Dow Crag New Routes and Comments

These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Dow Crag and associated crags

Comments Received

A Buttress

Southern Circuit MVS This is reported to be harder and more serious than the grade might suggest, more like VS or 5c depending on how p4 is started, taken as per the guide it is a short committing move (especially for those lacking in height), but from memory there is a hidden rock 4/5 just on the right after you start the moves. This may be by-passed by climbing the easy chimney on its left (start of Balrog pitch 3) for 2m, then stepping right to join the slab just above the overhang. Even with this evasion the route is worth VS rather than MVS. The technical crux was pitch 1. This was quite stiff for 4b, but not unduly. In bone dry conditions, the moss was not too much of a problem, and the holds and protection were good. Pitch 3 has some difficult route finding, and in general the route is quite serious, challenging and worthwhile for those who enjoy general seriousness.

Side Walk Note. On the Dow Crag diagram Side Walk is shown as going up the dog-leg crack, but the guide describes it climbing the groove on the left. The latter is the correct route for Side Walk

B Buttress Broadrick's Direct Possible undergraded, may be VS 4b, 4c rather than MVS 4a, 4a? We agree that the route is undergraded, but thought the first pitch had a harder move than the second (probably more so for a shorter person). If combined with the straightened-out Direct Finish, it would be 63m, MVS 4c,4b,4a. (Last pitch climbed by Ian Gray and MB 17.9.2014.)" Max Biden 21/09/2014 09:55:48

Madam and B Buttress Variations Following the discovery of a description made after the first ascent it seems that the descriptions of Madam and B Buttress Variations is incorrect. Madam climbs the first pitch of what is now described as B Buttress Variations; Madam as currently described is the variation start to Eliminate B (1947)

Giant's Crawl Report of a very loose and wobbly pinnacle on the last pitch. A large block (cubic metre maybe?) was knocked off Giant's Crawl on 25th April 2009. It was on the pitch which traverses back left near the top. The whole pitch is quite unstable and there were quite a few loose blocks still there. The block smashed into Easy Terrace and managed to get most of the way to the tarn.

Pandora's Box The first peg as described is now no longer (having fallen out), but it has created a bomber no. 1 Rock placement to protect the initial moves

Pink Panther The thin flake at its start fell away with tragic consequences in 2003. The start should be described as: "Start on a flat topped pedestal 3 metres left of the bridged block. Step right to a flat ledge and climb a scoop

Eliminate B Pitch 3 should read: 16m, Walk left and then climb easily right up the slab

Close to Critical E6 6a **. James McHaffie comments that Close to Critical is now very pokey as the bottom peg is missing. It deserves

The Shining Path The second peg snapped off under a small load, there are 2 other pegs of a similar type on this route, obviously in a similar state. (The pegs are the foreign thick blades with the eye at 45 degrees, Charlet-Moser Universal?) What is going to happen with this route - will someone replace the pegs, or will the route revert to

1 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. a "natural" state? Is it a huge ethical concern to replace all 5 pegs on the route, maybe every 10 years? However the route has been led without using the pegs by C Matheson?

Blind tarn Crag

Goldscope Direct Should be E3?

Grey Crag Page: 83

Routes appear to be reverting t nature, one visitor noted that Drought (MVS) was dry but seemed much harder than 4b with poor gear. Glasnevin Wall (MVS) was found to be wet and looked unclimbed. Culloden (VS) was pretty clean and a decent route. Golden Striker (S) was filthy and avoided. The Peddler (S) had good rock and climbing but was dirty. At the top, a traverse to the belay of Culloden was needed to avoid a huge heather cornice.

In reply Climbed here about 10 years ago and were pleasantly surprised at the time (mostly anyway!). It seemed then like a pleasant enough place in its limited way. We climbed a number of routes: Culloden was good, Glasnevin Wall we thought worth a star perhaps, Drought was dry-ish but definitely bold and probably due for an upgrade. We also did The Bluebird which was 5b (not 5a) and worth a star

Little How Crag

Sunshine Arête This can be started direct at Severe and has Very obviously been climbed before. The diagram in both guides is wrong as it does not show the top pitch of the route.

Thunder Slab The diagram shows the alternative finish which is HVS (5a).

Thunderclap Thunderclap seemed very easy for VS - MVS 4b maybe?

Greased Lightning Seemed very easy for HVS and the gear is reasonable - VS 4c?

Great How Crag

Original Route VD A sandbag at VD, definitely S

Sunlight Crag Page: 104 The routes on this crag appear to be described in the wrong order. Of the existing routes, reading from left to right, Moonshine should be described first, then Sunlight Crack etc. The Sunday Slab presumably starts right of Moonshine - or it could actually be the Variation Start to that route.

Sunlight Crack Great little climb - did in one pitch instead of breaking into 3. Not convinced by the grade of Mild Severe in the 1993 Dow guide! The 'slightly overhanging corner' is not well protected and at least a 4a move and the top slab has no gear. I would grade Severe/Hard Severe. On the other side of the spectrum 'Moonshine' although not hugely well protected is a little over graded at Severe and is more like an easy Mild Severe."

2 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Yew Pike Page: 116

Sunshine Boys MS The length of this route is more like 30m, not the 25m given in current guide book. I can also confirm that this route is excellent on good clean rock and well protected (Dow Crag rough). It has a gymnastic start to get established, but once established is just about at the MS grade given in current guide book.

Horn Route VS Checked this route for guide book. It does not deserve a star. It is very poorly protected and very awkward climbing i.e. does not flow. The grade should be at HVS 4c. The climb was very dusty and lichenous and this is also apparent on the other climbs on this buttress. I can also confirm that Longhorn as described is dismal route

Mart Crag Yewdale Page: 119 The access described in the current guide is not ideal as it encourages visiting climbers to climb dry stone walls. A better approach is:

Turn onto the Copper Mines valley road, between the Black Bull Inn and the Co-op (a reasonable amount of roadside parking is available on the straight section of road beyond the Ruskin Museum). Walk up the road until open fell is evident on the right. Go through the bridle gate and follow a good track until another gate through a wall into a wood is encountered. From here ignore the gate and follow the trod above the woodland fell wall until the crag comes into view. The final choice of ways to the crag are all steep and rough and the most arduous. This approach is approx. 1km and 30mins should be enough to reach the base of the crag.

New Routes and Variations Easy Buttress Profanity Arête 32m HVS 5a * Climbs the arête left of Blasphemy Crack. Start below the Blasphemy Crack pinnacle, where a crack reaches the bed of Easy Gully. Climb the crack to a junction with Blasphemy Crack, and from a pedestal above, pull leftwards onto a slab and move up to the upper left corner. Climb the well positioned arête above. First ascent: () A Phizacklea, JL Holden 21/08/2005

'A' Buttress Unnamed as yet 43m E1 5a * The slabs left of Lemontyde, high up the side of Easy Gully. Start on a grass ledge, 12 metres right of the starting point of Crock's Crawl, beside a cracked recess 1 8m 5a Make a high pull over the bulges left of the belay and continue to a ledge and belay beside a small recess at head height in the wall behind. 2 35m 5a. Just left of the belay, climb directly to a bulge, then pull round its left side and follow a groove above which leads to a crack and spike runner (at a junction with the final pitch of Trident Route). Traverse right below the line of overhangs, using a short ramp for the feet to start, to a spectacular finish through the bulges at the end of the roof. Belay above. A Phizacklea, JL Holden 21/08/2005

