

’ Twould suit Philosophyto tell .

’ ' I ve m seen ybride another s bride ,

H her b ave seen seated yhis side , Have seen the infant which she bore

W the w m the ear s eet s ile mother bore , When she a n d I in youth have sm iled As fond and faultless as her child

H her in ave seen eyes , cold disdain,

I n Ask if felt o secret pain .

And I w m have acted ell ypart , And m ade m ycheek belie m yheart MISS CHAWORTH .

’ Retur n d n she the freezi g glance gave ,

’ Yet felt the while tha t wom an s slave

’ H kiss d ave , as if without design ,

w m The babe hich ought to have been ine ,

’ An d shew d alas l in , each caress ,

m had n m h Ti e ot made e love t e less .

Another beautiful address to her was wri tten a few

n days after Byron had been invited to dine at An esley .

M r s. C When the infant daughter of haworth , his fair

in vo hostess, was brought into the room , he started l un tar il difli cult y, and with the utmost y suppressed his emotion . To his sensations at that moment we are indebted for the following intense expression of feeling

W ! ar t and I ell thou happy, feel That I should thus be happytoo For still m yheart regards thyweal

W m w . ar ly, as it was ont to do

’ — ’ Thyhusban d s blest and twill im part Som e pangs to view his happier lot — B ut let them pass Oh ! how m yheart

W him he n ot ! ould hate , if loved thee

W t I saw th hen la e yfavourite child , I thought m yjealous heart would break

But n the m whe unconscious infant s iled , ki ’ ’ I ss d it for its m other s sake . MISS CHAWORTH .

’ ’ kiss d it an d r e r ess d m I , p ysighs Its father in its face to see ;

’ But m then it had its other s eyes ,

An d m e they were all to love an d .

M a m ry, adieu I ust away While thou are blest I’ll not repine B ut near thee I c an never stay

M yheart would soon again be thine .

’ ’ deem d h m I deem d d I t at ti e , that pri e

’ Had q uen ch d at length m yboyish flam e N b th or knew, till seated y yside , — — M in . yheart all , save hope , _ the same

Yet w as I calm : I knew the tim e M ybreast would thrill before thylook But now to trem ble were a crim e — We m et an d . , not a nerve was shook

saw e m I the gaze upon yface , Yet meet with n o confusion there

’ On e onlyfeeling could st thou trace

The sullen calm ness of despair .

Away ! away! my earlydream Remem brance never m ust awake

' Oh where is Lethe s fabled stream !

M . yfoolish heart, be still , or break

182 1 D Again , in , in his iary , he writes Our union would have healed feuds in which blood had

MISS CHAWORTH .

What increases the melancholy character of this un

’ fortunate and unrequited attachment , is , that the lady s marriage was an unhappy one . Lord Byron says , in an unpublished letter written in 1 823 M iss Cha worth m arried a man of an ancient and respectable fam ily, but her marriage was not a. happier one than my own . Her conduct, however, was irreproachable ; but there was not sympathy between their characters .

I had not seen her for many years, when an occasion

Off . ered I was upon the point , with her consent, of paying her a visit , when my sister, who has always had m s ore influence over me than any one else, per uaded ” me not to do it . M C 1 805 iss haworth was married in August , and

1 83 2 conse died at Wiverton Hall, in February , in

uen ce q , it is believed , of the alarm and danger to which C she had been exposed during the sack of olwick Hall ,

N n by a party of rioters from ottingham . The u for tun ate lady had been in a feeble state of health for several years, and she and her daughter were obliged to take shelter from the violence of the mob in a

o shrubbery , where , partly from cold , partly from terr r, her constitution sustained a shock which it wanted vigour to resist .

B E L E M C A S T L E ,

LISBON .

r awn b Stan eld A. R A D yC . fi , . .

On vessel ' flies the , on the , land is gone ,

’ And winds are rude in Biscays sleepless bay. w Four days are sped , but ith the fifth, anon , New shores descried m ake everybosom gay

’ An d C m m on wa intra s ountain greets the their y,

An d nw Tagus dashing o ards to the deep , His fabled golden tribute bent to pay

An d on soon board the Lusian pilots leap ,

’ And steer twixt fertile shores , where yet few rustics reap.

Child e Ha old . . 14 . r , canto i st

AB UT l M r . O twelve eagues , says Kinsey , from

C Feizer ao C ape , is the lofty promontory of the alco da n Rocca , commonly termed by the British avigators

’ ROck m Of the of Lisbon , which for s the termination the high chain of mountains that run in the direction C of intra towards the sea . The highest point of ele vation to which this Serra de Cintra attains is about

the eighteen hundred feet ; the summit, on which Penha convent is situated (and which may be clearly T I . BELEM CAS LE , L SBON

s sea di tinguished at , off the rock , in fine weather, and early in the morning) , wanting about eighty feet of that height . That more immediately of the rock of

m a Lisbon, perpendicularly taken , y be something less than two hundred feet above the level of the shore beneath . The coast is rocky and dangerous ; but on the summit Of the rock there is a tower for a light

of ! house , whose utility let sailors speak A short way

- to the rear of the light house , the land rises up into the mountainous ridge , extending towards the north C east, in the direction of intra , and which we have already designated as the Serra de Cintra . The whole Serra is remarkable for the numerous uneven and detached eminences which successively present them f ’ selves to the eye . The glorious Eden O Cintra is h situated on its nort ern slope, and commands a view of

the the Atlantic down a lovely vale , through orchards

m - Co and le on groves of lares .

About six miles from the Rock of Lisbon , towards the the t - s N east, and near ligh hou e of ossa Senhora

s the . da Guia (after pa sing forts of Guincho , S Braz ,

S . Gorge , and Fort Torre) , is the point of land which

' Of Cascaés forms the western horn the Bay of , upon

whose low flat beach is situated the town of that name ,

at o a distance of ab ut fifteen miles from Lisbon , de

fended by Fort Santa M arta . The chief residence of the pilots who take charge of ships over the bar at

T I . BELEM CAS LE, L SBON

- h and lemon groves, vineyards, and orc ards, and studded

s s with beautiful quintas, or ummer re idences , of the it wealthy Portuguese, and convents whose dazzling wh e appearance contrasted happily with the varied hues of h the surrounding groves. On the sout shore of the

C Tr affr ar ia Tagus, from ape to Almada , there is one

’ c s ontinued scene also of town , detached houses , gar dens, and cultivated grounds, in delightful succession . m I could not help , however , re arking, as we advanced hi up the river, the stream of fiery air w ch came upon

’ ’ ’ off s awful bl ast us the land , like the simoom , and occasioned a forcible anticipation of the ardent heat which awaited our arrival in this land of the sun . The entrance of the Tagus is extremely danger ous, and it requires considerable skill and experience

s to navigate a vessel with safety acros the bar , as the tide and currents are very powerful . There are two passages through the rocky shoals and sand - banks

CachO which form the bar (called the north and south p) , the former of which is narrower than the other, and is C marked in nautical charts as the Little hannel , while f that extending more to the south, and o fering a wider

r C . space , is te med the Great hannel The state of the tide and wind allowed of our passing between Fort

- . Cacho St Julian and the north eastern , or Little p.

' off Tr aflr ar ia Fort Bugio , the headland of , which is at

- once a castle and a light house, may be considered T BELEM CAS LE , LISBON .

as the south - westernmost point of land in the river

Off the C w We now came astle of Belem , here an ofli ce is kept for the registry of all vessels which enter

' and leave the Tagus as well as an establishment of

- f Off Of custom house o ficers, health icers , and a party the naval police for the preservation of property, and the defence of the passage . Belem is nothing more than an ancient tower of three stories , defended by a battery in front, and at — high water is nearly surrounded by the river . Here we were visited by the police “ and health officers ;

British troops at the moment occupying the castle . From this point the view up the river to the east is grand beyond all conception ; and to do the magni

ficen t opening of the scenery justice , the most elaborate description would be perfectly inadequate . The breadth

v of the mighty ri er , crowded with the vessels of every nation ; British and Portuguese men- of- war at anchor and in different states of equipment ; the heights to the south crowned with batteries , villages and vineyards descending down their sides to the very skirts Of the water ; the numerous pleasure - boats gliding swiftly across the river in various directions ; the long unin ter r u ted p line of palaces , convents , houses, running

m along the shore from Bele to Lisbon , under the ele vated ridge upon which the splendid residence of the

x the striking interest of which can scarcely be r epr e ” sented to a northern imagination .

’

M r . Hobhouse , in a note to Lord Byron s lines ” written after swimming from Sestos to Abydos, says , M y companion had before made a more perilous ,

n but less celebrated passage ; for I recollect that , whe we were in Portugal , he swam from Old Lisbon to Belem Castle ; and having to contend with a tide and

w as counter current , the wind blowing freshly , but little ” g less than two hours in crossin .

LISBON .

IT is difficult to find a single author who has written

upon Lisbon , without noticing , that when he has almost exhausted his term s of panegyric upon its beautiful

h e situation and glorious appearance , brings instantly

into contrast with these, the language of utter contempt

. and disgust, at the filth and abominations of this worse

than painted sepulchre .

c on v en As we entered Lisbon last year , after the C ” tion of intra, by the roads leading to it from Vimeira,

C Of says olonel Leach , in his Rough Sketches the ” n ot Life of an Old Soldier, we had , until now, so fair an opportunity of j udging of its appearance from

the Tagus . The country houses and convents on the

side of most picturesque hills, thickly planted with i vines the legion of w ndmills near Belem ; and ,

finally , the city itself, form altogether so enchanting

a picture , that any attempt of mine to do justice must

i n toto inevitably fail . Besides, Lisbon and its river

have been often described by far more able pens . How sadly is a stranger disappointed when he lands and

- d traverses the dirty , rascally streets of this priest ri den

un in ter city , and wades, hour after hour, through one

r u ted p accumulation of disgusting filth , in which the inhabitants appear to glory and rejoice ! Instead of being the most disreputable and dirty place in Europe

(or perhaps on the globe) , it might most assuredly be

- the very reverse . Above the city is one of the finest LISBON .

e aqueducts in the univ rse , from which almost every t stree might , with good management, be constantly f w washed , and every thing o fensive carried do n to the Tagus . But this, it appears, is quite foreign to

Portuguese taste . Let them , therefore , vegetate in the

efil uvia old way, and luxuriate in the to which they have ever been accustomed .

the exhi In midst of all this, however , Lord Byron bits himself in one of his merriest moods : in writing

M r . to Hodgson from Lisbon , he says , I am very happy here , because I loves oranges, and talk bad Latin to the monks, who understand it , as it is like their own ; and I goes into society (with my pocket pistols) , and I swims in the Tagus all across at once, and I rides on an ass or mule , and swears Portuguese, and have got a diarrhoea and bites from the m usq uitos but what of that ! comfort must not be expected by folks that go ” a - pleasuring . Of the particular scene which forms the subject of the annexed Plate, the best description is found to accompany Colonel Batty ’ s view from nearly the same ” i n C spot, his Select Views of the ities of Europe ,

Lisbon , from Almada .

Opposite to Lisbon stands Almada, on the summit , n ff and ear the east end, of the high cli s, which extend along the south bank of the Tagus from thence to the

e sea . From this elevated situation w have a panoramic valley covered with vineyards , behind which there is a gradual ascent of wooded hills , till , at a distance m of several miles , the horizon is bounded by the oun

' tainous d Ar abida r e ridge of the Serra , having the markable castle - crowned rock of Palmella towards the

M Cezim br a east, and the distant oorish castle of towards the west . In the view annexed , the spectator is sup

- dir ec posed to be looking up the river, in a north east tion . Part of Lisbon occupies the left of the sc ene . The convent of the Penha de Franca stands on the A most distant hill on that side . little on the right, N on the adjoining hill , is the chapel of ossa Senhora M da onte . The castle is seen covering the hill yet farther to the right ; and the towers of the church of

St . Vincente , the place of interment of the Portuguese monarchs, crown the summit of the hill near the ex tr em it y of the city . In the line with the towers of

St . Vincente , but nearer to the spectator, are the old LISBON . brown towers of the cathedral ; and in its front,close to the Tagus , are the buildings enclosing the Praga do

C : ommercio these , with the Alfandega , or custom C house , the naval arsenal , and the aes de Sodre , form together an imposing range of edifices . Numerous vessels are spread over the broad bosom of the Tagus the whole , combined with the bold precipitous height of Almada in the foreground , form a striking and ” interesting landscape .

C I N T R A .

r awn b . Stan eld A. R . A. r om Sk a liot . tch b t . El D y C fi , f a e y C p

O 3

’ Lo ! Cintra s glorious Eden intervenes

n n I variegated m aze of mount a d glen .

w n c an en Ah me hat ha d pencil guide , or p , To follow half on which the eye dilates Through views m ore dazzling unto mortal ken

w the Than those hereof such things bard relates, ’ ’ 7 Who to the awe - struck world un lock d Elysium s gates

’ The b c r own d horrid crags ytoppling convent ,

- The cork trees hoar that clothe the shaggysteep ,

’ b im b r own d The mountain moss yscorching skies , w w The sunken glen hose sunless shrubs must eep ,

the un r ufil ed The tender azure of deep ,

the The orange tints that gild greenest bough ,

The n m f torre ts that fro cli f to valleyleap ,

The on w l - w vine high, the i low branch belo ,

’

M ix d in on e m w . ightyscene , with varied beautyglo

Childe Ha old . st . 1 8 r , canto i ,

THE C village of intra , about fifteen miles from the capital , is perhaps, in every respect, the most delightful

: d i in Europe it contains beauties of every escr ption ,

M CINTRA .

On another are the ruins of a M oorish castle , and a

cistern within its boundaries , kept always full by a

spring of the purest water that rises in it . From this

elevation the eye str etches over a bare and melancholy

country , to Lisbon on the one side , and , on the other, to the distant convent of M afra ; the Atlantic bounding

. I the greater part of the prospect cannot , without a

- tedious minuteness, describe the ever varying prospects that the many eminences of this wild rock present , or

n the little green lanes, over whose borderi g lemon ” gardens the evening wind blows so cool and rich . M urphy , who published his Travels in Portugal

1 795 . 244 u in , says , p , that abo t thirty years ago, a foreign gentleman discovered a mine of loadstone in this mountain . What suggested the idea of it were h the herbs t at grew immediately over it, which were of a pale colour, and more feeble than the adjacent plants of the same species . Having dug about six feet deep , he found a fine vein ; but as the mountain is a mass of disjointed rocks and clay, he could not proceed further without propping as he excavated . Government therefore , apprehending the produce would not defray the

’ expense, ordered it to be shut up . Is this fact capable ! of bein g illustrated by electrico- magnetic researches All travellers seem to agree upon the strikingly f beautiful e fect of the first appearance of Cintra . Thus K insey describes it CINTRA.

We at length began to wind round the rock on

u which a little chapel is sit ated , to the left above the

C was road , when intra at once disclosed to our longing

s expectations , with its fore t scenery of oak and cork

trees , its royal palace, numerous quintas shining amid

the orange and lemon- groves which adorn the declivity M of the oorish hill , and a lovely valley to the right , Where nature i s beheld in her richest and greenest

garb, extending down to the sea, whose golden waves

reflected at the moment the rays of the setting sun ; and sunsets can in no part of the world be more asto n i h s in g and glorious than in Portugal . When Lisbon d is entirely burnt up and fainting un er oppressive heat , the inhabitants of this favoured spot are enjoying their

- mountain rills and delightfully refreshing verdure , and an atmosphere more than ten degrees cooler, from its ” — . P o tu l I u northern aspect, than at the capital r g a ll s

tr a ted . 1 28 . , p But all these accounts are heightened in effect by being brought into immediate contrast , by authors who have just escaped the filth , and heat , and discomfort of Lisbon ; and something of the same feeling is imparted d to their readers, to whom the escription of fountains , gardens , fresh breezes, and pure air, is made to follow the disgusting account of those offences which in Lisbon had passed betwixt the wind and their nobility .

N

M A F R A .

r awn b Rober ts r om a Sketch b . La ndseer . D yD . , f yC

M on e m m a Yet afra shall mo ent clai del y,

’ Where dwelt of yore the Lusians luckless queen

An d an d m church court did ingle their array, An d mas s an d revel were alternate seen

— - Lordlings an d freres ill sorted fr yI ween ! B ut here the Babylonian whore hath built

m she in A do e , where flaunts such glorious sheen ,

m en t she That forget the blood hat hath spilt ,

An d bow the knee to pom p that loves to varnish guilt .

Childe Ha old 29 . r , canto i . st .

O T C AB U ten miles to the right of intra, says

r i e Lo d Byron , in a letter to his mother, s th palace of M afra , the boast of Portugal, as it might be of any country , in point of magnificence , without elegance .

: There is a convent annexed the monks, who possess

s large revenues , are courteous enough, and under tand

Latin so that we had a long conversation . They have

n a large library, and asked me if the English had a y ” books in their country . The palace of M afra is one of those numerous ex amples of magn ificent structures raised in consequence M AFRA . of vows made during the sufferings or embarrassments of those who had the power to perform them John V .

(the fourth monarch of the house of Braganza) having , during a dangerous illness , vowed to erect, upon his

recovery , a convent for the use of the poorest friary in

' the kingdom ; and finding upon in quir y that this was M at afra, where twelve Franciscans lived together in

b ut 1 71 7 a , he redeemed his vow, by erecting there , in , the present gorgeous palace . — M afra ! At this place is an amazing structure a palace and convent founded by the late king , in con sequence of a v ow made by him to Saint Anthony ; emulating, through vanity and a desire of religious

s . fame , the o tentation of Philip II , who built the

Escurial . It is a most stupendous work , but bears not so noble an appearance as the Escurial , though it is much more decorated , and richer in marble . The vestry , consistory , and rectory , are handsome . In the church the altars are costly ; and there are many ver y

c fine marble columns , each of one blo k . The convent

r was originally intended for the F anciscans .

In the palace are prodigious suites of apartments, as its extent is the external square, the convent and

m church forming the internal . The roo intended for the library is very spacious and handsome . Here — centre pride and poverty , folly and arrogance ; a stately palace with bare walls , a sumptuous convent M AFRA .

’ ' for supercilious priests ! - M ajor D a lr ymple s Tr a vels

‘ i n i n n r u l 13 . S a u d. P o t a . 5 p g , p

. 452 Kinsey , in his Portugal Illustrated , . p . , says ,

' d an d the al ace - The ome towers of . p presented

. themselves a long time . to our view , before we reached

f stee ascen t the town, which we at length e fected by a p ,

under an almost interminable line of high wall , by which the royal park (the Tapada de M afra) attached

th e to building, is surrounded .

The extent of this noble str ucture is prodigious ;

' a it contains at once a palace , convent, and a church of imposing mag nitude ; and it is proudly termed the M t Escurial of Portugal . afra is about wenty miles .

Lisbbn . north of , and is surrounded by a bleak and

'

r i hin . view . It w as t w t _ solitary coun y of the sea , con

' sider ed a place of great strength in the tim e of the M oors , who built a fortress here , of which, however, no vestiges are discoverable at the present day . On this

V . spot , John , who surrendered himself to a corrupt i nobility , an intrigu ng and artful priesthood , and women of bad character , not contented with the vain display of having elevated the church of Lisbon into a

’ patriarchate, to vie with that of St . Peter s at Rome , employed his troops in the erection of an edifice that

m was to eclipse , by its splendour and agnificence , the

r glories of the Spanish Escurial . The const uction was confided to a foreign architect ; its embellishments were

0

Dr um : h f S a m :

Ad min ; w f/m ‘ [ ai 1 b y ' 4 .m J An /J [ ( 7 W 27 2 1 d Ef Yu z J m uv

AID OF SARAGOZA M .

b F S on r om a k r awn . t e S etch. D y , f

Is the S m it for this panish aid , aroused ,

on the w w n Hangs illo her unstru g guitar,

’ And un sex d the , all , anlace hath espoused ,

and the war 7 Sung the loud song , dared deed of

An d she w m the m , ho once se blance of a scar

’ ’ ’ A all d an w m chill d w h pp , o let s laru it dread ,

’ Now ws the m - b a n et vie colu n scattering y jar ,

’ The h n as an d the et w m falc io fl h , o er y ar dead

’ w M M m a Stalks ith inerva s step where ars ight quake to tre d .

who m w n ou her Ye shall arvel he y hear tale ,

Oh I had ou wn her in her y kno softer hour ,

’ M ar k d her e e m her - black y that ocks coal black veil ,

’ H her in w eard light , livelytones ladys bo er ,

’ her looks the w Seen long that foil painter s po er ,

Her m w m m fairyfor , ith ore than fe ale grace ,

’ S carce would you deem that S ar agoza s tower

’ her m in D G Beheld s ile anger s orgon face ,

’ h in G s t e an d . Thin closed ranks , lead lorys fearful cha e

— - He r lover si n ks she sheds n o ill tim ed tear — Her chief is slain she fills his fatal post ; — Her fellows flee she checks their base career ; — The foe retires she heads the sallying host P OF SAR G OZ A M AID A .

’ ! Who c an appease like her a lover s ghost ’ ! Who c an avenge so well a leader s fall

’ What m aid retrieve when m an s flushed hope is lost

Who on the n G hang so fiercely flyi g aul , ’ ’ ’ !” Foil d b w m a b atter d w ya o an s hand , before all

Childe Ha old . . 54 5 6 . r , canto i st , ,

Such, says Lord Byron , in a note , were the

M S ar a oza exploits of the aid of g , who by her valour elevated herself to the highest rank of heroines . When

was the author at Seville , she walked daily on the

Prado, decorated with medals and orders , by command ” M ’ of the Junta . The editor of urray s complete

’ : edition of Lord Byron s Works , adds The exploits of

Augustina , the famous heroine of both the sieges of

Sar a oza g , are recorded at length in one of the most splendid chapters of Southey’ s History of the Penin

7

. sular War At the time when she first attracted notice , by mounting a battery where her lover had fallen , and

h er working a gun in his room , she was in twenty d second year, excee ingly pretty, and in a soft feminine style of beauty . She has further had the honour to be

’ painted by Wilkie , and alluded to in Wordsworth s C C ’ Dissertation on the onvention (misnamed) of intra , where a noble passage con cludes in these words

Sar a oza ea g has exemplified a melancholy, y , a dismal

' h h n truth , yet consolatory and full of joy, t at w e a people are called suddenly to fight for their liberty , and OF AR AGOZ A M AID S .

th e are sorely pressed upon , their best field of battle is

floors upon which their children have played ; the chambers where the family of each man has slept ; upon or under the roofs bywhich they have been shel ter ed in the gardens of their recreation in the street , or in the market- place before the altars of their tem ples , and among their congregated dwellings , blazing

’ or uprooted .

