TRIP 7: HOD REET FUR ESHDEL Without Any Doubt, to My Way Of

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TRIP 7: HOD REET FUR ESHDEL

Without any doubt, to my way of thinking, Eskdale is the most beautiful valley in the Lake District. This view is corroborated by St. Alfred of Wainwright in his booklet ‘Walks from Ratty’ (7) where he says:

“Eskdale, one of the loveliest of Lakeland’s valleys, descends from the highest and wildest mountains in the district to the sands of Ravenglass in a swift transition from grandeur to beauty, from bleak and craggy ridges to verdant woodlands and pastures watered by a charming river. It is a place of many delights, the finest of all valleys for those whose special joy is to travel on foot and a paradise for artists. Unspoilt by commercial and industrial activity, it remains today little changed since the first settlers discovered and cultivated with loving care this perfect Arcadia in the hills.” (p.3)

I bow to the master. This, I believe, was written in 1978 and is still true today. My only quibble with the great man is that I find the upper reaches of Eskdale just as beautiful as the ‘verdant woodlands and pastures’ (see spots 96 & 97): the ridges may be ‘bleak and craggy’ but what about the waterfalls, the rivers, the Great Moss and the shapes of the mountain-tops which speak of beauty as well as grandeur?

Some will object that there are no lakes in Eskdale. True, but there are two very large tarns and many smaller ones that I personally find more beautiful than the great expanses of, say, Windermere, Bassenthwaite Lake and Coniston Water. A unique feature of Eskdale is that it starts beneath the highest mountain in England and ends at the sea. The other main valleys in the west of the Lake District, Lorton Vale, Ennerdale and Wasdale, all emerge from their enclosing hills onto the West Cumbrian Plain several kilometres from the coast, whereas Eskdale, because of Muncaster Fell, maintains its hilly embrace right down to the coast. Its only rival in this respect is Wordsworth’s favourite valley, Dunnerdale, its next-door neighbour to the south. Despite William’s poetic praises, Dunnerdale, for me, is just a bit less than Eskdale in every respect: less imposing origins, too few tarns (it only has Seathwaite Tarn and a few very small ones), too little pasture and too much forest, and a less beautiful exit on Duddon Sands when compared with the Esk Estuary at Ravenglass.

Another feature of Eskdale is that it is much less visited than other parts of the Lake District and has fewer books written about it, thus partially justifying my including it in a website on ‘trails less trodden’. My other justification for including these trails is that I have plotted them to follow routes ‘less trodden’ than those in the only two publications I could find on walks in Eskdale. These are in booklet form: Wainwright’s ‘Walks from Ratty’, ten walks from and to stations on the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway (nickname Ratty), and Mary Welsh’s ‘Easy Rambles around Eskdale’, ten walks which overlap considerably with those of Wainwright. My occasional references to these works will just use the author’s name or refer to them together as ‘W&W’. These booklets are available at Ravenglass and Dalegarth Stations.

Lastly, I should just explain the title of this chapter: ‘Hod Reet fur Eshdel’. I can do no better than the explanation on the back of a postcard of the wooden sign on which these four words have been carved: “Farmer in isolated Miterdale, so frustrated by walkers calling to ask the way to Eskdale, hand-made this explanatory sign. Now has even more callers asking what it means! (Does nobody understand good Cumbrian English?)”. And, I might add, does nobody read a map? The translation is ‘Right way for Eskdale’. I hope the trails and spots I describe will indeed be the right way for you to enjoy this ‘dale less trodden’.

90: Silver Knott, Muncaster Fell

W&W both recommend walking across Muncaster Fell from the coast inland “in order to have the finest views ahead” (Wainwright). I did it in the other direction because I wanted to spend time around Ravenglass before catching Ratty back to my hotel. I don’t know about you but when I’m fell-walking, my eyes are down on the path. When I want to admire the view, I stop. In this case, I also had to turn around. Big deal. Because W&W both describe the trail in the opposite direction, I shall have to give you more directions than usual as some parts are tricky to follow.

Starting from Irton Road Station on the Ratty line, cross the bridge over the track and head south past Hollowstones. Go through the gate after Forest How and just before the next gate, take the path to your right leading up towards the fell. This reaches a kissing- gate, after which stick to the path near to the wall on your right. This will take you to just below the top of Silver Knott at 174m. On the way up, there’s a great view straight up Eskdale towards Hardknott Pass (Photo 732). This little hill was avoided by W&W, which is a pity because it’s a great view-point and my first spot on Muncaster Fell. There are two tops to choose from. Mine had these views:

North-East – down a heathery ridge and up green Miterdale to the Scafell Range on the horizon; Miterdale Forest is dark green on the left and Eskdale veers off, mostly unseen, to the right; the ridge of mountains around Upper Eskdale continues eastwards from Scafell (this ridge will become very familiar to you as you explore Eskdale)

East – down the same ridge towards Harter Fell on the horizon; to the right, the green fields of mid-Eskdale from Muncaster Head Farm to around Beckfoot

South-East – over more green fields around Linbeck to the hills around Ulpha Fell, namely Water Crag, Yoadcastle, Stainton Pike and Whitfell

South – over Lower Eskdale and along the West Cumbria Plain towards Waberthwaite and Bootle; Birkby Fell and Corney Fell rise gradually towards the hills around Ulpha Fell; the sea appears in the distance, as does Black Combe

Photo 732: Eskdale from the path up Silver Knott

South-West – along Muncaster Fell towards Hooker Crag, which obscures the sea and the Esk Estuary

West – the sea also appears to the west of Muncaster Fell behind Drigg and Sellafield Power Station; Wainwright always complained that Sellafield spoils the view but where did he think his electricity came from? And anyway, it could be seen as quite attractive, like pieces of a huge chess set placed on the coast

North-West – along the West Cumbrian Plain, a patchwork of light and dark green, towards Gosforth; a few foothills rise towards Ponsonby Fell; Lower Miterdale crosses in the foreground

North – Irton Pike stands out above Miterdale, beginning a ridge that climbs all the way to Whin Rigg and Illgill Head above Wast Water, hidden behind them

Disconcertingly, on the way up to Silver Knott, I met a couple coming down who complained, “There’s no point in going up there, there’s nothing to see”. How wrong could they be? The view takes in the whole of Miterdale except for its estuary at Ravenglass and most of the route of the Ratty line, whose engine steam you may be able to see. Much of Eskdale is on view, too, but not its estuary nor its upper reaches, hidden behind the hills on its northern side. However, for 174m, it’s a varied and wide-ranging view over the dale you are about to explore. 91: Hooker Crag, Muncaster Fell

Come down from Silver Knott in the direction of the rest of Muncaster Fell, i.e. south-west. You soon join the public footpath recommended by W&W. This now passes through a ‘depression’ (Wainwright) or ‘flat ground’ (Welsh). In fact, it contains a bog, conveniently ignored by W&W, but negotiable by treading on tussocks. Then the ground rises to a wall which you follow to a gap at the end of a wall that comes in from the left. Through the gap you come to a choice point. The W&W path heads off to the left at about 45 degrees but is not very clear. A more obvious path goes straight ahead and this is the one I suggest you take. It means you will miss out on ‘Ross’s Camp’, a stone table erected by shooters in 1883, which had no appeal for me, and instead you embark upon a much more interesting path between the highest crags of Muncaster Fell – the W&W path skirts to the south of them but does afford views into Lower Eskdale, already seen from Silver Knott.

