©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 250

Behind the Scenes

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Chris, Serah, Donaldson, Bob, Lisa and Pam, OUR READERS who went out of their way to help me. And Many thanks to the travellers who used the finally, once again a gros bisou to Christine, last edition and wrote to us with helpful who supported me. hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes. Berna Collier, Bernard Hayes, Blake Anna Kaminski Everson, Caspar Dama, Charlie Lynn, Diarne Kreltszheim, Fred Lazell, Haya Zommer, Joanna I would like to thank Tasmin for entrusting me O’Shea, Lynne Cannell, Manuel Hetzel, Markus with research of the most fascinating country Eifried, Martijn Maandag, Rebecca Nava, Tim I’ve ever covered; my fellow scribes, Lindsay Bridgeman, Zoltan & Anna Szabo and JB; and everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular, Nick and Jared – my Moresby angels; Paul Barker for his incompar­ AUTHOR THANKS able knowledge of PNG; Chris and Susan for the Sepik trip; Modakula, Warren, Sharon, Lindsay Brown Cathy, Jim and Delsie in ; Gum in Kiri- Thanks to Jenny Wal at PNG Highlands Adven- wina; Kayleigh at Nuli Sapi; Kipa and Gregory tures and to Raphael (Siwi) Kogun for all his en route from to ; my rescuer in expertise and insights into PNG, and for stay- ; Nicolas for sharing his knowledge ing cool and saving the day near . Thanks and books; and Joe the driver in Moresby. also to Mawi Maine, Chris Kogun and Phillip Gonapa. Thomas Tayape in Tari, Pym and Eliz- abeth Mamindi in Mt Hagan, Jackson Pinia in ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS , Shaun and Shannon at Nusa Island Retreat and Tony Pukuntap in . Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Thanks to fellow writers Anna Kaminski and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Jean-Bernard Carillet, and to Jenny Fegent. World Map of the Köppen‑Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Jean-Bernard Carillet Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Heaps of thanks to the editorial and cartogra- Cover photograph: Local fishers in a traditional phy teams at Lonely Planet for their great work. outrigger canoe above a coral garden, Coordinating author Lindsay Brown deserves Bay, Papua . David Doubilet/ a grand merci for his support, as does desti- National Geographic Creative © nation editor Tasmin Waby for her guidance. In the Sols, a special mention goes to Kerrie, 251 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

THIS BOOK previous edition was written by Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Regis St Louis, Jean-Bernard Assisting Editor Pete Crut- This 10th edition of Lonely Carillet and Dean Starnes. tenden This book was commissionied Planet’s Assisting Cartographers & Solomon Islands guide was in London and produced in Hunor Csutoros, Rachel researched and written by Melbourne by the following: Imeson Lindsay Brown, Jean-Bernard Tasmin Destination Editor Cover Research Naomi Parker Carillet and Anna Kaminski. Waby Anita Banh, David Tim Flannery wrote the Thanks to Coordinating Editor Monique Carroll, Laura Crawford, Grace Environment chapter, which Perrin Dobell, Andi Jones, Kate was updated this edition by Product Editor Susan Pat- Mathews, Karyn Noble, Sarah Anna Kaminski. Peter Fitz­ erson Reid, Alison Ridgway, Ellie Simons wrote the Kokoda Diana Simpson, Angela Tinson Story chapter, updated this Senior Cartographer Von Holdt edition by Lindsay Brown. The ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 252

