CA MBRIDGE C O U NTY GEOGRA P H IES

l : . . . U I L L E M A R I) M A ra M . D . G e n e G . . Ed itor F H H , ,

E A ST L O N DO N C A MB R I D GE U NI V E R S I TY P R E S S

R N E . . fl o nh o u : F E TTE L A E , C

Y M N E R C F . G . CLA , A A

QE t o o P R I NC E S S TR E E T h in hm g b : , H E R A ND S C . B er l in : A . A O F B R K H iLcimi g : . A . OC AU S P P U TN M ’S S O NS fil t h) 35 m : G . . A

'I M C M I L L AN A ND T D l l : CO . L . B umb a g a n!) L a r u t a A ,

A l l r i g/1 1s r es u med ’ Ca m ér zdg e C o u n ty Geog r a ph er

E A S T L O N D O N

F B O SW RTH G . O . ,

Wi t h M a s a n d Il l u s t r a t io n s p , D iagrams

C a m b r idg e

a t t h e U n i v e r s i t y P r e s s

CO NTE NTS

PAG E

o u n t Th o u n t . C y and S h i re . e C y of London T h e

“ r / O M 0 d La m o n . Its rigin and eaning

General C h aracteristics . Position and Nat u ral Con i W h d t io n s . y L ondon is o u r capital

o f G r o w t h . Size . Bo u ndaries . Develop m ent . History

London of t h e Ro m ans , of t h e Saxons , of t h e M Nor m ans . edieval London . St u art London O London Parks , Co m m ons , and pen Spaces i n t h e Nort h - east and So u t h - east

T h e River T h a m es . T h e Lea . T h e Ravensbo u rne . T h e B ridges and T u nnels Rivers of t h e Past—T h e Fleet and t h e Wal brook — T h e Water - S u ppl y of London Past and Present Geology Nat u ral History R O Cli m ate and ai nfall . G reenwic h bservatory and its Work — People Race . Dialect . Settle m ents . Pop u lation I nd u stries and M an u fact u res

Trade and t h e Gilds . T h e City Co m panies . T h e M ar k ets vi CONTENTS

PAG E

T h e C u sto m s and t h e C u sto m Ho u se . T h e Exc h an g es .

T h e Bank of England . T h e Royal M i nt — T h e Port of London T h e Docks . S h ippin g . S h ip b u ilding History

- Antiq u ities Pre h istoric , Ro m an , Saxon — a M . Arc h itect u re . ( ) Ecclesiastical edieval C h u rc h es W ren ’s City C h u rc h es

— ’ b t Arc h itect u re . ( ) Eccles iastical S Pa u l s Cat h edral

c - Arc h itect u re . ( )Ecclesiastical T h e Religio u s Ho u ses — W dl M . Arc h itect u re . ( ilitary T h e alls and Gates T h e Tower — 6 Arc h itect u re . ( ) Do m estic Palaces , Ho u ses , Halls of City Co m panies — Co m m u nications Ancient and Modern . T h e T h a m es

for m erly t h e Nor m al Hig h way of London . T h e T h a m es Water m en — Ad m i nistration and Divisions Ancient and Modern .

T h e City Corporation . T h e London Co u nty Co u nci l — P u blic B u ildings Legal . Ad m i nistrative . Hospitals

Ed u cation Pri m ary , Secondary , and Tec h nical .

Fo u ndation and Collegiate Sc h ools . T h e U niversity of London 2 1 ! R oll of Hono u r

T h e City of London and t h e Boro u g h s in t h e Nort h -east and So u t h - east of t h e Co u nty of London Area and Pop u lation

l n de x IL L U STRATIO NS

Entrance to London at M ile End i n t h e Eig h teent h Cent u ry

T h e Ar m s , Crest , and S u pporters of t h e City of London T h e E m bank m ent looking Citywards fro m C h ari ng Cross Ancient London and its S u rro u nding Mars h es Plan o f t h e City of London s h owing t h e Wards A View of London as it appea red before t h e dreadfu l Fi re i n 1 666 View i n Eppi ng Forest

T h e Lake , D u lwic h Park

1 8 1 Fair on t h e T h a m es , Febr u ary 4 Blackfriars Bridge T h e Po o l and London Bridge

L 1 ondon Bridge , 7 5 7

B 1 8 London ridge , 7 4

T h e Tower Bridge . T h e Strea m s o f Ancient London

C l i s s o l d T h e New River , Park

T h e London Basi n .

Bo s t a l l T h e Pi nes , Wood , Pl u m stead Sea G u lls on t h e E m bank m ent

’ C a n o n b u r ( ee n y Tower , one of b El izabet h s h u nti n g seats Greenwic h O bservatory T h e 3 0 - i nc h Re flector at G r e e n u ic h vi i i ILLUSTRATIONS

Spit a l fi el ds Great Synagog u e ’ - s S i t a l fi el ds Silk weavers Ho u se i n C h u rc h Street , p Ca m bridge U niver s ity Pre s s W are h o u se Pri nti ng - m ac h ine i n 7 73 6 Ti m es Offi ce

s Royal Ar enal , Woolwic h

’ Golds m it h s Hall : t h e Grand Staircase

Sm i t h fi e l d Meat Market . T h e C u sto m Ho u s e T h e Ro yal Exc h ange T h e Bank of England T h e Royal M int East India Docks Royal Victoria Dock s

Staple I nn , Holborn T h e Mon u m ent ’ Palaeolit h ic Flint I m ple m ent fo u nd i n Gray s I nn Road . Ena m elled B ronze S h ield

London Stone , Cannon Street

’ G il es s St , Cripplegate

’ s T h e Nave , St Savio u r Cat h edral West m inster Abbey

’ St Savio u r s Cat h edral , So u t h wark

’ St Du n s t a n s - i n - t h e - East St Cle m ent Danes

’ St Step h en s , Walbrook St Pa u l ’s Cat h edral fro m t h e S W ’ — St Pa u l s Cat h edral We s t front T h e Nelson Mon u m ent Pa u l ’s Cross T h e Te m ple C h u rc h

B a Sm it h fie l d St art h olo m ew t h e Gre t , I nterior of St Bart h olo m ew t h e G reat P lan of O l d London : s h owi ng t h e Wall and G ates ILLUSTRATI ONS i x

PAG E

L W a l l Re m ains of ondon near Postern Row , Tower i n I 8 1 8 T h e Gates of London T h e Gates of London and Te m ple Bar

’ St Jo h n s Gate , Clerkenwel l T h e To n e r of London T h e W h ite Tower Si r T h o m as More G r ee n n ic h Hospital

’ Ba y n a r d s Castle Sir Pa u l Pindar ’s Ho u se Crosby Hall

’ Pri nce Henry s Palace , Fleet Street London and West m i nster Ro m an Roads i n Ancient London

T h e Water Gate , E m bank m ent Gardens London Bridge

’ Traitors Gate , Tower of London Liverpool Street Station

Fleet Street , looking East T h e Mansion Ho u se Desi g n for London Co u nty Co u nci l O fii c e s M iddle Te m ple Hal l T h e G u ild h all T h e General Post O ffi ce St Bart h olo m ew ’s Hospital C h arter h o u se D u lwic h College City of London Sc h ool C h arles George G ordon ’ M Stow s on u m ent , St Andrew U nders h aft C h a u cer Jo h n M ilton x ILLUSTRATI ONS

Sa m u el Pepy s Daniel Defoe Dr Jo h nson

’ Dr Jo h n s on s seat at t h e C h es h ire C h eese

’ 1 Dr Jo h nson s Ho u se , 7 , Go u g h Sq u are Ch a r l e s La m b W ill ia m Hogart h T h o m as Rowlandson George Cr u iks h ank

Brooke Ho u se , Clapton , Garden front

’ s Gower To m b , So u t h wark Cat h edral Diagra m s MAPS

East London , Topograp h ical Geological Rai nfall Map of England

s . 6 2 2 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 0 T h e ill u trations on pp , 3 5 , 4 , 7 , , , 4 , 5 ,

1 I I I 1 2 1 1 8 1 1 6 1 1 1 1 0 9 , , , 3 , 3 9 , 4 , 4 9 , 5 , 5 5 ,

1 1 8 0 1 0 1 8 2 0 2 0 6 2 0 2 1 2 1 6 2 7 5 , , 9 , 9 , 4 , , 7 , 5 , and 44 are

C o . . 2 8 fro m p h otograp h s by Messrs Frit h ; t h ose on pp ,

0 8 8 1 a n d 2 1 s 3 3 , 5 , 5 7 , , 9 7 , 5 7 4 fro m p h otog rap h by Messrs

. . 1 6 1 . 8 8 j Valenti ne Sons , Ltd ; t h ose on pp 7 , 4 , 9 5 , 3 and 9 3

M r B r i ' 1 1 fro m p h otog rap h s by dg e n ; t h ose on pp . 6 and 5 8 fro m p h otograp h s by t h e Sport and General Ill u strations C o . ; t h at on 7 m p . 8 7 is reprod u ced by ki nd per m ission of 7 1 8 Ti es ; t h at on p . 7 4 is fro m a p h oto kindly s u pplied by Sir W . C h ristie ; t h ose

2 2 2 1 . on pp . and 4 are fro m p h otos by M r A Wire ; t h ose on

. 2 2 0 2 2 6 2 pp , and 3 4 are fro m p h otograp h s by M r E m ery Walker ;

s . 6 1 1 6 1 8 8 2 2 2 0 t h o e on pp 3 , , , 9 and 3 are reprod u ced fro m

La /o r i r m n l . zi u e Li t e r a y by t h e co u rtesy of M r T . Werner ; t h e

2 design on p . 0 0 is reprod u ced by kind per m ission of t h e

' f Bu i l di ng Ni w s . . 1 0 . p 5 , title of ill u stration

7 728 Ro a l Mi n t Tr i n i t Ho u For y read y se .

1 . Cou nty and S h i re . Th e Cou nty of

Lon don . T h e w o rd L o n do n . It s

Origi n and Mean i ng .

Th e mai n d i visions of our coun try are known a s cou nties, and , i n some i nstances, as sh ires . Wh en th e

t o word sh i re is used , it is added th e county name . For

o f instance , we speak the county of Kent , or of the coun ty of B ed ford but wh ile the word sh i re is not added t o t h e

t o . name of Kent , i t may be that of Bed ford Thus we

n o t write t h e county of B ed ford , or Bedfordsh i re , but th e county of Bedfordsh i re . Such an expression would be

f fo r e u i va super luous, th e word sh i re is now pract ically q

t o lent th e later word county .

A n o w lthough , however , we call all th e d iv isions of

is n o t England and Wales counties , that title h istorically

. a s accurate Some counties , such Ken t , Essex , and Sussex , are really su rvi vals of various ol d English kingdoms , and fo r m ore than a thousand years th ere h a s been but l ittle alteration eith er i n their boundaries or th ei r names .

a s - The di v isions now known B edfordsh i re , Hertford y

s o s /m r es sh i re , and Wil tsh i re are called because they were

B . E . L . 2 EAST LONDON

loo r n a or portions s fl from larger kingdoms . Thus B edford sh i re and Hertfordsh i re were shares or portions of a very

n M large kingdom k own as ercia, wh ile Wi ltsh i re was a share or portion of Wessex . It is not necessary to enlarge

t o furth er on th is d isti nction , bu t it is well have a correct

F o r i dea of th e origin of our counties . many years i t was A wrongly stated that lfred di vided England in to counties .