The higher path passes a somewhat incongruous ‘Christmas tree’ (sporting a few baubles in September 2014 – Photo 742) and meanders through patches of beautiful pink and yellow

Photo 742: ‘Christmas Tree’ with Hooker Crag in the background scrub on its way to the base of Hooker Crag, the highest point of Muncaster Fell at 231m. There is a short but steep climb to the top, where you may well be assaulted by very irritating flies that seem to congregate on the tops of crags. Once you have dowsed yourself with insect-repellent, these terrific views present themselves:

North-East – along the ridge of Muncaster Fell that you have just walked to the horseshoe of mountains around the rim of Upper Eskdale; on the left is Miterdale Forest and Miterdale itself; on the right is the green swathe of mid-Eskdale

East – down the southern slope of Muncaster Fell to mid-Eskdale and the hills behind: Harter Fell, Green Crag, Great Worm Crag and the pyramid of Caw on the far side of Dunnerdale South-East to South – in the foreground, the trig pillar of Hooker Crag and the green humps around it; then over a dark belt of forest to the green fields of Lower Eskdale, the coastal fells and the coastal plain

South-West – along the rest of Muncaster Fell to the sea; the sands of the Esk Estuary can now be seen but not Muncaster Castle or Ravenglass; also visible are the mud-flats of the Mite Estuary

West – down the northern slope of Muncaster Fell to a patchwork of green fields and the estuary of the River Irt; a long line of dunes stretches from Drigg Point to the village of Drigg 4k to the north; beyond that, the sea

North-West – over a shoulder of Hooker Crag to the greenery of the coastal plain; Sellafield Power Station is conspicuous on the coast, which then fades into the horizon

North – over the same shoulder to the more forested area around the lower reaches of the Rivers Bleng and Irt, backed by the fells between Ennerdale Water and Wast Water

Apart from the flies, this is a wonderful spot. The view is more all-encompassing than that from Silver Knott but I actually preferred Silver Knott because it has better views of mid- and Upper Eskdale – from Hooker Crag, these views are obscured by the length of Muncaster Fell. For many, that deficiency will be outweighed by the better views of the coast – you are 2k nearer to the sea at Hooker Crag.

You can descend from the summit to the south-west and join the W&W path which then passes a plantation on the right to reach a gate. Beyond the gate, the trail goes down fairly rapidly, passing a pretty tarn to join a long lane that meets the A595 after 1k. From the lane you can just see the Esk Estuary over the shrubbery on the right.

Then you have some choices: at the entrance to Muncaster Castle, you can turn right inside the gate on a track that descends about 1k to a Roman Bath House; or you can follow the A road, and then a B road, into Ravenglass, about 1.5k; or you can turn left off the A road at a right-curving bend a bit further on to follow a footpath through a wood and then over fields to the Esk Estuary, which is the option I chose. On the way, you get a closer view of the estuary and, in particular, are granted a spectacular entrance through trees into the estuary itself. Then the whole estuary is laid out before you south, west and north (Photo 761).

By turning right, you come out seawards of Ravenglass and can enter its main street from the beach, perhaps to enjoy some refreshment at a pub by the shore before catching Ratty at the nearby station. As Wainwright concluded, “This is a walk to remember” – even more memorable with my modifications, I hope.

Photo 761: view of Esk Estuary, looking south-west

92: Above Blind Tarn, near Beckfoot

This is a trail from Beckfoot to Blea Tarn, Blind Tarn and Siney Tarn, then along and down the ridge to Eskdale Green. Ostensibly, it is on public footpaths all the way but the OS maps are deceptive after Siney Tarn. No easy-to-follow path exists for about 1k, so if you want to stick to obvious paths, choose another trail or turn right at Blea Tarn with Wainwright. He follows this path north-westwards to emerge at Boot. Welsh follows the same path as me but in the opposite direction. Her instructions seem to me quite confusing – since her booklet was published in 2009, I guess that the bracken has taken over. I shall try to give you general pointers to help you over the confusing kilometre of the trail.

Photo 1235: map for spot 92 (Crown copyright 2015, Ordnance Survey FL-GV 166842) You start at Beckfoot Halt on the Ratty line. Climb the steep hillside to the north of the track, enjoying a few hairpin bends and some great views of Eskdale on the way (Photo 772). After 40 minutes or so, you reach a parting of ways near the top. Take the right-hand path which leads to Blea Tarn, where there is a natural resting-place by some large rocks (Photo 775). The tarn is enclosed by low hills but has no views to Eskdale or to the surrounding mountains. As such, I had to look elsewhere for a spot worthy to qualify for this website.

I stumbled upon one by chance. Wanting to continue on the public footpath round the north of Siney Tarn, I followed the obvious path from the north side of the outlet from Blea Tarn. This veers left and then bends to the right until you find yourself on a ridge above Blind Tarn and Siney Tarn. Go up to one of the hillocks that top the ridge to find these appealing views:

Photo 772: Eskdale from the climb up to Blea Tarn

Photo 775: Blea Tarn North-East – along the ridge of hills to the west of Blea Tarn to Scafell and Bowfell

East – over Blea Tarn to Crinkle Crags, Hardknott Pass and Harter Fell; beneath Harter Fell, Low Birker Farm nestles amongst the trees of Eskdale

South-East – over the trees of mid-Eskdale to Green Crag and Great Worm Crag

South – over the next stretch of mid-Eskdale to Yoadcastle, Stainton Pike and Whitfell

South-West – a wall crosses the fell diagonally with Muncaster Fell and Lower Miterdale in the distance

West – along the ridge to a jumble of rocks

North-West – over mid-Miterdale to Miterdale Forest

North – over Blind Tarn, Siney Tarn and Upper Miterdale to Whin Rigg and Illgill Head; Kirk Fell and a piece of Great Gable can be seen in the gap between Illgill and Scafell

This was my first taste of the magnificent mountains surrounding Eskdale from within their ambit, added to which was the lovely prospect of three tarns of very different character: Blea clean and clear, Blind tiny and hidden when approached from the north, and Siney choked with bogbean but still beautiful in a ramshackle way (Photo 801).

Photo 801: Siney Tarn from its north-east corner

From this spot, I could see where I wanted to go towards Siney Tarn but could not see the path. After much searching, I found it by a small pool just before the right turn after leaving Blea Tarn (Photo 800). This becomes an attractive path round the back of Siney Tarn: it is overgrown and rough but very peaceful. Despite being a public footpath, it has clearly become a ‘trail less trodden’. Everyone seems to continue on the path above Blind Tarn and perhaps this is the way to go if you don’t want to get lost.

Photo 800: the white square shows where the path goes to the right into the bracken

Of course, I stuck with the ‘public footpath’. This comes to the outlet of Siney Tarn where it seemed impossibly boggy to me, so I went ahead on a path heading north-west towards Low Place. When the path starts to descend more steeply to Miterdale, I turned left (Photo 803).

Photo 803: pole indicates left turn

This took me to the outlet lower down and I crossed it at a boggy spot. Turning left up the slope, I soon found the ‘vast expanse of bog’ mentioned by Welsh but could find no ‘clear path’ round it, just lots of bog and bracken. So I gave up on that path and headed for the public footpath that skirts the south-eastern edge of the nearby forest and followed that until I reached a stile in front of a hillock (Photo 805).

Photo 805: stile is just visible between long grasses

Here I went wrong again. I wanted to follow the path that goes along by the forest and emerges on a lane above the tarn in Eskdale Green. I started out that way but felt that the path was descending too far into Miterdale, so turned round and took the path that goes left after the stile. I soon met a couple who had tried the same path as me but had persevered past the expanse of bog. They also lost the path but waded through bog and bracken to join the path that I was on. After a good mutual moan, we joined forces to descend to Eskdale. The path affords more nice views into Eskdale in the direction of Muncaster Fell and passes a ruined peat-hut (Photo 807).

