Celebrating Scale the art of Trains 1:48 modeling O u Mar/Apr 2006 Issue #25
US $6.95 • Can $8.95 Display until Apr. 30, 2006
Celebrating the art of 1:48 modeling Issue #25 Mar/Apr 2006 Vol. 5 - No. 2
Publisher Joe Giannovario [email protected] Features 4 Bay Ridge Harbor – Revisited Art Director There’s been a lot of changes since we last looked at Neville Rossiter’s Jaini Giannovario great model railroad in Perth, Australia. [email protected] 16 Building a Small O Scale Layout – Part 8 Editor Mike Culham starts to add structures to his new GCRR. Brian Scace [email protected] 21 Lenses and Portholes A simple way to fill those openings, by Marty Iftody.
Advertising Manager 29 Running Trains with Their Own Fuel Jeb Kriigel Bob Boelter’s solution to command control is batteries. [email protected] 35 Growing Up O Scale More info about the 2006 O Scale National Convention. Customer Service Spike Beagle 40 Track as Scenery Our resident Finescale Modeler, Mike Cougill, examines track as an element of scenery. Contributors 49 Quench Your Loco’s Thirst Ted Byrne Hobo D. Hirailer Thoughts on building Water Tanks by C. Victor Robart. Bobber Gibbs Jace Kahn Mike Cougill Roger C. Parker 64 Index to O Scale Trains Volume 3, Jan. - Dec. 2004 Carey Hinch Neville Rossiter
Subscription Rates: 6 issues US - Standard Mail Delivery US$35 US - First Class Delivery (1 year only) US$45 Canada/Mexico US$55 Departments Overseas US$80 Visa, MC, AMEX & Discover accepted 11 Easements for the Learning Curve – Brian Scace Call 610-363-7117 during 13 The Good Old Days – Jace Kahn Eastern time business hours Dealers contact Kalmbach Publishing, 800-558- 25 The Workshop – Neville Rossiter 1544 ext 818 or email [email protected] 26 The Art of Finescale – Mike Cougill Advertisers call for info. O Scale Trains ISSN 1536-9528 31 Confessions of a HiRailer – Hobo D. Hirailer www.oscalemag.com Published bimonthly (6 times a year) by 33 Narrow Minded – Bobber Gibbs O Scale Trains Magazine 38 Traction Action – Roger C. Parker PO Box 238, Lionville PA 19353-0238 © 2006 OST All Rights Reserved 44 Reader Feedback – Letters to the Editor Printed in the U.S.A. 47 The Modern Image–Carey Hinch
Contributors: O Scale Trains welcomes your feature articles, photos, and drawings. Such material should be sent to the 53 Product News & Reviews above address for possible publication. If we accept, you will be notified immediately. For more information concerning 60 Modeler’s Shelf–Reader’s Photos article preparation guidelines, please send an SASE to the above address and request our “Guide For Authors” or visit our 67 Advertiser Index website at: www.oscalemag.com. 68 Buy-Sell-Trade Ads Cover: Romanos Scrap Metal is a busy industry for 68 Events Listing Neville Rossiter’s Bay Ridge Harbor Railroad. 70 Observations – Joe Giannovario Centerspread: A shot on the main line of the BRHRR going towards South Brooklyn.
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • Bay Ridge Harbor Revisited Neville Rossiter
1: Outwards Freight House built from Lionel factory kits
Neville Rossiter’s Bay Ridge Harbor was the first layout fea- but the thought of all the associated electrical work was a major tured in OST, back in the Premier issue (You can download a deterrent. The break came when my good friend, Bruce Temper- PDF from our website at [www.oscalemag.com]). Although many ley (who had helped me prepare the Pier 31 exhibition layout), of you have been following what he’s been up to, as loyal readers offered to assist with rewiring. After bouncing around several of Neville’s column, we’ve asked him to sum up the progress on options, I decided to bite the bullet and get on with the next the BRHRR in this, the 25th issue of OST. Here’s Neville: development phase of the BRHRR. Living in the most isolated capital city in the world (Perth, Australia), and so far away from the American railroad scene, I feel privileged to be asked to contribute a follow-up article on the Bay Ridge Harbor Railroad for the 25th edition of O Scale Trains. May I also take this opportunity to congratulate the OST crew on reaching this milestone. With the passage of time, even I had to pull out the original layout plan to appreciate how much the BRHRR has changed over ten years. The first major change took place when I installed Pier 31. Although built initially as part of an exhibition layout, it had always been my intention to incorporate it into the BRHRR. However, integration of traffic movements to and from Pier 31 proved to be a teaser. I had plenty of ideas of 2: Randy’s Drive-in Hamburgers. Figures by Preiser and Arttista. Vehicles by Road Champs how I would like to see the layout evolve, • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Bay Ridge Harbor 10
2 14 15 CENTER Revisited SPREAD 12 13 4
9 8 1
7
3 16
6 COVER 5
11
The numbers refer to photo locations.
Originally traffic to and from the BRHRR was either via a theoretical direct rail connection to the South Brooklyn Rail- way or by carfloat. The plan, as it exists today, is for the BRHRR to be operated as an isolated industrial railroad served exclusively by carfloats from the Erie yard in New Jersey. The Bay Ridge Float Bridge Yard was dismantled and re-erected on the site of what was previously Second Street Yard. Team tracks, the power station, and the freight house, were replaced with a dou- ble crossover, classification tracks, and a line around to Millers Meat Works. These changes quickly started a snow- ball effect. In the space vacated by the removal of the float bridge and associated track work, I have indulged my military background and built the Brooklyn Army Depot. The whole area, including the adjoining coal and gravel siding, lumber- yard, and the track around to Miller’s Meat 3: Switching the Inwards Freight House. Atlas loco, Intermountain boxcar Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 4: Aerial view of both BRHRR Freight Houses, built with Lionel factory kits
5: Miller’s Meats Brooklyn built from Downtown Deco kits
6: Selby Steel in North Brooklyn. Future plans call for a much bigger crane
• O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 7: Scratchbuilt Checkers office at the main entrance to Inwards Freight Yard
8: Branum Meat Works built mostly from Korber kits
9 : Switching South Brooklyn Yard
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 10: Aerial view of trackage. Left to Right: Brooklyn Army Terminal wharf, Pier 31 runaround, and mainline 11: Float elevator with loaded floats and open car loads on bottom shelf
13: Switching the ice platform at Pier 31. Ice platform by Suncoast models
12: Switching Brooklyn Army Terminal 15: Even the BRHRR has a Chinese restaurant! Figures by Arttista, building by Downtown Deco 14: Neville’s tribute to a great man, John Armstrong
• O Scale Trains -Mar/Apr ’06 Works, is now referred to as Brooklyn Yard. Bruce was true to his word. He rewired both yards and installed BRHRR Operation cab control. At the same time, he replaced the old “probe” method The Bay Ridge Harbor Railroad is essentially a self-contained of turnout solenoid control with capacitor discharge units and industrial switching layout, which presents an ideal opportunity pushbuttons. Having started the ball rolling, we decided to con- to develop your own operating system. On most occasions there tinue and update the remaining control panels. are only the two of us for a run session, so we were looking for Operating improvements as a result of our efforts, however, a system that offered a variety of switching combinations. These had a leapfrog effect. The run-around at First Avenue, essential combinations needed to be designed such that they could be for serving Pier 31, was now a bottleneck for North and South quickly set up on the day of the session, easily operated with the Brooklyn Yard traffic moving around to the float at Bay Ridge. This minimum number of operators, but not so constrained as to pre- became a situation for which there was no quick-fix solution. vent the addition of more operators, if available. Resolving problems like this is what stimulates and maintains the The result is a homegrown Microsoft Excel spreadsheet pleasure of railroad modeling. After a brainstorming session, the program of almost infinite variation. At a touch of the F9 key, conclusion was reached that each yard needed to be self-sufficient the spreadsheet uses the RANDBETWEEN function [a random in terms of runaround facilities, and needed to be totally indepen- number generator] like the rolling of dice, to produce a complete dent of the connecting line through to the float at Bay Ridge. operating plan for consignee and shipper movements based upon This next round of alterations gave me the opportunity to, at preset parameters. long last, incorporate a crossover that I had purchased many years A prelude to selecting a new session plan is to take inventory ago. Access to the oil depot is now through a direct crossover con- of all freight cars on the layout. This is not as onerous as it first nection from First Avenue. A direct line could then be laid from appears. Each session begins with the assumption that all cars on North and South Brooklyn through to the interchange tracks at Brooklyn Yard. the layout are empty and available for assignment. It is, therefore, With the wisdom of hindsight, we found a conventional cab only necessary to record the number of cars by type or classifica- control system was restrictive in the context of operating the tion at each yard. After entering this information on the empty BRHRR, especially when there are only a limited number of opera- (MT) car dispersal sheet, the calculate key is hit. The program tors available. I’m not sure if the new arrangement could still be looks around the layout to determine the availability of suitable called cab control as such, but what we have done is to make cars for outbound shipping assignments. If there are no cars avail- control of the connecting track through to Bay Ridge accessible to able of the type required within the immediate yard, it sequen- all operating positions. The circuit links up to each control panel tially looks through the inventory for suitable rolling stock at other similar to cab control, but is interlocked so that only one cab can yards, then issues an MT car transfer order. If no (or insufficient) control the connecting line at any time. LED’s on each panel indi- MT cars are available on the layout, it will raise an MT car order cate who has control of the line. on the New Jersey pullout sheet for the balance. The site of where a short length of narrow-gauge track once ran A look at the Activity sheet gives a summary of car movements from the dock to along side Romano’s Scrap yard is now occupied to and from each industry, plus the total number of cars to be with BRHRR tracks serving the Selby Steel yard and Stilgoe Print moved into and out of the BRHRR for that particular operating plan. Works. The resulting increase in traffic volume passing between Having chosen a session plan, the next step is to print out a North and South Brooklyn resulted in the need for two extra turn- series of supplements. The pullout sheet details cars, by type and outs and more track to speed up the transfer. It now looks really destination, that are to be brought across to the BRHRR by float. good to see two operators working together as they break down Each yard has its own sheet broken down into two parts. The first trains and switch cars through this section. details the inbound cars by type and consignment track numbers, As the number of car movements has increased, so has the plus the arrival of empty cars for shipper allocation. The second problem of staging capacity within the remaining space available. part of this sheet details the shipper assignments; allocated car Inspired by an idea published in an article by one of our smaller types and shipper track numbers, empty cars for transfer to other scale colleagues, my next project is to build a powered four-level staging elevator capable of holding sixty cars. yards and empty cars for return to New Jersey. I know it is not easy to tear down many hours of work, but Although the spreadsheet specifies freight cars by type for being prepared to learn and change is what has kept the BRHRR as assignment, it is at the discretion of the layout controller as to vital and dynamic today as it was ten years ago. u which particular car is selected. Scheduled cars are identified with a small self-adhesive round label, of the same color as the desti- nation yard, on which is written the shipper or consignee track number. The session planner defines the overall scope of operation, but the interpretation of this plan regarding allocation of empty cars for shipper assignments in the same yard is left to the respective yard controller. The yard controller also has to be on the lookout for the arrival of MT cars transferred from other yards, and to match them with outstanding un-allocated shipper assignments. To add more variation, when an industry ships or receives cargo using a variety of car types, another random application is introduced to select car numbers and types in order of customer preference. The operating system may not be all that prototypical, but it provides endless options, as the mood takes you on the day, to enjoy the fun of running your own model railroad. u 16: Aerial view of South and North Brooklyn
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 10 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Hardly a week goes by without some permutation of the fol- My hobby time needs to be devoted to building and detailing lowing: a railroad, and operating some trains before the Big Dirt Nap. Dear Scace Soldering wiring harnesses to circuit boards, shrinking heat wrap, I can’t choose/have chosen between DCC, DCS, or TMCC. programming ID’s and functions using the simple 31-step pro- Please (1) tell me what to use, (2) write a learned treatise about cedure outlined on page 57 of The Geeks Guide to Command each, or (3) do not disagree with me in any way. Control using the little tiny buttons on the handheld , all take Signed, time from my other goals. My fat ol’ fingertip covers at least six of I. M. Stymied those little buttons, and I can’t even see ‘em because some idiot This may sound like Scace is on a really good wobble only decided that light gray buttons look “tech-y trendy” on a dark because he is, so take this (with a tip of the skimmer to Randy gray panel! The system that yields the most operational benefit for Brown) as an Olde Pfartz rant. The question so often laid before the least amount of the above is my best choice. the Oracle is, “Which control system (DCC, DCS, TMCC, and Quick installation also speaks to expense. Fitting the receiver/ Bingo was his name-o) do you recommend?” Since I’m the proud decoder into my (not some discrete manufacturer’s, mine!) exist- owner of a new basement filled with nothing but opportunities, ing power is a requirement. If the receiver is cheap, but I have to it’s a choice I’m facing too. I’ve a fair amount of experience with send it and a $200 check out to someone to install because it’s DCC and TMCC, and some with DCS. Here are some observa- beyond me, it isn’t a win from the cost sense. This puts the pro- tions as a private citizen O Scaler. prietary systems at a big disadvantage for my purposes. Sound Simplicity is closely allied with time. I want to turn a big knob All three systems feature locomotive sound. For me, sound is and move my train out to do its work. A system that comes with a cool for the first five minutes or so. Then it becomes an annoy- 70-page manual written in “Geek-speek” with a totally nonsensi- ance. In the real world, the gates go down and the far-off wail of cal index isn’t simple. If you expect an Olde Pfart (Randy, I LOVE the whistle can just be heard. Soon the hammer of the exhaust, that term!) to even remember where the manual is when the sys- the clatter of wheels, and the rush of a thousand other sounds all tem cobs up because he (that’d be me!) pushed the wrong button mingle together in a delightfully oppressive auditory stew, thrash- in the wrong sequence, yer nutz! An entire evening I can devote ing the brain. Just as suddenly, and dramatically, the sensation is to trains is all-too-rare. That evening spent reading the manual gone. rather than running my railroad is something I’ve experienced The problem I have with sound in locomotive models is two- with DCC all too often. It isn’t pretty. If your passion is control fold. First, the damn thing won’t shut up after the train leaves the systems, electronics, computers, or computer games, there might scene. Those of us who are the followers of the Ellison/Armstrong be something to be said for DCC. Certainly, it’s the choice with Theory go to great lengths to create scenes that a train