Index

A Solomon Islands 205 Goldie’s bird of Buin 175 Abelam villages 132 tribal 12, 81, 139, 143, 145, paradise 77 Buka 172-5 accommodation 230-31, 228, 12, 14 megapodes 189 172-5 205, see also village wickerwork dance tiger parrots 222 Bulolo 90-2 stays, individual regions costumes 142 birds of paradise 11, 77, 220, bus travel 207 budget 205, 231 Asaro 106 223, 11 business hours camping 231 asylum seekers 211 birdwatching 11, 28 PNG 17, 234-5 children, with 231 ATMs 116 Solomon Islands 206 language 246 PNG 234 Kimbe Bay 162 butterflies 98 village stays 62, 68, 74, Solomon Islands 206 Mt Hagen 114 Bwetalu Village 81 81, 138, 169, 231 Attenborough, David 122 47 websites 230 Auki 200-3, 202 Sepik River 137 with children 231 Australian Immigration Tari 122 C camping 231 activities 28-9, see also Detention Centre 211 Tetepare Island 194 cannibalism 163 individual activities, Autonomous Region of Tufi 68 individual regions canoeing & kayaking Bougainville 171-5 Varirata National Park Aibom 145-6 culture 171, 172 47, 60 166 air travel geography 172 Wagawaga 74-3 Morovo Lagoon 191 PNG 239-40, 241 history 171-2, 173, 216, Wagu Lagoon 145 Tufi 67, 68 Solomon Islands 206-7 217, 219 Bisi Falls 121 Wagawaga 73 airlines 239, 241 Black Cat Trail 84, 90, 91 car travel airports 239 PNG 242-3 B Black Jack bomber (B17) 67 Alexishafen 98 Baeroko Bay 194 Blackwater Lakes 137, 143 Solomon Islands 207 Alotau 69-73, 70 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 98 boat travel cargo cults 216, 218, 226 Amboin 146 Bamugl 111 disasters 242 cassowaries 221-3 Ambunti 140-1 bargaining 236 PNG 28, 240-2 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Ambunti Crocodile Barracuda Point 92 Solomon Islands 207 Festival 21, 140 caves 80, 111, 121, 200 bats 92, 111 tours 69 Angoram 100, 145 cell phones Battle of Milne Bay 73 Bogia 100 animals 220, 222, see also PNG 16, 237 Bauwame 68 Bol 170 individual species Solomon Islands 206 beaches Bolubolu 78 animism 227-8 cemeteries Honiara area 189-90 Boluminski Highway 19, Apangai 132 Bagail Cemetery 164 Kaibola Beach 80, 25 170, 170-1 Arawa 175 Bita Paka War Cemetery Machine Gun Beach 92 Bomana War Cemetery art galleries, see museums 59, 25 152 & galleries Port Moresby 47 Bonegi 190 Chinese Cemetery 156 artefacts 232 Wawela 80 books 79, 80, 103, 210 War Cemetery 84 arts & crafts 228 Wewak 125 history 212 Peter ToRot 157 banana leaf money 80 Yuo Island 128 Kokoda Track 224 Central Province 63-6, 64-5 Bowies Art Centre 143 Beehives 160 wildlife 221 accommodation 62 carving 81, 139, 141 Bellona 199 border crossings 240 climate 62 Malagan 170 bicycle travel 170 Bougainville 175 geography 63 Sepik region 139, 143 biodiversity 220 breastfeeding 231 highlights 64-5, 64-5 birds 220, 221-3 budget history 63 birds of paradise 11, 77, travel seasons 62 Map Pages 000 220, 223, 11 PNG 17, 231, 233 Chambri Lakes 145-6 Photo Pages 000 cassowaries 221-3 Solomon Islands 205, 206 children, travel with 231 253 Chimbut 146 darts 108 E Milne Bay Canoe & Chimondo 145 Dawadawa River 73 Earhart, Amelia 216 Kundu Festival 70 Choiseul 199 death rites 69, 90, 163 East Cape 73 Morobe Show 85 Christianity 205, 227-8 d’Entrecasteaux, Antoine East Province Mt Hagen Show 9, Christmas Island 173 76 151-61 22, 114 churches & cathedrals D’Entrecasteaux Islands 125, Sepik River Festival 143