Artful Dodger 100m HVS 5a ** A direct line up the steepening slab and wall just left of the Waiting Room overhang. Start at the toe of the Gordon and Craig's slab. 1 46m 5a Climb the centre of the steepening slab with a delicate move across a diagonal crack to gain the centre of a diagonal flake line. Climb a prominent short groove in the steep wall above continuing directly up the headwall to cross Southern Circuit's pitch 2 traverse. A direct line up the more broken ground above is taken, climbing some short cracks to finish on the prominent skyline pinnacle of Arête, Chimney and Crack pitch 2. Belay ledge behind the pinnacle. 2 22m 4b Step up and follow the flake traverse of Arête, Chimney and Crack pitch 3, continue traversing boldly right across a slabby wall for about 10m then up into an overhung scoop. Exit from the left corner and up to

3 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. belay on the Gordon and Craig's traverse. 3 32m 4c Just right of the hanging arête of Abraxas is a right-facing corner, climb it direct and surmount the left end of the overhang above (left of Eliminate A). Continue straight up to finish directly over the last knobbly bulge. Part climbed 27 July 2005 and pitch 2 had been climbed on the 16th July 2005 by John Daly, Dave Hannah and P Bettney. John Daly, Dave Hannah 02/08/2005 Repeated, grade confirmed, escapable ** climbing may mean it may only be worth *

A Grand Day Out 63m E2 5c A long rising traverse of “A” Buttress. Start on the grassy shoulder between Southern Circuit and Balrog. 1 15m 5b Climb the front face of the pillar direct to the Waiting Room ledge. 2 22m 5c Climb the overhanging crack of the Balrog* to where it eases, then traverse right across the wall “above the steep bits” to join Abacus Finish of Abraxas and pull over the roof to reach the belay on Eliminate “A”. (*Phizacklea originally tried to go across to the thread on Abracadabra and move diagonally right from there but had to rest and could not make the final move into Abacus Finish) 3 26m 5b Traverse right, as for pitch 5 of Eliminate “A”, then continue the traverse rightwards just above the big cave, then move right to join Samba Pa Ti at the upper roof. Pull over rightwards, passing the belay of Gordon and Craig’s (at the end of that traverse) and move round the corner. Belay on the upper of two grass ledges (the top corner of Sidewalk is about 10m to the right.) 4 20m 5c Climb the short corner to a rust coloured roof, then swing right awkwardly to a second corner. Layback this to the top, then pull over onto a ledge. An easier slab leads over blocks to a belay. Scramble to the top. A Phizacklea, J Holden 09/08/1997

Staring at the Sun 82m E4 6a A good direct route, the crux being the shallow crease between Abraxas and Isengard. This is fingery and awkward to protect (possibly E5 on sight?). Start as for Abraxas. 1 40m 6a Follow the first pitch of Abraxas to the slab (where that route goes leftwards to belay), then step right into Isengard. Pull up steeply to a good spike (the crux moves of Isengard) then step left immediately and follow a thin flake up to an undercut nose. Pull over the bulge and onto a quartz foothold on the right (good nut - and easy step right to a rest on Isengard at this point). Climb the wall leading to the shallow crease (Rock 4 twisted into a pocket is crucial) where fingery moves lead to a green undercut below the roof (nut out left). Step right into the large groove which leads to the big flake traverse on Eliminate A. Move left to belay. 2 42m 5a Directly above the belay is a roof with a prominent nut slot splitting it. Climb directly past this feature and continue up the slab, pulling straight over the next roof on large holds to reach Gordon and Craig’s traverse. Continue straight up over another roof, until the climbing eases, and belay higher up. A Phizacklea, C Matheson (AL) 19/08/1997

‘A’ Ordinary 55m E7 6c A direct line between Eliminate ‘A’ and Isengard/Samba Pa Ti. Start 2m right of Isengard. 1 25m 5c Climb directly up the short wall to ledges. Weave first right then left between the bulges on the blunt rib below the giant detached flake. Belay. 2 10m 6c From the top of the flake, an explosive start enables the ledge above to be reached. Belay here. 3 20m 6c Follow Samba Pa Ti to the roof. Pull over this and traverse leftwards towards a peg. Powerful and technical climbing above (peg) leads to sanctuary over the bulge. Climb the wall moving slightly rightwards over a bulge into a short finishing corner. C Matheson, R Matheson 10/08/1999

B' Rake of Eye n' Twist of Gob E5 6b Takes a parallel line to Side Walk. Start a short way up Great Gully before the first proper pitch. A very good route comparable in quality to Side Walk. 1 6b Gogarth style climbing! Climb Great Gully first pitch for a few metres to reach a line of flaky undercuts leading out right. Use these with care (crucial Friend 2.5), to reach a hanging groove. which is climbed to the

4 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. first stance of Side Walk. 2 6b Move boldly out right onto the arête hanging over the gully which is climbed via technical face moves to easier ground. Traverse to Roches Perches to belay. 3 5c Climb the first few metres of Side Walk pitch 3 but continue traversing out right to reach a dog-leg crack hanging in a superbly exposed position. Climb this to the stance. 4-5 4b, 5b Finish up Side Walk. Andy Hyslop, Stuart Wood (Alt) 12/08/1997

Great Gully Direct Finish 39m VS 4a Climb the final smooth corner direct. R Graham 02/07/1998

‘B’ Buttress Direct finish to Broadrick's Direct 28m MS 4a From the stance above pitch 2 of Broadrick's Direct, instead of escaping rightwards, climb upwards by short slabs and grooves to grass ledges. Avoid overhanging ground by climbing diagonally rightwards to join the upper part of Giant's Crawl. This variation continues the line of the earlier pitches, but is rather disappointing otherwise. Likely to have been done before. D Wilkinson, G Beckett 14/05/2005

Broadrick’s Direct another finish 30m MVS 4a Follow the Direct Finish but instead of moving rightwards to avoid the "overhanging ground", head up for the hanging left-facing gangway groove on the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Enter this groove over blocks and follow it to the top. This continues the line and grade of the route with the added interest of heightened exposure and doubtful blocks - a must for those who enjoy routes with a mountaineering character I Gray, M Biden 21/09/2014

Kettle Watch 70m E1 5b * Fills the gap between Broadrick's Direct and Misty Mountain Hop. Start up Misty Mountain Hop. 1 32m 5b Follow Misty Mountain Hop to the detached block, stand on this and pull over to Giant's Crawl. Cross this to the belay. 2 33m 5a Step right from the belay, follow a flake crack to its top, and a continue up to a groove to the right of a large pinnacle. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, and follow a crack above (some hollow rock here) to grass and the belay above pitch 3 of Nimrod. 3 15m Pitch 4 of Nimrod. A Phizacklea, JL Holden21/08/2005

Canned Heat 30m E5 6b Start just left of Four Sticks at the overhanging wall. Utilising the obvious undercut make a long reach for a jug and move boldly to a runner on the right hand side of the small overlap. Carry on up the wall above to Nimrod. Move right for a couple of metres (as for Nimrod) until under the obvious overhang. Using a crimp make a long reach to gain jugs on the overhang and a runner. The crux is getting your feet on the jugs. A couple more moves lead to a belay on Giant’s Crawl. Stuart Wood, Andy Hyslop 04/08/1997

Holocaust - Direct Variation E5? 6a/b? Climb directly up the vague arête above the good jug (the normal route trends up rightwards). Rob Matheson, still going strong 31 years after he did the first ascent! Rob Matheson 08/09/2002

Mother Stone E7 6b Takes the much eyed brown scoop/groove just right of Pandora's Box. Start below and just left of an obvious overhang. The climbing is about F7b but the gear is very poor - well that depends how you feel about RP1s bashed into flared slots. The pegs are all knife blades and of body weight quality. Nuts and pegs have been left in place. It is also possible to get a poor stopper under the first overhang and a skyhook next to the finishing hold. Tricky moves lead up to the overhang, then pull left into a short groove which is bridged to a final smeary move out right to a ledge just below the Catacomb traverse. Choice of finishes.