enters and the most open architecture of the three. It isn’t my thing, though. leaves, hopefully making the railroads we build seem bigger in Robustness is another real issue. In my environment, I’ve had an illusionary sense. Sound, as it is now, destroys that illusion. survivability issues with even the highest amp-rated decoders. No matter where the fool thing is in the entire room, it’s blasting My locomotives are mostly older and heavy, with big can motors. merrily away, never coming or going. Give me an up-arrow and The grades and curvature are challenging, and the trains are long down-arrow key (with a Doppler shift when you go from one key and heavy. There is little of the modern lightweight free-rolling to the other, thank you) and perhaps this anachronism can be stuff. I could invest time and treasure in upgrading rolling stock. dealt with. Then again, nah. I don’t even want to spend time cleaning track The other issue is, “Where are the rest of the sounds?” I, and (O Scale is nice that way.) So what happens? The arcs between many of my ilk, couldn’t care less about some voice telling me brushes and commutators, and between dirty wheels and dirty over the “radio” that “those black diamonds are red hot”, or that track, caused spikes that weakened and finally killed even my the 20th Century Limited is ready for takeoff on Runway One- highest rated decoders. Now, for several friends of mine, DCC Eight-Right or some such palaver. How ‘bout using that band- has been “the nutz”. John Peterson’s B&M runs flawlessly every width to add a track with the train sounds that rush past with that time I visit, and he is really pleased with his system. For me, locomotive? though, DCC was a failure. Until sound isn’t a detriment to the illusion I am striving to So what’s the epiphany here? There’s actually two, one for create, it has no place in my world. Better the real sound of an O you, I. M. Stymied, and one for me. For you, don’t be afraid to Scale train smoothly traversing the scene and (thankfully) going ignore peer opinion (or mine, for that matter). Try ‘em all out. If away than the audio-anachronism of current sound-equipped you like a system, use it. If you don’t like one, don’t suffer with it locomotives. to humor somebody else. None are perfect (or even very close) So, now what? for O Scale 2-Rail, and don’t expect the major players to worry Since sound is not a big attraction as it currently exists, what about accommodating the foibles of our market very quickly, choice will I make? My Givens and Druthers are based on robust- when the sales volume is in either HO (for DCC) or 3-Rail ness, simplicity, cost, and time. “Time?” gasps the congregation, (TMCC, DCS). “Whatever do you mean?” Time is an issue to consider. Mine is My epiphany is also clear. I will use the system with Dop- a very precious and rare commodity, as the faithful followers of pler-fade sound (the whole train, please) on a memory stick you Scace’s Snappy Patter know all too well. The system I choose uncork from the USB port of the computer (after downloading the needs to be quick to install (on both railroad and locomotive). actual sound of a 4-6-4, rather than a generic steam noise from
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 11 some Colorado narrow-gauge teakettle) and plug into the USB port prewired on the receiver. That’s right, open the water hatch and plug it in! NEW All the addressing and functions are done on the computer screen using simple prompts, rather NYC/MDT than some bizarre non-intuitive manipulation of the keys on a handheld that looks like a piece of 40’ STEEL REEFER avionics. No “program track”, just dump all the loco-specific info on a memory stick and down- load it through the water hatch! All the “consist- ing” and addressing can be performed on a small laptop with a USB port, so the handheld doesn’t need all those buttons. Yes, this system is laptop based, so the most geeky can have a ball with the open architecture, while we (I can’t resist it one more time!) Olde Pfartz can just point-’n-click. I’ll use the system that is robust and surviv- able, that is easy to use (even after a month or Additional Atlas O Special Runs Coming Soon: 3-Rail 2-Rail so between opportunities to run the railroad). I’ll Jersey Central GP-9 • Great Northern steel-rebuilt box car (red) buy the system that (not someone else) I can put NYC “Pacemaker” AAR Box Car (black/white logo) • PRR Produce 36’ Wood Reefer $55.95* $58.95* in any locomotive I own, not just one manufac- Available in four road numbers, AM Hobbies turer’s product. I’ll buy the system with a wire- #8514 (3 Rail), #9514 (2 Rail) 6 Delmar Ridge Drive less handheld throttle that has a knob, reversing amhobbiesonline.com Wellsboro, PA 16901 lever, and a couple of intuitively arranged rocker (570) 723-1824 [email protected] PayPal switches that ramp the sound up and down. It’s *Shipping:$5.95 for one or two cars; $6.95 for three or four cars the system that works out-of-the-box, and you can buy simple add-on components on blister- cards at the hobby shop, like the R/C modelers can, and more intricate programming features www.modelbuildingservices.com (for those who groove on such things) on a disc, ASSEMBLED BUILDINGS like the computer-game people can. from any manufacturers’ kits If my HP scanner/printer/fax can be a USB Kitbashed, Painted & Detailed peripheral that even I can use, why not the rail- road? Given what the computer-game people “Just Like Real” are manipulating, this can’t be outside the capa- Model Building Services bility of today’s technology. As a matter of fact, Models built by Stu Gralnik I’m sure the design folks in the gaming world 264 Marret Rd. would have a howling good laugh at the current Lexington, MA 02421-7024 DCC protocol. The system I describe probably (781) 860-0554 could come from their world right now, pushed e-mail: by folks who had an interest in both worlds, Kit by Brennan’s Model RR [email protected] a little capital, and a penchant for challenges. Who knows, it may bring more Gameboy-age kids into the hobby! Until then, I. M. Stymied, I’m going to use conventional cab-control, and put a little Dorsey on the radio. Let’s go Exploring! u NORM’S O SCALE Trains & More Buy, Sell, Trade! www.normsoscale.com [email protected] 41 Roosevelt Trail, Route 302. S. Casco, ME 04077 Ph: 207-655-2550 12 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Structures Some years ago, Keith Wills discussed the product line (avail- One of the major differences that strikes me, as I compare views able in both O Scale and HO) in his Railroad Model Craftsman of O Scale railroads of the 1930s and earlier (and even often in column mostly dismissively, as the corrugated sheet provided the 1940s) is the absence of structures/buildings. It is hard for was really heavy aluminum foil and difficult to work with. What those who have come into O Scale in the last twenty years or interested me, however, is the possibility of its ancestry for a so and have known only the excellent, highly-detailed products slightly more familiar line, the corrugated building kits offered available from the manufacturers and retailers who advertise by Ed Suydam, using solderable tinplate. There seems to have in OST, to conceive of a time when nothing remotely like them been a connection among Tru-Scale (mostly remembered for was available. As one looks at older railroads, one sees locomo- its milled-wood roadbed), Ayres, and Suydam, with designs tives and rolling stock, track, and even some scenery (hills, cuts, passing from one to the other in turn. All three were located in and tunnels especially, likely also bridges and trestles), all famil- mushrooming post-war southern California. Perhaps a reader can iar on today’s model railroads. Look for the buildings, though; speak more authoritatively about the relations among the own- there’s rarely more than an occasional station. Actually, tinplat- ers. While Suydam’s HO line had many more offerings than in ers did better, particularly with European-styled imports by O Scale (identifiable by being packed in a green box, rather than Maerklin and Hornby, but most modelers were concerned with the more-typical yellow one), he offered a reasonable selection getting their track down, trains running and not much beyond of basic industrial-type buildings. These were of a type often that. seen in the 1940s/1950s real world where rapid (and inexpen- The single greatest influence in changing that situation was sive) construction, using techniques developed during the war, surely Frank Ellison. He was one of the first model railroad- was common. Lionel currently catalogs a Quonset hut, but oth- ers to articulate a rationale for his railroad, based on prototype erwise one is now left to scratchbuilding to produce a model of practice. This required a setting or context in which the trains this once-common structure. Modern “Butler” style construction would operate with, not only railroad-oriented structures along uses similar methods and materials. the right of way, but, more importantly, various industries to Scanning the All Nation and Boxcar Ken catalogs from the generate and receive traffic and justify operating the trains in the early ‘60s, the Suydam line included several structures of note. first place. In his series in Model Railroader in the 1940s (mostly The line consisted of a furniture factory as a trackside industry, collected in the long out-of-print Fawcett paperback, Railroad- a water pump house with wellhead tower, a warehouse or “gen- ing with Frank Ellison) and in many articles in Lionel’s Model eral purpose factory” (same sized kit as the furniture factory, but Builder, he demonstrated how to build structures and scenery. with different ends and roof detail), a sawmill shed, the North- As anyone who has learned more about him knows, it was his side Tool and Die Company (with a distinctive sawtooth roof), extensive background in professional theatre that prepared him and the Black Bart Mine. There was a ringer in the line, a wood to stage a production for a cast, called the Delta Lines. As with interlocking tower and track-gang shed, manufactured from mat- working theatricals, image was more important than reality, and board (like many of the Suydam HO structures that originated as Ellison was not so much concerned with exact scale models as Ayres kits) and apparently based on an SP prototype. In addition with suggesting a miniature representation of the full-sized world to replacing the aluminum sheet (although he continued to sell through which real trains ran, but that was more than sufficient. it separately) with tinplate, Suydam replaced the wood brac- Even today, model railroaders appreciate that, however excellent ing with tinplate angles to which the sheets would be soldered an individual structure may be with laser-cut wood, Styrene, ure- during assembly. This resulted in a very sturdy model. As well, thane, white metal and dental-stone castings, it needs to be part printed windows on acetate sheet were provided, so that one of a larger scene. Model railroaders of a certain age still genu- no longer had to scribe the panes on the lumarith. The current flect towards New Orleans when his name is invoked. owner of the line, Alpine Division Scale Models, has assured me I was thinking of this when I bought a mostly-untouched Tru- of his willingness to consider producing these long-unavailable Scale “Corrugated Aluminum U-Build-Kit” some months ago O Scale structures, if there is sufficient interest, and even to pro- from Jerry Snow (who was disposing of a remarkable estate with duce some of the matboard kits formerly available only in HO in a wide variety of early kits). It was produced in the immediate a more proper size. Vote with your dollars. post-WWII years, when the second generation of scale model When I was fairly new to O Scale in the late 1970s, Jim Sycks railroading really took off, and it is not really a kit for any particu- introduced me to the Model Structures Company of Santa Cruz, lar structure so much as a selection of various components from California. He showed me their catalog (by then more a price which one might build different kinds of structures. The instruc- list with a few illustrations). What really impressed me was tion sheet offers views of a number of credible possibilities, that almost all of their kits were based on a specific prototype, although there is no indication whether any had actual proto- which was still not common some thirty-odd years ago. I was types. The instructions say, “We have attempted in our two years also impressed by the prices, which were NOT cheap. Their of experimentation to make this kit one of the most complete kits came two ways. “The Standard Kit is designed for the man kits of its kind. And that is why it comes complete with an ample who has a small power saw and drill press…” while “The Master supply of corrugated metal, wood strips for framing, lumarith [an Kit is a hand-assembly job. Only a few simple hand tools are older kind of clear plastic] for windows, rivets for ventilator and required.” smoke stack detail, door slides for moveable doors, and a strip of I have since acquired a first edition catalog from 1940, and industrial ladder stock.” it is impressive to see what one could buy in those early days,
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 13 if one could afford the tariff. Among the more impressive mod- Suncoast kits also resemble some of the Model Structures ones. els were a five-stall roundhouse “which is an exact copy of the Bob Colson’s All Nation also, apparently, took over production Wabash at North Kansas City” with all interior details including of Model Structures’ extensive bridge, trestle, and tunnel portal pits and lighting, a coaling station and related kit for the sand bin line during the 1960s. It’s another of those cases where research and dryer house from the Alton Railroad (at Venice, IL), a splen- starts to generate more questions than answers, I guess. did two-stall enginehouse (prototype not identified) comparable Among the other early structures produced, I should mention to their roundhouse, a modern-design (for 1940) large brick pas- Skyline, who offered die-cut printed cardboard kits with wood senger station, water towers incorporating details from the SP internal bracing in both O Scale and HO/OO. They had a fairly and B&O applied to the AREA standard 50K gallon design, and extensive selection, much of it recognizably-based on Eastern an SP freighthouse with two-story office. The line also included prototypes, particularly the Pennsylvania Railroad, although many smaller structures. much of their market was the toy train crowd. Ideal Model Com- By 1960, the lineage starts to get murky, however, as two of pany also had card structure kits of a somewhat better quality their kits (the country combination station and the through-girder and design, although mostly in HO. By the 1950s, Model Hob- bridge) were catalogued by All Nation as their own production, bies kits from Pennsylvania offered good-quality, adequately succeeding Model Structures. I also own a kit, for the same detailed structures, almost all based on specific prototypes from model of the station, produced by Arvid Anderson. To mention the region. Unfortunately most were, again, in HO but with Anderson suggests, to most O Scalers, his brass car kits or track- some smaller O Scale ones, such as a passenger shelter, a tool- work components. house, a wayside waiting room, a station platform, and several Somewhere he also kinds of fences. One also may occasionally still find boxes of Irish Tracklayer had a hand in the sta- Model Hobbies ties at shows. Boxcar Ken, normally a wholesaler tion kit, and I suspect and retail mail-order house, produced a kit for cattle pens with Now available: a rail insulator .010" it may have been a loading chute. Lastly, I possess a Purina Chows “Pine Bluff” thick for code 148 rail, $2.00 inc. S&H. incorporated later feedmill kit, primarily of matboard and wood, produced by Argy. Check our website for brass steam into the Suncoast This (circa 1952) product is very similar in construction to the and diesel castings. line. Suncoast has HO Suydam line; I have some sense that Argy was a predecessor Under development: a highly detailed had what looks like of Ayres, but I just don’t know enough about them. It’s a nice kit double slip switch, complete with an improved ver- for a small trackside industry. Around the fringes of the hobby switch motors. A true plug and play sion of it from their were small manufacturers of kits designed primarily for use by installation. beginnings, going architectural firms, mostly tract houses of the sort going up in from wood to card to suburban developments all over the country. WWW.IRISHTRACKLAYER.COM Styrene construction. Scace is calling “Board!” again, so any more thoughts on pre- 2682 West Palo Alto Ave Some of the smaller 1960 structures will have to await another column; nominations Fresno, CA 93711 from the readership gratefully accepted. u