Southey , in his most interesting account of the

S ar a oza memorable Siege of g , says of this heroine ,

Sar a oza Augustina g , a handsome woman of the lower

a - a cl ss, about twenty two years of age , rrived at this bat ter ywith refreshments at a time when not a man who

w as fir e defended it left alive, so tremendous was the .

m which the French kept up against it . For a mo ent , — the citizens hesitated to r e - man the guns ; Augustina d sprang forward over the ead and dying , snatched a match from the hand of a dead artilleryman, and fired off a six - and - twenty pounder ; then jumping upon the gun , made a solemn vow never to quit it alive during the siege . Such a sight could not but animate with fresh courage all who beheld it . Th e S ar agozan s rushed into the battery , and renewed their fire with greater vigour than ever , and the French were repulsed here , ” and at all other points , with great slaughter . The women were eminently conspicuous in their exertions, regardless of the shot and shells which fell A A M AID OF S RAGOZ .

about them , and braving the flames of the building

wome n of all ranks assisted : they formed themselves

into companies - some to relieve the wounded ; some

to carry water, wine , and provisions , to those who

defended the gates . When circumstances force them

out of the sphere of their ordinary nature , and compel

m the to exercise manly virtues, they display them in the highest degree and when they are once awakened to a sense of patriotism , they carry its principle to its ” most heroic pitch .

M r . The noble defence , says Locker, of this city

Desn ouettes against the French army under Lefebvre , 1 808 in , renders it an object of universal interest ; after an interval of five years , we found it still in ruins , the inhabitants being too poor to restore even their private

’

. Sar a oza Ca dwellings g ( esarea Augusta) , once a Roman station , is the capital of the kingdom of Arragon . It

in u - stands an extensive plain , fruitf l in olive yards and vineyards . We crossed the Gallego , a tributary stream w hich falls in below the town , and soon after entered E it by the bridge of the bro . The wreck of the public buildings , destroyed during the bombardment , associated

th e in our minds with the heroic exploits of inhabitants, compelled us to pause at every step to observe the ravages of the shot and shells ; and this interest in

on C creased reaching the principal street, El ozo every door and Window which remained bore the marks F A M AID O SARAGOZ .

of bullets ; for here the Sar agozan s fought their inva~ ders hand to hand : while the French took possession e of one side, the citiz ns maintained the other, disputing

every inch of ground between them . The walls which

s separated the house were pulled down , and this long

street was thus converted into two immense forts .

- Loop holes were opened for musketry , embrasures were

broken through the front walls , and cannon brought

up from within , which spread destruction from side to

side . Every expedient pr actised in more regular sieges

was tried in succession mines and counter- mines were w carried belo the pavement, and exploded underneath

the opposite houses . The dead lay in heaps between the

combatants , threatening a pestilence more terrible than

— n a the sword . Every church and convent y, every building capable of defence , became a military position .

Priests were seen defending their altars, and pouring out their blood at the foot of the cross . Among the most con s icuous p of these was Padre Santiago Sass, who took the lead in every hazardous enterprise . Females rivalled the

- most undaunted of their fellow citizens . The Portilla

S ar a oza was saved by the gallantry of Augustina g , a

fine young woman , who , when none else survived in the battery, snatched a match from the hands of a dead ” artilleryman, and renewed the fire on the besiegers . The convent of Sta Engracia gives name to one of

Sar a oza . the gates of g , to which it stands contiguous

! possession of the quarter of Sta Engracia , from whence . they immediately summoned the inhabitants to sur render . The proposal and the reply were equally laconic

E . Proposal ! uartel General , Sta ngracia ” La c apitulac ion .

G S ar a oza . Answer ! uartel eneral , g

G uerra al cuchillo .

PALAFOX .

Th e answer is rendered by Lord Byron ,

War even to the knife ;

an energetic expression of determination , which will longer endure in the poetry of Lord Byron than the city and site of the event be known among men . Such was the success of these enthusiastic exer tions , that the enemy were driven into a narrow circuit ; the citizens gradually regained the greater part of their town and Lefebvre, having set fire to the quarter 1 3 of Sta Engracia on the night of the th of August, withdrew his troops from the contest, leaving the defenders to enjoy the triumph of their patriotism .

their elegance, their gaiety , and their powers of fasci C ’ ” nation ; and , if we may believe the hilde s report

above, the race has by no means degenerated in these days of the basq uifi a and mantilla . Cadiz is situated at the extremity of a peninsula which stretches out into the ocean north- westward from the island of Leon . South of this peninsula is the open

the M ocean , stretching away towards editerranean

a str its, while on the north is a deep bay formed by

th e the peninsula itself and Spanish coast , running in the direction of Cape Saint Vincent . The open bay

u w f rnishes a harbour which is not al ays secure , for the north - west winds sometimes bring in a heavy and dan

er ous - g sea ; but the inner port, where the navy yard is

ad situate,is at all times safe and commodious . This mirable station for the pursuits of commerce attracted n the attentio of the earliest navigators . So long ago as C eight centuries before the hristian era, the Phoenicians , having founded Carthage and pushed their dominions

e n b yond the pillars of Hercules eve to Britain , were induced to establish several colonies on the coast of CADI Z .

Spain,where the abundance of silver and gold attracted h t em , even more than the fertility of the soil and the

n amenity of the climate . Of these colo ies Gades was ” the principal . C adiz also contained many Phoenician , Greek, and

Roman inscriptions and other antiquities . Among them

was an odd epitaph , found upon the tomb of some man

the hating cynic , who thought he had fled to end of the

Heliodor us C earth . It ran , , a arthaginian madman ,

ordered me by his will to be put into this sarcophagus ,

at this farthest extremity of the globe , that he might see whether any one more mad than himself would come as far as this place to see him !’ All these memorials 159 7 of the past vanished in , when Elizabeth sent her favourite Essex , with two hundred ships and fifteen thon sand men , including seamen and soldiers, to avenge the insults of the haughty Philip and his Invincible Armada .

Effin ham Lord g commanded the fleet, accompanied by all the gallant spirits of the day : Lord Thomas d C C ff C Howar , Sir orniers li ord , Sir George arew, Sir

Francis Vere, and Sir Walter Raleigh . The destination of the fleet was not known until after it put to sea , and

off C thus it arrived adiz without any intimation . Essex , when he had prevailed upon the cautious admiral to l make the attack , was informed that the queen , carefu of his life, had ordered that he should keep himself in the centre of the fleet . He promised to do so ; but no

R CADIZ .

sooner did he see Sir Walter Raleigh leading boldly

into the inner harbour, under a dreadful fire from the

batteries on either side , than , throwing his hat over board , he gave way to his impatience , and pressed at k once forward into the thic est of the fire . The inner

fil l! w harbour was of ships newly arrived , and laden ith bullion and the precious commodities of America . These were run on shore by the Spanish admiral , the Duke of

. M edina ; and when he saw that the headlong valour of

E u the nglish was abo t to prove successful , he caused

. confla r ation them to be fired Leaving this scene of g ,

Pun talis Essex got possession of , and , no longer ruled i by any will but his own , marched w th his soldiers along C the narrow causeway which leads from Leon to adiz, and , regardless of the batteries that swept his ranks, stormed the city sword in hand . Th e Spaniards fought

an d as usual , from house to house , many of the English

: were slain of the Spaniards many more , not less than

. r e four thousand , but none in cold blood When the sistan ce ceased , the town was given over to plunder , and the generals having taken their stations in the town hall , the principal inhabitants came to kiss their feet .

The priests and nuns were dismissed unconditionally ; but the rest of the population were compelled to give hostages for the payment of a sti pulated ransom . This

was a done, the treasure embarked , the inhabit nts were driven from their homes , and the city was delivered to

A G L I A R I C ,

RD N SA I IA .

r awn b W Westa ll A. R A D y . , . .

M C in w I ynext stage is agliari , Sardinia, here shall be I presented to his m ajesty. have a most superb uniform ”— n in . Lz e o as a court dress , i dispensable travelling :f f

a Gib a lta Au . 1 80 . B on . 2 84 . L ette d ted 9 yr , vol . i . p r r r , g

AT C C that time the ourt existed only at agliari , the capital of the island of Sardinia the sole territory to which the dominion of the King of Sardinia was then reduced . Napoleon had driven him from his

s the posses ions on continent, and converted Savoy and Piedmont into numerous departments ; among these M M were Leman , ont Blanc , arengo , the Stura, the

e S sia , the Doire , and the Po ; and Turin had shrunk into the in signific an ce of being only the chief place of the latter . These departments were incorporated with France ! and the subjects of his M ajesty of Sardinia

m m had been reduced fro nearly five illions, to five hundred thousand

to Our passage Sardinia, says Galt , in his Life ” of Lord Byron , was tardy , owing to calms ; but, in s the jolly - boat was Several times lowered and on one of those occasions, his lordship , with the captain , caught — a turtle I rather think two ; we likewise hooked a

s an shark , part of which was dres ed for breakfast, d tasted , without relish . C As we approached the Gulf of agliari , in Sardinia,

and a strong north wind came from the shore , we had a whole day of disagreeable tackin g ; but next morning — it was Sunday we found ourselves at anchor near the

M . ole , where we landed Byron , with the captain , rode

a out some dist nce into the country, while I walked

: with M r . Hobhouse about the town we left our cards

he M r . for t consul , and Hill, the ambassador, who invited us to dinner . In the evening we landed again , to avail ourselves of the invitation ; and on this occa

a sion , Byron and his companion dressed themselves s — - de - a a aides camp circumst nce which , at the time , appeared less exceptionable in the young peer than in the commoner .

E TNA .

r aw b W ur ser . D n y . P

’ in the E c on ceal d The fire cavern of tna , Still m antles unseen in its secret recess

’ in m r ev eal d At length a volu e terrific ,

N c an n o can . o torrent quench it , bounds repress

Hou s o Idlen ess . . 1 2 m o . . 1 53 . r f , vol i p

O D Y ON M r . . L R B R , in a letter to H Drury , dated

M a 3 1 81 0 from the Salsette frigate , y , , says, I have crossed Portugal , traversed the south of Spain , visited

' S i l M then ce assed Sardinia , ci y, alta, and p into Turkey but it does not appear that he landed in Sicily , or saw

. M Etna except from sea In a letter to oore , dated

n r 1 1 1 81 7 h e Ve ice, Ap il , , says , and I have passed 4 h C by Etna ; and , again, in the t canto of hilde ” a 74 Harold , st nza

’ ’ Ive looked on Ida with a Tr ojan s eye ” m E . Athos, Oly pus, tna

If he saw it from sea, it could not have been on his

M a M r way to alta, as the following st tement from . Galt

r' E TNA .

M hi m will shew and though edwin makes say , But

s A r i en tum Paestum cannot surpass the ruin of g g , which ” saw hi s I by moonlight, Galt, who was companion M ” from Gibraltar to alta, says , in his Life of Byron ,

s Having landed the mail at Girgenti , we tretched

" over to M alta . No mention is made of their landing t an y of the passengers here . If, however, they had

n gone o shore, and ascended to the site of the fortress

A r i e n tum of ancient g g , which overlooks a vast extent

t . of country , this splendid object migh have been seen

’ 1 It was from this eminence , says Russell, in his ” Tour through Sicily, that we first beheld the

E tn a burning , although upwards of ninety miles dis

r tant, whose Alpine summit, white with ete nal snow , distinctly appeared , not only above all the intermediate ” m . ountains, but also above the very clouds

The Editor has been obliged by a note from M r . I Galt, in which he says , do not recollect that after a we l nded the mail at Girgenti , and bore away for M M —I alta , we saw ount Etna rather think not, as

’ th e da y was hazy ; but, if my recollection serves me right, we saw it soon before or after we made the

[E adian . g islands Lord Byron , before his return to

n : I England , had ever been in Sicily believe he alludes chiefly to the view of Etna seen in going from M alta to the dominions of Ali Pacha ; in that part of his voyage he would have a much better ‘view of the

E TNA.

which is upwards of English feet above the sea , whose waves break upon its base , an object of ambition Th to all travellers in Sicily . e success or failure of this adventurous excursion occupies a part of their journals and where they have succeeded ; few scenes are more

n vivid and inspiring tha that which a sunrise , seen from the summit of Etna , produces . hi . . s The Rev T S . Hughes , in Travels in Sicily ” 1 1 6 and Greece , p . , gives the following account Anxious expectation more than doubled the time in which we waited for the appearance of the sun ; but we felt none of those unpleasant sensations in a diffi culty of respiration which are said to arise from the tenuity of the atmosphere , and of which many travellers have complained . At this amazing altitude the mind

seems more affected than the body ; the spirit appears

elevated by the change , and dismissing those cares and r passions which distu b its serenity below, rises from the contemplation of this sublime scenery to the adoration

of its divine Archite ct . At length faint streaks of light shooting athwart

r an the ho izon , which became brighter and brighter,

n oun ced the approach of the great luminary of day ;

S s and when he prang up in splendid maje ty, supported

as it were on a throne of golden clouds , that fine Scrip

tural image of the giant rejoicing to run his course,

flashed across my mind . As he ascended in the sky , ETNA .

h is - rays glittered on the mountain tops, and Sicily he

a came gr dually visible , expanded like a map beneath f our eyes . This e fect is most extraordinary nearly all c the mountains of the island maybe des ried , with cities

m s that surmount their sum it ; more than half the coast, with its bays and indentations , and the promontories of

an d Pach n um the Pelorus y , may be traced , as well as course of rivers from their springs to the sea , sparkling lik e silver bands which encircle the valleys and the M plains . We were unable to distinguish alta, though I do not on this account doubt the relation of others who profess to have done so . The Lipari isles were ver y much approximated to v iew by the refracting power of the atmosphere ; as also was the Calabrian coast . The sides of Etna itself are covered with beau

r tiful conical hills , f om which ancient lavas have issued ; their exhausted craters are now filled with verdant

the groves of spreading chestnut, exhibiting the most sylvan scenes imaginable . On the plain below, these cones would be lofty mountains ; here they appear but excrescences that serve to vary and to beautify the ground . I must not forget to mention one extraordinary e phenom non which we observed , and for which I have searched in vain for a satisfactory solution . At the extremity of the vast shadow which Etna projects across the island , appeared a perfect and distinct image

U E TNA .

a of the mount in itself, elevated above the horizon , and

diminished as if viewed in a concave mirror . Where or what the reflector could be which exhibited this

: image , I cannot conceive we could not be mistaken in

all its appearance , for our party observed it, and we

had been prepared for it beforehand by our Catan ian

. ten friends It remained visible about minutes , and disappeared as the shadow In spite of the

a u cold , which was extreme, we staid t least an ho r upon the summit of Etna, to view from this lofty

- watch tower the splendours of creation . Perhaps at no point in the globe do they appear to so great an

n advantage , for the view is u interrupted by a single obstacle . Unlike other hills of great altitude, which

s are generally surrounded by their a piring subjects, this ki ng of mountains rises alone from the Catan ian plain in solitary state , without a rival to dispute his — pre eminence . Before we left the crater we descended into the interior as far as to the first shelving ridge before mentioned . Hitherto the ground was solid

s under our feet and the de cent gradual , but we could advance no further, as the sides of the second stage were loose and crumbling . There was a mixed sensa tion of terror and delight in ro aming about this fearful

M r . ones o se e the sam e henom enon as we as som e J b rv d p , ll other friends w ith whom I have conversed upon the subject in " En an gl d. imaginable opened themselves to view through the

deep glens and magnificent .vistas of the woody region , — comprehending mountains crested w ith c ities villages — embosomed in rich foliage vineyards pregnant with — the purple grape pr ojectin g c apes and promontories — — with the glorious expanse of the dark blue sea be yond . Viewing this resplendent picture , one might be tempted almost to arraign the partiality of Providence

’ in lavishing all his bounty on a particular district, did not a recurrence of the tremendous lava - course testify

dis en an awful intermixture of evil , and vindicate his p ” sation s. The cause of the appearance of the shadow of Etna above the horizon at sunrise is very obvious . The atmosphere , even to the west, would be illuminated by the rising sun , except where the mountain intercepted his rays , which would present the appearance of the

i its mounta n form , in shadow , on the unilluminated part of the horizon and atmosphere .

M A L T A .

r wn b . M . W. Tur ner R . A . D a yJ ,

’ " B ut not in silence pass Calypso s islesf The sister tenants of the m iddle deep

the m There for wearystill a haven s iles ,

the a Though fair goddess long hath ce sed to weep ,

’ ’ An d o er her clifls a fruitless watch to keep For him who dared prefer a m ortal bride

’ his b o essa d the Here , too , y y dreadful leap Stern M entor urged from high to yonder tide ;

W t - m . hile thus of both beref , the ny ph queen doublysighed

Her her reign is past, gentle glories gone

B ut trust not this too easyyouth, beware

al h h A mort sovereign olds her dangerous t rone ,

’ An d thou mayst find a n ew Calypso there . Sweet Florence ! could another ever share t This wayward , loveless heart, it would be hine

’ B ut check d b m a yeverytie , I ynot dare ff th To cast a worthless o ering at yshrine ,

Nor ask so dear a breast to feel on e pang for m ine .

i s to h een the s an o f (M alta an d Goza) . G oza s aid ave b i l d ” i n a so . h n t f h . Hoa e C T e e o t e ha tat on sa s Sir R . C lyp id ity bi i , y r , ” his C ass ca o ass ne b oets to the n m h C a so l i l T ur, ig d y p y p lyp , has o ca n h om e ace c si o ed m uc discussion and varietyof opin ion . S pl ” at M a ta and som e at Goza . it l , M ALTA .

’ ’ H deem d on Thus arold , as that lady s eye

’ look d an d m et its m w He , bea ithout a thought , Save Adm iration glancing harm less by :

n ot Love kept aloof, albeit far remote ,

Who w his and kne votary often lost caught ,

B ut w him his kne as worshipper no more ,

’ And ne er again the b oyhis bosom sought

n ow h him Since e vainlyurged to adore ,

’ ’ Well deem d the little god his ancient sway was o er .

Childe Ha old 1 1 . . 29 r , canto st ,

IT is remarkable , that though Lord Byron visited M alta on his way to Greece, and spent three weeks in the island , he never alludes to it by name in his poems , and only leaves us to infer, in the above stanza, that M C ’ i ” alta is one of alypso s sles, by naming in the

~ note, Goza, one of the group . It is the more remark

s M able , since it was during this tay at alta that he

the M r s . formed acquaintance with Spencer Smith , the ” ” Fair Florence of his Childe Harold . Struck with her romantic history , and charmed and interested by

her her manners , and even eccentricity, she became one of those beings which were mixed up with the poetry of his life and thoughts ; and his remembrance of her produced many beautiful stanzas expressive of his

: h ad admiration and regard the following , whic were

her M . dressed to , were written at alta

M L A TA.

An d on h who so cold as look t ee ,

’ w an d ! Thou lovely and rer, be less

N m an or be , what should ever be , ! The friend of Beautyin distress

Ah ! who would think that form had past D ’ Through anger s most destructive path,

’ ’ the - win d Had braved death g tempest s blast,

’ ’ An d scaped a tyrant s fier c er wrath !

Lady! when I shall view the walls Where free Byzantium once ar ose ;

’ And Stam boul s Oriental balls The Turkish tyrants now enclose ;

in the m Though mightiest lists of fa e , That glorious citystill shall be

’ On w me t ill hold a dearer claim, As spot of thynativity

And I hid though thee now farewell , W I ’ hen behold that wond rous scene ,

I m a n ot w Since where thou art y d ell ,

’ e w Twill sooth to be here thou hast been .

Septem ber 1

He also apostrophises the same lady in the stanzas

” C ni beginning hill and mirk is the ghtly blast , pub 3 1 1 lished in vol . vii . p . of his Life and Works ; they were wri tten during the thunder- storm which he en

at Z e countered itz , in the mountains of Pindus ; and in a letter to his mother he says This letter is M ALTA .

committed to the charge of a very extraordinary lady ,

M r s . S S whom you have doubtless heard of, of whose escape the M arquess de Salvo published a narrative a few years ago . She has since been ship wrecked ; and her life has been from its commencement so fertile in remarkable incidents, that in a romance

r they would appear improbable . She was bo n at C i w onstant nople, here her father, Baron Herbert , was

Austrian ambassador ; married unhappily , yet has never been impeached in point of character ; excited the ven

ean ce g of Buonaparte , by taking a part in some con spir acy; several times risked her life ; and is not yet l five and twenty . She is here on her way to Eng and to join her husband , being obliged to leave Trieste ,

to where she was paying a visit her mother, by the approach of the French , and embarks soon in a ship of war . Since my arrival here I have had scarcely any other companion . I have found her very pretty, very accomplished , and extremely eccentric . Buonaparte is even now so incensed against her, that her life would be in danger if she were taken prisoner a second time .

M r . Galt, who had become the companion of Lord

M r . M Byron and Hobhouse from Gibraltar to alta, M i thus mentions their residence at alta, in his L fe of ” Lord Byron .

