No 162 Dow Crag star 1 2 3 Dow Crag 163 Mod to S - 1 1 4 Dow Crag is the southernmost of the 's big cliffs and also one of its most popular. The crag is HS to HVS - - - 5 composed of five or so huge buttresses split by deep

Langdale E1 to E3 - - 4 4 gullies and crossed by some noticeable slanting terraces. This can make identification of the routes on first E4 and up - - 2 7 Langdale acquaintance quite tricky, although a good look at the cliff from Goat's Water on the approach will help identify the major features. The climbing appeals to all abilities - few crags can offer such a range from classic Diffs and Severes, to top end E5s and E6s. Most of the routes are multi-pitch, although for the

Coniston and harder lines the difficulties tend to be only focussed on a single pitch. The routes see plenty of traffic on the whole and the rock is excellent, with good (if not always plentiful) protection options.

Lad Stones Coniston and Duddon Valley and Duddon Coniston

Burnt Crag Pudding p.180 Stone Boulder

Eskdale and WasdaleEskdale Far Hill Crag p.176 Coniston

The (803m) Eskdale Eskdale and Wasdale Dow Crag Track to quarry GPS 54.363577 -3.096269 scan for map for scan Ennerdale and Buttermere Turner Hall Farm track A 593 Seathwaite

White Maiden (608m) Lake Coniston 2km Ennerdale and Buttermere Ennerdale

Approach From the centre of Coniston, follow the road up the hill signed towards 'Coniston Old Man'. This leads to parking at Walna Scar - do not drive up the Walna Scar track beyond the

Borrowdale parking area. Walk along the Walna Scar track for 1.7km, passing two small rock cuttings, to a path on the right. Take the path for 1.7km to Goat's Water. Go around the left side of

the tarn over boulders, then take a steep path up the scree slope to below the cliff. It is Borrowdale also possible to approach from the Duddon Valley by picking up the Walna Scar track near Seathwaite.

Conditions Dow Crag's relatively amenable approach walk and quick-drying nature make it a more The Eastern reliable venue than some of its higher and more remote counterparts. The crag gets sun from first light until early afternoon, although the climbs on the lower section of 'B' Buttress A leader reaching the end of the major difficulties stay in the sun for a little longer. Many of the routes are quick drying, although those on the of the technical wall climbing on Pink Panther shaded gully walls and deep in recesses take longer to come into condition. In cooler windy (E2) - p.171 -'B' Buttress, Dow Crag. This route is Fells Eastern The on the lower section of 'B' Buttress, which has some weather, Dow Crag can be a very cold spot. outstanding climbs that are quick drying and sunny until late in the afternoon. Photo: Mark Glaister

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 165 p.174 Easter Gully Easter Dow Crag Dow

p.172 p.173 'C' Buttress Woodhouse Pinnacle Woodhouse Descent Easy Terrace Easter Gully up scree from Goat's Water Approach to 'B' Buttress, 'C' Buttress and box Rescue Mountain Descents right heads of past the out) (looking walk of the crag, the top - From Descent Rake South which brings descend South Rake, here From a depression. to Gully and Easy Gully Great base of 'A' Buttress. the to down you or, the summit to scramble either - Upper, of 'B' Buttress the top - From Terrace Easy advised). (rope - Lower of 'B' Buttress the top out) to (looking left down descend/scramble section is This between of 'B' Buttress. down then leads the two halves Terrace The Easy Gully. and Easter Buttress 'C' for also the descent Great Gully Great Do not descend 'B' Buttress - Lower p.170 'B' Buttress - Upper p.168 p.166 'A' Buttress Easy Gully Do not descend

scree from Goat's Water Goat's from scree Approach Buttress to 'A' up Dow Crag Dow Rake South descent 164 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 167 E2 5b E2 5b VS 4c