April 1 & 2, 2006 June 24 &25, 2006 Maryland State Fairgrounds Timonium, MD Hours: Sat 9-4; Sun 10-4 Show Admission: $7 per person
14 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 ullet River SOO Line Caboose odel Works M 118 Huson Ct. • Plymouth, WI 53073 O Scale Phone 920-892-8159 www. mulletrivermodelworks.com Laser cut plywood body with working windows Full interior with roof ribs and purloins Separate doors can be modeled in open position Urethane underframe Decal artwork and lettering provided by the SOO Line Historical and Technical Society Kit # 401001 SOO Caboose- single cupola window $95.00 Kit # 401002 SOO Caboose -two cupola windows $95.00 Kit # 401003 DSS&A version of same car $95.00 Shipping and Handling $5.00 for US orders
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Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 15 Building a Small O Scale Layout Part Eight Michael Culham
On our model railroad layouts, we are trying to create a min- toilet nowadays. In my typical manner of using humorous com- iature world that includes railroad tracks, landscapes, streets and pany names on my layout, I decided to name my new plumb- buildings. We would like to have these looking as realistic as pos- ing business after him. With all this decided, it was time to sible. I have found that, to be able to make things more like the start painting my building, I decided on the colors I would use, real world that we are trying to model, you need to include struc- grabbed my paintbrushes and got to it. tures that aren’t served by the railroad as well as ones that are. Painting a Building Over the last couple parts of this article I have shown you If you have been following this series, you will have discov- how to do the scenery. In Part Seven we created a scene, ered that I like to use Polly Scale paints, as they are non-toxic although one of the components still remains to be done, the and do not have a strong smell. They are also easy to use. The building. Starting in this issue, I am going to walk you through colors I have chosen are #411388 SCL Hopper Car Beige and the techniques I use to take a plain plastic building and make it #414230 BAR Blue, to contrast a little with the red and yellow- look more realistic. We’ll upgrade our building with paint, signs, ish brick colors already used on the layout. In Photos 2 through weathering and details, plus I will show you how to make an interior for it. 2 1
3
In Photo 1 you can see the building that I have chosen to use in this scene. You may recognize it as the office building from Walthers’ lumberyard kit. On my old layout, I used two of these kits to make my lumberyard, but I only used one of the office buildings. The other one was put aside with the thought of using it for another purpose in the future. To fit the available space in this scene, on the new layout, I wanted a small structure that was not served by the railroad. The little office building is ideal for this purpose, and will fit into this scene very nicely. 4 All I had to do was come up with a type of business that would suit my needs, one that you could find using an older wood structure such as this. I started rooting around through my drawers of detail parts to see if I had anything that would give me some inspiration. I came across some old Walthers metal castings of toilets and sinks, as well as a Berkshire Valley bathtub kit. A plumbing supply house would be a perfect job for this structure and I could use these detail parts in and around the building. All I needed now was a name for my newly found business. I remember reading, somewhere, that the person who designed the first flush toilet was a gentleman called John Crap- per, hence we sometimes use his first or last name to describe a
16 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 4, you can see how I have painted on the beige paint. I use a 1/4” wide brush for this and I’ve only finished the first light coat 8 of paint. Don’t try and paint with one thick coat; you can ruin your model. Once the first coat has dried (about fifteen to twen- ty minutes), I apply a second light coat. You will notice I like to paint the walls before I assemble the building. It’s a lot easier for me to handle them instead of trying to hold a box shape in my hands, especially in O Scale. One of the other nice things I like about Polly Scale paint is, when it dries, it settles down nice and smooth without any 5
you need to do two light coats. Don’t forget to paint the inside edges of the door and window frames as well. Paint all the walls the same way, as shown in Photos 7 and 8. Put them aside and
9
6
10
brush marks, giving an airbrush-like finish. Let the beige paint dry overnight. Then start painting on the blue, as seen in Photos #5 and #6. For the blue color, I use a 1/8” thick brush. Again,
7
let them dry. Once they are dry, go back with a fine brush and do any touchups. Your walls are now done (Photos 9 and 10). Don’t forget to paint the backs of the walls above the roofline and down the back edges (Photo 11).
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 17 11 (roofing gravel being only about a quarter inch in size in real life) would be too small to duplicate in O Scale. Using the techniques that I have described, painting struc- tures is quite easy and if you take your time you can do a good job. These same techniques can be used on any sort of build- ings. Once the building is all painted you are ready to put on the signs. Making Your Own Signs To make signs for my buildings, I use a drawing program on my computer called Corel Draw Essentials, as you can see in Photo 14. I create all the signs and print them off onto plain 14
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white paper (Photo 15). I cut them out from the sheet of paper, then spread a thin coating of white glue on the back and apply them to the building. You could print them out onto white decal paper and apply them as you would any decal, if you prefer. With the signs on the building, we are all ready to do the weath- ering and add details. I will show you how to do this in Part Nine of this series. In addition to sign creation, I have used the Corel Draw program to do all the drawings used in this series, as well as the track plan. It is an easy program to use. So until next time... Next paint the windows and doors with the same colors as the Happy modeling. u walls. I like to do this while they are still on the sprue (Photo 12); this makes them easier to handle. Once the paint has dried, cut them off with a sprue cutter and glue them in place (Photo 13). The next thing to paint is the roof, which I painted Grimy Black # 414137. I find this color works well for a tar and gravel roof. I do not try to recreate the gravel as the individual pieces
18 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Nickel Plate Models Deichman’s Depot O Scale models, parts, decals, newsletter for Nickel Plate and related roads. NKP War Emergency Cabooses ATLAS O Scale 2-Rail Road Numbers 1343-1362, brass, from Ajin. 7463 WM 40' SS Box $48.00 Beautiful. Limited run. Unpainted: $279. Factory- 7478 Muncie & Western 40' SS Box $52.00 painted “High Speed Service”. 7487 RF&P 40' Steel Rebuilt Box $52.00 $369 each plus $15 shipping. Parts, O5w and 7488 C&O 40' Steel Rebuilt Box $48.00 Proto48 trucks also available 7627 Chessie Ext. Vis. Caboose $67.00 NKP 1900 Series Flat Cars 7681 Shawmut NE-6 Caboose $68.00 Exclusive from Red Caboose. Painted, six new 7781 Virginia H21a Hopper $57.00 numbers, also painted black and unlettered. 9116 College Inn 40' Reefer $57.00 Assembled, metal wheels. $45.00 each, plus $7 9122 Harding Butter 40' Reefer $59.00 shipping; $255 for six-car set, plus $20 shipping. 9152 Hardy Salt 40' Reefer $57.00 Upcoming Projects 9212 Spencer 11K Tanker $58.00 NKP Rider Cars (Converted Boxcars) 7974 89'4" Sou. Intermodal Flat $57.00 NKP/NYC 40 Ton Double Sheathed Box Cars 7982 89'4" MC Intermodal Flat $57.00 Brass from Ajin. Limited runs. 7024/25 # 5 Turnouts, each $49.00 NKP/WLE Wood Caboose Kit $105 7021/22 # 7.5 Turnouts, each $54.00 Exclusive to NPM by Mullet River Model Works S&H $8.00 for 1 car, $10.00 for 2 cars, Nickel Plate Hudsons $11.00 for 3 or more cars. Coming in brass from Weaver. Reserve now through Nickel Plate Models for 2006 delivery. Back by Popular Demand - CUSTOM RUN Our Mother’s Cocoa Car 40' Woodside Steam Write, call or email for order form, product list Era Reefer; 3-rail $62.95, 2 rail $65.95 or NKP O Scale newsletter. plus S&H. Due in late Oct. 2005. Nickel Plate Models Place your order now! 13732 Lakeside Dr Clarksville MD 21029 Deichman’s Depot 301-854-3200 110 Ivyside Dr, York PA 17402 Ph: 717-755-1108 • Fax: 717-840-9650 [email protected] [email protected] check our website at trainresource.com www.deichmansdepot.com
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 19 31280 Groesbeck,‑ Fraser, MI 48026 586-296-6116 Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-6, Sun 12-5 P&D HobbyHobby ShopShop Fax: 586-296-5642 P&DP&D www.pdhobbyshop.com P&D Hobby F Unit Sale Model shown is #8001
POWERED F “A” Units: Reg. $350, SALE $289.99 POWERED F “B” Units: Reg. $315, SALE $264.99 #7001 EMD F3-Ph4, F7-Ph1 early , 36" low fans, 36" dy- #3001 EMD F3-Ph3, F7-Ph1, 36" low fans, 36" dynamic namic brake, 2 portholes, horiz grilles brake, 3 portholes, horiz grilles #8001 EMD F7-Ph1 late, F7-Ph2, 36" low fans, 48" dynamic #4001 EMD F7-Ph1 (late), F7-Ph2, F9, 36" low fans, 48" brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles (shown above) dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles #9001 EMD F9, 36" fans, 48" dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
UNPOWERED F “A” Units: Reg. $225, SALE $189.99 UNPOWERED F “B” Units: Reg. $200, SALE $169.99 #7002 EMD F3-Ph4, F7-Ph1 early , 36" low fans, 36" dy- #3002 EMD F3-Ph3, F7-Ph1, 36" low fans, 36" dynamic namic brake, 2 portholes, horiz grilles brake, 3 portholes, horiz grilles #8002 EMD F7-Ph1 late, F7-Ph2, 36" low fans, 48" dynamic #4002 EMD F7-Ph1 (late), F7-Ph2, F9, 36" low fans, 48" brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles #9002 EMD F9, 36" fans, 48" dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
F Unit “A” Body KITS: reg. $99.95, on sale $82.99 F Unit “B” Body KITS: reg. $94.99, on sale $79.99 #7000 EMD F3-Ph4, F7-Ph1 early , 36" low fans, 36" dy- #3000 EMD F3-Ph3, F7-Ph1, 36" low fans, 36" dynamic namic brake, 2 portholes, horiz grilles brake, 3 portholes, horiz grilles #8000 EMD F7-Ph1 late, F7-Ph2, 36" low fans, 48" dynamic #4000 EMD F7-Ph1 (late), F7-Ph2, F9, 36" low fans, 48" brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles #9000 EMD F9, 36" fans, 48" dynamic brake, 2 portholes, Farr (vert) grilles
All kits include brass etched grills, appropriate detailed parts, and preformed grab irons for indicated model. These kits include only the parts above the frame. Lenses & Portholes Marty Iftody
hold and turn the tubing just as well. Wear a face shield, earplugs, and a qual- ity two-elastic “N-95” dust mask when you do this. You can experiment more if you want to, but you’ll find that pushing the sharp- ened tubes into clear Styrene with a drill press accomplishes nothing more than dulling the tube and uselessly embossing the plastic. You’ll need heat on the tubing. The torch I used was a common plumber’s type, and I made the flame as small as possible and kept moving it around on the tube. If you use excessive heat, the window will bend in the middle or a circular shape may appear in the middle. Make twice as many as you need. Wear a faceshield when Do you own a Diesel with portholes? Did you make Stuart you do this; it would be terrible to burn your face because you Ramsey’s aluminum headlight reflector from his article in OST were clumsy. Also do this outdoors, if possible, so the fumes won’t #13 and now you need a lens for it? Do you want to know collect in your workshop. Choose an overcast day, or a shady where you can get great headlight lenses, almost free? spot, because you won’t be able to see the flame in bright sunlight. You must have said yes to at least one of these. Making By the way, I’ve found “grain-of-rice” bulbs to be the best for lenses and portholes is not as hard as you think. Both are made headlights cut from disposable camera lenses. Since the lens is of plastic, and porthole windows are easily made using some real, it actually magnifies and diffuses the light, making a tiny bulb clear Styrene purchased at your hobby shop. appear more impressive. I’ve tried some larger bulbs with their To make the headlight lenses, however, you need to visit own lenses, but their performance was disappointing. They draw a camera store and ask to see the recycling bin. Disposable more current and aren’t as bright. cameras have been available for years now. They come in dif- So, follow the directions in the photo captions and I guarantee ferent configurations, but they all have plastic lenses. Go to your that once you have the materials it won’t take long (unless you’re nearest camera store and take as many garbage, or “recyclable”, sloppy with the torch) to crank out all the round windows and cameras home with you as you can. These are cameras that lenses you’ll ever need. With care, you should end up with some have had the roll of film removed by the staff, and have been bright headlights and sharp flush-mounted porthole windows. thrown away. Maybe bring this magazine and show them what I would like to thank my father-in-law, Alberto Hurtado you want to do. Also, wear rubber gloves when you take apart Moreno, for making this article possible by buying my wife and the cameras, because it’s easy to get an electrical shock! me a digital camera. That’s his National of Mexico F9 I was Now, we need to make the windows or lenses round and to working on. u size for the model we’re working on. Someone suggested to me that the lens or the Styrene could be held in a jig and milled as the jig is turned. Although that might work, I don’t have a mill- ing machine. We’re in Mel Thornburgh territory here, so here’s how I do it. Whether you’re making headlights with camera lenses or round windows with clear Styrene sheet, the pieces can be cut with heated brass tubing. It’s tricky to know what the final size will be. The size you think the tube will cut will be wrong, since some plastic melts away. The best way to use this less-than- precise process is to have several brass tubes of different sizes. I Everything in this picture is free! On the left are small lenses, in the middle sharpened one end of each tube from the inside, and the other are medium and larger ones, and on the right are some contacts from end was sharpened from the outside. This way, for every tube, I disposable flash cameras. In the front are several finished lenses with a got two tools in one. I used a lathe and a Dremel motor-tool to penny to give some idea of size. grind the ends of the tubes, but a drill with a large chuck would (Continued on next page) Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 21 sides that you don’t peel away until you’re ready to use it. You can keep the sheet around for years and not scratch it. Wear a faceshield when you do this, it would be terrible to burn you face because you were clumsy. Also do this outdoors if possible so the fumes won’t collect in your workshop, and not in bright daylight because you won’t be able to see the flame. The torch I used was a common plumber’s type, and I made the flame as small as These are the basic tools you will need to make possible and kept moving it around on the tube. lenses and porthole windows. The visegrips hold If you use excessive heat, the window will bend the tube and prevent you from getting burned. The in the middle or a circular shape may appear in four tubes are in ascending sizes, and each has By now, you should have several lenses and a the middle.. Heat the tube just enough to make it been bevelled concave on one end, and convex small pile of windows that have stringy bits of gently sink into the plastic down to the piece of on the other with a Dremel tool. To choose which plastic hanging off them. You have to clean these scrap wood, then take away the torch. Make twice diameter tubes you will need, take your unfinished up! A half-piece of 220 grit sandpaper folded into as many as you need. model into your hobby shop and find the tubing thirds like they do in an auto body shop is a good you believe to be the right diameter. Then also buy tool for this job. It has more surface area than a the next size or two larger, and the next size or file, and it will bend to conform to curves. two smaller.