Having landed the mail at Girgenti , we stretched M over to alta, where we arrived about noon next day ; M ALTA .

n all the passengers, except the two frie ds , being eager

n i r e to land , we t on shore w th the captain . They mained behi n d for a reason which an accidental ex

u pression of Byron let out , m ch to my secret amuse I d ment ; for was aware they would be isappointed ,

w as and the anticipation relishing . They expected

— a at least he did salute from the batteries, and sent

v Of ashore notice to Sir Alexander Ball , the go ernor ,

his arrival ; but the guns were sulky , and evinced no

respect of persons ; so that late in the afternoon , about the heel of the evening, the two magnates were obliged

to come on shore, and slip into the city unnoticed and

unknown . M At this time alta was in great prosperity , the e comm rce was flourishing, and the goodly clusters of its profits hung ripe and rich at every door . Th e merchants were truly hospitable, and few more so than

M r C . habot . As I had letters to him , he invited me to dinner,along with several other friends previously en gaged . In the cool of the evening , as we were sitting

M r . an at our wine , Lord Byron and Hobhouse were n oun ced . His lordship was in better spirits than I had

. d ever seen him His appearance shewed , as he entere the room , that they had met with some adventure , and he chuckled with an inward sense of enjoyment , not — altogether without spleen a kind of malicious satis faction, as his companion recounted , with all becoming pointed to convoy a fleet of small merchantmen to

Pr evesa . I had, about a fortnight before , passed over M with a packet on her return from essina to Girgenti , and did not fall in with them again till the following spring, when we met at Athens . In the mean time ,

M r s . besides his Platonic dalliance with Spencer Smith ,

Byron had involved himself in a quarrel with an officer ; but it was satisfactorily settled . His residence at M alta did not greatly interest him . The story of its old chi v al rous masters made no impression on his imagination — none that appears in his works ; but it is not the less probable that the remembrance of the place itself occupied a deep niche in his bosom ; for I have r e

a marked , that he had voluntary power of forgetful

a ness, which , on more than one occ sion , struck me as i singular ; and I am led , in consequence , to th nk , that

n somethi g unpleasant, connected with this quarrel , may have been the cause of his suppression of all direct allusion to the island . It was impossible that his ima gin ation could avoid the impulses of the spirit which haunt the walls and ramparts of M alta ; and the silence of his muse on a topic so rich in romance, and so well calculated to awaken associations concerning the M ALTA .

th knights, in unison with e ruminations of Childe

Harold , persuades me that there must have been some specific cause for the omission . If it were nothing in

I n n n the duel , should be i clined to say, otwithsta ding the seeming improbability of the notion , that it was owing to some curious modification of vindictive spite . It might not be that M alta should receive no celebrity from his pen ; but assuredly he had met with something there which made him resolute to forget the place .

The question as to what it was, he never answered the result would have thrown light into the labyrinths ” of his character .

’ 1 8 The view which here engraved , after Turner s drawing, is of La Valetta, the chief city of the island , remarkable for the prodigious strength of its for tifica tions , which present from the sea an appearance of unconquerable power . This island is identified with a series of historical and classical reminiscences, more certain and con n ected than those perhaps of any other known spot C upon earth . Remains of the elts and Phoenicians

c give evidence of their possession of M alta . Thu ydides and Diodor us both mention it as a Phoenician colony . The Carthaginians left many monuments ; and can delabr a found here with Punic inscriptions are pre served in the museum of the palace of the grand master .

the C From arthaginians it fell , with Sicily, under the the latter country, part of the Spanish dominions . On the expulsion of the Knights of St . John from Rhodes , this island w as given to them by the Emperor Charles f C the Fi th to defend it, as one of the outworks of hrist endom , against the Turks , which they did nobly and

1 798 was it was retained by them till , when the island

. 1 800 c taken by Buonaparte In , after a blo kade , it was surrendered to the English ; and it was confirmed to th e British Government by the treaty of Pari s i n

Of he 1 814 . It has ever since been in possession t n English , to whose mercantile interests , as a statio

M a im in the editerranean , its occupation is of gre t portance .

: hi s M alta is the M elita of St . Paul name is still

’ given to the spot where he was shipwrecked . Here and to he is said to have stayed three months , have propagated the Gospel .

PATRASS .

s n from us, were lowland run ing out into the sea, — covered with currant trees of the most lively green ;

before - us were hills crowned to their summits wi th

O wood , and on every other side , except at the pening

by which we had come into this great bay , were rugged

mountains of every shape . We were shewn the situa

Patr a ss ffi tion of , but did not advance su cientlybefore

dark to see the town itself that evening . The following

night, the whole of the next day , and the night after,

I employed myself in c r uising about the mouth of the 26th bay in a boat ; but on the , at seven in the morn

off ing, was again on board of the brig at anchor

r Pat ass . Nothing could be more inviting than the appearance of this place . I had approached it j ust as the dawn was breaking over the mountains to the back of the town , which is itself on the foot of a hill clothed

- with gardens, groves of orange and lemon trees, and — currant grounds that, when seen at a distance , remind me of the bright green of an English meadow . The

m osck s minarets of the Turkish , always a beautiful object, glittering in the first rays of the sun, and the cultivated appearance of the whole neighbourhood of the town , formed an agreeable contrast with the barren rocks on the other side of the gulf. Though we were to proceed with a part of our

Pr evesa convoy immediately to , we were anxious , as

M r . you may suppose , to put foot in the o ea Accord PATR ASS .

la gly,my friend and myself took a ‘walk i n some cur

a - r nt grounds to the north of the town , until we were

obliged to return by a signal from the brig , which got

’ under weigh at twelve o clock . The ship was not long

in getting out of the bay, and before sunset we had a

M essalon e distant view of a town called g , with a singu lar- looking double shore at the foot of mountains rising

one above another as far as the eye could reach , which is, indeed , the appearance of all the country to be seen ” to the north of the Gulf of Lepanto .

“ Patr ass e Dodwell describes as , like all oth r Turk ish cities, composed of dirty and narrow streets . The houses are built of earth baked in the sun : some of the

- best are white washed , and those belonging to the Turks are ornamented wi th red paint . The eaves overhang

O the streets , and project so much that pposite houses come almost in contact, leaving but little space for air and light , and keeping the street in perfect shade , which in hot weather is agreeable, but far from healthy . a In some places, rbours of large vines grow about the town , and with their thick branches of pendant grapes , have a cool and pleasing appearance . The pavements are infamously bad , and calculated only for horses ; no

r car iages of any kind being used in Greece, although

’ they are known in Thessaly and Epirus . Patr ass is supposed to contain about inhabitants ; they are principally Greeks, among whom are many merchants A A Patr ass is a place of great antiquity ; numerous temples and public edifices whi ch formerly existed e ther , are mentioned by Pausanias, but of these not a

a Ca vestige can now be tr ced . Augustus esar made

Patr eusium it a Roman colony, under the title of , and a few remains of Roman construction are found , but none of importan ce or interest . Under the Greek emperors Patr ass was a dukedom . It is now a Turkish vaivodeship , and the see of a Greek archbishop . Its t M situation, as one of the most western por s of the orea,

' is so favourable to the commerce of Greece, that it has c fi' om often re overed pillage and destruction . Roman merchants settled and traded there in the time

C n — of icero, as the E glish and French do now . Saint

Patr ass. Andrew, it is said , was crucified at

rocky and mountainous .

v It is e ident, from several passages in the Odyssey , that there was a city named Ithaca, probably the capital c of the island , and the residence of Ulysses , whi h, it would seem , was placed on a rugged height, from the lines in the seventeenth book of the Odyssey , describing the ascent of Ulysses with Eumaeus from the cottage of the latter to that city

B ut w wa when slo travelling the craggy y,

n ow the w an d had They approached to n , attained

The m a n w its m arble fount i deep, hich with strea s

the u Pellucid all citizens s pplied ,

h m That fountain It ac us had fra ed of old .

’ Cow e s T n p r ra s . The first thing which attracted our curiosity at ” Ithaca , says Dodwell , was the remains of a castle

u u and city of the highest antiq ity , situated pon the

t rocky ridge of a steep and lof y hill , which rises at the

n wester extremity of the bay of Aitos . In order to

B ath . visit it, we took a boat at y We landed at the

oot of the hill at Aitos , and walked through some

plantations of vines and currants and after zig- zagging

over steep and rugged paths for half an hour , arrived at ITHACA

1 the summ t , and enjoyed one of those extraordinary

s views which this country of islands , mountain , pro ” m on tor ies ff , and ports, a ords in a superlative degree .

This place was, according to all probability, the ancient capital of the island . Indeed , the country people

sometimes call it the Castle of Saint Penelope . It is probable that the castle was still there in the time of C icero , who says it was placed , like a nest , upon the roughest rocks . NO other place in Ithaca would so well suit this simile ; and I have little doubt that he alludes to this spot . The ruins of this city are generally identified with those crowning the summit of the hill of Ai to . Part of the walls which surrounded the Acropolis are said to

" remain ; and two long walls on the north and south sides are carried down the hill towards the bay of

Aitos . In this intermediate space was the city . These walls are in the second style Of early military ar chitec

- r ture , composed of well jointed ir egular polygons , like

M a the walls of the Cyclopean cities of Argos and ycen e .

The whole was built on terraces , owing to the declivity ” of the hill .

The guides to travellers in Ithaca appear to be a n

’

M r . fa i t at their calling . Dodwell s pointed out a hole in the horizontal surface of the rock , about six

u inches square, in which he said Ulysses sed to fix his

flag- staff ! the ruins of this place , and that human skeletons of a gigantic size had been dug up in the vineyards at

the foot of the hill . Some years after my return from

Greece, several ancient sepulchres belonging to this

city were opened , and remains of great beauty were

discovered . I afterwards saw several of them at Rome ,

the chief of which was a silver cup , about four inches in

height, embossed with a wreath of grapes and vine

leaves gilt ; another part of the ornament is only an

outline , engraved with a sharp instrument , and filled

up with gilding . There were also some beautiful fibulae

- and ear rings of ornamented gold , and a necklace of

surprising workmanship . It is evident from Homer that feminine ornaments were finely worked as early ” as his time . Homer dwells with such evident pleasure on Ithaca

and its hero , that many have believed that not one of the seven cities which contested for the honour of his birth had so great a claim to it as Ithaca . In fact , Ithaca appears among the seven in an epigram of i An t pator the Sidonian .

There cannot be a more accurate descr iption of the approach to Ithaca , and of its great port, than that given by Homer

SAN TA MAURA .

W a e. r a wn b . Sta n eld A. R. A. r om a r a wi n b . D y C fi , f D g y P g

’ ’ T was on a Grecian autum n s gentle eve

’ ’ Childe Harold hail d Le uc adia s cape afar

'

lon d n or . A spot he g to see , cared to leave

Chi ld e Ha old . . 40 . r , canto ii st

ON the 28th we sailed through the channel be M tween Ithaca and the island of Santa aura , and again

Cefalon ia saw stretching farther to the north . We M doubled the promontory of Santa aura, and saw the precipice which the fate of Sappho , the poetry of Ovid , and the rocks so formidable to the ancient mariners , have made for ever memorable Tr a vels .

This island , forming at present one of the seven islands of the Ionian sea, known commonly by the name of the Septinsular republic , was in the time of

Homer, and long after , attached to the continent, and formed the Leucadian peninsula . Some have imagined that it was separated from the mainland by an eruption of the sea ; but the general opinion is , C that it was cut through by the orinthians . Livy ,

c c S ANTA M AURA .

whose account of Leucadia is remarkably accurate , M declares that it is artificial . The canal of Santa aura , which separates it from the continent , is fordable in still weather ; and the remains of a bridge built bythe

Turks when they were in possession of the island , are seen , by which it was connected with the mainland . From the opposite shore the fort of Santa M aura may be destroyed by bombardment . It is supposed to have been colonised by the Corinthians and Cor yr aean s (Cor M fuotes) . The present town of Santa aura is on the coast , below the ruins of the ancient city of Leucas , which derives its name from a companion of Ulysses ;

’ o it is situated on an elevated hill, ab ut an hour s walk

m a n ifi from the modern town , and commands a most g — cent view a scene of great beauty and classical interest . ” Towards the west, says Dodwell , the islands

Pax os C as of Antipaxos, , and orfu , are indistinctly seen

Cheim e forming one cluster ; a promontory , probably

ir E os. M rian , is visible on the coast of p ore to the north and far inland , rises a grand range of snow F topped mountains , (part of the chain of indos and

M l s i o o s a . Tomaros) , terminating the horizon of Below ’ M the spectator s eye is the town and fort of Santa aura , and the rich Leucadian plain , covered with extensive

- groves of olive trees . Nothing remains of the ancient city except a part of its walls , which were evidently f ” built at three di ferent epochs .

S A NTA M AURA .

w name , as well as the hole island , though it is generally known to foreigners by that of Agia M aura or Santa M b aura , which name is given y the Greeks only to the capital of the island .

C O R F U.

r a wn b . Sta n eld a Sketch b W a e. D yC fi , y . P g

No mention is made of Lord Byr on having visited C orfu , nor of his having seen it, except, probably , lik e

en vo a e M Etna, y g , on his way from Santa aura to

Pr evesa Am br acian , at the entrance to the Gulf, in his

first journey to Greece .

Once , indeed , he was nearly taken thither against

. e Pr e v esa his will In a letter to his mother, dat d , N 1 2 1 809 ov . , , he says , Two days ago I was nearly

n lost in a Turkish ship of war, owing to the ignora ce w of the captain and cre , though the storm was not

- violent . Fletcher (his valet) yelled after his wife , the M Greeks called on all the saints , the ussulmans on

Alla ; the captain burst into tears , and ran below deck , telling us to call on God ; the sails were split ,

- the the main yard shivered , the wind blowing fresh ,

all night setting in , and our chance was to make

C u orf (which is in possession of the French) , or , as

’ Fletcher pathetically termed it , a watery grave . I did what I could to console Fletcher ; but finding him

incorrigible , wrapped myself up in my Albanian capote

D D on the mainland , where we landed , and proceeded , by

Pr e esa . the help of the natives , to v again Upon one other occasion he had more of the will

than the opportunity to visit Corfu . He writes in his 25 1 82 1 journal kept at Ravenna Jan . , . Received

t O . a let er from Lord S . , State Secretary to the Seven — Islands ; a fine fellow clever, dished in England five years ago, and come abroad to retrench and to renew .

' fr om An con a his C He wrote , on way back to orfu , on D some matters of our own . He is son of the late uke of L . by a second marriage . He wants me to go to C — ” orfu why not perhaps I may next spring .

D r C . ramer , in his Ancient Greece , thus speaks of Corcyra (Corfu) From the Odyssey we learn that this island was

ae — a at then inhabited by Ph acians people who, even that early period , had acquired considerable skill in a ff e nautical airs , and poss ssed extensive commercial

th e o relations, since they traded with Ph enicians , and also with Euboea and other countries . It was after wards colonised by the Cori nthians .

us Strabo informs , that Archias, the founder of C C Syracuse, touched at orcyra , on his way from orinth

CORFU . the following rapid sketch of classical and historical

’ events associated with Corfu . Corcyra was celebrated for having been the island on which Ulysses is r e pr e sented in the Odyssey as having been entertained by

a C Alcinous, k ing of Ph eacia as the place where ato and Cicero met after the battle of Pharsalia ; and where

C vi C ato , after ha ng entreated icero to take the com mand of the las t legions which remained faithful to the republic, separated from him to lose his life in Utica , while Cicero went to lose his head to the triumvirate ; as being the plac e where Aristotle was once exiled ; as having been visited by the youthful Al exander ; as the place where the tragical nuptials of Antony and

Cleopatra were celebrated ; and as the place where

Agrippina touched , bringing from Egypt, in the midst ” of winter , the body of the murdered Germanicus .

By the assistance of our oars , and of a slight

a breeze which sprung up towards evening, we p pr oached the low white cliffs on the north - western side

C off C of orfu , and arrived ape Bianca, its northern extremity , just as the last rays of the sun were reflected

e M from the lofty ridg of the Acroceraunian ountains, i wh ch stretched out majestically on our left . During the night we weathered this point, and got into the channel between the island and the mainland but the winds continuing light and variable , we did not reach

C u the town of orf till late in the day , and after about ORF C U .

forty hours from the time we embarked . The latter o part of our voyage , h wever , was delightful . We h sailed slowly along the c annel , which in some places

is not wider than a broad river, with the rocky moun

tains of Albania on one side of us, and the woody

C u hills of orf on the other, till at last we became

- completely land locked , and the town , with its lofty

castles , burst upon us as if rising from the shore of an

immense lake . Corfu is built on a neck of land which runs out

into the sea, and forms the southern boundary of a

wide and deep bay . At its extremity are two steep C rocks occupied by a fortress , called the astello Vecchio, w immediately below hich, on the land side , are the

- government house, the arsenal , and other public build

ings , protected by strong works . Beyond these is the

esplanade , a large space extending across the isthmus,

at one end open to the sea , and at the other occupied by a handsome new building, intended to comprise a

residence for the lord high commissioner , together with the chambers of the deputies, the tribunals , and other public ofli cesfi Within the esplanade the town is situ n ated , and is agai protected towards the interior by very extensive works , and another fortified rock called

N . Castello uovo The French , whose intention seems to have been to make Corfu a great and impregnable o dep t, from which at some future period they might

E E O F C R U .

Gr penetrate into eece , had begun some important addi tions to the old Venetian fortifications , which were considered to be already among the strongest in Europe .

The little island of Vido , which is exactly in front of

u - the town, was stripped of the peacef l olive trees which had covered it for ages, and their place was supplied by entrenchments and batteries ; an d on the land side they had begun to dig a fossé and to construct lines which would have included all the commandin g points in the vicinity of the town , and might , if necessary , have cut off all communication with the rest of the island . These gigantic schemes, however, were entirely laid aside by the English, the old fortifications probably requiring for their defence a garrison five times as numerou s as the force which they maintain in all the

Seven Islands . The interior of the town does not at all corre spon d with its advantageous situation . The streets are

- narrow and ill paved . The public buildings , with the exception of the new palace , mean ; and the private houses very small , and of such slight construction that the heat in summer is almost insupportable ; while the inhabitants, like those of other fortified towns, have a long and tedious progress to make through arches , covered ways , and fossés , before they can get out into a purer air . In the northern and western districts the moun

C ORFU .

the protection , we must admit propriety of having placed every department, and more particularly every

r one connected with the revenue , under a st ict and e vigi lant superintendence . It s emed highlynecessary

ri also to abridge the feudal p vileges of the nobility , and that license of crime which , even at a late period of the Venetian government , existed to such a height ,

' that a Cor fiot noble was al ways surrounded by a set of

his . bravos , ready at nod to commit any atrocity The resumption , too, of the church property excited , of course , great clamour amongthose who were interested in retaining it ; but , on the other hand , the religious customs of the people were treated with a degree of respect which , however commendable , would scarcely be tolerated nearer home , and the pious Greek might be edified by the sight of a British garrison drawn out * . S ir idi n under arms to salute the bones of St p o . That the prosperity of the Islands has in creased

since they have been under British protection , cannot ,

I think , for a moment be doubted ; and the improve ments that had taken place even duri ng the three years which intervened between my first and second visit , were such as must force themselves upon the attention

. 1 81 8 of the most cursory observer In , the most ordi nary articles of foreign manufacture were scarcely to be

i St . S ir dion is the atr on sa n of Co fu and his ones ar e p p i t r , b ” d a a a in n n peri o ic llyc rried bout gra d processio . CORFU .

- procured ; and from the total want of inns , a stranger who did not happen to have an introduction to some member of the government , or some officer of the garri son , might run a very fair chance of passing the night ’ 1 822 of his arrival (2 la belle étoile . In there were several well - supplied shops ; a large hotel had been opened in a fine situation on the esplanade ; a new palace had arisen , built by native workmen , and orna m en ted with sculptures and has - reliefs by a native

* artist . A university had been founded ; and , what was perhaps scarcely less important, the government was begi nning to turn its attention to the state of the roads , and the establishment of communications with the interior . That some abuses prevailed can scarcely be doubted , but they were not likely to come under the notice of a passing stranger ; and the great attention

. m and hospitality which , in co mon , I believe , with every

the other respectable traveller, I received from English authorities , might have propitiated a much more ” strenuous reformer than I profess to be .

au o Cor c r ota a u of Can o a . P l y , p pil v

YANINA .

level of the plain . Opposed to the highest summit of

this mountain, and to a small island which lies at its

base, a peninsula stretches forward into the lake from t its wes ern shore, terminated by a perpendicular face

of rock .

This peninsula , which forms the fortress of

Ioannina , widens as it advances into the lake , and is terminated by two distinct promontories of rock

on one of these stands a large Turkish mosque , its lofty minaret and extensive piazzas shaded by the

cypresses surrounding it ; on the other promontory , the

n old seraglio of the Pachas of Ioan ina , a large build

in defin abl e ing, with all that irregular and magni

ficen ce which belongs to Turkish architecture, the minaret and cypresses of a second mosque rising above its projecting roofs and painted walls . The area of the fortress , which forms a small town in itself, is insulated from the rest of the city by a lofty stone wall , and a broad moat which adm its the waters of the lake . The island opposite the city is picturesque in its outline ,

’ and embellished by a small palace of the Vizier s , which is seen upon its shore . A village on its northern side is almost hidden by the luxuriant foliage of the chestnut and plane - trees growing amon gst its habita tions . From the highest point of the isle , there is a most imposing view of the city and the buildings on the ff ” cli s of the fortress . Y ANINA .