Holy Cross Catholic 76-8 128-32 Warwagira & Mask INDEX Cathedral 177 detention centres 211 Eastern Highlands Province Festival 152 Kaminabit 143 disabilities, travellers 103-10 yam harvest Kwato Island 75 with 237 celebrations 132 Eel Gardens 92  C–G Port Moresby 47 disasters 242 Ela Beach 47 films 98, 103, 122, 210, Island 75 Discovery Bay 73-4 elections 210 215, 228 climate 16, 21, 22, 16, see diving & snorkelling 9, 20, electricity Finschhafen 88 also individual regions 28-30, 31-4, 32, 8, 9, PNG 232 fishing 29 climate change 239 see also underwater Solomon Islands 207 Alotau 70 Conflict islands 77 wrecks embassies & consulates Tufi 67, 68 conservation centres 162 B17 Black Jack bomber 133 67 PNG 232 consulates, see embassies FitzSimons, Peter 224 & consulates Bonegi 190 Solomon Islands 205-6 Flannery, Tim 210, 220 costs D’Entrecasteaux Islands emergencies flying foxes 92, 111 PNG 17, 231, 233 77 PNG 237 Flynn, Errol 215 Solomon Islands 205, Ghizo 34 Solomon Islands 205 206 Gizo 196 Enga Province 118 food 232-3 credit cards Guadalcanal 33 environment budget 206, 233 PNG 234 Hansa Bay 100 PNG 220-3 language 246, 248, 249 Solomon Islands 206 Honiara 177 Solomon Islands 205-7 yams 79, 132 cricket 79 Jais Aben 98 environmental issues 222 crocodile cults 139, 142 99 deforestation 217 G crocodiles 194 Kavieng 33, 165-6 LNG natural gas project Gagidu Station 88 cruises 241 Kimbe Bay 20, 33, 121, 211 galleries, see museums & cults 161, 162 mining 217, 222 galleries cargo 216, 218, 226 Krangket Island 97 palm oil 222 gardens, see parks & crocodile 139, 142 live-aboards 31 Esa’ala 76 gardens yam 132 Loloata Island 32, 60 etiquette 27, 128 Garewa 68 cultural centres 118 20, 31, 92, 98 European settlers 213-14 gas extraction projects culture 29, 226-8, see Milne Bay & Tawali 32, 73 events, see festivals & 121, 211 also cults, individual events gay travellers 233 regions Morobe 90 exchange rates 17 banana leaf money 80 Morovo Lagoon 34, 190 Gazelle Peninsula 152 burial & death rites 69, muck diving 67, 75 Ghizo Island 196-200 90, 163 Munda area 34, 194 F Gizo 196-8, 197 dukduks 164, 227, 228 Port Moresby 32, 47 77 Gonabarabara Island 76 Huli wigmen 121, 122, 5 Rabaul area 20, 32-3, festivals & events 9, 18, 78 kula ring 74 158, 160 21-2 103-10, 106 matrilineal lore 69, 172 Russell Islands 33 Ambunti Crocodile accommodation 108-9 sexual customs & Samarai Island 75 Festival 29, 140 activities 103-6 politics 79, 228 Solomon Islands 33-4, Divine Word University festivals & events 107 skeleton dances 111 189, 190, 194, 196 Cultural Show 93 food 109 Solomon Islands 204-5 Tavanipupu Island 190 Enga Cultural Show 118 shopping 109 Southern Highlands 119 Frangipani Festival 159 Tavui Point 160 sights 103-6 tumbuans 163, 164 Garamut & Mamba Tawali 20, 75 tourist information 109 wantok system 204, 227 Festival 128 Tufi 32, 67 tours 107 currency 80 Tulagi 33-4 Goroka Show 9, 22, 107, , travel to/from 110 PNG 16 USS John Penn 189 9 19 Solomon Islands 206 Hiri Moale 48 travel within 110 Wewak area 128 customs regulations 231-2 Kalam Culture Festival Goroka Show 9, 22, 107, Yuo Island 128 , cycling 170 101 9 19 domestic violence 211, 228 Kokoda Challenge 40 government 210-11, 218-19 drinking water 233 Madang Festival 93 Green River 