GROUND FLOOR AND INNER COURTYARD
Figure 28. View of the main entrance at ground floor level. The oak doors as Figure 29. Electricity switch room on ground floor. Figure 30. Vacant spaces at first floor. well as the transom appear original.
Figure 31. First floor spaces showing some of the windows removed and Figure 32. Corridor space at first Figure 33. View of the doorway and Figure 34. View of modern double boarded up. floor. modern architrave from ground doors providing access to the floor main entrance hallway to the stairs to upper floors. electricity switch room.
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FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD FLOOR
Figure 35. Landing at first floor level. Figure 36. Second floor: original partition walls have been removed and the Figure 37. First floor: south-east elevation space remains empty and unoccupied.
Figure 38. View of one of the surviving crittall windows at second floor level. Figure 39. Poor condition of the metal frame (south-east elevation). Figure 40. Detail showing heavy reinforcement of the concrete roof. The Oxgate Admiralty Citadel building is known to be nearly identical with Station Z (of which only the sub-surface structure survives). Although this shows the construction of the floors above ground level, below it at sub- surface level was a basement roofed over by 3½ feet of reinforced concrete. Below that is a sub-basement protected by another 6 feet of concrete (probably in two layers). With comparable protection at the sides, the sub- basement was considered at the time to be entirely bombproof.
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4. HISTORY OF THE OXGATE ADMIRALTY CITADEL
4.1. In the late 1930s, as war loomed, government planners completely, they would move to towns in the ‘western 4.10. The War Office (i.e. army) bunker was planned to be built under contemplated the effects of a massive and sustained air attack Counties’. a Post Office building in Hounslow but this was cancelled, and on London – effects that were expected to be as bad as were a war room was fitted out in the basement of Knellar Hall in envisaged later from an attack with atomic weapons. The 4.6. After endorsement by the Cabinet in February 1937, this work Twickenham. The Home Secretary’s War Room was actually effects were anticipated to be widespread. was further developed in great secrecy and resulted in two built in the basement of the Home Office building in Whitehall alternative schemes, one of which was for accommodating not with a reserve on the other side of the Thames at Cornwall 4.2. As well as the immediate loss of life and damage to buildings only civil servants but also Ministers and Parliament in London's House. there would be the general disruption caused by, for example, northwest suburbs. the loss of communications infrastructure and the inability of 4.11. The War Rooms would only be occupied during air raids. At people to travel. Although these immediate effects on the civil 4.7. While the north-west suburbs scheme would see civil servants other times the staff would work in the above-ground offices population would be met by Air Raid Precaution measures, the working from ad hoc accommodation (local authority schools, and they would all sleep in the nearby flats and houses. government had to ensure that its operations which were then requisitioned hotels etc.), five heavily protected underground firmly based on central London could continue. These activities war rooms were planned as basements under new government 4.12. When war came in September 1939 the Government's current termed “continuity of government” or “the machinery of buildings. These would be for the three fighting services, the plan was to shift some 44,000 less-essential officials government in war” could cover many levels of the Ministry of Home Security and a central one for the War Cabinet immediately into the western half of the country but to defer governmental and administrative machine. comprising the War Cabinet, the Chiefs of Staff and their moving some 16,000 of the more-essential officials to various advisers. The war rooms would analyse information for the towns in the West Midlands until Whitehall had actually 4.3. At the top was the decision-making apparatus centred on the decision makers and provide protected meeting places which become untenable. War Cabinet with the heads of the armed forces and advisors. would continue to operate through air raids. Below them, at national level would be the various layers of the 4.13. In June 1940, however, the situation was changed dramatically civil service together with quasi-governmental bodies like the 4.8. When this suburban scheme was examined further in the by the fall of France, bringing the western half of England BBC, General Post Office, British Railways, etc. who would autumn of 1938, after the Munich crisis, the Office of Works within easy reach of German bombers. Moreover, the unhappy implement and add to those decisions. Consideration would wished to retain and develop it, but the Committee of Imperial experience of the French Government in Tours and Bordeaux also need to be given to the continued operation of the Defense preferred to shelve it in favour of the more radical suggested that a withdrawal of the British Government from monarchy and Parliament. Probably around 150,000 people fell alternative scheme for moving the entire government machine Whitehall to the West Midlands could have a catastrophic into these categories and this number would rise steadily into the western half of the country in one operation. impact both on national morale and on international during the war. confidence, whereas a regrouping in the north-west suburbs 4.9. However, the construction of three underground citadels would leave the Government still in London. 4.4. After the Election of November 1935, it was decided early in 1936 would go ahead: to appoint a Minister for the Coordination of Defense and to 4.14. Therefore, the planned move to the West Midlands was now launch an expanded five-year programme of rearmament as on • The Cabinet War Room which acquired the code name virtually abandoned, leaving the 1938 suburbs scheme as the the 7th March 1936 Hitler sent his troops into the Rhineland in Paddock, was built in the grounds of the Post Office only preferred alternative (Fox 2000). The decision to stay in defiance of the Versailles and Locarno treaties. The Cabinet Research Station at Dollis Hill under a new three- storey Whitehall and work under air raid attack led to the construction then called for contingency plans to be devised for coping with office block. It had some 38 rooms and two levels of temporary War Rooms in and around Whitehall. These were a potentially dangerous situation and among new sub- including a BBC studio and protected by up to nine feet built in the basements which were reinforced by sealing any committees set up under the Committee of Imperial Defense of reinforced concrete. windows, installing mechanical ventilation and strutting the was one on "the location and accommodation of staffs of ceilings. The idea was therefore not to resist a direct hit (as • The Admiralty bunker at the naval charts’ depot in Government Departments on the outbreak of war". opposed to the citadels in the