slΩ 4sΩ tsΩ 2 3 Dow Crag Dow ...... Buttress 'A' ...... Side Walk . Ti Pa Isengard/Samba Eliminate 'A' 5b, 14m. Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle then the smooth corner to a ledge and belay. 5a, 9m. Take 5b, 10m. Move out right and up a difficult wall and corner up right then left past large blocks to a stance 4b, 20m. Work 5a, 25m. Climb the groove and corner to below an overhang, , 9m. Climb the corner and then move right to a stance corner and then move right 4b, 9m. Climb the and steep line leftwards up the slab a rising 5b, 32m. Take right end of the roof. Pull 5b, 30m. Climb up to below the short corners and walls to 4b, 30m. Climb direct up cracks, left 4b, 12m. Climb up the arete until it is possible to traverse to 4b, 20m. Head rightwards up a scoop and shallow grooves 4c, 12m. Make an exposed traverse left across a wall and 4a, 12m. Head up the wide crack leftwards under the roof, 4c, 16m. Move out right on a slab under a bulge to an open 4b, 24m. Move left and climb a groove to below an overhang, Arete, Chimney and Crack. FA. H.S.Gross, G.Batersfield 17.6.1923 H.S.Gross, G.Batersfield FA. 7 An intimidating gully wall climb that needs dry conditions and Gully care with the rock on its two upper pitches. Start in Great at a large boulder/pinnacle. 1) not be make a committing pull up left to a corner and ledge. Do tempted to go left before standing on the pinnacle. 2) 3) (next to a dog-leg crack) to a stance. 4) and belay under a big corner/groove. 5) then take a crack out leftwards to finish. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. L.Brown, B.Stevens 6.4.1960 FA. 5 of the right-hand side through the positions Space-walking initial pitch. The combined with an interesting central roof are second pitch E1. E2 part of the route and the third pitch is the of Great Gully. corner on raised ledges left Start at a short 1) and belay. 2) to the left end of a this Step left to a crack. Take wall to a ledge. follow the slab and Pull over the overhang and long overhang. stance and belay under the massive crack above rightwards, to a central roof. 3) Move up and then pull right and over to a short corner/groove. above. Climb direct up the wall, up past a bulge to gain the wall on its right, then head leftwards passing a final smaller overhang ledge. to a stance/belay on a good 4) easy ground. (Isengard) L.Brown, A.McHardy 4.1962 FA. A.Hyslop, R.O.Graham 20.8.1977 (Samba Pa Ti) FA. 6 ranks as one of the UK's best A tremendous expedition that Start on a and positions spectacular. VSs. The climbing is varied raised ledge left of Great Gully. 1) to a belay on a grassy ledge. 2) below a corner/groove (ledge on right). Climb the corner/groove belay. until a traverse right can be made to reach a stance and 3) the ledge until moves around a rib gain a slab and belay below large roof. 4) then pull up to a recess and belay on blocks just above. 5) traverse groove. Climb the groove that leads up to a belay on the of 6) then step right to a spike. Move up past the overhang and follow a groove/corner to easier ground and belays. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. E2 5c E4 6a S 3c S 3c