The banks of the lake present many other objects

the the to engage eye great seraglio , which from some points of view seems to rise from its shore ; a painted kiosck projecting over the waters below the rocks of l the old serag io a convent of dervishes , shaded by trees further to the north ; but , above all , the mountain

M etzouk el ridge of , which , with the height, probably 2500 3 000 between and feet above the lake , forms,

vi n almost as far as the ew extends, a continuous and u

’ ri broken boundary to the valley , sing from the water s edge opposite to Ioannina with an abruptness and

th e ff majesty of outline , e ect of which is highly magni

ficen t . Its precipitous front is intersected by the ravines of mountain torrents , which , expanding as they approach the lake , are covered with wood , and form

n . the shelter to ma y small villages It is said , that formerly there were more extensive forests on this mountain ascent , but that they were destroyed , as being the resort of bands of robbers , who infested the neigh bour h ood C of the city . onsidering the general absence of wood from the landscape , the scenery of Ioannina is perhaps less perfect than if these forests had been

m a preserved ; still , it is such as y be considered to have few parallels in variety and magnificence . 1 820 C When , in , the court of onstantinople resolved to suppress the tyrannous government of Ali Pacha ,

and sent an army to subdue this powerful chieftain , his

G G retired to his castle and fortress on the lake , having previously pillaged and burnt Ioannina, to prevent its becoming a place of shelter to his enemies ; but his

o . defeat and death s on followed As these events , how

a to ever, rather relate to the Pacha th n the capital of his government , the circumstances connected with them will be found accompanying the portrait of this extra ordinary man given in these Illustrations .

A I H L PAC A .

e On 1 2 . the th, I was introduced to Ali Pacha The Vizi r received me in a large room paved with marble : a foun

in m e tain was playing the centre . He received standing

— a w m M —and . onderful compliment fro a ussulman

made m e sit down on his right hand . His first question

wh a e I m He was , y, at so early an g , left ycountry.

the E had him I then said , nglish minister told was of a

r m an d m g eat fa ily, desired his respects to y mother

w I n ow in m ou . hich , the na e of Ali Pacha , present to y

he m an I He said was certain I was a of birth, because

m He had s all ears , curling hair, and little white hands .

m e him t I in told to consider as a father whils was Turkey ,

an d on as his own . he said he looked me son Indeed ,

m e an d treated me like a child , sending almonds sugared

a nd t m d a . I sherbet, fruit, swee meats , twenty ti es a y ” f an d . then , after co fee pipes , retired

’ L tte to his M B yron s e r other .

’ H L L Ali DR . O AND s description of the person of on — his first interview con fir m ed as his Opinions were of Ali ’ s character by long and frequent intercourse— fur i nishes, perhaps, the best report of th s extraordinary man : All our attention was at this moment occupied by the person of Ali Pacha himself, whose figure for med the most interesting part of the picture that

m was before us . He was sitting in the Turkish anner , with his legs crossed under him , on a couch imme diatel ybeyond the fire , somewhat more elevated than the rest , and richer in its decorations . On his head he ALI PACHA .

m e wore a high round cap , the colour of the deepest az r een blue , and bordered with gold lace . His exterior robe was of yellow cloth , likewise richly embroidered

r s two inner ga ments , striped of various colour , and

flowing down loosely from the neck to the feet, con

. an o fined only about the waist by embr idered belt, in which were fixed a pistol and dagger of be autiful and delicate work manship . The hilts of these arms were covered with diamonds and pearls, and emeralds of great size and beauty were set in the heads of each . On his fingers the Vizier wore many large diamond

- rings , and the mouth piece of his long and flexible pipe was equally decorated with various kinds of jewellery .

coun te Yet more than his dress, however, the nance of Ali Pacha at this time engaged our earnest f observation . It is di ficult to describe features , either f in their detail or general e fect , so as to convey any

distinct impression to the mind of the reader . Were I

to attempt a description of those of Ali , I should speak

of his face as large and full , the forehead remarkably

u broad and open , and traced by many deep f rrows his

eye penetrating , yet not expressive of ferocity ; the nose handsome and well formed the mouth and lower part

of the face concealed , except when speaking , by his mustachios and the long beard which flows over his

breast . His complexion is somewhat lighter than that

E H ALI PACHA.

usual among the Turks , and his personal appearance does not indicate m ore than his actual age , of sixty or

- sixty one years, except , perhaps , that his beard is whiter than is customary at this time of life . The neck is short and thick , the figure corpulent and unwieldy ; his stature I had afterwards the means of ascertaining to be about five feet nine inches . The general cha r ac ter and expression of his countenance are un q ues

ion abl t yfine , and the forehead especially is a striking and majestic feature . M uch of the talent of the m an

ri may be inferred from his exte or the moral qualities , however, may not equally be determined in this way ; and to the casual observation of the stranger, I can

own conceive from my experience, that nothing may

. O or appear but what is open , placid , and alluring pp tun ities were afterwards afforded me of looking beneath — this exterior of expression ; it is the fire of a stove

l s burning fierce y under a mooth and polished surface . The manner of the Vizier in this interview was courteous and polite , without any want of the dignity

s t . in c which befit his si uation There is not , either his oun ten an ce or speech, that formal and unyielding apathy which is the characteristic of the Turks as a people ; but more vivacity, humour, and change of expression .

His laugh is very peculiar , and its deep tone , approach

un ac u ing to a growl , might almost startle an ear c s

tom ed . to it Altogether, I was very well satisfied with

ALI PACHA .

the encroachments of the hostile clans opposed to her ;

but having once , with her daughter , fallen into the

G a r dik iotes in hands of the , they were treated with

credible indignity and brutality , an outrage never

’ r etr ibu forgiven by them or Ali , and for which a fatal tion fell upon the survivors and descendants of those ft ' savages forty years a erwards , when Ali , having the

’ ’ power , horribly revenged his mother s and his sister s dishonour . After a long series of bold adventures,

amidst fluctuations of fortune , sometimes heading gangs of robbers , at others commanding adherents whose num bers deserve to be mentioned as armies— sometimes defeated , wandering alone , a fugitive , again becoming d a distinguished chief, whose aring followers obtained

—he towns and territories , at length succeeded in esta blishin g himself at Tepeleni , and extended his conquests to many districts, which he pillaged , and reduced to his subjection . He thus acquired immense riches , which enabled him , not only to purchase his pardon from th e Porte for the dreadful outrages committed by his orders upon the peaceable inhabitants of sur

Con rounding districts , but , through his emissaries at stan tin o le r p , even to get his conquests confi med to him .

Having obtained a high reputation for bravery, a judi

cions application of money procured for him a command , R during the hostilities with ussia, where he served at the head of his Albanian corps . His conduct through ALI PACHA .

was but the cam paign brilliant ; his military talents , r an d the valour of his soldiers, obtained fo him fame an d fortune and at the end of the war he pro

' ' h n of Tr iccal a in cured t e gover ment , Thessaly , with the rank of pacha with two tails . The appointment

' was favourable to the in cr ease of his riches and his

power . And soon after, by a daring fraud , he gained h possession also of the pashalik of Yanina, whic he secured by his gold .

' is im ossible s It , p within the limits of thi sketch to c trace his politi al intrigues with Russia, Austria, France , an d England . A short and clear account is admirably u h c drawn pfrom aut entic sources in the History of Gree e , ” t M . in the odern Traveller, vol . i The circums ances e which led to his death must, however, be adv rted to . The accidental destruction by fire of his palace at

’ Tepeleni is said tohave led to the discover y of great treasure concealed within its walls . A report of this reached the ears of Sultan M ahmoud ; it excited his

’ h i m e cupidity , and induced to list n to Ali s enemies ,

n o who sought his destruction . Even w Ali might have bought his safety by a sacrifice of part of his immense

too and wealth , but he was grown avaricious thinking

' a e sh or ter w a se it less expnsive, if not a y to curity , ’ a—' to sacrifice his implacable enemy , Ismael Pach who n had formerly bee in the pay of Ali , but whom ,

prompted by avarice, Ali had ceased to bribe to sup

I r ALI PACHA . port his interests ‘ at Constantinople he sent two of d his Albanians to assassinate him . They approache

Ismael by a stratagem , shot at and wounded him ; but having failed to kill him , they fled , and being pur sued , one of them was taken , who, after confessing that they were employed by Ali , was hung at the gate of the seraglio . The Porte expressed the utmost horror at this a ttem pted assassination of a man who was un der the protection, and in the very residence of the Sultan ;

fir m an a was issued deposing Ali from his province , and conferrin g the government upon his enemy . Ali refused to obey the fir m an ; an army was sent against

Hour chid him , commanded by Pacha, and Ali was at length driven to take refuge in a part of the citadel of

m en Yanina, with about fifty , who remained attached to his fortunes . The place he had chosen for his last retreat was a building of three stories ; the uppermost was occupied by Ali and his immediate suite ; his trea

s sures , which were upposed to be immense, were placed in the next ; and the lowest floor was filled with gun powder, ready to be exploded in an instant .

’ Hour chid , aware of Ali s arrangements , sent to propose his surrender at discretion , or threatened to come hi mself and fire his magazine . Ali appeared to be shook by this determined communication . A love of life, apparently at variance with the recklessness which he had shewn of it for seventy years , came

ALI PACHA J could contribute to his confidence and personal com

o . n M to e f rts Whe ohamed rose depart , Ali ros also from the divan on which theywere sitting ; an d as the

M a was he Pacha of the ore retiring, made a low and h ceremonial reverence . T e Pacha of Yanina returned it with the same profound inclination of body; but

. he o s a n M before c uld recover him elf gai , ohamed drew

' his yataghan from his girdle an d plunged it into the of back his host with such force , that it passed through his heart and out at his left breast . Ali fell dead at

a nd his feet, his assassin immediately left the chamber

th e o o with bl ody yataghan in his hand , and ann unced e to those abroad , that Ali had ceased to xist . Some soldiers of M ohamed entered th e apartmen t, severed

held the head from the body , and , bringing it outside , the it up as head of a traitor , to their own comrades and the soldiers of Ali .

' h ead of C The Ali was sent to onstantinople , and

“ exhibited in the court of the seraglio , like that of a

' in ade m u h n oise u . c malefactor As Ali had in E rope , an English merchant thought it would be a good spe

culation to buy it for an exhibition in London , and

' he actually offered a large sum of money for it ; but

n “ one who had received kind ess from Ali , , not only bade a higher price , and so preserved the head of his

friend from this additional indignity, but upon the death of Ali’ s sons,who became the immediate victims ALI PACHA .

of Turkish policy, bought these also , and gave them burial and tombs just opposite the Selyvr ia Gate of

Constantinople .

’ Of Al i s treasures the Porte was disappointed ; they were found to be very far short of what Ali was at one time known to possess ; but he was supposed to have aided the cause of Greek in dependence with a liberal hand . It is difficult to say what virtue was “ linked ” with a thousand crimes in the character of Ali . His hospitality was too much in common with that of other barbarians, to be set against a million of his tyrannies

u and outrages ; and where it was displayed , it was sually connected with some political object . Travellers who Al i visited were received with great courtesy , especially if they were physicians , and most especially when they came in uniform as military men . This character is often assumed in foreign courts as a passport to a good reception ; and Lord Byron and his friend travelled as

- - aides de camp . Byron , in his letter to his mother

12 . (vol . i . mo, p says , I was introduced to f Ali Pacha dressed in a full suit of sta f uniform , with ”

&c . a very magnificent sabre , And Galt quizzes the

a appearance of the friends , on their travels , in . his o f o M r . count their dining with Hill , the ambassador to the C g court of Sardinia, at a liari , when he says , In

n the eve ing , we landed again , to avail ourselves of the

X X A LI PACHA .

invitation ; and on this occasion Byron and his com

panion dressed themselves as aides- de- camp - a circum

stance which , at the time , appeared less exceptionable ” — ’ in the young peer than in the commoner . G a lt s

L e o L or d B on . 60 . if f yr , p

This use of military costume , to support or assume

a the char cter of a soldier, is not uncommon among ver e ea ble y p a c travellers on the continent . It once happened , that a party, chiefly military men , aware of the better reception which a red coat would obtain at the court of Ali Pacha, took their uniforms . One of

o them , a young man , who could not b ast of any regi m en tals except what he had worn in one of the London companies of volunteers, took these , for want of better . At Yanina they were received by Ali Pacha with much t cour esy ; and upon addressing the young traveller, Al i !” said to him , Where have you served This would have been a poser to most m en in the same situation ; but he won more honour by his wit than he had done by his sword ; for his ready answer was,

‘ ” n im l n m £97 1 f or Tmfil edov K O/Lov upo W b edo Co m on . Ali had too much tact to betray his ignorance of the battle or the place ; and our city hero passed with the tyrant for a distinguished warrior .

DELPHI .

OF the magnificence of Delphi in the days of its f glory and its power, it is di ficult to present a picture

even to the imagination . The origi n of the Delphic

oracle is almost lost in the obscurity of past ages ; and the prophetic cavern has in vai n been sought by every

traveller to the stream of Castaly. It could not have

e the b en large , as tripod stood over it and concealed it

m fro view . That spot was in the a dytum of the tem

of ve stones ple , which was constructed fi , the work of ” Cyclopean architects . This description of the Delphic sanctuary , which was , no doubt , the most ancient part of the temple , would favour the supposition that it was originally of the class of rude gigantic lithic monu i ments, such as the cromlechs and circular sanctuar es of Celtic origin . When it became a temple of Apollo is beyond the traces of history ; but it was celebrated , and its wealth had become proverbial, even in the time ” of Homer, in whose Hymn to Apollo its fabulous institution goes to prove the unknown period of its foundation . An ancient temple of Apollo , which had been destroyed by fire, was rebuilt by order of the

5 1 3 . C . Amphictyonic deputies , as early as B , at an

67 000l . expense of three hundred talents , or nearly , ; and the sculptor’ s art was lavished on its embellish

. s ment Its enclosure contained trea uries , wherein the consecrated offerings of cities and of monarchs, the

of s finest works art , and the spoil of war , were pre DELPHI .

served . Of the prodigious amount of these treasures, we may form some idea from the alleged fact, that the Phocians plundered the temple of gold and silver to the enormous amount of two milli ons sterling . The X Persians under erxes , and afterwards the Gauls , were deterred by causes of alarm represented to have been supernatural . Sylla, wanting the aid of the holy trea

v sury of Delphi , was not, howe er , to be terrified by the juggling trick s of its priests from his demands upon its resources . So great were the early deposits ,

n i s or so consta t the g ft and oblations to the temple , that it bore plundering eleven times before the reign N of ero, who is said to have taken five hundred bronze statues from the temple . Even in the time of Strabo , when the establishment was fast declining in wealth ff and credit, the o erings which still remained were C numerous . onstantine was its fatal, if not its final enemy , when he removed the sacred tripod from Delphi to adorn the hippodrome of his new city on the shores of the Bosphorus . Gibbon says, The space between th e m etea two , or goals , were filled with obelisks ; and we may still remark a very singular fragment of e u ti uit q y, the bodies of three serpents twisted into one pillar of brass . Their triple heads had once supported X the golden tripod , which , after the defeat of erxes, was consecrated i n the temple of Delphi by the vic

r i to ous . Greeks From this tripod , in its day of power ,

I. L DE LPHI .

the priests of Apollo , as they were bribed or flattered ,

influenced the destinies of surroundin g nations ; an d a

s single word dictated by them , and uttered by a ense less girl , excited bloody wars , and spread desolation th : rough whole kingdoms j ust as, in a later period ,

th e chur ch the impudent assumptions of _ , of Rome dic tated to , and involved in war , the powers of Europe . N ow , so entirely has passed away all evidence of the grandeur and power which once gave celebrity to c Delphi, that scar ely a vestige remains of the folly and superstition with which man had consecrated this spot ; but the mountain and the stream are still there , to aid the indistinct traces of the locality of those objects of devotion which existed through so m any ages . The little village of Castri stands partly on the site of Delphi . Along the path of the mountain, from

Chr sso y , are the remains of sepulchres hewn in and

’ from the rock . One , said the guide , of a king wh o broke his neck His majesty had cer tainlychosen the fittest spot for such an achievement .

little above C A astri is a cave , supposed the Pythian , of immense depth ; the upper part of it is paved , and

- . r now a cow house . On the other side of Cast i stands a Greek monastery , some way above which is the cleft ffi in the rock , with a range of caverns di cult of ascent , and apparently leading to the interior of the mountain

’ probably to the Corycian Cavern mentioned by Pausa

DELPHI .

ka ta ba tlzr on an d enter a , or chasm ; it is probably from this that the Castalian spring is supplied . The super r fluons water, afte trickling among the rocks , crosses the road, and enters a modern fount, from which it makes a quick descent to the bottom of the valley, l ” through a narrow rocky g en .

The water of the fount is limpid , pleasant to the C taste , and extremely cold . Dr . handler speaks of its excessive coldness , and says, perhaps the Pythia, d who bathed in this icy flui , mistook the shivering for the god . C asting the eye over the site of ancient Delphi ,

M r says . Williams, one cannot possibly imagine what has become of the walls of th e numerous build ings which are mentioned in the history of its former m a nifice n ce - g , buildings which covered two miles of

r g pun d . With the exception of the few terraces or

a . supporting w lls , nothing now appears The various

N C in con robberies by Sylla, ero, and onstantine , are side able r for the removal of the statues of bronze , and m ff arble , and ivory , could not greatly a ect the general

Th e appearance of the city . acclivity of the hill , and e the foundations being placed on rock , without cem nt, would no doubt render them comparatively easy to be removed or hurled down into the vale below ; but the vale exhibits no appearance of accumulation of hewn stones ; and the modern village could have consumed L DE PHI .

In but few . the course of so many centuries , the débris from the mountain must have covered up a great deal , and even the rubbish itself may have acquired a soil sufficient to conceal many noble remains from the light of day ; yet we see no swellings or risings in the

. Al ground , indicating the graves of the temples l therefore is mystery , and the Greeks may truly say , Where stood the walls of our fathers ! scarce their mossy tombs remain !’

The following admirable lines by M r s. Hemans present to the imagination of the reader an exceedingly beautiful picture of the shrine and site of Delphos .

an d There have been bright glorious pageants here ,

Where n ow gray stones an d m oss - grown columns lie

e w w w to There hav been ords , hich earth gre pale hear ,

’ ’ B r eath d from the cavern s m istycham bers nigh

h sk T ere have been voices , through the sunny y

An d the - h - pine woods , their c oral hymn notes sending

An d an d D reeds lyres , their orian melody

W the m ith incense clouds around te ple blending ,

- An d w n . throngs , ith laurel boughs , before the altar be ding

There have been treasures of the seas an d isles

’ Brought to the day- god s n ow forsaken throne

’ eal d - f Thunders have p along the rock de iles,

When the far- echoing battle - horn m ade known

’ That foes were on their way The deep win d s moan

’ ’ Hath chill d the invader s heart with secret fear

M M E L D PHI .

And m the an d fro Sibyl grottos , wild lone ,

m w in Stor s have gone forth, hich, their fierce career

n From his bold hand have struck the banner a d the spear .

' The shrine hath sunk but thou un chan g d art there !

’ M the and r ob d m ount of voice vision, with drea s

’ Un chan d an d the g , rushing through radiant air,

W t th w an d m i h ydark aving pines , flashing strea s, An d all thyfounts of song ! Their bright course teem s

W an d dim ith inspiration yet ; each haze , m Or golden cloud , which floats around thee , see s As with its mantle veiling from our gaze

the ! The mysteries of the past, gods of elder days

D w Away, vain fantasies oth less of po er Dw th m th ff ell round ysum it, or ycli s invest ,

’ Though in deep stillness n ow the ruin s flower ’ ! Wave o er the pillars mouldering on thybreast Lift through the free blue heavens thine arrowycrest Let the great rocks their solitude regain No Delphian lyres now break thynoontide rest

W l —But ith their full chords , silent be the strain

’ ’ n Thou hast a mightier voice to speak th Eternal s reign

r The names of Lord Byron and M . Hobhouse are s found at Delphi, cut or scratched in conspicuou places , the record of their pilgrimage to Castaly.

O C RINTH.

That rival pyram id would rise

M m n - ore ountai like , through those clear skies ,

’ on w - c a d Than y to er pp Acropolis , W hich seem s the veryclouds to kiss .

Sie e o C g f orin th .

M yfrie n d the Marquess of Sligo expressed a wish to pro

C n w c eed with me as far as Corinth . At ori th e separated — be for Tripolitza I for Patr ass.

’ Lo d B on s L ette s r yr r .

CO N TH Of RI , from the importance its situation on the isthmus to which it gives its name , has been cele br ated from the earliest periods of Grecian history, by

s its eventful participation in the war of Greece, and its advantageous position for commerce , upon the narrow neck of land which divides the Saronic G ulf from the

Gulf of Corinth . The prodigious strength ofits situation f gave it the name of the Key O Peloponnesus . By this

pre - eminent advantage it had acquired distinction for its opulence and the arts before the rest Of Greece had

risen from comparative Obscurity . It is mentioned by Homer as existing long before

Of E h r e the siege of Troy , under the name p y , and

known in the heroic ages , or that fabulous period of

Greece which preceded chronological record , as the seat

Of of sovereignty Sisyphus , Bellerophon , and other

heroes Of Greek mythology . CORINTH.

The city of Corinth lay so near to its ports on the two seas , (the isthmus being only about five miles u across) , that it became the empori m of the produc

' Asia b C Of tions of , ythe Gulf of orinth and Italy and

Sicily, by the Saronic Gulf. Its riches, from these sources , were celebrated throughout the then known world ; and , prior to its destruction by the Romans , it must have been an extremely magnificent city . Its

O immense pulence , and the extravagance of its mer chants, made it proverbially a place so expensive to visit , that it was said , It is not for every one to go C to orinth . Here the Isthmian games were cele br ated , which drew to this luxurious place a vast con course from the states of Greece and distant countries .

O Pausanias notices in and near the city an deum , a

stadium , and sixteen temples . That dedicated to Venus

possessed above a thousand female slaves . The cele br ated C Lais long resided at orinth, and her tomb , on

C a the road to enchre e, was pointed out to Pausanias , who reports that her fame was by no m eans extinct

among the Corinthians of his day .