5 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Andy Hyslop, Stuart Wood 07/08/1997

‘B’ Buttress Lower

Giant's Rib 23m VS The short arête to the left of Giant's Corner, using the obvious short flake. First ascent: (22/04/2011) A Phizacklea, J L Holden The Project

The Project left of Issel Roof has been led by Stevie Whitall (ca 2006?) with a vital pre-placed runner and at a French Grade of F7c+ It is thought that it would be E7 (6c) for an on sight.

Russian Roulette 45m E1 5b Start just right of Murray's Route. 1 25m 5b Climb the mossy crack in the arête to reach a small spike, swing right to a nut slot, then pull back left above the bulge to another small spike and good holds. Continue directly to grass; wander up this to belay as for Murray's Route below the cave. 2 20m 5b Climb up to the left-hand end of the cave roof and pull over into a groove (as pitch 2 of Eliminator). Traverse right for 10 metres to the right edge of the wall (very exposed) then climb a short groove to a grass ledge on Woodhouse's Route. The first 10 metres incorporates an old variation to B Buttress Variations called Rock it to Russia (1983), hence the name. Al Phizacklea, J Holden 15/08/2002

Abraham's Covenant 30m E7+ The route tackles the huge overhang/ roof above Abraham's Cave. Arrange some good cams in the breaks and tackle the overhang via some hard moves, then bold moves lead up to some good jugs and the next protection. From the jugs some very hard climbing leads to the wall above. Continue more easily to the belay. See a report at: http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog James McHaffie, Stuart Wood 19/04/2011

The Good Friday Agreement 60m HVS 5a (ish) * Takes the intermittent groove lines between Portfolio and Eliminate B in 3 pitches, 4c, 5a, 5a(ish) As to be expected with this area, it is rather contrived, but has some good climbing on it. A Phizacklea, J L Holden 22/04/2011

Homeland 30m E6 6c From the top of Woodhouse’s Pinnacle, lean across the wall to gain the rightward-slanting crack. Move across this (holds and gear - Alien 0 useful). A long reach up and left gains a good hold and peg runner. Climb the rib above, clipping the peg on Close to Critical on the left. A 6csequence leads to a good hold on Close to Critical. Finish up this. Andy Hyslop, Stuart Wood 22/07/1997

Woodhouse's Arête E6 6b *** Follow the arête above Woodhouse's Pinnacle to Pincher Martin, then straight up. Reported as being one of the best and certainly most spectacular routes on Dow. Grade and quality confirmed by repeat ascents. K Phizacklea, R Matheson 13/05/1998

Jumping Jack Flash E4 6b (ish) Takes the overhanging wall above Hesperus/Shining Path. There is a peg runner on the left. Clip this first, then step back right and attack the wall directly, moving right to pull over (RP low down). Step back left at break (thread) and climb the wall directly to easier ground (the dyno slap for sloper is interesting). Originally recorded as "Scottish VS"! R Matheson, K Phizacklea 28/09/2007

‘C' Buttress

6 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Charmer Variation 20m E3 ** No increase in grade, but improves its quality (2 stars) 3 20m 5a Step across from the belay to the base of a prominent corner (Eliminate 'C' continues to the arête) and climb this to a good nut right at its top, then step down and traverse left on good holds around the arête, to reach the belay on 'C' Ordinary. A Phizacklea, JL Holden 01/06/2007

‘D’ Buttress

Eliminate D 40m VS 4b The route follows a slab to the left of Blizzard Chimney, starting from below the chockstone below The Ampitheatre; clean but sparsely protected climbing. Step left and climb to grass ledges. Bold climbing leads to a blunt spike runner, then slabs above lead to a left- facing flake (runners). Continue to easier rock and the top of D Buttress. A Phizacklea, JL Holden 15/04/2007

The Cage Direct Start 30m HVS 5b The flaky crackline immediately left of the groove of Snibbo is climbed to a ledge. The overhang above is attacked at its weakness to gain the groove of The Cage. K Phizacklea, C Matheson 21/08/1999

Soggy Beer Mat 34m E1 5b This route passes through some impressive ground at the grade but is marred by one stopper move. Small wires are essential. Start 5 metres right of intermediate gully at the Snibbo/Cage ledge. The strenuous crack is climbed to a large ledge. Pass the overhang of The Cage Direct and continue to the first barrier overhang. Surmount this to gain an airy balance position beneath the next overhang. A step left into a corner allows the technically minded to gain the huge jugs at the back of the gangway. Traverse rightwards along this and ascend easier ground to a belay above. C Matheson, K Phizacklea 21/08/1999

Easter Gully Rape and Pillage 30m E5 6a A stunning pitch continuing up the wall where the crux of The Norseman starts. Start from the Bandstand. Follow The Norseman to the rock ledge and do the crux of The Norseman. Where The Norseman escapes left, make a couple of moves right, a brilliant rockover (crux) follows. Finish straight up the wall. Stuart Wood, John Burrell 20/06/1998

‘E’ Buttress

Eureka 12m E2 5b This climbs the short, sharp arête 15 metres right of the base of Easter Gully, well illustrated on the frontispiece of the current Dow guide. Climb the left side of the arête throughout. There are good nuts at the half-way ledge, and a tiny spike to protect the upper crux. Al Phizacklea, John Holden 15/09/2002

New Girdle Traverse (to be named) 315m E2 ** A new Lord of the Rings for Dow? Not quite the same quality, but it contains some brilliant climbing and gobsmacking exposure on A buttress. The longest route to be added on a major crag in The Lakes for over 40 years. Starting as for Necklace Route, big rising traverse above the big cave, harrowing down climbing to belay on Sidewalk Abseil. Cross low on Upper B buttress to join the first pitch of Nimrod, descend Easy terrace; if you left your bags here you can have a pie and a brew, which you can't do on Lord of the Rings.

7 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Traverse low across Lower B Buttress to groove on Murray's Super Direct, belay on Murray's Route. Cross above Abraham's cave and up cross and reverse crux of Abraham's Route B to Giant Grim. Here we admit it would be better to follow the original girdle to Easter Gully, but we abseiled Hesperus to try to find some independence - all a bit artificial. The last pitch climbs the South America crack then follows the wall R of Hopkinson's crack (Easter rising) to finish. Long and tiring, especially for the over fifties. Al Phizacklea, Keith Phizacklea, alt leads 09/06/2016

Associated Crags

Blind Tarn Crag Page: 78

Hummin' on Plums 30m E3 5c Start at the line of overlaps just to the right of Blind Vision. Undercling the overlaps until a long reach left leads to good slopers. Climb the wall directly above then finish as for Goldscope Direct. Stuart Wood 14/07/1997 This route has been recorded but may be similar to Blind Pugh whose description was missed from the guide book and is reproduced below.

