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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 250 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Chris, Serah, Donaldson, Bob, Lisa and Pam, OUR READERS who went out of their way to help me. And Many thanks to the travellers who used the finally, once again a gros bisou to Christine, last edition and wrote to us with helpful who supported me. hints, useful advice and interesting anec- dotes. Berna Collier, Bernard Hayes, Blake Anna Kaminski Everson, Caspar Dama, Charlie Lynn, Diarne Kreltszheim, Fred Lazell, Haya Zommer, Joanna I would like to thank Tasmin for entrusting me O’Shea, Lynne Cannell, Manuel Hetzel, Markus with research of the most fascinating country Eifried, Martijn Maandag, Rebecca Nava, Tim I’ve ever covered; my fellow scribes, Lindsay Bridgeman, Zoltan & Anna Szabo and JB; and everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular, Nick and Jared – my Moresby angels; Paul Barker for his incompar- AUTHOR THANKS able knowledge of PNG; Chris and Susan for the Sepik trip; Modakula, Warren, Sharon, Lindsay Brown Cathy, Jim and Delsie in Alotau; Gum in Kiri- Thanks to Jenny Wal at PNG Highlands Adven- wina; Kayleigh at Nuli Sapi; Kipa and Gregory tures and to Raphael (Siwi) Kogun for all his en route from Aitape to Wewak; my rescuer in expertise and insights into PNG, and for stay- Popondetta; Nicolas for sharing his knowledge ing cool and saving the day near Mendi. Thanks and books; and Joe the driver in Moresby. also to Mawi Maine, Chris Kogun and Phillip Gonapa. Thomas Tayape in Tari, Pym and Eliz- abeth Mamindi in Mt Hagan, Jackson Pinia in ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Kokopo, Shaun and Shannon at Nusa Island Retreat and Tony Pukuntap in New Ireland. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Thanks to fellow writers Anna Kaminski and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Jean-Bernard Carillet, and to Jenny Fegent. World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Jean-Bernard Carillet Sciences, 11, pp1633–44. Heaps of thanks to the editorial and cartogra- Cover photograph: Local fishers in a traditional phy teams at Lonely Planet for their great work. outrigger canoe above a coral garden, Kimbe Coordinating author Lindsay Brown deserves Bay, Papua New Guinea. David Doubilet/ a grand merci for his support, as does desti- National Geographic Creative © nation editor Tasmin Waby for her guidance. In the Sols, a special mention goes to Kerrie, 251 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK previous edition was written by Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Regis St Louis, Jean-Bernard Assisting Editor Pete Crut- This 10th edition of Lonely Carillet and Dean Starnes. tenden This book was commissionied Planet’s Papua New Guinea Assisting Cartographers & Solomon Islands guide was in London and produced in Hunor Csutoros, Rachel researched and written by Melbourne by the following: Imeson Lindsay Brown, Jean-Bernard Tasmin Destination Editor Cover Research Naomi Parker Carillet and Anna Kaminski. Waby Anita Banh, David Tim Flannery wrote the Thanks to Coordinating Editor Monique Carroll, Laura Crawford, Grace Environment chapter, which Perrin Dobell, Andi Jones, Kate was updated this edition by Product Editor Susan Pat- Mathews, Karyn Noble, Sarah Anna Kaminski. Peter Fitz- erson Reid, Alison Ridgway, Ellie Simons wrote the Kokoda Diana Simpson, Angela Tinson Story chapter, updated this Senior Cartographer Von Holdt edition by Lindsay Brown. The ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 252 Index A Solomon Islands 205 Goldie’s bird of Buin 175 Abelam villages 132 tribal 12, 81, 139, 143, 145, paradise 77 Buka 172-5 accommodation 230-31, 228, 12, 14 megapodes 189 Buka Island 172-5 205, see also village wickerwork dance tiger parrots 222 Bulolo 90-2 stays, individual regions costumes 142 birds of paradise 11, 77, 220, bus travel 207 budget 205, 231 Asaro 106 223, 11 business hours camping 231 asylum seekers 211 birdwatching 11, 28 PNG 17, 234-5 children, with 231 ATMs Enga Province 116 Solomon Islands 206 language 246 PNG 234 Kimbe Bay 162 butterflies 98 village stays 62, 68, 74, Solomon Islands 206 Mt Hagen 114 Bwetalu Village 81 81, 138, 169, 231 Attenborough, David 122 Port Moresby 47 websites 230 Auki 200-3, 202 Sepik River 137 with children 231 Australian Immigration Tari 122 C camping 231 activities 