A . D . 52 Hither Saint Paul came , and continued

eighteen months . His two epistles to the church at Corinth indirectly prove the licentious character of the

people of this city . C The women of orinth , says Barthelemy (Tra

An achar sis vels of ) , are celebrated for their beauty ;

N N CORINTH.

h n the men by t eir love of gai and pleasure . They ruin i their health by conviv al debauches, and love with

~ them is only licentious passion . Venus is their princi

C s pal deity . The orinthians who performed uch illus

tr ious Of c acts valour in the Persian war, be oming

enervated by pleasure , sunk under the yoke of the

Argives ; were obliged alte rnately to solicit the pr otec

Lacadaem on ian s a tion of the , the Atheni ns, and the

Thebans ; and are at length reduced to be only the

’ eflem in ate wealthiest the most , and the weakest state 4 of Greece . Herodotus (viii . 9 ) denies that they per

of formed any acts valour in the battle of Salamis, but, C on the contrary, that the orinthian ships, under

Adim an tus their king , fled before the battle , and only returned to it when they heard that the fleet of the

other Greek states had won the victory . The arts Of

painting , and sculpture especially in bronze , attained in Corinth their highest perfection ; and the immense

riches Of the city was probably the chief induce ment for the Romans to make themselves parties to a dispute which ended in their taking possession Of C i orinth , sell ng its inhabitants for slaves , and giving up all its glori es to pillage . This event happened under

1 4 . C C . M um m ius 6 . the onsul L B Polybius, who was

Of present , regrets the destruction , in wantonness, the magnificent works of art by the Roman soldiery . The

e an d precious spoils , that were removed to Rom other

CORINTH.

1 41 5 M a e C , when anuel Pal eologus wrest d orinth from

Of Roger king Sicily , and restored the defences of the

Of Isthmus . In the course the two succeeding centuries,

. it became the scene of tremendous conflicts between the Turks and Venetians and its final capture by the ’ s ” Turks is the subject of Lord Be n Siege of Corinth . 1 M r . 805 Dodwell , who describes its appearance in ,

Of C says , The present town orinth, though very

Of the thinly peopled , is considerable extent, as houses are placed wide apart, and the spaces between oc

u ied w c p ith gardens . There are some fine fountains

th e in town , enriched in the Turkish taste . The

Acr ocor in thos Of C or Acropolis orinth , is one of the

O e finest bjects in Gr ece ; and if properly garrisoned ,

It would be a place of great strength and importance . shoots up m ajestically from the plain to a considerable height, and forms a conspicuous object at a great dis tance . It is clearly seen from Athens, from which it

- is not less than forty four miles in a direct line . The

Acr ocor in th os is at present regarded as the strongest

N a i n fortification in Greece , next to aupli Argolis . It s contains within its walls a town and three mo ques .

In our days it has still been a scene Of contest C orinth is taken , and the Greeks have gained a battle ” M r in the Archipelago; says Lord Byron, in a letter to . l Kinnaird , written in Greece a few months on y before ” the warrior poet had become the Pilgrim of Eternity .

T H E A R O P O L I S C ,

HEN AT S .

r awn b M W. Ta m r . . . k e R A r om a S etch b T Allason . D yJ , f y .

Ancient Of days August Athena ! where — ! Where ar e thym en of m ight thygreat of soul — Gone glim m ering through the dream ofthings that were ;

’ in the First race that led to glorys goal ,

’ won an d ass d w — the w ! They , p a ay is this hole

’ o the w an ! A schoolb ys tale , onder of hour

’ ’ The warrior s weapon an d the sophist s stole

’ in n an d m w Are sought vai , o er each ouldering to er , Dim w f flit f w t O s O . ith the mis years , grey the shade po er

Childe Ha old 2 r , canto ii . st . .

Ar' s Athens , on his fir t visit, Lord Byron made a

two stay of between and three months, not a day of. which he let pass without employing some Of its hours in vis iting the grand monuments of ancient genius around him , and calling up the spirit of other times among their ruins . Though the poet has left in his own works an ever- enduring testimony of the enthusiasm with which he now contemplated the scenes around him , it is not

f O di ficult to conceive that, to superficial bservers , Lord Byron at Athens might have appeared an untouched o o THE A RO OL S H S . C P I , AT EN

spectator of much that throws ordinary travellers into

at least verbal raptures . With the antiquary and connoisseur his sympathies were few and feeble : for antiquities , indeed , unassociated with high names and

u Of s Of deeds , he had no val e whatever ; and work art ff he was content to admire the general e ect, without

dim in Of . professing, or g at any knowledge the details N It was to ature , in her lovely scenes of grandeur and

—or beauty, , as at Athens, shining , unchanged among the — t ruins of glory and of art, tha the true fervid homage — ’ M s L e o B on . of his whole soul was paid . oore if f yr ” The Acropolis of Athens , says Dodwell , is its

l —a citade vast rock, lofty, abrupt, and nearly sur rounded by precipices , which make it inaccessible ex

Pir ee eus cept on that side which is towards the , or port

Of its of Athens . On the area summit anciently stood C the city, founded by ecrops , whence the present city , the plain , and the gulf, presented a magnificent pan orama . The Acropolis is now crowded with the ruins of the ancient monuments of Athenian glory that formerly exhibited all the magnificence which riches

S Of f and art could realise , a plendour e fect which these contended for the superiority of accomplishing ; or, as

C has handler expressed it, It appeared as one entire

O d s ffering to the eity , urpassing in excellence , and as

’ ton ishin g in richness .

Of In the days its glory , volumes were filled with the

THE RO OL S A HE S . AC P I , T N

n Of M The Partheno , or great temple inerva , stood

Of upon the highest platform the Acropolis, which was so far elevated above the westward entrance, that the pavement Of the peri style of the Parthenon was upon the same level as the capitals Of the columns of th e eastern portico of the Propylaea . The Parthenon was

t Of M o construc ed entirely white marble , from unt Pen

telicum . It consisted of a cell , surrounded with a

' ri pe style , which had eight doric columns in the fronts , ” an d seventeen in the sides . The simple construction

Of excellen ei this magnificent building, and the united es

m of materials, design , and decoration , ade it the most 22 perfect ever executed . It was 8 feet long and 1 02 ' 66 broad , and its height to the top of the pediment feet dimensions sufli cien tly great to give an impression

Of . s grandeur and sublimity Beside these, there were w h' on the Acropolis the Erechtheum , it the temples

Of M inerva Polias and Pan dr osus ; the temple of Vic tory ; and the glorious enrichments of the whole in — statues and bassi relievi .

Of These now form vast accumulations ruins, amidst which it is difficult to trace the plans Of various build ings known to have existed there . The history Of

- its Athens , from soon after the age of Pericles to con quest by the Romans , and , subsequently, to the fall of the , Eastern Empire and its possession by the Turks ,

s s is a series of destructive event which have left ruin , THE RO OL S H S . AC P I , AT EN

s i only , and tho e chiefly of the Parthenon , wh ch yet

the t its stand on Acropolis, to at est former grandeur .

ft r Of s f A er the inju ies age , the e fect of stor ms and

i s s t me, spoliation by power , de truction by lightnings

in from heaven , and bombardments by man , its last juries were inflicted by the removal Of the metopes

‘ and figur es fr om the pediment Of the Parthenon by

Lord Elgin . However gratifying it may be to us to possess such glorious works of art , their removal , and the injuries to the building consequent upon it, have deservedly drawn down the maledictions Of the genius of Byron , and left an endless stigma upon the per petr ator s of this wrong .

B ut who the ou n , of all plunderers of y fa e

’ On w lin er d flee high, here Pallas g , loath to The latest relic of her ancient reign

the who ! The last , worst, dull spoiler, was he

C I th son ! Blush, aledonia such y could be England ! I joyn o child he was of thine — Thyfree born m en sho uld spare what once was free ;

Yet theycould violate each saddening shrine ,

’ the - An d hear these altars o er long reluctant brine .

i l e Ha old 11 . 1 . Ch d . 1 r , canto st

A variety of happy circumstances conspired to give

l n to a casua residence in Athens, amo g the artists, antiquaries, and idlers, who had assembled there, that indescribable charm which induced many travellers

P p THE RO OL S H S . AC P I , AT EN

hi i to w le away months without any determ nate object , and permitted few to leave it without unfeigned r e gret . From this state of peace and enjoyment they were roused by the revolt of the Greeks . The Turkish garrison in the Acropolis was besieged ; but it was

a not long before it was relieved , and de dly revenge V r ion e . was displayed by the Turks , under Omar

i Of Upon the r repossession Athens, bloodshed and devastation marked their steps . The modern city was almost destroyed, and the wretched inhabitants compelled to fly to the islands for shelter . Those

the who , after expulsion of the Turks , returned , found only bare walls and ruined habitations . Though these contests have been so destructive to the dwellings of the Athenians , the buildings on the Acropolis have f su fered less than was expected . The latest accounts

a un by Professor Thiersch , who found the Propyl ea changed , state , that the west side of the Parthenon f has greatly su fered ; yet, although large pieces were blown out by the Turkish artillery , the pillars proved

w . so strong , that not one was thrown do n The beautiful reliefs behind the western hall remain un touched ; but a great portion Of the wall of the cella

Of has been destroyed by the covetousness the Turks , h in their search for iron and lead, with w ich the stones

. Er ecthe um are held together The is half in ruins ,

Gh ur as but the mischief was done by Greeks . o , the

THE RO OL S A H S . AC P I , T EN

claims for his countrymen , superior intelligence and higher vi rtues than are to be found under the des ” potie governments of Europe , where , however , so — many of them are delighted to live of course to shine more brightly in our darkness . Yet this person , who unblushingly boasts of outrages upon the remains of these most interesting antiquities of Greece , says True greatness never plays the part of the bragga docio. If the people under the despotic governments

a of Europe are less intelligent and happy th n we , it f is their mis ortune, not their fault ; and they are more ” deservin g of our pity than our scorn ! But we can not give him any pity in return . We laugh to see such an animal swoln to bursting with the conviction

s u that the frog is a bull , and that thousand of his co n tr ym en are conceited enough to believe the delusion but there is no term of scorn in the vocabularies of

Old the s the or new world , which can expre s the contempt felt by every man Of common sense for the

Of t i n folly the guil y braggart , who, wh lst boasti g of his superior intelligence, acknowledges his participation in the Vandalism of destroying these precious remain s of the former glories of the Acropolis .

TE PLE OF JUPI TER OLYM PIUS M ,

HEN AT S .

r awn b . Stan eld A. R . A. r om a Sketch b W a e D yC fi , f y . P g .

Here let me sit upon this massy stone ,

’ The m arble colum n s yet unshaken base

’ H son th fav r ite ere , of Saturn was y throne M ightiest of m anysuch ! Hence let m e trace

Th Of th w l - e latent grandeur yd el ing place .

’ ’ It m aynot be nor e en can Fancys eye

’ R m estore what Ti e hath labour d to deface . Yet these proud pillars claim no passing sigh

U m the M m the b . n oved osle sits , light Greek carols y

Childe Ha old . . 1 0 . r , canto ii st

EYON D h B the gate the walls project, and you ave

n Of to pass round an a gle them , in order to arrive at

Of a ruin inconceivable magnificence, directly before you to the east .

The em e of te Ol m ius Of wh ch s een co um ns T pl Jupi r y p , i ixt l , e n e of m a e et s e : o na he e we e one hun tir ly rbl , y urviv rigi lly t r r dred

d ft . hese co um n s howe e ar e b m an su ose to ha e an fi y T l , v r, y y pp d v ” belonged to the P antheon . TE M PLE OF JUPITER OLYM PIUS .

f A ter leaving the walls, and passing over corn grounds , rugged and interrupted by ravines,at about a furlong distance you come to a flat paved area, evi den tl y artificially raised, as may be seen from some foundation walls on the eastern side , and towards the

the . channel of Ilissus, which passes at a hundred paces to the south . On this stand the sixteen fluted C t i orin h an columns of the building finished by Hadrian, called by some the Pantheon, and by others the Temple of Jupiter Olym pius. The stupendous size Of the shafts Of these columns

i (for they are six feet in d ameter , and sixty feet in

S height,) does not more arrest the attention of the pec tator than the circumstance Of there being no fallen

u r ins on or near the spot, which was covered with one hundred and twenty columns , and the marble walls of

n d a temple abounding in statues of g ods and heroes , a a thousand offerings of splendid piety .

The solitary grandeur of these marble ruins is,

th e perhaps , more striking than appearance presented by any other object at Athens ; and the Turks them selves seem to regard them with an eye of respect and ” H h ’ ob ouse s J ou n . veneration . r ey di ’ Accor ng to Stuart s plan , it had , when entire ,

' - an one hundred and twenty four large columns, d — twenty six smaller ones within the cella . It stands

as upon a foundation of the soft Pir an stone , like the was its massive strength , that the fourth explosion took place before it fell . The Pacha of Egri pos inflicted upon the voivode a fine of seventeen purse s Turkish piastres) for having destroyed those venerable

n t remains . The Athe ians relate , that , af er this column

n w was throw do n , the three others nearest to it were heard at night to lament the loss of their sister ! and these nocturnal lamentations did not cease to terrify the inhabitants, till the sacrilegious voivode , who had

Of Zetoun been appointed governor , was destroyed by — ’ D l . . 3 7 . odwe l s G r e e . 8 . poison e c , vol i p

TE LE OF JU ITER OLYM PIUS MP P ,

AT ATHENS .

a l R r m a S etch b W. Pa e. r awn b St n e d A . A. o k D yC . fi , . f y g

IN this view the Temple is more distant from the

O bserver, and in such a direction that the cell of the

Stylite herm it upon the architrave is visible . The

Acropolis is here a more important feature .

You fane

On w high, here Pallas lingered , loath to flee ,

The latest relic of her ancient reign .

Ch lde Ha old 11 . . 1 1 . i r , canto st The followi ng lines upon the ruins of the Temple of

Ol m ius . . Jupiter y p were written by T K Hervey , and

’ appeared in William s s Greece .

Thou art n ot silent ! - Oracles are thine

W the an d hich wind utters , the spirit hears ,

’ L m id n ame an d ingering , rui ed f broken shrine ,

’ O er m anya tale an d trace of other years !

’ an the Bright as ark , o er all flood of tears

th - That wraps ycradle land , thine earthlylove ,

’ Where hours of hope m id centuries Of fears

H m the ave glea ed, like lightnings through gloom above ,

the th m m ! Stands , roofless to sky , yho e , Oly pian Jove

R R TE M PLE OF JUPITER OLYM PI OS .

Thy colum ned aisles with whispers of the past

an d n w Are vocal along thi e ivied alls,

W E m m in the hile lian echoes ur ur blast ,

w - flower s - And ild hang , like victor coronals ,

’ I n d b alls n vain the turba tyrant rears his ,

the m an d . And plants sy bol of his faith, slaughters

Now n ow the m , even , bea of promise falls

own u Bright upon Hellas , as her bright da ghters ,

' And a Greek Ararat is rising o er the waters !

Thou art not silent ! when the southern fair

’ — c w th s Ionia s moon lo ks do n upon ybrea t , m m S iling, as pitys iles above despair,

h a e Soft as young beauty soot ing g to rest,

the - in th Sings night spirit yweedycrest ,

And she the m the m , instrel of oonlight hours , — Breathes like som e lone on e sighing to be blest

' Her la — hO e w — m the e y half p , half sorro fro flow rs ,

n - wl A d hoots the prophet O amid his tangled bowers .

’ An d round thine altar s mouldering stones are born M ysterious harpings , wild as ever crept

m him who Fro waked Aurora everymorn, An d sad as those be sung her till sheslept

a an d e w A thous nd , a thousand years hav s ept

’ m l m th O er thee , who wert a ora fro yspring A wreck in youth ! nor vainlyhast thou kept

’ Th ! m on ylyre Oly pia s soul is the wing , An d a n ew lphitus has waked beneath its string

E m l m r n l Iy- £ 411.1 3 . ' ' fi wnj ifz e m . q ' fa r Jl r l d t h i s" by Dn m w IV I .l tnne a

f’ “ ! rll’lfillg W ITH!) ©ll AT M

' ' ' ' s tr : ww q u t J\-fin fL dl At l um . l . i i r m t- - ive my b a ck m v Gin . ul i g

' t 11 711 m"1 7nd .fll r r f u d . u/d 4 , ” I l i t r y. an !w .7/m l l /HAM g

M AID OF ATHENS.

Bythat lip I long to taste ;

Bythat zone - en c ir led waist “ Byall the token - flower s that tell What words can never speak so well ;

’ o an d Bylove s alternate j y woe ,

I the Z e 4 037 a ct 02 m m! . n; ( , ; 7

M aid Of Athens I am gone

! w . Think of me , sweet hen alone Though I fly to Istam bolfi Athens holds my heart and soul ! C an I cease to love thee No I

'

Zé 4 0 cm d nam o. n ( 3 , ; y

I had alm ost forgot to tell you that I am dying for love of

s —I in the m three Greek girls at Athens , isters lived sa e

M an d K atinc a the m house . Teresa, ariana , , 1 are na es — ” of these divinities all of them under fifteen .

’

H. D u M a 3 1 8 1 0 . L o d B on s Lette to M r . r yr r r ry, y ,

In the as whe e a es ar e n ot a h to wr e es he E t ( r l di t ug t it , l t t y

shou sc e ass na o n s flowe s c n e s e es St e . con e the ld ribbl ig ti ) , r , i d r , p bbl , v y — sentim en ts Of the parties bythat un iversal deputyof M erc ury an Old ’ wom an . A c n e sa s n for hee a unch of flowers e i d r y , I bur t ; b ti d w th ha Ta e m e an d fl a e e ec a es — wha n oth n i ir, k y but p bbl d l r t i g ” else can .

“ 1 C on stan ti nople .

In m a n o e to one of these s he had eco 1 ki g l v girl , r urse to an act of cou sh Often ac se in ha co n — n am e n h rt ip pr ti d t t u try ly, givi g im self a wo n ac oss the eas w th his a e . The oun Athen an b u d r br t i d gg r y g i , y his own acco nt oo ed on e coo n the o e a on u , l k v ry lly duri g p r ti , con sider in a fit e to her ea but in no e e m g it tribut b uty, d gr e oved to a tu gr ti de . M AID OF ATHENS .

H E ES M AOR I dau h T R A was one of three sisters, the g

‘ M r . M Cr ee ters of , a Scotchman , who married a

Grecian lady at Athens , and resided there as English consul . Having upon one occasion joined a party of

English travellers in an excursion , he caught a fever on the journey , and died , leaving his family in straitened

Ol circumstances . Their possessions were some ive

n grou ds , the rental of which was aided by their letting part of their house to English travellers . Lord Byron lived with them the first time he was at Athens ; on his

m C return thither fro onstantinople , he took up his abode at the Franciscan Convent . His frequent opportunities of seeing Theresa led to his feeling that affectionate

’ n regard towards her , or the poet s privilege of feigni g it, which occasioned the above beautiful lines . Among the English who visited Athens were two travellers , whose names are remarkable as associated

M . with city honours . essrs and

s who , struck with the beauty and manner of these interesting girls , by their attentions and avowal of ff honourable love , won the a ections of the two sisters ,

C . Theresa and atinca , and promised them marriage

r Theresa was introduced by M . W . to all his friends at

Athens as his future bride ; and upon his leaving that city , he wished that the family of his intended should gr atify his pride by no longer letting a part of their house to strangers . On the return of the lovers to s s M OF AID ATHEN S .

England , absence , and the heartlessness of their engage

ff s ments , had cooled their a ections, if their feeling towards their betrothed ever deserved to be charac ter ised by such a term . They wrote that their fathers l objected to the marriages . Passion ess affectation was the precursor to a cessation of all correspondence and i i the unhappy girls , w th hearts withering in the ch ll of neglect and desertion , shrunk into a long retirement to weep over their deceived and blighted hopes of happiness .

’ ’ M an s love is of m an s life a thing apart

’ ’ Tis wom an s whole existence .

Alas ! the love of woman it is known To be a lovely an d a fearful thing ;

u w For all of theirs pon that die is thro n ,

’ An d t if tis los , life hath no more to bring

the To them, but mockeries of past alone .

D on ua n J , canto

The excellent character of these girls , and their interesting story , excited a great desire on the part of some English visitors to bring the young recluses again into society . This was at last accomplished by

Of the kind and gentle influence Lady Ruthven , whose amiable and affectionate attentions to them induced them to accept an invitation to a ball given by the

M OF H AID AT ENS .

is hi hl mention of them g yinteresting . Our servant ,

he says , who had gone before to procure accom m o

m et t an d dation , us at the ga e , conducted us to

’ M Con sulin a s Theodora acri , the , where we at present

. d live This lady is the wi ow of the consul , and has l d three love y aughters ; the eldest , celebrated for her

’ an d M Of beauty , said to be the aid of Athens , Lord

Byron . Their apartment is immediately Opposite to ours ; and ifyou could see them , as we do now , through the gently waving aromatic plants before the window , you would leave your heart in Athens .

the M C M Theresa , aid of Athens, atinca , and ari

Of Of a ana , are middle stature . On the crown the he d

- of each is a red Albanian skull cap, with a blue tassel spread out and fastened down like a star . Near the edge or bottom of the skull- cap is a handkerchief Of vari ous colours bound round their temples . The youngest wears her hair loose , falling on her shoulders , the hair behind descending down the back nearly to

l . the waist , and, as usua , mixed with silk The two

o d eldest generally have their hair b und , and fastene under the handkerchief. Their upper robe is a pelisse edged with fur, hanging loose down to the ankles ; below is a handkerchief of muslin covering the bosom , t and terminating at the waist , which is shor ; under

Of that, a gown striped silk or muslin , with a gore

Of round the swell the loins , falling in front in graceful M AI D OF ATHE NS . negligence ; white stockings and yellow slippers com

lete . The v l p their attire two eldest ha e b ack , or dark ,

an d hair eyes their visage oval , and complexion some

’ what pale, with teeth of dazzling whiteness . Their check s are rounded , and noses straight, rather inclined M to aquiline . The youngest , ariana , is very fair , her face not so finely rounded , but has a gayer expression

’ than her sisters , whose countenances , except when the

Of ma conversation has something mirth in it , ybe said to be rather pensive . Their persons are elegant, and their manners pleasing and ladylik e , such as would be

con si fascinating in any country . They possess very der abl e powers of conversation , and their minds seem to be more instructed than those of the Greek women in general . With such attractions , it would indeed be remarkable if they did not meet with great attentions from the travellers who occasionally are resident in

Athens . They sit in the eastern style , a little reclined ,

m with their limbs gathered under the on the divan ,

and without shoes . Their employments are the needle ,

e . tambouring , and r ading I have said that I saw these Grecian beauties through the waving aromatic plants before their win

dow . This perhaps has raised your imagination some what too high in regard to their condition . You may have supposed their dwelling to have every attribute of eastern luxury . The aromatic plants which I have

T T u the ladies sit is q ite unfurnished, the walls neither

’ painted nor decorated by cunning hand . Since the death of the consul their father, these ladies depend on strangers lodging in their spare room and closet, which we now occupy . But though so poor, their virtue shines as conspicuous as their beauty . Not all the

Of wealth of the east , or the complimentary lays the

’ first of England s poets, could render them so truly ” worthy of love and admiration .