Th e statemen t is incorrect , for we know that some of th e

E ntran ce to Lon don at M ile E n d i n t h e E i g h teent h Cent u ry

coun ties were i n existence before h is time , wh ile others were formed after h is death . It may be stated h ere that th e obj ect of thus d ividing ou r country i nto counties w a s partly mil itary and partly fi t o nancial . Every sh ire had provide a certain number ’ o f t o fi armed men gh t th e ki ng s battles, and also to pay ’ o f a certain proportion th e king s i ncome . In each case a “ - f a s n o w sh ire reeve , o r sherif we call h im , was appo in ted COUNTY AND S H IRE 3 by t h e king to se e that th e sh ire d id it s duty in bot h A respects . fter th e Norman Conquest , th e govern ment

t o of each sh ire was handed over a count , and from that time th ese d ivisions have been called counties . In England th e d i visions or an cient counties numbered forty until th e year 1 8 8 8 . Th en i t w a s decided t o form

A o f r o the dm in istrat ive Coun ty Lon don , under th e p

A o v isions of th e Local Governmen t c t f that year . It is t o be noted th at al though London is th e latest of th e “ ” - o n e is forty counties , it not know n as an ancient

w a s county , for it constituted an adm in istrative area

o f o f M S from parts th e anci en t counties iddlesex , u rrey, and Ken t . Thus i t comes about that London , th e capital o f th e B ritish Empire , t h e greatest city in th e world , an d

M is n o w once th e capital of th e cou nty of iddlesex , an

A o dm i n istrative Coun ty with an enorm us population .

Th ere is another L ondon , wh ich is often called Greate r L ondon but with that we do n o t propose

t to deal , as tha enlarged area takes in many parishes and d istri cts that are outside th e boundaries of th e a d m in istrative county and exten d into Hertfordsh i re and

Essex .

t o L o n do n is Now with regard the name , th ere great

a s t o d iversity of opin ion its origi n and mean ing . We

n o t shall , however , be wrong if, in gi vi ng some of th e

o n Opin ions th is subj ect , we state that th e earl iest h istoric

o f it s L o n d n i u monumen t London is nam e . Th e word i m f A D . 61 a s o i rst appears in Taci tus under th e year . t hat f

a idu m fi o f an pp not dign i ed with the nam e a colony , bu t celebrated for th e gath erin g of dealers and commod ities .

I —2 4 EAST LONDON

It follows from th is early notice that L o n di n i u m must

A . D 61 have been founded long before . . H istorians h ave ’ come t o th e conclusion that the Roman oppi d u m w a s built o n o f th e site an earl ier Cel tic v illage , and that the name

L an di n i u m o f Ll n - Di n is probably th e Latin ised form y ,

i - e . . . th e lake fort

Th e A s s s t h e r m , Cre t , and S u pporter of City of Lon don

Some w ri ters have endeavou red t o ex plain th e name

is s o fro m oth er Welsh roots , but n oth ing u ncertain as

o - ff th e o rigi n f some place names . Geo rey of Monmouth th inks t hat London w a s called C a r r - L a d after a King

o f Lud Cel t ic h isto ry , and even some recen t writers have come roun d to th is view and s a y that London means

6 EAST LONDON

2 . Gen eral C haracteristi cs . Position N Wh an d atu ral Cond itio n s . y

London i s ou r cap ital .

There may be doubts a s to th e origin o f London and

i t s th e exact m ean ing of name , but th ere can be no doubt a s to i t s two thousand years of unbroken h istory an d that

T h e E m bank m ent looki n g C ityward s fro m C h ari n g Cro s s it exerts a great fascination over th e imagination of “ h a s o Engl ish men . It been wel l remarked that L ndo n h a s a charm all h er o w n ; i t is that of a h isto ry as romantic and as interesting to Engl ishmen a s that of

w a s As A A ncient Rome to the Romans . ncient Rome i ” w a s s o s . once , London now the cen tre o f ci vil isation GENERAL CHARACTERI STICS 7

I n th is chapter we shall do wel l i f we fi rst glance at

o f some th e gen eral characteristics of London , and th en pass on to consider its position , and why i t came to be chosen as ou r capital . Th ere are peopl e w h o woul d argue that London is a most unsu itable site for a capital , but we have t o remember that it h a s stood th e great pract ical test of centuries and h a s w o n i ts way to th e foremost place against th e com peti tion o f oth er ci ties that

ffi were o cially favoured . Th us York was the ch ief Roman centre of adm i nistration , an d Wi nch ester was th e ch ief city of Wessex and became the capital wh en the K ings o f Wessex were sup reme over all Englan d . It is sometimes easy t o gi ve th e ch a racteristics o f a

o f o f city or some place h istoric interest . B u t i n deal ing

a t o o f t w o with London we h ve th i nk at least cities, roun d wh ich have grown numerous towns th at would each be considered large i n th e prov inces . The vastness o f it s Lon don is so overwh elm ing, an d vari ety so amazi ng , that we are not surprised t o fi n d how d ifferently it is characterised by poets an d h istorians . Wordsworth was charmed with the sigh t of Lon don from Westmi nster B ridge , an d in on e of h is son nets exclai ms “ Eart h h a s not anyt h i ng to s h ow m ore fai r D u ll wo u ld h e be of s o u l w h o co u ld pa s s by A sig h t so to u c h i ng i n i t s m ajesty “ Byron looked upon i t as a migh ty mass of brick , and ” A “ smoke , and sh i pping . French writer calls it a ” prov i nce i n brick an d o n e of our o w n l iterary men ” characterises i t as a squal id v illage . Hei ne , the great 8 EAST LONDON

“ n o f a s Germa writer , gi ves h is idea Lon don a forest of houses, between wh ich ebbs and flows a stream of h uman f —a n aces, with all thei r varied passions awful rush of ” love , h unger , and hate . Th ere is some truth in each of th ese various attempts to gi ve an i dea of London , but of cou rse th ey are all short of conveying th e correct im pression . Probably no on e man i fo r s capable of giv ing a true pictu re of London , there

I t s are so many aspects of the modern ci ty . im mense population and the strange variety of races is sure to ' A h ave i t s e ife c t o n o n e class of observers . noth er class o f people will - b e struck w ith th e contrasts between th e pri ncely palaces of th e rich an d th e fi lthy hovels of th e

n fi a poor , or betwee the magn i cent squ res an d th e squal i d

i n o o t h e r slums . I n ci ty i n th e world is th ere such a striki ng. con trast between h istoric bu ild i ngs wh ich date from th e Conquest and th e modern structures o f stone and marble wh ich have supplanted th e wooden houses o f th e Stuart period .

Such , then , are a few of th e most remarkabl e charac — i t e r is t ic s of London as it is t o day . It s n o t possi bl e to deal furt her wi t h th is subj ect in th e present book , so we will proceed t o consider th e posi t ion o f London and what effect the choice of th e site of t he City by th e early

i t s founders had on su bsequen t prosperity . I t will be well t o look at an early map o f th e capital

o f sh owi ng th e marsh es on eith er side the Thames . We shall th en get some idea o f what th e Th ames w a s l ike in

B ri tish days . T hen t h e ri ver must have l ooked l ike a

w o u t broad lake , i t h h ere and t here a smal l island rising GENERAL CH ARACTERI STICS 9

w a s of th e water . Wh en th e tide was h igh , t h e ri ver

o f s ea l o w conve rted i nto an arm th e , w h i le at water i i t w a s a vast marsh th rough wh ich t h e stream wound t s

h a s way i n i rregular fash ion . It been estimated that at

An c i e nt Lon do n an d i t s S u rro u n d i n g M ar s h e s

o f o n least half modern London is built th is marsh , w h ic h extended from Ful ham on th e west t o Greenwich on th e east .

- o ff w a s In those far days, th e marsh th e resort of wil d fl duck , wil d geese , h ero ns , and oth er water bi rds , wh ich ew 1 0 EAST LONDON

A over i t i n myriads . l together we c a n picture th e site of London two thousand years ago a s a d reary and desolate fi place , an d on e of the rst questions that arises from th is ! knowledge is, How came Lon don to be founded on a marsh There are many reasons why Lon don was founded

fe w on the presen t site , and i f we consider a of them i t wil l h elp us to understan d i ts growth and development . O f course we are referring t o th e site of London as i t w a s

o f o r in th e time the B ritish foun ders, at th e period of

th e Roman Conquest . Th e evi dence goes to show that t he earl iest centre o f th e City was on th e east side of the

o f No w Walbrook at the h ead London B ridge . taking

u that d istrict as th e n cleus of the early city , we find that London was built o n th e first Spot going up the river

wh ere any tract of dry land touch es the stream . We

is also find t hat i t a tract of good gravel soil , well suppl ied t wi th water and not l iable o flood i ng . Th ese were most i mportant considerations i n selecting th e site o f a ci ty in

those early days, j ust as they are at th e presen t time . It will be seen that th is spot of good lan d w a s chosen

o n the ri ver Thames , wh ich was thus at once a means

of defence , and a h ighway wh ich coul d be traversed both

u p an d down by means of the B ritish boats . Th e site

w a s was not very n ear th e sea , and that fact also an

fo r advantage , th e small boats of th e B ritons could not

o f venture on t he waves th e Lower Thames . There is no doubt that t h e settlement was founded on a si te about

60 w a s n o t m iles from the coast , because i t open to attack

ea is from th e en em ies wh o came over th e s . It here wo rth mention ing that L o n do n and Tha mes are bot h Celtic GENERAL CH ARACTERISTICS 1 1

t o words , and are t h e o nly names remai ni ng i n t h is area remi nd us of the B ritish occupation . There is one oth er reason we may consider i n th is

w a s o n connect ion . London placed a tidal ri ver , and th us i t carried boats laden wi t h merchand ise o r passengers far

t o t o up th e river t he west , an d far down th e ri ver t h e

u e o f east . We may be sure that th e B ri tons made s

w h o th e ti de , and t h e Romans , had been accustomed

o f M to th e nearly tideless waters th e editer ran ean , soon

o learnt th e value o f t he ebbing and fl wing of th e Thames . Th us we may conclude that the earl iest site of London w a s on land about fifty feet above th e level of th e tide ,

fo r an d the position was adm i rably adapted defence ,

Th M a ki n w a s . e for it almost i mpregnable Green , i n g “ o E n l a n d f g , remarks that London , shel tered to east an d

o f south by the lagoons the Lea an d the Thames , guarded t o th e westward by th e deep cleft of the Fleet , saw stretch ing along its north ern border th e broad fen whose ‘ ’ name h a s surv i ved i n ou r modern dun w a s i n fact th e centre of a vast wilderness . B eyond the

t o marshes th e east lay th e forest tract of south ern Essex . A cross th e lagoon to the south rose the woodlands of

Sydenham and Forest H ill , th emsel ves but ad vance guards

To o f t h e fastnesses of the Weal d . the north th e h eigh ts o f H ighgate an d Hampstead were crowned with forest

- o x masses, th rough wh ich th e boar and th e wild wandered

o f o f w ith out fear man to th e days th e Plantagenets .

w a s Even th e open coun try to t h e west but a waste . It seems t o have formed th e border- land between two — B ritish tri bes w h o dwel t in H ertford and in Essex its 1 2 EAST LONDON barren clays were given over t o sol itude by th e usages of ” primeval war . Besides the geograph ical reasons accou nti ng fo r th e greatness of Lon don , there are also h istorical and pol itical reasons for its prosperity an d developmen t . B ristol an d

o n Li verpool th e west , and Plymouth an d Southampton o n th e south , are equally well placed , an d have enjoyed except ional facil ities for th e cul t ivation of foreign trade .

But , wh ile these an d other towns have been fettered by

o f n o th e action th ei r feudal lords, London has had over

i t s lord but the king . Th e Ci ty has always had rule over o w n district , and was not controlled by any outsi de power .