NW suburbs of London) but to be Cricklewood (i.e. nos 403-405 Edgware Road), sometimes proof against blast and splinters and to be able to take the known as the IP after the ‘insurance party’ who would 4.5. In 1936, chaired by Sir Warren Fisher (Head of the Civil Service), debris load of the building above should it collapse. These initially occupy it in case the main Admiralty building the sub-committee proposed dividing the government staff temporary War Rooms were available by mid-1939 and the were damaged. This was manned throughout the war by working in and around Whitehall who supported the Central most important one was named the Central War Room which a small nucleus of staff ready to take over if the main Government into two groups. On the outbreak of hostilities in October was renamed the Cabinet War Room. Admiralty building in Whitehall was destroyed. those not directly concerned with the conduct of the war would be evacuated to the north-western and Midland counties of • The Air Ministry bunker known for anonymity as Station England. The second, smaller groups of c. 12, 000 required to Z beneath the Stationery Office site in Harrow. Like the run the war effort would itinually move to ten miles to the NW Admiralty bunker, this was also manned throughout the suburbs of London – i.e. places like Harlow, Wembley and war. Pinner. If the air attacks drove the government from London
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Oxgate Admiralty Citadel (nos. 403-405 Edgware Road, LB 4.18. At first the 'insurance party' included one naval captain and Brent) seven naval commanders with a substantial staff. To support this nucleus, if the need were to arise, staff of lesser 4.15. Since 1923, the Admiralty had occupied a naval charts importance were to have been accommodated in evacuated establishment on a site close to the Edgware Road between schools in the neighbourhood like Mora Road council school Humber Road and Oxgate Lane, about 500 yards south of in Cricklewood near Gladstone Park (capacity about 240) and Staples Corner. When, in 1937, a plan had to be formed for Braintcroft school in Warren Road Neasden (capacity about creating a bomb-proof Admiralty citadel in the north-west 200) but it seems that in the event these schools, though suburbs, it was thought that this site (known as Admiralty requisitioned by the Office of Works on the outbreak of war Chart Factory, Cricklewood) could be 'innocently enlarged' in after evacuation, were not in fact used for this purpose. peacetime by using the oblong acre of vacant land which lay between the factory and Oxgate Lane, fronting the Edgware 4.19. The superstructure of the IP building (known as The New Road for some 70 yards and Oxgate Lane for nearly 50 yards. Building to distinguish it from the original chart factory) was The building work could be done 'without giving rise to evidently completed in 1940 because the main entrance at suspicion' while an aerial survey of the district made for the the corner of Oxgate Lane and Edgware Road displays to this Office of Works by the Air Ministry showed that in this part of day the royal monogram GR VI with a crown and the date London it would be difficult for enemy bombers to pick out 1940, all in 'gold' metal, above the door - just as if this was a individual targets. The Office of Works nevertheless run-of-the-mill government building with nothing to hide. suggested that two landmarks in the vicinity, both easily But the curious may have wondered why the entry for the recognisable from the air, might need to be concealed. It was chart factory which had been appearing regularly in Kelly's suggested that the Welsh Harp should be drained and the street directory for about sixteen years was suddenly marshalling yards of the L.M.S. railway's Brent sidings could be excluded in 1941, leaving a blank space. Another precaution disguised by painting white lines across them to suggest for the sake of concealment was that all personal Figure 41. 1938 OS Map (NLS). The site on the corner of Oxgate Lane and roads. Neither of these steps was in fact taken. correspondence emanating from IP employees was taken Edgware Road is shown vacant with the Admiralty Chart Factory below. Site down by courier to the Admiralty in Whitehall and posted marked in red. (NLS) 4.16. In May 1937 experts from the Office of Works and the from there. Admiralty visited the Oxgate Lane site to assess possibilities, after which an Office of Works architect, C. J. Mole, produced 4.20. The Admiralty was the first Department to move into Neville's a design for a three storey building above ground, plus an Court, taking four flats in late August 1939 (see Fig. 84). A large upper basement and a specially protected lower basement; corner flat on the second floor was taken for the First Lord of this later influenced the design of the citadel at Dollis Hill. As the Admiralty. Two flats were specially strengthened and building operations, which started in late 1937, were expected knocked into one for Winston Churchill. By March to take two years to complete, it was arranged in mid-1938 1941 Paddock was almost in eclipse and the greater part of that the Post Office Research Station in Brook Road, Dollis Hill Neville's Court had been de-requisitioned. But in June 1941 should be designated as the Admiralty's temporary reserve the Admiralty still held sixteen flats which were not accommodation for use in an emergency, with space for the relinquished until January 1945. Admiralty officers who First Lord of the Admiralty, the First Sea Lord, the permanent occupied flats in Neville's Court were accustomed to walk secretary, the parliamentary secretary and the deputy chief of down to sleep in the total security of the Oxgate citadel. the naval staff. This was the situation at the time of Munich. (Catford, 2005).
4.17. The Admiralty retained a reservation on this accommodation 4.21. The New Building in Oxgate Lane (IP) operate continuously at the research station until December 1939, when they were into 1943, when it was described as the Admiralty's stand-by able to occupy the Oxgate citadel with a small party of naval in case the new Whitehall citadel got blitzed. But it had and civilian staff ensuring that, if Whitehall became unusable, ceased to be operational by the end of 1944. After the war it essential naval operations could be directed for the time was occupied for many years by the Health and Safety being from this secure alternative base. The three-storey Executive but is now in private hands. surface building now numbered 403 - 405 Edgware Road was completed a year later. Because this was a sort of insurance policy, the staff who went to Oxgate were known within the Admiralty as the 'insurance party' and the Citadel acquired the code-name IP. Figure 42. 1955 National Grid map showing the Oxgate Admiralty Citadel on the corner of Oxgate Lane and Edgware Road. Site marked in red. (NLS)
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Figure 43. Plan of the sub-basement of the Oxgate Citadel (Surveyed and Figure 44. The spine corridor in the sub-basement (Nick Catford, Figure 45. Decontamination shower in an alcove in the spine corridor (Nick Catford, drawn by Bob Jenner, Subterranea Britannica, 2003)). Subterranea Britannica, 2003). Subterranea Britannica, 2003).