28-9, see also Detention Centre 211 Tetepare Island 194 cannibalism 163 individual activities, Autonomous Region of Tufi 68 individual regions canoeing & kayaking Bougainville 171-5 Varirata National Park Aibom 145-6 culture 171, 172 47, 60 Kavieng 166 air travel geography 172 Wagawaga 74-3 Morovo Lagoon 191 PNG 239-40, 241 history 171-2, 173, 216, Wagu Lagoon 145 Tufi 67, 68 Solomon Islands 206-7 217, 219 Bisi Falls 121 Wagawaga 73 airlines 239, 241 Black Cat Trail 84, 90, 91 car travel airports 239 PNG 242-3 B Black Jack bomber (B17) 67 Alexishafen 98 Baeroko Bay 194 Blackwater Lakes 137, 143 Solomon Islands 207 Alotau 69-73, 70 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 98 boat travel cargo cults 216, 218, 226 Amboin 146 Bamugl 111 disasters 242 cassowaries 221-3 Ambunti 140-1 bargaining 236 PNG 28, 240-2 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Ambunti Crocodile Barracuda Point 92 Solomon Islands 207 Festival 21, 140 caves 80, 111, 121, 200 bats 92, 111 tours 69 Angoram 100, 145 cell phones Battle of Milne Bay 73 Bogia 100 animals 220, 222, see also PNG 16, 237 Bauwame 68 Bol 170 individual species Solomon Islands 206 beaches Bolubolu 78 animism 227-8 cemeteries Honiara area 189-90 Boluminski Highway 19, Apangai 132 Bagail Cemetery 164 Kaibola Beach 80, 25 170, 170-1 Arawa 175 Bita Paka War Cemetery Machine Gun Beach 92 Bomana War Cemetery art galleries, see museums 59, 25 152 & galleries Port Moresby 47 Bonegi 190 Chinese Cemetery 156 artefacts 232 Wawela 80 books 79, 80, 103, 210 Lae War Cemetery 84 arts & crafts 228 Wewak 125 history 212 Peter ToRot 157 banana leaf money 80 Yuo Island 128 Kokoda Track 224 Central Province 63-6, 64-5 Bowies Art Centre 143 Beehives 160 wildlife 221 accommodation 62 carving 81, 139, 141 Bellona 199 border crossings 240 climate 62 Malagan 170 bicycle travel 170 Bougainville 175 geography 63 Sepik region 139, 143 biodiversity 220 breastfeeding 231 highlights 64-5, 64-5 birds 220, 221-3 budget history 63 birds of paradise 11, 77, travel seasons 62 Map Pages 000 220, 223, 11 PNG 17, 231, 233 Chambri Lakes 145-6 Photo Pages 000 cassowaries 221-3 Solomon Islands 205, 206 children, travel with 231 253 Chimbut 146 darts 108 E Milne Bay Canoe & Chimondo 145 Dawadawa River 73 Earhart, Amelia 216 Kundu Festival 70 Choiseul 199 death rites 69, 90, 163 East Cape 73 Morobe Show 85 Christianity 205, 227-8 d’Entrecasteaux, Antoine East New Britain Province Mt Hagen Show 9, Christmas Island 173 76 151-61 22, 114 churches & cathedrals D’Entrecasteaux Islands East Sepik Province 125, Sepik River Festival 143 Holy Cross Catholic 76-8 128-32 Warwagira & Mask INDEX Cathedral 177 detention centres 211 Eastern Highlands Province Festival 152 Kaminabit 143 disabilities, travellers 103-10 yam harvest Kwato Island 75 with 237 celebrations 132 Eel Gardens 92 C–G Port Moresby 47 disasters 242 Ela Beach 47 films 98, 103, 122, 210, Samarai Island 75 Discovery Bay 73-4 elections 210 215, 228 climate 16, 21, 22, 16, see diving & snorkelling 9, 20, electricity Finschhafen 88 also individual regions 28-30, 31-4, 32, 8, 9, PNG 232 fishing 29 climate change 239 see also underwater Solomon Islands 207 Alotau 70 Conflict islands 77 wrecks embassies & consulates Tufi 67, 68 conservation centres 162 B17 Black Jack bomber Vanimo 133 67 PNG 232 consulates, see embassies FitzSimons, Peter 224 & consulates Bonegi 190 Solomon Islands 205-6 Flannery, Tim 210, 220 costs D’Entrecasteaux Islands emergencies flying foxes 92, 111 PNG 17, 231, 233 77 PNG 237 Flynn, Errol 215 Solomon Islands 205, Ghizo 34 Solomon Islands 205 206 Gizo 196 Enga Province 118 food 232-3 credit cards Guadalcanal 33 environment budget 206, 233 PNG 234 Hansa Bay 100 PNG 220-3 language 246, 248, 249 Solomon Islands 206 Honiara 177 Solomon Islands 205-7 yams 79, 132 cricket 79 Jais Aben 98 environmental issues 222 crocodile cults 139, 142 Karkar Island 99 deforestation 217 G crocodiles 194 Kavieng 33, 165-6 LNG natural gas project Gagidu Station 88 cruises 241 Kimbe Bay 20, 33, 121, 211 galleries, see museums & cults 161, 162 mining 217, 222 galleries cargo 216, 218, 226 Krangket Island 97 palm oil 222 gardens, see parks & crocodile 139, 142 live-aboards 31 Esa’ala 76 gardens yam 132 Loloata Island 32, 60 etiquette 27, 128 Garewa 68 cultural centres 118 Madang 20, 31, 92, 98 European settlers 213-14 gas extraction projects culture 29,
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