Thus i t comes about that London has d istanced all ri vals, such as York and Winch ester , and now stands without a B peer , th e capital of the ritish Empire an d th e greatest

o f city t he worl d .

. z . B 3 S i e ou n d aries . Devel op m ent .

H istory of G row th . Lond on of x the Rom an s , of th e Sa on s , of

N . the orm an s . Med ieva l Lond on

Stu a rt London .

A s we have al ready seen in a former chapter , Englan d 0 was formerly di vided in to 4 geograph ical counties , but in 1 8 8 8 i t wa s decided t o form th e A dm in istrati ve County

o f is o f London . The num ber geograph ical counties now 4 1 ; but England is also d i vided b y th e Local Govern

A c t 1 8 8 8 0 A men t of into 5 dm in istrative Count ies . Some

1 4 EAST LONDON of the larger counties were then div i ded into t wo or more

o l d 0 portions, and thus the i dea of 4 counties has become

n o t o f ff obsolete , and we now speak only Sussex and Su olk,

o f o f ff but also East Sussex and West Sussex , East Su olk ff an d West Su olk . It is well to make th is poin t qu ite ’ s o d n a s clear , that we may understan Lon don s positio a county . O f 1 the 4 geograph ical counties i n England , London is the most recently formed , it is th e most important , and

is A t it th e smallest in poin t of size . reference o th e d iagrams at th e end of th e book will illustrate it s area compared with that of Englan d and Wales . Lon don

o r 1 1 6 is con tains acres 9 square m iles, an d thus

o f . about fi g England and Wales Th e h eart of the county is called th e Ci ty of London , an d is about on e square mile in area . A glance at th e map of th e County o f London wil l show that it is an i rregularly—shaped area that has grown from a B ritish village of less than hal f a square m ile to

is o t w o it s present size . It d iv ided int unequal areas by th e many windings of th e River Thames : th e northern

is o M portion enti rely formed fr m iddlesex , wh ile th e south ern portio n h a s been taken from both Surrey and

t wo - fi Kent . Th e northern portion contains about fths

is of th e entire area , but in many respects i t the more

t wo impo rtan t o f th e d ivisions . Th e l engt h o f the county measured from Hammer smi t h o n th e w est t o Plumstead o n th e east is about 1 7 m il es , wh ile t h e breadt h from Holloway i n the nort h t o is I I Streatham in t h e south about m iles . It w ill be S IZE B OUNDAR IES DEVELOPMENT 1 5 not iced that th ere is a small portion o f th e county o n the

a s Essex side of th e Thames . Th is is kn o wn North

1 8 8 8 Woolwich , and before was part of Ken t although

o f actually i n th e county Essex .

0 11 fo r Except th e east side , wh ere i t is bou nded some m iles by th e R iver L ea , th e boun daries are not M b o n physical . iddlesex forms th e oundary th e north

o n an d partly on th e west , w h ile Surrey bounds it partly th e west and south , an d Ken t partly on the sou th an d east .

o B efore we g furth er , i t must h ere be stated that th e present vol ume on th e eastern portion of London

u o f i ncl des all th e d istrict east the boroughs of St Pancras,

o f Hol born , Westm inster , an d Lambeth , and has an area

acres . Th is eastern portion of London com prises 1 6 o u t of th e 2 9 boroughs i nto w h ich th e county is

o n d iv ided . Nin e boroughs in th e eastern portion are the north of th e Thames, an d the remai n ing seven

o f l ie south that river . Th e south ern portion is much

s o larger than th e north ern portion , alth ough i t is not i mportant , for we must al ways remem ber that , for many

a s centuries, London a city was only bu il t on th e north bank of th e Th ames . Th e l ine of di v ision that is chosen for th is volume is

is purely arbi trary , an d merely for purposes of con ven ience . I n th e eastern portion we get the City o f London wi th its surround ing boroughs, an d in th e western portion we have th e City of Westm inster and its neigh bou ring boroughs .

Lewisham i n th e western portion , and Woolwich i n t h e eastern port ion , are t he largest boroughs ; and Hol born i n t he w estern , and F insbury i n the eastern , are th e smallest .

S IZE B OUNDARIES DEVELOPMENT 1 7

Hav ing gi ven these facts and fi gures relating t o th e

o f f size of the present County London , we may brie ly trace its growth and development from th e earl iest ti mes . I t woul d be qui te impossible wi th in th e li mits o f th is book t o go into details ; but we can gi ve a few i deas as to its size and cond ition at th ree o r four turn i ng- poi nts in i t s h istory .

In B ritish ti mes we must fal l back on conj ecture , but we have also th e ai d o f geography an d geology . Th e facts that prove th e cond ition of th e earl iest

London are th e waste , marsh y ground , with l ittle h ills risi ng from th e plains , an d th e dense forest to th e north . Th e position of th e town on th e Thames proves

o f th e wisdom those wh o chose th e site , although th e frequent overflowing of th e river must have h indered it s progress .

c h ie f r es ide n c e U nder th e Romans , th e city became th e

o f of merchants and th e great mart trad e . Th e Romans probably bu il t a fort wh ere the Tower now stands, and afterwards th e walls su rround ing th e town were erected . Th en Londi n ium took i t s proper place among th e Roman

o f t o cities B ritain , for it was on th e h igh road York and

- f the starting point of most o th e Roman roads i n B ritain . Th e two ch ief events in the h istory of Roman Lon don are th e bu ild ing o f th e bridge and th e bu ild i ng of th e f wall . Th e exact date o th e bu ild ing of th e wall cannot

0 A . D . be gi ven , but we know that i n 3 5 it d id not exist ,

6 A D i 8 . t s wh ile in 3 . the town w ith villas, its gardens , and i t s A . o n townsh i p , was enclosed reference to th e map

. 1 61 i t s p w ill show the circu it of t h e wall , with gates an d

13 . . E . L 1 8 EAST LONDON

fort . London wi th in the wall occupied an area of about 8 0 3 acres, and was about 3 % miles i n ci rcumference . Th is Roman wall roun d London w a s o f the utmost importance

t o o in the h istory of th e city , an d even th is day it f rms i n part the Ci ty boundary .

Wh en the Roman legions left B ritain , London had a

o f very m ixed population traders . The i nhabitants were d efenceless an d at th e mercy of th e invader . Th e Saxons

o f conquered th e eastern portion England , and named i t

- Essex . London became th e capi tal of t he East Saxon kingdom . Saxon London was a wooden city , su rrounded

a s by walls , wh ich probably marked t h e same enclosure th e Roman city . I n th e seventh century th e city settled dow n i nto a prosperous place , an d was peopled by merchants

w a s of many nations . It was a free trad ing town , an d i t

o f also the great mart slaves . In th e eigh th and n in t h centuries it was freq uen tly harried an d desolated by th e

- it s o w a s Danes, bu t the great turn i ng poin t i n h ist ry i n A 88 6 A . D . , when Ki ng l fred restored i t and introduced a

fo r garrison of m en i ts defence . From th is year to th e

o u r present time , London has been in th e fron t rank of cities , and at the N orman Conquest it became , w ithou t a ri val , th e capi tal of England . Th e furth er growth

o f n o w and developmen t the city were very marked , and

Will iam I gran ted a charter to William the B ishop , an d

o s fr it h w h o is ff G th e Portreeve , supposed to be Geo rey de Mandev ille . I f we want to get further part iculars o f th e growt h of

t o London , we must refer our l iterature of th e fou rteenth and subsequent cen turies . Lon don places are frequently S IZE B OUNDAR IES DEVELOPMENT 1 9

P i er s P l o w m a n O men tioned i n ; wh ile ccleve , Gower , an d Chaucer are invaluabl e to th e student of early Londo n

L o n do n Li c h ma n t o is l ife . / y , attri buted Lydgate , a val u able record o f London li fe at t he end of th e fou rteenth

o f century . In i t are related th e adventures a poor Ken tish

o f u s t ic e man who went to London i n search j , but could not fi nd it for lack of money . Chaucer gi ves us many pictures

h is of th e London of day , and th e portraits o f th e pilgrims i n the Prologue t o The C a n t er b u r y Ta l es show us th e men an d women w ho were to be seen daily i n t h e streets of

Lon don . W f h en we come down to th e Stuart period , we i n d that London had about people i n the reign of

James I , and in t h e reign of Charles I I we are told that “ th e trade an d very City of London removes westward —fi and th e walled City is but one ft h of th e whole pile . Lord Macaulay made a special study o f th e state o f

1 68 h is London in 5 , an d th e following extract from H i st o ry of E ng /a n el gives a very pi cturesque account o f t h e cond ition o f th e Ci ty more than t w o h und red years “ a o : g . H e wri tes th us Whoever exam ines t h e maps of Lon don wh ich were publ ish ed towards th e close of th e reign of Charles th e Second w il l se e that only th e nucleus o f th e presen t capital th en existed . Th e town

n o t n o w di d , as , fade by im percepti bl e degrees i n to th e

o f country . No long avenues v il las , em bowered i n l ilacs and laburnums , extended from th e great centre of weal th

t o o f M and c iv il isation almost th e boundaries iddlesex , and

o f far into th e h eart Kent an d Surrey . In th e east n o part of the immense l ine o f warehouses and art i fi cial lakes

2 —2 20 E AST LONDON wh ich now stretches from th e Tower t o Blackh eath had

. O n been proj ected th e west , scarcely on e of those stately p iles of build ing wh ich are i n habited by t h e nobl e and wealthy was in existence ; and a qu iet

O n country vi llage with about a thousan d in habitants . th e north cattl e fed , and sportsmen wandered with dogs M and guns over th e site of th e borough of arylebone , an d over far th e greater part o f the space now covered

Finsbury and the Towe r Hamlets . Isl ington was almost a sol itude ; an d poets loved to contrast it s silence an d repose w ith t he din and turmoil of the monster London . O n the south th e capital is n o w conn ected with it s suburb

n o t fi by several bridges , inferior i n magn i cence and sol idity t o 1 68 e th e noblest works of th e Caesars . In 5 , a singl l in e of irregular arch es, overh ung by p iles of mean and

u o f crazy ho ses, and garn ish ed , after a fash ion worthy th e

o f naked barbarians Dahomey , wi th scores of m oul dering ” h eads, impeded th e navigation of th e ri ver . Lord Macaulay wrote th is interesting sketch o f Stuart

o 60 Lon don m re than years ago , w hen t h e population of ’ t w o M the metropol is was under m illions . Since acaulay s time London h a s i ncreased enormously both i n area an d population , and the contrast between th e early V ictorian London and that of to- day is al most a s striking as that

A h a s d rawn by th e great Wh ig h istorian . lthough a term

A c t o f 1 88 8 been put to its exten t by th e , i ts population h a s s e e increased , and , as we shall in su bsequent chapters , it s develo pmen t i n trade and commerce is also pro

i ve g r es s .

22 EAST LONDON

M A Commons, th e etropol itan Publ ic Gardens ssociation , n and various oth er publ ic bod ies and persons . Th e Londo Coun ty Council and th e City Corporation also o w n an d

maintai n forests , parks, an d Open spaces outside th e Cou nty ,

an d in some instances we shall specially refer to th ese .