Figure 46. The eastern emergency exit. The water is still leaking into the Figure 47. The blast door at the western end of the spine corridor Figure 48. The southern emergency exit. The spiral staircase is to the left of the blast sub-basement behind the pillar on the right (Nick Catford, Subterranea (Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2003). door. The words 'emergency exit' can still be seen on the inner wooden door. This is Britannica, 2003). the only original signage anywhere (Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2003).
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Figure 49. Second floor plan (2020). Figure 50. First floor plan (2020). Figure 51. Ground floor plan (2020).
Figure 52. Basement plan (1993) Figure 53. Lower basement plan (1993)
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5. OVERVIEW OF BUILDING TYPE: WWII MILITARY CITADELS
5.1. A number of military citadels are known to have been The PADDOCK - Cabinet War Rooms (Dollis Hill) constructed underground in central London, dating 5.10. Some parts of the underground work were not yet mostly from the Second World War and the Cold War. 5.6. In contrast, the suburban Emergency War complete in January 1940. By the following June, the Unlike traditional above-ground citadels, these sites are Headquarters at Dollis Hill (sometimes called CWR2) underground citadel had been completed. primarily secure centres for defense co-ordination. emerged from the work of the Fisher and Rae sub- committees, which produced the North-West London 5.11. In conformity with the original plan of 1938 it consisted 5.2. Currently, the most significant military citadel in central Suburbs Scheme. Although not proposed in the Rae of a basement roofed over by 3½ feet of reinforced London is Pindar, or the Defense Crisis Management Report itself, the Dollis Hill site had evidently been in De concrete and, at a depth of nearly forty feet below Centre. The bunker is deep beneath the Ministry of Normann's mind since 1937; and several references to it ground, a smaller sub-basement protected by another Defence on Whitehall. Pindar became operational in 1992, as the chosen place for CWR2 occur in his 6 feet of concrete (probably in two layers). With two years before construction was complete. correspondence in May 1938. In the same month the comparable protection at the sides, the sub-basement Office of Works assigned one of their architects F. M. was considered to be entirely bomb-proof. However, 5.3. The Citadel, Horseguards Parade, The Mall, was built 1940- Dean to "the Dollis Hill job"; but drawings were not probably through shortage of time, the above-ground 41 as an operations centre for the Admiralty. The examined in detail with Cabinet Office officials until the building seems to have been limited in the event to the foundations are nine metres deep, and a six-meter-thick Munich crisis had given these contingency plans a new ground floor only, provision for associated office staffs concrete roof protects the main rooms. In the event of a urgency. being made in the research station's main building. By ground attack the building would be defended from a June 1940 Dollis Hill was ready to provide a home for the number of loop-holed firing positions. In an attempt to 5.7. On 14 October 1938 the three men who had worked War Cabinet incomparably safer than the makeshift disguise the original function of the building, it is now together on CWR1 (Hollis, Burgis, De Normann) CWR1 in Storey's Gate. covered with Russian vine. It is still used by the Ministry of attended a meeting at the Office of Works in Storey's Defence and is now part of Whitehall’s communications. Gate at which De Normann presented "preliminary 5.12. The Prime Minster’s verdict on the Paddock was Sir Winston Churchill described it in his memoirs as a "vast plans" for creating a purpose-built, totally bomb-proof recorded in a minute to the Secretary to the Cabinet monstrosity which weighs upon the Horse Guards Parade. war headquarters deep under the grounds of the Dollis on October 22: “The accommodation at Paddock is The citadel is listed Grade II (HE ref. 1066638). Hill research station. This new HQ would in general quite unsuited to the conditions which have arisen. replicate the facilities of CWR1, including in particular a The War Cabinet cannot live and work there for 5.4. The only central London citadel currently open to the large map room with a usable wall surface of over a weeks on end while leaving the great part of their public is the Cabinet War Rooms, located in Horse Guards thousand square feet and a cabinet room with seating staffs less well provided for than they now are in Road in the basement of what is now HM Treasury. This for thirty people, all housed in a sub-basement nearly Whitehall. Apart from the citadel of Paddock, there is was not a purpose-built citadel but was instead a forty feet below ground. no adequate accommodation or shelter, and anyone reinforced adaptation of an existing basement built many living in Neville Court would have to be running to years before. The War Rooms were constructed in 1938 5.8. The sub-basement would be protected by a roof of and fro on every Jim Crow warning. Paddock should and were heavily used by Winston Churchill during World concrete five feet thick (probably in two layers with an be treated as last resort, and in the meantime should War II. However, the Cabinet War Rooms were vulnerable intervening layer of sand as a shock-absorber) while be used by some department not needed in the very to a direct hit and were abandoned not long after the war. over it would be a first basement considerably larger in centre of London.” The Cabinet War Rooms were a secret to all civilians until area, protected by another concrete roof three feet their opening to the public in 1984. They are now thick. The entrance to this citadel would be concealed 5.13. However, on Thursday 3 October 1940, Paddock maintained by the Imperial War Museum. within a new three-storey building already planned by finally served the purpose for which it had been the Post Office to meet its own peacetime needs. The created. A meeting of the War Cabinet began at 11.30 5.5. The next three sections below provide an overview of the ground floor of this building would be used for stores am, attended by Churchill, twelve other Ministers and citadel buildings of the suburbs scheme. These include: for the Post Office engineers' new experimental station. the three Chiefs of Staff, with an agenda of normal In peacetime the first and second floors would be used range and length. The Dollis Hill citadel was finally • Oxgate Admiralty Citadel, 403-405 Edgware Road, by the Post Office for lecture rooms, offices etc. but in locked up and abandoned at the end of 1944. The LB Brent; wartime they would be adapted for use in quiet periods whole of the Post Office site at Dollis Hill was sold off by a War Cabinet and its secretariat, by the Chiefs of to the private sector before 1980 (Catford and • Station Z (Air Ministry Citadel), Headstone Way, LB Staff, the Joint Planning Committee, etc; during periods Valentine, 2001). Harrow; and of air attack, however, there would be a general descent • the Paddock (Cabinet War Rooms), Dollis Hill, LB into the subterranean citadel. 5.14. The PADDOCK is on Brent Council's list of locally Brent listed buildings. 5.9. Construction work for the citadel started at the beginning of 1939 without attracting much attention although it involved earth-shifting on a massive scale.