Photo 807: is it the hut or my picture that is skew-wiff?

However, it comes out at The Green Station below the tarn at Eskdale Green. So I had to slog up the hill to the shop for my provisions before coming down again to catch the train. Clearly, I should have stuck with the path that I abandoned, which must turn left to reach the lane. In general, my advice is to make for the path by the forest after Siney Tarn at Photo 803 and give the bog and bracken a wide berth.

Despite all these hassles and wrong turns, I really enjoyed this outing – it’s good to get lost once in a while and there’s no better place to do it than Eskdale. 93: Eel Tarn

Eel Tarn, like Blea Tarn, lies on a shelf on a ridge on the north side of mid-Eskdale. Unlike Blea Tarn, it has views beyond its nearby surrounding hills.

The trail starts from the Woolpack Inn, 1.5k up Eskdale from Boot (Photo 812), going up a track to the left of the inn buildings. The path curls right then left up the hillside, passing a roofless peat-hut from where there is a good view down Eskdale (Photo 819).

Photo 812: start of trail by Woolpack Inn

Photo 819: view down Eskdale towards Black Combe Ridge

Five minutes later, you are at Eel Tarn and can survey its pretty location from a knoll to the right of the path (Photo 820). Scafell can be seen peeking over the hills to the NNE. However, this is not the best spot from which to survey the scene.

Photo 820: view over Eel Tarn towards Scafell Ridge

By continuing on the path to the west of the tarn, you have a choice of other knolls to climb. The one I preferred has these views:

South-East to South – over Eel Tarn to Harter Fell and Green Crag; the hills are well reflected in the water

South-West – along the ridge to Great Barrow, a hill that rises up between Eskdale and the valley of Whillan Beck (it doesn’t seem to qualify as a dale, I can’t see why not – let’s call it Whillandale)

West – down into Whillandale as far as Gill Bank and across to the ridge between Blea Tarn and Boat How; Whin Rigg is on the skyline North-West – down into the upper part of Whillandale and across to Boat How and Illgill Head

North – up to the top of Whillandale where the gap between Illgill Head and Scafell displays the faint shapes of Red Pike, Yewbarrow, Pillar and Kirk Fell

North-East – up the ridge past Raven Crag and Great How to Scafell and Slight Side

East – along the marshy land to the north of Eel Tarn to the low hills on the way to Stony Tarn

This is one of my favourite situations: a sheet of water on a shelf overlooking nearby mountains with some soothing undulations in between. There will be more of these before we are done with Eskdale.

94: By Stony Tarn

So now what? W&W both visit Eel Tarn and then take off into Whillandale. I’m going to take you on a trail less trodden to Stony Tarn. The path is not at all clear, although one is marked on OS maps, so be prepared for lots of directions and photos to help you on your way. It’s only about 1k as the crow flies but more like 2k with the twists and turns. Anyway, it took me 45 minutes with a few wrong turns. But it’s definitely worth it.

Make your way along the north-east edge of Eel Tarn to its main inlet. Here you turn left up either side of the valley towards a prominent rock (Photo 867).

Photo 867: looking back from the rock to Eel Tarn

The path you want goes up the left side of this rock and undulates gently upwards towards a distinctive pike (I don’t know its name). You plough through bracken before reaching a bog, before which it’s important to turn left and cross it (Photo 865).

Photo 865: pole indicates turn – distinctive pike on centre skyline

Then you ascend more steeply towards and between two rocky knolls to emerge with a clear view of the pike and the basin in which Stony Tarn rests (Photo 859).

Photo 859: Stony Tarn lies in the basin to the left

The path goes up the side of a ridge above Stony Tarn on its way to Slight Side and Scafell but you can drop down to the tarn-side very easily. Once there, I had my lunch by the outlet from the tarn but that’s not the best spot around. Cross the outlet and go up the slope beyond for a few metres to find a spot where the views are better:

North – across Stony Tarn to Scafell and Slight Side, which appear just above the hills around the tarn; I fancied I could see the cairn on top of Scafell; the hills are covered in a motley array of grass, bracken and rocks

North-East – across the north-eastern end of Stony Tarn to more mottled hills

East – along the steeper and craggier hills that make up the south side of Stony Tarn South-East to South – up a rock-strewn slope to what looks like the summit of the pike seen on your way up

South-West – along the marshy outflow from Stony Tarn towards the knolls you came between and the Blea Tarn ridge; in the far distance, Muncaster Fell

West – across the marshy outflow to the path going up the ridge to Scafell

North-West – down to the outlet from the tarn at its western end with the same ridge beyond

The spot is not too far from the side of the tarn so it doesn’t lose the tranquillity imparted by its placid waters. The question arises: “Why is it called Stony Tarn?” My feeling is that it’s not the rocks on the slopes around the tarn but what you see when you look into the tarn. See what you think. Altogether, it’s a peaceful spot with distant views of Scafell and Muncaster Fell surrounded by an amphitheatre of green hills and a flat expanse of rust-coloured marsh.

95: Knoll by Stony Tarn

You might think that one spot is enough for Stony Tarn but as I left I noticed a knoll in the middle of the rusty foliage around the outflow and thought it was worth a look. It turned out to be a spot with a completely different feel from the one right by the tarn, although it’s only 200m away. Instead of being enfolded in the tarn’s tranquillity, it’s just outside the cove and felt like a return to the wildness of the fells with more extensive views from SE to SW:

North – Scafell is still in sight but now over the ridge to the north-west of Stony Tarn

North-East – across the outflow from Stony Tarn; the outflow plots a sinuous course through the rusty marsh; the whole amphitheatre of hills around the tarn is seen (Photo 852)

East – across the sinuous outflow and marsh to the knobbly hills south of Stony Tarn, including the pike, not looking so pikey from this angle

South-East – Harter Fell peeks over the shoulder of the nearby hills

South – down the outflow meandering through the marsh in the direction of Eskdale and Green Crag

South-West – over more of the marsh to the two knolls you came between earlier; in the far distance, the hills of Ulpha Fell sloping gradually down to Lower Eskdale and MuncasterFell; on the day I was there, it was too hazy to see the Esk Estuary

West – across the marsh to the beginning of the ridge up towards Scafell

North-West – across the driest part of the marsh (your exit route) to the same ridge

Photo 852: Stony Tarn from the knoll

This island in the marsh seems to be between two worlds: the intimacy and peace of the tarn and the exposed vistas of Eskdale. I liked them both.

I advise return by the way you came, although there are other options: you could continue up the ridge as far as time allows, perhaps to return down the west side of Cowcove Beck; or you could try going down a path on the west side of the outflow which ends up at the Woolpack Inn, your starting point. However, I was told that this path involves some bog and a lot of bracken. The path you came up is so attractive, why look for anything else? Because I knew where I was going and wasn’t spot-hunting, writing notes or taking photos, the return journey took me 1 ½ hours, as opposed to 3 hours on the way up! To quote Wainwright again: “Every step on this lovely walk is a joy”. (7, p.20)

96: Near Lingcove Bridge, Upper Eskdale

The next two spots are my absolute favourites in the whole of the Lake District so watch out for hyperbole.