Th e Government own an d maintai n Hyde Park ,

V i ew i n E pp i n g Fore s t

’ St James s Park , th e Green Park , Kensington Gardens, ’ Regent s Park , Greenwich Park , Wool wich Common , and

other smaller spaces . Th e City Corporat ion o w n and ’ main tai n H ighgate Wood , Queen s Park , K il burn , with i n

th e County and Epping Forest , Bu rn ham B eeches, and

West Ham Park outside th e Coun ty . Th e London

Coun ty Council are responsi ble for Battersea Park , LON DON PAR KS COMMONS 23

B o s t a l l o H eath and Woods , B r ckwell Park , Clapham M Common , Hackney arsh , Hampstead H eath , V ictoria S Park , Tooting Common , Wandsworth Common , treat ham Common , Wormwood Scru bs, an d many other open

o f tracts . They recently came into possession Hainau lt

o f Forest , a most beautiful piece woodland i n Essex and n o t a year passes wi thout o n e o r more parks and open spaces eith er being given t o o r bough t by the Lon don

Coun ty Cou ncil . Th e various Borough Cou nci ls mai n tain such open spaces as d isused burial grou nds , recreation grounds , gardens i n squares , and small commons . We can real ise w hat a boon all th ese parks and open spaces must be t o London w hen we remember that many Lon doners can n ever get far away from the ir place Of

To f o r . o work home all the year round thousands men , women , and ch i ld ren th e parks and Open spaces i n th e great city afford th ei r only place of recreation and gi ve

h a th em some i dea of what th e cou ntry is l ike . It s been a great advantage t o London to have th ese Open spaces fo r n o publ ic resort , for th ere is doubt that th rough them t h e love o f Londoners for flowers an d bi rds h a s been fi developed . Engl ish men have justi ably gained a reputa tion as landscape gardeners, and i n our London parks

s e e we may some good examples Of thei r art . It has been th e aim Of those w h o lai d o u t th e parks t o make A ’ th em as natural a s possible . walk in Regent s Park or Kensington Gardens will at o nce show what beauti ful

h a s tracts of woodland th ey are , an d what care been displayed i n preserv ing thei r natural characteristics . In most of the parks, certai n portions have been lai d 24 EAST LONDON

a s O f out flower gardens, an d th e varied colours the tastefully - arrange d beds form charm ing pictures for th e

fi n e wearied ci tizen . Besides th e trees and beautiful

Of flowers, th e Parks also have th e great attraction bird

o f . l ife , bu t th is we shall read in anoth er chapter

In some of th e London parks , perhaps , th ere has been a tendency to make t o o many straigh t rows an d formal

o f walks, bu t th is cannot be said the commons, or of such

a tract as Hampstead H eath . Th e commons have a

d isti nct charm in th eir natural beauty and in th ei r freedom , a s Opposed to the arti fi c ial character and restrictions o f t h some of th e parks . Th ese commons are also part of e

h istory of th e county, and take us back to the time when

n . a o th e land was tilled i n commo Not many years g , th ere wa s a desire t o bu ild over th ese commons ; but of ff late a better spi ri t is abroad , an d now every e ort is made

fo r th e preservation Of Open spaces in and aroun d London . In th is o u r eastern section o f th e Co u nty o f Lon don fi we nd that , north Of the Thames, the follow ing are

—C l iss o l d the largest Open spaces Park , Hackney Downs , M Hackney arsh , an d V ictoria Park ; and south of the

Thames, Greenwich Park , Woolwich Common , Black

B o s t a l l W h eath , Heath and oods, Eltham Common ,

Plumstead Common , D ulwich Park , and South wark

Park . C l iss o l d a s Park , better known Stoke Newington

h a s Park , th e great attraction of th e N ew R i ver , wh ich

winds round and th rough it . B ird and an imal l i fe is

fo r : fi specially provided th ere are some ne cedars , wh ile

o n e i s t o of th e thorns said be th e oldest in England . LONDON P ARKS COMMONS 25

Hackn ey Downs is one o f the lammas- lands of Hackney an d h a s o n i t s borders th e han dsom e sch ool o f ’ M th e G rocers Company . Hackney arsh , a great open

o f 0 space about 3 4 acres on th e borders of th e river Lea , h a s fi o f ff a ne expanse level su rface , an d a ords excellent

fo r h a s facil it ies cricket and foot ball . I t been declared to be th e fi nest playgrou nd i n th e worl d .

is V ictoria Park th e ch ief park of the East End , an d plays a most i mportant part in brigh ten ing th e l i ves Of th e teeming thousands w h o dwell i n the squal id streets o f th is

o f s o great d istrict . The area th e park is large that i t is possible t o provi de for n early every form o f out - door amusement and recreation . Th ere are special facil ities

fo r for bat h ing and swimmin g, and numerous p itch es A cricket an d oth er games . feature wh ich is very popular with ch ildren i s th e in troduct ion of animal and bird l i fe

o A n i nt th e park . aviary contains a varied select ion of

Engl ish birds, wh ile t here are goats i n a rockery by

fo r themsel ves , and an enclosure d eer . Part of th e area

2 1 of t h e Park , wh ich has an extent Of 7 acres , is laid

. O n out with walks , lakes , an d gardens th e lakes are

- swans and pl easure boats , and i n the middle of th e park is O f a memorial fountain i n th e shape a Gothi c temple .

1 8 w a s Greenwich Park is 5 acres in extent , an d lai d out by a Fren ch landscape- gardener i n th e reign of

Charles I I . Th ere are avenues Of splen d id Span ish chest

. O n o n e i t s nu t trees, stee p h ills , and green valleys of O h ills stands Greenwich bservatory , an d from th e terrace i n front of th is buil d ing and from oth er elevated portions of th e park , extensive and varied v iews over th e ri ver and 26 E AST LONDON

over Epping and Hai nault Forests may be obtai ned . Th is

t o park is a favourite resort of Londoners, who come admi re th e deer an d th e flowe ring hawthorns i n M a y

ti me . B lackheath is one o f th e ol dest an d one of the largest ’

2 6 . of London s open spaces, with an area of 7 acres It

forms an elevated plateau , fairly level except for the

extensi ve gravel pi ts, wh ich natu re has transformed i nto

grassy dells . Th e ot herwise bare appearance of th e h eath

o f is somewhat rel ieved by fine clum ps trees . Blackh eath ,

is wh ich crossed by Watl ing Street , th e Roman road from

t o Dover Lon don , has been th e scen e of many great events

o u r in h istory . It was i n olden times a noted place for

o n h igh way robberies , and fai rs were formerly h el d th e i . s Heath I t now ch iefly associated w it h golf, established 1 60 8 h ere by james I as far back as , an d football , and

- with th e enjoymen t of Londoners on Bank hol idays . 1 is Woolwich Common has an area of 5 9 acres, and i th e property o f th e Governmen t . It s used for exercisi ng th e troops and for rev iews ; but th ere is an open road

t o across it , and th e publ ic have free access i t except wh en i any part s required fo r m il itary purposes . O nly separated — from i t by th e road is El tham Common a m isleading

is name , for i t a long distance from Eltham and close

o 0 t Woolwich . It has an area of about 4 acres and

t o fli belongs t h e War O c e .

t o is Furth er th e east Plumstead Common , a fine Open

is - 1 0 . space o f 3 acres It a wide st retch ing , elevated M plateau , broken h ere and there by sl igh t depressions . uch

o f is th e common flat and bare , but some parts are very LONDON P ARKS COMMONS 27

f beauti ul , especially th e deep valley at th e east end

a known s th e Slade . B eyond Plu mstead Com mon are B o s t a l l H eath an d

s o f 1 Woods ( ee p . Th ese open spaces 3 3 acres are most attracti ve and , with the except ion o f Eppi ng Forest , are th e most syl van i n character of all London ’s parks and commons . Th ey are al most unknown to th e great mass o f o f Londoners, al th ough th ey are a favouri te resort those w ho f l ive near th em . Th ey are o considerabl e h eigh t and are crowned by stretch es of p ines and larch es, wh ile at every Open ing th ere are th ick clumps Of gorse and bracken , and i n th e sand ier spots th e purple h eath er an d ff red sorrel are seen with most pleasi ng e ect .

o f 2 D ulwich Park 7 acres, and B rockwell Park of

8 t w o o f 4 acres, are of th e most frequen ted th e open

o f spaces i n Camberwell . Th e beauty B rockwell Park

i t s consists i n wildness, for th ere are long stretch es o f undulating lawn , dotted h ere and th ere with fine

o n e t o specimen forest trees . Th ere is feature peculiar

is o l d th is park wh ich requi res mention , and that th e garden . When th e park was taken ove r , it was used as th e ki tchen garden . I t is walled i n on all four sides ,

- but the walls are covered wi th roses and frui t trees . Inside th e walls th e garden is lai d o u t i n th e ol d - fash ioned formal geometrical style , an d it is a pleasing specim en

o l d of the ki nd found at many castles an d halls . D ulwich Park was a free gift from th e Governors o f

is Dul wich College , and th e prin cipal entrance near th e ol d College Chapel , and close by th e famous picture A gal lery . Th e merican garden with i ts rhododendrons , 28 E AST LONDON

is azaleas, and roses a great attraction i n the season but th e ch ief feature of th e park is th e rockery planted with

A t o sh owy l pine and rock plants, wh ich are said be second only to those at Kew .

P T h e L ake , D u lwi c h ark

We can make only a passing reference to Southwark

o f 6 is is Park 3 acres , wh ich situated i n Rotherh it he , an d

t o a great boon th e people in th is crowded d istrict .

3 0 EAST L ONDON

“ as th e silver- streami ng Thames of frequent occur

h a s i t s rence , wh il e D enham su ng praises i n som e noble couplets

Oh c flo w s o u ld I l ike t h ee , and m ake t h y trea m

i s M y great exa m ple , as it m y t h e m e

T h o u g h deep yet clear , t h o u g h gentle yet not d u ll ,

’ fl wi n o er o . Strong wit h o u t rage , wit h o u t g fu ll

Th e watermen of London were long famous, and many were th e sports on the Thames that gave colour to

t h e l ife o f Lon don ers . Th ere are many re cords of th e h T ames being frozen ov er i n severe winters, and some of

e o f the Frost Fairs on th e ice wer considerable duration . ’ O n e of London s h istorians of th e sixteenth century gives us some idea o f th e plen tiful ness of th e fish caugh t in the “ Thames of London . W hat should I speak , says “ 1 86 Harrison i n 5 , of t h e fat and sweet salmons, daily

l e n t ie n o taken in th is stream , and that i n such p as r iver i n Europe is able t o exceed i t i Th e fi rst salmon of th e ’ season was generally carried t o th e King s table by th e o f A fish ermen th e Thames . sturgeon caugh t below London B ridge was carr ied to th e table of the Lord

M o r ayor i f above bridge , to the table of th e King Lord A H igh dm i ral .

h a s it s London had great pageants on river, and in Stuart times t h e D utch sh ips came o n i t s stream

al most with in gunshot of th e Tower . Queen El izabeth

d ied at Rich mond , and h er body was b rough t in great ’ t o o pomp by water to Wh i tehall . Nelson s body , , was carried i n great state by water from Greenwich to M Wh i tehall . any a state prisoner , comm i tted from

3 2 EAST LONDON

t o w a s th e Coun cil Chamber th e Tower , taken by water ; and we all remember that striking scene i n ou r h istory , wh en th e Seven B ishops were carried on th e t A Thames o th e Tower . lmost as a seq uel to th e last event , James II h imsel f fled from Lon don by water , and ,

o f t h e i n h is fl ight , th rew th e G reat Seal England into

Thames .

fe w Such , th en , are a of th e h istori c landmarks that draw ou r attentio n to th e ri ver that h a s mad e London t h e cap ital o f th e B ritish Empire . I t will be seen by a reference to th e map that th e

o Thames d ivi des London in to t w unequal portions . I t is navigable and tidal th roughout it s course th rough London ; and from it s sou rce i n th e Cotswol d H ills t o th e Nore th e

is 1 2 0 d irect length miles , although with th e wi ndi ngs i t is probably about 2 2 0 mi les i n length .

