PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH LAKE DISTRICT FURTHER INFO

WATCH: WHITE Winter Climbing: Conditions Apply A free to watch short fi lm on BMCTV showing how to identify good winter climbing conditions. GUIDE http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/winter-climbing-conditions-apply ››› Advice for winter climbers READ: North Wales White Guide Reconciling conservation and recreation – winter climbing in Snowdonia. Download a free copy at:

www.thebmc.co.uk/northwaleswhiteguide LAKES WINTER ETHICS

THE GENERAL SITUATION THE AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE LAKE DISTRICT GOOD WINTER CLIMBING CONDITIONS & CONSERVING THE ENVIRONMENT READ: WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD READ: WINTER WINTER CONDITIONS A CODE FOR WINTER CLIMBERS IN CLIMBING THE LAKE DISTRICT Be Avalanche Aware AND THE AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE Lake District Winter Climbing 90% of victims trigger their own avalanche. – the avoidance of damage Don’t become a statistic yourself. Further information on winter climbing ethics Find out more and download a free copy at: in the Lake District. www.thebmc.co.uk/lakeswinterethics http://beaware.sais.gov.uk

winterskills winter ESSENTIAL WALKING AND CLIMBING TECHNIQUES The official handbook of the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate and Winter Mountain Leader schemes winterskills READ: WEATHER FORECASTS

skills ESSENTIAL WALKING AND CLIMBING TECHNIQUES

The official handbook of the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate and Winter Mountain Leader schemes

Mountain Leader Training Handbooks Training Leader Mountain Winter Skills

Packed with essential information and techniques, this handbook is split into sections including: Packed with essential information and techniques ● Winter navigation and equipment ● Winter anchors, belays and for walking and climbing climbing strategies

● Use of the ice axe and crampons ● Security on steep ground, and for all levels of winter rope-work for winter climbing mountaineering ● Coaching winter mountaineering ● Snow safety and avalanche at all levels from novice to evaluation advanced for climbers & walkers, this is Mountain Training’s You can fi nd practical demonstrations of This book is the offi cial handbook of the Winter Mountain Leader many of the tips and techniques described and the Mountaineering Instructor Certifi cate and is a reference tool for in this book on the every mountaineer venturing onto non-glaciated snow and ice. Winter Essentials DVD from the BMC The easy-reference colour-coded pages with striking illustrations and stunning photography is the third volume in the highly acclaimed 3 Volume – offi cial handbook for all winter qualifi cations. series of manuals produced by Mountain Leader Training and has been written by Allen Fyffe and Andy Cunningham, two of Scotland’s most respected activists. thebmc.co.uk

Published by: ISBN 9780954151133

Mountain Price: £19.95 Leader

ISBN: 978-0-9541511-3-3 9 780954 151133 > 11/10 VG 243G Training Written by Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyffe

243g MLTUK Winter Skills 2nd edition_Cover.indd 1 03/12/2010 10:11 www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5464

396d Winter Experience DVD 01/08/2005 01:31 pm Page 1

WINTER ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS WINTER This film shows the essential WATCH: techniques and skills necessary to operate in Britain’s winter mountains.

It follows a group of three winter mountaineers Skills & techniques for the winter mountains and two winter climbers on a day out in the Scottish mountains. We see how they cope with this potentially hazardous environment Lake District Weatherline Mountain Weather Information and what measures they take to ensure they both enjoy the experience and return safely. Winter Essentials DVD Following the film are 11 separate chapters that expand on the messages given in the film and provide additional information: Navigation Self Arrest Clothing and Equipment Crampons Snow Bollards Current Issues Ice Axes Avalanche Awareness Further Information Practical advice on skills and techniques for Reports from fell top assessors who walk up Service (MWIS) Ice Axe Belays Emergency Procedures

This DVD will educate and inspire all who wish to venture into the mountains in winter. Filmed in Scotland, it is relevant ALSO to any of Britain's mountainous regions. The information AVAILABLE and techniques described are equally relevant to winter The official handbook Helvellyn every day during winter to assess Mountain specifi c weather forecast with a of the Winter Mountain climbing, walking and mountaineering in the mountaineers and technical climbers. Ideal for hillwalkers and rock climbers planning to take their first steps in winter. Leader and the Mountaineering The DVD has been jointly produced by the British Mountaineering Instructor Certificate Council, the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Mountain schemes Leader Training England with generous support from the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust. Documentary 40mins approx Technical Chapters 80mins approx real conditions on the ground. summary for all British Mountains and detailed Participation Statement: Climbing, hillwalking and mountaineering are activities with winter mountains. a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of Exempt from classification and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