I set off from the Woolpack again but the phone box at the bottom of the Hardknott Pass is the start of the trail. Surprisingly, not many people travel this way – even on a perfect early September day, I met only seven others on the path, and all but one of them were going to or coming from a higher destination. The lure of the high tops is so great that walkers miss the delights of Upper Eskdale itself (I am twice guilty of this omission myself). From the phone box, pass Brotherilkeld Farm (a notice steers you to the left of the farmyard) and walk beside the river for a while with a fence on your right.

When you hit the open fields, the obvious way ahead is a track going gently uphill for about 2k but there is also a path much closer to the River Esk which is not so obvious and not so easy: “in places the going can be just a mass of strewn rocks or a bit of bog” (Welsh). I took the track, saving the river path for my return. According to Welsh, there is also a third path, higher up the hillside, which can be accessed from the car park a few hundred metres up Hardknott Pass. She says this path sometimes disappears and can be muddy so I’m glad I chose the track: it is easy walking in pleasant surroundings with enticing views ahead (Photo 879).

Photo 879: track across fields with Upper Eskdale ahead

After 1k, you can hear Scale Beck Waterfall on the opposite hillside and pass under Yew Crags rearing up to your right. After 2k, the track becomes a wide path as it leaves the fields and approaches the river. At this point, Bowfell dominates the view at the end of the valley with a much smaller pyramid below it. For the next 1k, you walk fairly close to the river, passing a small waterfall, until you arrive at a large, deep pool, partially shaded by a big tree (Photo 885). Intriguingly, the pool is called Tongue Pot. A whole coach party could swim in its clear green, sometimes turquoise, waters.

Photo 885: Tongue Pot with Lingcove Beck visible higher up the dale This is where the magic begins. The next kilometre or so is sheer heaven. Above the pool there is a mini-ravine with waterfalls (Photo 886) and then a rough and tumbling rocky stretch of river. Soon you arrive at a large sheepfold, through which the path slices to reach Lingcove Bridge (Photo 887). This bridge is the pivotal point in Upper Eskdale. If you cross it and go straight on, you are continuing with the River Esk towards Great Moss, Esk Hause where the Esk rises and to the various routes up the Scafell Ridge. If you turn right, you go up Lingcove Beck towards Green Hole, Esk Pike, Ore Gap, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags.

Photo 886: mini-ravine with Lingcove Bridge where two streams meet higher up

Photo 887: Lingcove Bridge

More than this, the bridge is the centre-piece of a deeply beautiful green oasis in somewhat bleak surroundings. Just a little way up the Esk is a series of waterfalls of various shapes and sizes, whilst a stone’s throw up Lingcove Beck is a lovely waterfall surrounded by trees and shrubs. The River Esk tumbles down a wide, green valley, whilst Lingcove Beck leaps more dangerously down a steep, rocky valley with at least one more waterfall visible higher up. The whole scene is brooded over by two rocky excrescences, rather like eyebrows, between which Lingcove Beck emerges (Photo 889).

Photo 889: waterfall on Lingcove Beck

The mini-ravine and the large, deep pool are not visible from here but are two minutes away down the valley. It was so hard to find my spot, there were so many, but eventually I plumped for one from where almost all the above delights could be seen:

North-East – up Lingcove Beck to the two ‘eyebrows’ with the waterfall visible through trees

East – across Lingcove Beck to its eastern bank up which the path to Bowfell goes

South-East – up the east side of Eskdale to Yew Bank and Hard Knott

South – over Lingcove Bridge and the sheepfold to the path you came up; the river does its rough and tumble over rocks before disappearing into the mini-ravine

South-West – up the west side of Eskdale to Heron Crag

West – across the Esk to a rather non-descript hillside covered in bracken

North-West – up Eskdale towards a line of crags on the far side, one of which is called Silverybield; no waterfalls visible

North – up the main path leading to Great Moss; it starts off as a rocky scar, then enters bracken and emerges as a broad green highway over the top of the hill; three last trees stand out on the hillside beneath the left ‘eyebrow’

While snooping around, I met up with a gang of young men in wet-suits who had commandeered the sheepfold. First I enquired about the location of ‘Throstle Garth’ on the map but no one knew. Then I asked what they were doing: they had spent the morning scrambling up and down this stretch of the Esk, jumping into pools on the way. They call themselves ‘gill-scramblers’. I was glad to find some others who appreciated the beauties of this area and were not just passing through (Photo 890).

Photo 890: looking down Eskdale to the sheepfold where the gill-scramblers were changing

I took their advice and went up close to the Esk to see the waterfalls and pools they had been enjoying (Photos 891/892).

Photo 891: the largest and most beautiful waterfall on the Esk

Photo 892: this pool is immediately above the waterfall in Photo 891 When I could go no further because I was approaching Esk Ravine, I turned right by a wispy tree (Photo 894) and clambered up a little stream to join the main path.

Photo 894

By the way, even the internet is not sure what ‘Throstle Garth’ refers to but most votes go for it being the narrow valley down which the Esk travels from Scar Lathing to Lingcove Bridge. I much prefer this name to ‘Esk Ravine’ so I shall use it from now on. One other suggestion derives from archaic English where ‘throstle’ means ‘song-thrush’ and ‘garth’ means ‘a small area of enclosed ground’ (The New Shorter Oxford English Dictionary). That could be interpreted to refer to the enclosed area where song-thrushes might gather around Esk Falls and Lingcove Beck where there are plenty of trees. You choose. I just like the name.

97: Scar Lathing, Upper Eskdale

I have loved the area around Scar Lathing ever since I came down from Scafell Pike in mist and rain and thought that Broad Crag Col was Lingmell Col and turned right for the ‘Corridor Route’. That mistake took me down Little Narrowcove but I knew the corridor route was not that steep so I turned right behind Pen and went down towards Cam Spout before I emerged from the mist, saw Great Moss and realised my mistake. Expecting to see Sty Head, I was flabbergasted and bewildered to behold this vast plain with a raging torrent running through it. I had my Wainwright with me (Scafell Pike version, not Walks from Ratty) and worked out where I was and what I had done. Having crossed Cam Spout up to my waist in water (unavoidable), I knew I had to stay away from the river and came down behind Silverybield Crag to Taw House and the Woolpack Inn.

However, I had seen how the Esk curls around to the left past a hill before plunging down a ravine and loved the look of it, promising myself I would come back to investigate. Well, it took me nine years to return and I was not disappointed.

The main path from Lingcove Bridge goes up above Throstle Garth and beneath Throstlehow Crag (Photo 916) with first Ill Crag and then Scafell Pike appearing for the first time. After 1k, the path flattens out and you approach a bend in the river beneath the considerable crag that is Scar Lathing (Photo 914).