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Figure 54. Plan of the sub-basement of the PADDOCK
Figure 55. Late 1930s OS plan showing the location of the PADDOCK in relation to Neville’s Court (staff Figure 56. View of the upper basement of the PADDOCK. accommodation).
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THE PADDOCK - Cabinet War Rooms (Dollis Hill, LB Brent)
Figure 57. The upper level building and the main ventilation tower Figure 58. 2001: Top of a spiral staircase down to the sub- Figure 59. 2001: The map room in the sub-basement. Note the (Subterranea Britannica) basement. Note the frame for the blast door (photo by Nick message hatch in the far wall into an adjacent office. This picture Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) was taken after the sub-basement was pumped out door (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001)
Figure 60. 2001: Cabinet room in the sub-basement before the water was Figure 61. 2001: The bottom of the southern spiral staircase Figure 62. 2001: The battery room - note the tiled floor in case pumped out. Note the message hatch into the teleprinter room in the far down to the sub-basement. This picture was taken before the one of the batteries leaks. There was a sink at the back of the wall (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) sub-basement was pumped dry. (photo by Nick Catford, room (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) Subterranea Britannica, 2001)
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Figure 63. The cabinet room - this is where Churchill chaired the war Figure 64. The main distribution frame in the upper basement (photo Figure 65. The main plant room in the sub-basement with the stand-by cabinet on 3rd October 1940. Note the message hatch from the teleprinter by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) generator in the centre, control cabinet for the generator left and ventilation room in the end wall (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) plant right (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001)
Figure 66. The Map Room at PADDOCK seen in April 2001 before the flood Figure 67. The upper basement spine corridor. Note the serving hatch Figure 68. Filtration plant in the sub-basement. This picture was taken before the water was pumped out (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, from the kitchen on the left. Note also the sign pointing to Floor 28 sub-basement was pumped out (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2001) which is the surface building (photo by Nick Catford, Subterranea 2001) Britannica, 2001)
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Station Z – Air Ministry’s Citadel (Headstone Drive, LB 5.18. The sub-basement is similar to the basement with 25 pillars Harrow) directly beneath those in the basement. All internal partition walls have been removed with the exception of a 5.15. In line with the original 1938 plan the Air Ministry citadel small block extending into the room from the east wall. consisted of a three storey above ground surface block with Here there is one separate room and an adjacent short an inner courtyard. Below this was a basement roofed over corridor leading to the east stairs. A number of concrete by 3½ feet of reinforced concrete and below it a sub‐ plinths in the north east corner indicated where the basement protected by another 6 feet of concrete (probably ventilation plant was sited. The substantial concrete engine in two layers); with comparable protection at the sides, the bed to the generator is still in place’. sub‐basement was considered to be entirely bombproof. The building was almost identical to the Admiralty citadel in 5.19. After WW2 Station Z still housed some Air Ministry Oxgate Lane, Cricklewood. departments until 1955. It was only vacated by Home Office in 1992. Currently the only indications of anything below 5.16. The Citadel lay within the grounds of the former Kodak site ground are a small prefabricated metal entrance hut over on Headstone Drive. This housed manned and operating the top of the northern emergency staircase, two ventilator sections: war room, telephone exchange, teleprinter and outlets with an emergency escape hatch between and the communications. War room records were maintained here. concrete caps of the lift shaft and the other emergency exit Intelligence Civil Clerical Staff Administrative Section were (Catford, 2005). housed in this citadel as well as Whitehall. It also housed the Intelligence RAF Staff Administrative Section as well as the 5.20. The surface office block was demolished in 1996. The site has Technical Intelligence & Crashed Enemy Aircraft since been sold and is being redeveloped. However, the Figure 69. Station Z which consists of a 3-storey office block with an examination section, HQ, Translation Section and the supply sub-surface element is identified in LB Harrow’s local list upper and lower basement. Photo from the grounds of Kodak Ltd. of maps to the RAF. The new Air Ministry site was ready for and locally listed building. (Subterranea Britannica) occupation by October 1940 as detailed in a minute sent to the Deputy Under Secretary of State for Air on 11.10.1940 5.21. The citadel now forms part a wider Kodak development site (National Archive ref: Air 19/190) "The Air Ministry Citadel is for which planning consent for mixed use development was situated at the rear of HM Stationary Office premises (HMSO granted in 2015: Printing Works) Headstone Drive, Wealdstone, Middlesex. It is known for the sake of anonymity as Z or the Stationery ‘Approval of all reserved matters for development plot D7 Office Annexe. and the Green Link of Development Zone D of the Harrow View East Masterplan and details pursuant to conditions 5.17. After WW2 Station Z still housed some Air Ministry 7(Urban Design Report), 8(Energy Strategy), 9(Ecology and departments until 1955. It was only vacated by Home Office Biodiversity Strategy), 11(Housing Schedule), 12(Daylight in 1992. Currently the only indications of anything below and Sunlight Assessment), 13(Surface Water Drainage ground are a small prefabricated metal entrance hut over Strategy), 14(Accessibility Strategy), 15(Lighting Strategy), the top of the northern emergency staircase, two ventilator 16(Refuse Strategy), 17(Noise and Vibration Strategy), outlets with an emergency escape hatch between and the 18(Arboricultural Strategy), 19(Landscaping), 20(Transport concrete caps of the lift shaft and the other emergency exit. Strategy), 21(Levels), 22(Open Space Strategy) following Upper basement level has been stripped of original fixtures outline planning permission granted under P/2165/15 dated and fittings leaving one large 'open plan' room with 25 09.12.2015 for the comprehensive phased, mixed use supporting pillars evenly spaced in five lines. On the east development of land bounded by Harrow View and side the original plant entrance, loading bay and east Headstone Drive (known as Harrow View East).’ stairway are enclosed within a walled area. A personnel access hatch has been retained and there is a wooden 5.22. Station Z will be preserved in situ as part of the ladder against the wall if access is required. The 8" thick steel development. New buildings will be constructed above it, door frames for blast proof doors are still in place. Four which will reinstate its previous existence prior to the stairways go down to the protected lower level or sub- demolition of the above ground buildings several years ago. basement. Two of these are wide concrete stairways with There are no proposed structural alterations to the Citadel door frames at the bottom where the blast doors have been proposed as part of the development (LB Harrow, planning Figure 70. Upper basement of Station Z. The layout is very much identical removed. There were originally two spiral staircases which ref. P/2165/15). to Oxgate Citadel. (Plan by Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica) acted as the emergency exits: one remains at the bottom of the present access stairs, though blocked off and out of use.