sΩ sΩ 3 2 spΩ 2 tshΩ 3 ...... Gordon and Craig's Route Abraxas Arete, Chimney and Crack. Chimney and Arete, The Balrog 5a, 17m. Climb the corner to a belay on the left. the steep cracks in the wall to gain the next 5c, 20m. Take 6a, 35m. Head out right below the slanting overhang, then 4c, 14m. Climb steeply from the left up a groove and wall to a 5b, 30m. Gain the thin groove above (left of a hanging arete). 's corner, move right for 5c, 15m. From the base of The Balrog's corner, FA. R.Matheson, J.R.Martindale (1pt ) 28.6.1975 FA. 2) corner - strenuous - and follow this to a grassy ledge. belay. 3) 25m. Climb the chimney and cracks to easy ground and Scrambling remains to the top of the buttress. break through it at a corner/groove. Move right to an easing and and go left to a steep crack-line. The crack-line is pumpy Take ends with a wild move right to easier territory at a corner. the corner then move right into Eliminate 'A'. Follow this to its stance at blocks. 3) bulge. Move over the bulge and up another groove to a belay. 4) Climb the groove with difficulty before moving left to another groove that leads to easier ground and belays. FA. T.C.Ormiston-Chant, T.H.G.Parker, S.H.Gordon 18.9.1910 T.H.G.Parker, T.C.Ormiston-Chant, FA. 2 with the addition of an Similar to Arete, Chimney and Crack below grassy ledges right of the extremely exposed finish. Start . arete of Arete, Chimney and Crack line that leads up to 1) 24m. Move up to gain a left-trending one of Arete, Chimney and Crack. meet the final crack on pitch belay. the crack to a stance and Take . 2) 11m. Pitch 2 of Arete, Chimney and Crack . 3) 20m. Pitch 3 of Arete, Chimney and Crack to right, past an exposed ledge and corner-line 4) 19m. Traverse a grass ledge and belay below a right-leading ramp. 5) 12m. Climb the ramp and move round to a ledge on blocks. Move up a corner to a ledge and belay. 6) 12m. Move up leftwards to a slab and follow this right to easier ground. Scrambling remains to the top of the buttress. and R.Rogers, J.Hanks, R.Gregson 26.9.1909 J.P. S.H.Gordon, A.Craig, FA. 3 and A strenuous but well-protected route that tackles the crack up the middle of the buttress. Start below the corner corner-line at a belay reached via a short scramble. 1) (3 pts) 1965 L.Brown, K.Jackson FA. 28.6.1975 J.Eastham, M.Lynch FFA. 4 has a serious first pitch and line that An audacious and fierce strenuous main pitch. Start at the base of The Balrog's corner. 1) bulge 3m. Climb to a slight depression and pull out of it past a A veryto a mossy slab. A dirty slab leads up and left to a stance. serious pitch that gathers moss. 2) 1 and exposure, great climbing with some and classic route A long below the arete of vegetated sections. Start but also a number of the buttress. on the left edge that leads to a ledge arete and face to a crack 1) 22m. Climb the and belay. to a small shallow a grassy groove rightwards 2) 11m. Move up cave and belay. then make a short rightwards under overhangs 3) 20m. Move up to a up over a large chockstone Climb traverse to a chimney. stance and belay. exposed ledge, until below a right, past an 4) 15m. Traverse before a grass ledge). corner (this is a few metres to easier ground and belays. 5) 24m. Follow the long corner the top of the buttress. Scrambling remains to gain Gully Great Great 7 Easy 2 scramble 6 5 6 85m 50m 4 3 'A' Buttress 'A' 'A' Buttress 'A' 2 Crag Dow Easy Gully 1 hrs 1

The towering buttress that is bounded on the right by Great Great on the right is bounded that by buttress The towering span the climbs that multi-pitch some classic has Gully until gets sun face The main upwards. Severe from grades so can be cold and windy. is exposed, but afternoon, early the clean, but and travelled well are Most of the routes get mossy. lines can harder the base of the up to Walk - (see map on p.162) Approach where from ledges, grassy various to and scramble buttress the climbs begin. ground easy up relatively - Scramble p.164) Descent (see Descent. the South Rake and then on to the top to WS$K 166 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 169 7 1 hrs 35m 6 Easy Terrace WS$K approach/descent 5 Dow Crag Dow 'B' Buttress - Lower p.170 4 3 60m - Upper Buttress 'B' 2 (rope advised) and then (rope 'B' Buttress - Upper 'B' Buttress 'B' Buttress's upper wall is a upper wall 'B' Buttress's of the crag section tremendous most the Lakes' with some of spread routes hard coveted of the wall's Many it. across subtle and quite are features when identifying is needed care dries fairly The rock the lines. seepage can some but quickly persist. (see map on p.162) Approach Terrace up the Easy - Scramble the starts. reach to - Reverse Descent (see p.164) the upper section of Giant's Crawl to (looking out) and down go left Terrace. join and descend Easy 1 E1 5b E4 6a E4 6a E5 6b E4 6b