The BMC, MCofS and MLTE publish a wide range of resources and good practice Cover Photo: Chris Froud advice and provide training opportunities for members. Contact their offices or visit their Artwork: www.v-graphics.co.uk ©2005 websites for further details. www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk forecast information for the Lake District. A Slackjaw Production: www.slackjaw.co.uk http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7045id=7045 www.mwis.org.uk/english-welsh-forecast/LD/ LAKES WHITE 01 GUIDE CONTENTS INTRODUCTION

Winter climbing in the Lake District is fantastic, and despite all too often presenting a fl eeting opportunity given the fi ckle nature of UK weather, can provide some of the biggest adventures and most magical experiences available in this small but perfectly formed corner of England. One of the most important skills in winter climbing is identifying where might be ‘in condition’ given recent weather and once you arrive at your chosen crag, picking a route in suitably wintery condition. 01. INTRODUCTION ...... 3 This is important both from a climbing ethics 02. WHY ARE GUIDELINES NEEDED? ...... 4 perspective, but crucially also to ensure that we 03. TOP TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR WINTER KARMA ...... 6 prevent damage to the rare arctic alpine plants that 04. SENSITIVE LAKE DISTRICT CRAGS ...... 8 can live on the crags we climb on. 05. RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING ...... 22 Q Well-formed water ice on Waterfall Gully, 06. WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD CONDITIONS? ... 30 Pillar Rock. Photo : Adam Marcinowicz. 07. WHERE NOT TO WINTER CLIMB ...... 34 FRONT COVER: Rape and Pillage, Helvellyn. Photo: Steve Ashworth.

2 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 3 LAKES WHITE WHY ARE GUIDELINES NEEDED? 02 GUIDE

Confl ict between winter climbing and conservation is a real possibility. If a route is climbed when its turf is out of condition, WHY ARE the areas inhabited by arctic alpines are sometimes so small that an entire population could be destroyed in one ascent. GUIDELINES The traditional conservation view might have been to ban climbing on any cliffs holding these rare plant species, but the modern approach recognises that this confl ict can be easily NEEDED? avoided by following a few simple guidelines. The Lake District provides an important habitat for a number of rare arctic alpine plants. These have been drastically reduced in numbers over the years through intensive collection in the Victorian era and heavy upland grazing. This means that plant populations are small and the last bastions for these species are on the crags we visit as climbers, where sheep have been unable to graze. Nowhere is this truer than on winter routes, which tend to follow natural drainage lines and turf which provides the ideal habitat for these plants.

R New steep mixed routes are still possible in the Lakes on crags away from the ‘no winter climbing’ list (see inside back cover). The fi rst ascent of Genesis, Green Gable. Photo: Paddy Cave.

4 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 5 LAKES WHITE TOP TIPS 03 GUIDE

DO • Try to be as precise as possible with placements. TOP TIPS TO • Keep an eye on weather Make sure your tools are patterns and forecasts in sharp, where possible the run-up to a winter trip hook rather than hack with IMPROVE YOUR • Make sure turf is frozen your axes and try to avoid solid before you climb on it pedalling your feet • Take care when making • Be fl exible so you WINTER KARMA tool placements in cracks don’t have a wasted day - some very rare alpine in marginal conditions. species grow there rather Banked-out snow gullies, They might not save the world, but they could help protect than on ledges, and can pure ice or non-turfy mixed some of the rarest plants found in UK mountains… be easily damaged or routes might be possible as dislodged by the tearing an alternative. If conditions action of tools in marginal are really poor, why not conditions spend a mountaineering • Check the topos in this day getting some mileage guide for more information in your legs and bagging a R Approaching a crag is a on the location of rare few summits instead? great time to make a fi nal plants assessment of conditions DON’T and your plan for the day. Is • Remember that this ice exposed turf well frozen? Has streaks and smears can • Climb a turfy route if your any snow consolidated? Is hide arctic alpine plants. ice forming? Asking yourself Make sure ice is thick axes rip through turf or these sorts of questions can enough to properly take come out coated with mud help you make decisions on a tool before starting up • Clear out turf-fi lled cracks; which type of route to head for. these types of route they can provide a haven Photo: Steve Ashworth. for arctic alpine plants