Blind Pugh 37m E2 5b Climb the hanging groove left of Sneak until it is possible to make a hard move over the overlap just below the hanging block. Move to the block and continue up the arête to finish. (Brian Davison, Andy Smith 25/04/1987)

Brim Fell, South Crag 267 984 E Page: 79 This crag is about 250 metres NNE of Low Water, and at the same altitude. It is the southernmost crag of a group of crags on the steep heathery hillside which lies above the path between the Pudding Stone and Levers Water. Routes are described from left to right.

Hollow Grooves 15m E3/4? 5c/6a? A bit run out in places and a little loose but good climbing. Start on the far left of the crag, approximately 15 metres left of Jugs of Joy. Climb straight up the obvious groove (the most obvious feature of the crag). Andy Clough 13/07/2006

Caution 15m D Left of Nick's Crack is an undercut wall, the base of which slants up to the left. Start near left side of this wall beneath a clean rib. Step up right and climb past a large unstable block to enter a groove which leads to the upper slabs and the top. Tom Walkington (solo) 20/08/2005

Adventure Wall 18m HVS 4c Start 2 metres right of Caution. Step up one metre on to a small ledge, then move up right for one move. Traverse right for 2 metres (keeping low), then up the wall on big holds. Step left past doubtful blocks, then up to the top. Tom Walkington, Peter Walkington 05/09/2005

Nick's Crack 20m VS 4c The obvious chimney crack at the left side of the overhanging central section of the crag. The crack provides an awkward exit before finishing up rightwards. Nick Evans, Tom Walkington 04/09/2005

Jugs of Joy 20m E4 5c Takes a direct line up the central overhanging section of the crag. Start from slabs abutting against the wall to the right of the undercuts. Climb the short slim groove and wall above to jugs, then continue up past slots to a thin vertcal crack. Climb the crack with a short deviation to the right and back left, following jugs to the top. Sustained and pumpy with good protection, except for a short section at third height.

8 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. First ascent: () Tom Walkington (un-seconded) 04/09/2005

Enter Left 22m VS Climbs the wall just right of the upper basin with an entry from the left above an overhanging lower wall. Start 5 metres right of Jugs of Joy. Climb up 3 metres to a block on a ledge. Move up right into a short groove and step round right on to the wall. Climb straight up via a right -facing shallow corner to the top. Tom Walkington, Peter Walkington 05/09/2005

Flaky Groove 22m VS 4c Start 4 metres right of Enter Left, as for Flaky Chimney. Climb Flaky Chimney for 3 metres then climb leftwards for 3 metres to make an awkward entry into a groove. Follow the groove to the top taking care with doubtful flakes. Peter Walkington, Tom Walkington 05/09/2005

Flaky Chimney 22m VD The wide shallow chimney at the right side of the main wall. Climb the chimney, finishing up to the left. Tom Walkington (solo) 12/07/2005

Fun Slabs 35m M Good clean rock. Start 8 metres right of Flaky Chimney.Climb the water-worn slabs and the short chimney to the left. Continue up an easy runnel for a few metres, then up the slabs to the right. Tom Walkington (solo) 21/08/2005 Triangular Slab 45m VD The next climb takes a triangular slab on the bottom right-hand side of the group of crags on the steep heathery hillside above the Pudding Stone to Levers Water path, as described earlier. From the Pudding Stone, follow the Levers Water path for 400 metres, then skirt left to the foot of the slabs. Start at the base of the slabs, to the left of the lower steep wall. Climb up 5 metres to a grass ledge, then up steeply for 3 metres, just left of a corner to the easy-angled slabs. Follow the slabs by any route to a grass ledge beneath a steep crag. Tom Walkington (solo) 13/09/2005

Timley Knott 284 971 Page: 79 GR: Situated 250 metres above and right of the Walna Scar Road upper parking place for Dow; where the quarry road sweeps rightwards up the Old Man (metal barrier). The Knott consists of pale slabs delineated by an arete on the right. Unusually it's bigger than it looks! Worth a visit when the afternoon chill on Dow becomes too much (as was the case in this instance)! Most, if not all of these routes were claimed by Bill Barnes back in about 1974. He sent the info. to me for inclusion in the Dow guide, but I decided that they were too insignificant to include in the guide. I can't see how an additional 16 years has changed my mind." Alan Phizacklea

Bow Rib 20m D Very pleasant climbing up the arête. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/05/2008

Little Arrow Slab 20m VD Start 8 metres up and left of Bow Rib. Climb the slabs direct, via a small bulge, a scoop and a tiny overlap. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/05/2008

Quiver 9m VS 4b Twelve metres up and left of Little Arrow Slab is a small block buttress with a crack on its left and a ramp on its right. Climb easily to the crack, step right onto the ramp and pull up awkwardly to the top of the block. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/05/2008

Target Practice 10m MS Six metres further left a large block rests against steeper but shorter slabs. Start 2 metres right of the block and climbs over two small overlaps to finish up the rib. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/05/2008

9 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Bullseye 10m MS Step off the block and move up, then step left over the overlap on "juggy" crimps. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/05/2008

The Bell SD 288 977 Page: 82 GR: This crag was first visited by Jeff Wilkinson in April 1999. The upper tier is surprisingly large and has good quality rock, other routes are waiting to be done. Lower down on the left is a large overhanging outcrop which has a number of hard routes on it. Park at the Walna Scar fellgate. Take the Old Man track then branch off right and follow the wall passing a derelict building. Ascend the left flank aiming for the large holly tree at three-quarters height. Walk along grass ledge under this to reach the upper tier.

Ignimbrite 16m E2 5b Start half a metre right of the large block below a good but hollow hold (the block was not used). Climb the steep wall for 1.5 metres then move right to gain the start of the narrow ramp. Move up the ramp to its end at a steep corner-crack. Pull left over the crack to gain a sloping ledge. Move up the ledge and make an easier pull out at the top just left of the continuing buttress. Belay well back. (NB: moving off the ramp reduces the sustained nature of the climb and was not done on the first ascent). J Wilkinson, B Hollowell 20/05/1999 Stuart Wood repeated Ignimbrite and confirmed the grade. He and friends also added several other, harder, routes to the lower tier. Unfortunately we do not currently have descriptions for any of these routes. If you can help fill in the gaps, please email the Editor. Goat's Crag 267 975 Page: 82 Kitten 19m VD A pleasant excursion up the slabby buttress on the left of Goat's Slab and separated from it by a grassy groove. Start 5 metres left of Goat's Slab at the foot of a rib. Climb the rib, and trend leftwards up the clean wall. Avoid the green recess above by following the walls on its right to the top. BJ Clarke, J Buckland 20/04/2009

Level Revel 42m VD The linking of several of the myriad variations to Goat's Slab with an extended finish; gives a nice right to left traverse. Start 7 metres down and right of Goat's Slab and just left of a quartz ledge. 1 22m Climb the slabs slightly leftwards to gain the highest diagonal break. Ascend diagonally leftwards across the fine slab to gain a large stance in the grassy groove. 2 20m Continue horizontally left to gain a V-groove. Move up, and foot traverse the break leftwards until the top can be reached. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009

It's Warm Over Here 16m HS 4b Three hundred metres above and left of Goat's Crag is a wall above a yellow scree slope (GR 268 977). It is characterized by a central mossy streak, with a prominent crack/groove one metre to its left. The rock is rather flaky, but rough and positive. Gain the crack/groove from the right and follow it with interest to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009

Hot Stuff 15m MVS Three metres left of It's Warm Over Here are two rightwards-slanting grooves above a small embedded block in the grass; cairn. Climb the spidery cracks forming the right-hand groove. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009

Warmed Up 15m S The more pronounced left-hand groove. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009