Cleaning up a porthole window. Don’t remove too much material! Keep checking the fit with the model in front of you, and don’t forget to wear a Finding the right-sized tube for an Atlas F9. Once you’ve cut a window, 9 times out of 10 you’ll dust mask. If you still have some plastic left on find it stuck in the tube! To get it out, I made a jig the window after you have the right shape, care- consisting of a stick in a vice. Just heat the tube fully cut it away with a sharp X-Acto knife. again and the window should pop up like a tin can lid. Don’t use excessive heat or the window will bend. The first time I tried this, I had the torch set on 100% . . . the window turned into a little ball of molten plastic.
A finished porthole window. You’ll get faster and I’ve arranged the tubes like a telescope to show faster as you make more. If you’re making win- the ascending/descending diameters. If you cut dows for an E8, you have only seven more to go! a lens or window too big with the concave end, try the convex end. If that’s still too big, use the concave end of the next smallest tube.
A headlight lens for an Atlas F9 is being cut from a large disposable-camera lens. The procedure is exactly the same as cutting a porthole window, but easier because, after the hot tube has sunk CA or MEK cement will fog the windows and down to the scrap wood, you can pull away the lenses you have so carefully made. Epoxy will be excess plastic. This is possible because the a yellow color when it dries, and white glue will plastic the lens is cast from is much more brittle not dry clear. My favorite window glue is called than styrene. Remove the cut lens from the tube “Wilhold R/C 56”, from my days with radio-con- A porthole window is being cut from 0.030” clear the same way you removed the cut porthole trolled airplanes. It’s made specifically for gluing styrene. Thinner styrene would be okay. I like this window, using a stick in a vise. Again, make more clear plastic canopies in place. It’s water-soluble, type because it has protective plastic on both than you need. and I like to apply it with a toothpick.
22 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Fitting a porthole window in place. You can see a pile of unfinished windows in front of the model, and the excess plastic that needs to be removed from them. I pick, finish, and fit as I go in order to choose only the best windows. A headlight lens is installed in exactly the same way. An installed porthole window. Sometimes, you might get your fingerprints on the window or lens as you move it into position for gluing. No problem! The “Wilhold R/C 56” glue can be washed away with some soap and water, and you can start again. You can also remove fingerprints or dust from an installed window with a wet Q-tip. East Gary Car Co. Dept OST BF&M 3828 St. Joseph Ct Lake Station IN 46405 They’re Back! Baldwin Forge & Machine Former Indianapolis Car Company sides are now available from new tooling. Box 5, Baldwin MD 21013 Parts #100 & #200 How can we help you? Custom machine $3.00 each work, 3-R to 2-R conversions for steam, diesel or electric. Driver castings machined. General repairs to O Scale loco- motives. Call Joe, evenings 7 to 9 PM. Orders under $50 please add $4.50 for postage and handling. SASE for updated list. 410-592-5275 or [email protected]
Nos. 16001-18500 O SCALE/PROTO 48 • Kit #124/124-P … $49.95 •Based on 1917 prototype built by Mt. Vernon Car Co. •Double sheath with Dreadnought ends •Steel underframe •Andrews trucks •Kit includes couplers and decals Also available – SACRAMENTO NORTHERN Boxcar Nos. 2301-2350 Kit #125/125-P … $49.95 � Coming soon – SP Sugar Beet Gondola
FOX HOLLOW MINING Co. KIT #404 set on flat First in surface or a series mountain of com- side, fully panion detailed building. loading bays.
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Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 23 Need something different? Switch to B.T.S. ! Depressed-Center Flatcar In O Scale!
Designed to carry heavy and/or tall loads, the 40’, 90-ton depressed-center flatcar is a unique car that will attract attention. It can be used in mainline freight service or as part of a work train with a piece of heavy equipment on top. The unpainted kit consists of high-quality, no-odor urethane castings for the body, Red Caboose plastic trucks, and brass & urethane brake components under both ends of the car. Less decals and couplers. #19209 O Scale Depressed-Center Flatcar Kit $ 89.95
Bell Crawler - Model 36 Everyone needs several of these mechanical beasts. Offered with and without the blade, they are perfect as a load on the flatcar above, carving a road out of the woods, or hauling logs to the railroad. These freelanced model kits consists of high-quality, no-odor urethane castings with brass wire, NS mesh, decals, and a few other bits. Approx. size as shown - scale 20’ long with a 10’-6” wide blade.
#18600 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Blade $129.95 #18601 O Scale Crawler 36 w/o Blade $109.95 #18604 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Logging Arch $tba
#19209 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Blade $ 129 .95 #19209 O Scale Crawler 36 w/o Blade $ 109.95
The Logging Arch is in production now, but the model was not ready in time for an ad photo.
Check our web site!!
P O Box 856 Web: www.btsrr.com Elkins, WV 26241 E-Mail: [email protected] Full Catalog - $5.00 Phone: 304-637-4510 24 • O Scale Trains -Mar/Apr ’06 Fax: 304-637-4506 Celebrating over 26 Years of Service since 1979 Need something different? Switch to B.T.S. ! More Scenery Tricks on the Depressed-Center BRHRR.
Flatcar There are lots of scenes on the BRHRR using figures mainly from Arttista and In O Scale! Prieser. Here are some examples.
Designed to carry heavy and/or tall loads, the 40’, 90-ton depressed-center flatcar is a unique car that will attract attention. It can be used in mainline freight service or as part of a work train with a piece of heavy equipment on top. The unpainted kit consists of high-quality, no-odor urethane castings for the body, Red Caboose plastic trucks, and brass & urethane brake components under both ends of the car. Less decals and couplers. #19209 O Scale Depressed-Center Flatcar Kit $ 89.95
Bell Crawler - Model 36 Everyone needs several of these mechanical beasts. Offered with and without the blade, they are perfect as a load on the flatcar above, carving a road out of the woods, or hauling logs to the railroad. These freelanced model kits consists of high-quality, no-odor urethane castings with brass wire, NS mesh, H decals, and a few other bits. Approx. size as shown - scale 20’ long with a 10’-6” wide blade.
#18600 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Blade $129.95 #18601 O Scale Crawler 36 w/o Blade $109.95 #18604 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Logging Arch $tba
#19209 O Scale Crawler 36 w/ Blade $ 129 .95 #19209 O Scale Crawler 36 w/o Blade $ 109.95
February 2 - 4, 2006, San Francisco, CA area 16th Annual O Scale West Meet LSSAE for information to: How To: O Scale West, Dept. OSK The Logging Arch is in 876 Boyce Avenue production now, but the Get Started in Palo Alto, CA 94301-3003 July 17-23, 2006, Parsippany, NJ model was not ready in 2006 O Scale National Convention 2-Rail Scale LSSAE for information to: time for an ad photo. Robert Lavezzi C/O New York Society of Model Engineers Realistic • Accurate • Affordable 341 Hoboken Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Come Discover Modern O-Scale Models September 22- 23, 2006, Indianapolis, IN area Check our web site!! Indianapolis Midwest "O" Scale Fall Meet at These 2-Rail O-Scale Meets LSSAE for information to: James Canter, Dept. OSK 1203 Rotherham Lane Visit www.oscalekings.org for links to many 2-rail O-scale sites. Beech Grove, IN 46107-3323 This ad runs twice a year, so check it in 6 months for Sept 30 - Oct 1, 2006, Oklahoma City, OK area meets that have been added or changed dates. Southwest O Scale Meet For an illustrated brochure please send an LSSAE #12 envelope to: LSSAE for information to: P O Box 856 Web: www.btsrr.com George B. Wallace, Dept. OSK O Scale Kings, 304 Christopher Place, Union, MO 63084-2931. 11937 Stratford Drive Elkins, WV 26241 E-Mail: [email protected] Ad sponsored by O Scale Kings and the above listed 2-rail O scale meets. Oklahoma City, OK 73120 Full Catalog - $5.00 Phone: 304-637-4510 Fax: 304-637-4506 Celebrating over 26 Years of Service since 1979 Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 25 The Art of Finescale Michael Cougill
The Long and The Short of It Much has been written about the applies to the flow and geometry of track. I’ll be running modern equipment increased realism of finescale trackwork. model track as much as to the amount of (1970s-1990s era cars), so the long turn- Modelers working in Proto48 often detail one includes. What about using a outs will complement the car lengths spare no effort to make their track look higher numbered turnout than normal? nicely. as realistic as possible, with individual How about a #10 or even a #12 instead My layout design process consisted tieplates, jointbars every 39’, and all the of the standard #6 or #8? I know, I know; of a series of personal choices reflecting other bells and whistles you can imag- somebody is already screaming, “Who’s my interests in the hobby. Your choices ine. If you read my article “The Track as got the space for something that big?” will be just as personal and very different Scenery” in this issue, then you know O Scale is big; a #10 turnout measures from mine. Here’s the core of my think- I’m one of that crowd. around 18-3/4” from the points to the ing. I chose #10s based on appearance as What I’d like to discuss here is a little tip of the frog. By the time you reach the much (if not perhaps more so) as opera- different. When I think of building a clearance point where two cars won’t tion. I just don’t like the looks of a short layout to finescale standards, naturally sideswipe each other, we’re over four numbered turnout trying to masquerade the appearance of the track and wheels feet in distance from the points. I agree, as mainline trackage, at least not on my comes to mind. However, I think the term higher numbered turnouts eat space layout. could be used in a much broader sense quickly. I also agree that there are many We make choices and compromises than that. I like to think of it as applicable situations from the prototype where a galore in this hobby. O Scalers have to to every aspect of a layout (except wiring short numbered turnout is appropriate, make more compromises than others, I and benchwork maybe). Think beyond such as industrial areas, street trackage, suppose. Those who want the maximum track for a minute. What about scenery? narrow-gauge and so on. I’m not saying to amount of track and operation in a given What would constitute finescale scenery? use larger turnouts unilaterally; but to try space and who don’t really care how it Individual blades of grass, or tree leaves? them where they would be used on the looks are going to have a very different Let’s hope not! What about structures? prototype. set of criteria than I do, and I say more Does a contest-quality structure built I’ve described my layout before. It’s a power to them. Do what you enjoy in from individual boards of stripwood or simple shelf style switching pike 2’ wide the hobby and have fun. That’s what Styrene qualify as finescale? by 24’ long. In essence, I’m modeling a I’m doing. But let me suggest that just I don’t want to invent new terms or single scene, featuring a large industry because something hasn’t been done generate stupid controversies. I’m simply with several car spots, a team track and before, or isn’t considered part of con- suggesting that the term “finescale” could other features. I’ll have nine turnouts, ventional wisdom in the hobby, doesn’t be more broadly applied to non-tradi- when all is said and done. Three of them mean it shouldn’t be considered. Proto- tional areas of modeling. Let’s go back will be #7s, all the rest are #10, includ- typical trackwork and long turnouts aren’t to track for a moment. I think finescale ing those at the ends of the run-around the exclusive domain of P48. Folks work- ing in Standard O can have track that’s just as nice looking as any, and a lot of them do. It all really boils down to choos- ing what works for you and going for it. Best regards, Mike u
One end of the author’s P48 finescale layout, featuring a #10 crossover with Code 125 rail in the foreground with the unstained ties for a #7 turnout leading to the team track behind.