Con sulin a The , after the retirement of the Turks, returned again to Athens . And the latest accounts of Theresa have broken the charm of poetry which sur rounded her ; she is said to be married and grown fat !

FRANCISCAN CONVENT . even those who are too obtuse to be impressed by the

- ff . master spell , go there for fashion , and a ect to feel

n w Here Byro , gazing out upon a scene of hich he

the Of had said , when looking upon plain Athens, that it was a more glorious prospect than even Cintra or ” Istam bol — , here he received many of those inspirations to which his mind has given a deathless grandeur . N ” o view in Athens , says Dodwell , is superior to that fr om the convent in beauty an d in interest ; while t it is surmoun ed by the eastern end of the Acropolis ,

Of M it commands an animating prospect ount Parnes ,

An chesm os H m ettos f Pentelikon , , y , and part O the

th e Saronic gulf, with islands and Peloponnesian moun

O tains . The nearer bjects are the Arch of Hadrian ,

Ol m ius the Temple of Jupiter y p , the Ilissus , and the

O Stadium . An pen gallery , which formed part of our lodging , was perpetually impressing our minds with

n the sublimity of this sce ery , and with the numerous ” classical recollections it inspired . f O M r . In the view the convent sketched by Page , there is seen over the wall of the court or garden part

an Object of great interest to antiquaries and archi tec ts — a , little building, celebrated for its display of — Greek taste, and of singular beauty, the choragic

monument of Lysicr ates . The walls of the convent

have been so built as partly to enclose it within one Of

: its angles to this circumstance , probably, this elegant I

FRANCISCAN CONVENT .

little structure has owed its preservation . It is built of

its white marble , and is so small that internal diameter

en is not more than five feet eleven inches . It was tir el was O y closed up and inaccessible , until it pened on one side , probably in search of expected treasures . Now there is a door by which it is entered from a cham ber in the convent, and light is admitted by windows . w The lines , like joints , hich induced Stuart to think its circular cell was composed of six layers, have been cut to convey that appearance in the solid stone , for the cell did not consist of more than two cylin drical pieces . The summit of this monument is surmounted

by an elegant ornament , whose triangular top was evi d en tlydesigned to support the tripod which had been

the reward to the victors in the musical contest . In Stuart ’ s Athens ” there is a beautiful design of the appearance Of the monument when crowned with the

tripod . Stuart, who has drawn and described it with

great care , says that there is on the architrave an

inscription , from which we learn that on some solemn

festival , which was celebrated with games and plays ,

L sicr ates Kik n a - y , of y , a demos or borough town of the

Ak am an tis tribe of , did , on behalf of his tribe , but at

own his expense , exhibit a musical or theatrical enter

tain m en t th e Of Ak am an tis , in which boys the tribe of

Obtained the victory ; and in memory of their victory

this monument was erected , and the name of the person

E U FRANCI SCAN CONVE NT .

w as at whose expense the entertainment exhibited , of the tribe that gained the prize , and the musician who accompanied the performers , and of the composer

Of the piece , were all recorded on it ; to them the name

’ of the annual ar ch orr is likewise added in whose year of magistracy all this was executed . From this last circumstance , it appears that this building was erected above three hundred and thirty years before the C hristian era , in the time of Apelles , Lysippus , and ” Alexander the Great .

Dodwell , when he was at Athens, lodged also in this convent . He writes of it , that it is situated at

- the south east extremity of the town , near the Arch of Hadrian , in the Tripod street of the ancients , now d e enominated Kand la , and which , with the neighbour

n e ing church of Pa agia Kand la , takes its name from the

Of e lantern Demosthenes , sometimes called Kand la , a although Phan ri is the more common appellation , f bo th O these words signifying lantern .

Of The upper part this monument is hollow , and contains a space of nearly six feet diameter, which is at present the library of the superior of the convent ; the roof, which is in the form of a low cupola , consists of a single mass : the whole is constructed with great judg d ment and solidity, which has enabled it to efy the

ff an d Of th e e ects of time , the ravages elements, for d more than two thousan years ; and it may , perhaps ,

FRANCIS CAN C ONVENT . the chamber in it as only capable of holding one student at his desk , and that it merely serves as a small circular recess to the left wing of the convent, from which it is separated by a curtain of green cloth ; yet , in this strange uncomfortable place only , would Lord Byron sleep . This was related to an English artist , on his

t Lusier i visi to Athens, by , with some amusing jokes

Of upon the illustrious poet , as to the direction his head or his heels , for one or other must have extended beyond the entrance to the cell .

C A P E C O L O N N A .

r a wn b W ur r e . D y . P s

m w m Fair cli e , here every season s iles

’ a s Benign nt o er those ble sed isles ,

’ W m COLON N A S hich, seen fro far height ,

M the ake glad heart that hails the sight,

n A d lends to loneliness d e light . T m ’ here , mildlydi pling ocean s cheek Reflects the tints of m any a pe ak Caught bythe laughing tides that lave These Edens of the eastern wave

An d m if, at ti es , a transient breeze

the t s Break blue crys al of the sea ,

w on e som m the Or s eep blos fro trees , How welcom e is each gentle air That wakes an d wafts the odours there

The Gi a our .

’ e m e on S un ium s ed t Plac marbl s eep , Where nothing save the waves an d I M ayhea r our mutual m urm urs sweep

- w m e an d . There , s an like , let sing die

D on ua n a J , c nto CAPE C OLONNA .

’ w oft T as my luck to dine ,

The m - in grass ytable cloth , open air ,

On S un ium .

D on ua n n J , ca to xv .

H S T I celebrated promontory , which was sacred in

M n the time of Homer, and where enelaus, retur ing

Phr on tis the from Troy , buried his pilot , is one of

an d finest situations in Greece , is much more elevated than I had supposed . It towers in impressive majesty from the sea , and is precipitous on all sides except w towards Laurion . The vie from it combines beauty ,

: s interest, and extent it overlook the wide expanse of

iE ean . o the g , with many of its islands Eub ea is seen

w - to ards the north east , with the lofty ridges of Karystos in or Oche terminating the sea , with the white shore and rough G e r aistian promontory celebrated for storms

a nd M and pirates ; at present , according to eletius ,

n X l o ha os de ominated y p g , the devourer of wood , from the number of ships which are lost upon its rocks . Nor is Cape Colonna less destructive in tempestuous weather , when , with awful contrast, this strikingly beautiful scene from the promontory , to which every traveller who has visited it bears testimony, exhibits its terrors under the effects of the storms which some times frightfully rage around its scathed head . Dod

Sun ium well says , The promontory of is exposed more than almost any other plain to the violence of

TE PLE OF INERVA M M ,

L CAPE CO ONNA .

W ur n er R . A. r om a S etch b T. Allason E w b . M . k a n . s . Dr yJ T , f y , q

Tritonia’s airy shrine adorns

’

Colon n a s ff an d m the w . cli , glea s along ave

Ha old . Childe . 86 . r , canto ii st

THE promontory of Sun ium was anciently deco

of M rated with two temples ; one inerva Sunias , and

. ’ the other of Neptune S un i ar atos . The peripteral temple which yet remains is generally supposed to be that of M inerva .

“ It is elevated upon three steps, and possessed originally six columns in front, and probably thirteen on each side , composed of white marble , resembling

hor ik os that of T , and in all probability brought from

. es e that place The metop , which are ornam nted with

- a bas reliefs, are pparently from the Parian quarries . In the time of Spon there were nineteen columns

. i n standing The Abbé Tourmont says , that his time

,

‘ there were seventeen . Le Roy has represented two

a ant e and two columns at the eastern front , four columns

on the north side , and seven on the south side . The

Y Y TE M PLE OF M INE RVA . present remains consist of two columns and a pilaster of the pronaos, three columns on the northern side , and nine on the southern . Le Roy has given only thirteen columns, whereas fourteen are remaining at C the present day . handler says that some of them

afli er were destroyed by a Turk named J Bey . Thi s beautiful temple appears to be of much less a C ntiquity than that of orinth , and of Jupiter at n ina ; and the elegance of its proportions indicates that it is a more recent structure than the Parthenon .

the Ca Vitruvius asserts , that temple of stor, in the

Flaminian circus at Rome , was similar to that of

M inerva at Sun ium .

Sun ium The temple on the promontory , which is situated near the sea , and exposed to continual winds,

efHuv ia has been corroded by the saline , insomuch that the angles of the flutin gs have lost their original sharp ness ; and instead of the golden patina that is seen on

Sun ium the Parthenon , the marble of exhibits its original whiteness , which , contrasted with the bright blue sky above , and the dark green shrubs of the fore

ff . ground , has a singular and lively e ect The forests e of Sophocles have disappeared , and are r placed by

- some wild olive trees and dwar fish junipers . The temple is supported on the north side by a

- regularly constructed terrace wall , of which seventeen

e layers of stone still remain . Some metopa are scat

TEM PLE OF M INE RVA . settled rule concerning the reciprocal proportions of these two edifices to one another . As we were desirous of making several drawings

s a of thi be utiful temple , we remained here four days ,

the and slept in a cavern in the side of precipice , which commanded a view over the wide and varied shores of

” ’ — l u hr u h D odwel s To t o G r ee e . the Saronic Gulf. r g c ” all In Attica , says Lord Byron , in a note to

“ C M a hilde Harold , if we except Athens itself and r athon C , there is no scene more interesting than ape

'

C . olonna To the antiquary and artist, sixteen columns are an inexhaustible source of observation and design ;

' to the philosophe r , the supposed . scene of some of

’ Plato s conversations will not be u nwelcome ; and the traveller will be struck with the beauty of the prospect ’ — over isles that crown the n ean deep . This Temple of M inerva may be seen at sea from a great distance . C In two journeys which I made , and one voyage to ape

C the r Was olonna , view f om either side by land less strik ing than the approach fro m the isles . In our second land excursion we had a narrow escape from a party of

"

M ain oites . e , concealed in the caverns beneath We w re told afterwards by one of their prisoners subsequently ransomed , that they were deterred from attacking us

: c by the appearance of my two Albanians onjecturing ,

r a h ad ve y s gaciously , but falsely , that we a complete

Ar n aouts guard of these at hand , they remained sta TEM PLE OF M INE RVA .

tion ar t y, and thus saved our par y , which was too small

to have opposed any effectual resistance . There is a curious anecdote mentioned in a note to

in the Giaour, connexion with the escape of Lord Byron C C at the ape olonna, which shews that a superstition

of second hearing, like that of the second sight among

the Highlands of Scotland , prevails in Greece . A whi msical story is related of a party of sailors

who paid a visit to th e Temple of M inerva Sunias .

d n off C M . a lan When H . . S the G r was cruisi g ape

C . olonna , some of the crew obtained leave to land For

un i f they had prov ded themselves with a tub of tar, or t black pain , which they carried up to the Temple, where some of them actually succeeded in climbing to the

architrave, and painting upon its whole length , in

enormous letters , the name of their ship . Some set to

work below , and painted black bases to the columns ; and others amused themselves by daubing devi ces on

l . the fal en masses It would seem , however, that Jupi M ter Pluvius came in aid of inerva , to avenge her

violated fane , for one of the records of their visit, left

b It r a ins li ke y the tars . was

SANTA SOPHIA .

the Nika of the blue and green factions . No sooner C did the tumult subside, than the hristian populace deplored their sacrilegious rashness ; but they might have rejoiced in the calamity , had they foreseen the glory of the new temple , which at the end of forty days was strenuously undertaken by the piety of Justinian .

The ruins were cleared away , a more spacious plan was described ; and as it required the consent of some proprietors of ground , they obtained the most exorbitant terms from the eager desires and timorous conscience

the . An them ius of monarch formed the design , and his genius directed the hands of ten thousand work

in men , whose payment pieces of fine silver was never delayed beyond the evening . The emperor himself, t clad in a linen unic , surveyed each day their rapid progress, and encouraged their diligence by his fami l r ia it . y, his zeal , and his rewards The new cathedral of St . Sophia was consecrated by the patriarch , five years , eleven months , and ten days from the first foun dation ; and in the midst of the solemn festival , Justi

n nian exclaimed , with devout va ity , Glory be to God , who hath thought me worthy to accompli sh so great a 0 !’ work ; I have vanquished thee , Solomon But the pride of the Roman Solomon, before twenty years had h elapsed , was humbled by an earthquake, whic over I threw the eastern part of the dome . ts splendour was again restored bythe perseverance of the same prince ; S ANTA SOPHIA .

an d - in the thirty sixth year of his reign , Justinian celebrated the second dedication of a temple , which a remains, after twelve centuries , stately monument of his fame . The architecture of St . Sophia, which is

the h as now converted into principal mosch , been imita ted by the Turkish sultans and that venerable pile continues to excite the fond admiration of the

Greeks , and the more rational curiosity of European travellers . The eye of the spectator is disappointed by an irregular prospect of half- domes and shelving roofs ; the western front, the principal approach , is destitute of simplicity and magnificence ; and the scale of dimensions has been much surpassed by several of the Latin cathedrals . But the architect who first erected an aerial cupola , is entitled to the praise of bold design and skilful execution . The dome of St .

- - Sophia, illuminated by four and twenty windows , is

the formed with so small a curve , that depth is equal only to one- sixth of its diameter ; the measure of that

an d diameter is one hundred fifteen feet , and the . lofty

n centre , where a crescent has suppla ted the cross , rises to the perpendicular height of one hundred and eighty feet above the pavement . The circle which en com

passes the dome, lightly reposes on four strong arches, and their weight is firmly supported by four massy piles, whose strength is assisted on the northern and southern sides by four columns of Egyptian granite .

3 A SANTA SOPHIA .

A Greek cross , inscribed in a quadrangle , represents

the form of the edifice ; the exact breadth is two hun

- dred and forty three feet , and two hundred and sixty nine may be assigned for the extreme length from the sanctuary in the east to the nine western doors which

c open into the vestibule , and from then e into the

n a r tlzex . , or exterior portico That portico was the humble station of the penitents . The nave , or body of the church , was filled by the congregation of the

two s faithful ; but the exes were prudently distinguished , and the upper and lower galleries were allotted for the more private devotion of the women . Beyond the

n northern and southern piles, a balustrade , termi ated on either side by the thrones of the emperor and the

th e patriarch , divided nave from the choir ; and the space , as far as the steps of the altar, was occupied by the clergy and singers . The altar itself, a name which C insensibly became familiar to hristian ears, was placed in the eastern recess , artificially built in the form of a demi - cylinder ; and this sanctuary communicated by

a several doors with the sacristy , the vestry, the b ptistery ,

r and the contiguous buildings , subse vient either to the pomp of worship , or the private use of the ecclesiastical ministers . The memory of past calamities inspired

Justinian with a wise resolution , that no wood , except

ed for the doors , should be admitted into the new ifice i and the choice of the materials was applied to the

S S ANTA OPHIA . of silver ; and the holy vases and vestments of the altar were of the purest gold , enriched with inestimable gems .

Before th e structure of the church had risen two cubits

o - five above the gr und , forty thousand two hundred

. pounds were already consumed ; and the wholeexpense amounted to three hundred and twenty thousand ' each

' m a reader , according to the measure of his belief, y estimate their value either in gold or silver ; but the sum of one million sterling is the result of the lowest

is computation . A magnificent temple a laudable monument of national taste and religion ; and the e n

. thusiast who entered the dome of St . Sophia might be

h the tempted to suppose t at it was residence, or even the workmanship , of the Deity . Yet, how dull is the i artifice , how insign ficant is the labour, if it be com pared with theformation of the vilest insect that crawls ” upon the surface of the temple ! 1 453 C When , in , onstantinople was taken by

M ahomet the Second , and the Turks rushed into the devoted city , the terrified inhabitants, from every part of the capital , flowed into the church of St . Sophia .

r In the space of one hour , the sanctua y , the choir, the nave , the upper and lower galleries , were filled h wit the multitudes of fathers and husbands , of women i ” and children , of priests, monks, and rel gious virgins .

The fane of St . Sophia was violated , as well as that of every other temple in which the wretched Greeks S ANTA SOPHIA .

sought a momentary security : they were dragged from

s - the sacred domes and the altar to the slave market, and from every place where they had sought refuge

within the walls , to become the victims of the passions,

t . the cupidi y , and the power of their conquerors The profanation of the plunder of the monasteries

and churches excited the most tragic complaints . The

dome of St . Sophia itself, the earthly heaven, the

fir m am en t the second , the vehicle of cherubim , the throne of the glory of God , was despoiled of the obla tions of ages ; and the gold and silver , the pearls and jewels , the vases and sacerdotal ornaments , were most wickedly converted to the servi ce of mankind . After the divine images had been stripped of all that could be valuable to a profane eye , the canvass, or the wood ,

n was torn , broken , or burnt, or trod u der foot, or applied in the stables or the kitchen , to the vilest ’ F ll G ibbon s D e line a nd a . uses . c Af ter eight hours of disorder and rapine , on the me m or able - M a 1 453 twenty ninth of y, , the Sultan entered in triumph , by the gate of St . Romanus, the city he had conquered . At the principal door of St . Sophia he alighted from his horse , and entered the dome ; and s uch was his jealous regard for that monument of his

n g M u glory , that on observi a zealous uss lman in the act of breaking the marble pavement, he admonished him

sc m etar with his y , that , if the spoil and the captives 3 B command the metropolis of the eastern church was transformed into a mosch the rich and porta ble in str um en ts of superstition were removed ; the crosses were thrown down ; and the walls , which were covered

m with images and osaics , were washed and purified , and restored to a state of naked simplicity . On the

m uez in same day , or on the ensuing Friday , the or crier ascended the lofty turret , and proclaimed the ez a n , or public invitation in the name of God and his prophet ; the iman preached and M ahomet the Second performed the n a m a z of prayer and thanksgiving on C the great altar, where the hristian mysteries had so ” ' e Ca lately been celebrated befor the last of the esars .

In the new character of a mosch , the cathedral of

“ St . Sophia was endowed with an ample r even uefi crowned with lofty minarets , and surrounded with groves and fountains , for the devotion and refresh ment of the M oslems . The same model was imitated in the ja m i or royal m osch s ; and the first of these M i was built, by ahomet himself, on the ru ns of the church of the Holy Apostles and the tombs of the ” — ’ . G ibbon s D e li ne n Greek emperors c a d F a ll .

Toum efor t sa s es—a out y , livr b

SANTA SOPHIA .

l This church , which is certain y the finest structure in ’ “ the world next to St . Peter s at Rom efi looks to be very unwieldy without . The plan is almost square ; and the dome , which is the only thing worth remarking , rests outwardly on four prodigious large towers , which have been added of late years to support this vast building

r and make it immovable , in a count y where whole — cities are often overthrow n by earthquakes The vi l lages whose revenues belong to the royal mosques have large privileges their inhabitants are exempt from quar tering soldiers , and from being oppressed by the bashaws , who , when they travel that way, turn aside . The most striking impression made by the first vi ew of Constantinople arises from th e peculiar character of its minarets and domes . When presented to the eye of a stranger , there is a novelty and a splendour in their Oriental appearan ce which leads the visitor to imagine l that he is on y dreaming of the scenes before him . Of N its picturesque beauty as compared with aples , Lord

Byron was no j udge, as he had never visited the latter N city ; many , however, who have seen both prefer aples ,

M acFar lan e C and among them , who says , a laude Lor

n raine would , after the compariso , return with increased adoration to the southern parts of the Italian peninsula .

’ ou nef t was at Con s an t no in . a s was n T r or t i ple 1 702 S t . P ul ot then built .

S POLE TO .

Har di n r aw . . D n byJ. D g

O D Y ON L R B R , in his journey to Rome , passed through Spoleto but he makes scarcely any other mention of it than in a note in the fourth canto of

Clitum n us Childe Harold upon the Temple of , where N i he says , o book of travels has omitted to expat ate

Clitum n us on the Temple of the , between Foligno and

an d Spoleto no site or scenery , even in Italy, is more

’ worthy a description . He once more mentions it in M ’ r . M M o a letter to urray, published in ore s Life of

v . Byron , as one of the towns that he isited Spoleto,

S ol etium five anciently p , was colonised above hundred

C : years before hrist according to Livy , it successfully opposed an attack of the Carthaginian army under

its a Hannibal , in march through Umbria fter its vic

u tory at Thr asym en e . The ref sal of the people to sur

render their city checked the advance of the Gartha

ginian general upon Rome, and Hannibal drew off his

n forces to Picenum . A inscription over the arch of an

ancient gate commemorates this event, where the record 3 c L SPO E TO . is still proudly pointed out by the inhabitants ; and the

’ d An n ibal gate bears the name of the Porto e .