Photo 916: on the skyline, Scafell Pike, Ill Crag, Scar Lathing and Esk Pike

Photo 914: Scar Lathing from the top of Throstle Garth

By the river I met the only other walker who was not going to or coming from higher places – he was having a paddle before returning down the dale. I had already decided that my next spot would probably be on top of Scar Lathing. It looked a bit steep for me, although the OS maps show a footpath going right over it. I decided to go round to its right to try and find an easier way up. There’s a faint path that turns the corner and goes up the left side of a small valley to a col between Scar Lathing and Long Crag. From there, the way to the top is easy. The best spot, as so often, is not the actual top but a few metres away from it where all this can be seen: North-West – down to Great Moss and up to Scafell and Scafell Pike; Great Moss is exactly what it says – a flat plain of wet ground that can be crossed with care in dry weather (a footpath is marked on OS maps); in wet weather, it is treacherous, as is the crossing of the Esk near to Cam Spout; Cam Spout Crag with its four diagonal gullies is prominent in front of Scafell

North – across Gait Crags to Ill Crag, Esk Hause and Esk Pike; between Scafell Pike and Ill Crag you can see the triangle of Dow Crag with its vertical gullies; the Esk is hidden behind Gait Crags but its source just beneath Esk Hause can be seen where three gullies come together; Esk Pike looks like a jumble of peaks but on closer inspection one is clearly a pike

North-East – across the top of Scar Lathing to Bowfell and the pass into Langdale by Three Tarns; Ore Gap is obscured by the top of Gait Crags

East – across the top of Scar Lathing to Shelter Crags and Crinkle Cags, with Long Top (the highest Crinkle) prominent

South-East – across the top of Scar Lathing to the ridge running down from Long Top to Wrynose Bottom; also down Mosedale to Grey Friar and Swirl How

South – across the top of Scar Lathing and Throstlehow Crag to Hard Knott; down Throstle Garth, with Harter Fell and Green Crag in the distance

South-West – down the south-western slope of Scar Lathing to the Esk and then up to High Scarth Crag

West – down the west ridge of Scar Lathing to the Esk and the southern end of Great Moss, then up to Slight Side

These views are simply monumental. You are surrounded by the highest mountains in England and can see the various means of climbing them. You can appreciate what an effort it is to climb these things from this side (there are much easier routes from Wasdale, Borrowdale and Langdale). Most impressive to me are the views down to Throstle Garth and across Great Moss to the Scafell Ridge.

An even better view of the bend in the Esk where the paddling was going on and of Throstle Garth can be obtained by descending the west ridge of Scar Lathing (Photo 911).

Once you reach the bottom, you can cut through to the bend down a little valley going south. You soon join the path that follows the east bank of the Esk and can retrace your steps past Lingcove Bridge to Brotherilkeld and the phone box. I was so tired I didn’t even consider taking the path by the river.

For a not-too-strenuous trail that goes from green fields and trees past pools, waterfalls, ravines and a mossy plain to views of the most awe-inspiring horseshoe of mountains in England, this really takes the biscuit - my best Lake District walk ever.

Photo 911: Throstle Garth from west ridge of Scar Lathing

98: Green Crag

This trail says ‘always listen to Wainwright’ – even if you sometimes disagree with him. I did not take my Wainwright ‘Southern Fells’ with me – and paid the price. The OS map seemed clear enough: two paths from the top of the hillside above Low Birker, joining up near Tarn Crag, one for the outward journey and one for the return. That’s not what happened, through every fault of my own.

Starting from the Woolpack Inn – again (well, I was staying there for four days) – turn right then left to the picturesque Doctor Bridge over the Esk (Photo 809).

Photo 809: Doctor Bridge Cross it and turn right to Low Birker, whose owner is turning a traditional Eskdale farm into a rather tasteless upmarket holiday let, much to the disapproval of the local community (Sept. 2014). Pass to the right side of Low Birker and turn left to join an old peat road up the hillside. Turn right at the top (the OS map says there is also a path going straight on) to pass an old peat-hut from where there are good views into mid- and Upper Eskdale (Photo 930).

Photo 930: clouds clearing over Upper Eskdale from near peat-hut

The path continues along a ridge for a while before swinging left to go south-eastwards above Low Birker Pool – a strange name for a gentle stream that throws itself over the hillside as Birker Force before joining the Esk downstream from Low Birker. You hop from knoll to knoll with Green Crag ahead (Photo 931) and Foxbield Moss to your right. This is a mini- version of Great Moss, except that it has a lovely tarn, Low Birker Tarn, on its eastern side, and is not surrounded by huge mountains but rather by low hills (Photo 943). Just past the tarn, you veer left around Tarn Crag to join the path going straight on at the top of the peat road.

Photo 931: Green Crag and Low Birker Tarn from opposite Gate Crag

Photo 943: Low Birker Tarn and Black Combe Ridge Then you have about 1k of gradual ascent towards and then beneath the ridge that ends in Green Crag. Appearances to the contrary, Green Crag is the highest of the various peaks (Photo 945). The rest of the ridge goes under the name of Crook Crag. Hereabouts, Devoke Water makes its first appearance to the south-west across Birker Fell (Photo 953).

Photo 945: Green Crag is the rounded top, right centre

Photo 953: Devoke Water from path up to the col

When you see a col between Crook Crag and Green Crag, turn left to climb up to it and then turn right to find your way to the top (not as difficult as it looks). The views from near the summit cairn are a revelation:

North to North-East – the view you are by now familiar with: right into Upper Eskdale and its horseshoe of mountains: Scafell, Scafell Pike, Ill Crag, Esk Pike, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags can all be discerned; you can even make out Scar Lathing, Throstlehow Crag, the area around Lingcove Bridge, Yew Crags and Brotherilkeld Farm (I could not quite make out the phone box!); this is the best of all views of Upper Eskdale, surpassing even that from Harter Fell, from where Lingcove is obscured by the slope of Border End North-East – across the top of Green Crag to Harter Fell, about 2k distant; to its right, Upper Dunnerdale climbs to Cockley Beck

East – down the slope of Green Crag into the forests of Dunnerdale with the Coniston Range on the horizon: Grey Friar, Swirl How, the ridge leading to Coniston Old Man, Dow Crag and Brown Pike can all be seen, as can the entrance to Seathwaite Tarn below

South-East – past the summit cairn to White Pike and Caw; Dunnerdale is now hidden by Wallowbarrow Heald

South – over White How to Lower Dunnerdale with the Duddon Estuary (mainly consisting of Duddon Sands) in the distance, seen between Stickle Pike on the left and Black Combe on the right

South-West – over Great Worm Crag and Hesk Fell to a line of hills that has no name – I would like to call it the Black Combe Ridge since it starts with Black Combe at 600m and ends 13k to the north with Rough Crag at 319m; I will not try to name them all (there are about thirteen separate hills) but the prominent ones are, in order, Black Combe, Buck Barrow, Whit Fell, Stainton Pike, Yoadcastle and White Pike; in front of Yoadcastle, the fields around Woodend stand out bright green amidst the sludgy green of the fells.

West – down the west slope of Green Crag to the fields around the farms of High Ground, Low Ground and Birkerthwaite, not quite as green as those around Woodend; most of Devoke Water can be seen, its southern side obscured by Seat How; over Water Crag and Rough Crag, you can see the sands of Eskmeals but not the actual estuary, which is obscured by the beginnings of Muncaster Fell, whose whole length is visible

North-West – down the west side of the col and on into Eskdale around Eskdale Green; then over Irton Pike and Miterdale Forest to the West Cumbrian Plain and a distant view of Sellafield; further round to the north you arrive at the Blea Tarn Ridge and Whin Rigg

North-West to North – down to Low Birker Tarn and into mid-Eskdale; over Crook Crag to Illgill Head, Haycock, Scoat Fell, Yewbarrow, Pillar and Kirk Fell

As you can tell from my verbosity, I absolutely love this view – it’s up there with Scar Lathing for me. In ‘The Southern Fells’ (8), Wainwright opines, “The view……in some respects even surpasses that from Harter Fell” (Green Crag 4). The comparison is apt: Green Crag has a better view of Upper Eskdale and the Black Combe Ridge, while Harter Fell is better for Dunnerdale, Wrynose Bottom and the Coniston Fells. I didn’t climb Harter Fell so I’m only going on Wainwright and my map-reading. Harter Fell didn’t interest me so much because it’s a trail well-trodden and because, pace Wainwright who enthuses about it, the ascent from Eskdale looked really boring to me.

