Rutas Gastronomicas

V a l e n c i a Contents

Introduction ……………………………………………………………………4

The Denominations of Origin routes

The wine route ……………………………………………………………………6

The cava route ……………………………………………………………………10

The olive oil route …………………………………………………………………12

The produce routes

The seafood route…………………………………………………………………16

The rural produce route ……………………………………………………………18

The mountain and forest produce route ……………………………………………20

The livestock produce route ………………………………………………………22

The poultry route …………………………………………………………………24

Gastronomic map of Catalonia …………………………………………………26

The craft foods routes

The sausages route ………………………………………………………………28

The cheese route …………………………………………………………………30

The pantry route …………………………………………………………………32

The routes of trades and tradition

The traditional cuisine route ………………………………………………………34

The pastries route …………………………………………………………………36

The markets route…………………………………………………………………38

The food trades route ……………………………………………………………40

The museums route ………………………………………………………………42

Directory ………………………………………………………………………46 The gastronomic heritage of Catalonia

Catalonia has an extraordinary cultural heritage and landscape, but it is also one of the world's main gastronomic destinations. Its cuisine is a driving force for tourism because Catalonia has a substantial supply of high-quality culinary products and services. Thus, our country's gastronomy is a first-rate asset and adds value to the rest of what the country has to offer.

oistening a piece of toasted bread by rubbing it with a very mature tomato Mcut in half, drizzling it with extra virgin olive oil and then adding a pinch of salt is, for those who come from abroad, one of the best introductions to the cuisine of the country. Pa amb tomàquet is, surely, the traditional food most com- monly eaten by Catalans, even though it is a rel- atively new dish since tomatoes arrived from the Americas only a little more than five centuries ago. But the simplicity of this dish's ingredients is not entirely representative of the richness of the country's cuisine. A visit to Catalan markets - each town has its own - shows the diversity of indigenous products; there you can find peppers, cherries, strawberries, oranges, endives, mushrooms, artichokes, asparagus, sardines, prawns, veal… A splendid showcase of fresh food that varies with each season of the year.

A FAVOURITE DESTINATION Aside from the quality and richness of Catalan produce, over the past few years Catalonia has become an international culinary reference point thanks to its innovative cuisine. Food lovers from around the world have come, for example, to enjoy the dishes made by the three-star Catalan chefs Ferran Adrià in Roses, Santi Santamaria in Sant Celoni and Carme Ruscalleda in Sant Pol. Other Catalan chefs have also been working hard to raise Catalan cuisine up to its superb present level. This is one of the reasons why Catalonia has become the desti- 4 nation of choice for lovers of fine cuisine. 16 ROUTES TO GET A FLAVOUR OF THE COUNTRY There are unlimited possibilities for travelling around Catalonia and learning about its leading products, its most traditional dishes and its most emblematic gastronomic museums. From the fish markets on the Costa Brava to the craft cheese dairies in the Pyrenees, and taking in the wineries in El Penedès, the calçots (blanched onion shoots) fields of Valls and the small embotit (sausage) shops in Osona, there is a whole culinary world to discover. Here you will find a fine selection of what the counties of Catalonia have to offer in the way of gastronomic tourism. There are a total of 16 thematic routes divided into four large sections: the routes of the DOs (denominations of origin), the produce routes, the craft foods routes and the trades and traditions routes. Each section has its own directory with practical information about establishments, visits and information centres. We hope you enjoy them!

5 The wine route

Catalonia is Spain’s leading producer of quality wines, and one of the most important wine producing areas in Europe. Wine has been a feature of our landscape since ancient times. Catalonia has eleven denominations of origin: DO Alella, DO Catalunya, DO Conca de Barberà, DO Costers del Segre, DO Empordà-Costa Brava, DO Montsant, DO Penedès, DO Pla de Bages, DO Priorat, DO Tarragona and DO Terra Alta. If you want to find out about the exciting world of Catalan vine growing and wine making, take a trip round the towns and villages, wineries, specialised establishments and museums to be found throughout Catalonia.

PENEDÈS Penedès that have strong wine making At many wine making centres in the traditions. A good example is El Pla de Penedès DO visitors can learn about Bages DO, which has won international what happens to the grapes from when awards in recent years. There are they arrive at the winery to when they wineries that offer tours, such as the are made into wine. Many of these cen- Celler Cooperatiu d’Artés, the Masies tres are featured in the Wine and Cava d’Avinyó winery in Santa Maria Routes, a network of itineraries that are d’Horta d’Avinyó, and the Jaume part of the wine tourism project of the Andreu winery. An excursion through Alt Penedès Consortium for the Pro- the area will also show visitors the motion of Tourism. Other wine tourism old vineyard huts - small, simple stone options include staying in rural tourism structures that were used by local peas- houses on estates where wine is made ant farmers to store their tools. The or visiting the two information centres administrative headquarters of the DO that are in the area: the Vineyard and Regulating Council is the Casa de la Culla Wine Workshop (l’Aula de la Vinya i el in Manresa, an old farmhouse where Vi) in Sant Pere Molanta, and the wine tasting courses are also given. Wine Museum (Museu del Vi)in Mareseme is home to the Alella DO, the Vilafranca del Penedès. smallest denomination area in Catalonia. The Can Magarola farmhouse in Alella PLA DE BAGES AND ALELLA is the administrative headquarters of the 6 There are areas in addition to El DO and also houses a wine museum. Wine and cava show

In 1980, the Catalan Institute of Vines and Wine (Institut Català de la Vinya i el Vi) held the first Catalan Wine and Cava Show and it has now become one of the traditional activities of Barcelona’s Festa Major festival, held during the month of September. This event is one of the most important for viticulture enthusiasts, yet it is not the only one. Others that are held in Catalonia include grape harvest festivals in Sitges and Bellmunt de Priorat, wine festivals in Alella and Batea, and wine and cava shows in L’Empordà and Falset.

One country, twelve Denominations of Origin

• At present there are twelve protected Vines and Wine), an organisation with 180 million bottles sold annually. Denominations of Origin around Catalonia, registered with the Department of The industry employs about 22,000 some of which are small while others cross Agriculture, Livestock and Fisheries of people, has more than 400 wineries, county lines. The first ten are: Penedès DO, Pla the Catalan government (Generalitat de Cata- and is the third most important sector in de Bages DO, Alella DO, Priorat DOQ., Mont- lunya), controls and manages the system for Catalan agriculture. sant DO, Conca de Barberà DO, Tarragona DO, protection of quality wines, as well as experi- Terra Alta DO, Costers del Segre DO, and mentation in the area of viniculture and oenol- • The varieties of grapes traditional to Empordà-Costa Brava DO. ogy, the organisation of courses for profession- young wines, which come from the last vin- als in the sector, and product promotion. tage, are Chardonnay, White Sauvignon and • The eleventh Denomination of Macabeu, for white wines, and Tempranillo Origin is Cava DO, which will be dealt with • Over the years, the production, develop- (ull de llebre) for red wines. Crianza wines are separately, owing to the importance that cava ment and marketing of Catalan viticulture full-bodied wines that have been aged in an has acquired in the last few years. The last DO products have given them a leading position oak barrel. The Gran Reserves come from the is the Catalunya DO, which covers all of in international markets. Nowadays, Catalonia best vintages and are normally aged for sev- Catalonia. The INCAVI (Catalan Institute of is Spain’s largest producer of quality wine, eral years in the barrel. 7 PRIORAT AND MONTSANT demarcation. The histories and tra- The wines from the Priorat DOQ ditions of all three are closely (Qualified Denomination of Origin) entwined with wine and a variety of and the Montsant DO are increasing- viticulture visits can be made, espe- ly well-known, and their reputation cially to the Modernist wineries built and quality have already made their by the architect Cèsar Martinell. Several mark abroad. Wine experts from around co-operatives created at the beginning of the world come to visit to find out the the 20th century in La Conca de Barberà reason for their high quality. On a trip have wineries of this type, such as the through the Priorat DOQ a must-see are Pira, Montblanc, Barberà de la Conca the Cartoixa d’Scala Dei ruins at the and Rocafort de Queralt co-operatives. foot of the Montsant mountain range. In Just to the south lies the Tarragona DO the Montsant DO, which covers part of where one can visit the Muller winery in The wine stores El Priorat and La Ribera d’Ebre, a visit Reus and the Tous Andreu winery in to the Capçanes winery, where among Pont d’Armentera close to the Santes To taste or buy the wines from each other high quality wines kosher wine is Creus monastery. Also nearby is the Celler DO, it is worth visiting one of the made in accordance with Jewish tradi- de Nulles, a winery built by Cèsar specialised establishments to be tion, is highly recommended. The Priorat Martinell, as well as the Granja Montalà found throughout Catalonia. These Tourism Bureau offers visits to thirteen Wine Museum in Valls. Then there is the include wine stores, rural products wineries belonging to the two denomi- Terra Alta DO consisting of seventeen shops and winery shops where, in nations of origin. municipalities and in which its capital, addition to bottles of wine, the visi- Gandesa, has a leading role. Indeed it is in tor can take home all kinds of objects CONCA DE BARBERÀ, TERRA ALTA Gandesa that one can visit the Modernist related to wine culture such as AND TARRAGONA winery also built by Modernist architect corkscrews, glasses and decanters. Neighbouring El Priorat are the Conca de Cèsar Martinell. The same architect de- Barberà, Terra Alta and Tarragona DOs signed the Pinell de Brai co-operative, 8 which cover a large area of the Tarragona nicknamed “the wine cathedral”. tours, and Raimat where a wine harvest festival is held every September.

EMPORDÀ-COSTA BRAVA Located north-east of Girona, the Em- pordà Costa-Brava DO consists of 5,600 hectares of vineyards. Historically it was centred around the ancient Greek city of Empúries, which inherited vine growing and wine making from its original inhabitants. There are several wineries in the area, and one of the most traditional and famous is at Castell de Perelada. For making white wines, varieties of Grenache, Macabeu, xarel·lo and Chardonnay grapes are grown. The most widespread variety used for red COSTERS DEL SEGRE wine is Carinyena, though of late the A denomination of origin usually corre- Grenache, ull de llebre (Tempranillo), sponds to a delimited part of a territorial Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties area. However, this is not the case of have become quite important. Costers del Segre, which includes the whole of the province of Lleida and is CATALONIA divided into six sub-zones extending from The Catalunya DO covers all of Artesa de Segre to El Pallars Jussà. Catalonia and includes wines that have Hence there is a wide range of wines pro- not been included in any other DO but duced in different wineries, such as do deserve brand backing because of Castell del Remei which offers guided their high quality.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The cava route

With its own DO, the origin of cava is associated with the splendour of Catalan viticulture in the middle of the 19th century. Its production area includes 160 towns. The wine-making county of El Penedès contributes more than 95% of the total, and its highlight is the town of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia that turns out more than 75% of the almost 200 million bottles produced per year. The first bottles came out in 1872, and in 1972 the Sparkling Wine Regulatory Council was established, to be followed in 1993 by the first Cava Regulatory Council. A good way of finding out about how cava is made is to visit one of its numerous production facilities.

cided to produce native white grape vari- HISTORY Cava Cava production has a long history in this eties. In 1872, Josep Raventós of the his- area. In fact, the origin of cava is associ- toric Codorniu company produced the Ideal as an aperitif and also to ated with the splendour of the Catalan first 3,000 bottles of cava using the accompany meals, cava has won a viticulture of the mid 19th century and method of second fermentation in the place in the world wine market. It with the fame that champagne gained bottle. His son and heir, Manuel Raventós, can be brut, dry, semi-dry or sweet at the end of the 18th century. Louis began the expansion and consolidation of depending on the concentration of Pasteur’s microbiological research applied the company. At the same time, other residual sugar that it contains, and to wine enabled control of the second fer- producers in the town also began to make it is usually served in a glass flute mentation in the bottle, and the invention cava and turned Sant Sadurní d’Anoia into devoid of colour to show the move- of the cork stopper meant it was possible the nerve centre of the cava industry. ment of the bubbles. to avoid losing the bubbles that wine pro- During the 1920s, cava gained a foothold duces. This marked the birth of the tradi- in the Spanish market and took off dur- tional or champenoise method. During ing the 1960s, while it achieved interna- the 19th century, a number of families in tional prominence in the 1980s. Today it Sant Sadurní d’Anoia began to research is one of the most dynamic viticulture sec- into this new production technique and tors in Catalonia, with an annual produc- applied it to the produce of the region. tion of more than 200 million bottles. Based on the research and trials carried out in conjunction with the prestigious SANT SADURNÍ D’ANOIA Institut Agrícola Català (Catalan Agri- If Vilafranca is the wine capital of the 10 culture Institute) in Sant Isidre, they de- area, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia is the cava capital. Here and throughout El Pe- Lluís M. Güell and the Santacana Roig nedès, a large part of the land is fur- warehouses built by Domènech Boada, rowed for vineyards. The wineries, or an instance of Modernism applied to cava-production centres, are scattered industrial buildings. around the countryside and offer the visitor the opportunity to gain insider THE CAVA ROUTES knowledge of what happens to the The routes signposted by the Alt grapes from when they arrive at the win- Penedès Consortium for the ery to the time they are pressed, left in Promotion of Tourism, called the the cellars and bottled. However, in Sant Wine and Cava Routes, make it Sadurní d’Anoia a visit to the Codorniu easy to visit other wineries in the winery is a must. It is located in a build- county. Six of them can be fol- ing built by the Modernist architect Puig lowed by car and on foot through i Cadafalch, and has 26 km of under- some of the municipalities of the ground cellars of which only a small part county, calling in at their most is open to the public. A tourist mini-train emblematic wineries, towns and follows a route that includes a visit to a monuments. The seventh features a Cava Week museum with presses, barrels and tools tourist bus that leaves from Lavern used during the long history of the win- coach station. The routes go through Cava Week, which is held at the ery. While in Sant Sadurní visitors can vineyards, especially those containing beginning of October, started in Sant check out other wineries such as the Pansa Blanca (xarel·lo), Parellada Sadurní with the aim of promoting Freixenet, Torelló, Raventós i Blanc and and Macabeo varieties which are the cava throughout Catalonia and Spain. Gramona. Before leaving the town, it is ones used to make cava, and also to var- The highlights of the festivities are the a good idea to take a stroll through its ious wineries such as Giró Ribot, coronation of the Cava Queen and centre to look at fascinating examples of Llopart, Rovellats, Canals Canals, her speech, the cava train, and the Modernist architecture such as the Eudald Massana Noya, Nadal and Alsina Cavatast, a fair for the cava and cui- houses designed by Modernist architect & Sardà which organise guided tours. sine of El Penedès.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The olive oil route

Olive oil is one of the main ingredients in Mediterranean cuisine and it plays a fundamental role in traditional diets and Catalan cuisine. At present there are four Protected Denominations of Origin (PDOs) in Catalonia: Les Garrigues, La Siurana, La Terra Alta and El Baix Ebre-Montsià. In addition, L’Empordà DOP is in the process of gaining community certification. Visiting the olive groves in the late autumn and early winter, when the olives are harvested and pressed in the mill and new oil is made, provides a unique spectacle and an excellent way of finding out about the culture of olive oil.