stpΩ 3ptΩ 2ftΩ 4tsΩ 3 2tshΩ ...... Pandora's Box. . . Catacomb ...... Tumble Holocaust Genocide Giant's Crawl. to its short rib, then launch up the Holocaust to its short rib, 6b, 25m. Climb Catacomb's Giant's Crawl to the start of 5b, 30m. Head up 5c, 28m. Starting below an overhang, follow a left-trending , 36m. Climb the slab and crack before making a steep pull 5b, 36m. Climb the slab and crack before making a steep pull , 32m. Climb the flared groove to a short rib where 6a, 32m. Climb the flared groove traverse left to a slabby 5b, 18m. Move up the corner and to start - from the the wide crack - hard 5b, 13m. Take 6 FFA. P.Livesey, J.Lawrence 15.6.1975 P.Livesey, FFA. . for Holocaust . Start as on Holocaust hard variation An intricate Photo on p.11 1) on Giant's Belay crack passing a peg midway. left-trending thin Crawl. 2) above until a Start up Catacomb but take the wall second pitch. right leads to the top. groove on the 3 2) line across the wall to a grassy ledge (possible belay). Move out right and break through the overhangs with difficulty before some cracks lead slightly right to the top. R.Matheson, M.R.Matheson 15.4.1972 FA. Fierce technical climbing that is reliant on a number of pegs for technical climbing that Fierce . On the protection. Start at a small spike belay as for Tumble to right is a thin flake. From the flake (peg), make bold moves gains gain a slim groove and climb it (2 pegs) until a move left at the top of its groove. Move up to below a short crack, Tumble traverse right to a shallow recess, then pull back left to stand on a very narrow ledge. A flake allows the overhang above to be passed before the wall and final overlap lead to a belay. R.Knight, D.Kells 5.5.1990 A.Phizacklea, J.L.Holden, FA. 7 Unusual climbing that follows a left-trending line of overhangs and wide across the upper reaches of 'B' Buttress. Start at a slab close to the top of Easy Terrace. corner-crack 1) out left to get established below the line of overhangs. Follow a belay the line below the overhangs - sustained - all the way to on FFA. R.Matheson 28.8.1975 FFA. 5 Exemplary groove and wall moves topped off with an exposed final overhang. Start at a small spike belay on a grass ledge and below the groove. Move up leftwards, then head back right at up into the groove. Climb the groove to where it overhangs left around the rib and climb up to the a short crack. Traverse pull overhangs. Move left below the overhangs to a final quick over it on good holds to easier ground and a belay on Giant's crack, continue steeply up from the short Crawl. Alternatively, the crack to a narrow ledge and move left below the overhangs. Photo on p.175 FA. A.Phizacklea, R.Knight 7.8.1988 FA. 4 an urgent crux move. Start Spectacular climbing that features (this is the the left of Easy Terrace at large flakes on a ledge to Nimrod). belay at the top of pitch 1 of 1) Make a series of difficult Genocide moves left up the thin crack. hold. Pull up to the base of a moves up right to a good hidden slab rightwards to below steeper Climb the slabby wide corner. a tricky traverse left to a belay on ground (gear here), and make Giant's Crawl. 2) to a grass ledge and belay. corner/groove. Follow this rightwards 3) top. Can be dirty. left-hand side of the ledge to E1 5c

Diff 'B' Buttress - Upper Buttress 'B' sΩ descent 3 of the buttress the of tsΩ Easy Terrace Scramble to summit 3 ...... Crag Dow

Nimrod...... Giant's Crawl

, 30m. Move up past a low bulge on its left, then take the 5a, 30m. Move up past a low bulge on its left, then take the 5b, 18m. Move back left and climb the wall and corner to a then a thin crack in the left wall of the corner, 5c, 35m. Take

1 FA. D.Miller, D.Kirby 2.6.1962 D.Miller, FA.

A swerving line that links plenty of technical climbing in its three slightly disjointed pitches. Start below an open groove reached via a short scramble from the base of Easy Terrace. Photo on p.158 1) open groove rightwards until a traverse right and down leads to large flakes on a ledge. 2) difficult exit left. Belay on the Giant's Crawl ramp below a corner. 3) on the arete. Now make a technical traverse left to a small perch head up to a small overhang and pass it on its right. Finish up the easier wall to a grass ledge. FA. E.T.W Addyman, O.T.Addyman, Stobart 4.1909 Addyman, O.T.Addyman, E.T.W FA. 2 The quartz-flecked ramp that cuts across the buttress is a The quartz-flecked ramp that cuts across the buttress is brilliant line that is one of the best at its grade in the Lake District. It is far more difficult and less enjoyable in wet conditions. Start below the slabs at the base of Great Gully. 1) 18m. Climb easy ground to a ledge and belay on the left below a crack. 2) 20m. Climb the crack then traverse right to a belay on the edge of the ramp. easy ground past ledges to another belay near the 3) 14m. Take edge of the slab before the slab steepens up and narrows. 4) 30m. Climb up through the narrowing then head for a short ground easier gains crack The slab. the of side right the on crack by and the end of the ramp. From here it is possible to descend and scrambling down this to the heading down to Easy Terrace base of the crag. 5) 15m. Go left along ledges until below a corner-crack. 6) 10m. Climb up the awkward crack to a grassy ledge. to 7) 20m. From the left end of the ledge, follow a crack/groove ledges. From here scrambling remains to reach the summit. 1 168 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 171 S 4a E2 5c VS 4c E2 5b