137 driving licences 242 D Malagan Festival 166 Guadalcanal 177-90, 178-9 dance 111, 228 dukduks 164, 227, 228 Milamala Festival 80 Gwaunaru’u 203 dangers, see safety Dwyer, Mick 103 254 H independence 217 K Korosameri River 137 haggling 236 kula ring 74 Island 80 Krangket Island 97-8 Ham, Paul 216, 224 modern 218-19 Kambot 145 kula ring 74 Hansa Bay 100 No-Go Zone 219 Kamiali Wildlife Kumul Lodge 116 Hanuabada 47, 2 postwar 216-17 Management Area 89 Kumunibis 132 haus lains 119 WWII 215–16 Kaminabit 143-4 110-11 INDEX INDEX haus tambarans 227 hitching 243 Kanganaman 142-3 kundu drums 68 Kantobo 121 Sepik region 136, 141- holidays Kwato Island 75-6 142, 143, 146 PNG 235 Karkar Island 99-100

H–M health 37, 233 Solomon Islands 206 Kavieng 14, 164-8, 165, 14  accommodation 166-7 L 121-3 Honiara 177-88, 178-9, Lae 84-90, 86 activities 164-6 ,  Highlands 102-23, 104-5 184 186 accommodation 85-7 accommodation 180-3 festivals & events 166 accommodation 102 festivals & events 85 activities 177-80 food 167-8 climate 102 food 87 drinking 185 sights 164 culture 108, 119, 102, 122 safety 87 entertainment 185 tourist information 168 highlights 104-5, 104-5 sights 84-5 food 183-5 tours 166 history 103 tourist information 87-8 itineraries 183 travel to/from 168 safety 103 tours 85 safety 186 travel within 168-9 travel seasons 102 travel to/from 88-9 kayaking, see canoeing & shopping 185-6 travel within 89-90 hiking & trekking 18, 29-30, kayaking sights 177 Lake Dakataua 161 see also Kokoda Track Keating, Paul 225 tourist information 186-7 Lake Kutubu 120-1 B17 bomber wreck 90-1 Kegsugl 113 tours 180 land ownership 119 Black Cat Trail 84, 90, 91 Kennedy, John F 204 travel to/from 187-8 Langa Langa Lagoon 203 Bulldog Track 91 Kevasob 99 Huli wigmen 121, 122, 5 Langemack Bay 88 Fergusson Islands 77 Kieta 175 Huon Gulf coast 89 languages 16, 207, 211, 226, Goroka 107 Kimbe Bay 9, 161-3, , 8 9 245-9 Hindenburg Range 142 Island 78, 80-81 Autonomous Region of Karkar Island 99 I Kofure 68 Bougainville 172 Kolombangara 200 independence 217 Kohinggo Island 194 84 Kombiu 160 insurance 233 Koki 47 Pijin 247-8 maps 234 internet access Kokoda 63-6 245-7 PNG 233-4 Morovo Lagoon 191-3 Kokoda Track 12, 35-40, Lavongai (New Hanover) Mt Balbi 175 Solomon Islands 206 36-7, 38-9, 12 168-9 Mt Giluwe 117 internet resources 17 books 224 Leahy, Dan 215 Mt Lamington 66 accommodation 230 health 37 Leahy, Mick 103, 215 Mt Oiautukekea 78 government travel advice history 215-16, 224-5 legal matters 234 236 Mt Tambu 90 Kokoda Challenge 40 Lela Beach 189 volunteering 238 Mt Tavurvur 160 maps 234 lesbian travellers 233 Isabel 199 Mt Vulcan 160 organised treks 37-9 LGBT travellers 233 island getaways 20 Mt Wilhelm 111, 112 planning 35, 36 Libba 170 island provinces 147-75, Rabaul area 160-1 safety 37 libraries 85 148-9 Simbai 101 shortcuts 40 Lido 132 acommodation 147 Tufi 67, 68 Kokopau 175 lifestyle 226-7 activities 147 Victor Emmanuel Range Kokopo 151-61, 154 Lilisiana 200 climate 147 142 accommodation 152-5 literature, see books highlights 148-9, 148-9 Wau 90 activities 151-2 LNG gas project 121, 211 travel seasons 147 Hindenburg Range 142 drinking & nightlife 155 76 itineraries 19, 23-6, 23, 24, festivals & events 152 history 212-19, see , see also individual Loloata Island 60 26 food 155 also Kokoda Track, locations long houses 119 WWII, individual regions sights 151-2 Losuia 