26 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 ron603thrd.qxd 1/4/2006 1:43 PM Page 1
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28 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Running Trains With Their Own Fuel A Contrarian Uses Battery-Powered Radio Control Bob Boelter
This eastbound train leaving Dodgeville is self-propelled with battery power. The engineer’s only concern is good trackwork and being on the lookout for collisions. Wiring, blocks, and short circuits are of no concern.
When I started building my freelanced O Scale Great West- additional cost. Another negative consideration is having teth- ern in 1990, and everyone was using cab control, I wanted to ered controllers on a walk-around system. use command control. Now, when the move is to DCC, I’m My preference now is for wireless. During my contemplation headed in another direction. time, I read a fascinating article (written by David Hull) about Early in my layout’s construction, Keller Engineering’s battery-powered radio control, in the October 1999 48/ft O Onboard system appealed to me because it had the ability to Scale News. He described the RCS control system, made in Aus- add sound. When I built the layout, I used very rugged wiring tralia, utilizing gel-cell batteries hidden in a flat car for power on as per Keller’s recommendation. Bus lines are 8-gauge wire to an outdoor O Scale layout. I decided to experiment with Aristo- minimize voltage loss. Virtually every three-foot section of track Craft’s onboard radio control (now sold under the Crest brand). has a feeder line soldered to the bottom side of rail joiners at The Aristo system is reasonably priced and, like RCS, operates each end. Every turnout has wiring connecting the frog to the on the 27 Mhz band. It is a durable system designed for large- direction of travel. The layout is divided into six large blocks for scale outdoor use. The system consists of a hand-held transmit- trouble-shooting. The Onboard system requires a constant 14 ter (CRE 55473) and onboard receiver (CRE 55490). A combined volts on the track. set is offered (CRE 55492). A plus is that the system will run on Despite the wiring safeguards, I had control problems. It was my existing constant 14-volt DC track power, and will not inter- always difficult to locate the source of the problem because fere with trains running with Keller receivers. The Aristo/Crest they would often happen in layers. The fussiness of the control receivers are large, which is okay for O Scale cab units (the system, bad locomotive transmissions, sloppy engine/truck majority of the Great Western’s power are EMD F-units or Alco sideframes causing dreaded short circuits, these are things that FAs) but a little too big for narrow hood switchers. all command control systems hate. I learned that electrical The Aristo-Craft/Crest system provides lots of options. If transmission and sideframe problems were common with early a receiver won’t fit in a locomotive, I can put a receiver in a 1980s O Scale brass imported Diesel locomotives, making them caboose for the switchers, or use conventional DC controlled better to look at than to run. by Crest’s external stationary R/C receiver (CRE 55471) in each When DCC took model railroading into a new world in yard. The system didn’t necessarily solve the problem of poor the mid-90s, the Keller Onboard system disappeared from the running engines until I tried battery power. Now those old brass market. Like others, I hung in there for a while, but then began engines run like finely tuned watches, leaving me with no cares investigating alternatives. As I considered the options available, I about wiring, sloppy sideframes or short circuits. Part of this wasn’t convinced that DCC was going to solve all my train run- success comes from current state-of-the-art battery technology, ning problems short of spending the money for all new motive an outcome of the rapid growth of digital and cellular phones. power. Of course, converting a large railroad to DCC is a major I used two Radio Shack 7.2 nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) bat- Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 29 tery packs (RS 23-421), intended for radio controlled cars, wired in series (DO NOT WIRE IN PARALLEL) to provide 14.4 volts. As the man at the Radio Shack store said, “That’s some serious power!” NiMH batteries are longer lasting than NiCADs and will take a charge without suffering from a memory. The battery packs are rated at 3,000 mA/h (milliamps per hour), which is double the rating of the traditional NiCADs. I put the battery packs in a boxcar with a metal underframe, to hold the significant weight of the batteries (The new Atlas 53’ boxcars are excellent for this purpose.) In addition to the batter- ies, the wiring goes through a small project box (RS 270-1801) containing a fuse holder for a 4 amp fuse (RS 270-1066) and an on-off switch (RS 275-618A). The extra matching connectors are from Radio Shack’s 7.2V battery pack and R/C Car Connector Repair Kit (RS 23-445). That box goes in the boxcar as well. The Engine units with trailing battery car. The metal connectors are from Radio boxcar body rides on the frame. I don’t use attaching screws so Shack without their plastic housings. The wire from the boxcar is fairly heavy to protect it from the hole drilled in the floor. The wire from the locomotive the body can easily be removed to reach the on-off switch and connector is very flexible to allow for play on curved track. to charge batteries. Sets of male/female connectors connect the battery car to the motive power. The connectors from Radio Shack come in various pin configurations. For example, 12 con- nector females are RS 274-242 and corresponding males are RS 274-232. I don’t need the plastic housing because I mount one set on either side of the coupler, ensuring that they won’t touch. The evening before an operating session, I charge the bat- teries. Right now there are four fueling locations on the layout, meaning battery chargers are plugged into a power strip below the layout at four stations. To refuel an engine the boxcar body is removed, the batteries disconnected from the project box, and each is plugged into a charger. It takes five hours for a com- plete charge. Getting gassed-up. Before operating sessions it’s a simple matter of An engine hauling a fifteen-car train will run continuously for disconnecting the batteries from the project box and plugging them into charging units. about two hours before a charge is necessary. That’s more than ample time for a start-and-stop operating session. If the battery switch is turned off in the boxcar, the engine can be occasion- ally run for months before a charge is necessary. If not switched off, there is a slight drain and the batteries will be completely discharged in a week or two. If you recall, I mentioned the importance of sound. Crest offers a plug-in accessory control unit (CRE 55495). It contains five relay switches that can be activated by remote control. Of the five switches, three are on-off (latching) for things like head- lights, back-up lights and bells on sound units. Two are momen- tary relays to accommodate whistle or horn sounds. Adding The batteries are wired in series through a control box containing a SPST sound from Dallee Electronics to a very satisfying control system on-off switch and an inline fuse holder. The batteries and project box are is my next project. With rapidly improving battery technology, secured to the car frame and to each other with Velcro strips. don’t be surprised if this type of control becomes practical for HO Scale one day soon. If you would like more information about R/C systems go to the Internet and look at Crest [www.aristocraft.com], RCS [www.rcs-rc.com], or Keithco’s Locolinc [www.locolinc.com]. So call me a contrarian, but I can’t begin to tell you how satisfying it is to run trains without worrying about electrical contact. There is something very realistic about a train working across the railroad while carrying its fuel on board. u
The battery chargers are hidden below the layout. Sets like these are located at various stations around the layout. 30 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Going Around and Around and Around At the writing of this column, the holi- been around and around and around on “kinder, gentler” tone. Hobo will promote days are behind us. Gone too are the orna- this issue just like a holiday train. This hobo and provide FUN. On his journey he will ments and tinsel and the seasonal layouts of believes that when one boxcar door closes consider all readers to be passionate scale my 3-Rail friends. The Christmas trees and another one opens. I welcome the opportu- modelers regardless of the number of rails decorations have come down and the track nity for change. That is why my modeling is they have on their track. and trains have been “put up” for another in transition. Part of my holiday time was spent 11 months until they are called into service As a hobo in transition, I also note the converting several rolling stock pieces to once again. As I watched all of those holi- other side of the tracks where my O Scale 2-Rail. New wheel sets and scale couplers day trains going around and around and 2-Rail friends reign. It is my observation made a big improvement. I was reminded around I was reminded of Albert Einstein’s that these hobbyists are scholars and crafts- that specific trucks are for specific cars. definition of insanity, “... repeating the same men. Concerned with prototype and model The cars now have a more prototypical behavior again and again and expecting dif- fidelity, they are authorities on all model profile and run great on the scale track. ferent results”. Try as hard as I did, I could railroad topics... or a least they act and think I even lightly weathered them to make not imagine those trains being anything that they are. A lot of 2-Rail guys do have them look even more real. As a Hi-Railer more than just toy trains. One would really layouts, but they are very difficult to see in transition, I have a lot more to do, but have to imagine hard to see them running since they often exist only in their minds. the end result will be that I will enjoy them out on the mainline of a realistic looking For many, their command control center is and have fun. Building, painting, weather- model railroad. The trains would probably located at the user friendly armchair where ing, detailing are all part of the process. like to stretch their legs and go for a good the “Daydream Express” makes frequent Improving what I already have for a more run and burn off some of those old smoke stops. Information is not necessarily shared. scale and realistic look is the direction that pellets... that would surely produce some of A long time ago, 2-Rail rules were estab- I am headed. Stay tuned. More exciting u those old ozone smells! lished such that they were to behave like and FUN ideas are just ahead. Generations have run trains like this. For Middle Age monks in guarding the truths some that is all they know or appreciate about and secrets of the hobby. Most O Scale rail- model trains. One Christmas morning long roaders are really nice guys, “they just don’t ago I, too, got my start with a holiday layout. like to show it”. (You might even see them Each year more and more track and accesso- smile as they read an entertaining column ries were added and the trains seemed to stay such as this.) They consider their modeling up longer and longer. Eventually they stayed to be SERIOUS business. up all year long. And, you know, I am still Their contributions and suggestions to adding track and accessories after more than me are appreciated. I am learning to make 50 years. I am proud of my 3-Rail heritage. friends with some of them. I once observed That is where I got my start with model rail- an O Scale display at a large train show. The roading. That is what has brought me to this proprietor noticed my interest and quipped, point in my search to improve my modeling “These are scale models; these are NOT toy in this enjoyable hobby. trains.” Me thinks the O Scale community As a Hi-Railer in transition I note that just needs to loosen up, relax, and have my 3-Rail friends are the ones who really some FUN. run trains... just for FUN. Whether large After all that is what this hobby is sup- expansive layouts with lots of detail and posed to be about: FUN. When it stops scenery, or huge modular groups of several being fun and enjoyable it is time to take it railroaders, all strive to make their railroads all down and “put it up” for another time look as realistic as possible. These “kinder, and season... or even Ebay. The FUN part gentler” gentlemen of the hobby encourage is that the hobby will continue to grow and everyone to run trains just for the FUN of expand. My transition right now is like a it. They share new ideas and information at lot of other guys and gals who have come
the drop of a spike and are quite willing to to the modeling fork in the road. “We may banta modelworks help answer any questions that may come take the road less traveled by…” but it will up. I owe a lot to my Hi-Rail friends. Their make all the difference and we are going to encouragement over the years has helped have FUN. I am a Hi-Railer in transition, but me grow as a modeler. Hi-Rail model rail- I am also more. I am a Hi-Railer who is also O scale laser cut wood kits, from depots to roading is also about choice. Many Hi-Rail- a hybrid hobbyist. I merge what I learn from or send $7 a for ful color catalogue ers are now considering weathering their both 3-Rail and 2-Rail to get the best of esidences... check us out on the web at ve locos and rolling stock. That is significant. both worlds in my transition to O Scale. r 421 Hopkins Road, Dummerston, VT 05301 My modeling maturity has aged to the Hobo’s column is for tips and techniques ha
point that I have come to realize that the and observations. This is not an edito- www.bantamodelworks.com
center rail no longer has a place in my rial; he leaves that for the O Scale -- ace. we modeling. Looking at it again and again just What Hobo wants is for everyone to learn doesn’t bring different results, and I have new modeling ideas and experiences in a Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 31 AMERICAN "0" SCALE PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Low-cost consignment sales. Purchase and sell quality “0” Scale brass and custom model trains. VISA, MasterCard & Lay-a-ways Accepted. Call for Terms. WE BUY BRASS TRAINS ✰ Estate and collection liquidations ✰ Locating services ✰ Purchases of your new, used & unwanted equipment ✰ Consignment sales ✰ Layout dismantling services ✰ Auction services ✰ Collections Purchased ✰ Cash Paid for new & used trains
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American “0” Scale Professional Services PO Box 575 Waukesha, Wl 53187-0575
32 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Narrow Minded Bobber Gibbs
In Issue #24, I wrote about the new Bachmann On30 two-bay solid so open them up with a drill and files. Surprisingly, the car steel hopper. While I was first examining this model, I wondered now looks just like a hopper with the doors removed. if I might be able to modify it so that a load of coal would empty Create the Plugplate properly through the four discharge chutes. After a few tries, I Start with a piece of 1/32” thick styrene and make a rectangle developed a simple design that has worked extremely well. I am 2-1/16” long and 1-11/16” wide. Eventually, you’ll score this plate now thinking about a similar conversion for my fleet of 24 Weav- at the halfway point on the long side and bend it to match the er standard-gauge hoppers. On my Northway Railroad, I use angle of the center slope sheets, but not yet. Now comes the black aquarium gravel to represent coal. and crushed limestone tedious part as you file and fit until both ends will slide down for ballast. The cars also are used to transport very fine sand that over the main beam of the car and cover the discharge openings I am able to obtain from nearby Wasaga Beach. perfectly. A nibbling tool works perfectly to get close to your Have you ever tried to make O Scale hopper unloading doors lines. Use a coarse file to start and finish with a very fine file. function properly? Even if you are particular enough to make If you experiment with one car, you will learn that there are working hinges and locks, it is almost impossible to reach in to unlock and open a chute door and even more trouble to close and lock it from below and outside the car. With our models, almost any kind of aggregate that you can carry in a hopper, including coal, ore, crushed stone, or sand, will eventually work its way into hinges and locks and create havoc. Tiny particles will inevitably prevent the doors from closing properly. Unload- ing chutes and doors create continuous operating and mainte- nance problems, just like on full-size railroad hoppers. My solution was to completely remove the doors, hinges and locks. I created a “plugplate” assembly to fit over the chute openings from inside the car and a vertical lifting plate that looks like an inverted Y. Quite simply, the load holds the plugplate in position and prevents unloading while in transit. When the lifting plate is raised about half an inch, the load flows smoothly under the plugplate and through the discharge chutes. The plugplate is then lowered into position for the next load. When a hopper is full, the load usually covers the top of the some tricky angles and protrusions in the hopper walls that are lifting plate and it is not noticeable. When the car is empty, the not apparent at first glance but, with some patient filing and fit- lifting plate gives the hopper a character that is quite unique. ting, you can make your plugplate fit properly. With one When you are satisfied with the fit of both ends, score the look at the plate at the halfway point and bend it, but don’t break it off. You photo you can see through the chute openings when the angle is just right. can see how simple this is and you might come up with a better way, but this is how I did it: Open Up the Chutes The discharge doors are lightly glued in place and can be pried off easily, but the chutes behind the doors are Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 33 Attach the Lifting Plate A number of hoppers can be modified for pennies each and you Fashion another piece of styrene into the lifting plate and can always remove the plugplates, glue the doors back on over the glue it into the crack that resulted from scoring the plugplate. Let discharge chutes and return the cars to their original condition. the joint cure and then test it by grabbing the top of the lifting I hope some adventurous readers will try this simple idea and plate with your finger and thumb. I drilled a hole so I could use share your experiences with us on the O Scale Trains Magazine a long shank screwdriver or a crochet hook to lift the assembly. Interactive Forum at: [http://www.oscalemag.com/wordpress/] I found that coarse aquarium gravel works perfectly but that Happy trains to you until we meet again. the very fine sand from our local beach leaks out a bit. Perhaps Bobber Gibbs [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Otrains] other commodities will work better. [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/On30conspiracy] u The plugplate requires only two small pieces of styrene.