GARRIGUES quina olives with an acidic content of less The Garrigues PDO includes the coun- than five percent. Also located in Les ties of Les Garrigues, El Segrià and Borges Blanques is the Olive Oil Theme L’Urgell. Arbeca, La Floresta, Els Park (Parc Temàtic de l’Oli ) where Omellons, L’Espluga Calba, Fulleda, visitors can see old presses and fifty-four Vinaixa and L’Albi are some of the millenarian olive trees, including one that municipalities in the area which have not at 2,200 years-old is said to be the old- lost the charm of dry-farming towns. est in the world. Other centres dedicat- During the harvest season (from Novem- ed to the culture of olives include a small ber to January) it is easy to find both olive oil museum in Castelldans and the labourers combing through the trees Olive Oil Eco-Museum (Ecomuseu de with a rasp to make the olives fall into l’Oli) in Pobla de Cérvoles. the burlap sacks in which they are gath- ered and tractors plying to-and-fro non- SIURANA stop between the groves and the co- The Siurana PDO district covers the operatives. There are more than twenty- entire basin of the Siurana River, that is five co-operatives, and some are open to to say, the counties of El Baix Camp, El visitors including L’Espluga Calba in Baix Penedès, El Priorat, L’Alt Camp, La Cervià de les Garrigues, and Sant Ribera d’Ebre, La Conca de Barberà and Isidre in Les Borges Blanques. All of El Tarragonès. Its roads converge in them produce oil protected by the DO, Reus, one of the historic capitals of olive 12 that is to say, extra virgin oil from Arbe- oil. There are two main olive production What the label says

To know where olive oil comes from, read the label. If the words oli d’oliva verge (virgin olive oil) are on it, that means that the oil is of premi- um quality and natural. If, in addition, the word extra appears, it means that the oil has a maximum acidic content of 0.8%, which guar- antees its quality. If refinat (refined) is there, it means that the oil has been treated but is equally suitable for consumption; if, on the other hand, the label says oli d’oliva (olive oil) it is a mixture of refined and virgin olive oil.

The landscapes and culture of olive oil

• Olive trees have been in Catalonia which uses Arbequina (90%) and Verdiell vari- epidermis and stimulates bone growth. In for thousands of years, and their fruit has eties of olives; Siurana (Baix Camp, El Baix addition, because of its high vitamin E con- been, and is still, the fundamental essence of Penedès, El Priorat, L’Alt Camp, La Ribera d’Ebre, tent and the anti-toxin effect that this vitamin our traditional cuisine. What would pa amb La Conca de Barberà and El Tarragonès), where has, olive oil is especially recommended for tomàquet (bread smeared with tomato) or a the Arbequina (90%), Rojal and Morruda vari- infants and the elderly. salad be without a dash of olive oil? Not to eties are used; Terra Alta, where oil is made • There are many festivals associated with mention escalivada (baked vegetables in olive mainly from the Empeltre variety but with small olive oil that are held in Catalonia during the oil), graellades (charcoal-grilled meat or additions from other varieties such as Arbequina, months of November, December and January, seafood), romesco (a Catalan pepper sauce) Morruda, and Farga; and the Baix Ebre-Montsià during the time of harvesting, pressing and final- and allioli (a mayonnaise-like sauce made of area, where the Farga, Morruda and Sevillenca ly bottling the first oils of the year, known as l’oli garlic and olive oil). This golden liquid enrich- varieties are mostly used. Olive oil production is novell or new oil. Some of the most popular es our dishes every day, but it also enriches also important in L’Alt and El Baix Empordà. events are the l’Oli Nou Festival in Reus, the the landscapes, the villages and towns and • It has been shown that extra virgin olive Castelldans Olive Oil Fair, the l’Oli Novell Fair in the festivals of the areas where it is made. oil decreases levels of harmful cholesterol and Santa Bàrbara, the Belianes Olive Oil Festival, the • Nowadays in Catalonia there are four pro- thus reduces the danger of arterial sclerosis. Garrigues Olive Oil Fair in Les Borges Blanques, tected DOs for olive oil: Les Garrigues (the coun- The experts say that oil improves the function- the Olive Oil Fair in Espolla and the Terres de 13 ties of Les Garrigues, El Segrià and L’Urgell), ing of the pancreas and stomach, protects the l’Ebre Olive Oil Fair. areas: one in El Baix Camp and El Alta is Lo Parot, a millenarian olive Tarragonès and the other in La Ribera tree which has been preserved in d’Ebre. Siurana oil, fruity with a low excellent condition in Horta de Sant acidic content and made from Joan. There are also many other cente- Arbequina olives, can be bought from all narian or millenarian trees near the the co-operatives in the area. To honour almàsseres - as the oil mills are called in the name of the DO it is recommendable this area - where oil fresh from of the to go up to the Siurana reservoir above mill can be bought. Near Horta de Sant which stands the village of Siurana de Joan there is the Pinell de Brai Prades on the top of cliff with its Agricultural Co-operative, built in 1918 Romanesque church presided over by a by Cèsar Martinell. Its interior features beautiful image of the Virgin Mary. Many singular elliptical arches and tiles which co-operatives in the area offer guided depict different scenes associated with The co-operatives visits to get a close-up view of how the the olive harvest and oil presses. olives are made into olive oil. The one in The majority of the production cen- Cambrils, for example, has a facility in BAIX EBRE-MONTSIÀ tres of Catalan olive oil are co-oper- which a functioning oil press can be The Baix Ebre-Montsià PDO district atives and work with the olives pro- seen and which has an attached rural produces more olive oil than any other vided by their members. Many of products shop and a small museum with in Catalonia. This area in the south of these co-operatives were founded at antique presses and grindstones which Catalonia has had olive trees since the start of the 20th century basical- explains how olive oil is made. ancient times. To find out more about ly for the commercialisation of olives, the region, the best place to start is the wine and dried fruit and nuts. Some TERRA ALTA foot of the Ports de Beseit mountain of the buildings that house them are The olive tree has always been the most passes which affords a view of an jewels of Modernist architecture. characteristic tree of this county, which unbeatable landscape of olive trees. today has its own PDO. One of the sym- Near the town of Roquetes and going 14 bols of the olive oil tradition of La Terra towards the massif, there are several other centres in the area, the oil it produces comes from the Farga, Morruda and Sevillenca varieties. In addition to the co-operatives it is also worth visiting the towns in the area, such as El Pere- lló, Benifallet and finally Paüls, where a small and picturesque hermitage surrounded by olive trees can be found.

L’EMPORDÀ The production of olive oil in El Baix Empordà and L’Alt Empordà is a tradition which has been passed on from generation to generation. Even now, in many presses (and mills) in the area the traditional press process is still used. At these mills one can see how the oil is made and, in passing, buy some. At the more areas of this type. As in other mill at La Bisbal the traditional system places with an olive oil tradition, it is in of hydraulic presses which are still in the co-operatives where one can see operation can be seen, and the mill at functioning oil mills and buy oil. The Torroella de Montgrí dating from the Soldebre Co-operative, for example, 19th century continues to use the tradi- which is the largest in Catalonia, organ- tional system of press and millstone. ises guided tours and has a rural prod- Also worthy of mention are the presses ucts shop where olive oil, wine and dried at Ventalló, Pau - which is more mod- fruit and nuts are sold. Like that of the ern - Cabanes and Vilafant.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The seafood route

Fish and seafood are also part of Catalan cuisine and are the staples of the Catalans’ traditional diet. Catalonia, with its seafaring culture, has always made the most of the resources of the Medi- terranean. Fishing ports and fish markets with their own brotherhoods make up an attractive and colourful itinerary that allows the visitor to discover the indigenous and emblematic fresh fish of the Mediterranean coast and at the same time look around the most important towns on the Catalan coast.

TERRES DE L’EBRE es that are served in its restaurants are Les Cases d’Alcanar is known for its the best guarantee of the authenticity of Fish auctions age-old fishing tradition. Painted in all the town’s seafaring spirit. Also worth the colours of the rainbow, the fishing mentioning are the Tuna Gastronomic Nowadays in Catalan ports, verbal boats are an essential part of the land- Workshops which are given at L’Hospi- auctions have been replaced by scape of Les Cases, as is the maritime talet de l’Infant and the excellent electronic devices which show how facade, the fish markets and the large quality of the prawn crayfish which can the prices for the lots of fish number of beachfront restaurants. Close be enjoyed in restaurants or bought decrease rapidly. The fishermen and to Les Cases d’Alcanar is the Ebre Delta, fresh from the market. the wholesalers push the buttons on the main centre for seafood fishing in a remote control to acquire the lot the country, where it is easy to find mus- COSTA DAURADA they want at the price currently on sels, clams and oysters. One result of Further north there is Cambrils and its display on the screen. The timeta- this industry is the Delta Oyster picturesque maritime facade and, near bles of the different fish markets in Gastronomic Workshops. Also worthy of the great port of Tarragona, El Serrallo, Catalonia are almost identical. The mention is the market in Sant Carles the fishing neighbourhood par excellence auction for bluefish is usually at de la Ràpita, where fishermen from in the city, full of taverns and restaurants eight in the morning. In the after- trawlers hurriedly unload crates full of where you can try the best in sea cuisine noon they take place between 3:00 the day’s catch. Following the coastline made with fresh fish. There are towns (in L’Escala) and 4:30 (in Palamós). northwards, it is worth making a stop at that, though they lack a port, look to the Of course, the fish markets are L’Ampolla and L’Ametlla de Mar. The sea, such as El Vendrell, and whose cui- closed at weekends. hustle and bustle on the fisherman’s sine is more similar to that of the coast 16 wharf in L’Ametlla and the seafood dish- than inland areas. COSTA DEL GARRAF lie Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Vilanova i la Geltrú and Sitges are L’Estartit and Palamós, where the only towns in El Garraf that have a after fish are unloaded - starting at brotherhood of fishermen. Early in the 4:30 in the afternoon - the auction begins morning the seiner boats arrive in the and fishmongers set up their picturesque port of Vilanova loaded with bluefish stalls in the port. The visitor cannot leave (sardines, anchovies and mackerel), a the town without trying Palamós prawns type of fish noted for its high quality. in one of its restaurants or during the The boats have been out fishing during Palamós Prawn Gastronomic Workshops, the night and have to get to port before and looking in on the Fishing Museum. eight o’clock, when the first auction of Still in El Baix Empordà it is possible to the day begins. At three in the afternoon try sea urchins from January to March (in the trawlers return with fish that has Palafrugell), rockfish (in Begur, where the Brotherhoods & fish markets been thoroughly sorted; the best place Rockfish Gastronomic Workshops run from which to watch them arrive is the from mid-April to mid-June), bluefish (in Barcelona and Badalona are the two west quay. It is a good idea to follow this Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Castell-Platja places in El Barcelonès that have a up with a visit to the Roig i Toqués d’Aro and Santa Cristina d’Aro, where port and brotherhood of fishermen. Marine Curios Museum. Hooked Bluefish Cuisine events are held Very close by on the Maresme coast from mid-May to mid-June) and Norway there are seven other ports: COSTA BRAVA lobster (in Calonge-Sant Antoni). Montgat, Mataró, Arenys de Mar, Prawns from Palamós, sea urchins from Finally, L’Alt Empordà also has examples Sant Pol de Mar, Calella, Pineda de Palafrugell, anchovies from L’Escala and of towns with long fishing traditions in the Mar and Malgrat de Mar. The fish rockfish from Begur; there are many ports of L’Escala, Roses, Cadaqués, markets in each of these towns types of sea produce which have brought Port de la Selva and Llançà. The ances- mean that you can eat fresh fish fame to towns along the Costa Brava. In tors of those who today live in L’Empordà each and every day of the year. the county of La Selva, there are fishing began the art of salting fish, such as ports in Blanes, Lloret de Mar and L’Escala anchovies, a dish also prepared Tossa de Mar. And in El Baix Empordà in Cadaqués and Roses.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The rural produce route

Catalan agriculture is extraordinarily rich in fruit, vegetables and garden produce. We can be proud of having products with Geographic Protection Indication such as calçots from Valls, apples from Girona and potatoes from Prades (currently in the process of obtaining certification) and others such as ganxet white beans or rice from the Ebre Delta, also in the process of obtaining community certification as a Protected Denomination of Origin. A trip around Catalonia will enable the visitor to find out all about these products.

CALÇOT FROM VALLS RICE FROM THE EBRE DELTA AND PALS “Calçots (blanched onion shoots which Rice from the Delta has a protected DO Outstanding produce look like large leeks), the porró (a and is a traditional crop in the area. In glass jug with a long spout) and the fact, there are many things in the Delta’s Artichokes from El Baix Llobregat castellers (human castles), three things landscape and culture connected with are famous for their flavour and which have always fascinated me, come rice. One example are the traditional quality, and are currently being from the earth and make one look at the huts, whitewashed and made of wood, assessed by the Catalan Autono- heavens.” With this phrase cinema direc- bamboo, straw, clay and mud where the mous Government (Generalitat de tor Bigas Luna lauded the culture of rice growers lived. Nowadays some of Catalunya) with a view to granting L’Alt Camp. Near Valls, in L’Alt and El them have been restored, such as the them a protected geographic indi- Baix Camp, El Tarragonès and El Barraques d’en Salvador in Deltebre,as cation. Other well-known and much Baix Penedès, the Valls variety of houses for rural tourism. Rice has also prized farm produce includes turnips calçots are grown and have a Protected influenced the popular festivals and from La Cerdanya, which can be Geographical Indication. The calçot cooking of the area, which has its best bought in Puigcerdà market, peas gets its name from the way it is cultivat- calling card in rice dishes. But the Ebre and other market gardening pro- ed; the onions es calcen when they Delta is not the only place in Catalonia duce from El Maresme, cereals from are covered with earth. There is no where there are rice growers, as rice has La Segarra, chickpeas from L’Anoia better way of trying them than by been cultivated in the wetlands of El and hazelnuts from Reus. Over the participating in a calçotada, or calçot- Baix Empordà at least since the 14th past few years produce from eco- eating festival, and the famous century. However, there is no doubt that logical farms has gained prominence. Valls Calçotada is held at the end of it started much earlier than that. Its sto- 18 January. ry is told in the Ca la Pruna Museum in Pals. You can also visit the Pals Rice the town during October. On every Mill and see how rice is prepared Sunday and holiday during the and even buy some. month, a market is set up where as many as 50 tonnes of white and black variety POTATOES FROM PRADES AND BUF- buffet potatoes are sold directly by farm- FET POTATOES ers to consumers. If there is a town which is identified with potatoes, it is Prades. In the mountains EL GANXET WHITE BEANS AND SAN- about one thousand metres above sea- TA PAU KIDNEY BEANS level Prades potatoes with their One of the most emblematic products Protected Geographical Indication are from the area of El Vallès and El grown in the municipalities of Prades, Maresme are ganxet white beans, a very Fruit Capafonts, La Febró and Arbolí in El high quality variety that will soon have Baix Camp. People from Prades are a Protected Geographical Indication Catalonia has some very high qual- right when they say that their potatoes (PGI). In many towns in El Vallès, such ity fruit. Apples from Girona, for are so good you won’t forget them. They as Polinyà and Castellar del Vallès, example, have a Protected Geo- are of the Kennebec variety with thin there are fields in which this kind of graphical Indication and products skins and are extremely tasty. In white bean is grown. In Castellar, for under consideration for the same September, coinciding with the beginning example, they are grown at Can status include peaches from La of the harvest, the Day of the Potato is Casamada, one of the farmhouses with Ribera d’Ebre. Other highlights are held with a breakfast open to all and an the greatest historical and family tradi- clementines from Les Terres de omelette contest. This is a good moment tions. Another place where they can be l’Ebre, which also enjoy Protected to buy a sack, although they can also be bought is at a rural products shop in the Geographical Indication status, and bought all year round in the town’s shops Gallecs Rural Area (Espai Rural de pears from Lleida which are in the and from the Prades Agricultural Co- Gallecs). It is also worth mentioning process of acquiring their own operative. Another highly prized potato Santa Pau kidney beans, which grow in Protected Denomination of Origin. is the buffet potato grown in Orís,a volcanic earth and can be eaten in vari- town in Osona. If you want to taste and ous restaurants in the town of Santa buy them, the best thing to do is to visit Pau and its surrounding area.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The mountain and forest produce route

Anyone who visits Catalan forests will be amazed by the large quantity and quality of produce that later on can be used in cooking as they used to be used in traditional recipes. Mushrooms are among this produce; the liking of the Catalans for mushrooms is well- known and they love to pick, cook and eat them. There are many types with different uses. However, aromatic herbs, forest fruits and chestnuts are also always to be found in the Catalan woods, and a good way to find out about them so you can use them later on in cooking is to go on a route through our woodlands.