6 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 7 PIERS GILL AREA LINGMELL

To the north of Scafell Pike are a series of high altitude gills – Piers Gill, Greta Gill and Skew Gill. The walls of these 2 gills are covered in colourful tall herbs and mountain fl owers.Avoid these gills (incl. the route Pier Review) unless they are banked out or frozen hard.

1

1 Greta Gill III 2 Piers Gill II/III 2 04 First winter ascent of First winter ascent

Photo: Steve Ashworth. Grand Finale, Great End. Grand Finale, Great S Highly sensitive areas for rare plants rare for areas Highly sensitive

living there – if you’re not sure if the turf is frozen, living there – if you’re not sure if the turf play it safe and pick a route elsewhere. details of where we know there are populations details of where we know there are populations plants. of particularly rare species of arctic alpine than Please avoid these areas in anything other the plants hard frozen conditions in order to protect The crag topos on the following pages give The crag topos on the following pages give

KEY: KEY: KEY: GUIDE LAKES LAKES WHITE WHITE CRAGS LAKE DISTRICT LAKE SENSITIVE SENSITIVE 8 1 X SOUTH 1 Great (B) Gully III 2 X 2 C Gully IV 3 WASDALEX 3 D Gully II 4 X 4 E Gully II SCREES

The gully lines between B Gully and E Gully support rich stands of tall herb vegetation. They require a prolonged period of sub-zero temperatures to come into condition and rely on water ice steps forming in order to be climbable. With properly formed ice, there will be no risk 2 of damage to plants underneath, but 1 3 please avoid in thin 4 ice conditions.

not a suitable descent route – it is unstable and full of rare plants. rare of full and unstable is it – route descent suitable a not

II Gully E 6

banked out and hard frozen. Contrary to the winter guide advice, A Gully is is Gully A advice, guide winter the to Contrary frozen. hard and out banked

II Gully D 5

of any winter routes starting from the screes and should be avoided unless unless avoided be should and screes the from starting routes winter any of

IV Gully C 4

A Gully and Seven Pitch Gully contain the most sensitive plant communities communities plant sensitive most the contain Gully Pitch Seven and Gully A

Great (B) Gully (B) Great 3 III

II Gully A 2

NORTH WASDALE SCREES WASDALE NORTH

II Pitch Seven 1

2 1

3 4

5 6

1 X 2 X 3 X 4 X 1 X GREAT END 1 South-East Gully III 2 X 2 South-East Buttress III 3 X 3 Central Gully II Dwarf cornel grows 4 X on ledges half way up South-East Gully. 3

1 2

populations.

catchfl y, one of only two UK UK two only of one y, catchfl

English location of alpine alpine of location English

this crag support the only only the support crag this

Gullies and buttresses on on buttresses and Gullies

HOBCARTON CRAG HOBCARTON 1

1 X

Middle Gully Gully Middle 2 2 X II/III

1 1 Slab and Groove Groove and Slab 3 X II

4 X 2 HELVELLYN 31 X 2 X 3 X 2 1 4SWALLOW X SCARTH

1 Striding Edge I 2 Nethermost Gully I/II 3 Swallow Gully I

NETHERMOST COVE

Both Nethermost Cove North and South support important mountain plants. Nethermost Gully should be avoided unless hard frozen and/or banked out. South of Swallow Scarth, the crags provide habitat for downy willow, black alpine sedge and colourful sheets of

purple saxifrage and moss campion – all vulnerable to damage in poor conditions.

climbed on when not solidly frozen. Please avoid these cliffs in marginal conditions. marginal in cliffs these avoid Please frozen. solidly not when on climbed

These plants are found on some of the best areas for climbing and are at risk if if risk at are and climbing for areas best the of some on found are plants These

England, including the best populations of downy willow and alpine saxifrage. saxifrage. alpine and willow downy of populations best the including England,