THE WESTERN RESERVE “O” SCALE TRAIN SHOW CLEVELAND, OHIO Saturday, November 4, 2006 9:30 am - 2:30 pm Admission: $5.00 6’ Tables - $35.00 LAKELAND COMMUNITY COLLEGE I90 and ST.RT. 306 (S.E. Corner) Held in the Auxiliary Gym / Athletic Center 24 Hr. Police • Public Welcome • Free Parking • 2-rail “O” scale only • Please no other gauges SORRY NO PASSES ACCEPTED AT THIS SHOW • THIS SHOW IS NOT AFFILIATED WITH THE WESTERN RESERVE O SCALE COMMITTEE WHO ANNUALLY PUT ON A SIMILAR SHOW BOB FRIEDEN - 9695 CHILLICOTHE ROAD - KIRTLAND, OHIO 44094 - 440-256-8141 - FAX: 440-256-1749
34 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Growing Up O Scale By Andrew Brusgard III and Bob Lavezzi
The New York Society of like Clark Pool and Ernie Hubner. This led him to become Model Engineers Inc. has a involved in attending, and being graduated from, the Maritime program of junior membership; Institute in New York. He served on eight ships during his years at age sixteen, a person can here. Each have cars named for them on his private train, let- submit an application. We’ve had some interesting people who tered for his Port Morris and Harlem railroad, with the diner were junior members of our Society. We know, because we’re named after the ship that served the best food. two of them. O Scale has always been a part of my life. My earliest mem- Mort Mann, of Sunset Models, became a junior member in ory of model railroading is of an Atlas O Scale train set, which 1943. His first introduction to O Scale was at the 1939 World’s ran around the floor of our living room when I was a toddler. Fair, at the transportation pavilion. Ed Alexander, and others, My interest in the hobby grew as my father, Andrew Brusgard, had a huge O Scale working layout there. Mort’s uncle had a Jr., took me (as a little boy) to the New York Society of Model great job during the Depression, which allowed him to give Engineers, where he was a member. Soon I became a regular at Mort a Lionel train set each Christmas, whetting his interest in the club and, during our expositions, was even allowed to help the hobby. out. I was given the task of “gophering”, re-railing trains, pushing While Mort was a junior member, World War II was raging. stalls, and getting soda for the operators. But, I had my eyes on The Society was suffering from a manpower shortage. He loved operation. the fact that he could duck under the layout and pop up in the At home, my father encouraged my interest in the hobby access holes, surrounded by this huge model railroad. Learning by assisting me in building my first model, a Mainline double to operate this massive layout was no easy chore. There were sheathed boxcar, when I was 11. He also began to show me dispatching boards, tower boards, and engineers’ boards to how to operate the upper yard of the NYSME’s layout. I began to master. He learned wiring, track-laying, and maintenance of the practice there, preparing for the day when I would be allowed large banks of relays that controlled the CTC (Centralized Traffic to run the mainline panel. During the shows I watched as other Control) system. Mort also learned how to operate the large lay- members operated the railroad, and learned what switches to out, utilizing the massive interlocking. throw and what throttles to turn. One member, Marvin Nich- Icken, Alexander, and Fischer were building the equipment olson, a NJ Transit tower operator, took an interest in me and that he was running, models that are still highly prized in O showed me the ins and outs of the mainline panel. He showed Scale. His mentors at the club were an engineer on the New me where the power blocks were, and even showed me some York Central, and (Guess what!) one on the Pennsy. No won- of the tricks of operating “wrong-rail”. Marvin also allowed me der there is such a diversity in the equipment Sunset produces to run the upper yard during the shows, he and I interchanging today. trains between the yard and the mainline. Thanks to his help, by During his membership, the Society was located in Manhat- the time I was 14 I was an operator on the mainline panel dur- tan, in the Knickerbocker Building on the corner of 42nd and ing the club’s exhibitions. Broadway. Our model railroad was in the basement, set up in During the months when the Society was working on the the shape of an “L”. Then came the words every model railroad layouts, I learned the basics of model railroading. Spiking track, hates, “We have to move.” Mort was there for the dismantling laying ballast, soldering wires, and laying switches were all and moving of the layout to 35th Street, across from the Empire part of my education. Outside of the club, I was building as State Building. One memory he has of this location is the time a many kits as I could find, from Atlas, Intermountain, Mainline, B-25 struck the Empire State Building, while he was in the base- Weaver, and Walthers. Many members of the Society gave me ment across the street, running the layout. positive feedback as I continued to bring in my projects from After the war, the Society moved to Hoboken Station in New home. I also worked with another member, Bob Lavezzi, who Jersey. At this point, in part due to the long commute, Mort built home layouts. He taught me how to build benchwork, use resigned his membership. Oh yes, he had also discovered girls, homasote as a roadbed, and how to wire a railroad. By the time leaving him less time to spend with trains. I became a junior member at 16, I had learned enough to build Another junior member is Robert Wagner. He studied my first brass steam engine, having been around the New York industrial arts at Columbia University in Manhattan, and his Society for over ten years. During college, my interest in trains professors said there was nothing that they could teach him. He did not wane. I returned to the club to run the layout during the worked for Standard Oil as an industrial artist and model build- holiday and spring shows. er. As a teen, in the late 20s, he wrote over 350 letters to com- Today, at 25, I am a full member of the Society, and even panies that owned billboard reefers, so popular in those days, serve on the Board of Directors. I now find myself to be a mem- collecting data on these cars. He measured, photographed, and ber to whom others turn for help and advice, as well as teaching hand-built prototypes of these special styles spanning 60 years. others the skills I have learned from the members who took an Wagner built 43 of these cars, his last in 1990. His collection is interest in me when I was younger. When people my age ask unequaled. AtlasO is now producing these cars as a tribute to me why I’m interested in model trains, I have to remember those his model building, his diligent research, and his appreciation of people who encouraged my pursuits when I was younger. I detail and accuracy. encourage model railroaders everywhere to take notice of young James Moran became a junior member in 1949, when the people who have a fascination with trains. It might develop into Society was still located in Hoboken Station. Jim was basically a life-long passion with just a little of your time invested. u involved in track-laying and switchwork, learning from people Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 35
Traction Action
Roger C. Parker
Decatur, Illinois, 1914, on the Illinois Terminal Street Station covered most of a city block. Trains entered a door- An ideal focal point for home layouts and display modules way located in the back of the building, and departed from the One of the reasons I love railroad books so much is that they front of the building which had been opened up to provide access lead to wonderful modeling opportunities that you might, other- to several tracks. wise, never discover. The Wood Street Station contained a single curving through For example, one of the finest traction books to appear last track, next to a waiting room and concrete platform, plus three year was Dale Jenkin’s Illinois Terminal: The Route of Friendly additional stub tracks, one of which contained an inspection pit. Service. From the perspective of content and White River Pro- An additional stub siding along the side of the building also had duction’s excellent design and layout, this is one of the most thor- an inspection pit. oughly satisfying traction books I’ve ever encountered. (Read my Aesthetically, there’s a lot to like about the Wood Street Sta- review on the O Scale Trains blog.*) tion. For one thing, when viewed from the front, or “train shed” From Dale’s book, I discovered the Flyer Newsletter, The opening, the through track made a gentle S-curve through the sta- Magazine of Illinois Terminal Railroad History which represents an tion. This curve, of course, plays to the strength of the short-radius equally important resource. The Spring, 2005 issue, (Volume 19, trackage characteristic of traction lines. Number 1) of The Flyer, in fact, contained an excellent station that More important to creating an authentic atmosphere, the could be the nucleus of any home layout or traveling module. On Wood Street Station was not particularly “beautiful.” It projects a Page 10 of that issue, there was a trackplan of the Wood Street very utilitarian approach to business, in keeping with the limita- Station, followed by several photographs of the building’s 1914- tions of most traction lines. Recycled from a factory, with the era conversion from a factory to a through-type railroad station. front opened up, the station is thoroughly pragmatic. It’s large Traction, Stations, and Model Railroads enough to be a layout centerpiece, but not so large that it will Stations play a major role in most of our layouts. Stations not never be completed. only provide logical beginning and ending points for our runs, but Looking inside the trainshed at the four inside tracks and stations also provide a logical place to display our favorite mod- platform, though, and The Flyer’s views of the station’s utilitarian els, even if they’re not currently being used. Stations also tell a lot graphics and signage, you really get a feel for era. This station about the communities they were located in, and the financial would definitely create the focal point of a layout or module, health of the railroads that built them. allowing three, possibly four, trains to be stored, while other trains Through-type stations like Decatur’s Wood Street Station are snake their way through the building and exit through the front. especially appropriate for traction layouts, since no backing-up Properly illuminated, a model of the station would create a defi- or pole reversal is needed as trains arrive or depart. The Wood nite show-stopping scene for a layout.