4Ω stΩ 3 2hsΩ 2tsΩ Dow Crag Dow ...... Murray's Route Tarkus Murray's Direct Murray's Super Direct. , 20m. Climb the V-groove then head left across a difficult 4a, 20m. Climb the V-groove , 30m. From the overlap, make a bold move up and right to overlap, make a bold move 5c, 30m. From the of Leopard's Crawl. 4c, 20m. Pitch 2 rightwards to a belay at 4c, 16m. Climb the technical ramp then right of the corner, 4b, 12m. Climb flakes in the wall to some small ledges 4c, 25m. Layback the corner-crack to 5b, 16m. Climb the steep ramp and then move up the wall 5b, 12m. Move out left to a groove and take this and the the chimney on the left (as for Murray's Route) 5b, 25m. Take FA. R.Matheson, J.R.Martindale 25.4.1974 R.Matheson, J.R.Martindale FA. 7 section A distinguished classic that wends its way up the lower just left of the Mountain of 'B' Buttress. Start at a wide V-groove Rescue box. Photo on p.23 1) Move up and left to avoid an overhang, slab to below a corner. then continue to a stance and belay at the base of the large corner. right past a large flake then up and around to a 2) 10m. Traverse wide crack that leads to a cave belay. a short steep crack on the left to a traverse line that 3) 9m. Take leads to the corner and a belay. the chimney on the left to a traverse line that 4) 12m. Take An exposed heads left past a flake to a belay below a corner. pitch. 5) 20m. Climb the flake-crack on the right that leads into the Climb the corner and groove above to the top. corner. B.L.Martin 25.4.1918 W.J.Borrowman, D.G.Murray, FA. 4 Start initial wall. that has a serious climb A well-positioned a small overlap and block, below of the perched down and right cover. Photo on front narrow groove. 1) serious moves lead right of the groove. Further gain the wall just the excellent crack right and take break. Traverse to a horizontal pitch of Leopard's belay at the top of the first and wall to the Crawl. 2) R.Matheson, M.R.Matheson 18.4.1972 FA. 5 combine to make up this Contrasting styles of climbing conspicuous right-leading ramp. exceptional route. Start at a Photo on p.160 1) a pitch to be rushed! Not the base of a large corner. 2) below the upper corner. move left to a stance and belay 3) climb and right Move overhang. to starts corner the where below slabby rock to the top. 15.10.1922 J.B.Meldrum E.H.Pryor, FA. 6 Start at a slight ramp 3m left of Murray's Route's V-groove. 1) This eventually arrive at the base of the large corner and belay. pitch can gather a lot of moss. 2) right-leading crack above to a stance in the corner. 3) right to its top and move up left to below an overhang. Pull out left to and move up to another overhang. Make a long move out the top. clear the overhang and gain easier ground that leads to - Lower Buttress 'B' HVS 5a S 3c E2 5c

1Ω sΩ 3 tsΩ 3 ...... 'B' Buttress - Lower 'B' Buttress Photo on p.163 . Giant's Corner...... Pink Panther Leopard's Crawl , 30m. From the perched block, move up rightwards to a block, 5a, 30m. From the perched 4c, 20m. Move right 3m and then take the groove and cracks The lower section of 'B' Buttress is a wedge-shaped wall wall is a wedge-shaped of 'B' Buttress section The lower best Crag's of Dow number a and contains rock of fine sun longer than other and gets It driesrapidly pitches. parts crag. of the of the routes The bases - (see map on p.162) Approach or the Buttress 'A' either below from reached easily are box. Rescue Mountain Terrace. Easy the down - Scramble p.164) Descent (see FA. R.Matheson, M.R.Matheson 28.6.1973 FA. 3 A testing route that crosses some impressive territory and has at a a run-out section on the upper part of the first pitch. Start from a spike. rock spanning small perched 1) right to an crack on the right side of a smooth wall. Traverse open groove/scoop and follow this boldly to a belay. 2) above to the top. 9.9.1947 T.Hill R.J.Birkett, L.Muscroft, FA. 1 up to the huge roof. Move up Start under the corner that leads and take the slab to under the the thin wall to below the corner holds to reach Easy Terrace. steeply left on good roof. Traverse 4.1920 A.W.Wakefield G.S.Bower, FA. 2 rock. Start at a ledge 3m left An intricate face climb on great block at the start of Leopard's Crawl. Move up of the perched to a right-leading shallow right between two narrow overlaps bulge and flat-topped spike. Move depression. Follow this to a take this until a move left gains a up and right to a groove and of the huge roof. Finish up a corner/ slab and the right-hand end groove. 30m 60m box Rescue Mountain 7 6 descent Easy Terrace 45m 5 4 'B' Buttress - Lower Buttress 'B' 3 2 Crag Dow