Now to my chagrin: on the top, I met and chatted to a couple who told me they were descending along the Crook Crag Ridge because “Wainwright says you can go straight down” and set off in that direction (Photo 969). I also met a group of fell-runners who followed suit. That was good enough for me, preferring always not to retrace my steps. However, I did not have the advantage of Wainwright’s excellent map (Green Crag 2).

Photo 969: along the Crook Crag Ridge to the Eskdale Horseshoe, Harter Fell to the right

I came down from the summit on the eastern side (I’d come up the northern one) and crossed to Crook Crag, pausing to photograph a pretty pool looking towards the Coniston Range (Photo 970).

Photo 970: looking towards the Coniston Range

I followed a path that turned left before the end of Crook Crag. The path petered out and I was left standing at the top of a north-west-facing slope that descended steeply to Tarn Crag. Not wanting to face a kilometre of knee-crunching descent, I back-tracked and sought a way down the east slope of Green Crag to join the path from Dunnerdale to Eskdale. A footpath is marked on OS maps but I couldn’t find it – I think I was too far north – and had to wade through 1.5k of thick heather and then intermittent bog. Fortunately, the barbed-wire fence was easy to cross and I turned left for the path that comes out by Penny Hill Farm. I even managed to miss that. I turned left at a stile, coming down with a perfect view of Upper Eskdale to the right (Photo 979). I had to cross fences put up by the new owner of Low Birker several times (stiles provided) before losing the path – another old peat road according to Wainwright – at a gate and turning right to emerge opposite Wha House Farm. So that was three mistakes caused by not having Wainwright to hand. In my defence, Wainwright’s route is not a path and I may have been on the right track – I just didn’t have the legs for it. I leave it to you which descent to choose.

Photo 979: Upper Eskdale from above Wha House Farm

99: Above Hardknott Fort

Both W&W do Hardknott Fort as a walk, noting the wonderful views. But, in concentrating upon the fort, they miss the possibility of even better views by exploring further up the hillside. My trail follows that of Wainwright as far as the bottom of Hardknott Pass, then goes with Welsh briefly, before taking off towards Yew Crags.

Starting yet again from the Woolpack Inn, turn right then left for Doctor Bridge (see Photo 809 under spot 98). Cross it and turn left for Penny Hill Farm. Wainwright says, “The path onwards from Penny Hill is delightful but not quite easy. There are gates, stiles, fords and finally stepping stones to be negotiated”. True, but none of these is ‘not quite easy’ – the only difficulty I found was getting my trousers soaked as I plunged through wet bracken on the final stretch. He goes on, “The path is indistinct at the crossing of Spothow Gill – look for a signpost and a stile”. No longer true: the path is clear all the way and is delightful, topping, in my view, the one from St. Catherine’s Church to Doctor Bridge that he extols as “one of the most delectable miles in Lakeland”. Its advantage is the views to the left and ahead as you pass through the woods beyond Spothow Gill and the bracken beyond (Photo 989).

Photo 989: looking up Eskdale to Bowfell

The path ends with some redundant stepping stones beside a neat footbridge over Hardknott Beck – probably built since Wainwright was here. You then join the road and turn right to follow it for ½ k until you see a small gap in the wall to your left. Squeeze through and follow the path through a second narrow gap in a wall to then enjoy your first views down Eskdale. You soon arrive at the fort, which is worth ½ an hour of anybody’s time. Wainwright comments, “(The fort is)…..a strategic place of vantage commanding a view of Eskdale from the mountains down to the sea” (7, p.27). The best vantage point is the ‘Angle Tower’ at the western corner of the fort (Photo 1003).

Photo 1003: down Eskdale from Angle Tower

However, better views are obtained by following a faint path going north-east from the northern corner of the fort. There is a succession of knolls overlooking Eskdale with ever more commanding views (Photo 1007).

Photo 1007: Upper Eskdale with Yew Crags to the right

How far do you want to go? I wanted to get a view of my beloved Scar Lathing and Lingcove Bridge, rating these as essential components of my Eskdale. I had to go as far as the top of Yew Crags for that (Photo 1029). This is where my spot is, with these additional views:

Photo 1029: Scar Lathing (in shadow, left), Throstlehow Crag and Lingcove Bridge; Esk Pike on skyline

North – directly into the Eskdale Horseshoe from Scafell round to Crinkle Crags, including Scar Lathing and the source of the Esk, and also Lingcove Beck from the bridge to Green Hole and its source just beneath Ore Gap; all that is missing is Great Moss and the Esk from Lingcove Bridge to Heron Crag (about1k)

North-East – up the west slope of Border End to Long Top (the highest Crinkle)

East – up to the top of Border End

South-East – across the south-west slope of Border End to the top of Hardknott Pass (not quite visible)

South – across the top of some Yew Crags to Harter Fell, with Green Crag behind; Hardknott Fort no longer visible

South-West – the whole splendid vista down Eskdale; on the horizon, the Black Combe Ridge (but not Black Combe itself), the sea, Muncaster Fell and the Blea Tarn Ridge; Eskdale from Brotherilkeld past Wha House to Low Birker, Green How and Rough Crag (in other words, all the south side of the dale); also seen are the fields around Milkingstead; the sand in the distance to the right of Muncaster Fell is that beyond Drigg, not the Esk Estuary

West – across Eskdale to the Stony Tarn Ridge; below is the gash of Scale Beck and its waterfall

North-West – across Eskdale to Quadrigg Moss and Great How, three pimples on the skyline; the smooth slope of Slight Side completes the circle This is another epic view, with the added bonus of a sheer drop in front of you, which always adds a frisson to the calm beauty of a spot. The best possible view down Eskdale is from the top of Border End but then you might not be able to see Lingcove Bridge. It’s all a trade-off between competing delights. The view from the ‘Angle Tower’ takes in more of mid-Eskdale valley floor but doesn’t give you the Black Combe Ridge or the valley floor between Brotherilkeld and Throstlehow Crag or Crinkle Crags. You can’t have it all, it seems.

Another possible bonus, which doesn’t show up on the photos, is that you can see the Isle of Man just to the right of Muncaster Fell. For myself, I prefer my delights closer at hand.

As you descend, you have a good overview of Hardknott Fort and its surroundings (Photo 1035). After the fort, Welsh suggests returning by a path on the south side of the road, which starts opposite a small quarry and comes out at the car-park just above the stepping-stones. I didn’t try this but came down from the Angle Tower to the wall with the second narrow gap where I turned left to join the road. Believe it or not, I got a lift back to the Woolpack from a walker who passed me on the road before reaching his car – this stretch of road is notoriously difficult to hitch, however much you are limping!

Photo 1035: Hardknott Fort from the ridge leading to Yew Crags, Harter Fell to the left

100: Devoke Water and Seat How

This trail is a three-in-one: it takes in Dalegarth Force, Devoke Water and Seat How, as well as covering lovely ground in between.

Both W&W praise the walk to Dalegarth Force (Welsh calls it Stanley Force, as do OS maps). Wainwright’s judgement: “Lakeland’s loveliest waterfall…..You have heard of sylvan beauty: it is here at Dalegarth Force” (7, p.22). Welsh simply says, “This short walk is a delight”. Who am I to disagree (in this case)? I think I know the reason for the confusion over its name. The Stanley family used to be the big cheeses around mid-Eskdale so things were named after them. Now deference has gone out of fashion, locals wish to replace their name with local names such as ‘Dalegarth’ (that word ‘garth’ again, referring to a wooded ravine).