The cliffs of this tarn hold a wide range of the rarer arctic alpine plants found in in found plants alpine arctic rarer the of range wide a hold tarn this of cliffs The

RED TARN CRAG TARN RED

1

4

2

3

5

6

Thor’s Corner Corner Thor’s 6 IV

Gully 1 1 Gully 5 II

Gully 1 Buttress Buttress 1 Gully 4 II/III

V-Corner V-Corner 3 1 X III

Wall and Ramp Ramp and Wall 2 2 X III

1 1 Gully 3 3 Gully 3 X III 4 X 3 1 XTarn Crag Gully II I 2 XDollywaggon Gully III 3 XChock Gully IV 2 4 XDollywaggon Great Chimney V 4 1

TARN CRAG & FALCON CRAG These crags provide exceptionally rich habitat for arctic alpine plants. If wanting to climb Chock Gully when turf may not be well frozen, the fi rst pitch (which contains the area of interest) can be avoided by traversing

in along the obvious snow ledge into the deep chimney.

could be completely changed with loss of turf. of loss with changed completely be could

may irreparably damage the routes themselves, which which themselves, routes the damage irreparably may

conditions will not only impact upon rare plants but also also but plants rare upon impact only not will conditions

vegetation. Climbing here is reliant on turf, so marginal marginal so turf, on reliant is here Climbing vegetation.

Two parts of this crag support rich stands of mountain mountain of stands rich support crag this of parts Two 4

3

5 DOLLYWAGGON NORTH CRAG NORTH DOLLYWAGGON

2

1

Dolly Daydream Dolly 5 III

4 4 Acceleration due to Gravity to due Acceleration IV

3 3 Thrash Corner Thrash 1 X IV

2 2 Terminal Velocity Terminal 2 X III

South Gully South 1 3 X II 4 X 1 X 2 X 3 X 4 X 1 2 3

SCRUBBY CRAG

The broken ground below Scrubby Crag is rich 1 Juniper Crack V in mountain species and tall-herb vegetation. 2 Ginny Clegg V

Pendulum Gully is also species rich. 3 Pendulum Ridge III

damage in anything other than perfect conditions. perfect than other anything in damage III Buttress Windy 6

III Gully South 5 faces of the three pinnacles themselves), are sensitive to to sensitive are themselves), pinnacles three the of faces

4 4 IV Gully North The area around Pinnacle Buttress (especially the rock rock the (especially Buttress Pinnacle around area The

3 3 I/II Up Wind

2 2 III Gully Left RAMPSGILL HEAD RAMPSGILL

1 1 I/II Buttress Easy

5

3

4

BUTTRESS

NORTH

BUTTRESSES

PINNACLE

1 X 1 2 X 2

3 X 4 X 6 1 X1 2 X 3 X 2 3 4 X

BLEA WATER CRAG

The bulk of Blea Water Crag supports sensitive vegetation. If the icefalls are in climbable condition, then it is unlikely you 1 Blea Water Cleft IV will damage any rare vegetation. It they have not formed well 2 Blea Water Icefall III

then it is best to avoid attempting routes in this cove. 3 Birkett’s Gully II/III

these areas unless they are banked out and frozen hard. frozen and out banked are they unless areas these IV Edge Hutaple West 3

IV Gully Curving 2 West Hutaple Gully (incl. within the gully itself). Please avoid avoid Please itself). gully the within (incl. Gully Hutaple West

VIII Amphitheatre The 1 The rare Scrubby Cinquefoil grows on ground to the right of of right the to ground on grows Cinquefoil Scrubby rare The

HUTAPLE CRAG HUTAPLE

3 1 X 1

2 X 3 X 2 4 X LAKES WHITE RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING 05 GUIDE

WHAT GROWS HERE?