Swelter 9m VS 4c

10 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Seventy metres left of Goat's Slab is a small, but fine slabby wall, with a bridged-block chimney on its left side. Most of the easier lines are well-scratched, but the following two lines may be new. Two metres right of the bridged-block chimney is a small roof at 3 metres. Climb directly past this, and continue up the wall to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009

Sweat It Out 9m VS 5a Start 3 metres right of Swelter. Follow the delicate, white-coloured wall between the two mossy streaks. BJ Clarke (solo) 26/04/2009 Grey Crag

Side Step 26m HVS 5a Twenty metres left of Not Funny is a steep clean buttress, with an overlap at 5 metres. From the lowest point, climb to the overlap, step right, move up with difficulty and step left to footholds above the overlap. Move up leftwards and then continue direct to the top. (A further pitch of 12 metres can be added). This route may have been done before and omitted from the guide, but it is as good as others in this locality, which have been included. G L Swainbank, C Read 17/04/2004

Cove Crag, Upper Left 276 984 Page: 89

Left of the top waterfall of Low Water Beck, a series of steep walls stretches leftwards. The main features are a smooth wall on the left, a heather-topped pedestal in the centre, with a higher amphitheatre to its right and the walls terminate with slabby ribs adjacent to the waterfall.

Water Pipe Arête 18m VS 4c A climb with unsuspected difficulty and seriousness. Start 7 metres up and left of the heather-topped pedestal above a mossy ramp. Stride right across the mossy ramp to gain an obvious shelf on the arête. Follow the left side of the arête, and its shorter continuation, until a quartz-lined slab on the right leads to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 23/08/2008

Water Sprite 32m S Pleasant, straightforward climbing up the most continuous slabby rib adjacent to The Beck. Graded for the bold top pitch, which is avoidable. Start 10 metres left of The Beck at a rib with a perched flake at 4 metres, cairn. 1 22m Climb past the perched flake and continue up the rib to a ledge. Move up and step left to climb a quartz-lined slab, and its continuation, to gain a wide crevassed ledge below a steep wall. (D so far!). 2 10m The right-hand side of the steep wall contains a shallow ramp/groove. Gain it from the right and follow it neatly to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 23/08/2008

Buckbarrow Crag Page: 95

Dark Horse 108m MVS 4b Start below the Grassy Rake at an obvious left to right slanting gangway beneath a steep wall. 1 25m 4b Gain access to the gangway via the initial awkward steep step, and follow it to a small ledge. Climb the short wall to a grass ledge, then move up left to the foot of a steep crack. Traverse left on surprisingly good holds, passing another crack before climbing up to a ledge. Belay at a thread behind a large flat boulder. 2 20m 4b Climb the steep blocky wall above the belay, with an awkward grassy exit. Continue up easily to a round topped boulder on the Grassy Rake. (The start of Pale Horse). 3 20m. Walk up right up the Grassy Rake to belay beneath a deep corner crack, which is 2 metres. right of a small stone wall. 4 15m 4b Climb the corner crack to a ledge beneath a steep wall. 5 18m 4b Climb the open corner to the right of the steep wall. Walk right for 8 metres to below a slab with a thin crack. 6 10m 4a Climb the slab to the top.

11 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington (alt) 16/07/2005

Horse of a Different Colour 90m E1 5c Start 8 metres right of Dark Horse below a vertical crack in a slab. 1 20m 4b Enter the crack from the left and follow it to the start of a vegetated groove. Climb up the rib left of the groove to a slab and then to grass leading up to a belay beneath a steep left facing corner of a pinnacle. 2 10m 5c Climb the corner (hard start) and belay to the right of the top of the pinnacle. 3 20m Scramble up to the Grassy Rake and belay beneath a groove 3 metres left of the small stone wall. 4 8m 5a Make a difficult entry into the groove, then climb up its left slab to reach the arête on the left. Continue up to a grass ledge beneath a steep slab up to the right (poor protection after initial moves). 5 12m 5a A difficult start on to the slab, then move up right to a crack. Move left to gain twin cracks which lead to a ledge beneath a steep wall. 6 20m 5b Start at the centre of the wall and use a crackline to climb up leftwards to a large pocket. Continue up and left to gain a groove-line which leads to the top. Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper (alt) 24/07/2005

Un-named Crag 273 983 Page: 96

This small crag is situated 50 to 100 metres to the right of Buckbarrow Crag.

Scout 25m VD Start at the right side of the buttress. Climb an initial steep wall on good incuts and continue up slabs to the top. Tom Walkington (solo) 15/07/2005

Venture 30m D A pleasant route up the centre of the crag. Start 10 metres down and left of Scout at the lowest point of the crag below a clean wall, cairn. Climb the wall and slab above to gain a terrace. Above are two left-slanting scoops, follow the left-hand one to easier ground, and scramble to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 29/08/2008

Brim Fell, North Crag 272 993 Page: 97 500 metres north of the summit of the fell, the north ridge throws down a jumble of broken crags eastwards into a tarn-less combe. The lowest of the crags comprises an attractive brown-hued slab facing Little How Crag, and only slightly higher.

Rhondda Rib 14m MVS4b Climb the right edge of the slab via a shallow groove. BJ Clarke (solo) 23/08/2008

Blaencwm 15m HS 4a Start 1 metre left of Rhondda Rib at the foot of a mossy groove. Follow a short ramp leftwards, then up the rib and scoop above. BJ Clarke (solo) 23/08/2008

Cwm Bach 13m S Start 6 metres up and left of Blaencwm at a spike.Step rightwards onto the crinkly wall, and follow this and the rib above to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 23/08/2008

12 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Little How Crag Page: 97

Trouble and Strife 41m S Start down and right of Sunshine Arête at a wide left-slanting crack at ground level: this is just right of the arête. 1 20m Climb up into a niche with a dubious flake at its top. Climb straight out of this and up the wall above and through a bulge, some 2 to 3 metres to the right of the arête. Belay on the first grass ledge (good spike 4 metres above the ledge). 2 21m Climb the slab to a higher grass ledge. Climb the short left-facing corner on the right and then break though the bulge via the vague groove above. Stephen Reid, Belinda 'BJ' James, Chris King 23/06/2005

Apples and Pears 42m HVS 5a An eliminate line between Thunder Slab and Thunderclap giving some of the best climbing on the slab. Start in between those two routes. Climb directly up the centre of the slab, crossing the diagonal crackline of Thunder Slab, to gain a thin mossy crack to the left of the short corner of Thunder Slab. Follow this crack and the slab above, and then climb straight through the bulge above on excellent holds to ledges. Traverse 5 metres rightwards to the left-hand crack in the steep wall above and finish up this (crux). The top crack is recorded in the guidebook as an alternative finish to Thunder Slab. Chris King, Stephen Reid, Belinda 'BJ' James 23/06/2005

However the slab has been climbed in many places but routes not claimed, for example D Bodecott sent the following The top part of the main slab on Apples and Pears was climbed by Dave Bodecott and Dave Absalom as a direct to Thunderclap on July 14th, 1996. It is very likely that this had already been climbed before by many others. Likewise, a direct line between Greased Lightning and Thunderclap, both at about HVS. To clarify I have dug out my notes from July 14 1996 and uploaded a diagram - we climbed the three lines indicated 3, 4 and by the arrow - think line 4 was actually climbed further right and may not be marked up correctly. All these surely had been done before anyway.