Th e Thames, or Tamesis as it was once cal led , is the earl iest B ritish ri ver men tioned i n Roman h istory . Its

is name , as we have seen , of Celtic origi n , an d its deri vation is probably th e same as that of th e Tame , t he Teme , and the Tamar i n oth er parts of E ngland . Th e upper part of

is th e main stream often called th e Isis , and not t he m Tha es, u ntil i t has recei ved th e waters of th e Thame

i t s n ear Dorchester i n O xfordsh i re . In upper cou rse i t fi passes th rough some of th e nest agricultural country , wh ile below Lon don B ridge i t is one of the most impor tan t commercial h ighways i n th e world . The Thames f begins to eel th e tide at Tedd ington , and from there to 68 th e No re , a d istance o f 5 m iles , th e tide ebbs and flows

o f four times in th e day . Th e fo rce t h e tide is very TI I E RI V ER TH AMES 3 3

great and its power can be well seen at Blackfriars B ridge ,

u wh ere th e water swirls round th e piers , and r sh es th rough

- the arches l ike a m ill race . The Thames enters th e County o f L ond on at

Hammersm ith , wh ere i t is crossed by a bridge . Th e western section of th e ri ver from th is p o in t t o th e Tem ple

B lackfri ar s B ridge belongs t o o u r second volume o n Lond o n ; we w ill therefo re begi n o u r j ou rney down th e ri ver from the Ci ty boundary to th e po i nt i n Wool wich w h ere i t ceases t o o f be a ri ver th e Cou nty of Lon don . It will be well ,

o f however , to bear i n m in d that th e j urisd iction t h e C ity o f o f London , and t he Port o f L ondon , extends much

B . E . L . 3 4 EAST LONDON

fu rther to th e east . Th is w ill be made cl ear i n a later chapter deal ing wi th th e n ewly - formed Port o f London A uthori ty wh ich takes th e place of t h e Thames Conser

h va e y B oard .

o In passing hu rri edly al ng th e Thames, we shall notice th at the north ern o r M iddlesex side is much more

o r S . i nteresting than th e southern , urrey an d Kent side Th e Thames Embankment o n th e north is one of th e greatest London improvements of th e n ineteenth

it s fi n e cen tury , an d w i th publ ic build ings forms a striking contrast t o th e w harves and quays on the Surrey bank .

- - I n mi d stream , th e ri ve r is crowded w i th coal barges and

every k in d of ri ver craft , wh il e moored close to th e

is B u z z a r d fi n e Embankment th e , a sh ip used by th e

Naval Territorials . Wh en we near Blackfriars B ridge ,

fi n e w h ich has been recen tly w iden ed , we get a v iew of ’ B o w h o w St Paul s and Chu rch , an d real ise the former

dom inates th e City .

We now reach Queenh ith e , th e old Ci ty land ing

so . O n place , wh ich was famous in Plantagenet days ’ O l a ve s th e Surrey side , Southwark Cath edral and St are very prom inen t and recall the fo rm er glories of the

o f Southwark and th e Banksid e Shakespearean times .

O u r n o w t o boat carries us London B ridge , the very

w a s begin nin g of Lon don , for h ere th e Thames fi rst

spann ed by th e Romans . Th e presen t ston e bridge is

o f a grand piece work , an d the five arch es take th e place

- o n e o f th e former twenty , wh ich acted as a kind of wei r .

fis h - o f B ill ingsgate , the market L ondon , is n ext noticed , and then t h e Custom House Quay wit h it s pigeons flying

3 6 EAST LONDON

overh ead comes i n vi ew . The Custom House is a han d

fi n e some build ing with columns on th e river front . “ ” n o w We are i n th e Pool , or that part of th e

Thames wh ich begins just below Lon don B ridge . Th is

i n o f is many ways th e most important part th e river, an d th e estuary is crowded w ith sh ips as far a s th e eye can i . s reach Th e Tower , square an d massi ve , on our left , an d we soon pass under th e Tower B ridge , th e last or A most seaward o f th e City b ridges . l ittle below t h e ’ Tower are St Kath eri n e s D ocks, enclosed by ware

u o n ho ses , and th ese are succeeded by th e Lon don Docks th e north , an d by th e Surrey Commercial Docks on th e A south side . l ittle below th e Pool , wh ere th e river takes an abrupt bend i n i ts course at Li mehouse Reach , is on e o f th e entrances to th e West Ind ia D ocks, an d furth er t south th e entrance o th e M illwall Docks . Th e West I nd ia Docks run righ t across th e tongue o f l and called th e

f I o . A s Isle Dogs , and open nto B lackwall Reach we pass down Li mehouse Reach we notice D eptford on th e r igh t . H ere th ere was a Govern men t Dockyard un til

1 86 is fo r 9 , but now i t notewort hy only th e Royal M V ictuall i ng Yard , and its Forei gn Cattle arket .

Leav ing D eptford , Greenwich Hospital comes i nto

” t o is view , an d th is monument th e gen ius of Wren seen t o great ad van tage from th e river . Stil l fu rth e r down th e

is A T hames Woolwich rsenal , th e largest Government O de t . ordnance p Th e ri ver below Wool wich , and nearly

t o i t s al l the way mouth , l ies between marshes , ove r

t o wh ich th e sh i ps appear be sail i ng across the grass, as

o n i n a D utch picture . O pposi te G reenwich the north

3 8 EAST LONDON

e Th e Rav nsbourne , i n i ts h igher cou rse, was once a beauti ful river , but now i t flows t h rough a very poor an d populous neigh bou rhood . Th e Thames as i t flows th rough th e County of

fi n e London is crossed by a number of bridges , from Hammersmith B ridge in th e west t o the Tower B ri dge

. An d t w o i n th e east yet , not centuries ago , Lon don

B ridge was the only bri dge over th e Thames i n Lon don .

is fo r It still th e most important , i t con nects th e C ity , ’ th e centre Of London s business , with South wark on th e

Surrey si de of th e river . Besides London Bridge in th e

o f eastern portion of th e County London , th ere are

Blackfriars B ri dge , Sou thwark B ridge , and th e Tower

B ridge .

O n o f accoun t its an tiqu ity and present importance ,

u r London B ridge must first clai m o attention . Th e fi Romans probably built th e rst bridge over th e Thames, an d it has been remarked that th e t w o ch ief events i n th e

o f h istory of Roman London , th e bu ild ing th e bri dge and

o f t w o o f the bui ld ing th e wall , are th e only events th e period wh ich had any permanent e ffect o n its later

fo r fo r existence . B ut th e wall , and but th e bridge ,

Roman London m igh t as well never have been bu ilt . Th is bridge o ver th e Thames w a s requ i red by th e Roman e roads , an d it is conjectu red that Claud ius cross d th e river M by t h e Roman bridge . ost h istorians assign th e build ing o f London B ridge by th e Romans t o th e year 7 8 ; but with regard to th is an d oth er kindred matters we l d sh all make reference i n a late r chapter . O London

Bridge crossed th e river j ust east o f th e presen t bridge .

40 EAST LONDON

For a long time i t w a s a wooden bridge with a fortified gate . Th ere is n o doubt that th e Saxons bu ilt wooden bridges over the T hames n ear th e site of th e present

o r bridge , but th ey were carried away by floods destroyed b A t 1 1 6 y fi re . l ength , i n 7 , H en ry II i nstructed Peter ,

M t o th e cu rate of St ary Colech urch , construct a stone

bridge at th is poi nt , but th e work was not completed till

A t o 1 2 0 . 7 chapel , ded icated St Thomas of Canterbury , was bui lt u pon the bridge , and a row of houses sprang up

s o on each side , that th e bri dge resembled a conti nuous

B i 1 8 London r dge , 7 4

street . It was term inated o n both banks by forti fied

o f gates , and on thei r pinnacles th e h eads traitors were

w a s exposed . Th is bridge one of th e ch ief sights of

w e r t h e i t s . a s n e v London , and poets sang praises It

fo r less very incon ven i en t , its narrow arch es impeded

l i o u o a s o f . s es n navigation , acting a ki nd wei r Th e each

side made th e passage narrow and dark . They were 1 removed i n 7 5 7 , and th e bridge altogeth er demol ished i n

1 8 2 . 3 Th e presen t bridge , designed by Joh n Renn ie ,

w h a s a s 1 8 1 1 0 . opened i n 3 , and was widened i n 9 4 It

fi o f o n e o f ve gran ite arch es , wh ich th e cen t ral has a Span TH E RI V ER TI !AME S 41

1 2 - o n 5 feet , and th e lam p posts th e bridge are cast from th e metal of French can non captured in th e Pen insular “ ” War . London B ridge d i vides Lon don in to above and “ a s s e e below bridge , and we look down the ri ver we

o — th e Port Of Lond o n . To th e Po l the part i mmed iately — below th e bridge s ea - go ing vessels of th e largest size have access . B lackfriars B ridge is a conti nuation o f Farringdon

Road , wh ich it conn ects with B lackfriars Road on th e

w a s 1 8 6 . Surrey side . It bu il t by Cu b itt , an d Opened in 9 Th e present bridge o f fi ve arch es occupies th e site o f a stone bridge , th e piers of wh i ch h ad gi ven way . It is an i ron structure , supported by gran ite p iers , an d from i t an excellent v iew Of St Paul ’s and some of th e City ch urch es m 1 0 a y be obtain ed . In 9 7 i t was found necessary to

o n o f widen th is bridge , and th e com pletion the work , i n

1 0 o 9 9 , tramway l ines were carried over i t fr m th e V ictoria

Embankment to th e Surrey si de .

’ is o n e o f R o n n ie s Southwark B ridge bridges , and was 1 1 Opened i n 8 9 . It has th ree i ron arch es supported by

ffi is n o t t o ston e piers, but th e tra c considerable owing the approaches . Th is bridge conn ects U pper Thames Street i n th e City with South wark B ridge Road on th e Surrey side . Th e Tower B ridge is th e last and most attractive of

w a s th e London bridges . I t designed by Si r H o race

M r W Jones and ol fe Barry , and cost over

o Th e money was prov ided by th e City C rporation , an d w a s 1 8 A the bridge opened i n 94. bridge h ere w a s much n M needed to con nect B ermo dsey w it h th e inories , an d

TH E RIVE R THAMES 43

o t o o als rel ieve th e congested traffi c f London B ridge . Th e d i ffi culty w a s to construct a bridge below th e Pool

t o that shoul d gi ve access the wharves and markets , and i t was surmounted by th e presen t remarkabl e structure , wh ich h a s a permanen t fo o tway 1 42 feet an d a carriage

2 » - way 9 5 feet above h igh water mark . Th e cen tral span of t h e latter is 2 00 feet l o ng and is fitted wi th t w o bascules or d rawbridges wh ich can be raised i n t h e space of two m i nutes t o adm it o f t h e passage o f large

. t o vessels Wh en th e bascules are raised , access th e h igh footway is gained by means o f l ifts and stai rs in th e

o n supporting towers , wh ich are raised piers from th e river

t o o f 2 6 bed a h eigh t 4 feet , and are connected with th e

— 2 0 o n ri ver banks by permanen t spans Of 7 feet , suspended massive chai ns hanging between th e central towers an d

o f smaller castellated towers on sh ore . Th e framework th e bridge , includ ing th e cen tral towers, wh ich are cased

o f i n ston e , is steel . Large electric bells are fixed at th e entrance to each approach , and they are rung w hen sh ips w are passing th rough , so that d ri vers may be warned h en th e bascules are bei ng raised . Th e bascules are worked

o f o by hydraul ic power , by means a powerful c un terpoise .