RARE PLANTS Summer on the Lake District cliffs can be a spectacular show of fl owering mountain plants; a burst of pink campion, a purple patch of saxifrage, a yellow splash of globefl ower or a shady corner of & WINTER ferns. The Lake District is the English stronghold for these arctic alpine plants which thrive in the cold and harsh conditions of the CLIMBING high fells, the damp gullies and north-east facing coves. The saxifrages, alpine catchfl y, moss campion and alpine cinquefoil cling to the cliffs, rooting in small cracks and pockets. Many of these plants have tiny populations, a result of Victorian collecting followed by more recent heavy sheep grazing. The alpine saxifrage for example is only found in two locations and there are only 10 plants in England. Cracks and crevices are also home to mountain ferns. Holly fern (with tiny prickles) and oblong woodsia are the rarer types, but the shady cliffs and gullies are ideal habitat for ferns and many different types thrive here. Where the soils are deeper on large ledges or at the foot of cliffs, taller herbs crowd together in colourful stands. These look like Pennine hay meadows and have a similar species mix with geranium, globefl ower, lady’s mantle and wild angelica. R Mossy saxifrage - characteristic These are very attractive to sheep and are best seen on of seepages and gully lines. ground too steep to graze. Photo: Simon Webb.

22 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 23 RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING 05

Steep ground is often covered with heathers and bilberry. These grow here as they are heavily grazed (especially in winter) on the more accessible slopes. Much of the heathland vegetation on crags is a colourful mixture of bell heather, ling, bilberry, crowberry and cowberry. There are also more trees on the cliffs than on the open fell. R Alpine hawkweed, an incredibly rare species found on Rampsgill R Purple saxifrage - found on Twisted junipers and stunted mountain ash are the most Head and V-Corner, Helvellyn. Helvellyn, Scafell and in widespread. Mountain willows are rare with the Helvellyn Photo: Simon Webb. Wasdale. Photo: Simon Webb. coves supporting the only English location for downy willow – a small bush with downy white undersides to its leaves. Climate change will be a future threat to these plants, as well as to winter climbing. Mountain plants do have the capacity to thrive in north and east facing cliffs, but their small populations are vulnerable and need our respect.

R Well banked out gullies can be a great option if temperatures haven’t been R Alpine catchfl y - one of the low enough to freeze turf. rarest species of arctic alpine Photo: Steve Ashworth found only on Hobcarton Crag R Mountain avens - found on in England and one location in Helvellyn and in Wasdale. Scotland. Photo: Jean Johnston. Photo: Jean Johnston.

LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 25 05 RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING SECTION HEADING XX

HOW CAN I LIMIT MY IMPACT?

When it comes to the ecological effect of winter climbing, the good news is that if we’re careful and climb only in well-frozen conditions, we can have virtually no impact on vegetation. The topos featured in this guide highlight areas of Lakeland crags which are particularly ecologically sensitive. The highlighted areas should be avoided in all but rock-solid frozen conditions. Turf is a precious resource on any crag in the Lakes, whether it contains rare species of arctic alpine plant or not. From a climber’s perspective, it is important to conserve turf as it often makes a route possible at a given grade; if removed it may never form properly again. Climbing on turf that is frozen solid will make your climbing experience far more pleasant, reducing those heart-in-mouth, will it/won’t it rip moments, and preventing damage to turf or the plants that live in it. Conversely, making placements in unfrozen or semi-frozen turf is likely to lead to picks and crampons ripping through, damaging the plants that hold it together or possibly tearing it off completely. R Turf fi lled cracks can be a haven Climbing ice routes that are in good, fat condition, or banked for rare plants, but providing out with neve will have no impact on vegetation as the ice will they are only climbed in well cover any plants that may live in the drainage line. Care should frozen conditions, virtually no be taken if these sorts of routes are particularly thin however, damage will be caused. Francis or where mixed routes cross thin ice smears. Blunt enjoying solid sticks on Rape & Pillage, Hellvellyn. Photo: Steve Ashworth.

26 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 27 S The bed and walls of gullies can provide great habitat for arctic alpine plants, but under bomber conditions like these found on the classic Great End route Central Gully Left Branch, there is no risk of damage due to a RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING 05 good depth of solid snow and ice. Photo: Steve Ashworth. WHAT DOES ‘IN CONDITION’ REALLY MEAN?