MUSHROOMS a restaurant in Berga, one of the fungi Morels, St. George’s mushrooms, and capitals of Catalonia together with Mushrooms Fairy Ring mushrooms are to be found; Montseny National Park and the Serra de at the end of summer, the spring varieties Marina. In La Cerdanya there are also a The best place to buy mushrooms in such as Chantrelle, Bleeding Milkcap, and number of establishments where you can the centre of Barcelona is the Porcini make their appearance in pine eat or buy mushrooms, especially in the Boqueria market on La Rambla. forests; and in the late autumn there are towns of Ger and Bor. In El Pallars, the There are a number of stalls in the Llenegues (Hedgehog mushrooms), Ous valleys, dense woods and mountains market where you can buy this de Reig (Caesar’s mushrooms), Negritos, mean that you are sure to find them. The much appreciated produce of the Cantharellus Lutescens (Red-Yellow Arós and Virós forests in El Pallars forests. The stalls are easily recog- Trumpets), Hygrophorus Russulas and Sobirà and the Salàs de Pallars wood- nisable because of how attractive Black Trumpets. From the Pyrenees to lands in El Pallars Jussà are good places they look with boxes full of mush- the Ebre, any forested or mountainous to go mushroom hunting. Another ideal rooms from around the country. area might be a good place to pick mush- spot is Vall de Boí, famous for its Among other varieties you can find rooms, but there are some, such as El Romanesque church. It is worth waiting truffles, one of the most prized Berguedà, where you can be sure of a for October to try mushrooms cooked in mushrooms both in Catalonia and good crop. Mushroom workshops are an infinite variety of ways. around the world. organised in Berga and Guardiola de Berguedà, including the Mushroom CHESTNUTS Festival (Festa del Bolet) which is held Together with panellets (small round at the beginning of October in the town cakes made with marzipan) and vi ran- 20 of Berga. If you want to taste them, go to ci (rancio wine), chestnuts are the most traditional product for the time of year medicinal plants around the country. around All Saints’ Day. Chestnuts grow The museum is part of the Trades of in numerous Catalan forests, for exam- Yesteryear Route developed by L’Alt ple those in Montseny and Montnegre as Urgell County Council. Also in well as in the large woodlands of La Tuixén and near the Museum is Selva. In the chestnut forest of Sant Can Farratgetes, a farmhouse that Segimon, at the foot of the Matagalls has a shop specialising in El Cadí herbs. mountains, the trees are very old; their Other interesting visits include the trunks measure more than two metres in Vilanova de Sau Fair in June, and the Forest and Land Fair diameter and have large cavities. The Sant Ponç Fair in Barcelona in May. best way to eat chestnuts is to go to a Near the end of November, the castanyada or chestnut-eating festival. RIVER FISH municipality of Vallgorguina holds Viladrau holds its Chestnut Fair during The Segre, Noguera Ribagorçana and its Forest and Land Fair which fea- the last weekend in October, and on 1st Noguera Pallaresa rivers and their tribu- tures produce and craft production November there are large castanyadas taries are the perfect habitats for river processes associated with wood- in Viladrau and Vilanova de Prades. trout. There are many different species lands. Apart from craft produce of trout, but the most common one, bred stalls, there are also demonstrations AROMATIC HERBS in fish farms like the large one in of trades, produce tasting and com- In the town of Tuixén in the valley of La Peramola next to the Oliana reservoir petitions. Vansa (Alt Urgell) stands the Trementi- and the one at Tavascan, are of the rain- naires Museum (Museu de les Tremen- bow variety. By contrast rivers contain tinaires), which since 1998 has occupied common river trout which have a slim- the ground floor of the town hall. The mer body and a large number of black Museum is devoted to the trementi- and red spots. In Les in La Vall d’Aran, naires, hard-working women who went there is a fish farm which breeds stur- to the forests in search of traditional geon, a type of fish that used to be abun- medicinal remedies and aromatic herbs dant in the rivers of Spain; the company and prepared and sold oils, remedies and sells sturgeon caviar.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The livestock produce route

Traditional Catalan cuisine has a number of recipes in which veal or pork are essential ingredients. Thanks to these products we have been able to recover old recipes and can enjoy a variety of dishes. Covered by a Quality Seal, and in the case of Pyrenean Veal in the process of gaining a Protected Geographic Indication, there is a lot that can be done with them when cooking, and it is worth taking a trip around Catalonia to find out more about our livestock.

VEAL FROM THE PYRENEES eat fodder, cereals and pulses. Once they The mountains and meadows of the have been slaughtered in slaughterhous- Labelling Catalan Pyrenees are the best place to es monitored and authorised by the raise Pyrenean veal, the only meat Regulatory Council, they are only sold Each piece of meat with the Pyrenees product in the country that has its own in establishments which are in turn Veal Protected Geographical Indica- Protected Geographical Indication. All authorised and monitored by the same tion has a label containing the logo calves of the Pyrenean Bruna breed are body. Meat with this certification can be of the geographical indication, infor- covered by this quality guarantee, as are bought from a number of establish- mation about the calf from which the Charolais and Limousine breeds and ments, including the Regulatory Board, the meat comes and the farm where crosses between them which were born the Mafriseu company in La Seu d’Urgell, it was bred, and the guarantee cer- in the Pyrenees or Pyrenean foothills, or through the Catalan Federation for tificate that attests that the produce an area which covers L’Alt Empordà, the Pyrenean Bruna, in Berga, which is complies with the requirements set L’Alta Ribagorça, L’Alt Urgell, El Ber- in contact with all the county stock- out in the regulations. The colour of guedà, La Cerdanya, La Garrotxa, El breeders’ associations in the Pyrenees. the meat ranges from pink to bright Pallars Jussà, El Pallars Sobirà, El The meat is marketed with numbered red, and the colour of the fat from Ripollès, El Solsonès and La Vall d’Aran. seals and the logo of the Geographical white to cream. Being left to mature Strolling around the farms and meadows Indication of the piece. Likewise, the for a minimum of 7 days gives it the where these calves graze, it is easy to labels on meat contain the main infor- tenderness and flavour that set it appreciate the effort made by farmers mation about the calf the meat came apart from the rest of the meats on to ensure the excellence of the final from. To see different examples of the the market. product. The cows and calves are raised Pyrenean Bruna breed, it is worth visit- 22 in the open air, they graze on grass and ing the Livestock Fair in Bellver de Cerdanya, which is held each October. foothills of Catalonia, especially in El There is also a Livestock Fair and Pallars Jussà, El Pallars Sobirà, La Alta Pyrenean Bruna Calf Show in Ribes de Ribagorça, L’Alt Urgell, La Cerdanya, Freser on the second Saturday in El Berguedà and El Ripollès. Stock- October, coinciding with the long Pilar breeders greatly appreciate the charac- holiday weekend. teristics of the breed, since it adapts very well to its environment, can climb THE PYRENEAN BRUNA COW mountains and has a gentle disposition. Catalonia’s indigenous breeds are There are now about 30,000 Bruna cows domesticated breeds of animal that have above the age of two The Ripollesa sheep a specific identity and morphological years-old in Catalonia. characteristics. In Catalonia among the The Ripollesa breed of sheep, which indigenous livestock breeds there is OSONA PORK lives in the north-west of Catalonia, the Alberes cow, the Palleresa cow, Pork is one of the most emblematic apparently originated from a cross Ripollesa, Xisqueta and Aranesa sheep, products of the county of Osona. The between the Tarasconesa sheep from the lanca or Rasquera goat and the pigs that are raised on its farms are of the central Pyrenees and the Merina Pyrenean Bruna cow. The species most excellent quality, which is why the Osona transhumant sheep, which arrived in used for production is the latter. This Porc group was formed: to consolidate the area centuries ago. Its meat, breed comes from a cross between the and promote pig breeding in this county although produced on a small scale, indigenous Pyrenean Catalan cow and of Catalonia. At present, there are only is highly regarded. the brown Alpine cattle imported from two companies in this group of Osona Switzerland at the end of the 19th and stockbreeders, but more are bound to beginning of the 20th centuries. The join. To try a dish made with Osona pork, breed originated in the Catalan there is nothing better than attending the Pyrenees and is now to be found in the Pork and Beer Festival that is held in counties in the Pyrenees and Pyrenean early October in the town of Manlleu.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The poultry route

There were roosters, capons, hens, duck and geese in recipes way back in the Middle Ages, and since then poultry has been part of traditional home cooking. The Catalan poultry sector makes up 35% of poultry production in Spain, and some of its breeds, such as the capon, have the Q Seal, a hallmark created and registered by the Department of Agriculture, Livestock and Fishing that is awarded to quality food products whose characteristics make them stand out from similar items. Capon and El Prat chicken are moreover covered by Protected Geographic Indications (PGI).

EL PRAT CHICKEN AND CAPON the farmers in the area. This can clear- Not all chickens are the same. In ly be seen at the El Prat de Llobre- Aviraut Catalonia there is an indigenous breed gat Poultry Fair, a prize-giving show that has turned into an exquisite dish: for chickens, hens and capons (roost- Ariraut is a Reus company which El Prat chicken or capon. It is an ani- ers whose crests and wattles are cut off breeds different kinds of indigenous mal that is bred as in earlier times: in and provide sweeter meat) from the roosters, hens, ducks and geese. It limited numbers, in large spaces and area and where other examples of is based at the old Vacarisses farm- fed a diet of cereals with no fat or indigenous poultry from all over the house, and there visitors can take a chemical products for 4 months. This country are also put on display. guided tour to see examples of the is why its meat is so good and appreci- Potablava chicken from El Prat, hens ated and it has earned the Protected HENS, ROOSTERS AND DUCK FROM from L’Empordà, ducks from El Geographical Indication seal. El Prat EL PENEDÈS Penedès and geese from L’Empordà, chicken, also called Potablava, is bred Vilafranca del Penedès, apart from all of which are native to Catalonia. in the Llobregat Delta and is closely being the cradle of El Penedès wines, is linked to the cultural life and identity also the capital of pedigree poultry, of of the people living in the area, some- roosters with firm meat and of Muscovy thing which has even led to its pres- duck, which are used in various dishes ence in the shape of a giant chicken in the area. The most well-known among the animals that come onto the Penedès rooster has bright black streets during Festa Major festivals in plumage (though there are also straw- El Baix de Llobregat. El Prat chicken coloured ones), and, like the Penedès 24 is also an essential part of the lives of hen, ash-blue feet. The marketing of this fowl is governed by strict breeding is poultry breeding on farms. These regulations, both in terms of the mini- free-range animals are later used to mum age at slaughter and of the ratio make some of the most typical dishes of between animals, area and feed. The the area’s cuisine, such as roast duck or Muscovy duck from El Penedès is a chicken with crayfish. Good examples variety of the well-known Barbary duck, can be found at the Poultry Cuisine adapted for quite some time to El Gastronomic Workshops that are held Penedès where it has developed its own in October in Peratallada, the closure attributes. Its plumage is mostly black of which coincides with the town’s and its main identifying characteristic Mediaeval Fair, in turn one of is that it does not make the sounds typ- the most important events ical to the majority of duck species, of its type in Catalonia, and Festival animals which is why it is called the ànec mut, at the Spring Free Range or “dumb duck”. Its meat has an exqui- Duck and Liver Gastronomic Workshops Animal imagery used in Catalan fes- site texture, especially if it is slaugh- which are run in Castelló d’Empúries. tivals includes roosters, chickens and tered when between 10 and 12 weeks There are several companies that make hens. Currently they are represented old. All three of these examples of duck by-products. Collverd, in Far by six such festival items around indigenous poultry can be seen, bought d’Empordà, offers a range of products Catalonia: the Pollastre in Plaça Palau and eaten at the Rooster Fair that is made solely from duck without any oth- in the Carme district of Olot, the held each year around Christmas in er type of meat added, such as pâtes, Pollo in El Prat de Llobregat, the Gall Vilafranca del Penedès. foie gras, cured duck ham, preserves Radulf in Borredà, the Gall in Parets and mousses. Another company in the del Vallès, the Tomasot and the POULTRY FROM L’EMPORDÀ area is Ànec de L’Empordà in Serra de Ballarica in Vilafranca del Penedès The roosters, hens, geese, and ducks Daró, while also worthy of mention is and the Poll Foll in Ripollet. They can from L’Empordà are among the fowl Mas Parés in La Selva, which has quick- be seen in action during the festa indigenous to Catalonia. In many ly made itself into a European reference major festivals in each town. municipalities one of the main activities point for foie gras.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 P Les Y R Arties E Val d’Aran

ANDORRA Arós s iró Barruera V de c s Bellver de Rialp o B Cerdanya la Torre Sort de Cabdella la Seu d’Urgell Bar Bor Adrall Senterada Martinet Pla de de Cerdanya Sant Tirs la Pobla Ossera Salàs de Segur Tuixén de Pallars Pirineus

Peramola

o Agramunt Calaf

Terres de Lleida

g LLEIDA a Sant Pere de leid les Borges Horta de L Blanques Riudebitlles

Castelldans l’Espluga la Llacuna a Calba l’Espluga el Pla del Penedès Cervià de de Francolí les Garrigues la Pobla de Cérvoles Vilafranca del Penedès Masmolets r Ulldemolins Prades Valls Alcover el Vendrell Costa Daurada Porrera Reus Falset Torredembarra A TARRAGONA Montbrió del Camp Cambrils

el Pinell de Brai Terres de l’Ebre Arnes el Perelló l’Ametlla de Mar E Tortosa M

Deltebre Amposta

Sant Carles de la Ràpita Va l e n c i a Alcanar les Cases d’Alcanar 26 FRANCE

Meranges E E S Llívia Puigcerdà Osseja Peralada el Port de la Selva Ger Vilajuïga Pau Ribes Camprodon Castelló d’Empúries de Freser Castellfollit Vilafant de la Roca el Far d’Empordà la Vall de Bianya Guardiola Besalú de Berguedà Ventalló Olot Santa Pau Berga Borredà Sant Quirze Serra de Daró Ullastret Pals de Besora Monells i Cruïlles l’Escala Manlleu Peratallada GIRONA Fonteta la Bisbal Vic d’Empordà Mont-ras Palamós Viladrau Costa Brava Catalunya Central mon Sant Segi Tagamanent Sant Fruitós de Bages Manresa Santa Eulàlia de Ronçana Caldes de Cardedeu Marganell Montbui Costa del Maresme Monestir de Granollers Montserrat Alella The Denominations of Origin routes Sant Sadurní d'Anoia The wine route Santa Fe del Penedès BARCELONA The cava route Subirats Barcelona The olive oil route Sant Pere Molanta el Prat de Llobregat Costa The produce routes del Garraf A Sitges E The seafood route Vilanova i la Geltrú S The rural produce route N The mountain and forest produce route A The livestock produce route E The poultry route N A The craft foods routes R R The sausages route E T The cheese route I The pantry route D E The routes of trades and tradition The traditional cuisine route The pastries route The markets route The food trades route The museums route 27 The sausages route

The tradition of pork butchering figures prominently in our culinary culture. Whether cured or cooked, with different and varied names and shapes, sausages made of pork —fuets, somalles, bulls, bisbes—are famed and appreciated everywhere. The most outstanding is the Vic llonganissa PGI, the crème de la crème of Catalan sausages. A trip around Osona, La Cerdanya, El Pallars Subirà and Els Pallars Jussà, El Vallès, El Ripollès and La Garrotxa will give the visitor greater insight into this emblematic product. Then of course there is the sausage made from lamb to be found in El Pallars and L’Alta Ribagorça: girella.