'B' Buttress - Upper p.168

on spikeon 1 hrs

Perched block

1 {S$K 170 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 173 and 'C' Buttress and 'C' Woodhouse Pinnacle Pinnacle Woodhouse Dow Crag Dow

The shady walls above the squat above The shady walls up the hides midway pinnacle that has some of 'C' Buttress corner left that routes single-pitch very hard the right is To attempts. see few 'C' Buttress, gently-angled the long, most Crag's Dow one of home to climbs in the The popular classics. Pinnacle see Woodhouse of recess sun, although seepage very little 'C' of a problem. much is not too drying. is quick Buttress - (see map on p.162) Approach Pinnacle is approached Woodhouse up the corners and via a scramble is the 'C' Buttress it. below gully the right to point of the crag lowest box. Rescue of the Mountain is a There - Descent (see p.164) the lines that point above lower-off . Arete of Woodhouse's end on top descend via the other climbs, For Terrace. Easy down the scramble Large flake Large

5

shown

fallen off fallen

to fin fin has to

here next next here Big spikeBig Pinnacle Buttress 'C' and Pinnacle Woodhouse next to

Woodhouse Woodhouse EasyTerrace

pinnacle

scramble down down scramble Way off descent Way Large ledge 4 30m 60m 3 2 1 1 hrs WS$K E6 6c E5 6b E6 6c E6 6b VDiff

stΩ stΩ 4sΩ 3 3 sptΩ sthΩ . . 3 3 ...... Paths of Victory. . . 'C' Ordinary Route Critical...... The Shining Path. . . . Woodhouse's Arete Woodhouse's The Shining Path, make hard moves right and up over a Bridget Glaister enjoying some perfect summer conditions on the lower section of the classic 'C' Ordinary Route (VDiff) - this page - on 'C' Buttress, Dow Crag. Photo: Mark Glaister FA. G.F.Woodhouse, A.J.Woodhouse 8.1904 A.J.Woodhouse G.F.Woodhouse, FA. FA. A.Hyslop, D.Kells 16.6.1992 FA. 4 A huge pitch that takes on the intimidating ground that lies above the initial difficulties of The Shining Path. From the pocket on before bulge onto the wall above. Head right to the arete (peg) of making another set of difficult moves to a ramp. The middle the top. the slabs to the right (peg) leads past small overlaps to D.Kells 5.9.1993 S.Wood, FA. 5 with The long narrowing buttress is a gratifying climb packed than in interesting climbing. The climb is slightly more difficult on the past as a result of the loss of a large spike of rock high the route. Start 2m left of the toe of the buttress at a crack. Photo on this page. a 1) 16m. Climb to a large block, then head up leftwards to steep flake-crack that leads to a ledge and belay. 2) 13m. Move up a short wall and step left to a ledge. An easy flake low-angled corner gains a belay ledge with a large square resting on it. 3m left and climb easily up right to a ledge 3) 11m. Traverse and belay. 4) 23m. Climb up leftwards to the crest of the buttress and Good hidden cracks just follow this to a small ledge and belay. up and left of the belay. 5) 12m. Move up to the base of a slab and follow it rightwards to a belay on a ledge. a crack leftwards to a pronounced fin of rock. 6) 16m. Traverse to Move left under the fin and make a difficult move up a crack ramp. easier ground. Move up right to a belay at the start of a back 7) 13m. Climb the ramp and pull up to a ledge. Traverse left until a final move up gains the top. A stunning line up the very line up the A stunning rises arete that of the leaning edge Start below the pinnacle. Pinnacle. above Woodhouse of the pinnacle, reach the chimney in the wall left From a flake in steeply to below to a good hold and climb around the arete under a small up to a flake, then head right a groove. Move the airy the arete and a peg. Climb overhang to gain a arete via and technical moves. series of steep K.Phizacklea, R.Matheson 5.1998 FA. 2 the shady wall above the pinnacle The overhanging crack-line in piece. From the chimney behind is an extremely hard trad test the wall under the crack-line and the pinnacle, gain a flake on the crack-line up the overhanging move up left to a peg. Follow easing midway. wall passing a peg and a slight G.Sutcliffe 20.6.1992 FA. 3 predominantly by pegs. Start First-rate wall climbing protected the pinnacle. From the chimney, below the sheer wall right of climb up it to gain a pocket and then step right onto the wall and to the top. an easier corner that leads leftwards 1