78 blackbirders 163 tourist information 155-6 Lower Sepik 144-5, 140-1 Bougainville war 173, J tours 152 Lumi 132 Jais Aben 98 216, 217, 219 travel to/from 156 Luyo 80 colonialism 214, 217 Japanese invasion 215-16, travel within 156-61 first settlement 212-13 224-5 Kolombangara 200 Jebo 68 Kombiu 160 M Madang 15, 92-7, 113, Jim Taylor 215 Komoa 68 Map Pages 94, 15 000 113-18 Kona 111 Photo Pages accommodation 93-4 000 Jorgensen, Dan 142 Korogo 141 255 activities 92 Mendi 120 Mt Hagen 113-18, 115 New Hanover 168-9 festivals & events 93 Mick Leahy 103 accommodation 114-16 food 95 Middle Sepik 141-4, 140-1 activities 113-14 163-71 shopping 95 Milamala Festival 80 festivals & events 9, accommodation 169 sights 92 Milne Bay Canoe & Kundu 22, 114 climate 164 tourist information 95-6 Festival 22 food 116 culture 164

tours 92-3 10, 22 sights 113-14 geography 164 INDEX travel to/from 96-7 68-81, 64-5, 10 tourist information history 163-4 travel within 96-7 accommodation 62 116-17 newspapers 207, 235

Madang Province 92-101, climate 62 tours 114 Normanby Island 76-7  M–P 83, 97 culture 69 travel to/from 117-18 73

 accommodation 82 geography 63 travel within 117-18 activities 82 Mt Hagen Show 9, 22, 114 highlights 64-5, 64-5 O climate 82 history 63 Mt Lamanai 77 Obweria Village 81 highlights 83, 83 travel seasons 62 Mt Lamington 66, 217 Ohu 98 history 84 Mindimbit 143 Mt Oiautukekea 78 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 98 travel seasons 82 mines 173, 175, 217, 222 Mt Tambu 90 Omarakana 78-9 Madehas Island 173 mobile phones Mt Tavurvur 13, 150, 157, Ona, Francis 173 160, 216, , magazines 207 PNG 16, 237 13 19 O’Neill, Peter 210-11, 219 Mt Vulcan 150, 160, 216 Magic Passage 92 Solomon Islands 206 opening hours Mt Wilhelm 11, 111-13 Makira-Ulawa 199 Moloat, Paliau 218 PNG 17, 234-5 mudmen 106 Malagan people 163 money 80, 234 Solomon Islands 206 arts & crafts 170 PNG 16, 17 Mum 99 Oro Bay 67 Malaita 200-3, Munda 194-6 201 Solomon Islands 206 Oro Province 66-8, 64-5 malaria 233 monuments & memorials Muschu Island 128 accommodation 62 Malinowski, Bronislaw 78, Australian War museums & galleries climate 62 79, 80 Memorial 69 Betikama SDA Mission geography 63 Maliwai 137, 140 188 Cape Wom International highlights 64-5, 64-5 Malolo 99 East New Britain Memorial Park 125 history 63 Malom 170 Historical & Cultural Christopher Robinson 75 travel seasons 62 Manam Island 100 Centre 151 Coastwatchers’ Memorial Orotaba 68 Mandi Bay 100 Beacon 92 JK McCarthy Museum 103 Osi Lake 201 manta rays 76 Henderson Airport detention Memorial Gardens 189 Madang Museum 92 centre 211 Japanese Memorial National Museum & Art P Gallery 46 Maprik 132 Peace Park 125 Pacific War, see WWII maps 234 Japanese monument National Museum Pagwi 141 (Honiara) 177 Maramba 146 (Autonomous Region Palambei 142 of Bougainville) 173 New Guinea Club & Maringei 142-4 Panasesa Resort 77 Japanese Peace Rabaul Museum 157 markets 13, 13 Panguna Landowners Memorial 158 Peter Joseph WWII Association 173 Honiara 177 Museum 194 Japanese war memorial Panguna mine 173, 175 Kokopo 151, 155 (Honiara) 189 Vilu War Museum 190 Lae 87 parks & gardens Solomon Peace music 227 Mt Hagen 113-14 Memorial Park 188 botanical gardens (Lae) 84 Port Moresby 47, 57 US War Memorial 177 N Japanese Memorial Marovo Lagoon 10, 190-4, Moresby, Captain John 46 , Namatanai 170 Peace Park 125 192 10 Morgan Junction 