OSONA CERDANYA La Plana de Vic has the right climate for In La Cerdanya typical sausages include Kinds of sausages drying out its famous llonganissa pork llonganisses, fuet, white, liver or black sausage, a product which has obtained bull and bisbe, plus cansalada (pork Most of the sausages you will find its own Protected Geographical Indi- fat), cured ham and pans de fetge (pork in Catalonia are made from pork, cation (PGI). Osona has a longstanding liver pâté). The latter can be recognised but there are several exceptions tradition of raising livestock and breed- by its round shape and by the fact that such as girella, a sausage made with ing pigs, and the preparation of llonga- it is covered with a thin film of pig intes- lamb and which is very popular in El nissa goes back to the Mediaeval period. tine. There are many places where these Pallars and L’Alta Ribagorça. The To see how sausages are produced, you products can be bought. In Bellver de craft producers association of El can visit some of the twenty production Cerdanya, for example, there is Cal Vallès Oriental also offers emu fuet, centres that form part of the PGI in the Jaume, where pa de fetge is the leading made by a company in Granollers county. To buy llonganissa and other craft product. Near Bellver de Cerdanya, that produces meat, eggs and deli- sausages made in the area, such as in Martinet, it is a good idea to shop at catessen items from emus. somalla, fuet, xoriço, catalana and Embotits Turet, whose products are bull, it is worth going for a stroll around popular throughout the county. To Vic, a town with excellent shopping round off the trip, a stroll through facilities, and calling in at establishments Estamariu, in the neighbouring county such as Ca la Teresona, Can Solà, Can of L’Alt Urgell, is a must. Of the best sou- Vilada, Can Valeri, El Rebost d’en Pau venirs you can take away from this town (in the Municipal Market), La Casa Riera are its craft sausages, which can be 28 Ordeix and La Casa Sendra. bought at Cal Teixidó. EL PALLARS the calling cards of the area’s Pork has since ancient times been a basic cuisine. Llonganisses is the food for people living in the mountains. most well known, but other Xolís is made from pork and is found in pork sausages such as fuet, the Lleida Pyrenees; it is a dry sausage bull and botifarra are also popular. The made from meat and a small bit of pork main production centres are the towns fat, seasoned with salt and black pepper of La Garriga and Aiguafreda. and cured. It can be bought at Can Alfons in La Vall Fosca, and at La Torre de EL RIPOLLÈS Cabdella, where you can also find the In El Ripollès there are still a fair num- traditional secallona, the little sister of ber of craft sausage makers spread all xolís. Also made and eaten in L’Alta over the county. In Camprodon, for Ribagorça is girella, which is made with example, you can shop in the famous lamb giblets, cansalada, pork, rice, bread, Can Xec. Good products are also sold in Production egg, black pepper, garlic, cinnamon, salt Ribes de Freser, Planoles, Sant Joan and parsley packed in lamb intestines and de les Abadesses and Ripoll. Sausages have their origin in the served fried in breadcrumbs or with a need to preserve meat. This is done sauce. It can be bought at Embotits LA GARROTXA by mixing meat from different parts Pociello and Casa Aubarell in La Pobla In 1993, the Sala family from Cas- of the pig or other animals, season- de Segur; at Ca l’Ubach and La Casa Boté tellfollit de la Roca celebrated their ing it in a variety of ways, packing in Rial, and in Sort market. 150th anniversary as sausage makers. it in intestines and finally drying or They thought it would be a good idea to boiling it. There are some sausages EL VALLÈS ORIENTAL set up a small museum to record the his- that are made almost all over Despite industrialisation, the county of tory and development of meat preserva- Catalonia, such as botifarra, but El Vallès Oriental has not lost its farm- tion in Catalonia and La Garrotxa. There some areas have their own charac- ing and livestock culture nor, as a result, is a shop in the Museum where you can teristic sausage. the trade of pork butcher. The prepara- try and buy famed La Garrotxa sausages tion of sausages continues to be one of such as paltruc.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The cheese route

Catalonia is home to a wide variety of cheeses. Fresh cheeses include mató, which is common throughout most of the country, and recuit, traditionally associated with L’Empordà. There are also plenty of goat and cow cheeses, and to a lesser degree sheep cheeses, some of which become pastor or shepherd’s cheeses. The tradition of tupi cheese is still maintained while new forms of preparation (preserved in oil, wrapped in herbs, etc) are on the up. The world of gastronomy, with chefs to the forefront, is giving them very special attention.

ALT URGELL AND CERDANYA with liquor in a container called a The area of El Cadí and the counties of tupina), and also Castell-llebre mató or Blue cheese L’Alt Urgell and La Cerdanya are known cottage cheese. Higher up in the town of for their dairy industries, the most Ossera, cheeses called Serrat Gros, Lo At El Molí de la Llavina near important in the Pyrenees. The Co- Pebrat d’Ossera and El Tupí d’Ossera Centelles in Osona, blue cheese is operative of El Cadí, in La Seu d’Urgell, are made in the Cal Codina craft work- produced using craft techniques. is one of the organisations that every day shop. The next stop is in Adrall at the Next to the production area you can collects the Friesian cow milk produced Mas d’Eroles dairy, which lays on guid- visit a functioning water mill where by local stockbreeders to turn it into ed tours to explain how cured cow’s bread is still made as it was cen- cheese and butter that is distributed cheese is made. In Bar, a craft goat’s turies ago. throughout Europe. Cadí butter and cheese is made and marketed under the Urgélia cheese are made following the brand name of Formatges Baridà. It is production processes laid down by the not difficult to find the workshop and the DOP L’Alt Urgell and La Cerdanya.In herd of goats which provide the milk in addition to the PDO, the Craft Cheese the town. In Músser, in La Cerdanya, is Craft Food (Artesania Alimentària de the L’Orri company which makes goat’s Formatges Artesanals) quality seal is cheese. You can also visit El Molí d’en awarded to some craft producers. In Pons (Pons’s Mill) in Prullans and the Peramola there is La Casa de la Penella, workshop in Meranges, where the typ- where they produce cured cheese, tupi ical Pyrenean serrat sheep cheese is cheese (so-called because it is made produced and which families used to 30 from the fermentation of goat cheese make for their own consumption. BERGUEDÀ AND BAGES Monastery market. Finally it is Even though they do not have their worth going to Gironella to dis- own denominations of origin, El cover Blancafort cheeses, also Berguedà and El Bages are also impor- made by La Casa Manudells. tant cheese production areas and ideal places to visit the manufacturers, some GARROTXA AND EMPORDÀ of which have the Formatges Artesans Production of traditional cheese from the or Craft Cheese seal. When in the area it volcanic area of La Garrotxa was once is worth visiting Formatgeries Artesanes abandoned long ago, but then the rise of del Berguedà in the small town of Quar. tourism suggested it might be a good With a prior reservation, you can visit the idea to start making La Garrotxa cheese Fairs workshops and see the whole process of again. One example is pell florida cheese, manufacturing soft, cured and mató or made from pasteurised goat’s milk, The Pyrenean Craft Cheese Fair, cottage cheese. In Borredà, a visit to curdled for at least two hours and left which is held as part of the Sant Formatges la Bauma is recommended. to mature for over three weeks. There Ermengol Fair in La Seu d’Urgell on In addition, in Casserres there is La is no better way of trying it than by the penultimate weekend in October, Casa Manudells, which is part of the visiting Mas Claperol in Sant Feliu de attracts craft cheese makers from all Goat Dairy Farmers of El Berguedà asso- Pallerols. Recuit (a type of cottage along the Pyrenees (Catalonia, ciation. This is a small dairy farm where cheese) is a typical dairy product in the Aragon, the Basque Country and you can see goats and, depending on the province of Girona and has a Productes Navarre). More than a hundred dif- day, cheese production. Just to the south de Empordà guarantee seal. It should ferent kinds of cheeses can be tried in the county of El Bages there is the not be confused with mató cottage at the show. The main event at the town of Marganell, which is the cottage cheese even though it is also eaten as Fair is the craft cheese contest that is cheese town par excellence. This dairy a dessert. Must-visits in L’Empordà organised by types. Each type makes product is obtained by letting milk cur- include La Nuri d’Ullastret, El Recuit up a section: mató, fresh cheese, dle. Marganell and the town of Sant de Fonteta, Recuits de L’Empordà in cow cheese, sheep cheese, goat Cristòfol produce the famous cottage Peralada, and Recuits Lluïsa in Mont- cheese and tupi cheese. cheese that is sold in the Montserrat ras.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The pantry route

Traditionally, the pantry has been of supreme importance in Catalan masies or farmhouses. Even now we cannot do without this storage area for foodstuffs. Thus in the pantry you can store honey, jam and marmalade, dried fruit and nuts, liqueurs, preserved foods, etc. Catalan honey bears a Quality Seal and other products are holders of Protected Denomination of Origin hallmarks, such as Reus hazelnuts, or belong to a Geographical Denomination, such as Catalan ratafía liquor (in the process of being recognised).

PRESERVED FOODS, JAM AND MAR- na), and at L’Aranyonet in La Pobla de MALADE Lillet (Berguedà). Cremat Canning changes or accentuates the In ports, and especially in Palafrugell, flavour of products, and keeps them in HONEY to warm up after a day’s fishing and a good state for a long time. It is done The world of honey is full of history and prolong conversations people used throughout Catalonia, but perhaps is culture. It is made in many places in to drink the classic cremat made more traditional in the mountains. The Catalonia, but the town of Perelló, in the with Cuban rum brought from range of preserved foods that can be county of El Baix Ebre, is where more Spain’s colonies. Cremat is prepared found in Bor in El Tupí de La Cerdanya, honey is produced than anywhere else in by heating rum and sugar with a for example, is extraordinary; it has Catalonia. This is because of Mel Múria, stick of cinnamon, lemon peel and been making preserved foods with local a company which has for five generations coffee beans. Then it is flambéed ingredients from the mountains for been working in the production of hon- until the flames burn off the alcohol. twenty years. At the other end of the ey, pollen, propolis, and royal jelly. The best time to try it is during the Catalan Pyrenees in Barruera there is Another town where honey plays a sig- traditional havaneres singing in El Tupinet de La Vall de Boí, a business nificant role is Arnes, where a major Calella de Palafrugell in July. that makes preserved forest fruits and honey fair is held in March. Other honey mushrooms, aromatic oil, marmalade fairs are held in Crespià in February, in and jam. This produce can also be Colera in June, and in Ribes de Freser found at Cal Benet in Alpens (Ri- in September. One of the most important pollès), in the Cal Sabater rural prod- events takes place in Barcelona around ucts shop in Santa Pau (La Garrotxa), 11th May, St. Ponç’s Day, when beekeep- 32 at Confitures Renart in La Gleva (Oso- ers from all over Catalonia come together. Mel d’Antany, in Santa Eulàlia de MALVASIA Ronçana in El Vallès Oriental, sells hon- Among the wines that are made in El ey and all types of beekeeping-related Garraf, there is one, malvasia, which is products. traditional to Sitges. It is a sweet wine which natives of Sitges usually drink with RATAFIA dessert. There are a number of varieties, Catalan ratafia liqueur bears the Cata- but the most popular and the one which lan Ratafía Geographical Denomina- everyone considers to be the true malva- tion hallmark. It is made with green nuts sia is the one made in L’Hospital Sant Jam and aromatic herbs which are left to mac- Joan Batista. Because it is rare and in erate. Afterwards it is decanted and sug- danger of disappearing, Sitges malvasia In L’Horta de Lleida, where all kinds ar, alcohol and water are added to get an has been chosen along with ganxet white of fruits are cultivated, there are alcohol content of between 26% and beans as one of the first two bulwarks in numerous businesses which spe- 29%. In Santa Coloma de Farners, the Catalonia of the Slow Food International cialise in jams. All over L’Horta there Ratafia Fair is held in November attend- Association. are rural tourism houses and farm ed by all the commercial brands in schools where you can learn to Catalonia and features set meals and tast- HAZELNUTS make delicious marmalade, food ings. There is also a Ratafia Fair in The region of El Camp de Tarrago- preserved in syrup and jams just like Besalú in December. However, one of na has the largest concentration of hazel- Catalan grandmothers did. the best places to try it is Olot, in the Can nut trees in Catalonia. As early as 1300, Xena, Orfeó Popular and Centre Catòlic Plaça Prim in Reus was the centre of an bars. The oldest producers include the important market in which hazelnuts were Jaume Bosch Distillery in Sant Quirze the leading product. In the 19th century, de Basora, and it also has a longstand- phylloxera destroyed the vineyards of the ing tradition in the county of La Noguera, region, and hazelnut trees were planted in where a good example is the Ratafía dels their place. Today the Reus hazelnut has Raiers (Rafter’s Ratafia) made La Casa its own protected DO. In August, the Portet in La Pobla de Segur. Hazelnut Fair is held in Riudoms.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The traditional cuisine route

Traditional Catalan cuisine has a rich historical tradition documented as far back as the 14th century in the Llibre de Sent Soví. Since then Catalonia has become a culinary model and dishes such as escudella and carn d’olla, xató, suquet de peix, coca de recapte and pa amb tomaquet are widely recognised. The quality and great variety of our produce together with the efforts made by so many chefs, both well-known and anonymous, to preserve this culinary treasure means that we can enjoy marvellous traditional recipes and some of the most exquisite and superb food in Europe.