Just because a crag is white with rime ice and looks wintery doesn’t always mean the turf will be fully frozen. Rime can form relatively quickly given the right weather conditions, whereas turf will often take several days to properly freeze. Snow can sometimes act as a blanket and insulate the underlying turf, preventing it from freezing if there hasn’t been a cold spell before it snowed. This isn’t a problem in banked- out gullies, where the snow itself is climbed and its thickness provides protection to anything underneath. On face routes though, where snow collects on vegetated ledges (which often provide crucial turf placements), it’s important to check before setting off on your big lead. A good assessment of whether turf is frozen or not can often be made as you approach the crag by testing both exposed and snow covered ground at the base of the crag with an ice tool. When swinging an axe into well frozen turf, you’re looking for a good solid stick similar to swinging into plastic ice. When you remove the pick it should come out clean and free of any soil. If this doesn’t happen or you are in any doubt about the conditions, choose a different objective.

28 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 29 LAKES WHITE WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD CONDITIONS? 06 GUIDE

The lower hills and proximity to the coast mean winter conditions in the Lake District are more fi ckle than in Scotland. The climbing WHEN AND season can lie anywhere between October to April; usually the coldest point of the winter occurring in late January. In fact, good conditions are unlikely before New Year. Until then rarely will there WHERE TO have been enough cold days to freeze the ground thoroughly and any snow which does fall soon melts. While the presence of snow is a must for winter climbing, its FIND GOOD presence alone is not enough. A dump of fresh snow on unfrozen ground merely insulates the soil below and slows down the freezing process. Several days of cold temperatures prior to snowfall are the CONDITIONS? best indicator that conditions may be suitable on the fells. The hills may often be covered with a coating of fresh snow and take a few days to consolidate through a freeze-thaw cycle to become suitable for climbing. It takes a prolonged period of snowy wintery weather to fi ll gullies with the snow necessary to build up really good conditions. During this period crags exposed to the wind are likely to be better frozen. Water ice and turf can freeze to give good climbing after only a few days of hard frosts or a longer period of sub-zero temperatures. It is important that overnight temperatures have been regularly dropping below zero. A limited thawing during the day is desirable, as long as it freezes again the next night. This process builds up the ice R You don’t always have to venture abroad for thickness more quickly. Buttress and mixed routes usually come steep ice – sometimes Scafell can come up into condition more readily than snow gullies and the more reliable with the goods too. Photo: www.edluke.com. nature of this style of climbing has helped to increase its popularity.

30 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 31 WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD CONDITIONS? 06

When choosing a venue, altitude and aspect are crucial. North Finally, there are many waterfalls and gills that will freeze given or east facing crags tend to receive limited sunshine allowing a suffi ciently prolonged cold period. Some high falls such as snow cover to build. Hence north-east facing Great End is Newland’s Hause and Low Water Beck come into condition one of the most reliable crags for collecting snow and tends relatively quickly. Even these take about a week of sub-zero to retain it for longer than most other areas in the Lakes. The night-time temperatures to form, others will take longer. Helvellyn coves, while slightly less reliable, can be better if the Strangely enough, for the weepier sort of ice climbs, periods wind has recently been from the east. In winter, a prevailing of intense cold aren’t necessarily ideal as the water may freeze easterly usually heralds cold air that helps to freeze turf and in the ground; better to have a slight thaw during the day and a form water ice, but it often does not bring much chance of refreeze at night allowing a build-up and thickening of the ice. snow. Thus, areas such as Blea Water near Haweswater, which readily form water ice, can be a good choice if it has been cold and dry. In general, if the wind has been from the east then it is often better to choose a cliff on the east side of the district with an easterly aspect to it. Winds from the west or south-west are more likely to carry snow and bring buttresses and gullies into condition. Scafell is high enough for it to often rime up with a westerly wind even if snow has not fallen. Gable Crag is another reliable venue in such conditions. Areas close to the sea, such as Dow Crag, are greatly affected by milder coastal winds, and are seldom worth considering unless circumstances are exceptional.

P Snow falling on unfrozen ground can insulate turf despite low temperatures. With deep snow cover, gully lines can be a good option as the depth of snow will protect any plants underneath and exposed turf is more likely to be frozen.