175 Marvwak 146 Narimo Island 132-3 National Orchid Gardens Morobe Province 84-91, 83 59-60 Matanasoi 170 National Museum & Art accommodation 82 Port Moresby Nature Mataniko Falls 13, 188 Gallery 46 activities 82 Park 47 matrilineal lore 69, 172 national parks 60, see also climate 82 wildlife management Varirata National Park 60 Matupit Island 159-60 highlights 83, areas Parliament Haus 46-7 Mayo 137 83 history 84 National Parliament passports 239 Mbabanga Island 198-200 (Honiara) 177 language 84 Patailu 164 McCarthy, JK 103 New Britain 150-63 travel seasons 82 Pearl Harbor 175 measures 207, 235 climate 150-1 phonecards 237 medical services 233 Morobe Show 85 culture 151 photography 235 memorials, see motorcycle travel 207 geography 150-1 Pijin language (Solomon monuments & Mt Austen 188 history 150 Islands) 247-9 memorials Mt Giluwe 117 256 Planet Rock 92 Q Sepik River 11, 135-46, Ulingan Bay 99 planning (PNG), see Queen Emma’s Steps 151 140-1, 11 Vanimo 132 also individual regions boat hire 137-8 Wewak area 128 basics 16-17 climate 136 tours 166 budgeting 17 R geography 136 Swagup 140 Rabaul 13, 157-9, 158, 13 calendar of events 21-2 guides 137 swimming Rabaul Nakaia 160 INDEX INDEX first time visitors 27-30 Lower Sepik 144-5 Finschhafen area 88 Rabaul Queen 211, 242 internet resources 17 Middle Sepik 141-4 Honiara 188 radio 235 itineraries 23-4, 26, 23, tours 138-46 Langa Langa Lagoon 203 rafting 177, 180 P–T 24, 26 Sepik River Festival 143 Madang 92  Ramu River 101 predeparture travel on 136-9 Narimo island 132 rats 223  checklist 29 travel to/from 139 Wewak area 128 Raun Raun Theatre 103, regions 41-2 Upper Sepik 140-1 106 travel seasons 16, 21-2 reefs Sereo, Pepetua 173 visas 28 Sewa Bay 77 T Conflict Islands 77 Talasea 161 planning (Solomon sexual customs & politics Maloway Cyclone Tambanum 144 Islands) 79, 228 Reef 67 Tari 121-3 calendar of events 21-2 shopping 236 Marion Reef 67 Tari Basin 122 itineraries 26, 26 language 246, 248 Nuakata Island 73 Tari Gap 122 regions 42 Shortland Islands 199 refugees 211 Tavanipupu Island 190 travel seasons 21-2 Simbai 101 religion 205, 211, 227-8, taxes 206 PMVs (public motor see also cults Simbo 200 vehicles) 243-4 taxis Rennell 199 Simbu Province 110-13 PNG 243 politics 210-11, 217-19 restaurants 233 skeleton dancers 111 Solomon Islands 207 sexual 228 road rules 243 skull caves 76 telephone services Popondetta 66-7 Russell Islands 33 Skull Island 194 PNG 16, 236-7 population 211, 226 snakes 221-3 Solomon Islands 206 Port Moresby 44-61, 45, snorkelling, see diving & 48-9, 53, 54, 56 S snorkelling Telikads 237 Saeraghi 198 accommodation 44, Sogeri Road 59-61 Temotu 199 safety 119-20, 236 48-51 Sohano Island 173 Tenaru Waterfalls 13, banana boats 242 activities 47 Solomon Islands 176-208, 188, 13 government travel advice climate 44 178-9 Tetepare Island 194 236 entertainment 57 accommodation 176 tiger parrots 222 festivals & events 48 women travellers 206, Timbunke 144 238 arts & crafts 205 food 44, 52-5 time 16, 207, 237 Sal Island 173 climate 176 highlights 45, Tinputz 175 45 Salamaua 90 culture 204-5 history 46 tipping 206 Salamo 77 economy 203 medical services 57 Togaku 80 74-6 environment 205-7 toilets 237 safety 46 Sandaun Province 132-5 highlights 178-9, 178-9 Tok Pisin language shopping 57 Sandline Affair 173 historical sites 176 (PNG) 245-7 sights 46-7 Sariba Island 76 history 203-4 