Starting from Dalegarth Station, turn right, then left over Trough House Bridge and keep going to a cross-paths, ignoring two roads to the right. Almost immediately, you see a gate on the left with a sign saying ‘Waterfall’. Just inside, the National Parks Authority has provided a very helpful map (much better than the ones in W&W), which gives you the lay-out of the paths and bridges on the way to the waterfall. First, you pass through conifers with picnic tables; then you ascend a broad path alongside the stream, Birker Beck (Photo 1049).

Photo 1049: path alongside Birker Beck The path becomes narrower and enters a ravine with increasingly lush vegetation and dead trees and boulders in the stream. After perhaps 300m, you come to the first bridge (Photo 1052) and cross it to the left bank.

Photo 1052: the first bridge

Another 100m brings you to the second bridge which you cross to the right bank. From here you can see the third bridge, almost hidden in the foliage.

After the third bridge, the path becomes a bit precarious for 30m, stepping up large rocks beside a small but sheer drop, until you see the waterfall through trees (Photo 1062) and then closer up from a natural platform (Photo 1061).

Photo 1062: first view of Dalegarth Force

Photo 1061: Dalegarth Force from the natural platform

I have not seen enough of Lakeland’s waterfalls to dispute or agree with Wainwright’s judgement that this is Lakeland’s loveliest waterfall. I will only comment that this one is small but perfectly formed, as the Renault advert once said. Others are higher and in more dramatic surroundings but none that I have seen is more lovely. Its only rival in my mind (of course) would be the one on the Esk just above Lingcove Bridge (Photo 891, Spot 96).

You can escape from the ravine by taking a path between the third and second bridges that ascends its western side, passing a pile of logs that caught my attention and gave me a comfy seat for a rest. At the top of the hill, you reach a pile of boulders (Photo 1069) where you turn left on a smaller path to a gate out of the woods and onto the fells.

Photo 1069: boulders where you turn left

As usual, the National Parks Authority has done an immaculate job of providing safe paths that do not destroy the atmosphere of a place. Also as usual, the steps provided are too high for old people. Turn left out of the gate onto a track that goes up the higher reaches of Birker Beck. Here there is an awesome silence after the hustle and bustle of the ravine and the falls. From the track, there is a good view of Crook and Green Crags over Green How. You pass Low Ground and then High Ground after which there is another good view of Crook and Green Crags over fields (Photo 1075). Here, you turn right and soon cross the road over Birker Fell from Eskdale Green to Ulpha, where Devoke Water is sign-posted.

Photo 1075: Green Crag and Crook Crag from the right turn to Devoke Water

About two-thirds the way along this track, you get your first view of the tarn, by a large boulder (Photo 1076). You then slide across its eastern end beneath the crag called Seat How (Photo 1081).

Photo 1076: first view of Devoke Water

Photo 1081: Seat How from near the end of the track

The track leads to a jumble of rocks containing a cave and to an old boathouse, which helps photography no end (Photo 1090).

Photo 1090: Devoke Water with boathouse

Devoke Water sits in a basin of low hills at the end of the Black Combe Ridge before the ridge descends into Eskdale. It is surrounded by attractive features but none of them can be seen from the boathouse, just the tarn, a reedy promontory, a tiny island and the low hills, a pretty enough scene. To get a better purchase on the surroundings, I would have to climb up higher. I chose the nearest and easiest option: Seat How (on OS maps ‘The Seat’ appears to refer to the whole ridge running south-west from Seat How).

No easy way up presents itself on Seat How’s western flank but the map shows the eastern side is easy. On the way up, you get a good view of all of Devoke Water (Photo 1093).

As usual, from near the top but not quite on the top, you can enjoy the best views:

Photo 1093: Devoke Water from the base of Seat How

West – down the length of Devoke Water to the sea; there is a glimpse of the Esk Estuary, above which the ridge of Muncaster Fell rises until Hooker Crag is obscured by Water Crag, which would be my second choice for a good viewpoint

North-West – Silver Knott appears over the north slope of Water Crag with Sellafield in the distance; then some West Cumbrian Plain before the shallow green pyramid of Rough Crag takes over

North – down to the track before rising over the east slope of Rough Crag to the Blea Tarn Ridge, Miterdale Forest, Whin Rigg and Illgill Head

North-East – down the rest of the track towards Eskdale, whose floor is out of sight; in between, the terrain you have just crossed, with Green How prominent; in the distance, the usual panorama with some missing: Kirk Fell, a glimpse of Great Gable, Scafell, Esk Pike, Bowfell, Crinkle Crags and Hard Knott

North-East to East – past the summit cairn of Seat How to Harter Fell, Green Crag, the Coniston Range and Great Worm Crag

East to South-East – across the top of Seat How to the very green fields of Woodend, with White Pike, Caw and Hesk Fell on the skyline

South – down to the path from Devoke Water to Woodend; then bare fell, above which appears the very top of Whit Fell

South-West – the path from Woodend meets Devoke Water, with Woodend Height and Yoadcastle, hardly distinguishable from each other, above Without Devoke Water, the view would be average, when compared to the others I have described but this is a special tarn: firstly, its shape is just beautiful – more beautiful than all the others I have mentioned – its edges are not regular but proceed in undulating lines all around; secondly, it has the picturesque boathouse and a tiny island near its southern shore; thirdly, it clearly has a path all around it, not always the case with other tarns, so you can inspect it from all angles; and fourthly, it’s just the right size, not too small, not too big, although it is one of the bigger tarns. The most famous – and most photographed – tarn in the Lake District is Tarn Hows and, for me, Devoke Water knocks the proverbial spots off it.

Another reason I loved this spot is less judgemental and more romantic. In a cradle of grass on the very top of Seat How, I found the word ‘LOVE’ spelt out in carved red wood, with the date ‘12.09.2009’ in orange numbers on grey wood above it. It is not difficult to guess what happened here (I refer you to my diatribe at spot 4) and I got a real kick out of this romantic commemoration. I wonder if there is a five-year-old child somewhere called ‘Devoke’? Sounds like cool name to me (Photos 1100/1102).

Photo 1100: self-explanatory

Photo 1102: the ‘memorial’ in its magnificent setting – looking to Eskdale Horseshoe When you have recovered your rational mind, you can go to the cairn and plot your return journey. I chose to descend to the jumble of rocks by the tarn and pick up the path to Woodend, so appealing were those green fields (Photo 1103). I then planned to take the path from Brown Rigg on the OS map to Birkerthwaite and Low Ground.

Photo 1103: Woodend from Seat How – Caw to the left

Well, Woodend was lovely – but for a different reason, not so much for the green fields as for the houses. First, there was Woodend Farm, which must have one of the loveliest locations in the Lake District (view to the north-east as described above), as well as a charming farmhouse. Then there were several holiday cottages, one of which, Woodend Barn, seems permanently occupied and was outrageously pretty in a hippy kind of way. I especially liked the bath painted blue with ‘Woodend Barn’ and lots of flowers painted on it. The bath was overflowing with real flowers, as well. All around, there were lots of birds – and barking dogs - which had been noticeably absent since leaving Eskdale. Unfortunately, my camera ran out of battery here so I have no photos to show you.

A road continues from Woodend to the fell road already mentioned, with the pyramid of Caw on the horizon, like a mini-Bowfell. By the time I reached the road junction, my legs had run out of steam so I stuck my thumb out and got a lift from the second car that passed – my lucky day. I was dropped at the King George IV pub in Eskdale Green – you must try their apple pie and ice-cream with a pint of cold Guinness.