RICE AND PASTA rabbit, chicken and botifarra (raw pork The Snail Gathering All over Catalonia you can find typical rice sausage). Moving on to pasta, there are out- dishes. In the Ebre Delta for example, you standing traditional dishes such as cannelloni, can try black rice, paella or rossejat (rice noodle casserole and fideus rossejats or Traditionally, snails have been the per- cooked in fish broth) in the Restaurant fideuada (noodles and seafood). fect excuse for meeting old friends. l’Estany and during the Gastronomic When someone had been away for Workshops held in July at Deltebre. In the SALADS AND STARTERS a while, in Lleida seeing them again same town the rice harvest festival is held in Esqueixada de bacallà (salted cod, toma- was marked by a feast of snails. Lots June and the planting festival in September. to, onion, green peppers, olives, oil and salt) of them are held In the counties of Other good opportunities to try these dish- and empedrat (white beans, cod, egg, La Noguera, Urgell, Segarra and es are the Rice Workshops held in Amposta tomato, onion, olives, oil and vinegar) are Segrià. The most famous is the Aplec in October and Rossejat Day celebrated two of the classic starters in Catalan cui- del Cargol (Snail Gathering) in Lleida, around 20th August in L’Ametlla de Mar. sine. By contrast, xató (a salad dressed with which takes place in May. In Pals there are lots of restaurants serving a pepper, garlic, oil and vinegar sauce) is the dark rice of L’Empordà, especially dur- made only in El Garraf and L’Alt and El Baix ing the Pals and Rice Cuisine Workshops. Penedès. A good xató needs endives, onion, The town also hosts the Mediterranean Rice salted anchovies, cod, tuna, tomato and Fair in June. Special mention should be made nyora peppers and is often accompanied of the famous parellada rice dish with grilled by trout. From January to March there fish and meat from the Restaurant Les Set are numerous xató-eating gatherings in Portes in Barcelona. In the Pyrenees it is Vilanova i la Geltrú, El Vendrell, 34 worth trying mountain rice, made with pork, Vilafranca del Penedès and Sitges. These towns also run The Xató Route, along which the escudella-eating gathering held in Pineda you can go sightseeing and try this very de Mar (Maresme) in February. Catalan dish in the best restaurants. FISH VEGETABLES AND PULSES The king of Catalan fish dishes is suquet, Traditionally breakfast in the county of La which used to be made onboard ships by stew- Cerdanya was trinxat, made with cabbage ing freshly-caught fish. It can be tried in many and potatoes and a little cansalada (pork places but especially at the Peix Calero Suquet fat). Nowadays it is eaten either for lunch or Competition which is held in February in for dinner. Trinxat is served in a number of L’Ametlla de Mar. Another type of seafood establishments in the county and at the stew is ranxo, made with the fish most diffi- Trinxat Festival in Puigcerdà. Other tradi- cult to sell in the market. Reballa, by contrast, tional vegetable dishes include escalivada is an assortment of fried fish which is named (baked peppers, aubergines and onions) and after that part of the day’s catch which was samfaina (fried aubergines, courgette, assigned to each crew member. Mention tomatoes and onions). should also be made of all cremat, a fish stew which can be found among other places at the Mixed fish and meat dishes SOUPS Peixerot restaurant in Vilanova i la Geltrú. The most traditional soup in Catalonia is Given the great contrast of land- escudella (broth) and carn d’olla (meat MEAT scapes and the enormous variety of from the broth). It is traditional to serve lav- In addition to the typical botifarra with white produce in Catalonia, there are many ish portions of both on Christmas Day. Olla beans, a highlight is cap i pota (boiled head typical traditional Catalan cuisine aranesa, a broth which is made in the Vall and trotters, normally veal) which is common dishes which perfectly combine meat d’Aran, can be eaten in the Casa Irene in Manresa and throughout the county of El and fish. Highlights include chicken restaurant in Arties. Certain days are Bages. Nor should we forget pig trotters, which and prawn crayfish which comes marked on the Catalan festival calendar for can be tried at the Pork and Beer Festival held from the Costa Brava, and meatballs trying some of the country’s most tradition- every October in Manlleu, duck with pears with cuttlefish. al soups, such as Olla Barrejada Day in and veal with mushrooms, dishes served in January in Artesa de Lleida (Segrià) and many restaurants in inland Catalonia.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The pastries route

Exciting dessert cuisine is also an important part of the Catalan cookbook. It features products as famed as torró from Agramunt (with a Protected Geographical Denomination), and catànies from Vilafranca del Penedès, and others such as neules, panellets (both with a Guaranteed Traditional Speciality seal) plus pa de pessic from Vic and the carquinyolis and borregos of El Vallès. In addition there are coques and tortells to be found all over Catalonia which are eaten on special days and at traditional festivals. Finally there is chocolate with its long, rich tradition and highly creative present.

AGRAMUNT TORRÓ county of L’Alt Urgell. In addition to a All Saints’ panallets When Christmas is coming the locals in wide variety of specialist products such Agramunt in the county of L’Urgell up as neules, cubanos, vanos, tulipes and their work rate. That is because this town xiquitillos, the facility also produces Panallets are eaten with roast chest- is home to the only torró (a type of Menairons del Pla, a very traditional nuts and sweet potatoes on the nougat) with a Protected Geographical dessert in the area. The workshop may night of 31st October. The base for Indication in Catalonia. Agramunt tor- be visited by prior appointment. these cakes is made with sugar, raw ró is made from a careful mixture of almonds, a pinch of grated lemon hazelnuts or almonds, sugar, honey and VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS CATÀNIES peel and a small amount of boiled egg white and is sold in round or rectan- In addition to being the wine capital of El potato or sweet potato. Small por- gular bars coated in pa d’àngel (unleav- Penedès, Vilafranca is also well-known for tions of the dough are moulded into ened bread). It is worth visiting factories making exquisite desserts: catànies, which a variety of shapes which are then such as Torrons R. Vicens, Torrons Roig, are caramelised almonds coated in white covered with pine seeds, toasted Torrons Artesans Fèlix and Torrons chocolate and dusted with dark chocolate almonds, hazelnut, coconut, choco- Lluch to see how the torró is made. powder. At Bombons Cudié, a family craft late, crystallised cherries, etc. to business which has been making catànies make the various types. Then they EL PLA DE SANT TIRS NEULES since 1986, visitors can look in on the work- are baked in the oven and are ready Even though neules (rolled wafers) are shop and buy this delicious product. to be eaten with a good sweet wine. usually associated with Christmas, for In season, they can be bought in all quite some time now they have been eat- TARRAGONA AND LES GARRIGUES the pastry shops in Catalonia, en all year round. Traditional craft neules ORELLETES AND MENJARBLANC although some people prefer to 36 are made in El Pla de Sant Tirs in the Orelletes are fried ear-shaped coques make them at home. (flat cakes) made with a dough variety there are also soft ones and at consisting of flour, eggs, sugar and salt, Christmas time they produce torró de coriander stock, aniseed, cinnamon, and borrego, a surprising fusion with Xixona lemon and orange peel. They are wide- torró. You can buy them at the Domingo ly found especially in the province of Vila and Ricós pastry shops. Both pas- Tarragona and in Les Borges Blanques. tries are similar to bisblencs, tradition- They can be bought in the pastry shop al in La Bisbal de l’Empordà and made Pepi in Ulldemolins, and at Poy the con- from marzipan, almonds, pine seeds and fectioner’s in Reus, where you can also cabell d’àngel (calabash flesh and buy the town’s typical pastry, menjar- syrup). They can be bought in the Sans blanc, made from almonds. Bisbalenc pastry shop in La Bisbal. Crema catalana EL VALLÈS CARQUINYOLIS AND BOR- VIC PA DE PESSIC Crema catalana is now so wide- REGOS Pa de pessic (a type of sponge cake) is spread that it is no longer possible Though eaten all over Catalonia, they popular all over Catalonia but especially to trace it to a particular location. are especially prominent in El Vallès. In in Vic. It used to be the tradition to carry Years ago the tradition was to make Caldes de Montbui, for example, car- a cake in the town’s patron saint proces- this dessert on Saint Joseph’s Day, quinyolis have been made with eggs, sions which would afterwards be given out 19th March, and it was the aunt, milk, sugar, flour and almonds for more to those present. This cake was a constant grandmother or unmarried sister than a century and can be bought from source of temptation and because people who prepared it. This custom is now the Alvero pastry shop. Borregos, a two grabbed small bits (pessics) of it before long gone, however, and crema cata- hundred year-old pastry with a pretty time it became known as “el pa que es lana is eaten all year round and as odd name, are also made using flour, menja a pessics” or “bread eaten in bits”. the dessert for any meal. It is served sugar, butter, aniseed and anis. The pas- The peculiar thing in Vic is that if it is in small earthenware dishes with try shops of Cardedeu always stock made in the proper way, the egg whites burnt, caramelised sugar on top. them and they have reworked the tradi- are beaten with willow twigs and not with tional recipe to create curious variations: a traditional whisk. You can buy it in nu- in addition to the traditional crunchy merous pastry shops in the centre of Vic.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The markets route

Strolling around the markets to be found all over Catalonia is a good way of finding out about the country and its customs and of discovering and comparing each town and city’s local and traditional products. Markets have always been a very important part of day-to-day life in towns and cities. There are many markets around Catalonia, but some of them are already on the tourist route: the Municipal Markets of Barcelona, Vic, Sant Feliu de Guíxols and La Seu d’Urgell are good examples.

MARKETS IN BARCELONA Encants, it is worth taking the Barcelona Weekly markets By taking a stroll around the city’s neigh- City Council’s guided tour, which lasts an bourhoods you will get to see lots of mar- entire morning. kets. The most popular is La Boqueria, the In Catalonia every town has its week- leading market in Barcelona. It stands on VIC MARKET ly market. The one in Sort, held on the Rambla and the best in fruit and veg- This market, mentioned as far back as Tuesdays, is very old; it was granted etables is carefully displayed on its stalls. 875 AD, is set up on Tuesdays and a licence in 1818 by Ferran VII. Other There are some pretty unusual stalls, such Saturdays in the Plaça Major. However, outstanding markets are the one in as the mushroom ones and one for edible the annual appointment in Vic is the Reus, held on Mondays and insects. Very near the Cathedral lies the Mercat del Ram (Palm Market). It is held Saturdays in the recently refurbished oldest market in Barcelona, Santa on Palm Saturday in Holy Week and is so Central Market. In Valls the market Caterina, recently remodelled with its named because on this day the Plaça takes place on Wednesdays and highlight being its brightly coloured mosa- Major and Carrer Verdaguer are filled Saturdays. There is one in Masnou ic tiled roof. On the left of the Eixample with stalls selling palms and laurels in a on Tuesdays and historical records there is the market of Sant Antoni, which range of decorative styles and shapes. tell us that as early as the Thirties is of great architectural and historic val- stalls were set up every Tuesday on ue. It was built on the site of an open-air LA SEU D’URGELL MARKET the Camí Ral or highroad on the spot market opposite one of the city gates. On On Tuesdays and Saturdays La Seu where the current Plaça del Mercat Sunday mornings an antiquarian and sec- d’Urgell features a spectacular show: now stands. ond-hand book market is held there. To its market. More than one hundred stalls find out about other markets, such as La are set up all over the old part of the 38 Concepció, Sant Andreu, Galbany and Els town where you can buy the freshest of farm produce surrounded by arches, years this market has been the place arcades and capitals which call to mind where the county’s farmers and stock- the Mediaeval period. breeders meet to negotiate prices for their goods and discuss common issues. SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS MARKET Sant Feliu de Guíxols is right in the GRANOLLERS MARKET heart of the Costa Brava and is a popu- One of the fundamental characteristics lar town for many reasons: its long beach, of Granollers has been and still is its the pretty Porta Ferrada monastery, the traditional Thursday market, document- Modernist houses scattered around the ed since 1040 AD. Many of the town’s streets of the town, and its maritime streets and squares have been or are Medieval shopping facade. In the middle of this natural and used for it, such as Plaça de l’Oli, Plaça architectural heritage it is also a good de les Olles and Plaça dels Cabrits, which Most of the weekly markets in Cata- idea to visit the Plaça del Mercat, where are still to be found in the town, and lonia date back to the Middle Ages. To the farmers from the area around Sant Plaça del Bestiar, Plaça del Gra and commemorate this, once a year some Feliu de Guíxols sell their produce. On Plaça dels Porcs, which have now disap- Catalan towns and villages hold a mar- Sunday mornings, there is also a market peared. Farm and livestock produce can ket which recreates the Mediaeval look in the Passeig where you can find just be bought there. and sells Mediaeval-style produce. about anything. Some of the most famous are the ones TÀRREGA, ARTESA DE SEGRE AND at Guimerà, which is held in the first TORROELLA DE MONTGRÍ MARKET REUS MARKETS ten days in August; at Batea, at the Dominated by Montgrí Castle, the old No less important are the markets at start of July; at Corbera de Llobregat, part of Torrella de Montgrí consists of Tàrrega, Artesa de Segre and Reus. in the middle of July; at Peratallada,at narrow, disorderly streets around the Every Monday morning in Tàrrega, you the beginning of October; and the one gates in the city walls, the parish church can buy fruit and vegetables from the stalls that is part of Medieval week at and the Palau Reial (Royal Palace). On set up in the centre. Artesa’s weekly mar- Montblanc around 23rd April or St. Mondays the market is set up in the Plaça ket is held on Sundays, while Reus mar- George’s Day, St. George being the Major and its surrounding streets. For ket is open on Mondays and Saturdays. patron saint of Catalonia.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The food trades routes

Catalonia has historically been linked to the most diverse of culinary trades. Many of the masters in these trades have achieved recognition for their work with the Food Craft (Artesania Alimentària) seal, and the quality and attributes of their products make them stand out from the rest. The craftspeople who make cheese, marmalade and ham, bread, the pork butchers, delicatessen specialists and so on, most of whom hold the Craft Master diploma, have preserved this important tradition and also recognition for their products around the country.

CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY MAKERS combinations of chocolates and extraor- Fishermen in the Delta Cacao came to Spain in 1527 as part of dinary desserts made to order. The the cargo of one of the expeditions to the Escribà family is famous for its Easter New World. Since then it has had a pres- mones (figurines) and Christmas logs. In After Galicia, Catalonia comes se- ence in European culinary culture. Today Bordils there is the Can Xapa confec- cond in the table of mollusc produc- there are many master chocolate makers tioner’s; in Mataró, Claudi Uñó, in tion and fish farming in Spain, and who have reinvented cacao with premi- Lleida, Pastisseria Prats; the Miró pastry the place where the most produc- um quality products and a large dose of shop in Castellterçol, and La Roca in tion takes place is the Ebre Delta. The imagination. Enric Rovira, who has a Ripoll. Also worthy of mention is the Aula fishermen can be seen at work in El workshop in Castellbell i el Vilar and Chocovic, in Gurb, which runs courses, Goleró, the port of El Fangar, at the a shop in Barcelona, is a young talent in and the Espai Sucre restaurant school in river mouth and on the salt flats. If the art of working with chocolate; high- Barcelona. you want to buy, try the fishmongers lights include his famous bómboles (dried in Sant Carles de la Ràpita where for fruit and nuts covered with chocolate), BAKERS many years the town’s inhabitants his Barcelona collections (using designs There is a bakery on just about every have been purchasing, among oth- taken from Puig i Cadafalch’s paving and street corner, but there are not that many er things, freshly caught clams, venus Gaudí’s irregularly patterned mosaics) who still use craft techniques. Some that clams, snails and mussels. and Concept (inspired by the planets of do are in the Pyrenees, such as the Fleca the solar system). Another fine example de Ger in Ger de Cerdanya, while oth- of this new generation is Oriol Balaguer. ers are in Lleida, such as the Forn Serra. In his workshop cum store in Carrer You can also find them in the towns of 40 Morales you can find lots of varieties and Hostalets d’en Bas, Rupià and Sant Boi de Lluçanès. But the must-visit foodstuffs was cod. Generation after gen- event for tasting coques is FiraCóc, held eration of housewives have added to the in Tàrrega in May. More than twenty bak- number of recipes featuring cod: with ers from all over the county put their potatoes, with rice, with samfaina, in tins, coques on show in the municipal market made into bunyols (balls of cod in bat- where a traditional bakery is recreated ter), in brandade, in omelettes, etc. In and kids can learn how to make bread. Barcelona you can buy it from Baca- llaneria Gomà in the Boqueria market; DELICATESSEN SPECIALISTS from Bacallaneria Tarrés, in Mercat de la The meat industry ranges from large Llibertat, or from La Casa del Bacalao, in enterprises down to small craft deli- Carrer Comtal. In Argentona there is the All Saints means chestnuts catessen specialists. It is not difficult to Bacallaneria Blanca Coll and in the munic- find cansaladeries (pork butchers) ipal market in Vilanova i la Geltrú, In the autumn in many towns and vil- which make traditional quality embotits where cod is used to garnish xató salad, lages around Catalonia you can still (sausages) in El Berguedà, La Garrotxa, there are a number of cod fishmongers. see chestnut sellers, women who L’Empordà, La Segarra, in Les Terres de roast and sell chestnuts and other l’Ebre, etc. At Embotits Vilarrassa in Olot, SPOON MAKERS seasonal produce in the streets. for example, they breed their own pigs to Box-wood is the material of choice for Normally they set up shop in a small ensure they have the raw material for making kitchen utensils, and in particu- wooden hut where they have their their embotits. Casa Badia, in Tremp, spe- lar for making wooden spoons. They are brazier, a metal skillet and the cones cialises in traditional embotits from El used in the kitchens of lots of houses and made of newspaper that they put the Pallars, such as xolís and girella. The restaurants around Catalonia and for chestnuts in before giving them to embotit shows held in Puig-reig in January many years have been made in various the customer. The stalls are only out and in Bescanó in March are a good places around the country, especially in and about in the autumn and winter chance to try and buy these products. La Garrotxa. In Tortellà there are still a and especially around All Saints’ Day, number of establishments where visitors which is when the castanyada (chest- COD FISHMONGERS can see spoon makers at work and buy nut) festival is celebrated. Not that long ago Lent meant seven weeks spoons, forks and other utensils made of of fasting, and one of the most prized box-wood, or in some cases of clay.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 The museums route

Museums are one of the expressions of a country’s culture and one of its best display cases. Visiting them enables us to find out more about the history of Catalonia and its traditions and customs. Some of Catalonia’s more than three hundred museums are connected with cuisine. It is worth while travelling around the country to visit some of them, such as the Wine Museum in Vilafranca del Penedès, the Chocolate Museum in Barcelona, the Olive Oil and Rural World Museum in Castelldans (county of Les Garrigues), the Sausage Museum in Castellfollit de la Roca (La Garrotxa) and the flour mill at Castelló d’Empúries (L’Empordà).

MUSEU DE L’EMBOTIT (SAUSAGE be tasted and souvenirs related to MUSEUM) embotits and the county can be bought. In the picturesque town of Castellfollit de la Roca in La Garrotxa, famed for MUSEU DE LA XOCOLATA (CHOCO- being sited on top of a basalt rock cliff, LATE MUSEUM) there is a museum exclusively dedicat- The history of chocolate, its nutritional ed to the history and manufacture of value, its medicinal and aphrodisiac embotits. In 1993 the Sala family cele- properties and the different ways of brated the 150th anniversary of the first preparing it are some of the things which tax permit granted for embotit produc- are to be found in the rooms of the tion. To mark the occasion the Salas, who Chocolate Museum in Barcelona.In are still in the preserved meat industry, addition to the exhibition rooms where fitted out a facility right in the middle of visitors can see chocolate-related objects the town in which to set up a small muse- and photographs, the Museum also fea- um. The Museum contains all sorts of tures a workshop which provides ses- tools used during those 150 years for pro- sions in making chocolate figures and ducing meat, old machinery, ancient pho- where Museum guides show how to tographs of the generations of employ- work, draw and write with chocolate and ees of the company, and some dioramas make small mones (traditional Easter which represent the old process. Inside figurines). Visitors can also take part in the Museum there is a small shop where tasting sessions and call in at the shop 42 the famous embotits of La Garrotxa can cum café where it is certainly worth trying and buying chocolate from a wide ent ways humankind has used to mill variety of places. wheat since it was first grown in Neolithic times up to our own day. ECOMUSEU-LA FARINERA (THE FLOUR MILL ECO-MUSEUM) MUSEU DE L’OLI I EL MÓN RURAL (OLIVE If you want to see a functioning flour mill OIL AND RURAL WORLD MUSEUM) and find out about how flour is made Castelldans stands in the heart of the using traditional methods and systems, county of Les Garrigues and is well- then it is worth your while going to the known for the quality of the protected flour mill at Castelló d’Empúries. It is denomination of origin olive oil that is housed in an originally Medieval building produced there. It is also home to the The Montferrer which stands next to the millpond irriga- Olive Oil and Rural World Museum which flour mill tion ditch. This watercourse rises in is on the site of an old olive oil mill and Vilanova de la Muga, and when it gets has on display tools, instruments and In L’Alt Urgell in the town of Mont- to Castelló d’Empúries runs through the utensils used in the growing of olive trees ferrer stands the old Farinera, a flour moat of the Mediaeval wall until it reach- and in the olive oil industry. Also exhib- mill from the turn of the last centu- es the Farinera millpond where the fall in ited are collections of working tools and ry which has been turned into a small the water is used to operate the flour mill. utensils which since ancient times have museum. The most characteristic Inside the mill there is machinery from been used by the peasant farmers of Les feature of the machinery inside it is the start of the last century in a perfect Garrigues. After visiting the Museum it is that it all worked off hydroelectric state of repair, most of it made of melis a good idea to look round the town, power. The mill is on the Alt Urgell (a resinous pine wood) and Flanders and presided over by its church dedicated to old trades route. Galician pine. The star of the Museum is Our Lady of the Assumption which has a a 1905 Francis hydraulic turbine which neo-classical facade and a square bell used to produce the energy which oper- tower. ated the machines. Visitors to La Farinera can find out about wheat, go through the LES BORGES BLANQUES PARC TEMÀ- Museum following the process of turning TIC DE L’OLI (OLIVE OIL THEME PARK) wheat into flour, and discover the differ- On the outskirts of the county town,

What you just can’t miss

The world’s biggest press Barcelona room. On display are extraor- donated both by the Sala Riera You will find it in the Olive Oil Theme Park at dinarily beautiful and original chocolate embotits company and by ancestral Les Borges Blanques. It is a Roman press, figures and mones. The items are constantly homes around the county. They are all in dif- also called a bar or sixty press. Its size is the being restocked as they are part of a number ferent styles and date from the 1800s. most characteristic and exceptional thing of temporary exhibitions. Since it was set up about it, as at 13.77 metres long it is far big- the Museum has housed emblematic choco- The wine presses at L’Espluga ger than other presses of the same type. It late figures such as statues of Ben Hur made The Espluga de Francolí Winery Co-opera- was built in the 18th century and until recent- by Julio Carretero, the Sagrada Família creat- tive, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner ly was kept in a private olive oil mill in ed by Lluís Muixí, and the late Barcelona Zoo and built by Pere Domènech i Montaner, hous- Cambrils. In 1997 it was brought to the gorilla Snowflake and the famous Gaudí Lizard, es the Wine Museum with its numerous exhi- Museum and since then has been in the both made by Josep Balcells. bition rooms. One of these is underground, Catalan book of records. in the winery’s basement. Here, next to the Sausage stuffing machines old presses, is an exhibition about the histo- The mones (Easter figurines) room In one of the rooms of the Sausage Museum, ry, cultivation and making of wine. It is a mar- In Barcelona’s Chocolate Museum there is a visitors can see an attractive and singular exhi- vellous place and affords visitors a view of the place which the most sweet-toothed love: the bition of wooden sausage stuffing machines underground tank gallery. 43 Les Borges Blanques, and next to the through the different sections of the Masia Salat which has a well-known Museum and the wine section is housed restaurant, there is a large facility ded- in eleven rooms which enable visitors icated to the history and production to follow the development of viticulture of olive oil. The attentive visitor to the techniques over the centuries and the Museum can see the world’s biggest history of a product which is so firmly press, 54 millenarian olive trees from rooted in Mediterranean culture. The the Roman period, 13th century Museum’s collection is unique and Knights Templar arches and a spectac- ranges from the Iberian era to the 20th ular collection of cruets from 45 differ- century, the highlight being an impres- ent countries. The facility also has a sive Mediaeval press based on a Roman shop where visitors can taste and buy prototype. In addition there are mod- Fishing Museum the area’s protected denomination of els, dioramas, utensils and other items origin olive oil. which aid in understanding how viti- In the town of Palamós, seafaring culture techniques have developed does not finish at the fish auctions VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS MUSEU from their beginnings to our own time. or on the quays but continues in the DEL VI (WINE MUSEUM) In the same building there are a num- Fishing Museum, the only one of its In the Gothic quarter of Vilafranca del ber of art collections, the County type in the Mediterranean. The facil- Penedès, right in front of the imposing Archaeological Museum (Museu ity shows the past, present and monumental portal of the basilica of d’Arqueologia Comarcal), the Geology future of fishing in its permanent Santa Maria and surrounded by man- Museum (Museu Geològic) and the exhibition and in a set of activities sions, stands the Wine Museum, an ide- Ornithological Collection (Col·lecció linked to the maritime aspect of the al place for finding out about the histo- Ornitològica). The best way of round- Costa Brava, such as sailing round ry of the drink which was already being ing off a visit is to call in at the the whole of Palamós Bay in a lateen exported from El Penedès to Gaul, Modernist-style tavern on the building’s sailboat called Rafael. Germany, Italy, Brittany and France in ground floor and try some of the area’s 44 the 1st century BC. The tour runs wines. L’ESPLUGA DE FRANCOLÍ MUSEU DEL oil and dried fruits and nuts, and it also VI (WINE MUSEUM) houses the Wine Museum, spread over The Espluga de Francolí winery co- three floors of the facility. In the base- operative, designed by Lluís Domènech ment with its restored ancient wine i Montaner, is the flagship building among presses, the history, cultivation and pro- Modernist wineries in Catalonia. Àngel duction of wine are exhibited. On the Guimerà gave it the nickname of the ground floor between the vats the mod- “wine cathedral”, a sobriquet subse- ern wine making process is explained. quently used for many other wineries On the first floor, above the vats, the around Catalonia. In the building you can building as a Modernist structure is dis- buy the co-operative’s wine, cava, olive played accompanied by three videos.

To visit, try and shop see pages 46-50 Addresses and telephone numbers of interest

The museums route • Can Valeri BARCELONA C. de Gurb, 29 BARCELONA (Barcelonès) Tel. 938 841 338 • Barcelona Chocolate Museum – V Specialists in llonganissa sausage C. del Comerç, 36 Tel. 932 687 878 • Can Vilada – T The mountain and forest www.museudelaxocolata.com Pl. Major, 34 produce route Tel. 938 863 259 Specialists in llonganissa sausage BARCELONA (Barcelonès) • Sant Ponç Fair – V, T, S CENTRAL CATALONIA • Rebost d’en Pau – S Pl. de Sant Vicenç Sarrià Vic Municipal Market. Offices: Stalls 42, 43 and 44 Hort de la Vila, 19 The wine route Tel. 938 852 009 Pau Claris, 143 3r Specialists in llonganissa sausage Tel. 934 872 502 MANRESA (Bages) Specialists in aromatic herbs • Casa de la Culla – T The cheese route and jams C. de la Culla Tel. 938 748 236 CENTELLES (Osona) • Fruits del bosc Petràs – S Wine tasting courses • Molí de la Llavina La Boqueria Market, stalls 860-870 Tel. 938 811 695 Pl. de la Boqueria The rural produce route Specialists in blue cheese Tel. 933 025 273 www.boqueria.info CASTELLAR DEL VALLÈS (Vallès Occidental) MONISTROL DE MONTSERRAT (Bages) Specialists in mushrooms • Can Casamada • Craft market of the Montserrat Monastery – V,S Castellar del Vallès Town Council Pl. de l’Abat Oliba The traditional cuisine route Pg. de Tolrà, 1 Tel. 938 777 777 Tel. 937 144 040 BARCELONA (Barcelonès) www.castellarvalles.org The pantry route • Restaurant Les set portes – T Specialists in ganxet white beans Passeig d’Isabel II, 14 SANT QUIRZE DE BESORA (Osona) Tel. 931 930 033 GALLECS – MOLLET DEL VALLÈS (Vallès Oriental) • Ratafia Bosch – V, S Specialists in parellada rice • Gallecs Rural Area C. de Sant Josep, 35 Can Jornet Xic Tel. 938 550 168 The markets route Tel. 935 445 397 Specialists in ratafia liqueur www.espairuralgallecs.net BARCELONA (Barcelonès) Specialists in ganxet white beans SANTA EULÀLIA DE RONÇANA (Osona) • La Boqueria Market – S • Mel d’Antany – V, S Pl. de la Boqueria The mountain and forest C. del Doctor Fleming, 6 Tel. 933 182 584 produce route Tel. 938 446 448 www.boqueria.info Specialists in honey and VALLGORGUINA (Vallès Oriental) beekeeping-related products • Sant Antoni Market – S • Forest and Earth Fair – V, T, S C. del Comte d’Urgell, 1 Streets in the town The pastries route Tel. 934 234 287 Tel. 677 598 138 / 610 976 769 Specialists in craft products CALDES DE MONTBUI (Vallès Oriental) • Santa Caterina Market – S • Alvero Pastry Shop – S Av. Francesc Cambó, 16 VILADRAU (Osona) C. d’Asensi Vega, 9 • Viladrau Chestnut Eating Festival – V, T Tel. 938 654 700 Tel. 933 195 740 Viladrau Town Council Specialists in carquinyolis pastries www.mercatdesantacaterina.net Tel. 938 848 035 Specialists in chestnuts CARDEDEU (Vallès Oriental) • The Barcelona markets route – V • Domingo Vila Pastry Shop Barcelona Tourist Board - • Chestnut Fair – V, T, S C. de Sant Antoni, 13 Barcelona City Council Viladrau Town Council Tel. 938 461 227 Pl. de Sant Jaume, 1 Tel. 938 848 035 www.pastisseriadomingovila.com Tel. 934 027 000 Specialists in chestnuts Specialists in borregos pastries www.barcelonaturisme.com VILANOVA DE SAU (Osona) • Ricós Pastry Shop – S The trades route • Vilanova de Sau Fair – V, T Av. del Rei Jaume, 112 Pl. Major, s/n Tel. 938 461 068 BARCELONA (Barcelonès) Tel. 620 131 211 Specialists in borregos pastries • Gomà Cod Fishmonger’s – S Specialists in aromatic herbs La Boqueria Market, stall 754 The markets route Pl. de la Boqueria The livestock produce route Tel. 933 022 774 GRANOLLERS (Vallès Oriental) www.boqueria.info MANLLEU (Osona) • Granollers Market – S Specialists in cod • Pork and Beer Festival Granollers Town Council Manlleu Town Council Pl. de la Porxada, 6 • Tarrés Cod Fishmonger’s – S Pl. de Fra Bernadí, 6 Tel. 938 426 610 La Llibertat Market, stalls 4-5 Tel. 938 506 666 www.granollers.org Tel. 932 187 178 www.bacallatarres.com The sausages route VIC (Osona) Specialists in cod • Vic Market – S GRANOLLERS (Vallès Oriental) Vic Tourism Office • Casa del Bacalao – S • Emús Vallès – S C. de la Ciutat, 4 C. Comtal, 8 Camí de Can Tià - Palou Tel. 938 862 091 Tel. 933 016 539 Tel. 938 703 629 www.ajvic.net Specialists in cod Specialists in emu fuet The trades route • Generalitat of Catalonia Catalan VIC (Osona) Crafts Centre – V • Casa Sendra – S CASTELLTERÇOL (Vallès Oriental) C. dels Banys Nous, 11 C. de Verdaguer, 23 • Miró Pastry Shop Tel. 93 467 46 60 Tel. 938 833 961 C. Pabordia, 12 www.artesania-catalunya.com Specialists in llonganissa sausage Tel. 938 668 034 Specialists in chocolate • Escribà Pastry Shop – S • Casa Riera Ordeix – V, S Gran Via, 546 Pl. dels Màrtirs, 14 CASTELLBELL I EL VILAR (Bages) Tel. 934 547 535 Tel. 938 893 034 • Enric Rovira Chocolates – S Ronda Litoral, 42 Specialists in llonganissa sausage C. de Sant Geroni, 17 Tel. 932 210 729 Tel. 938 340 927 Rambla de les Flors, 83 • Can Solà www.enricrovira.com Tel. 933 016 027 Pl. Major, 31 Specialists in chocolate www.escriba.es Tel. 938 861 399 Specialists in chocolate Specialists in llonganissa sausage GURB (Osona) • Aula Chocovic (chocolate makers) • Oriol Balaguer Chocolates – S • Ca la Teresona – T Ctra. Nacional 152, km 71,3 C. de Morales, 21-27 C. dels Argenters, 4 Tel. 938 893 419 Tel. 933 632 298 Tel. 938 860 028 www.chocovic.es 46 Specialists in chocolate Specialists in llonganissa sausage Specialists in chocolate and trade school