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STATION Z – Air Ministry’s Citadel (Headstone Drive, LB Harrow)
Figure 71. The inner courtyard in c.1985. The bunker is beneath the Figure 72. Station Z in c. 1985. The two-level bunker is beneath the office Figure 73.. The new entrance point to the bunker. This was originally the north courtyard and the building that surrounds it. Note the two ventilation building. (Source: Photo by Dr. James Fox/John Harris from RAF emergency exit (Photo by Keith Ward, 2005). towers. The radio mast was erected in 1955 for the Home Office Hilltop Holmpton archive). Radio system (Source: Photo by Dr. James Fox/John Harris from RAF Holmpton archive).
Figure 74. The new entrance point to the bunker. This was originally the Figure 75. The capped lift shaft (back) and south entrance stairs (front) Figure 76. Location of the former Air Ministry Citadel today (approximate north emergency exit (Photo by Jane MacGregor, 2005). (Photo by Keith Ward, 2005). location of the entrance to the below ground structure marked in red). The site is currently being developed into a major new residential area. The below ground citadel will be retained in situ (LB Harrow planning ref. P/3405/11).
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Figure 77. The upper floor (basement) at Station Z. The ventilation trunking Figure 78. The ventilation plant area in 2005. The machine bed in the Figure 79. The bed for the standby generator, located in the north emergency suspended from the ceiling is a recent addition (Nick Catford, Subterranea 1985 picture is on the right in the 2005 picture (Nick Catford, exit corridor, upper basement (Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005). Britannica, 2005). Subterranea Britannica, 2005).
Figure 80. Blast door on the upper floor c.1985 (Photo by Dr. James Figure 81. The upper floor c.1985 (Photo by Dr. James Fox/John Figure 82. The northern spiral staircase between the upper and lower level (Nick Fox/John Harris from RAF Holmpton archive). Harris from RAF Holmpton archive). Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005).
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Figure 83. West stairs with railed 'incline' in the upper basement (Nick Figure 84. South spiral staircase position seen from the lower level (Nick Figure 85. East end of the lower level - the doorway leads to the east stairs up to the Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005). Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005). basement (Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005).
Figure 86. East stairs on the lower level - water tanks were located in Figure 87. South emergency exit on the lower level (Nick Catford, this corridor (Nick Catford, Subterranea Britannica, 2005). Subterranea Britannica, 2005).
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Nos 403-405 Edgware Road (former Oxgate Admiralty Citadel)
15 min walk between the Oxgate Admiralty Citadel and Neville Court staff accommodation
Entrance to the Paddock Central Government War Rooms
Former ground of the Post Office Research Station at Dollis Hill
Neville Court
Figure 88. Google Earth image showing the location of nos 403-405 Edgware Road to the Paddock at Dollis Hill and the accommodation quarters at Neville’s Court.
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6. ASSESSMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE
6.1. The methodology for assessment of significance has been headquarters as the typology and designed use of these from the main entrance which comprises a Portland informed by Historic England’s Advice Note 12 shelters was distinctly different. Stone doorcase with corbels attached on either side. The ‘Statements of Significance: Analysing Significance in main entrance at the corner of Oxgate Lane and Edgware Heritage Assets’ (October 2019). This advice note forms Road is canted and displays to this day the royal Age and rarity part of the staged approach to decision-making in which monogram GR VI with a crown and the date 1940, all in assessing significance precedes designing the painted gold metal, above the door. The Crittall windows 6.5. The former Admiralty citadel at nos. 403-405 Edgware proposal(s). have largely all been removed. No features or fittings of Road is broadly contemporary with the other two note were identified in the interiors, aside from the repeat- underground citadels built at the same time: the 6.2. The NPPF defines significance as ‘the value of a heritage produced cast-iron spiral staircase connecting the above Emergency War Headquarters (codename Paddock) and asset to this and future generations because of its ground structure to the citadel below. the Air Ministry Citadel (codename Station Z). These heritage interest’. Such interest may be archaeological, formed all part of the Government’s initial scheme in the architectural, artistic or historic’ and it may derive ‘not Group value late 1930s for an alternative centre of government / armed only from a heritage asset’s physical presence, but also services in the north-western suburbs of London. from its setting’ (PPG Glossary). 6.10. The structure retains some functional group value with
the other two contemporary citadels which formed part 6.6. Although nos. 403-405 does form part of the earliest 6.3. This section will therefore comprise two main parts: of the Government’s initial scheme to provide emergency examples of World War II defense structures, it belongs to accommodation for the central government and Armed a particular group of citadels and cabinet war rooms (i) Description (analysis) of the various interests: Services in the suburbs of London. The other structures: constructed at the outset of World War II, specifically These are arranged in four groups comprising the Paddock at Dollis Hill and Station Z are similar in their designed to accommodate the central government and following: typology. They were all constructed as below ground services. All of these structures were part of a wider project bombproof structures with above ground elements. All overseen by a specially appointed sub-committee under 1. Evidential interest: the potential of a place to three below ground structures still exist though Oxgate is Sir James Rae (Treasury) which looked at the provision of yield evidence about past human activity. the only one to retain the above ground structure as well. alternative centre of government should be planned in
the London area where Ministers and possibly Parliament 2. Aesthetic interest: the ways in which people 6.11. The Paddock, located at Dollis Hill (c.800m meters SW of could be relocated if Whitehall were to become unusable. draw sensory and intellectual stimulation the Site and of the three citadels constructed (Oxgate,
from a place. Paddock and Station Z) retains the highest historical 6.7. The three citadels (i.e. the Paddock, Station Z and the significance as the bunker was designed for the entire war Oxgate Admiralty Citadel) were built and formed part of 3. Historic interest: the ways in which past cabinet with 200 staff and it was also visited by Winston the initial suburban scheme, all of which were superseded people, events and aspects of life can be Churchill during one of the Cabinet Meetings in 1940. It by the cabinet war rooms in central London (i.e. Storey’s connected through a place to the present. was 40 feet below ground with an outer covering of steel Gate was an adoption of two basement levels of an extant reinforced concrete three and a half feet thick and a small, building and purpose designed and built Rotunda, 4. Communal interest: the meanings of a place deep chamber covered by two layers of concrete six feet Westminster, an adoption of a void remaining from for the people who relate to it, or for whom it thick separated by loose sand to absorb the shocks of dismantled gas holder) and the Admiralty citadel at the figures in their collective experience or repeated bombing. Paddock was considered capable of Horse Guards Parade (now Grade II listed). memory. withstanding any weapon used at that time.