ToRot, Peter 157 tourist information 57 satelilite phones 237 language 247-9 tourist information 237 tours 47-8 Savo 189 politics 203 tours 27-8, 241, 207, see travel seasons 44 travel seasons 176 scenery 18 also individual regions travel to/from 57-8, travel to/from 206-7 Sepik region 124-46, 126-7 adventure 107 58, 72 travel within 207-8 accommodation 124 boat 69, 92, 138-9 travel within 58-9 arts & crafts 139, 143 Somare, Sir Michael 218-19 postal services 235 cultural 69, 107, 114, climate 124 sorcery 228 122, 180 public holidays culture 124 Southern Highlands diving 75, 166 PNG 235 Province 119-21, 122 etiquette 128 ecotours 47 Solomon Islands 206 springs, thermal 77, 160, highlights 126-7, 126-7 surfing 166 Putput 170 162, 189 history 125 trekking 38-9, 114 Sup 128 packing list 134-5 village 92 surfing 20, 29-30 religion 139 travel to/from PNG 239-41 Ghizo Island 198 tourist information 131-2 travel within PNG 58, 241-4 transport to/from the Kavieng 164 Map Pages travellers cheques 234 000 Sepik 100 Muschu Island 128 tree kangaroos 222 Photo Pages 000 travel seasons 124 Star Harbour 199 257 trekking, see hiking & volcanoes Western Province (PNG) Battle of Milne Bay 73 trekking Autonomous Region of 144 history 73, 215-16, 224-5 tribal warfare 119 Bougainville 172 Western Province lynchings 216 14, 78-81 Karkar Island 99 (Solomon Islands) museums 188, 190, 194 190-200, Tufi 67-8 Kombiu 160 191 Port Moresby 46 Wewak 125-32, , Tulagi 189 Manam Island 100 129 130 Solomon Islands 204

accommodation 128-31 INDEX Turtle Beach 189 Mt Lamanai 77 WWII sites 15, 15, see also turtles 89, 194 Mt Lamington 66, 217 activities 128 monuments & TV 235 Mt Tavurvur 13, 150, 157, festivals & events 128 memorials, underwater food 128 wrecks, wrecks  U–Z 19 ,13 ,216 ,160 Mt Vulcan 150, 160, 216 shopping 131 Admiral Yamamoto’s  U Rabaul Nakaia 160 sights 125-8 Bunker 157-8 Ulingan Bay 99 Savo 189 tours 128 Alexishafen 98 underwater wrecks Talasea 161 travel to/from 131-2, 133 Autonomous Region of B17 Black Jack bomber Bougainville 172 Vulcanology travel within 131-2 67 Baeroko Bay 194 Observatory 158 White Island 173 Bonegi 190 Bloody Ridge 189 volunteering 238 wildlife 221, 222 Madang 92 Bonegi 190 wildlife management areas Milne Bay 73 cemeteries 59, 84, 152 Balek Wildlife Morovo Lagoon 190 W Sanctuary 98 Guadalcanal 177 Munda area 194 118-20 Crater Mountain Wildlife Kiriwina Island 80 Wagawaga 73-4 Rabaul area 158, 160 Management Area 110 Kokopo area 156 Wagu Lagoon 145 Tufi 67 Kamiali Wildlife Krangket Island 97 USS John Penn 189 Wakunai 175 Management Area 89 Madang 92 walking, see hiking & wildlife watching 18 Morobe Province 84 trekking witchcraft 69 Mt Austen 188 V wantok system 204, 227 vacations Wogamush River 137 New Britain 150 Warimo 132 PNG 235 Wombun 146 Popondetta 66 Warluma 77 Solomon Islands 206 women in PNG 119, 211, Salamaua 90 Warwagira & Mask Festival 228 vaccinations 233 21 Sewa Bay 77 women travellers 238 Vaiava 78 waterfalls 13 submarine bases 160 breastfeeding 231 Vanimo 132-9 Bisi Falls 121 tunnels 156 PNG 238 Varirata National Park 60 Kwaibala Waterfall 200-1 Wewak 125 Solomon Islands 206 Victor Emmanuel Ranges Mataniko Falls 13, 188 142 wrecks, see also Tenaru Waterfalls 13, viewpoints underwater wrecks Y 188, 13 Yako 132 Blue Lagoon Lookout 156 aircraft 80, 90–1, 98, Wasi Falls 121 128, 160, 161–2, Yalaka village 81 Hobrum Bluff 