Spoletium ranked high among the cities of Italy . It suffered severely during the civil wars of M arius

Th e and Sylla . city is situated upon the side and summit of a hill , and , externally , it is one of the most picturesque i n Italy ; but the remains of its cele br a ted aqueduct and citadel have no higher antiquity than Theodoric . Eustace says , it was destroyed N during the Gothic war, and rebuilt by arses , the rival ” and successor to Belisarius . The aqueduct, crossing the deep and narrow valley which separates the hill upon which Spoleto is built from the general mass of

n the mountains , and servi g both as a conduit and a bridge , rests upon a range of ten pointed arches of

M r . enormous height . Woods states the elevation at 250 23 0 d ! feet, and Addison at yar s In these disere pan cie s of travellers it will be fair to take the most — probable the former . Some of the arches have been — divided into two one over the other .

Th e t citadel , an immense s one building surrounded

. with a. stone rampart , crowns a lofty point over looking the town . The cathedral is also in a com manding situation ; it was raised by the Lombard dukes , but it presents now an anomalous appearance of Gothic c arches , supported by Grecian columns , the in ongruity of some modern Goth . Remains of Roman antiquity was seized , and shot in the

P IA Z E T T A,

EN CE V I .

b S r out Dr awn y . P .

Venice , lost and won ,

Her m thirteen hundred years of freedo done , —w Sinks , like a sea eed , into whence it rose

’ whelm d an d Better be beneath the waves , shun ,

’ E in n f ven destructio s depth, her foreign oes ,

n From whom sub m ission wrings a infam ous repose .

In - a n ew youth she was all glory, Tyre ,

Her veryby- word sprung from victory ” n h The Planter of the Lio , which t rough fire

’ An d blood she bore o er subject earth an d sea ; k m Though ma ing anyslaves , herself still free ,

’ ’ And Europe s bulwark gainst the Ottom ite !

’ W C e itness Troys rival , andia Vouch it , y

’ Im m ortal waves that saw Lepanto s fight

m n r For ye are na es o tim e nor tyanny can blight .

— ’ — Statues of glass all shiver d the long file Of her dead Doges are declined to dust

B ut w the an d here theydwelt, vast sumptuous pile Bespeaks the pageant of their splendid trust

3 D PIAZETTA .

an d in Their sceptre broken, their sword rust ,

the m Have yielded to stranger e ptyhalls ,

t and Thin stree s , foreign aspects , such as must

n her who a n d w n Too oft remi d hat e thrals ,

’ ’ a H ve flung a desolate cloud o er Venice s lovelywalls .

Chi ld e Ha old r , canto iv .

and Venice pleases me as much as I expected , I expected

one much . It is of those places which I know before I

m and has m f the E I see the , haunted me ost , a ter ast . like

and the gloomy gaiety of their gondolas , the silence of

I the their canals . do not even dislike evident decayof

the the S i city, though I regret ngularity of its vanished

m : w the C costu e ho ever , there is much left still ; arnival , ” m . too , is co ing

L ette to M r . M u a L e o Lo d B on . r rr y, if f r yr

The Piazetta is the state entrance to Venice from the sea , and extends to the church and the eastern end

M . of the Place of St . ark In the view here given , the

Ducal Palace , in all the grandeur of its massiveness ,

- r and all the topsy tu vy of its architectural character , a vast incumbe nt structure upon an apparently very in — adequate support, appears on the left hand ; and on the M M right , the int and the Library of St . ark ; beneath

s which are a range of hops under a colonnade , ex tending into and around the Place of St . M ark . In the foreground are th e square marble pillars which Sim on d w mentions as being covered ith Syriac characters , upon

PIAZETTA. the destinies of Europe in the middle ages ; here are

he at once the trophies of this sea queen , and t evidence

is of her subjugation . The history of Venice one of th e own most interesting , except that of our country , to

u which the political inquirer can t rn his attention , and ” r of which the Sketches of Venetian Histo y , recently

‘

M r . M published by urray , is an admirable epitome . In it the origin and progress of its political existence

u are traced , and the immense reso rces of wealth and power derived from commerce by a people placed upon a spot so limited by Nature that she defied art greatly

- to extend it . The mud and sand banks in the Lagunes ,

the formed by the deposition of silt within the Lido, natural breakwater of Venice , appear to have been

fe w inhabited by a fishermen at a very early period , but they were unnoticed by the Romans , from their

in si n ifi an e c c . utter g In the fifth century , when the Huns under Attila overran the territory of ancient e Venetia, many of the inhabitants took refug on the

the flat islands along coast , particularly within the

- a Lagunes, and on that of Ripa Alt , where the Rialto ,

. h the first foundation of Venice , was laid From t is place the inhabitants sent the salt of their islands , and

fish from their seas, to the neighbouring continen t ; afterwards they became transporters of wine and oil from Istria to Ravenna ; and finally , the carriers of the Adriatic . Their commerce produced wealth, their wealth importance . At this time they considered their PIAZETTA.

"

- sand banks a portion of the Greek empire . When they became rich , however, they assumed independence , and established a form of government, of twelve tribunes

do s . and a chief magistrate , or g In the twelfth century o the verwhelming power of the aristocracy arose, the

do s authority of the g became almost nominal , and the people lost all control in the affairs of the r epublic . From this time its progress to great political im portance was rapid beyond belief. One of its gene C t rals took and sacked onstantinople ; the coas , from

Ragusa to the Hellespont , presented a chain of forts , f towns , and actories , belonging to its nobles , and pro tected C n by the state ; a dia was purchased , the Ionian M r Islands and the o ea conquered , and the cities of

Padua, Verona , Bergamo, and others, were acquired — and annexed to th e dominions of this metropolis on a

- mud bank . The trade of the Levant in the fifteenth century was entirely in the hands of the Venetians , through whom all the productions of the East passed into Europe ; and their commerce had become a source of power and splendour almost unknown in the history

’ of other nations . With Vasco de Gama s discovery of the C H 1 497 passage to the East by the ape of Good ope , in ,

e b gan the first decline of the source ofVenetian greatness .

Its accumulated resources , when it could not have its waste supplied , rapidly sunk, and its political influence

. r e withered One colony after another was taken , or v olted r from it , until, despoiled ofits territo y , and without

3 E PIAZETTA.

. at 1 797 respect home or abroad , it fell , in , into the

n 1 81 6 frater al hands of the French ; after the events of , however , it was restored to Austrian protection .

.he Forsyth says , that found Venice just what he — if had imagined it to be from books and so, his was a singular anticipation ; for one of the most

a common remarks made by travellers, upon their p

r oachi n p g Venice , or arriving there, is an expression of surprise that it is so unlike what they had expected .

r It is t ue , that the Bridge of the Rialto, the Place of M t Saint ark , and the Ducal Palace , have been so of en described and engraved, that they are instantly recog n ised n ; but, as a whole , no la guage has ever conveyed a j ust idea of this extraordinary city Every pre

of conceived idea Venice, it has been justly remarked ,

s as a city or as a society , belong to the imagination ; and on beholding it the illusion is embodied , rather than dispelled . It is one of the few places that do not disappoint the expectation, because if some visionary e anticipations are dispelled by the reality , th re is still

n stra geness enough , and novelty , and gorgeousness, to sustain the mind to the same pitch of excitement . The moral interest of the scene comes in aid of the effect produced by the picture ; and in gazing upon the ma

estic c j combination of former splendour and actual de ay,

’ we feel that we are reading a history .

’ nder It l Co s a y.

M ARG UERITA GOGN I .

f a a M a te, e la terra che ti r yyou be blessed , and

m h ”— ! the ear th which you will a e . is it not pretty

ou You would think it still prettier if y had heard it, as

I did two hours ago , from the lips of a Venetian girl ,

’ with large black eyes, a face like Faustina s, and the — figure of a Juno tall and energetic as a Pythoness ,

i n with eyes flashing, and her dark hair streaming — the moonlight one of those wome n who m aybe made any thing . I am sure if I put a poniard into the hand

I told of this one, she would plunge it where her ,

m e ff . and into , if I o ended her I like this kind of animal , and am sure that I should have preferred

M . edea to any woman that ever breathed You may ,

’

h in . per aps , wonder that I don t that case I could — have for given the dagger or the bowl any thing—but the deliberate desolation piled upon me , when I stood alone upon my hearth , with my household gods shivered

i f 9“ around me . Do you suppose I have for gotten or forgiven it ! It h as comparatively swallowed up in me every other feeling , and I am only a spectator

'

c fier s. I upon earth , till a tenfold opportunity t may come yet . There are others more to be blamed than

and it is on these that my eyes are fixed un ” c easin gly. It would certainly be difficult to conjecture where abouts, in the portrait , lies any evidence of her terma gant character . Lavater himself would fail to find M ARGUE RITA GOGNI . any thing in the countenance which bespoke the virago

Lord Byron described her to have been . Of this he l M r . M was sensib e himself ; for, in a letter to urray , he said : If you choose to make a print h om the

’ Venetian , you may ; but she don t correspond at all ” c with the haracter you mean to represent . The print alluded to was made , but never published .

a i In spe k ng of the Venetian women , Lord Byron,

s in one of his letter , remarks , that the beauty for which they were once so celebrated is no longer now

’ to be found among the Dame, or higher orders , but

fazziol i all under the , or kerchiefs, of the lower .

It was, unluckily , among these latter specimens of the

’ bel sangue of Venice that he now , by a suddenness l of descent in the sca e of refinement, for which nothing but d co the present waywar state of his mind can ac unt, chose to select the companions of his disengaged hours — i and an additional proof that, in this short , dar ng career of libertinism , he was but desperately seeking t relief for a wronged and mor ified spirit , and

’ ’ W seem d hat to us guilt might be but woe ,

an is that , more than once , of evening, when his house has been in the possession of such visitants, he has been known to hurry away in his gondola, and pass the

o greater part of the night upon the water, as if hating t 3 F RGU GOG M A ERITA NI .

return to his home . It is, indeed , certain , that to this least defensible portion of his whole life, he always cf looked back , during the short remainder it, with painful self- reproach ; and amon g the causes of the detestation which he afterwards felt for Venice , this recollection of the excesses to which he had there aban don ed himself wasnot the least prominent .

The most distinguished and , at last, the reigning

all favourite . of this unworthy harem was a woman

M Co n i named arguerita g , who has been already men tion ed in one of these letters, and who, from the trade

the ms. of her husband , was known by the title of For

. w rina A portrait of this handsome virago , dra n by

Harlowe when at Venice , having fallen into the hands of one of Lord Byron ’ s friends after the death of that artist, the noble poet, on being applied to for some par ticul ar s his h of eroine , wrote a long letter on the sub

ec t fio m : j , which the following are extracts

the M r G Since you desire story of argue ita ogni , you shall be told it , though it may be lengthy . Her face is the fine Venetian cast of the old

s time ; her figure , though perhaps too tall , is not le s

fin e — and taken altogether in the national dress .

the 1 81 7 a nd In summer of , myself were

a on e sauntering on horseback along the Brent evening, when , amongst a group of peasants , we remarked two girls as the prettiest we had seen for some time . About

E COGNI M ARG U RITA .

thoughts, in her countenance , in every thing, with all

n aivete . their and pantaloon humour Besides, she l could neither read nor write , and could not p ague me — with letters , except twice that she paid sixpence to a public scribe , under the piazza , to make a letter for her, upon some occasion when I was ill and could not see h er s . In other respect , she was somewhat fierce and

’ prepotente , that is, overbearing , and used to walk in whenever it suited her , with no very great regard to

rs e time, place , nor pe ons ; and if she found any wom n

if in her way, she knocked them down . h W en I came to Venice for the winter , she fol lowed ; and as she found herself out to be a favourite ,

she came to me pretty often . But she had inordinate

- self love, and was not tolerant of other women . At the

’ Cav alchin a , the masked ball on the last night of the

carnival , where all the world goes, she snatched off M C the mask of adame ontarini , a lady noble by birth , u and decent in conduct, for no other reason, but beca se

she happened to be leaning on my arm . You may

” suppose what a cursed noise this made ; but this is only

one of her pranks .

At last she quarrelled with her husband, and one

evening ran away to my house . I told her this would

not do ; she said she would lie in the street, but not go back to him ; that he beat her (the gentle

spent her money , and scandalously neglected her . As M ARG UERITA GOGNI .

it was midnight , I let her stay , and next day there was no moving her at all . Her husband came , roaring and

back z— n ot ! crying, and entreating her to come she

He then applied to the police, and they applied to me — I told them and her husband to ta ke her I did not want her ; she had come , and I could not fling her out of the window ; but they might conduct her through that or the door if they chose it . She went before the

w as commissary , but obliged to return with that becco

’ e ttico a s . , she called the poor man , who had a phthisic

In a few days she ran away again . After a precious l piece of work , she fixed herse f in my house, really and truly without my consent ; but owing to my indolence , and not being able to keep my countenance , for if I began in a rage , she always finished by making me laugh with some Venetian pantaloonery or another ; and the gipsy knew this well enough , as well as her other powers of persuasion , and exerted them with the

- usual tact and success of all she things ; high and low, they are all alike for that . M adame Benzon i also took her under her pro

tecti on . , and then her head turned She was always in extremes , either crying or laughing, and so fierce when angered , that she was the terror of men , women , and — children for she had the strength of an Amazon , with

M . the temper of edea She was a fine animal, but I quite untameable . was the only person that could

3 G R E G G M A GU RITA O NI .

n at all keep her in any order, and whe she saw me

really angry (which they tell me is a savage sight) ,

she subsided . But she had a thousand fooleries . In

fazziolo her , the dress of the lower orders, she looked ! beautiful ; but, alas she longed for a hat and feathers ; and all I could say or do (and I said much) could not prevent this travestie . I put the first into the fire ; but I got tired of burning them before she did of buying

fi ur e — them , so that she made herself a g for they did not at all become her .

Then she would have her gowns with a ta il like a lady , forsooth ; nothing would serve her but

’ ’ oua cua l abita colla c , or , (that is the Venetian for

‘ ’ la cola, the tail or train ,) and as her cursed pro n n iation u c of the word made me laugh , there was an end of all controversy, and she dragged this diabolical tail after her every where .

‘ In the mean time, she beat the women , and stopped my letters . I found her one day pondering over one . She used to try to find out by their shape whether they were feminine or no ; and she used to lament her ignorance , and actually studied her alphabet , on purpose (as she declared) to open all letters ad dressed to me and read their contents . I must not omit to do justice to her housekeep ing qualities . After she came into my house as donna

’ the ex en ses di governo , , p were reduced to less than

M ARGUERITA COGNI .

’ seeing the temporale . I am told by the servants that she had only been prevented from coming i n a boat to look after me , by the refusal of all the gondoliers of the canal to put out into the harbour in such a moment ; and that then she sat down on the steps in all the thickest of the squall , and would neither be removed

a nor comforted . Her joy at seeing me ag in was mo der atel ymixed with ferocity , and gave me the idea of a tigress over her recovered cubs .

But her reign drew near a close . She became quite ungovernable some months after, and a concur

t rence of complain s , some true , and many false ’ — a favourite has no friends dete r mined me to part

with her . I told her quietly that she must return home (she had acquired a sufficient provision for herself

&c . u and mother, in my service) , and she ref sed to quit

the house . I was firm , and she went threatening

knives and revenge . I told her that I had seen knives

drawn before her time , and that if she chose to begin ,

there was a knife , and fork also , at her service on the

table , and that intimidation would not do . The next

day, while I was at dinner, she walked in (having broken open a glass door that led from the hall below

to the staircase , by way of prologue) , and advancing

straight up to the table, snatched the knife from my

hand , cutting me slightly in the thumb in the operation .

r she Whethe meant to use this against herself or me , M G O AR UERITA G GNI .

I know not— probably against neither—but Fletcher

her . seized by the arms, and disarmed her I then

called my boatmen , and desired them to get the gondola

her ready , and conduct to her own house again , seeing

carefully that she did herself no mischief by the way .

She seemed quite quiet, and walked down stairs . I

resumed my dinner .

r We heard a great no se, and went out, and met h t e . them on staircase , carrying her up stairs She had

thrown herself into the canal . That she intended to w destroy herself, I do not believe ; but hen we consider

’ the fear women and m en who can t swim have of deep

or even of shallow water, (and the Venetians in parti

cular , though they live on the waves ,) and that it was

al so n ight, and dark , and very cold , it shews that she

had a devilish , spirit of some sort within her . They f had got her out without much di ficulty or damage ,

n the excepti g salt water she had swallowed , and the

h ad wetting she undergone .

r efix I foresaw her intention to herself, and sent

i r e for a surgeon , nquiring how many hours it would

quire to restore her from her agitation ; and h e named

the . time I then said , I give you that time, and more

if you require it ; but at the expiration of this prescribed

’

if she I i . period , does not leave the house , w ll

All my people were consternated . They had

always been frightened at her, and were now para 3 n been used to savage women , and knew their ways .

I forgot to mention that she was very devout, and would cross herself if she heard the prayer - time strike .

I had her sent home quietly after her recovery , and never saw her since, except twice at the opera, at a distance , amongst the audience . She made many attempts

s. to return , but no more violent one And this is the

M Co n i . story of arguerita g , as far as it relates to me

’ M oore s Life of B yron .

VERONA .

d elighted with Verona and , in his opinion , the city deserves all the eulogies with which Scaliger has

’ ‘ honoured it . The situation , he says , is the most delightful I ever saw ; it is so sweetly mixed with rising l ground and valleys, so elegantly p anted with trees, on

which Bacchus seems riding, as it were , in triumph

every autumn , for the vines reach from tree to tree .

Here, of all places that I have seen in Italy , would I fix

’ ’

C nder Ita l . my residence . o s y To the above list of distinguished Veronesi are to be

a dded the emperors Vespasian , Titus , and Domitian ;

an d it is believed , that during the reign of the latter ,

about the end of the first century , the Amphitheatre of

Veron a was erected . The ruins of this fine structure

a r e t so well preserved , tha it supplies the deficiencies of C N the olosseum and the Amphitheatre at ismes, and enables the architec t and antiquari an perfectly to under

of . stand the structure buildings of this class It is, with the exception of the former, the largest amphi theatre of which the dimensions can be traced : as it

w - now remains , it is capable of holding t enty three thou

ou - sand persons forty three tiers of seats , which sur round the arena . From the upper seats , this space , though an oval of two hundred and eighteen feet by

- one hundred and twenty nine , appears much less than it really measures . A modern theatre has been fitted

the up in the arena, and seats facing the proscenium VERONA .

off. have been barricaded Here , occasionally , there are

—a dramatic pieces performed , practice introduced by

the French , who , when they were at Verona , repaired

and cleared out the arena . As early as the thirteenth century its preservation had become an object of public attention, when it was used as a place of judicial combats ; and in the fifteenth , penalties were decr eed against wilful dilapidations . When the Emperor Joseph

- fi ht visited Verona, a bull g was , in honour of the event, given in the Amphitheatre ; and , upon another occa — sion , it was made the scene of prostration mind and — body of an immense concourse assembled to meet the

Pope , who , on his passage through Verona, received there the homage of the multitude .

The Veronesi accuse the French , as modern Huns

the or Lombards, of having built the wooden theatre in arena , where its gladiatorial glories have been dege n er ated to farces and pantomimes ; but there is nothing to regret in this change , since these exhibitions are

. 1 822 infinitely less savage and more amusing In , the

’ G oldon i s author saw a comedy of performed there . The approach to the Amphitheatre is through a miserable old clothes shop ; and other external parts of the building are appropriated as shops for shoemakers

- an d . cabinet makers In one of these, geological speci

f th e mens were of ered for sale , and among them , fish and plants found embedded in the shale of M onte Bolca

3 r VERONA .

— a mountain about fifteen miles from Verona, cele

br ated among naturalists for its richness in the quantity

and variety of its fossil productions . i t Besides the amph heatre, there are other Roman

n ot . antiquities , but of much interest Of the remains of the middle ages , the tomb of Pepin , the father of C harlemagne , is pointed out to travellers ; but the most strikingly picturesque objects in Verona are the

m Scali er s to bs of the g , sovereign princes of Verona , which stand in a small enclosure in one of the public streets . They have in part been made known in

’

Pr oht s . England by M r . drawings They are six in number , though only three are very remarkable for their Gothic architecture . All are distinguished by the armorial bearings of the family— the eagle and scaling

: ladder . Forsyth says The tombs of the Scaliger — princes are models of the most elegant Gothic light,

n open, spiry , full of statues caged in their fretted iches

e t t y , slender as hey seem , these tombs have stood

fi ve entire for hundred years, in a public street, the

’ frequent theatre of sedition . But they certainly are not models of the most elegant Gothic or if they

u are , our beautif l Gothic crosses are not to be judged i by the same principles of arch tecture or taste . Their structure gives no promise of their durability, and the ornaments and arrangements are as fantastical as they are exuberant .

Verona , we feel at home . The city has been peopled ” - by the master spirit of our country , with beings ,

his which , if they had no existence but from imagina tion , can never die Here Shakespeare laid some of his

Vi i scenes ; and the s tors who have fancy , can restore to its streets the brawlers of the rival families of the Capelli and M ontecchi the Anglicised names are better— the Capulets and the M ontagues—for with M these we associate Romeo and ercutio, and the gentle

con fidin a — and g J liet one so young , so beautiful , and so fearless in her first and only love, that she dared become a living inhabitant of the tomb , and through

s this murky state of emblant death , seek her only happiness on earth — the society of him to whom alone her heart was devoted . This is the source of an Englishman’ s feelings at Verona —that her tale of deep interest is immortalised in the language of his country .

B ELLAG I O ,

L K E C M A O F O O .

r a wn b H Gastenea u D y . .

I w — R e have seen the finest parts of S itzerland the hin ,

the R an d the an d hone , Swiss Italian lakes ; for the ” w I ou the - beauties of hich refer y to Guide Book .