6.8. Overall, the former Oxgate Admiralty Citadel does retain (ii) Statement of significance: Assessment of the level 6.12. The former Oxgate Citadel retains limited historic group some age and rarity in the narrow context of the of the general significance of the heritage asset and value with Neville Court, a staff accommodation located construction of Central Government and Services citadels the particular contribution to that significance of approximately 850m SW of the citadel (see Figure 84 during the outset of WWII. The structure is virtually any features which would be affected by the above). In fact, the Admiralty was the first Department to identical to the Air Ministry’s citadel (codename Station Z) proposal, or of its setting if it, too, is affected by the move into Neville's Court, taking four flats in late August in LB Harrow of which only the below ground element proposal. 1939. A large corner flat on the second floor was taken for survives. The latter is similarly identified as a locally listed the First Lord of the Admiralty. Two flats were specially building. 6.4. In addition to the criteria above, the assessment of strengthened and knocked into one for Winston
significance will define the interest of the former Oxgate Churchill. Neville Court was much closer to The Paddock Aesthetic value citadel in the context of other contemporary bomb-proof than Oxgate and Neville Court’s rooms were primarily underground citadels for central government and armed intended for users of The Paddock. Neville Court is not 6.9. The former Oxgate Admiralty Citadel was a functional services. It will not assess the structure in the context of statutorily nor locally listed. building, purposefully designed not to attract attention civilian air raid shelters of contemporary date nor in the and built to a budget, therefore aesthetic qualities were context of later Cold War Central Government Emergency secondary. The above ground structure is a modest three-
storey brick construction. There is little decoration aside
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Evidential value 6.18. The use of reinforced concrete by the late 1930s was not much of that has been lost. Whilst the importance of the unique. However, Historic England notes that the use of Edgware Road as a key road artery has significantly 6.13. The original layout of both the above ground and below reinforced concrete in structures produced for military increased, the immediate context of the site comprises a ground structures largely survives, albeit most of the use during and between the two World Wars could retain wide variety of industrial units of no architectural merit. internal partition walls at the second and third floors have some historic interest (HE 2012, 33). The concrete used been removed and there have been some alterations to during that time period itself was necessarily finished Statement of Significance the central courtyard. No original furniture or fittings rough and raw. One example of this is the listening post at survive. Loftus, near Redcar in North Yorkshire (dates from 1916) 6.23. In isolation, the Oxgate Admiralty Citadel at 403-405 and was constructed from rendered cast slag concrete Edgware Road retains limited historic value as a surviving 6.14. The below-ground structure survives in its original layout, (Grade II). example of the Government’s early plans for the provision albeit access to the sub-basement is restricted due to of central government emergency headquarters in the flooding. The client has supplied video recordings when 6.19. In case of the former Oxgate Citadel, visual inspection did London suburbs. the water was about 300mm deep. Some ventilation not identify any innovative use of concrete albeit there is ducts survive, and an emergency generator is identifiable. limited historic interest in the extensive thickness of the 6.24. In the context of other contemporary bunkers specifically Far less survived in Oxgate compared to Station Z and The walls and ceilings of the sub-basement to make it entirely designed and developed as an initial emergency Paddock. Oxgate’ s services have negligible significance. bombproof. The chamfered heads to the columns accommodation for the central government and the The few office-type fittings are very degraded and do not probably incorporate steel reinforcement bent to link the services and based on the historic understanding of the appear to have any special interest. columns to the floor slabs more efficiently than if the slab development and use of all three of the citadels, and their had a flat soffit throughout. The condition of the structure state of survival today, the significance of the three 6.15. There are very few notable features and fittings has been assessed in Parmarbrook’s Structural Condition structures is ranked as follows in decreasing order: throughout the structure, with the cast-iron spiral Report (November 2020). staircase together with a few original simple Crittall 1. Paddock windows surviving. None of the original air ventilation Historic association 2. Oxgate Admiralty Citadel plant appears to have survived.1 3. Station Z (Air Ministry’s citadel) 6.20. Military sites are often evocative witnesses to past 6.16. However, in relation to the Air Ministry’s Station Z citadel conflicts. While all military structures will be of some 6.25. Overall, the Oxgate citadel is an example of a small group in LB Harrow, the overall structure is more complete as historic interest, the degrees of historical association will war rooms designed in the late 1930s for the government only the underground bunker survives of the former (the inevitably vary. Government policy is clear that candidates and associated services. As part of this group, it retains above ground structure was demolished in 1996. This was for designation ought to be well preserved in a form which some interest as a surviving contingency wartime a more assured design with Art Moderne influences in its directly illustrates and confirms their historical administration space for the Admiralty. However, the fenestration. Oxgate’ s few remaining windows have associations, if they are to be designated on historical initial suburban scheme for the construction of these repetitious same sized small panes. grounds. Particularly close links with noted military bunkers was soon superseded and all three structures saw actions may sometimes be significant. little activity during the wartime. Technological interest 6.21. Oxgate Admiralty Citadel retains limited historic 6.26. Architecturally, the above ground structure retains no 6.17. The detailed construction of the war-time citadels associative value in that regard. Firstly, this is related to the interest whilst the underground portion retains some remains unknown as no original plans and details have wider historical and social interest associated with the limited interest as an example of substantially reinforced been identified. However, based on secondary sources, significance of WWII. Secondly, the citadel is part of an basement structure built to withstand repeated bombing. the Oxgate structure, similarly to Station Z and the early government scheme specifically designed and However, technologically, the use of reinforced concrete Paddock, comprises a three storey above ground surface (partially) carried out to accommodate the central at the date of its construction was not unique and its block with an inner courtyard. Below this is a basement government and the three services in the NW suburbs in limited interest only lies in the sheer amount of roofed over by approx. 