13 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Great How Crag Page: 101

Copper Dragon 90m E1 5b ** A big mountaineering route with considerable variety and interest. Possibly ***? A classic of the valley. Longer than Nimrod, just as entertaining, but is it as good? Start 8 metres left of Original Route, at the second crack system. 1 18m 4b Climb easily to the foot of the steeper wall, where a fine crack leads up and left to the blocky ledge. 2 14m 4c From the shorter block at the left side of the ledge, pull up into a short steep groove to reach a large ledge. Block belay further back. 3 18m 5a Step right onto the slab to reach a small horizontal break (Friend and nut runner). Climb delicately up and right using the edge of the slab to gain a dank corner. Swing left onto the front face and climb straight up to the crest of an arête. Move up this to a block belay. 4 12m Easily along the ridge and over a pinnacle to belay in the gap (as for Original Route). 5 28m 5b Pull up right to a ledge and block below a smooth steep corner. Climb this to a difficult exit onto a slab on the right, then continue to a grass ledge system. Using a short vertical crack in the headwall, pull right into a recessed scoop and follow this to the top. Al Phizacklea, JL Holden 09/04/2011

14 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Repeated : Not as good a Nimrod but well worth going to do; voted: **

King of the Golden River / The Stones of Venice 25m E1/HVS Two routes added to the short, clean wall up and left of Falcon Crest, one HVS and an E1. I don't have any details to hand. This note has been added to prevent disappointment to any potential first ascensionists who think that they might have found some virgin rock. A Phizacklea, JL Holden 10/10/2010

Red Barrel 46m HVS 5b Start about 30 metres below a short dry stone wall on the descent rake, at the point where the descent rake drops steeply away, right of Trio. An interesting and entertaining route. 1 18m 5b Climb from the right to gain short ribbed slabs which lead to the base of a steep little groove. Bridge up this awkwardly (the crack is often damp) to a large ledge. 2 28m 5a Climb the central groove which has a thin crack in its left wall and some entertaining pockets, to a ledge. Easier slabs lead to the top. Scramble or Abseil down left. Al Phizacklea, JL Holden 09/04/2011

Sunlight Crag Page: 104

Sunday Slab 30m VS 4c Start 5m right of Sunlight Crack. Climb the slab, via a short thin crack. Finish by turning the right hand edge of Dave Hewitt, Mick Cottam 16/07/2000

The start seems to be the same as Var. start to Moonshine; but all this area is mossed over! Starting with Moonshine the routes are coveniently described right to left.

Sunshine 30m D Start just below a huge boulder, immediately left of Kraken Wall. Climb up rightwards on good holds and then step leftwards and follow a rib and pleasant slab to the top. No claim made for a first ascent as very obviously climbed before, probably many times.

Sundae 16m VD Start 4 metres above the huge boulder marking the start of Sunshine, where the slab is guarded by a bulge. Climb a shallow groove through the bulge and continue up the slab. Step right and finish up an arête. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/08/2008

Port Sunlight 16m MS 75 metres left of Sundae, and at a slightly lower level, a fine, slabby buttress rises above a sprawling juniper. Start 2 metres right of the juniper, and gain a rib from the right. Continue directly up the delightful slab to a ledge. Climb the headwall just left of the heathery cracks. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/08/2008 Repeated: Nice rock, gear seemed sparse but I solo climbed. Probably would grade Severe - the flake on the left looks as though it's about to slide off!"

Pebble Beach 14m S 4a Start on a grassy ramp 4 metres above the sprawling juniper. Climb a short awkward V-groove. Continue up the slab, keeping left of the perched flake, to finish up the blunt rib above. BJ Clarke (solo) 15/08/2008

Zebra Wall: 282 996 Page: 104 One third of a kilometre north of Sunlight Crag is a tiny west-facing wall; whose main features are a right- slanting fault and rare vertical striations. The routes are short (repeats suggest more like 5m), fingery and sustained.

Twin Stripe 7m VS 4c Climb the twin crack-line at the right-hand end of the wall.

15 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. BJ Clarke (solo) 27/09/2008

Zebra Crack 11m VS 4b Start immediately left of Twin Stripe and follow the thin crack to a recess. Finish up the steep crack above. BJ Clarke (solo) 27/09/2008

Strite Up 7m HVS 4c Climb nervously directly up the wall between Zebra Crack and Twin Stripe. BJ Clarke (solo) 27/09/2008

Zebra Flake 10m VS 4c Start at the foot of the right-slanting fault, cairn on boulder. Climb the fault to a recess at 4 metres. Reach left and up to gain the flake and follow it to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 27/09/2008

Swirl Strip 9m HS 4b Takes the left arête of the wall. Follow the arête to a ledge, from where a few steeper pulls gain the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 27/09/2008

West Facing Outcrop Of High Weather Crag, Coniston 281 005 Page: 105 Take the footpath from Levers Water to Swirl Hause until the path levels off and turns left. The crag is on the right. In retrospect, the first ascensionist feels that some of these climbs may be over-graded.

Amused to Death 16m E2 5c Start at the left-hand end of the buttress below a crack. Climb the crack, until about shoulder height with the third small overlap. Step right onto the face and move up (crux). Continue to a grass ledge and belay at the back. The wall to the right is unclimbed. J Wilkinson 15/04/1998

16 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

The Bravery of Being Out of Range 16m E2 5c Start at the right end of the buttress. Climb directly up the right edge, passing three pegs. J Wilkinson 16/04/1998

Perfect Sense, Part I 16m VS 4c Start at the base of a corner to the right of The Bravery of Being Out of Range. Climb the corner and then follow the small right branch crack up to a ledge. Step back into the corner and follow the crack line. Continue up to the grass ledge. J Wilkinson 16/04/1998

The following climbs are found to the left of the main buttress on a slab capped by a roof.

It's a Miracle 16m E1 5b Start one metre left of the slab edge. Move up to gain the upper slab. Make a diagonal rising traverse to the right along a blind crack to the slab edge. Climb directly up the edge to a ledge beneath the roof. Pull over the roof at its centre (crux) and continue over loose blocks to a ledge. J Wilkinson 27/04/1998

Three Wishes 16m VS 4c Follow It's a Miracle to the slab edge. Using the obvious fault line as a hand traverse, move left to the centre of the slab. Continue upwards and ascend the crack just left of the main roof. Belay at a ledge. J Wilkinson 14/05/1998

Perfect Sense, Part II 16m VS4c Follow It's a Miracle to the slab edge. Step off the main slab and climb the slab just right of the corner crack. Belay at the ledge. (The grade is reduced to MVS if the main poorly protected slab is by-passed.) J Wilkinson 14/05/1998

What God Wants Part 1 18m E1 5b

17 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Start as for It's a Miracle. Follow It's a Miracle but when the main slab is reached move left along the small foot ledge. Make a couple of moves upwards until one is able to step off onto a grass ledge. Make a pleasant hand traverse right along the obvious break until one metre right of the upper crack (Three Wishes). Pull over the small roof and continue up to a ledge. (The grade is dependent on not using the tempting adjacent rock rib.) J Wilkinson 18/06/1998

Yew Pike Page: 116

Well to the left of Yew Pike, and almost at the "corner" where the fellside turns into the Coppermines Valley, is a shallow gully with a steep headwall and some slabs to its left. The headwall was climbed at E2 (5c) and the cleanest part of the slabs is Severe - not thought to be worthwhile of attention!