V: visit; T: try; S: shop Addresses and telephone numbers of interest

More information: CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES (Alt Empordà) The markets route • El Bages County Council • Spring Free Range Duck and Liver Muralla de Sant Domènec - Manresa Gastronomic Workshops – T PERATALLADA (Baix Empordà) Tel. 936 930 350 Castelló d’Empúries Town Council • Mediaeval market Pl. del Joc de la Pilota, 1 Forallac Town Council Tel. 972 250 426 C. de la Unió COSTA BRAVA www.castellodempuries.org Tel. 972 645 522 www.forallac.com EL FAR DE L’EMPORDÀ (Alt Empordà) The olive oil route • Collverd – S SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS (Baix Empordà) Ctra. de Vila Sacra (les Margeneres) • Sant Feliu de Guíxols Market – S CABANES (Alt Empordà) Tel. 972 509 341 Sant Feliu de Guíxols Tourism Office • Cabanes Olive Oil Press www.collverd.com Pl. del Mercat, 28 Ctra d’Espolla, 26 Specialists in produce made from duck Tel. 972 820 051 Tel. 972 505 980 www.guixols.net FORALLAC (Baix Empordà) LA BISBAL (Baix Empordà) • Poultry Gastronomic TORROELLA DE MONTGRÍ (Baix Empordà) • La Bisbal Olive Oil Press Workshops – T • Torroella de Montgrí Market – S C. 6 d’octubre Forallac Tourism Bureau Torroella de Montgrí Tourism Office Tel. 972 642 541 C. de la Unió, s/n Pg. Marítim, s/n Tel. 972 645 522 Tel. 972 751 910 LES FORQUES, VILAFANT (Alt Empordà) www.forallac.com www.torroella.org • Vilafant Olive Oil Press – V C. de Santa Llogaia, 3 PERATALLADA (Baix Empordà) The trades route Tel. 972 504 851 • Poultry Cuisine Gastronomic Workshops BORDILS (Gironès) PAU (Alt Empordà) Forallac Town Council • Can Xapa – S • Pau Olive Oil Press – S C. de la Unió C. de Montserrat, 13 Pau Agricultural Co-operative Tel. 972 645 522 Tel. 972 490 274 Ctra. de Roses, s/n www.forallac.com Specialists in bonbons Tel. 972 530 140 Specialists in poultry The museums route TORROELLA DE MONTGRÏ (Baix Empordà) SERRA DE DARÓ (Baix Empordà) • Torroella de Montgrí Olive Oil Press • Ànec de l’Empordà – S CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES (Alt Empordà) c/de Riu, 6 Ctra. d’Ullastret, 1 • Castelló d’Empúries Flour Mill Eco-Museum Tel. 972 758 903 Tel. 972 757 058 C. de Sant Francesc, 5-7 Specialists in produce made from duck Tel. 972 250 512 VENTALLÓ (Alt Empordà) www.castellodempuries.net • Ventalló Olive Oil Press – S The cheese route C. Major, 13 PALAMÓS (Baix Empordà) Tel. 972 793 187 FONTETA (Baix Empordà) • Fishing Museum • Recuit de Fonteta. Casa Martell – S Exhibitions: Moll Pesquer, s/n The seafood route C. de Fitor, 2 Tel. 972 600 424 Tel. 972 641 548 Offices: Pl. dels Catalans, s/n BEGUR (Baix Empordà) Specialists in recuit cottage cheese Tel. 972 601 244 • Rockfish Gastronomic Workshop www.museudelapesca.org Begur Town Council MONT-RAS (Baix Empordà) Pl. de l’Església, 8 • Recuits Lluïsa – S More information Tel. 972 624 020 Paratge Mas Mortera. La Xiroia, 2 • El Baix Empordà County Council www.begur.org Tel. 972 315 887 C. dels Tarongers, 12 Specialists in rockfish Specialists in recuit cottage cheese La Bisbal d’Empordà Tel. 972 64 23 10 CALONGE-ST.ANTONI (Baix Empordà) PERALADA (Alt Empordà) • Crayfish Gastronomic Workshop • Recuits de l’Empordà – S • L’Alt Empordà County Council St. Antoni de Calonge Tourism Office C. de la Mina, 15 C. Nou, 48 Avda de Catalunya s/n Tel. 972 538 003 Figueres Tel.972 661 714 Specialists in recuit cottage cheese Tel. 972 50 30 88 Specialists in crayfish ULLASTRET (Baix Empordà) PALAMÓS (Baix Empordà) • Nuri d’Ullastret – S • Palamós Prawn Gastronomic Workshops C. de Valls, 2 COSTA DAURADA Tourism Office Tel. 972 757 674 Pg. del Mar s/n Specialists in recuit cottage cheese Tel. 972 600 550 The wine route www.palamos.org Pantry Route BARBERÀ DE LA CONCA (Conca de Barberà) • Fishing Museum – V, S CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL (Baix Empordà) • Barberà de la Conca Co-operative Winery – V Casa Montaner • Havaneras recital Pl. de l’Hospital, 24 Parc dels Països Catalans, s/n Palafrugell Tourism Office Tel. 977 887 035 Tel. 972 601 244 Tel. 972 300 228 www.palamos.org MONTBLANC (Conca de Barberà) SANTA COLOMA DE FARNERS (La Selva) • Montblanc Co-operative Winery – V SANT FELIU DE GUÍXOLS (Baix Empordà) • Ratafía Fair Muralla de Santa Tecla, 54 • Hooked Bluefish Cuisine Santa Coloma de Farners Tel. 977 860 016 Tourism Office Town Council Pl. del Mercat, 28 Plaça Ajuntament, 1 NULLES (Alt Camp) Tel. 972 820 051 Tel. 972 840 195 • Nulles Co-operative Winery – V, T, S www.guixols.net C. Sant Isidre, 1 BESALÚ (Girona) Tel. 977 602 125 The market gardening and rural produce • Ratafía Fair route Beslaú Town Council PIRA (Conca de Barberà) Plaça de la Llibertat 1 • Pira Co-operative Winery – V PALS (Alt Empordà) Tel. 972 590 225 Av. d’Arnau de Ponç, 16 • Rice Mill – V Tel. 977 887 007 Tourism Office The sweet cuisine route Pl. Major, 7 ROCAFORT DE QUERALT (Conca de Barberà) Tel. 972 637 380 BISBAL D’EMPORDÀ (Baix Empordà) • Rocafort de Queralt Co-operative Winery – V • Sans-Bisbalenc Pastry Shop Av. de Catalunya, 35 • Ca la Pruna Museum – V Av. Les Voltes, 4 Tel. 977 898 005 C. de la Creu, 7 Tel. 972 640 375 Tel. 972 636 161 The olive oil route The traditional cusine route The poultry route CAMBRILS (Baix Camp) PALS (Alt Empordà) • Cambrils Co-operative – T BRUNYOLA (La Selva) • Pals and Rice Cuisine Gastronomic C. del Sindicat, 2 • Parés Farmhouse – S Workshops – T Tel. 977 360 719 C. de Sant Martí Sapresa Pals Town Council Tourism Office Tel. 972 421 877 Pl. Major, 7 • Agricultural Museum – V, S www.maspares.com Tel. 972 637 380 C. del Sindicat, 2 Specialists in foie-gras www.palsweb.net Tel. 977 360 719 47

V: visit; T: try; S: shop Addresses and telephone numbers of interest

The seafood route VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) COSTA DEL GARRAF • Vilafranca del Penedès Rooster Festival – S L’HOSPITALET DE L’INFANT (Baix Camp) Municipal Commerce and Tourism Board • Tuna Gastronomic Workshops C. de la Fruita, 13 L’Hospitalet de l’Infant and La Vall de The wine route Tel. 938 920 358 Llors Tourist Board www.ajvilafranca.es C. de l’Alamada, 2 SANT PERE MOLANTA (Alt Penedès) Tel. 977 823 328 • Vineyard and Wine The pantry route www.vandellos-hospitalet.org/turisme/ Workshop – T Can Sadurní SITGES (Garraf) The rural produce route Tel. 938 181 663 • Hospital Sant Joan Baptista – V Information centre C. del Cardenal Vidal i Barraquer PRADES (Baix Camp) Tel. 938 940 033 • Prades Agricultural Co-operative – S VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) Specialists in malvasia sweet wine Av. de la Verge de l’Abellera, 1 • Wine Museum – V, T, S Tel. 977 868 178 Pl. de Jaume I, 1 The traditional cuisine route Tel. 938 900 582 • Day of the Potato Information centre SITGES (Garraf) Prades Town Council • Xató-Eating Festival – T Pl. Major, 2 More information www.rutadelxato.com Tel. 977 868 018 • El Priorat County Council www.prades.altanet.org C. de Josep Maria Gich, 1 EL VENDRELL (Baix Penedès) Falset • Xató-Eating Festival – T VALLS (Alt Camp) Tel. 977 830 119 www.rutadelxato.com • Calçot-eating festival Valls Chamber of Commerce and Industry • Siurana PDO Regulatory Council VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) C. de Jacint Verdaguer, 1 C. d’Antoni Gaudí, 66 • Xató-Eating Festival – T Tel. 977 600 909 Reus www.rutadelxato.com Specialists in calçots Tel. 977 331 937 (blanched onion shoots) VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ (Garraf) The cava route • Restaurant Peixerot – T The mountain and forest On the beachfront produce route CASTELLVÍ DE ROSANES (Baix Llobregat) Tel. 938 150 625 • Canals Canals Cavas – V www.vilanova.org VILANOVA DE PRADES Av. de la Mare de Déu de Montserrat, 9 Specialists in all cremat fish stew (Conca de Barberà) Tel. 937 755 446 • Chestnut Eating Festival – V, T • Xató-Eating Festival – T Vilanova de Prades Town Council PLA DEL PENEDÈS (Pla del Penedès) www.rutadelxato.com C. Major, 3 • Alsina & Sardà Cavas – V, T, S Tel. 977 869 056 Las Tarumbas, s/n The pastries route Specialists in chestnuts Tel. 938 988 132 VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) The poultry route • Nadal Cavas – V, T, S • Cudié Bonbons – V Can Nadal, s/n C. de l’Ull de Llebre, 39 REUS (Baix Camp) Tel. 938 988 011 (Pol. ind. Clot de Moja) • Vacarisses Farm, Aviraut – V Tel. 938 900 017 Ctra. de Montblanc, s/n SANT PAU D’ORDAL (Alt Penedès) Specialists in catànies www.aviraut.com • Eudald Massana Noya Cavas – V, T, S (chocolate-covered almonds) Finca El Maset, s/n The pastries route Tel. 938 994 124 The markets route

REUS (Baix Camp) SANT MARTÍ SARROCA (Alt Penedès) CORBERA DE LLOBREGAT (Baix Llobregat) • Poy Confectioner’s – T • Rovellats Cavas – V, T, S • Corbera de Llobregat Mediaeval Market – S Raval de Jesús, 8 Finca Rovellats-la Bleda Corbera de Llobregat Tel. 977 312 475 Tel. 934 880 575 Town Council Specialists in orelletes pastries C. de la Pau, 5 SANT SADURNÍ D’ANOIA (Alt Penedès) Tel. 936 500 211 ULLDEMOLINS (Priorat) • Vineyard and Wine www.corbera.org • Pepi Pastry Shop – T Workshop – T C. de la Saltadora, 23 Can Sadurní The museums route Tel. 977 561 672 Tel. 938 181 663 Specialists in orelletes pastries VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) • Codorniu Cavas – V, T, S • Vilafranca del Penedès Wine Museum Market route Av. de Jaume Codorniu, s/n Pl. de Jaume I, 1 Tel. 938 183 232 Tel. 938 900 582 MONTBLANC (Conca de Barberà) • Montblanc Mediaeval Week – S • Freixenet Caves – V, T, S More information The Mediaeval Association of the C. de Joan Sala, 2 • L’Alt Penedès Consortium for the Legend of St. George Tel. 938 917 096 Promotion of Tourism Tourism Office C. d’Hermenegild Clascar, 1-3 C. de Miquel Alfonso, 2 • Raventós i Blanc Cavas – V, T, S Vilafranca del Penedès Tel. 977 861 733 Pl. del Roure, s/n Tel. 938 170 160 www.ajmontblanc.org Tel. 938 183 262 • Cava Regulatory Council REUS (Baix Camp) SANTA FE DEL PENEDÈS (Alt Penedès) Av. de Tarragona, 24 • Reus Market – S • Giró Ribot Cavas – V, T, S Vilafranca del Penedès Reus Town Council Finca El Pont, s/n Tel. 938 903 104 Pl. del Mercadal, 1 Tel. 938 974 050 Tel. 901 112 113 www.reus.net SUBIRATS (Alt Penedès) • Llopart Cavas – V COSTA DEL MARESME VALLS (Alt Camp) Ctra. de Sant Sadurní a l’Ordal • Valls Market – S Tel. 938 993 125 Valls Town Council The markets route Pl. del Blat, 1 The seafood route Tel. 977 601 050 MASNOU (Maresme) www.ajvalls.org VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ (Garraf) • Masnou Market – S • Museum of Marine Curiosities – V, S Masnou Town Council The museums route Av. d’Alexandre de Cabanyes, 2, baixos C. de Prat de la Riba, 1 Tel. 938 154 263 Tel. 935 424 747 FRANCOLÍ (Conca de Barberà) www.vilanovaturisme.net www.elmasnou.net • L’Espluga de Francolí Wine Museum Av. de J. M. Rendé i Ventosa, 5 The poultry route The traditional cuisine route Tel. 977 870 161 EL PRAT DE LLOBREGAT (Baix Llobregat) PINEDA DE MAR (Maresme) More information • El Prat de Llobregat Poultry Fair – T • Popular Soup Broth Festival • La Conca de Barberà County Council El Prat Chicken Breeders’ Association Tourism Information Office C. de Sant Josep, 18 C. del Centre, 33 c/Sant Joan, 63 Montblanc Tel. 933 790 057 Tel. 937 623 490 48 Tel. 977 861 232