A 2 1 - o f 1 000 inch steel bar , wh ich bears th e weight tons , is th e pi vot o n w h ich th e wh o le works . B esides th e b ridges over th e T hames th ere are several tunnel s beneath its waters facil i tating commun ication

o o t w o between the pp site shores . Th e Thames Tunnel ,

o n m iles below Lon don B ridge , connects Wapping th e

o n w a s le ft bank with Rotherh ith e th e righ t . It plann ed 1 8 by B runel i n 43 , and carried to completion after great 44 EAST LONDON

ffi i s n o t ffi w a s di culties . It used for passenger tra c , for it sold i n 1 865 to the East London Railway Company to be used i n connecting th e Great Eastern an d North Lon don

Railways w ith those south of th e Th ames .

1 8 o Th e Blackwall Tunnel , Opened i n 9 7 , goes fr m

Blackwall on th e north side to Greenw ich on th e south .

I t is about m iles in l ength , and is th e greatest engineer

n u i ng work of th e ki nd ever co str cted . Th e making of

I th e tunnel cost over i mill ions sterli ng, an d it is a most

o f fo r i mportant means commun ication , being available t r a fli c of all kinds . Th e ch i ef feature as an engi neering

w a s e work was i n boring under the river , w h ich a com pl is h e d by means of a sh iel d forced forward by hydraul ic

o u t pressure , th e excavation being carried under com pressed ai r .

i h 1 02 is fo r Green wich Tu nnel , open ed 9 , pedest rians

t o only , el ectric l i fts conveying passengers and from th e

is 1 1 tunnel . It con nects Greenwich wit h Poplar and 2 7 feet i n length .

1 08 Rothe rh ith e Tunnel , opened i n 9 , gi ves com

i n m u n i c a t o between Rotherh ith e and th e north side . I t is a most important h ighway fo r both veh icular and

t r a fli c h a s 1 0 000 . pedestrian , an d cost about J6 , 7 5 ,

I n add ition to the bridges and th e tunnels, th e Woolwich Free Ferry connects Wo o lwich o n the south w i t h No rth Woolwich on the north , or Essex side . We may real ise it s value w h en we learn that i t is used by about peo pl e during the year .

46 EAST LONDON

Hampstead , an d th e oth e r i n Ken Wood between

H ighgate an d Hampstead . Th ese branches joined at a

place in Kentish Town Road , and th e river then flowed

down th e present Farringdon Road , Farri ngdon Street ,

T h e S trea m s of Ancient L o nd o n

and New B ridge St reet i nto th e Thames . Some of th e wells that gave th e ri ve r one o f its names were C l e r ke n

G o dw e l l . well , , and B ridewell For many years th e

w a s a s Fleet the western boundary Of London , an d i t afforded a water - way for some d istance inland i t was o f R IVERS OF TH E P AST 47

much val ue for trad ing purposes . In late r times , h owever , w i t becam e an o pen n o isome se er , and i ts banks were cumbered w ith th e rudest h ouses un til th e Great Fi re A swept all away . fter t h is a stone em bankment on eith er side Of t he Fleet enclosed its waters , and th e lower 0 part of th e river became a canal 4 feet wide , w ith wharves on bot h sides . Four bridges were bu il t o ver

—a t th e canal B ridewell , Fleet Street , Fleet Lane , an d

w a s n o t Hol born . Th e canal a success , for th e stream

o agai n became choked , an d nce more retu rned to i ts

- A s sewer l ike cond i tion . a resul t , th e part between

w a s 1 Holborn and Fleet Street covered over i n 7 3 7 , and th e l o wer part between Fleet Street an d th e Thames

1 6 . w a s m i n 7 5 Th e Fleet D i tch , as i t someti es called , is often mentioned i n the annals of London , and i ts name survi ves i n th e presen t Fleet Street , one of th e busiest thorough fares o f th e Ci ty . Th e Wal brook wa s formed by th e junction o f two

o M o o r fi e l d streams wh ich rose i n H xton and i n s . I t entered th e City th rough a culvert a l i ttl e to th e west of London Wall , crossed Loth bury , and passed under th e present Bank of England , and th ence across th e Poultry .

n o w It d i d not ru n down th e street called Wal brook ,

o f i t s but on th e west side it , and so made way to th e ’ ’

A o i n e r . l Thames between Friars lley an d J s H a l . Th e

h a s outfal l been changed , and t h e stream n o w runs under

fi it s t o Do w a t e Walbrook , and nds way th e Thames at g

Wharf. Th e banks of th e Wal brook were evidently a

o f t h e fo r favou rite place for t h e v i llas wealthy Romans , m b e e n it s any Roman remains have found along course . 48 EAST LONDON

It is worth noti ng that two low h ills stood on either side “ ” w a s of th e Wal brook , an d i t on th e western dun that

w a s fi h a s Lon don rst bu ilt . Th e bed of th e Walbrook been frequen tly found in recen t City excavations . I t w a s ff crossed by many bridges , and probably a orded th e

- w a s first water supply of London . It an important factor in th e d iv ision of th e City i nto wards an d also i n

o f th e lay ing out the streets .

= — 7 . T he Wa t e r S u p p l y of Lond on Past

and Present .

Th e water - supply o f a great city is of th e utmost

fo r i mportance , on its good quality and constan t flow depen d largely th e h eal th an d h appi ness of its people . I n considering th e supply of water t o London we must remember that ancien t Lon don an d th e many parish es n o w comprised i n th e modern cou nty arose on sites wh ere a su pply of good d rinki ng- water could read ily be obtained from natural springs and brooks , or by means of

o n wells . Th e earl ier settlements were made th e tracts of gravel and sand , and th e growth of Londo n was regulated fo r a long period by th e d istri bu tion o f th ese

- water beari ng strata . Th us we find t hat th e City

t o C h e l s ea K e n s i n t o n a n d ex panded westwards , g , Hammer sm ith ; south wards to Clapham and Camberwel l ; east wards t o Bow an d Hackney ; and northwards t o Isl ington .

n Such d istricts as Camden Town , Ke tish Town , and Kil burn were not populated u ntil a supply o f drinking

w a s water from a d istance brough t i n conduits . TH E WATER - S U P PLY OF LONDON 49

is m 1 68 0 t o 1 8 0 It a matter of h istory t hat , fro 4 , some o f th e London wells and springs attai ned fame a s h oly wells and spas . Th us we read of Beulah S pa , B ermondsey ’ Spa , Isl ingto n Spa , Holywell , Cl erkenwell , an d Sadler s

Wells, wh ile at Well Walk , Hampstead , a chaly beate fi spring w a s util ised un ti l qu ite recen tly . Th e rst con duit fo r w a s th e supply of water to L ondon t hat of Tyburn ,

1 2 w wa s wh ich was com pleted in 3 9 , h en water conveyed in l eaden pipes t o th e City . Much water w a s also

1 8 2 Obtained i n buckets from th e ri ver , and i n 5 th e supply was faci l itated by means o f water - wh eels attach ed A to th e arches o f ol d London B ridge . fter a wh ile wooden conduits we re used , and a more extended system o f supply t o houses w a s i ntroduced . In open ing some of th e London streets i t is no uncom mon th i ng t o find these wooden conduits a s th ey were placed a long time

’ o o f o f a g . Some these rel ics t h e early ti mes o f London s w - o ater supply may be seen i n vari us museums .

o f W ith th e growth of London , th e su ppl ies water from th e gravel soils became con tami nated , and th e wate r of t h e Thames n ear London B ridge was very bad . From

t o 1 8 the close of the seventeenth century and o nwards 5 5 , compan ies were formed for taking water from the

Thames near Charing Cross, an d h igher up ; but since

n o that year , water has been d rawn by any com pany w from the Thames belo Tedd ington Lock . S i r H ugh Mydde l t o n w a s t h e pioneer in bri nging

. 1 608 b e water to London from a d istance In , com m e n c e d th e cuttin g of th e New R i ver and five years

fi w a s later th is arti cial chan nel completed . A s a resul t

E . L B . . 5 0 EAST LONDON of h is efforts th e New R i ver Company w a s formed i n

1 61 t o o f 9 , and down th e present century i t has been th e greatest serv ice to London , su pplyi ng an abundant quantity of excellent water from th e R i ver Lea and

a s from springs i n the Chalk , as well from deep wells sunk into th e Chal k .

Th e i C l i s s o l d P a N ew R ver , rk

Many artesian wells have been sunk th rough the

Lon don Clay i nto th e Lower Tertiaries and Chalk , and , 1 0 si nce 7 9 , breweries an d other large establ ishmen ts have

n o used th is means of o btain ing th eir water . O e f th e d eepest borings th rough th e Chal k i n th e London Basin is that at Kentish Town , wh ere various beds have been passed th rough to a depth o f o ver 1 3 00 feet . TH E WATER - S U P P LY OF LONDON 5 1

Th e water- su pply o f Lon don and th e surround ing d istricts is now con trol led by th e Metropol itan Wate r

1 02 w a s Board . B efore th e year 9 , th is great area suppl ied b y e igh t Londo n Water Com pan i es ; but by an A c t passed i n that year the Water Board was created for t he purpose of purchasing and managing th e u ndertakings o f t hose

M is compan ies . Th e etropol i tan Water B oard area much greater than that o f th e County o f London and exten ds S from Ware in H ertfordsh i re to Esh er i n urrey , and from

o Rom ford i n Essex t Ch even ing i n Ken t . Th e Metropol itan Water B oard i n 1 9 08 had t o supply a population of more than persons , an d to del i ve r a daily average of gallons . Th e whole of th is water is obtained from the Thames and th e

Lea , and from various springs and wells i n th e l ocal i ty

60 1 Th e water mains have a total length of 4 m iles , and the water th ey b ring to th e vast population o f London an d its env i rons is of a very h igh standard of excellence an d purity . Th e great faul t of th e water suppl ied over th is area “ ” is hard ness , that is , that i t contai ns a quantity o f

o b icarbonate of l ime , yet it is well kn wn that many o f

is th e h ealth iest d istricts are those w it h hard water . It th is hardness o f chalk waters wh ich furs o u r kettles and wastes our soap ; but it is not easy in th e London area

t o fo r obtai n oth er than hard water , much of it is derived

from wells i n th e Chalk . 5 2 EAST LONDON

8 . Geol ogy .

is I n geological language , London said to be situated “ ” “ ” — h a s in a basi n th e London Basin . Th is basi n been carved ou t o f th e System belonging to t he early Tertiary

period wh ich is call ed Eocene . Th e sol id foundation i s composed of th e Chalk , a Secondary formation here

about 600 feet th ick . Th is i t is w h ich really constitutes

th e London Basi n , wh ose broad ri m comes to th e surface

o - i n th e Ch iltern H ills i n th e north and n rth west , an d A i n the North D owns on th e south . l th ough th e Chalk

- may be called the basemen t rock of th e London Basin , yet wells have been sunk i n th e m iddle of that area to s o great a depth a s t o pass th rough i t in to th e beds

below . F o r th e pu rpose Of th is chapter we may commence our

description of th e rocks under London with th e Gault , th e formation that occurs al most u niversally i n th e London

Basin below th e Ch al k . Th e Gaul t is a mari ne deposi t ,

an d seems to have been deposi ted i n a moderately deep ,

- s e a n o t o . I t quiet , and along a sh re l ine is a bluish clay an d varies i n th ickness from 1 3 0 t o 2 00 feet at suc h

d eep bori ngs as those at Tottenham Court Road , Kentish

M . Town , and ile End A i s bove th e Gaul t the U pper Greensand , wh ich is

o f also o f mari ne origin . It consists clayey green san d

1 0 t o 0 . varyi ng in th ickness from 3 feet I n all cases , i t h a s been found in th e same deep bo rings a s the

Gaul t .