Lower Tier - Slabby Buttress

Sunshine Arête 30m VS 4c * A rewarding, and adequately protected companion climb to Sunshine Boys, which follows an independant line up the left edge of Slabby Buttress. Start 2 metres left of Sunshine Boys at a short clean crack. Climb the crack strenuously (crux) for 3 metres, moving up and right onto the left edge of the buttress. Follow the arête in its entirety in fine situations and on good holds. Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham 19/04/2009

Upper Tier Graeme's Cheesecake 35m HVS A bold route with gear well below the crux. Stay cool !! Start 1 metre right of Horn Route, up to a detached block at 6 metres. Move up and right on delicate moves to a tiny spike. Traverse right past this (crux) and up to ledges and finish up the obvious wide crack above. Rob Pugh, Flash Bowra, date of FA is unknown

Rigg Head, Yewdale Page: 118

Wilderness Disco 15m E4 An excellent technical climb up the wall to the left of Trinity Crack. Starting from the grassy ledge, move diagonally left to a Friend placement in the undercut. Move up right (tied off peg). A technical move (Egyptian) gives the crux move to a good handhold. RP behind a dodgy flake!) Another hard move diagonally right leads to better holds (peg). Move left (tied off peg), until it is possible to continue up the arête. A direct finish might be possible. Ian Wilson (un-seconded), 16/08/1997

Hidden Crag Page: 119

The slabby buttress above Hidden Crag gives two routes. The most interesting approach from the valley is to scramble to the start of Crack Behind the Tree above Coniston, then move left onto the hillside and scramble to the start of the routes.

Left Arête 60m D

18 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Rick Graham, Summer 1998 (probably done before)

Central Scoop 60m VD Rick Graham, Summer 1998 (probably done before)

Mart Crag Yewdale Page: 119 The access described in the current guide is not ideal as it encourages visiting climbers to climb dry stone walls. A better approach is:

The Mutant King meets the Humanoid 30m E5 6a Start 12ft left of The Bride. Climb straight up the wall to meet The Bride and runners. Climb up the next short steep wall to the bottom of the very clean stunning arête Rock 2. The arête is taken direct. FA details not known.

Orange Wall Page: 122 The orange wall between Mart Crag and Yewdale Crag containing Allen Exit.

Agent Orange 15m E3 5c. Climb the obvious orange groove on the right of the main overhanging wall. Matt France, Jim Evan 06/08/1994

Dry Cove Area 295 004 Page: 191 The SSE ridge of Wetherlam throws a large broken crag eastwards down into Dry Cove, and south of Steel Edge.

Dry Cove Buttress 175m D Mainly scrambling with a few steeper rises. Start left of centre of the large broken crag, below the cleaner rocks and where large blocks with a small cairn show the way. Follow the right flank of the rib above to below a nose at 30 metres. Avoid this on the left and climb the steep wall above direct. Scramble up to the next step, and climb this by its pleasant left flank. A trough leads leftwards through the rib above. A traverse left leads to a continuation wall; climbed on a series of shelving holds. Easy scrambling and grass leads to the final challenge (optional); a small grey slab, climbed by its right to left fault at VD. BJ Clarke (solo) 13/05/2009

Birk Fell Crag 294 015 P191 As the guidebook suggests this is rather broken. However its left side wall is rather more impressive.

Birk Fell Groove 15m MVS 4b This worthwhile climb takes the left-leaning groove, roughly in the centre of the side wall. Start just left of the left-leaning groove and below an imposing unclimbed wall!. Stride right into the leaning groove and follow it to a ledge. Finish up the grooved arête on the left. BJ Clarke (solo) 13/05/2009

The following climbs are located on a small, but fine outcrop (Edge Crag?), situated on the far (North) side of Birk Fell Hawse at 293 014. A mere 3 metres from the main path as it begins its ascent of Wetherlam Edge in earnest.

19 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Tokta Slab 11m MS The outcrop faces across Greenburn, and despite its northerly aspect, the rock is rough and clean. It can be reached in 50 minutes by a really beautiful walk from the car park at Low Tilberthwaite. There is evidence of previous exploration! Towards the left side of the outcrop a quartz-rippled ramp gives a good descent. Start 3 metres right of this feature. Climb the excellent slab to a finish up the slabby groove up and right. Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo) 22/05/2009

Lamshank 12m HS 4b Start 5 metres right of Tokta Slab, below a quartz-flecked bulging wall. Climb the quartz-flecked bulging wall, and trend slightly right to a ledge. Finish up the grooves just left of the arête. BJ Clarke (solo) 22/05/2009

Wet Wether Groove 11m VD Start on the path 4 metres right of Lamshank, at the foot of two left-slanting grooves. Follow the narrow right- hand groove. Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo) 22/05/2009

Lambency 9m MS Start 2 metres right of Wet Wether Groove, and follow the pleasant shallow groove up the arête on granitic rock. BJ Clarke (solo) 22/05/2009

Nettle Crag 276 966 150 metres right (East) of the first rock gateway on the approach to Dow Crag, a shallow valley rises up the hillside. It contains five crag-lets, each with its own character. The first route is on the brown slab on the right of the shallow valley and a mere two minutes from the Walna Scar track.

Happy Valley Slab 18m D Start at the lowest point of the brown slab on the right side of the shallow valley, and 4 metres down and right of a large embedded, quartz-studded block; cairn. Pick a reasonably direct line up the slab and follow it. BJ Clarke (solo) 10/05/2009

Chuckle 16m VD Start 3 metres up and right of Happy Valley Slab at a smoother, red-hued area of rock. Follow a direct line, keeping to the right of the juniper near the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 10/05/2009

All Green Fun 14m S 4a Sixty metres up the hillside above Happy Valley Slab is a steeper buttress, with a cave at its left end. Climb the short groove above the right-hand end of the cave and step left onto the rib. Follow the green- flecked rib above to the top. Starting at the left-hand side of the cave, the left-slanting groove gives Side Split (12m, D 2009). BJ Clarke (solo) 10/05/2009

Walnut Cracker 12m MVS 4c Start 3 metres right of All Green Fun. Follow the steep wall to an intriguing move to gain the 'holdless' slab. Continue up the slab above. BJ Clarke (solo) 10/05/2009

Dock Groove 12m MS

20 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. The lowest buttress on the left side of the shallow valley (70 metres left of All Green Fun) has a circular shape, with a slabby left ridge flanking an overhanging front wall. Start 2 metres right of the slabby left ridge and follow a rectangular recess and the rib above. BJ Clarke (solo) 11/05/2009

Nettle Wine 14m HS 4a Start 2 metres down and right of Dock Groove. Follow a right-slanting groove to gain a mossy corner at 6 metres. Climb this on its right and continue to the top. BJ Clarke (solo) 11/05/2009

Grasp the Nettle 16m VS 4b Start one metre right of Nettle Wine at a head-height spike. Muscle up to stand on the spike, then move rightwards to follow a series of grooves to gain an easy-angled scoop; up this to finish. BJ Clarke (solo) 11/05/2009

Rash Nettle 12m VS 4c Just above Grasp the Nettle is a slabby buttress guarded by an overhanging wall. Judging by the chalk, a popular bouldering spot! Thirty five metres up and right of this is the final buttress, characterized by a 'blank' slab leading to a bulge. Start at the foot of the 'blank' slab. Gain the large rounded foothold, then step left to climb the thin crack up the left side of the slab. Swarm over the bulge to finish. BJ Clarke (solo) 11/05/2009

Boundary Crag SD 495 326 A small East facing wall of slatey rock, with a small overlap half way up. It looks across the bog to some quarries. The best approach is probably from the large quarry to the west. There are no footpaths, but sheep tracks lead past the odd old workings to the outcrop on the north side of the mini valley.