60 Wau 90-2 175, 189 Yamamoto, Admiral Isoroku Mt Kis Lookout 106 weather 16, 21, 22, 16, see boats & ships 73, 125, 175 Port Moresby 47 also individual regions 189, 190, 194 Yambon 137 Vulcanology websites, see internet floating cranes 156 Yentchen 141-2 Observatory 158 resources tanks 189, 190 Yessan 137 village life 20 weights 207, 235 WWI 215 Yuo Island 128 Visale 190 West New Britain Province WWII 125, 215-16, see visas 161-3 also Kokoda Track, PNG 16, 28, 237-8, 239, West New Georgia 194-6 monuments & Z 240 Western Highlands memorials, underwater zoos 85 Solomon Islands 206 Province 113-18 wrecks, wrecks, WWII sites 258 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 259

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Lindsay Brown Morobe & Madang Provinces, The Highlands, Island Provinces As a travel writer and photographer, Lindsay relished the opportunity to trek up Mt Wilhelm, spot birds of paradise on the slopes of Mt Hagen and photograph the spectacular dancers at the Goroka Show – surely one of the greatest shows on earth. Travel- ling to Madang and the island provinces provided the perfect opportunity for this ex–marine biologist to dust off the diving qualifications and get reacquainted with the underwater world. Lindsay also wrote Welcome to PNG & Solomon Islands, Top 15 Experi- ences, Need to Know, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Kokoda Track, Regions at a Glance, PNG Today, History, Directory and Transport.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Solomon Islands Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard island-lover and diving instructor. He has clocked up numerous trips to the South Pacific, including five assignments to the Solomon Islands. On this -re search gig, his favourite experiences included diving the WWII wrecks off Tulagi, spending a day in Saeraghi, exploring Marovo Lagoon on a dinghy and visiting Gwaunaru’u with a local chief. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles, in French and in English. He also writes for travel and dive magazines, and wrote the Diving chapter for this guide.

Anna Kaminski Port Moresby, Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces, The Sepik Anna has dreamed of Papua ever since her history teacher showed her class slides of the penis-­ gourd-wearing villagers when she was 12 years old, and had an extensive knowledge of PNG history and indigenous culture before she set foot there. PNG surpassed all her expectations. During this research trip, she did an expe- dition down the Sepik, met a magician who makes rain in the Trobriand Islands, explored gritty Moresby and island-hopped in Milne Bay. Anna also wrote First Time in PNG and People of PNG. She tweets at @ACKaminski.

Contributing Authors Tim Flannery is a naturalist, ecologist, environmental activist, author and Australian of the year in 2007. He has been director of the South Australian Museum, adjunct professor at Macquarie University and is currently a professorial fellow at Melbourne University and chair of the Climate Council. Peter FitzSimons is a journalist, former Australian rugby player and author of Kokoda.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – December 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 216 5 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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