101: Boat How

Here is Wainwright’s verdict on Boat How: “….because of the greater appeal of the higher fells the summit is rarely visited, and truth to tell, there is nothing here to compete with its better-known neighbours” (9, p.178). Welsh also has a walk over Boat How but by-passes the top. For me, they are both wrong: Wainwright because I find the top a wonderful spot and Welsh because she misses it out altogether.

Start from the extremely pretty village of Boot whose only street houses a pub, a shop, holiday cottages (Photo 1109) and an old corn mill (Photo 1139).

Photo 1109: holiday cottage in Boot

Photo 1139: old corn mill in Boot

Go past the corn mill and up the slope for about 200m to a choice-point by a large, solitary tree (Photo 1138) where two bridleways diverge. Do you want to start with a low level walk up a valley and finish with a steeper descent (in which case, turn right through a gate); or do you want a steepish ascent first, followed by a more gentle descent through the valley (in which case, turn left)?

Photo 1138: right or left?

I went right and followed a rough, rocky path by a wall above the woods around Whillan Beck for about 1k before coming out to the open fell (by the way, the OS Landranger map is misleading: this path does not go through the woods but just above them). My main reason for turning right, though, was that I always prefer to walk anti-clockwise (you may notice that all these Eskdale walks are anti-clockwise, one-way or returning by the same route). The pagans call this going ‘widdershins’, i.e. in a direction contrary to the apparent course of the sun (The New Shorter Oxford English Dictionary); it just feels more natural to me.

Out on the open fell, you have Whillan Beck on your right, winding its way down a wide, somewhat bare, valley, earlier christened ‘Whillandale’ (spot 93). There is a ridge leading up to Scafell ahead and slightly to the right, while the apparent top of Boat How also comes into view on your left. It was immediately obvious to me why it is called Boat How (Photo 1112). Is it obvious to you?

Photo 1112: the ‘top’ of Boat How seen from the path up Whillandale

Photo 1115: Burnmoor Lodge from the left turn to Boat How

You pass a ruin on your left, which is where Wainwright cuts across to the summit, but I could see no path and anyway wanted to say hello to Burnmoor Tarn, another 1k up Whillandale. Once you can see Burnmoor Tarn, paths diverge – left takes you round towards Burnmoor Lodge at its south-western end, while right takes you down to its eastern shore and on towards Scafell or Wasdale. I went left to a point above Burnmoor Lodge where a path goes off left towards Boat How (Photo 1115).

However, I wanted to make a detour to see what was up at the lodge. It is now mainly lodged by sheep sheltering in its lee. Although most of its windows are boarded up against vandals, it still seems to be occupied occasionally, judging by the fresh calor-gas bottles outside. It enjoys a lovely, if somewhat barren, location just above the tarn, with views over to Scafell, Kirk Fell, Pillar, Yewbarrow and Illgill Head (Photo 1116). In the lodge enclosure (garth?) were six precarious trees straggling and struggling in the elements and protected from the sheep by wooden fences.

Photo 1116: Burnmoor Lodge and Tarn looking to Yewbarrow, Pillar and Kirk Fell Take the path towards Boat How (but first read to the end of this paragraph). Soon you see the top and realise there are two tops – the one you saw earlier is the lower one. The path misses the higher one by about 300m so at some point you have to turn right to reach it. I chose the shortest route when I was level with the ruin on the left – it took me ten minutes, treading between tussocks. Once at the top, I saw that there is a direct path from Burnmoor Tarn which I had somehow missed – perhaps you can find it. To add to my discomfiture, I was greeted by a cloud of midges (‘Smidge’ to the rescue). Once the midges had dispersed, I could make out the following through an early September heat-haze:

West – over Tongue Moor to Whin Rigg; Miterdale invisible below

North-West – ditto to Illgill Head

North – between the east slope of Illgill Head and the west end of Burnmoor Tarn to the east slope of Pillar, the Black Sail Pass and Kirk Fell

North-East – down the ridge of Boat How to Burnmoor Tarn with Scafell beyond; the peak of Great Gable peeks over the lower slope of Scafell; Scafell undulates down to Slight Side

East – over Upper Whillandale to Raven Crag and Great How at the northern end of the ridge above Stony Tarn

South-East – past the lower top of Boat How and over Whillandale to Eel Tarn, visible on its ridge, with Harter Fell and Green Crag beyond and the Coniston Range in the far distance

South – to Lower Whillandale and the pimple of Little Barrow, sitting above mid-Eskdale; in the distance, Birker Fell and the Black Combe Ridge

South-West – down the ridge of Boat How to the Blea Tarn Ridge; also down Miterdale to Muncaster Fell and the sea

This is one of the best panoramas in the Lake District, only lacking if you are wedded to the notion of including lots of high mountains. Its drawback for me is the barrenness of the foreground but, hey, you can’t have everything.

I wanted to check out the view from the lower top so came down in that direction but the view from there is not so all-encompassing: no Burnmoor Tarn, no Miterdale, less of the Blea Tarn Ridge but more of Whillandale. Now head south-west down the crest of the ridge on a small path between the two tops that soon peters out at the first rocky eminence you reach. Looking back from here, I could imagine six burial mounds but, no, these are natural – the real burial mounds are just round the corner.

Go down to the right of the rocky eminence to avoid a steep rocky slope and join a wider path that descends to the left of the crest of the ridge. If you want to visit a fourth stone circle (you are heading for the other three), continue along the crest. You can see standing stones about 100m south-west of a cross-paths about ½k ahead.

First, you come to two circles about 20m apart, one with ten, the other with eleven stones (Photo 1127). Each has a central stone or stones. Beyond the circles is a circular patch of ground with shorter, greener grass than its surroundings and a rocky plinth (Photo 1124), out of sight of the stone circles. I know this is unlikely, given the passage of time, but I conjured up people waiting here and being addressed from the plinth before proceeding to whatever was going on in the stone circles. Such are the imaginings of the lone walker.

Photo 1127: two stone circles looking towards Miterdale

Photo 1124: ‘plinth’ and circular patch

Take a path eastwards to find a much larger circle with at least twenty-eight stones (Photo 1129). This also has a, much larger, central stone (Photo 1131) and five circular burial mounds within its circumference, each with kerbstones and a central pit. It is unusual to find burial mounds within a stone circle. It is not unusual to find stone circles in a position such as this: on a ridge with great views all around. I leave further speculation to you.

Photo 1129: the large stone circle – two others and the patch are just visible beyond

Photo 1131: the central stone of the large stone circle

Continue the path from the first two circles beyond the third in the same direction (Welsh turns right here), veering to the right towards a stone hut in front of a tree about ½ k down the slope. On closer inspection, this turns out to be one of six old peat-huts, two of which have had their roofs restored (Photo 1132). The path down to Boot goes between the two roofed huts and provides a good view over to Little Barrow, Harter Fell and Green Crag (Photo 1134). You return to the earlier choice-point and the flesh-pots of Boot.

Photo 1132: the two roofed peat-huts looking towards Scafell

Photo 1134: Little Barrow, Harter Fell and Green Crag

One last question: was that hod reet fur Eshdel for you?

Photo 1406: the wooden sign referred to in the introduction to this chapter (copyright: Peter Pedley, www.perfectpicturecards.co.uk)

7. A. Wainwright, Walks From Ratty, The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Co. Ltd., c.1978.

8. A. Wainwright, The Southern Fells, Frances Lincoln, 2003.

9. A. Wainwright, The Outlying Fells of Lakeland, Frances Lincoln, 2003.