Rosie's Wall 10m VS 4b Climb the wall directly below the crack running through the overlap and then up on the right-hand side of the crack. H Goodall 09/06/2011

Michael's Wall 9m HS 4a Climb the slab to the right of Rosie's Wall T McCluskey, M McCluskey 20/04/2013

Felltop Crag SD 295 986 From Blue Quarry's upper level, head up the hill to the top of the fence. Once at the top, a large slabby buttress about 18-20m high can be seen to the left. The climbing is all relatively easy and doesn't merit the walk up the hillside alone but, if visiting Blue Quarry, may make a pleasant warm up/down. Gear is not that common, but the simplicity of the climbing makes up for this - the holds are all extremely positive. The crag faces south, seeps in places, but the cleaner patches offer pleasant climbing. Decent is best down a gully to the left (looking at the crag).

Left Arête 10m D The first line on the left of the buttress. Easy and escapable. After an initial tricky pull, womble on up to the top, the main excitement is provided by dodging a bush half way up. H Goodall 14/06/2011

Life's Tuff 10m S Start 4 metres right of arête. A steep start leads to easier ground. Finnish just to the left of the bush cornice. H Goodall 14/06/2011

Moss-Side 16m D Climb the slab right of the obvious heathery crack, to where the vegetation prevents upwards progress. Step right here and climb upwards to join and finish up Take 2. H Goodall 14/06/2011

21 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Take 2 18m VD 5 metres left of Tuff Times is another clean section of slab. Take a direct line to the top past a ledge. H Goodall 14/06/2011

Tuff Times 22m VD The longest and best climb on the crag. Start below the highest point of the crag, left of the large black streak. Climb directly to the top on positive holds. Nice! H Goodall 14/06/2011

Goats Crag North SD 307 005 200m NNW 15 mins This is a small crag (12m to 15m) with several pitches on good rock, from MS to E2; it faces NNW but does dry quickly and gives welcome shade in hot conditions. On the plus side it houses some fine lines and is only 15mins from the road. Approach: Park at Tilberthwaite Gill car park. The approach is about 500m and takes around 15min. Walk back down the road (south east) for approx. 150m to where an obvious quarry track on the right ascends diagonally uphill. Follow this for about 100m, until the track levels out to bear left past a ruined building with a large tree. Follow the undulating track between the spoil heaps for 100m towards a small ruined stone quarry hut, which is passed on your left. The crag lies slightly up and right a 50m further on. There is an easy descent off to the right, and slightly harder one to the left (when facing the crag).

The climbs are described from left to right

Chevre Slab 10m S The obvious slab at the left end of the crag. A committing move from the right gains access to the slab, follow the slab to its apex then step right across the gap onto the main buttress to finish direct. M Scrowston & P C Bennett 27/04/2013

22 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.

Mistaken Identity 10m E1 Start as for Chevre Slab, a very bold pitch. Climb the first few moves of Chevre Slab, but instead of continuing up the slab, step right and bridge up until the arête on the right is gained. Or follow The OW until a step right can be made onto the arête. Follow the edge of the arête to the top. “Mistaken Identity is indeed a mistake and does not seem to exist!" Happy hunting P C Bennett & J Loxham 21/10/2013

The O W 10m MVS 4b Stars at the same point as Chevre Slab but climbs the dirty off width crack in its entirety, moving right at the top to finish. R Graham 26/08/2013

23 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. Antifragile 12m HVS * 2m right is an overhung broken groove. Start directly up this and with a long reach (crux) follow the blunt arête via a short vertical crack (small nuts) to the top, a good pitch. May be worth ** M Scrowston & J Loxham 03/05/2013

Mr Slippyfist 13m HVS4c * 2m further right. A parallel line to Antifragile that accepts the challenge of the obvious jamming crack. Ascend the broken wall by a variety of starts (all climbed by the 1st ascensionists), and trend right to gain the jamming crack, which is followed to the top. M Scrowston & P C Bennett 27/04/2013

The Men Who Stare At Goats 17m E1 5b A fine pitch. Start 2m. left of Summer Equinox at a narrow right facing groove. Climb the groove with difficulty to a junction with Summer Equinox. Step right and follow an ascending traverse for 3m. Pull up to gain the huge perched block. From the top of the block ascend the steep head wall on small but positive holds. Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, Paul C Bennett 26/08/2013 (closely followed by Rick Graham)

Summer Equinox 15m HVS 5a * A fine pitch, Start 3m right of The Men who stare at Goats at a right facing narrow corner. The pitch provides both delicate and strenuous climbing; and is an exercise in technique, but it is adequately protected throughout. Climb the corner (thin), small friend crack on right. Now follow the right edge of an open groove to reach a short layback crack. Ascend this without grovelling (points awarded) to reach the head wall crack on the left. Step left into the crack and climb it with difficulty to the top. P C Bennett & J Loxham 26/06/2013

Heather is not a name it's a plant 14m E2 5c * Starts some 3m right of Summer Equinox at a steep wall below a patch of vegetation. Climb the wall with difficulty (bold) and balance up on small holds until you reach the lip, move right (1st opportunity to place protection). Move up using a small flake for your right hand to gain a jug. Continue up to gain a ledge, from here climb directly up the exposed face to the top. (same finish The men who stare at Goats)! (Really a direct start to The Men Who Stare at Goats, with only 5m of independent climbing) Will Birkett 31/08/2013

The Longest Day 15m E1 5b Starts 4m right of Summer Equinox at a light coloured tapering slab. 5b. Climb the shallow corner/wall to a small overhang (bold & crux), surmount this and follow flake cracks to reach a ledge. Step left and ascend the short rightwards curving crack with interest to the top P C Bennett & J Loxham 21/06/2013

The Taming of the Shrew 13m S * 2m further right again, lies a clean corner slab in centre of crag. Climb the delightful slab, step right onto the slab of Angora to finish. M Scrowston (solo) 13/04/2013

Angora 13m VS * 3m right of the corner lie two obvious cracks starting from mid height. The left crack is Angora. Start from a small recess, and climb the overhung corner. Steep moves up and right for 3m before moving back left into the crack (the original route). A more obvious alternative is to move left into the V groove on the edge to gain the bottom of the crack, which is followed to the top; the grade remains the same. P C Bennett & M Scrowston 01/05/2013

Trogenburg 13m MVS 4b * Start 2m right of Angora. Climb a small protruding pillar of rock then trend up and right into the obvious crack. M Scrowston & P C Bennett 01/05/2013

24 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation. The Shortest Night 10m HS Starts mid way between Troggenburg and Meat on the Ledge. The climbing is only severe, but the upper buttress is bold with sparse protection. Climb the left facing corner to reach the rounded upper buttress. Ascend this delicately on the crest to the top. P C Bennett & J Loxham 26/06/2013

Meat on the ledge 10m MS The clean wall on the extreme right of the buttress and despite the break gives good climbing. Ascend the clean white wall to the ledge, check your feet are dry then ascend the delightful wall/slab to the top. J Loxham & M Scrowston 04/05/2013

Retrograde Motion 15m HVS A good pitch with a well protected crux. Start at an arête 2m left of Men Who Stare at Goats. Gain the arête from the left, follow the rough ridge above to a large ledge. A committing move left gains access to the left slanting crack. Climb it via a small jammed block. Martin Scrowston, Carole Scrowston 13/06/2014

25 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you ar responsible for judging the situation.