Woodhouse Pinnacle and 'C' Buttress 'C' and Pinnacle Woodhouse

Crag Dow 172 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells

Langdale Valley Duddon and Coniston Wasdale and Eskdale Buttermere and Ennerdale Borrowdale Fells Eastern The 175 (E1) and the steep wall of (E4). Photo: Mark Glaister (E4) - p.168 - on the upper wall of Dow Crag Dow

Rob Greenwood engaged in the technical intricacies of the of intricacies technical in the engaged Greenwood Rob slim groove of Tumble his left is the corner followed 'B' Buttress, Dow Crag. To by the second pitch of Nimrod the initial pitch of Holocaust HVS 5b HS 4b

sΩ 3 ...... spftΩ Easter Gully Easter 3 Hopkinson's Crack Great Central Route , 14m. Take the crack to a belay on a ledge on the left level 4a, 14m. Take 4b, 11m. The next section of the crack is more difficult and 4a, 25m. Continue up the crack to the top. Scramble up the , 23m. Climb up the centre of the narrow buttress via short 5a, 23m. Climb up the centre of 5b, 22m. Thin, fingery and bold moves up the wall gain better 4b, 18m. A traverse right along the ledge ends at an exposed Easter Gully is one of the lesser-visited sections of Dow of Dow sections the lesser-visited is one of Gully Easter narrow spot with the impressive is an gully The Crag. between sandwiched headwall two and long crack-lines gully. in the wedged that is chockstone a massive above their for not only memorable described are The routes the for but and challenging climbing, amazing position a over ascended both first were that they sobering fact to time takes the gully A confined location, century ago. . Gully of Hopkinson's the corner-crack especially dry, up the gully, - Scramble (see map on p.162) Approach its left. to via the wall passing the huge chockstone join and descend to left - Scramble Descent (see p.164) Terrace. Easy FA. C.Hopkinson, O.Koecher 14.4.1895 C.Hopkinson, O.Koecher FA...... 9.1919 G.Jackson, A.P.Wilson G.S.Bower, J.I.Roper, FA. 2 A very traditional climb that takes the eye-catching right-angled at the back of the amphitheatre. Although described corner-crack in three pitches, it can be led in one by the confident and/or those with a big rack. Start at the base of the corner. 1) with the base of the Africa-shaped flake. 2) leads to a belay on ledges - The Bandstand. 3) gully to where you can walk leftwards. 1 the narrow headwall at the A monumental line that tackles The crux is probably E1 without resort to back of Easter Gully. with the belay below the crux traditional tactics! Care is needed Start at the base of the wall. as the best gear is at foot level. 1) a steep crack on the right-hand slabs and walls to a ledge below flake. Climb the strenuous crack to side of a large Africa-shaped on the left - the gear placements ledges - The Bandstand. Belay are at foot level. 2) to an holds and a slight niche. Continue up a short flake-crack Move overhung diagonal break and follow this left to a corner. up and right to a stance. 3) rib. Move right around it and follow the slab to the top. 1 hrs 50m Easter Gully Easter 2 WS$K 1 Crag Dow Pass the huge chockstone via the wall to its left

descent

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Easy Terrace Scramble to the The Bandstand The 174 Langdale Coniston and Duddon Valley Eskdale and Wasdale Ennerdale and Buttermere Borrowdale The Eastern Fells