L e tte to M oo e L B n e o o . r r , if f yr

THE beautiful scene r y of the Lake of Como has

rendered it, to travellers in pursuit of the picturesque, one of the most attractive of the northern lakes of Italy .

m Villas on its banks and headlands , com anding the most delicious views, are in their turn objects which give a sparkling brilliancy to the deep - shored character of this lake , far more than that of any other which is

e Le on tin e . skirt d by the p , or Rhetian Alps The views on the Lago M aggiore are more extensive ; but the

. shores of the Lago di Como are the abrupt bases of mountains , which rise from its waters richly clothed in

- forests of walnut and chestnut trees . Surrounding the

- spots of table land upon which its villas , villages, and

- cottages rest , are gardens, orchards, and olive grounds .

3 x l s A ps are seen , some of them ri ing to the height of

seven or eight thousand feet .

Com as ues The q , as the borderers of the lake are i called , emigrate from their beaut ful country when

boys ; and a few, who , after many years of struggle

ri r e in the world , of p vation and difficulty , have

alised by prudence and economy a little fortune , return to spend the winter of their life amidst the scenes of their childhood . England , France , and America are the coun tries to which they emigrate . They are the itinerant ven

- ders of plaster casts , looking glasses , and barometers . ” Cadden abia Stay with us, said the innkeeper of , a little village opposite Bellagio , one who had been himself a barometer- maker in London Stay till festa

see (Sunday) , and you will many rich old men come down from the villages to my house , for the chance of seeing English travellers, and the pleasure of talking of i their former res dence in England . The extensive emi

r ation Com as ues g of the q , leaving only a few old men

s n who have returned , and numerou childre too young l to go forth , gives a pecu iar character to the population , which I remarked to our innkeeper . I understand ” h e you , said ; we have plenty of young priests .

THE SIM PLON . bad name from report ; and the walls and windows of the inns from Geneva to M ilan were scrawled with doggerel cautions to avoid her house . How far she deserved it, let the following story tell . The author, having left Domo d ’ Ossola for Brigg too late in the day to proceed beyond the village of Simplon that night , entered the inn with no very great expectation of good f accommodation . The landlady , rather a blu f person age , met him , and he was shewn into a comfortable

—at chamber . She asked at what price he would dine h ! t ree , or four , or five francs He said , I am very hungry and fatigued ; send me a good dinner . It was t excellent . Delicious soup ; rout, chicken , game , fine

al et fruit from the It ian side, good wine, and many

ceter as . In n , were served the morning, he fou d four fran cs only were charged in the bill . He records the comfort and civility he received there , in j ustice to one e who had bee n misr presented . The situation of the village is most favourable for rest , and for the aid of travellers who have been over taken by storms, and exposed to their terrors and dangers . A story is related of the situation of a party

Tur r eau under General , when engaged in the survey of

n the line of road . He was on his retur , with some of

’ his officers,from B r igg to his head - quarters at Domo

’ d Ossola , the snow fell abundantly , and violent and freezing gusts from the north- west raised the snow i n THE SIM PLON

d whirlwinds , and so fille the atmosphere as almost to

ff . su ocate the travellers The general fell three times, in spite of the aid he received from those about him . At length some peasants, who had been hired to assist them , declared it to be absolutely necessary that they should

find their way back to Brigg, rather than attempt to proceed . But two of the engineers , who were a few

th e obscu feet only in advance , could not , in storm and

i n r ty, be made acquai ted with the order for return . They soon afterwards found that the rest of the party were not

e following ; and having waited a short time , they b came

nl alarmed, and felt that their o y chance of safety was

m to proceed . Fortunately two peasants were with the or they must inevitably have perished . After six hours struggle, they had the good fortune to arrive in safety , d though drea fully exhausted , at the village of Simplon , a distance of not more than two leagues from where they had parted from their companions . The snow to which they were exposed was so hard , and in

such fine grains, having no adherence to each other , that when the travellers fell , which was very often ,

they disappeared in it , and their situation was only dis tin guish ed by the movement communicated in their

struggles to the surface , whence they were extricated i by their companions . On arr ving at the village of

Simplon , they found that the snow had , like fine dust,

insinuated itself into every interstice of their clothes,

3 L insensible of this till the end of their perilous journey . The early history of th e pass of the Simplon is in

u t volved in much obsc rity , and nothing cer ain is known even of the origin of its n ame . Its future importance N will be referred to apoleon only , under whose orders the present road was constructed . r The new oute of the Simplon was , in its intention and execution , a military work . It was determined M w upon immediately after the battle of arengo , hilst ffi the di culties ofthe passage of the Great St . Bernard , and the almost fatal check of Fort Bard were fresh in the recollection of Napoleon . It was executed between

1 800 1 807 M . Cear d and , under the direction of , the

- in - engineer chief of the department of Leman , by whom

on the route was carried and completed . It now ex hibits one of the most extraordinary and daring achieve ments of man .

H M O C A UNI .

mighty sources of the sublime , that burst from him , with all the Splendour and glory with which his genius

M r an d h could enrich them , in his anf ed , in the t ird canto of Childe Harold .

Above us are the Alps

l N w al The pa aces of ature , hose vast w ls

H in ave pinnacled clouds their snowyscalps , And throned Eternity in icyhalls

m w an d Of cold subli ity, here forms falls The avalanche— the thunderbolt of snow

the et All that expands spirit, y appals ,

a m m s G ther around these su it , as to show

E et m an . How arthmay pierce to Heaven , y leave vain below

C u hamo ni , from the immense number of its English

th e ton visitors, appears to be a goal next in , among

’ - Tair r ez s Tooley street travellers, to Paris ; and at Victor o C excellent inn , the H tel de Londres , at hamouni , it is

m u a co mon question , upon hearing so distinctly the so nd of Bow bells in half the words uttered — what can

’ ! N im o te have brought these people here p r , they are there ; and it is a peculiar characteristic of the En glish, that in the books kept for the insertion of the l names of travellers, nine out of ten of them are p ain

M r . M r . Smith or Brown whilst the German , Italian , or French names generally have the addition of Graf, M s C . arche e , or omte H M O C A UNI .

Lord Byron was struck with . an exclamation of one

S m i ths of the , when he says in his journal , I remember C M at hamouni , in the very eyes of ont Blanc , hearing

m E n lish h er a woman exclai in g to party , Did you ever

r ur a l — see any thing more as if it was Highgate , or !’ — Hampstead , or Brompton . Rural quotha, rocks ,

r an d pines , to rents , glaciers , clouds , summits of eternal snow far above them— and rural !’ But it will be

’ own quite fair to relate , that even in Lord Byron s

his party, faithful valet Fletcher , one who had had twenty years of observation with him amidst the scenes and among the objects whence his master drew his in spirations , yet never learnt to view them with a very

d a refined emotion ; for one y, in the Acropolis , when accompanying Lord Byron , who was observing atten l ! tive y the metopes of the Parthenon , he said , La

- a r what mantel pieces they would m ke , my Lo d But the great concourse of visitors to Chamouni may be accounted for by the fact , that the facilities of travelling are now so great, that with the sacrifice of a little more time it is of easy attainment the accommodations are as good as those in England ; C and the point arrived at , hamouni is not only the nearest to the great chain of the Alps, but it is in im m ediafe proximity with the loftiest of the range ; f and no spot a fords , within the accomplishment of a ’ h day s ramble, any excursions whic will conduct to

3 M u Lyons or by Dole, conduct to Geneva in fo r days ; and

th e - now, by improvements of the mountain road to C hamouni , the journey from Geneva is made , in a light l carriage , in a day . There are three inns in the vil age , — all good the Hotel de Londres exce llent . Here every

English comfort may be had , and all the regulations for the hire of mules and guides are so made , as to insure the greatest civility and attention , at such fixed h charges that all disputes are avoided . Then the igh spirits and good health which are drawn in with the mountain air, the excitement of adventure , and sound

C im sleep after fatigue , leave the visitor to hamouni pressed with the conviction , that the recollections of his visit there are among the most delightful in his memory .

CASTLE OF CHILLON .

THE C a C h teau of hillon , says Lord Byron , in a “ C note is situated between larens and Villeneuve ,

which last is at one extremity of the Lak e of Geneva ;

on its left are the entrances of the Rhone , and opposite M are the heights of eillerie , and the range of Alps

o r . . N n above B ve et and St Gingo ear it , on a hill behi d , is a torrent ; below it, washing its walls , the lake has been fathomed to the depth of eight hundred feet

: (French measure) within it are a range of dungeons,

th e r in which early reformers, and subsequently p isoners of state , were confined . Across one of the vaults is a beam , black with age, on which we were informed that the condemned were formerly executed . In the s cells are seven pillar , or rather eight, one being half merged in the wall in some of these are rings for the fetters and the fettered ; in the pavement, the steps of — B on n iv ar d have left their traces h e was confined here ” several years .

Sim on d d , in his Journal of a Tour in Switzerlan , gives , in his amusing and peculiar way, a sketch of

Chillon . He says C C hillon , a mile and half beyond larens , is a

dull , heavy castle , built on a flat rock into the water, . and almost touching the shore , with which a short wooden bridge , or platform , connects it . It is gar r ison ed by a few lazy soldiers , one of whom , acting as cicerone , led us to the celebrated dungeon , said to be L OF H LLO CAST E C I N .

C under the level of the lake . omparing the level of the

’ loo - hole a tes wher e a tives wee p gr , c p p, above the water s edge from the outside , and above the rocky floor inside , I remained satisfied the latter was something above the former ; particularly when I observed a hollow place full of water , which must come from the lake , and would rise above the floor of the dungeon if it really was lower than the level of the lake . It grieves me to contradict poets, or picturesque and sentimental travellers ; but really the dungeon of Chillon is not under water ; and , besides, is absolutely a comfortable l sort of dungeon enough , ful forty feet long , fifteen or twenty feet wide , and fifteen feet high, with several n ad arrow slits into the thick wall above reach , but mitting air and light, and even some rays of the sun . A row of stone pillars divides it ; to one of them an iron ring is fastened , and looks much rubbed ; it is marked by tradi tion as the place where poor Bonni vard was chained for six long years ; yet another tradition points out the track worn into the rocky floor by his walking to and fro all that time : which * M of them is to be believed , I do not know . any

’ S m on s en e ness to oe s w w in n o c e for him he e i d t d r p t ill r dit r , ” r n In the son e of Ch on thes ac co n ts fo the error is his ow . Pri r ill e u ’ ar e n ot con a cto . In the ear a of B on n ivar d s ca t v t he tr di ry lyp rt p i i y, a s ys, he ch a n e us e ach to a co um n s on e T y i d l t , W ” e c ould n ot m ove a si ngle pace .

3 N CASTLE OF CHILLON .

travellers , mostly English , have engraved their names

’ on this pillar, and among them Lord Byron s is conspicuous . Another dungeon , not more than ten feet square , opens into the large one , by a breach in the wall made by a prisoner , who attempted making t e his escape , but could not get far h r than the outer — dungeon was retaken , and ultimately put to death

m ! here , after a long confine ent He must have been a man of education , j udging from his drawings on the

’ wall, much in the style of Raphael s age . These are horrors for poets , which may , I trust, make up for those of which I have attempted to deprive them . One whiskered cicerone could not give us any more partien

u lars abo t the tragical end of the prisoner, nor say who he was , nor tell his name ; but when we inquired about th e M onsi eur i l a m i lle a ns ! time , he boldly said , , y

Another soldier, who held the candle , observing our look of incredulity, corrected his companion , and said , — Ha ! gue non : Il y a cing cen t a ns therefore the story is not quite clear yet for historians , although for

. a poets it may do On the wall outside the ch teau ,

B ut afte the dea h of his othe s r t br r ,

' A n of chan e cam e o er m fa e ki d g y t ,

M yk eeper grew com passionate . M ybrok en chai n

W th n s un fasten e e m a n i li k d did r i , An d it w as libertyto stride

on m ce f om s e to s Al g y ll r id ide .

G E N E VA .

r w b Har din r om Ske h b Pa e a n . . a tc W. . D yJ D g ,f y g

From Brussels the noble traveller pursued his course along

the R — a he has w hine , line of road which stre ed over

w the and n ith all riches of poesy; , arrivi g at Geneva , ” i - took up h s abode at the well known hotel Secheron .

’ M oore s Lif e of B yron .

O D Y ON L R B R , having passed through the scenes C ” which inspired the third canto of hilde Harold ,

er reached Geneva in June 1 81 6 . Aft visiting all the places of interest around the lake , he set out on the 1 7 M r . th of September, with Hobhouse , for the Ober

n B i s la d er no s. This excursion tored his mind with impressions which subsequently burst from him in those passages of unrivalled splendour which make his M an ” ” fred and fourth can to of Childe Harold so pre eminent . A most interesting account of this excursion is preserved in a fragment of his journal kept during

’ his M . absence, and published in oore s Life of Byron It concludes with the following melancholy passage In the weather for this tour (of thirteen days) I have 3 o GENEVA .

— r been very fortunate fortunate in my companion (M .

fortunate in our prospects , and exempt from even the little petty accidents and delays which often render journeys in a less wild country disappointing . I was a disposed to be pleased . I am a lover of n ture and an

e admirer of beauty . I can b ar fatigue and welcome i privation , and have seen some of the noblest v ews in — the world . But in all this the recollection of bitter ness , and more especially of recent and more home desolation, which must accompany me through life , have preyed upon me here ; and neither the music of h the shepherd , the cras ing of the avalanche , nor the torrent , the mountain, the glacier , the forest , nor the cloud , have for one moment lightened the weight upon my heart, nor enabled me to lose my own wretched identity in the majesty, the power, and the glory ,

’ 7 u . aro nd , above, and beneath me After his return to u Geneva , he remained there ntil he left it finally for

Italy on the 9th of October .

If, in the midst of the varied scenes of the Bernese l ’ Alps, Lord Byron cou d not forget his heart s desola

was tion , he not likely to part with his remembrance of it at Geneva—for there is little diversity in a residence here . The scenes around it are known to be of singular beauty ; and if such could m inister to a mind dis

s a . s ea ed , they would restore it to pe ce Excur ions on C M the lake and to hamouni , and the tour of ont Blanc ,

THE RI GHT HON OURABLE

L A D Y N O E L B Y R O N .

Fr om an Or i ina l M i nia tur e b wt n W. . Ne o . g , y J

W FE A I would be the salvation of me , says Lord in 1 814 Byron , a journal kept by him in ; but he was either so unprepared and unfit to enjoy the happi

i life ' or his ness of marr ed , so unfortunate in choice , that his nuptials were productive of little beside dis appointment and misery . The respect and admiration in which he held the character and accomplishments

' k of M iss M illban e h e often recorded . One instance in his journal is Yesterday a very pretty letter from

w . Anabella , which I ans ered What an odd situation and friendship is ours ! without one spark of love on either side , and produced by circumstances which in

s general lead to coldnes on one side , and aversion on the other . She is a very superior woman , and very t lit le spoiled , which is strange in an heiress ; a girl of twenty ; a peeress, that is to be , in her own right ; an

sa va nte h as only child , and a , who always had her own — — way . She is a poetess a mathematician a meta

an d physician ; yet, with all , very kind, generous, and

3 P up and marry . I have been and am in tolerable love ; ” but of that hereafter as it may b e . The desire of many of Byron ’ s friends to see him f weaned , by an honourable a fection, from the errant

n course of life which he had been lo g pursuing, led them to hail the turn of his thoughts seriously to mar ” e M ri ge, that is, says oore , as seriously as his thoughts were ever capable of being turned . It was chiefly by the advice and intervention of Lady M el bourne that he became a suitor for the hand of a

M M illban k e . his relation of that lady , iss Though proposal was not then accepted , every assurance of friendship and regard accompanied the refusal a wish was even expressed that they should continue to write to each other ; and a correspondence in consequence somewhat singular between two young persons of dif fer en t sexes, insomuch as love was not the subject of it — ensued between them . We have seen how highly Lord Byron estimated as well the virtues as the aecom plishm en ts of the young lady ; but it i s ev i dent that on neither side , at this period , was love either felt or pos ” sessed . And it may be added , that those who regarded the happiness of either, deeply regretted that love was

L O B . THE RIGHT HON . ADY N EL YRON

i h a their early separat on , of which Lord Byron s again

i n and again reiterated, in poetry and in prose , his g o

rance of the cause ; whilst Lady Byron , in the letter c M ’ of omment upon oore s biography of her lord , de

was clares, without naming it , that it so strong and

a insurmount ble , as to justify her resolution never to

see him again .

’

M r . M i . 208 oore s remarks upon this separat on , p ,

n fi n ess . u t vol . iii , only go to shew , that that of temper , which is a source of domestic misery, is the punishment of those who have so little understood each other before ”— m . marriage ; but the cause the cause , is a ystery

They parted , says Lord Byron , in good temper and kind h ness . W at, then , could have occurred so sudden and ! so fatal Certainly not the bickerings of an ill- sorted marriage ; the last words of the parting wife to the husband being those of the most playful affection ; whilst the language of the deserted husband towards the wife ,

in was a strain, as the world knows , of the tenderest ’ 2 t eulogy . Byron , after the separa ion , writes of her with the deepest feelings of respect . In a letter to

M . 204 . . : oore , p , vol iii , he says There never was a better , or even a brighter, a kinder, or a more amiable or agreeable being than Lady B . I never had , nor can have , any reproach to make her, while with me .

Where there is blame, it belongs to myself ; and if I ”

s . cannot redeem , I mu t bear it M oore says : At THE R GH HON. L Y O L BYR I T AD N E ON .

the time of their parting, there could have been no very deep sense of injury on either side . If there be l any truth , however, in the princip e , that they never

’ the pardon who have done wrong, Lord Byron , who d was to the last disposed to reconciliation, prove , so

his far at least, conscience to have been unhaunted by ” n any very disturbi g consciousness of aggression . Yet she parted from him with a feeling of resentment so l strong, from a cause so irresistib e , that her declared

n alter ative was , placing him in a madhouse, or parting with him for ever . the What cause of separation was, would in private life have been the affair of no one but the angry and

’ divided parties . Lord Byron s character, however, as an

’ author is a part of his country s fame, and united to its history by ties which can end only with its language ; and

his as much of that which sprung from mind , and has immortalised his memory , evidently arose from his dis

of t appointment married happiness, it canno be said to

’ ’ be no affair of the world s . Lady Byron s conduct to

M s her lord , like that of the wife of ilton or Socrate , can never be separated fr om his biogra phy ; for noto r ietyis the price which every woman pays who marries a distinguished man whatever she does to increase or blight his happiness to whom she is united , is as impe

r ishabl . yrecorded as his reputation The world , there

. u fore , will care and trouble itself about them The ca se

3 ! Lord Byron has shewn , in his letters and his works ,

n in the humour of sulkiness , of anger , or of tender ess, that when he had lost every chance of that happiness which bearance and forbearance might have secured to him , he learned its value too late, and felt most bitterly its privation whilst bearing about with him a broken spirit . He appears never to have entirely lost sight of the hope of reconciliation with Lady Byr on ; and his last thought —his latest sigh— were for those — whose names he then faintly murm ured his wife and i h s child .

In praise of Lady Byron let it be told , that the

s retirement she has persevered in since the eparation , whether in grief or in anger, has been silent . Her time has been affectionately devoted to the ca re and

education of her daughter ; and it is said that she some times recalls the memory of her illustrious but wayward b husband , with feelings softened ytime and death to a tenderer tone than her wounded pride would allow her l d to communicate to him when iving , or her elicacy will permit her to blazon over his grave .

I r mm wd by W e .

A ID A

(FR OM THE

Ari a ! S ul a (La ugh t er of m y h ous e a nd h e ar t h

'

m um n e ” Ja m .m d f ozd bu GH IJ W . z omm . m , M w , y y M

ADA .

’ An d print on thy soft cheek a parent s kiss ,

e This, it should s em, was not reserved for me

was in m — Yet this ynature as it is ,

I et m s. know not what is there , y so ething like to thi H Yet , though dull ate as dutyshould be taught , I know that thou wilt love me ; though m ynam e

S Should be shut from thee , as a pell still fraught

W t —an d m ith desola ion , a broken clai

’ the w us m Though grave closed bet een , twere the sa e ; I know that thou wilt love me ; though to drain

M m an aim yblood fro out thy being were ,

an — in And attainment , all would be vain,

’ u t Still thou wo ld s love me , still that more than life retain .

- in The child of love , though born bitterness ,

in th An d nurtured convulsion . Of ysire — the m an d . These were ele ents , thine no less

et — th fir e As y such are around thee , but y h i m t . Shall be more te pered , and yhope far h gher w th m ! ' S eet be ycradled slu bers O er the sea,

An d m I now fro the mountains where respire ,

w I w f o Fain ould a t such blessing up n thee , w I m ’ As , ith a sigh, dee thou might st have been to me

Childe Ha old r , canto iii .

IN M . 5 1 8 16 a letter to oore , dated Jan , , Lord Byron says The little gi rl was born on the l oth of

December last . Her name is Augusta Ada . This interesting child of an unhappy marriage is now grown to womanhood , endowed with those ener ADA . gies of character which mark the stock she sprung ” from , and adorned with high attainments, but softened to that gentleness, which a careful education , and the con stant and affectionate guardianship of her accomplished mother , have induced . She is expected to take her sta 1 83 3 tion in society this season , , or, as it is fashionably

“ ” com e out . called , Though tall and handsome in person , and quiet and elegant in manners , she will find herself h an object ofinterest, beyond w at it is possible for charac

u ter or accomplishments to create , as the da ghter of the most extraordinary man of our day , and the being with whose happiness his brightest hopes inseparably existed . She appears to have been almost the only living thing to

' which Lord Byron was invariable in the direction of his intense affection . She was never mentioned by him but in terms which shew that his separation from her was the chief bitterness of his life . Yet, except indirectly , intelligence concerning her rarely reached him . Four

s I year after they parted , he says, have never heard

M a . any thing of Ada , the little Electra of my ycen e — it If this be true, the cruelty must have been studied cannot be taken literally .

is It is to be hoped , that she proud of the immortal distinction of her name that she has been taught to look

’ only on the bright side of her father s character, and to f give that a fection to his memory , the hope of which w as almost the only cheering ray that latterly shone upon him in his exile .