PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH LAKE DISTRICT FURTHER INFO WATCH: WHITE Winter Climbing: Conditions Apply A free to watch short fi lm on BMCTV showing how to identify good winter climbing conditions. GUIDE http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/winter-climbing-conditions-apply ››› Advice for winter climbers READ: North Wales White Guide Reconciling conservation and recreation – winter climbing in Snowdonia. Download a free copy at: www.thebmc.co.uk/northwaleswhiteguide LAKES WINTER ETHICS THE GENERAL SITUATION THE AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE LAKE DISTRICT GOOD WINTER CLIMBING CONDITIONS & CONSERVING THE ENVIRONMENT READ: WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD READ: WINTER WINTER CONDITIONS A CODE FOR WINTER CLIMBERS IN CLIMBING THE LAKE DISTRICT Be Avalanche Aware AND THE AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE Lake District Winter Climbing 90% of victims trigger their own avalanche. – the avoidance of damage Don’t become a statistic yourself. Further information on winter climbing ethics Find out more and download a free copy at: in the Lake District. www.thebmc.co.uk/lakeswinterethics http://beaware.sais.gov.uk winterskills winter ESSENTIAL WALKING AND CLIMBING TECHNIQUES The official handbook of the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate and Winter Mountain Leader schemes winterskills READ: WEATHER FORECASTS skills ESSENTIAL WALKING AND CLIMBING TECHNIQUES The official handbook of the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate and Winter Mountain Leader schemes Mountain Leader Training Handbooks Winter Skills Packed with essential information and techniques, this handbook is split into sections including: Packed with essential information and techniques ● Winter navigation and equipment ● Winter anchors, belays and for walking and climbing climbing strategies ● Use of the ice axe and crampons ● Security on steep ground, and for all levels of winter rope-work for winter climbing mountaineering ● Coaching winter mountaineering ● Snow safety and avalanche at all levels from novice to evaluation advanced for climbers & walkers, this is Mountain Training’s You can fi nd practical demonstrations of This book is the offi cial handbook of the Winter Mountain Leader many of the tips and techniques described and the Mountaineering Instructor Certifi cate and is a reference tool for in this book on the every mountaineer venturing onto non-glaciated snow and ice. Winter Essentials DVD from the BMC The easy-reference colour-coded pages with striking illustrations and stunning photography is the third volume in the highly acclaimed – Volume 3 offi cial handbook for all winter qualifi cations. series of manuals produced by Mountain Leader Training and has been written by Allen Fyffe and Andy Cunningham, two of Scotland’s most respected activists. thebmc.co.uk Published by: ISBN 9780954151133 Mountain Price: £19.95 Leader ISBN: 978-0-9541511-3-3 9 780954 151133 > 11/10 243G VG Training Written by Andy Cunningham and Allen Fyffe 243g MLTUK Winter Skills 2nd edition_Cover.indd 1 03/12/2010 10:11 www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5464 396d Winter Experience DVD 01/08/2005 01:31 pm Page 1 WINTER ESSENTIALS WINTER ESSENTIALS This film shows the essential WATCH: techniques and skills necessary to operate in Britain’s winter mountains. It follows a group of three winter mountaineers Skills & techniques for the winter mountains and two winter climbers on a day out in the Scottish mountains. We see how they cope with this potentially hazardous environment Lake District Weatherline Mountain Weather Information and what measures they take to ensure they both enjoy the experience and return safely. Winter Essentials DVD Following the film are 11 separate chapters that expand on the messages given in the film and provide additional information: Navigation Self Arrest Clothing and Equipment Crampons Snow Bollards Current Issues Ice Axes Avalanche Awareness Further Information Practical advice on skills and techniques for Reports from fell top assessors who walk up Service (MWIS) Ice Axe Belays Emergency Procedures This DVD will educate and inspire all who wish to venture into the mountains in winter. Filmed in Scotland, it is relevant ALSO to any of Britain's mountainous regions. The information AVAILABLE and techniques described are equally relevant to winter The official handbook Helvellyn every day during winter to assess Mountain specifi c weather forecast with a of the Winter Mountain climbing, walking and mountaineering in the mountaineers and technical climbers. Ideal for hillwalkers and rock climbers planning to take their first steps in winter. Leader and the Mountaineering The DVD has been jointly produced by the British Mountaineering Instructor Certificate Council, the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Mountain schemes Leader Training England with generous support from the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust. Documentary 40mins approx Technical Chapters 80mins approx real conditions on the ground. summary for all British Mountains and detailed Participation Statement: Climbing, hillwalking