3½ feet of reinforced concrete and case Whitehall became unusable. reinforcement used to withstand repeated bombings. below it a sub-basement protected by another 6 feet of concrete (probably in two layers separated by loose sand Contribution of setting to absorb the shocks of repeated bombing) with 6.22. The setting around the former citadel has changed from comparable protection at the sides, the sub-basement was considered to be entirely bombproof. Visual when it was initially constructed in the late 1930s. Whilst inspection of the site did not identify any innovative or the site has always been located within the industrial area unusual technological or constructional elements. of Dollis Hill (i.e. the site was originally located at the northern section of the Admiralty Chart Factory complex),
1 It is likely that originally, fresh air was drawn in from a vent, ducting took air to the air filtration plant room (sub-basement). The ventilation shaft (more correctly described as an exhaust shaft) took away circulated air and exhaust fumes from the generator.
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7. ASSESSMENT OF THE PROPOSAL
7.1. The proposed redevelopment by Todd Architects comprises 7.6. Looked at in the round, although the proposal would result factors led Parmarbrook to conclude that it is not the following: in a complete loss of its heritage significance, the value of structurally feasible to retain the existing basement that significance is considered to be low (as identified in structure. (p.22)”
Section 6 above). “Demolition of existing building and basements and 7.13. As per the Structural Condition Report, the cost of re-using replacement with mixed-use development (24,712 sq. m the existing building is unwarranted in relation to the likely GIA) incorporating 17 storey building and 3 basements, 7.7. As set out in Policy CP5 of the Core Strategy (and in the returns on investment and the low heritage significance. The comprising: flexible light industrial (Class E)/B2/B8 emerging new Local Plan), the effect of an application on the commercial reality is that if the cost of repairing and employment space (in accordance with Part 3 of Schedule significance of such a NDHA is a material consideration in upgrading the property is uneconomic, it is likely that it 2 (Class V) of The Town and Country Planning (General determining an application by the LPA. would remain unoccupied and would continue to Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015 (as deteriorate, devaluing its limited heritage significance. amended)); Class C1 Hotel (including ancillary gym, spa and 7.8. While the NPPF does not set out a presumption in favour of swimming pool); Class F.1 Conference Centre; Class F.2 conservation of NDHAs (unless they are in a conservation 7.14. With regard to other surviving examples of war-time community hub; basement car parking accessed from area), Policy DMP 7 of Brent’s Development Management underground bunkers, the PADDOCK, further south-west of Oxgate Lane (providing 76 car parking spaces); cycle Policies (2016) does set up a presumption against the the site, is a much more complete survival of a WWII-era parking; internal service yard; coach drop-off lay-by; demolition of heritage assets, whether or not they are underground bunker. It also has much stronger historic management and back of house areas; plant; roof garden designated. associations as it saw more activity during war time as and outdoor terraces; public realm improvements and opposed to the Admiralty Citadel which was kept as a associated works.” 7.9. Furthermore, Policy DMP 7 states that damage to historic backup space for the Admiralty.
assets and their setting should be avoided wherever and as
far as possible. Therefore, the policy background indicates 7.2. Nos 403-405 Edgware Road (i.e. the former Admiralty 7.15. Modern buildings have a scale and heavyweight that there would need to be a good reason to accept the loss Citadel) is a locally listed building and is therefore a non- construction, the physical preservation of which can be out of the existing building. designated heritage asset (‘NDHA’) in NPPF terms. The of proportion to their heritage significance. A different building is included in LB Brent’s list of locally listed buildings method is ‘preservation by record’. (January 2020). 7.10. It is acknowledged that the pre-application advice (dated October 2019) noted that the LPA’s preference would be that 7.16. A detailed survey can be carried out prior to demolition to a
the underground bunker at least should be retained. This brief agreed with the local planning authority. The approved 7.3. For each locally listed building, LB Brent has provided a option was explored during the preliminary design stage but final report can then be deposited in the local Historic significance score, comprising authenticity, architectural, due to the poor condition of the structure, it was concluded Environment Record (HER). This is standard practice for any historical /archaeological and townscape interests. For the that this option would not be feasible. This is explained approved demolition of designated buildings, and it would Oxgate Citadel, the overall significance score is identified as further below. be an appropriate solution for this site given its limited ‘7’. There is no explanation of how the methodology has been significance and the impracticality of its preservation in situ. derived nor how the numerical value of each interest category has been determined. Therefore, whilst Brent’s 7.11. The construction of the proposed new 17 storey mixed-use interest categories broadly comply with relevant guidance, building in place of the existing NDHA is acceptable in 7.17. Paragraph 197 of the NPPF requires that when weighing the overall score has no local or national policy basis and certain circumstances. Namely, one of these is the case applications that affect directly or indirectly non- designated carries little weight. where the existing building is unviable to re-use or convert. heritage assets, a balanced judgement will be required having regard to the scale of any harm or loss and the