32 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 33 Armathwaite

EDEN VALLEY

B6413 to Carlisle 20km B5299 Aspatria miles 2 4 6 8 10 A6 M6 LANGDALE B5299 B5305 Lazenby WINTER CLIMBING ETHICS: kilometres 6 8 10 A596 B6412 Caldbeck • Raven Crag, Walthwaite B6413 Maryport A594 Eden Valley & WHERE NOT TO CLIMB • Scout Crags: Lower, Middle and Upper A595 South Lakes North THE NORTHERN FELLS espite a large number of excellent winter accelerate damage to the rock and a slight • Raven, East Raven & Far East Raven Crags 41 Bassenthwaite A686 • Gimmer Crag: South-East Face to Cockermouth Penrith Droutes, the Lake District is predominantly covering of snow or rime will not protect A66 Skiddaw a rock climbing area. This is evidenced by it. In the case of harder rock routes, even a North-West Face (inclusive) Workington Bassenthwaite A591 40 Lake Blencathra a far greater number of routes, participants small number of winter ascents could render B5292 • Flat Crag: Conditionalist to BB Corner A66 A66 and climbable days for rock climbing them unclimbable in both summer and A595 (excluding those routes) Keswick B5320 compared to the same for winter climbing. winter through damage to crucial holds or A5086 A592 Pooley B5322 Lowther • Black Crag Braithwaite Bridge A6 Of course, there are many excellent winter gear placements. A5091 ButtermereLANGDALE & St Bees Borrowdale climbs which take the same line as high • Lightning Crag Loweswater Ullswater Appleby Crummock Water quality rock routes. Their fi rst ascents form There are many crags and buttresses in • Long Crag Thirlmere M6 Whitehaven BUTTERMERE NEWLANDS a valued part of the rich history of winter Cumbria which give superb winter climbing. Cleator Buttermere Patterdale Haweswater Moor B5289 climbing in the Lake District. However, high However those listed below have been ST BEES HEAD Ennerdale Bridge Shap Ennerdale BORROWDALE quality rock climbs are a fi nite resource agreed as rock climbing only venues by a GABLE & PILLAR ENNERDALE GRISDALE Water THRESHWAITE 39 A591 which once damaged cannot be replaced. meeting of both summer and winter Lakes Egremont Seathwaite SWINDALE activists and should not be climbed on with • Kern Knotts: Cat Wall to the Cracks Area DOVEDALE Inevitably climbing a quality rock pitch with axes and crampons due to the high quality (inclusive) Grasmere Eastern Crags ice axes and crampons will considerably rock climbing found on them. WASDALE LANGDALE • The Napes: Tophet Wall & all major GableLANGDALE & Pillar SCAFELL Wast Water B5343 38 Langdale Ambleside buttresses except gullies Gosforth Skelwith BORROWDALE BUTTERMERE & ST BEES • Gable Crag: Engineer’s Chimney to ESKDALE Bridge Seascale A592 A6 Holmbrook Eskdale B5286 Windermere Engineer’s Slabs (excluding those routes) Scafell & Wasdale Green • Reecastle • Grey Crag B5285 • Shepherd’s Crag • St Bees Coniston A591 • Black Crag SCAFELL & WASDALE DUDDON Eskdale & Duddon Ulpha Coniston Kendal 37 Sedburgh • Quayfoot Buttress Water A5074 EDEN VALLEY & SOUTH A595 • Scafell, East Buttress: all routes except A593 A5084 • Woden’s Face Windermere

LAKES LIMESTONE obvious ice & turf lines A592 Eden Valley & • Bowderstone Crag Broughton in Furness Newby Bridge CHAPEL South Lakes • Scafell: Moss Ghyll to Botterill’s Slab HEAD • Sergeant Crag Slabs • Everything except High Cup Nick & SCAR (excluding those routes) established waterfalls A5092 Greenodd 36 A590 A595 EASTERN CRAGS Kirkby ESKDALE, DUDDON Millom Ulverston Lonsdale DOW, COPPERMINES It should be stressed A6 • Castle Rock of Triermain that crags not on this • All the low lying crags in Duddon & Eskdale A590 A65 • Raven Crag, Thirlmere & SLATE list still need to be in Dow, Coppermines & Slate unless via obvious ice lines • Raven Crag, Threshthwaite Cove appropriate winter • Dow Crag: A and B Buttresses • Esk Buttress: from Gargoyle Groove to condition in order to Barrow- A5087 • Dove Crag: North Buttress In-Furness Carnforth 35 (not including the gullies) Trespasser Groove (inclusive) avoid damage to arctic MORECAMBE BAY alpine plants. M6

A683 Morecambe 34

Lancaster