5 4 EAS T LONDON Th e Woolw ich and Readin g B eds are a group of

o f 60 o r clays an d sands hav i ng a th ickness feet less . Sh ells o f an estuari ne character are found in the clay and th is fact proves that th e beds were deposited at or n ear

o f th e mouths of streams . Sections th ese beds may b e

o seen at W ol wich , Charlton , an d Lewisham . Th e Ol dh a ve n an d B lackh eath B eds consist mostly

- O f fi n e of a bed of perfectly rolled fl in t pebbles, in a base ,

- i a s . s sharp , l igh t coloured sand Th e th ickness as much

0 o . 5 feet , an d f ssils are met with i n parts Interesti ng open sections o f th e B lack h eath B eds may be seen at

No r t h Wo b u r n Ha mp s t ea d Do wn s Wea Id

T h e L o n don B a s i n

B o s t a l l El tham , Heath , Wool wich , Plumstead Common ,

and Black heath . O verlying th e last beds is a great mass of clay known A n i as London Clay . lthough th is formatio takes t s name

t o from the metropol is, i t is well remember that i t extends from Marl borough o n th e west to Yarmouth o n th e

- o north east . I n th e neigh bourhood of L ndon the Clay i 0 s 0 . 4 feet th ick , an d many fossils have been fou nd in it Th e London Clay forms a very broad band right th rough

— t o — the London area from south west north east , and

excellen t sections may be seen at Pl umstead Com mon ,

Ham pstead , and H igh gate . 1 GEOLOGY C 5 A bo ve the London Clay come a gro up o f sands w h ich may be comprised under t he name Bagshot Beds . A s a wh ol e th ey form a more o r l ess barren sandy tract

is o of rising groun d , w h ich partly pen , but sometimes covered wi t h fi r an d larch . Th e h il ls of Ham pstead an d H ighgate are perhaps th e most prom i nent h eigh ts i n north

b il l s Londo n , and although th e Bagshot B eds cap these , it must be remembered that th ei r longer slopes are of

London Clay .

o I n the Lond n Basin , after the Bagshot B eds , we

t o come a great gap i n th e series of geological formations .

Th e beds j ust named are Eocene , an d we find noth ing more

o f til l we are al most out th e Pl iocene Period . Gravels, sands, and clays are found at various levels dow n n early

o f s e t to t h e presen t level th e Th ames , and th is newer of d eposi ts may be classed under th e term D ri ft . Th e B oulder Clay is one o f the m o st i m portan t of these ff deposits . It is sti and tenacious, and often studded w ith

o f pieces of Chalk . Good sections th e B oulder Clay are rare but i t can someti mes be seen i n temporary open i ngs and i n roadside sect ions an d ponds .

a s Passi ng over some deposits known B rick earth , and

t o Valley or R ive r Gravel , we come th e last and newest

o f A deposits th e d istrict . Th ese lluv ial D eposits are con fined t o th e very bottoms of the valleys i n wh ich

o f - rivers run . Th ey comprise t h e strip marsh land or A lluv ium wh ic h fringes th e ri ver o ver small areas above

London , and over broade r t racts i n southern Essex and north ern Kent . Th e A lluv ial D eposits are from 1 2 to

2 0 Ol d feet th ick , and th e ri ver mud Often contains bones 5 6 EAST LONDON o f a s th e ox , deer , an d elk , well as i mplements of ston e , bronze , and i ron . W It is adv isable t hat , h ile readi ng th is chapter , constant reference should be made t o the geological map at the en d of th is vol ume . Th e reader is also adv ised to i M pay a v is t to t h e G eological useu m at Jermyn Street , wh ere there is a large model of L ondon an d th e n eigh b o u r h o o d is o n 6 t o . It th e scale of i nch es th e m ile , and

i t s owing to great size is i n n i ne sections . I t represents an area o f 1 65 square m iles and gives an excel len t idea

o f of the geological structure Lon don .

N 9 . atu ra l H i story .

A mong all th e Engl ish counties, London h as least to

o f A attract th e lover natu ral h istory . lmost its enti re

o t o area is gi ven ver bricks and mortar , an d outside th e parks and open spaces t here are fe w places wh ere th e flora an d fauna can be stud ied in th e same way as in the neigh bouring counti es of Essex , Ken t , an d Surrey . There are tracts in th e north an d i n th e south - east and south

u l a t io n is s o a s west where th e po p , n o t dense i n central

Lon don , but even i n those d istricts streets are bei ng made every year , wit h the conseq uen t destruction of plant and a n im a l l i fe . It would al most be easi er to wri te about the trees and fl owers i n Lond o n many years ago than o f those at th e

fo r i t s p resen t time . L ondon was once famous t rees an d NATURAL H ISTORY 5 7

flowers . V inegar Yard , Covent Garden , was the v ineyard

ff w a s of Coven t Garden . Sa ron H ill once covered w i th

r e d saffron . Th e and w h ite roses o f York and Lancaster

u were pl cked in th e Temple Gardens, and Dan iel th e

P s B o s t a l l W P T h e i ne , oo d , l u m stead

poet , in th e reign of El izabeth , had an excel lent gard en l d ’ O . i n Street , St L uke s Gerard th e h erbal ist in th e same reign had a ch oice assem blage of botan ical Specimens h i i n s garden at H olborn . 5 8 EAST LONDON

Th e flora of th e south - east and south - west of th e

o f t o county London is sim ilar that of Kent and Surrey .

o - I f a en n i n a Th e blue wo d anemone ( . p ) was formerly a bundant as an i ntroduced plant i n Wi mbledon Park , but

n Ci u t a v i r o sa is o w extinct . Th e cowban e ( e ) formerly 1 grew by the Thames at B attersea . Gerard ( 63 3 )records M that th is plant grew in oor Park , Ch elsea, but of course

s e a - A Tr i o l i u m it is no longer foun d th ere . The aster ( . p ) grew by the Th ames n ear B attersea , but it , too , is no longer a plan t of th e county .

Furze , broom , briars , bracken , and h eath are abundan t on

n Barnes Common , and on Putney H eath and Wimbledo

Common th ere grows scrub of stunted oak , of hazel ,

o f W b irch , an d sallows, w ith plen ty tall fu rze . andsworth

Common now grows noth i ng unusual , bu t formerly its ’ - St r a t i o t es a l o i a es Special ity was the water sol dier ( ), wh ile

w a s Sen ec i o v i seo su s Streatham Common famous for . Th e Pl umstead Marsh es and th e flats below Woolwich and towards Erit h have now been d rai ned an d put under A pastu rage . quatic plants , bot h rare and ord inary , grew

b u t h ere i n great variety and abundance , they h ave now Of al most d isappeared . I n th e north the coun ty

is Hampstead H eat h th e ch ief open space . Th e ground is th ere broken i n to pits and h illocks, and much bracken

grows , with a few wh ite an d black th orns . Th ere is o n e surv i val i n London wh ich is worth a

A is passing n otice . djo i n ing th e Chelsea E mbankment th e Physic Garden founded i n 1 67 3 and p resented by S i r Hans Sloane i n 1 7 2 2 t o th e Society o f A poth ecaries on co nd ition that 5 0 n e w varieties o f plants grown i n it NATU RAL H ISTORY 5 9

t o should be an nual ly furn ished t he Royal Society , u nt il

t o 2 0 w a s th e numbe r so presented amounted 00 . It

i t s t o famed fo r fin e cedars , th e first be grown i n

n o England . Th ey are now longer ex isten t , t he last 1 hav ing died i n 9 04. Th e great botan ist L in naeus visi ted 1 6 w th is garden in 7 3 , an d Kal m t he S ed ish natural ist

1 8 . o f i n 7 4 Towards th e en d th e last century , th e A pothecaries Society being n o l o nger desi rous o f main

w a s tain ing th e garden , i t vested i n th e London Paroch ial

1 A o f w a s Charit ies i n 8 99 . comm ittee management

o f appointed , and as a result th is change many improve ments h ave been made . Th e plan t houses have been

- fi t t ed rebuil t , an d a well laboratory and lectu re room erected . Th e place is now used by studen ts of th e

o f Royal College Science , an d members of various sch ools and polytechn i cs . Courses of ad vanced lectu res i n Botany are arranged by th e U niversity of London ; and specim ens are suppl ied t o the p rincipal teach i ng an d exami n ing bod ies i n th e metropol is . It is very noticeabl e wh en houses are cleared away i n London , an d th e space remai ns d erel ict for a time ,

o f th at all ki nds plan ts w i ll grow an d flou rish . I n 1 9 09 th ere was a large tract o f waste grou n d o n th e north o f

w a s th e Strand , an d in th e mon th of July the area a blaze of purple . A m id th e mass of vegetation that had sprung up th ere were el der , ch erry , loosestri fe , a few plants of willow herb , a great crop of rape , and h ere and th ere

w a s a t h istle . In a sh ort space of time i t not d i ffi cult t o ff fin d as many as twenty d i erent species , an d th e q uestion a rose h ow th ey came to grow i n such an unl ikely spot . 60 EAST LONDON

A i r - e born e seeds, such as dandel ion , s ttled in th is area ffi and grew wi th l ittl e di culty . O ther seeds wer e carried to Al dwyc h i n the hay or chaff gi ven to horses at t h e ti me wh en th e build ings were being demol ish ed and th e é d bris carted away , wh ile th e elder and cherry were

probably brough t by b i rds . Th e parks an d open spaces of London are the haun t each year o f a far larger variety o f w ild bi rds than is gen erally supposed . It is only during the great m igration t imes i n sprin g an d early autumn th at a ful l idea can be obtai ned of th e large number o f species wh ich pause for a few hours i n th e ch ief London parks a s th ey seek or

- A leave thei r summer n estin g places . mong th ese passing

t o v isitors Lon don are th e wh eatear , th e redstart , th e

t h e . sand pi per , th e k ingfish er , and great crested grebe Th e wh eatear an d th e brill ian t ki ngfish er are by no means unknown i n Hyd e Park and Kensington

Gardens .