38 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Adaptations Several modifications were made in adapting the station’s layout to accommodate present and future layouts. In particular, in place of the Illinois Terminal’s single direction of inbound and Traction Action outbound trains access to the station, Carey Hinch and I decided to offer four alternative routes in and out of the station. This com- plicated the trackwork, but offers far more flexibility in setting up the station in future homes or temporary displays. Although we tried to fit the station on a standard 4’ x 8’ ply- Roger C. Parker wood platform, in order to accommodate the added track work, the module comes in at 6’ x 10’. Part of the width, however, is for the block of buildings along East Wood Street, which could, if necessary, be eliminated. What’s nice about the block of build- ings along the top of the drawing, of course, is that it creates an “alley” for trolleys to pass through, adding depth when viewing the module from the bottom, left, or right sides. An Invitation Since it’s basically a one-story station on a flat landscape, the IT’s Wood Street Station in Decatur creates an ambitious, but not daunting, construction project. If any reader decides to attempt it, I hope they will provide “in progress” construction photographs and updates, as this could make a truly fine article series for O Scale Trains! u Resources Illinois Terminal: The Route of Friendly Service *Review: http://www.oscalemag.com/wordpress/index. php?s=illinois+terminal Order: http://illinoistractionsociety.org/Books/Jenkins/ JenkinsPromo.html The Flyer, Illinois Traction Society http://illinoistractionsociety.org/Home.html
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Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 39 Track as Scenery Michael L. Cougill Observations 3 When you think of track, what comes to mind? Perhaps a pristine, glass-smooth mainline, a meandering branch or sec- ondary, or a complex junction? With our individual modeling preferences, everyone has a different image. Most modelers wouldn’t think of starting a car or structure project without adequate research of the prototype involved, yet will routinely plop down some flextrack or a #6 turnout just to get something running. Modeling prototypically accurate trackwork is a special interest of mine. Using Proto48 standards is a natural progres- sion towards that goal. My Indiana & Whitewater depicts an industrial switching dis- trict serving a variety of customers. I want the track to help tell and scenery materials. the story of this freelanced railroad, therefore I’m giving care- I start things off with some 3/16” square basswood ties glued ful attention to its appearance. I handlay my track using Code to the roadbed and sanded flat. At this point, most people 125 and 100 rail on basswood ties, Right-O-Way tieplates, joint would stain the ties and then lay rail. However, I scrape the ties bars and other details. My track has a rusty brown base color to with a razor saw to impart some wood grain texture. How far which I add various weathering effects. you carry this step depends on how rough and deteriorated you want the finished track to look. For this demonstration, I’m rep- 1 resenting a branchline with light rail and deferred maintenance (Photos 2 and 3). Color Once the ties are textured, apply a coat of the Minwax Gold- en Oak stain. You can use a brush or a paper towel, as I’ve done here. Simply wipe this on as it comes from the can. If it looks too dark, you can rub it in with a paper towel. While the stain is still wet, I brush a coat of Floquil Rail Brown onto randomly selected ties. I don’t use the paint full strength; I simply shake the bottle until it’s partially mixed. What you want is a wash coat that will let the Minwax stain show through (Photos 4 and 5). 4
Photo 1 shows the materials used to create the weathering effects outlined in this article. You’ll need a razor saw and utility knife blade, some Minwax Golden Oak wood stain, and acrylic craft paints in various shades of gray and brown, pastel chalks in brown, gray and rust colors (both available from Wal-Mart or art/craft supply stores). Also needed are some Rail Brown and Grimy Black Floquil paint, and your favorite brands of ballast 2 5
40 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 6 9
Prototype track has that dry, gritty, yet oily texture that is hard to 7 describe. Areas around switches and engine terminals have that mixture of Diesel fuel, oil and dirt known as crud. There is also mud that forms around rails and ties near grade crossings and in poorly ballasted areas. This texture is one more layer to consider if you really want to model track in all its glory. Once the rail is spiked in place, I give it and the tieplates a coat of full strength Rail Brown (Photo 10). Here’s where the fun 10
8 To further age some ties, drybrush on some gray acrylic craft paint and rub it into the wood grain. Again, you just want a thin coating that highlights the texture and wood grain. If the craft paint is applied too heavily, a water-soaked begins. While the Rail Brown is still wet, take the pastel stick brush or towel will tone (I’m using a light brown color) and scrape it with a utility knife it down (Photos 6 and 7). blade so that the dust falls onto the wet rails (Photo 11). Yes, it’s Photo 8 shows the fin- messy. You can use a soft brush to work the chalk dust into the ished ties ready for rail. track. You have to go easy near switches, however, and take What I wanted were ties that have an overall color tone with subtle varia- 11 tions in color between individual ties. The wood grain effects show up nicely now. Texture Finally, we can lay some rail. There’s nothing new here, just standard techniques that have been covered before. Since this is going to be a branchline, I’ve used Code 100 rail and Right-O- Way details (Photo 9). Along with proper attention to color and texture, adding extra details (such as joint bars, rail braces, and nut-and-bolt details) lifts model track out of the ordinary. They are nice to see, especially in foreground areas. The principle to keep in mind is to give the eye something to linger over in a scene before moving on to the next one. This creates the illusion that the layout is much larger than it really is. Since my layout is care not to foul up the movement of the points. The chalk gives small in size (an L-shape, 10’ x 24’) and about 57 inches off the the track a nice aged dry texture that paint, alone, never will floor, I use such details throughout. (Photo 12). Notice that, even unballasted, the track has weight Another element often missing from model track is texture. and mass. Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 41 12 15
I like to use a dark color of chalk, such as black or burnt umber, mixed with Grimy Black or Rail Brown to represent oil last (I’m holding the spray bottle much closer than normal for soaked dirt. Using burnt sienna (rust) chalk along the sides of the camera.) Once things are slightly misted, really soak the the rails gives a nice textured gritty effect that’s hard to achieve ballast to be certain it is completely wet. The alcohol acts as a with just paint alone. Colors that match the base color of your wetting agent, and allows the diluted glue and water mixture to modeled terrain can be sprinkled along the outer edges of ties soak right in. I just use regular Elmer’s White Glue, thinned fifty- and ballast, and blended in with a soft brush. As with any type fifty with water plus a little dish soap (Photo 16). of fine dust, there may be some health concerns for those with allergies or other respiratory sensitivities. Common sense might 16 dictate the use of a dust mask. Even though the amounts may be small, use good judgment. Ballasting begins with a layer of ordinary sawdust along the edges of the roadbed. This is unsifted, although I do pick out any wood chips or splinters. The sawdust acts as filler to save on the use of the more expensive commercial ballast material (Photo 13). Woodland Scenics’ cinder material is poured on and 13
While this layer is still wet, I sprinkle on some groundcover materials to cover the remaining sawdust (Photo 17). You could 17 worked around the ties using a soft brush or your fingers. Be sure and get it off the sides of the rails and off the spikeheads (Photo 14). 14
also do this before wetting everything down. Layer on as much or as little as you want, and ensure that it is well saturated with the white glue mixture. This soggy mess will take forever to dry (certainly overnight, if not longer), especially if it is fairly thick. Finally, here’s the end result of all our labors (Photo 18). No To bond the loose ballast materials in place, spray some iso- doubt about it, the light rail, encroaching weeds, deteriorating propyl alcohol from a spray bottle (Photo 15). Go lightly with ties, sparse ballast and low rail joints will keep speeds down on the spray at first, so you don’t disturb the placement of the bal- this branch. At this point, you can add some weeds and taller
42 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 18
vegetation along with as much detailing as you want. Photos 19 and 20 show another section of track I built, using these same techniques, with Code 125 rail. Here I added some taller weeds 19
20
made from Sisal twine and a pile of rusty tieplates. I also tried a different way to fill in the ballast shoulders, using some blue foam insulation. You could also just cut a bevel on each side of the roadbed material. Next time you are near the tracks, make some observations and take notes. Ask yourself what stands out about this stretch of track? What color are the ties and rail? How about the ballast? How do they relate to each other? How’s the alignment? Is it smooth and flowing or crooked and unkempt? Deliberate analy- sis like this is one key to better modeling in general. These types of questions are designed to focus your powers of observation, helping you break from stereotypical thinking (Not all track is a uniform rail brown.) This type of focus isn’t hard to learn and, after a while, becomes second nature. Although my track is han- dlaid, these weathering techniques will work wonders on com- mercial flex track too. u Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 43 ROT: Handles the transformer in the article and the Lionel 180 Watt PowerHouse Hey, Mister Editor, I’ve got a tip you can publish without paying (both of which will produce the same power output of 10 amps) me thousands in royalties. Go ahead—use it as my guest. Here’s add in a 8 Amp push button breaker. When you draw over 8 amps the deal: Making and Painting Small Parts... put a handle on it! Lots of power this will trip and not automatically reset till you push the easier to form and fashion little pieces using big hands IF you make button to reset. This ensures that you do not have any huge power or paint a piece on something like a stick. This could be an un- spikes and are not over using your power supply. It also ensures trimmed piece of styrene which is part of the piece you’re making you clear the short before physically resetting it. I recently did not or painting. When you’re all done working the piece, simply trim notice a derailed train and burnt out the transformer auto reset off the extended section and do any touch-up as needed. Example: breaker that kept trying to reset while the train was derailed. A sim- When I scoured the box containing my baggage car kit, I couldn’t ple additional push button breaker added to the transformer would find the eighth roof vent no matter how many times I turned the have prevented this problem! box over. So I duplicated one on a “stick” of 3/16” square styrene. Gordon Hall When I got done adding and gluing pieces and filing some radii, I just cut off the piece and filed the end square. When I had to Shorts–Electrical–Not Underwear make those tiny curved strips at the ends of the clerestory roof, I After reading Bob Turner’s umpteenth complaint about problems only filed the inside radius of 3/4”, glued it on, and when the glue with steam engine brake shoes shorting on drivers I am compelled was dry, I sanded it to the roof contour. It was easier to handle this to reply since I have applied an easy, fool-proof fix to all 26 of my piece of 1/16” basswood instead of trying to make four tiny pieces. C&O steamers. Separate the metal brake shoe hanger from the There are lots of pieces that are easier to make if you leave a handle chassis with an insulating washer and mount the hanger with a on them until you’re ready to make the final cut. The same goes for nylon screw (needed on the left side only). Washers can be pur- multiple pieces of, let’s say, side pieces for caboose steps. Make chased or easily made by drilling a clearance hole for the screw in ’em all on one piece of stock and plan to leave a place to make the 0.010” or 0.015” styrene and using a paper punch to create a wash- final cuts into little separate pieces. er. Small diameter punches are available at office supply stores. It’s Okay, it’s all yours. You can beat the hell out of it or we’ll split much easier to drill the hole before punching out the washer! the fame and fortune. It’s probably not a new idea—but obvious. On metal cars with non-insulated body bolsters, insulate the I’ve been doing stuff like this for a long time. It’s an old patternmak- Kadee metal coupler box from the metal car (I use black photo er’s trick! album paper) and mount the box with nylon screws. Nylon screws Phil Opielowski, Mass. in all common American threads that we use are available from North West Short Line. These screws are remarkably tough; I have Vinegar Car Info never had one break and I run long trains on 3% grades. If you’re Regarding the vinegar tank car in OST #22, there is a similar paranoid about plastic screws use four in each box. car at the Strasburg, Va., railroad station and museum. The car is I agree with Bob that equipment must be “tuned” to the rail- painted silver with black lettering. The reporting marks are NFPX road. I don’t pick up my equipment unless it is absolutely neces- (National Fruit Products Co., Inc., Winchester, Va.) There were sary because when engines are picked up they get nervous and it 22 such cars with a capacity of 8170 gallons and a max weight of takes them a while to settle down. This principle also explains why 100,000 lbs. The Official Railway Equipment Register from Jan of glitches only occur when visitors are present. When electrons see 1943 shows five cars in service. The ORER from 1950 lists three strangers in the room they get nervous and start acting up. and the ORER from 1960 lists only two. The car at the museum is Jim EuDaly, Kansas City, Mo. in need of much TLC. John Peterson, Va. Sacramento Northern Info The article by Roger C. Parker on the Sacramento Northern Cheaper Power Railway (OST #23) was really good. Another source of model cars I note on page 53 the article for building a power supply for for this railway was Ken Kidder who offered the classic 1000 series command equipment! I thought it might be of interest to note to Holman combine many years ago. Although a wood car, they had your readers, for less then the cost of the listed materials you can steel underframes. You will occasionally see one of the Kidder purchase a Lionel 180-Watt PowerHouse™ power supply, 18 models for sale on eBay. volts AC 10 amps, which would be safer and cheaper than build- The prototype car #1005, the only one saved, “lives” at the ing something that will do the exact same thing as per the article! Western Railway Museum in Rio Vista, Calif., along with a control Trainworld and others have them for reduced prices and, instead trailer made by Hall-Scott, MOW #302. Another item to see at Rio of waiting a month for ordering the transformer in the article to Vista is Sacramento Northern Birney #62, ex-San Diego Railway, build up, you can order from most train shops and have the Lio- which last ran in Yuba City to Marysville service. nel transformer within a week! You also might consider that most Happy Holidays, Roger Jenkins, Calif. model train manufactures do not recommend or warrant the use of their model train products with home built transformers! Some- Smaller Is Better thing to consider if you will be running a fleet of delicate electronic By the way, another great issue—your editorial asking for small equipped engines! engines really hits the spot since the biggest steam that I can run is The Lionel 180 Watt PowerHouse comes with an automatic my Sierra RR 2-8-0 and that has the middle drivers blinded. I’d also circuit breaker but personally I prefer when using this much power, like to see these as reasonably priced out, but that’s a whole other to add in an extra breaker with any power supply at less then the issue itself. maximum output power rating for extra safety. In other words, for Years ago you could get a “generic” drive of lengthy list of vari-
44 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 ous wheel arrangements from Locomotive Workshop and build Bottom line. I would never, I repeat, never recommend wrap- up from there, but there does not seem to be any replacement for ping a painted locomotive, tender, passenger car, etc. in plastic these. I find the mechanism to be the most challenging aspect. wrap. It’s just not worth the risk. I always use the bags that my Martin Brechbiel, Va. newspaper is delivered in. They have a greasy feel to them and of course I’ve never since have had a problem. Therefore, I would like you to either print my story of woe or print some sort of a retraction Saran Wrap Adventures or qualification, for instance stating that only unpainted items could I am new to O Scale and a recent subscriber, having been in HO be wrapped in the stuff. for 50 years. I was also a dealer in HO brass steam locomotives. In Stan Schwartz the past I had accounts with Sunset (at their inception), Key (at their Brian replies: Good catch, Stan. I actually had that happen once inception), Westside, NJ Custom Brass, Soho, Lambert, PFM and myself, back when I was custom painting. The issue was that the Hallmark. I would venture to say that over 1,000 locomotives have Dullcoat was fresh, and the outgassed solvents dissolved a thin layer passed through my hands over the years. of plastic. I was able to save the paint by re-shooting Glosscote first, I would like to relate a story to you. We were getting new car- then re-dulling. peting many years ago and I had approximately 50 locomotives dis- I should have mentioned that I never wrap any solvent-painted played in a wall unit which had to be moved, therefore I had to box item that isn’t completely, thoroughly cured in any plastic. Any up about 20 or 30 painted engines. As luck would have it about ten remaining solvents can certainly have a bad effect on plastic bags, of them were missing the plastic in the original boxes. So I decided wrap, or box foam. If you can smell any trace whiff of paint, it ain’t to wrap them in Reynolds “Extra Cling” Plastic wrap. The box even cured. Unbaked clearcoats can take months to cure in air, by the pronounced its hobby use. way. The locomotives remained boxed for several weeks until I could Though I’ve never had an issue since, read over Stan’s experi- once again return them to the wall unit. Upon opening the boxes ence and make your own decisions. Any other thoughts? u I was horrified to learn that the plastic wrap had pulled off the Dullcote topcoat on seven units. They looked like zebra stripes. In trying to save the paint jobs, I tried everything. Respraying the Dull- cote didn’t work as the stripes still showed. I tried feathering the Errata #24 edges, so to speak, by hand rubbing with, first Bon Ami (lightly) and Regarding the photos from the 2005 Indy O Scale Meet: The then a paste of talcum powder and oil. Nothing worked. The paint open-air car shop (page 60) was built by Johnnie Reid. The steam jobs were ruined. dummy (page 61) was built by Andy Sunderland. Our thanks to I then contacted Reynolds since I felt it was their fault. Remem- Andy for providing us with the correct info. ber the box said for “hobby use”. They sent an insurance adjuster The last two photos on page 20 are from Mike Culham’s current who asked if $1,000 would cover the damage. At that time paint layout being discussed in multi-parts. We said they were from his jobs in HO were running about $150 per, so I settled for the old layout. u $1,000.