and mountaineering are activities with winter mountains. a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of Exempt from classification and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. The BMC, MCofS and MLTE publish a wide range of resources and good practice Cover Photo: Chris Froud advice and provide training opportunities for members. Contact their offices or visit their Artwork: www.v-graphics.co.uk ©2005 websites for further details. www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk forecast information for the Lake District. A Slackjaw Production: www.slackjaw.co.uk http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7045id=7045 www.mwis.org.uk/english-welsh-forecast/LD/ LAKES WHITE 01 GUIDE CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Winter climbing in the Lake District is fantastic, and despite all too often presenting a fl eeting opportunity given the fi ckle nature of UK weather, can provide some of the biggest adventures and most magical experiences available in this small but perfectly formed corner of England. One of the most important skills in winter climbing is identifying where might be ‘in condition’ given recent weather and once you arrive at your chosen crag, picking a route in suitably wintery condition. 01. INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................... 3 This is important both from a climbing ethics 02. WHY ARE GUIDELINES NEEDED? ................................................. 4 perspective, but crucially also to ensure that we 03. TOP TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR WINTER KARMA ............ 6 prevent damage to the rare arctic alpine plants that 04. SENSITIVE LAKE DISTRICT CRAGS .............................................. 8 can live on the crags we climb on. 05. RARE PLANTS & WINTER CLIMBING ......................................... 22 Q Well-formed water ice on Waterfall Gully, 06. WHEN AND WHERE TO FIND GOOD CONDITIONS? ... 30 Pillar Rock. Photo : Adam Marcinowicz. 07. WHERE NOT TO WINTER CLIMB ..................................................... 34 FRONT COVER: Rape and Pillage, Helvellyn. Photo: Steve Ashworth. 2 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 3 LAKES WHITE WHY ARE GUIDELINES NEEDED? 02 GUIDE Confl ict between winter climbing and conservation is a real possibility. If a route is climbed when its turf is out of condition, WHY ARE the areas inhabited by arctic alpines are sometimes so small that an entire population could be destroyed in one ascent. GUIDELINES The traditional conservation view might have been to ban climbing on any cliffs holding these rare plant species, but the modern approach recognises that this confl ict can be easily NEEDED? avoided by following a few simple guidelines. The Lake District provides an important habitat for a number of rare arctic alpine plants. These have been drastically reduced in numbers over the years through intensive collection in the Victorian era and heavy upland grazing. This means that plant populations are small and the last bastions for these species are on the crags we visit as climbers, where sheep have been unable to graze. Nowhere is this truer than on winter routes, which tend to follow natural drainage lines and turf which provides the ideal habitat for these plants. R New steep mixed routes are still possible in the Lakes on crags away from the ‘no winter climbing’ list (see inside back cover). The fi rst ascent of Genesis, Green Gable. Photo: Paddy Cave. 4 LAKE DISTRICT - WHITE GUIDE 5 LAKES WHITE TOP TIPS 03 GUIDE DO • Try to be as precise as possible with placements. TOP TIPS TO • Keep an eye on weather Make sure your tools are patterns and forecasts in sharp, where possible the run-up to a winter trip hook rather than hack with IMPROVE YOUR • Make sure turf is frozen your axes and try to avoid solid before you climb on it pedalling your feet • Take care when making • Be fl exible so you WINTER KARMA tool placements in cracks don’t have a wasted day - some very rare alpine in marginal conditions. species grow there rather Banked-out snow gullies, They might not save the world, but they could help protect than on ledges, and can pure ice or non-turfy mixed some of the rarest plants found in UK mountains… be easily damaged or routes might be possible as dislodged by the tearing an alternative. If conditions action of tools in marginal are really poor, why not conditions spend a mountaineering • Check the topos in this day getting some mileage guide for more information in your legs and bagging a R Approaching a crag is a on the location of rare few summits instead? great time to make a fi nal plants assessment of conditions DON’T and your plan for the day. Is • Remember that this ice exposed turf well frozen? Has streaks and smears can • Climb a turfy route if your any snow consolidated? Is hide arctic alpine plants. ice forming? Asking yourself Make sure ice is thick axes rip through turf or these sorts of questions can enough to properly take come out coated with mud help you make decisions on a tool before starting up • Clear out turf-fi lled cracks; which type of route to head for. these types of route they can provide a haven Photo: Steve Ashworth.