V: visit; T: try; S: shop Addresses and telephone numbers of interest

The trades route CAMPRODON (Ripollès) LA SEU D’URGELL (Alt Urgell) • Can Xec – T • Cadí Co-operative – V, S ARGENTONA (Maresme) C. d’Isaac Albèniz, 1 CADÍ, SCCL • Blanca Coll Cod Fishmonger’s – S Tel. 972 740 084 Av. de Sant Ermengol, 37 Pl. de Vendre Specialists in craft-made sausages Tel. 973 156 049 Tel. 937 560 002 - 937 971 130 Specialists in cod CASTELLFOLLIT DE LA ROCA (La Garrotxa) The pantry route • Sausage Museum – V, S MATARÓ (Maresme) Ctra. de Girona, 10 ALPENS (Osona) • Claudi Uñó (chocolate makers) Tel. 972 294 463 • Cal Benet La Riera, 84 Specialists in sausages Alpens Town Council Tel. 937 552 440 Plaça Major Specialists in bonbons ESTAMARIU (Alt Urgell) Tel. 938 578 075 • Cal Teixidor Specialists in preserved foods and marmalade C. Sol de Villa, 33 Tel. 973 360 121 BARRUERA - VALL DE BOÍ (Alta Ribagorça) PIRINEUS Specialists in craft sausages • El Tupinet de la Vall de Boí – V, S C. de Carlà MARTINET DE CERDANYA (Cerdanya) Tel. 973 694 061 The rural produce route • Turet Sausages – T Specialists in preserved foods and marmalade C. del Segre, 21 PUIGCERDÀ (La Cerdanya) Tel. 973 515 076 BOR, BELLVER DE CERDANYA (Cerdanya) • Puigcerdà Market Specialists in pork liver pâté • Tupí de la Cerdanya (Bor) – S Plaça de l’Ajuntament s/n Pl. Major, s/n Tel.972 880 650 LA POBLA DE SEGUR (Pallars Jussà) Tel. 973 510 494 • Casa Aubarell – S Specialists in preserved foods The mountain and forest C. de la Font, 2 produce route Tel. 973 680 529 LA GLEVA (Osona) Specialists in girella sausage • Confitures Renart BERGA (Berguedà) C. Marqués de Palmerola, 17 • Mushroom Festival – T, V SORT (Pallars Sobirà) Specialists in preserved foods and marmalade Berga Town Council • Sort Market – V, S Pl. de Sant Pere, 1 El Pallars Sobirà Tourist Board OLOT (La Garrotxa) Tel. 938 214 333 Av. dels Comtes del Pallars, 21 • Can Xena – T Specialists in mushrooms Tel. 973 621 002 Pg. de Blai, 46 www.noguerapallaresa.com Tel. 972 261 601 GUARDIOLA DE BERGUEDÀ (Berguedà) Specialists in girella sausage Specialists in ratafia liqueur • Mushroom Fair – V, T, S Guardiola de Berguedà Town Council LA TORRE DE CABDELLA (Pallars Jussà) • Catholic Centre – T Pl. Municipal, 3 • Can Alfons – S C. de Crivillers, 7 Tel. 938 227 059 Tel. 973 663 038 Tel. 972 261 552 Specialists in mushrooms Specialists in xolís sausage Specialists in ratafia liqueur

PERAMOLA (Alt Urgell) The cheese route • People’s Choral Society – T • Peramola Fish Farm – S C. de Bellaire, 4 Ctra. de Peramola, s/n ADRALL (Alt Urgell) Tel. 972 269 666 Tel. 973 470 173 • Eroles Farmhouse – T Specialists in ratafia liqueur Specialists in river trout Tel. 973 354 057 Specialists in cured cow’s cheese SANTA PAU (La Garrotxa) TAVASCAN (Pallars Sobirà) • Cal Sabater Agriboutique • Sillero Fish Farm – S BAR (Cerdanya) Town Council Ctra. a Vallcardós • Baridà Cheeses – T, S Tel. 972 680 002 Tel. 973 623 047 Cal Romà Specialists in preserved foods and marmalade Specialists in river trout Tel. 973 384 060 Specialists in craft goat’s cheese The traditional cuisine route TUIXÉN (Alt Urgell) • El Cadí Herbs – V, T, S BOR (Cerdanya) PUIGCERDÀ (Cerdanya) Can Farratgetes • Molí d’en Pons • Trinxat Festival – V Tel. 973 370 034 Tel. 689 138 133 Puigcerdà Town Council Specialists in aromatic herbs Specialists in traditional serrat cheese Pl. de l’Ajuntament, s/n Tel. 972 880 650 • Trementinaires Museum – V BORREDÀ (Berguedà) www.puigcerda.com Pl. de la Serra del Cadí, 1 • Formatges la Bauma Specialists in the trinxat traditional breakfast Tel. 973 370 030 La Solana Tel. 938 239 064 The markets route The livestock produce route Specialists in craft cheeses GUIMERÀ (Urgell) BELLVER DE CERDANYA (Cerdanya) GIRONELLA (Berguedà) • Guimerà Mediaeval Market – S • Livestock Fair • Casa Manudells – T Pl. Major Bellver de Cerdanya Town Council Tel. 938 228 696 Tel. 973 303 213 Pl. Major, 2 Specialists in craft cheeses Tel. 973 510 016 LA SEU D’URGELL (Alt Urgell) www.bellver.org MÚSSER (Cerdanya) • La Seu d’Urgell Market – S • L’Orri Tourism Office BERGA (Berguedà) Cal Valentí Av. de les Valls d’Andorra, 33 • Catalan Federation of the Pyrenean Tel. 973 515 260 Tel. 973 351 511 Bruna Breed – Specialists in goat’s cheese www.laseu.org FEBRUPI – S C. de Solsona, 7 OSSERA (Alt Urgell) SORT (Pallars Sobirà) Tel. 938 214 124 • Cal Codina – T, S • Sort Market – S Lavansa-Fornols Tourism Office RIBES DE FRESER (Ripollès) Tel. 973 298 229 Av. els Comtes de Pallars, 21 • Livestock Fair and Pyrenean Bruna Calf Show Specialists in Serrat Gros, Lo Pebrat and El Tupí cheeses Tel. 973 621 020 Ribes de Freser Town Hall www.sort.ddl.net Pl. de l’Ajuntament, 3 PERAMOLA (Alt Urgell) Tel. 972 727 184 • Casa de la Penella – V, S The trades route La Penella LA SEU D’URGELL (Alt Urgell) Tel. 973 470 463 GER DE LA CERDANYA (Cerdanya) • Mafriseu – S Specialists in marinated cheese and tupi cheese • Ger Bakery– S Castellciutat, s/n C. d’Andreu Xandri, 8 Tel. 973 351 492 QUAR (Berguedà) Tel. 972 894 003 www.mafriseu.com • Craft Cheeses from Berguedà Specialists in bread baked using Casa Soldevila craft techniques The sausages route Tel. 937 441 006 Specialists in craft cheeses OLOT (La Garrotxa) BELLVER DE CERDANYA (Cerdanya) • Vilarrassa Sausages • Cal Jaume – S SANT FELIU DE PALLEROLS (La Garrotxa) Plaça Mercat, sn C. de Sant Roc, 1 • Mas Claperol Tel. 972 264 703 Tel. 973 510 024 Tel. 972 444 377 Traditional sausages from Specialists in pork liver pâté Specialists in pell florida goat’s cheese La Garrotxa 49

V: visit; T: try; S: shop Addresses and telephone numbers of interest

TÀRREGA (Urgell) AMPOSTA (Montsià) • Torrons Roig – V • FiraCóc – S • Restaurant l’Estany – T Ctra. de Cervera, km 19100 Economic Development Department C. de l’Encanyissada Tel. 973 390 036 Lleida Town Council Tel. 977 261 026 Specialists in torró (nougat) Pl. de la Paeria, 1 Specialists in black rice, paella and rossejat (rice cooked in Tel. 973 700 300 fish broth) The trades route Specialists in cócs and coques (flat cakes) DELTEBRE (Baix Ebre) • Deltebre Gastronomic Workshops – T LLEIDA (Segrià) TREMP (Pallars Jussà) Deltebre Tourism Bureau • Forn Serra – S • Casa Badia – S Pl. del 20 de maig, 1 Ctra. de Pons, 62 Pl. de Peiró, 4 Tel. 977 489 309 Tel. 973 400 103 Tel. 973 650 857 www.deltebre.net Specialists in mushroom coques, prawns and snails Specialists in traditional sausages from El Pallars Specialists in black rice, paella and rossejat (rice cooked in fish broth) • Prats Pastry Shop – S The museums route Pg. de la Ronda, 88 The markets route Dr. Fleming, 23 CASTELLFOLLIT DE LA ROCA (La Garrotxa) Tel. 973 271 953 • Castellfollit Sausage Museum BATEA (Terra Alta) www.prats.org Ctra. de Girona, 10 • Batea Mediaeval Market – S Specialists in bonbons Tel. 972 294 463 La Templada de Batea Women’s Association Pl. d’Espanya, 8 Market route MONTFERRER (Alt Urgell) Tel. 696 660 999 • Montferrer Flour Mill ARTESA DE SEGRE (La Noguera) Montferrer - Castellbó More information • Artesa de Segre Market Town Council • La Terra Alta County Council Artesa de Segre Town Council Pl. de la Trobada, s/n C. Bassa d’en Gaire, 1 Plaça de l’Ajuntament, 3 Tel. 973 351 343 Gandesa Tel. 973 400 013 www.alturgell.org Tel. 977420 018 TÀRREGA (L’Urgell) • Baix Ebre-Montsià PDO Regulatory Council • Tàrrega Market Ctra. del Raval de Crist, s/n Tàrrega Town Council TERRES DE L’EBRE Tortosa Plaça Major, 1 Tel. 977 581 212 Tel. 973 500 552 www.acobem.com/consell/index.asp The wine route The museums route GANDESA (Terra Alta) TERRES DE LLEIDA • Gandesa Co-operative Winery – V CASTELLDANS (les Garrigues) Av. de Catalunya, 28 • Castelldans Olive Oil and Rural World Museum Tel. 977 420 017 The olive oil route C. de l’Empit Tel. 973 120 308 / 973 120 002 PINELL DE BRAI (Terra Alta) LES BORGES BLANQUES – JUNEDA (les Garrigues) www.musealia.com • Pinell de Brai Co-operative Winery – V • Olive Oil Theme Park – T, S C. de Pilonet, 8 Salat Farmhouse More information: Tel. 977 426 334 Ctra. N-240, km 71 • Garrigues PDO Regulatory Council Tel. 973 140 018 Complex la Caparrella, 97 The olive oil route Lleida CASTELLDANS (les Garrigues) Tel. 973 280 470 PINELL DE BRAI (Terra Alta) • Olive Oil and Rural World Museum – V, S www.olidoplesgarrigues.com • Pinell de Brai Co-operative – V, S C. de l’Empit C. de Pilonet, 8 Tel. 973 120 002 Tel. 977 426 234 CERVIÀ DE LES GARRIGUES (les Garrigues) VAL D’ARAN TORTOSA (Baix Ebre) • El Camp Co-operative – T • Soldebre Co-operative – T, S C. de l’Albi Ctra. de la Raval de Crist, s/n Tel. 973 178 006 The mountain and forest produce route Tel. 977 502 184 / 977 502 912 L’ESPLUGA CALBA (les Garrigues) LES (Val d’Aran) The seafood route • L’Espluga Calba co-operative – T, S • Les Fish Farm – S Av. de Catalunya, s/n Ctra. de França CAMARLES (Baix Ebre) Tel. 973 156 013 Tel. 973 648 708 • Sant Carles de la Ràpita Market – V Specialists in sturgeon fish Municipal Tourism Office LA POBLA DE CÉRVOLES (les Garrigues) C. Trenta-un, s/n • Olive Oil Ecomuseum – V, S Traditional cuisine route Tel. 977 470 040 Pl. de Sant Miquel, 9 www.ajcamarles.org Tel. 973 142 658 ARTIES (Val d’Aran) • Casa Irene Restaurant – T DELTEBRE (Baix Ebre) The traditional cuisine route C. Major, 3 • Delta Oyster Gastronomic Workshops Tel. 973 644 364 Deltebre Town Council ARTESA DE LLEIDA (El Segrià) Specialists in olla aranesa (stew) Pl. del 20 de maig • Meat Stew Festival Tel. 977 489 309 Artesa de Lleida Town Council www.deltebre.net Carrer del Castell, 3 Specialists in oysters Tel.973 167 162

The rural produce route LLEIDA (Segrià) • Snail Gathering - V DELTEBRE (Baix Ebre) C. dels Obradors, 2 • Barraques d’en Salvador – V Tel. 973 281 473 Ctra. de la Platja de la Marquesa www.lleida.org Tel. 977 482 272 Specialists in snails Rural tourism house The pastries route The pantry route AGRAMUNT (Urgell) EL PERELLÓ (Baix Ebre) • Torrons Artesans Fèlix – S • Mel Múria – V, S C. de la Comtessa Aurembiaix, 5 Av. de Catalunya Tel. 973 390 319 Tel. 977 490 034 Specialists in torró (nougat) www.melmuria.com Specialists in honey • Torrons Lluch – T Polígon industrial, s/n The traditional cuisine route Tel. 973 390 030 Specialists in torró (nougat) AMETLLA DE MAR (Baix Ebre) • Peix Calero Suquet Competition – V • Torrons R. Vicens – V C. de Sant Joan, 55 Ctra. de Tàrrega, s/n Tel. 977 456 477 Tel. 973 390 607 www.ametllademar.org www.vicens.com 50 Specialists in suquet fish stew Specialists in torró (nougat)

V: visit; T: try; S: shop The Catalan Tourist Board wishes to thank the collaboration of all the organisations that have contributed information and photography for this edition of Routes for savouring a country.

Design and content: Critèria sccl Copyright deposit: B-13161-06 Printing: Gramagraf sccl Corders 22-28, 08911 Badalona

The total or partial reproduction of this work by any means, including photocopying and computer-based reproduction, as well as the distribution of copies through rental or public lending, is expressly prohibited without the written consent of the copyright holders. Violations are subject to the appropriate sanctions established by law. www.catalunyatourism.com