significance of the heritage asset. The planning benefits of 7.4. Appearance-wise, the existing 3-storey brick structure facing 7.12. The building is in a very poor physical condition both the proposed scheme have been outlined in the Planning Edgware Road and Oxgate Lane clearly belongs to an earlier internally and externally. The existing two-level basement Statement by Contour Planning (November 2020). period compared to other modern box-retail and warehouse does not allow for a flexible redevelopment of the site as has structures surrounding it. Its roadside position and general been illustrated in the Structural Condition Report by appearance do generate a sense of history and this suggests Parmarbrook (November 2020). This is because of the 7.18. Non-designated heritage assets are on the lowest rung of the that it should be seen as a heritage asset that continues to extensive water damage and the poor state of the concrete hierarchy of heritage assets and whilst the proposal would form a limited component of the historic environment. in the last 70 years. Namely, the report concludes that: involve a complete loss of significance, that significance is itself low. The weight to be afforded to the harm arising from
the complete loss of the asset is therefore modest. 7.5. As identified in Section 6 above, the building is not “It would be disproportionately expensive to create the third architecturally significant and has remained empty and in a level of basement beneath the existing levels. More deteriorated state for the past half a century. importantly, it is extremely probable the existing basement shell is beyond realistic repair with regard to providing a
future sixty years of design life. The combination of these
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7.19. The benefits are more substantial, and would be likely to contribute to the wider economy, arising from the construction of a new mixed-use development providing:
• Flexible employment space (Class E/B2/B8): 4,879 sq. m GIA • Hotel (Class C1): 140 bed hotel, including restaurants and café, gym, health spa and swimming pool – 10,753 sq. m GIA • Conference Centre (Class F.1): including 2 No. Halls, together with shared lobby and reception areas – 1,162 sq. m • Community ‘Hub’ (Class F.2): 1,859 sq. m GIA
7.20. Therefore, as assessed throughout this report, we consider that there is an extensive range of benefits that outweigh the presumption against development provided by the DMP and draft Local Plan policies. The demolition of the existing structure and its replacement with a new mixed-use development is therefore considered to be appropriate and will outweigh the limited harm.
7.21. As stated in the accompanying Planning Statement, the key benefits of the proposal are its compliance with the Council’s vision and objectives for Staples Corner (described in the draft Local Plan), namely how it will assist the transformation of Staples Corner into a new mixed-use community, linking to the Brent Cross West station and the Brent Cross Opportunity Area in LB Barnet.
7.22. The assessment of the proposed development on the character and appearance of the existing area has been assessed in a separate Townscape and Visual Assessment by Park Hood, November 2020.
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8. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
8.1. The Site at 403-405 Edgware Road is located on the corner 8.9. The benefits are substantial, and would contribute to the of Edgware Road and Oxgate Lane in North London and is wider economy, arising from the construction of a new identified in LB Brent’s local list as a locally listed building mixed-use development providing: (NDHA in NPPF terms).
- Flexible employment space (Class E/B2/B8): 4,816 sq. 8.2. The former Admiralty citadel comprises a brick three-storey m GIA building above ground with a central open courtyard and - Hotel (Class C1): 140 bed hotel, including restaurants upper basement and a protected lower (sub) basement and café, gym, health spa and swimming pool – 10,921
below ground. sq. m GIA
- Conference Centre (Class F.1): including 2 No. Halls,
8.3. The site does not lie in Conservation Area nor within an together with shared lobby and reception areas – 1,251 Archaeological Priority Zone. sq. m
- Community ‘Hub’ (Class F.2): 1,800 sq. m GIA 8.4. No other heritage assets will be affected by the proposed
development 8.10. Therefore, as assessed throughout this report, we consider there is an extensive range of benefits that outweigh the Statement of significance presumption against development provided by the DMP and draft Local Plan policies. The demolition of the existing 8.5. Overall, the Oxgate citadel is an example of a small group structure and its replacement with a new mixed-use war rooms designed in the late 1930s for the government development is therefore considered to be appropriate and and associated services. As part of this group, it retains some will outweigh the limited harm. The building can be interest as a surviving contingency wartime administration ‘preserved by record’. space for the Admiralty. However, the initial suburban
scheme for the construction of these bunkers was soon superseded and all three structures saw little activity during the wartime. November 2020
8.6. Architecturally, the above ground structure retains no Bridges Associates Architects interest whilst the underground portion retains some limited interest as an example of substantially reinforced basement structure built to withstand repeated bombing. However, technologically, the use of reinforced concrete at the date of its construction was not unique and its limited interest only lies in the sheer amount of reinforcement used to withstand repeated bombings.
Assessment of proposals
8.7. Non-designated heritage assets are on the lowest rung of the hierarchy of heritage assets and whilst the proposal would involve the complete loss of its significance, that significance is itself low. The weight to be afforded to the harm arising from the complete loss of the asset is therefore modest.
8.8. Whilst the possibility of re-using the building was explored, the cost of doing so is unwarranted in relation to the likely returns on investment and the low heritage significance. This is because of the poor condition of this very specialist building.
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SELECTED SOURCES:
Catford, N. and Valentine, K. (2005) Station Z Air Ministry Citadel, https://www.subbrit.org.uk/sites/station-z-air-ministry-citadel/
Catford, N. and Valentine, K. (2003) Oxgate Admiralty Citadel, https://www.subbrit.org.uk/sites/oxgate-admiralty-citadel/ Catford, N. and Valentine, K. (2001) Paddock Standby Cabinet War Room, https://www.subbrit.org.uk/sites/paddock-standby-cabinet-war-room/
DCLG’s National Planning Policy Framework (2019)
Fox, Steve (2000) Where did the Government Go? In Subterranea Britannica, http://www.subbrit.org.uk/rsg/features/government/
Historic England (2019) ‘Statements of Significance: Analysing Significance in Heritage Assets’
Historic England (2017) The Setting of Heritage Assets (version 2), Good Practice Advice in Planning Note 3
Historic England (2012) Practical Building Conservation: Concrete
LB Brent (2010) Core Strategy
LB Brent (2016) Development Management Policies
LB Brent (2020) Locally Listed Heritage Assets in Brent
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