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 45 46 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Modern Utilities Welcome everyone. It’s great to be back writing again, after taking off for an issue. Let’s jump right in to some modeling details that can help bring your layout into more modern years. Aside from obvious details, like recent makes of automobiles scattered about the layout, I would like to point out a few “everyday” things that may not be too obvious. In the real world, when you get in your car and drive, do you see power lines? Not the big yellow stripe in the middle of the shield and topping off the gas tank while supports. Typically, very high output light- road. Do you see any power poles? Today the customer sat comfortably inside the car. ing is used to bring daylight to the night. A the power wires share a pole with telephone Two towering gas pumps were all the station great starting point for the store would be the wires and cable services. How many lines needed. Oh, and gas was 5¢ a gallon. Walthers [www.walthers.com] Cornerstone are there on a pole? Some poles may have In 2006, a modern “filling station” could Gas Station. Scratchbuild the pumps from numerous lines and some may have just one. have as few as two and as many as twelve Styrene. Illustration 2 shows how simple There is a line you won’t see in all that hang- islands to fuel cars from both sides. Use they are, flat with not too many curves. Add ing mess, fiber optic cable. Fiber optic is a any model you want for the building, but a a new awning overhead and the Walther’s medium for high-speed light-transmission sleek, square, well-lit structure would be the model is a nice representation of a “modern” of data. Your model locomotives use it (sort most modern. The area to really focus on convenience store. of) to get the LED light to the front lens and would be the gas pump. The pumps of today For the next “Modern Image” we’ll take a number boards. The real fiber optic stuff is are compact rectangle structures housing look at some modern paperwork. Railroads a polymer glass tube used for digital phone the three grades of gas (regular, super, and have added new operating forms and pro- communications and high-speed Internet supreme) on both sides. Place them beneath cedures to combat crew errors out on the access. It’s becoming the installation stan- a very well lit and covered area. The cover rails. These new rules promise to add a new dard for new construction. should resemble prefab metal with steel dimension to your operating sessions. u Fiber optic lines are run underground, and surface at intervals inside junction boxes. These boxes contain the hardware to convert the light pulses to digital signals and send them to your house. The real subject to model here is the box outside the home or business, like Illustration 1. A simple model made of Styrene or balsa that resembles the box in the photo is all you need. These boxes are typically painted an earth color in an attempt to blend them with the surround- ings. A pine green color, and sometimes a bare aluminum color, are the most preva- lent in my area. Now you can forget about tasking yourself with telephone wires on poles. You might also want to forget about 1 the power lines as well. Many newly con- structed neighborhoods are being built with underground utilities, so pull up those tele- phone poles, fill in the holes with spackle, and place some of these boxes across your model landscape. I admit it’s easier said than done. The telephone pole is an everyday icon we tend to look straight through. Take it away and you might feel like the scene is incomplete. Do you want a modern scene on a rural road or something for the corner of your business district? Put in a filling station (A what? Oh, I mean a gas station.) Actually I mean a convenience store. To be modern, don’t model a gas station. Those haven’t existed for some time now, and the old fill- ing station disappeared in the 1960s. The modern convenience store put an end to “full-service”, and gone are the “self-service” signs. I admit I never knew the Texaco Star Service, offered in the 1950s, where three to 2 five men would rush to each car checking oil, filling wiper fluid, cleaning the wind- Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 47 1-877-531-5275 TOLL FREE New! [email protected] P.O. Box 3337 FREIGHT MOTORS Spring Hill, FL 34611 Take an 0n30 4 wheel trolley, one night, and our laser cut kit... Your DCC, Sound and Signalling Specialist and there you have it! 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48 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 Quench Your Loco’s Thirst or Tanks For The Memories C. Victor Robart
Nothing is more important to a steam locomotive’s operation than an abundant and readily available supply of water. Conse- quently, every steam-era model railroad needs to be outfitted with a number of water tanks. My first reaction to this need, as I made the conversion from narrow- to standard-gauge a few years back, was evasion. Via a consignment dealer, I acquired a 60,000 gallon steel tank that was imported several years back by Precision Scale. A home for this beautiful brass model was created on my layout in the divi- sion point yard at Skagit. I thought this tank looked pretty good. Sadly, I heard essentially the same comment from nearly every knowledgeable model railroader who visited, “What are you doing with that UP prototype water tank on your railroad?” At some point I grew tired of hearing this comment and decided it was time to strike out on my own. Engineering Standards for the Cascade Northern Since I knew that this would be the first of several water tanks that I would need to build, I decided that the design should be based on at least a loose set of engineering standards. Mainly, I wanted my tanks to have a family appearance. This approach is consistent with what the prototype railroads did. My approach to the assembly of the base was to completely They worked hard to standardize the design of their support build up one axis, including all the 3” x 12” cross-bracing. Once facilities. Their primary goal was to save money. Mine was to this was done, I threaded the perpendicular members through achieve visual consistency and identify a process for turning and completed the other axis. This sounds simple enough to out a number of structures that would look both believable and say, but takes a while to accomplish in practice. Next I applied related, all without being unduly complicated to construct. Grandt Line nut-bolt-washer (NBW) castings wherever a cross Since the Cascade Northern maintains friendly relations with brace met a vertical beam. its neighbor to the south, the Great Northern, their engineering Before moving on, let me say a few words about how I fin- department’s design records were consulted in search of inspira- ished all the wood parts prior to assembly. Color photos of the tion. In the Great Northern Railway Historical Society’s Refer- prototype that I consulted suggest that the support structures of ence Sheet Number 239, from March 1996, I found a nifty plan water tanks were generally left unfinished and, therefore, weath- for a 50,000 gallon wooden tank. Plans were provided, showing ered naturally. Even if a preservative was applied, by the time it sitting on top of both 20’ and 30’ tall towers. I decided this most railfan photos were taken the supports had a well-aged was the tank for me, and set about building it. Here’s how I look. This was duplicated as follows. First I dragged a razor saw approached the project. over each beam and cross support in order to add some defini- In considering the construction of water tanks, I saw them tion to the wood grain. Then I liberally applied Builders In Scale consisting of three basic components, the support structure, the Silver Wood Stain. An application of India ink diluted in dena- tank itself, and the roof. Each model would require all three ele- tured rubbing alcohol will also achieve this look. ments. To test my approach I actually built two models of essen- Concrete footings were constructed by gluing together two tially the same tank, each one sitting on a different height base. strips of Evergreen styrene, each 1/8” thick and 5/8” wide. This The first tank sits on a 30’ tall base. Engines will be serviced via strip was then cut into 5/8” squares. Each square was then filed a trackside hydrant. The second is a lineside structure with a 20’ to form a truncated pyramid with a top that measured one scale tall base and a spout. foot square. The 12 that each tower requires were all painted Support Structure with Floquil’s Concrete color. The vertical support members, for both of my tanks, were cut GN’s plans show the horizontal supports for the tank body, at from scale 12” square stripwood. On the tall tank, there are four the top of the tower, to be built from I-beams. None were handy of these uprights, surrounding the frost box, which stand verti- at the point in time when I reached this phase of the project, so cally. Eight more are located further out, toed in slightly from I simply substituted 4” x 12” and 6” x 12” timbers. As I started their base. On the shorter tank base, every support is vertical. I on the second layer of this support, a bag of six-inch Northeast- built a jig for each tank to ensure that all these vertical members ern Scale Models I-beams turned up, so I put them to use. I cut would be in proper alignment and correctly spaced. The jig was a floor for the tank itself from Northeastern scribed siding and also an aid in accurately sanding the angle at the top and bot- glued the I-beams to it. To get the correct length for each beam tom of the leaning supports on the tall tank. and their spacing, I prepared a scale drawing and used it as a
Mar/Apr ’06 - O Scale Trains • 49 guide. The boards that make up the floor of the tank are a scale tube (Photo 2). This sheathing had been scraped and stained as six inches apart. described previously. In addition, a coat of Boxcar Red (treated All that remained at this point, to finish the base, was to build with a dab of black, of white, then diluted with thinner) was the frost box. This was made from scribed siding material with wiped on. All painting and staining was done in advance of 90-degree angle pieces applied at the corners. A Grandt Line application so as to get a variety of hues on the tank side. door was installed near the base. Bands on the tank were made from nylon fishing line. A Tank number of pieces, of sufficient length to go completely around Builders of wooden tanks have a major asset available to the tank, were cut. Each piece included several inches of extra them, the mailing tube (Photo 1). Every time I passed a trash length. All were spray painted Grimy Black. I put several slits in each side of a sheet of foamcore artist’s board, stretched the line across between them, and fired away with the spraycan. By the way, I discovered that the trashcan in the graphics division at work was a great place to find sheets of discarded foamcore. My wife, already coping with the growing inventory of mailing tubes, just rolled her eyes whenever I arrived home from work with yet another batch of model making treasures. The GN tank has 13 bands. The question at hand was how to install them so they would be approximately parallel. Here’s what I did. The precision height gage in my metalworking shop was dusted off and set up on the workbench. Its measuring head was set at the same height as the bottom band of the tank. I then slowly rotated the tank and let the tip of the measuring head score a line around the tank. Repeated 13 times, I had a set of slight grooves into which the fishing line could slip. On each side of 26 vertical sideboards, I drilled two holes of sufficient diameter to accept the fishing line. Their place- ment was determined from the GN drawings. The line was fed 1 into one hole and then knotted so that it could be pulled tight and not slip out. A large drop of CA cement was applied and allowed to dry. This line was then wrapped tightly around the receptacle at work and noticed a stout mailing tube being dis- tank and fed back into the hole adjacent to the one where it carded, I hauled it out and took it home with me. Over time, I had originated. While holding the line taut, I applied a liberal accumulated quite a variety of tube, err... tank diameters, put- amount of CA. I continued to hold the line taut until the glue ting my sainted wife’s patience to the test as I hauled a newly took hold. For the fasteners, I selected a Grandt Line product. found treasure into the house. These fasteners completely covered nearly three of the vertical There is one very important thing to remember if you plan to boards and hid the entry and exit point for the fishing line. use a mailing tube as the understructure of a tank. Let the diam- Roof eter of the mailing tube dictate the size of the top of the tank With the tank complete, I moved on to the roof. Somewhere support structure, rather than the plans you are following. For between geometry, trigonometry, and mechanical drawing, I’m example, the GN structure, serving as the basis for my model, sure I once learned how to draw a circle, cut a slice out of it and has a tank measuring 24’ in diameter. The closest mailing tube then join the sliced edges to produce a cone of a desired height diameter I could find in my inventory was 25’, which was close and diameter. Alas, I now can’t remember how, so I just experi- enough for my purposes. As a result, the size of my support base was adjusted slightly to accommodate the extra 12” my mailing tube’s diameter dictated. I applied 1” x 6” stripwood to the exterior of the mailing
2 3
50 • O Scale Trains - Mar/Apr ’06 mented. With apologies to all the teachers who labored with me in vain, on my second attempt I had a winner (Photo 3). For material to build the cone, I selected a sheet of the cardboard that the laundry uses as a stiffener when I order my shirts to be returned folded. This had enough flexibility to fold easily but, once folded, maintained its structural integrity. To be on the safe side, however, I did construct a wooden inner frame to guaran- tee sturdiness (Photo 4).
4
Roofing material was then applied to the finished cone. Wood shingles were selected for my tower, although tarpaper would be an equally appropriate choice. A tarpaper roof has the advantage that it doesn’t require anywhere near the extent of anal-compulsiveness that goes hand-in-hand with the applica- tion of individual wood shingles. If you elect to do shingles, remember that they must become increasingly tapered as you reach the top of the tank. To keep item is available. I just followed the GN drawings and scaled them straight on my roof, I used a compass to scribe equally things to fit the Grandt Line casting. spaced lines around the cone. This was accomplished by put- Someday I’ll get around to building a pump house for each ting the point at the peak of the roof and scribing lines of the of these towers. For the moment my tanks are dry, That’s okay, I correct diameter. Knowing that I would want a roof hatch on my guess, mainly because I haven’t gotten the new house (where the tank, I framed one from 1” x 3” material and butted my shingles new Cascade Northern will be located) under construction yet. u up against it. My shingles were cut from my favorite material, cedar cigar wrappers. I steam and press them to achieve a flat sheet, then cut each shingle individually. Absent access to this material, Builders in Scale offers an excellent substitute product. To my wood shingles, I applied a coat of the previously mentioned Builders in Scale wood stain. This caused them to assume a handsome gray color. I’m still looking for a finial that will appeal to me. Someday I’ll be at a swap meet and find just the one I want. At the moment, even the most severe of my crit- ics hasn’t yet mentioned that my tank is without one. Details And Finishing Touches Ladders add interest to structures, so I decided my tower should have one. Personally I’m pretty confident that OSHA would take a dim view of my ladder but, for me, it adds the lacy visual interest I was seeking. My technique for building ladders is to lay piece of stripwood down on the workbench that is the same width as the ladder itself, minus its side rails. On each side, I place a scale 2x4 and hold it in place with a toolmaker’s angle plate. Then, 1”x 3” rungs are then glued in place. The tank height obviously determines the ladder length. My roof hatch is nothing more than a piece of scribed wood with a frame glued to it. It fits the box I installed prior to apply- ing the shingles. Building the spout for the lineside tank was a relatively simple task, because a Grandt Line casting set for this
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