B esides those birds w h ich , i n Lon don , are essentially

o f b irds passage , th ere are many birds wh ich are regular residents for th e whole or part of the year , and th us save

L o ndon from th e reproach of being a b irdless county .

fi n d Th ere are some , indeed , wh ich greater security in

n o f c o n London than in the country . O e th e most s ic u o u s o f is p exam ples th is class th e carrion crow , wh ich is common in some o f th e parks an d squares , more especial ly i n Kensington Gardens . Th e crow i n L ondon

’ o maintains a steady h ostil ity to r oks, and th e G ray s In n

h a s s o rookery been harried of late years by the crows , t hat th is famous col ony is gradually d im in ish ing and

62 EAST LONDON is n there v iewed w ith a tolera ce , an d even with a

ff is n o t sentimental a ection , wh ich extended to h im i n

h e th e country . I n Lon don is ubiquitous, and seems t o fi n d a sat isfaction in placi n g h is n est in th e most

- ri diculous positions . Th e song th rush and blackbi rd often si ng more v igorously in Lon don duri ng th e winter than

i . n most places i n the Open country Swallows, martins, and sand - martins are sometimes seen in considerable

o n nu mbers th e Roun d Pond , and on th e Serpen tine , fl especially in col d and frosty A prils . Th e spotted y

’ catch er attem pts t o n est every year in Hyde Park and

- o n Kensington Gardens , and th e reed warbler occurs th e

London l ist , for i t sometimes pauses on migration in the f th ickest o th e reeds at th e h ead of th e Serpentine . Perh aps th e most striki ng example of a recent add ition t o th e bi rds of London is t h e annual winter v isi t of th e

- black h eaded gulls , wh ich haunt th e Thames and th e M ponds i n the parks from O ctober until arch . Th e flocks i nclude from time to time a few gulls of oth er

m ni o n s t c o e . ki nds , th e h erring gulls being Th e gulls fi rst v isi ted London i n large num bers i n th e hard frost 1 8 of 9 5 , and h ave never sin ce abandoned i t . Still more

is remarkable , h owever , th e int rod uction of that most

- wary of all coun try bi rds, th e wood pigeon . U nknown a few years ago n ot only i n London but i n i t s near 1 8 neighbourh ood , th ey became establ ish ed about 9 5 and

h ave remarkably i ncreased . They have become ext remely

tame and may be seen feed ing i n dozens i n the parks,

an d even in th e roads . Th e ornamental waters i n th e parks are s o well

64 EAST LONDON stocked with d i fferent breeds o f ducks t hat i t i s i m possible to say t o what extent th ey are frequented by genu in e

- is n o wild fowl . Th ere doubt , h owever , t hat such

o f 00 v isitants are considerable . Th ere are u pwards 4 w ild—fowl i n th e splen d i d collection at St James ’s Park

o n wh ich breed D uck Island . Th e herons, whose wings 1 0 8 are cl ipped , have been th ere si nce 9 , and besi des black and wh ite swan s there are many sorts of geese , wigeon , teal , an d mallard . There w a s a time wh en th e ki te was a s famil iar in

London streets as t he sparrow is now . Th e swi fts used to circle and gl ide o ver wh at is n o w th e densest part o f th e City . Woodcocks were shot i n Piccad illy not a A h und red years ago . l though many changes h ave taken , and must take , place in th e bi rd l ife of Lon don , th ere is n o sign that th e great ci ty w i ll ever lose th e i nterest

ff o f a orded by th e presence wild bi rds .

l . O C l i m ate and Rai nfal l . G reenw i ch b O servatory and i t s Work .

o f o r is Th e cl imate a country d istrict , briefly, th e

o f average weath er that country or d istrict , an d i t depends

o up n various factors , all m utually in teracting ; upon th e

O f lati tude , th e tem perature , the d irection and strength th e winds , th e rai n fall , th e character of th e so il , an d the

t o proxim ity of th e d istrict th e sea . Th e d i fferences i n th e cl i mates o f t he wo rld depend mainly u pon lati tude , but a scarcely l ess im portan t CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 65

is s ea A factor proxim ity t o the . long any great cl imatic zone there w il l be foun d variat ions i n propor t io n “ ” t o l th is proximity , the extremes being con t inen ta

o f cl imates i n the centres continen ts far from the oceans, “ ” e a an d insular cl imates i n smal l tracts surrounded by s . Cont inental cl imates show great d i fferences i n seasonal

t o temperatures, the win ters tend ing be unusually cold

w o f and th e summers unusually arm , wh ile the cl imate insular tracts is characterised by equableness and also by greater dampness . Great B ritain possesses , by reason of i t s posi tion , a temperate i nsular cl imate , but i ts average annual temperature is much h igh er than could be expected

u - from its lat i t de . Th e prevalent south westerly winds cause a movemen t of th e surface - waters of th e Atlantic

- w towards our shores, and th is warm water current , h ich we know as th e Gul f Stream , is one of th e ch ief causes of

o u r the mildness of winters .

M o f o u r A ost weather comes to u s from th e tlantic . It would be impossi ble h ere w i t h i n th e l i m i ts o f a short chapter to d iscuss fully the causes wh ich affect o r control

ffi t o s a weather changes . It must su ce y th at t h e cond itions are i n the mai n ei t her cyclon ic or an t icyclon ic , wh ich terms may be best explained , perhaps, by com paring the

o f ai r currents to a stream water . In a stream a chai n of edd ies may often be seen fringing th e more stead ily moving central water . Regarding t h e general north

A a s u easterly mov ing ai r from the tlantic s ch a stream , a chai n of edd ies may be developed i n a belt parall el wit h

o r a s its gen eral d irect ion . Th is bel t of edd ies cyclones , they are termed , tends to sh ift its position , somet imes

E B . . L . S ENGLAND WALES ANNUAL RAINFALL

S t a t ut e Mil e s 40

25 -3 0

o n ' u , CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 67

t o o r passing over ou r islands , sometimes th e north sou t h o f is o f them , and it to th is sh ift i ng that most ou r weath er changes are d ue . Cyclon ic con d itions are associated with a greater o r less amoun t of atmosph eric d isturbance ; ant icyclon ic with calms . The prevalen t Atlan tic winds largely affect our island

i t s in another way , namely i n rain fal l . Th e ai r , h eav ily laden w ith moisture from its passage over th e ocean , meets wit h elevated land - tracts d i rectly it reach es o u r

— o f shores the moorlan d Devon an d Corn wall , th e Welsh

o f mountains, or th e fells Cumberlan d an d Westmorland — — and blow ing u p th e risin g land surface , parts wi th th is

a s is moistu re rain . To how great an exten t th is occurs best seen by reference t o th e accom pany i ng map of th e

o f an nual rai nfall Englan d , wh ere i t wi l l at once be

is noticed that t h e h eaviest fal l i n th e west , an d that it decreases with remarkable regulari ty until th e least fall 6 o u r . 1 0 is reach ed on eastern sh ores Thus i n 9 , th e max imum rain fal l for th e year occurred at Glaslyn in t h e

o 2 0 Snowd n d istrict , Carnarvonsh ire , wh ere o ver 5 in ch es

O f o w a s ff rai n fell and th e l west at B oyton , Su olk , with

2 0 . a record of under i nches Th ese weste rn h ighlands ,

t o th erefo re , may not i naptly be compared an umb rel la , sh el tering the country furth er eastward from th e rai n .

Th e above causes , th en , are t hose main ly conce rn ed

o i n i nfluencing th e weather , but there are th er and more l ocal factors wh ic h Oft en affect greatly th e cl imate of a

fo r place , such , example , as con figurat ion , position , and f . o soil Th e sh elter of a range h ills, a southern aspect , a sandy soil , w ill thus produce cond i t ions wh ich may 68 EAST LONDON d iffer greatly from those o f a place—perhaps at no great — d istance situated on a W in d - swept northern slope wi th a col d clay soil . Th e character of the cl imate of a country or district i n fluences, as everyone knows, both th e cultivation of th e soil and th e products wh ich i t

a s a s yields, and thus in di rectly wel l d irectly , exercises a

ff M a n profoun d e ect u pon . In consideri ng th e cl imate of th e county of London we must bear in m in d that i t is n o t a maritime cou nty

s o h a s l ike Essex , and not th e mod i fy ing i nfluence Of

s ea t o in th e . It will also be well remember that , poi nt

o f of size , L ondon is th e smallest our E ngl ish counties, and therefore we must n o t expect t o fin d th e variations

a s i n i t s cl imate so noti ceable those i n Kent or Essex . It is of th e greatest importan ce to have accu rate

a s i n format ion to t he prevai ling w inds, th e temperatu re ,

o f an d th e rai nfal l a d istrict , for th e cl imate of a county h a s considerable i nfluence on i ts productions, its trades

e . O u r and industries , an d its comm rce knowledge o f th e weather is much more defin ite than i t was

s formerly , an d every day ou r newspaper contai n a great d eal o f in formation on th is subj ect . I n London th ere M is th e eteorological Society , wh ich collects i n formation from al l parts of th e B ritish Isles relating t o th e tem

e r a t u r e o f p the air , th e h ours of sunsh ine , th e rain fall , and th e d i rection o f the wi nd s . Th e B ri tish Isles and coasts have been d iv ided for these

1 2 purposes i nto mai n d istricts , and th e newspapers daily publ ish th e fo recasts issued by the M eteorol ogical Society o f the pro bable weath er fo r t h e twenty - four h ou rs next

7 0 EAST LONDON

city l ike a black pall . T hei r densi ty is mainly due to

- ff coal smoke , and many e orts h ave been vainly made to remedy th em . Fogs can now he re be avoided i n th e

Lon don area , though they are l ess dense at Hampstead and H ighgate i n th e north , or at Streatham in th e south ,

is than at Wh i techapel or Roth erh ithe . There even a

A b u t t o S moke batement Society , up th e present there h a s o r n o been l i ttl e allev iation of t he annoyance .

B esides the h ealth poi n t of v iew , there is the commercial

t o aspect of these L ondon fogs be considered , for the

dislocation of busin ess is enormous , w h ile the extra ex pe n di t u r e caused by reso rt to artificial l igh t is a great tax

on tradesmen and oth ers . In London , th e yellow fogs are “ ” humorously known as London Parti cular , and D ickens

o h i often refers t them i n s works by th is name . London

has also its m ists, and th ese occu r th roughout th e year .

To is th e artistic eye , a Lon don mist really beautiful , an d Wh istler has taught people t o appreciate these mists ” i n relation to th e river by h is N o cturnes .

is Th e warmest month i n London generally July , ° o f 6 wh en an average temperatu re 4 Fahr . prevails .

h a s January , th e coldest month , an average tem perature o f The mean tem perature o f England w a s

1 0 6 o f w a s i n 9 , and that L o ndon Wi th regard to

fi n d t he h ours o f brigh t sunsh ine i n the sam e year , we that wh ile Lond on had o u t o f a possi bl e total o f

t h e 445 9 , average for al l England was so that

Lond on w a s m uch above th e coun try a s a w h ole . The stat ist ics wi t h regard t o the rai n fall are arranged

w a s B r i t i sh R a i n a l l i n an annual kno n f , and from i t we CLI MATE ANI ) R AINFALL 7 1 can fi n d exactly recorded t h e num ber O f i nches of rai n that fall at about 4000 statio ns th rough out th e B ri t ish

o f Isles . In t h e Cou n ty Lo ndon there are many

w h o o n e o r - o bservers keep m ore rain gauges, and register t h e resul ts obtained . Every year th ese facts are tabulated

a and fo rwarded t o th e ed i tor o f B r i t i sh R a i nf l l . In th e County o f London there are two very importan t

fo r stati ons record ing meteo rological statistics . Th e fi rst

O is is Greenwich bservatory , wh ich a Govern men t

i s establ ish ment , an d th e secon d at Camden Square ,

M B r i t i sh R a i n a l l where D r H . R . ill , th e ed i tor of f , has a stat ion . No w l et u s l ook at th e rai n fall statistics at Greenwich fo r 1 9 0 7 . D uri ng that year there were 1 63 rainy days

t o with a total rai nfall of i nches . Th e w wettest A O mon t hs were pri l an d ctober , each hav ing a rai n fal l o f M over 3 i nch es , wh ile arch , July , an d Septem ber

o f were th e driest wi th a rain fal l l ess than on e i nch .

t o is If we turn t he records at Camden Square , wh ich

fi n d fo r 1 8 8 i n t he n o rth of London , we that rai n fel l 4 1 h ou rs on 7 5 days, gi v ing a total rain fal l of i nch es, wh ich is rather h ighe r than that of Greenwich . Th e average rainfal l of 5 0 years at Camden Square is i nch es ; th e l owest rai n fall of 1 7 6 9 i nch es was i n

1 8 8 o f 8 1 Fo r 0 0 . 9 , and th e h igh est 3 i nch es was i n 9 3 pu rposes o f comparison it may be mentio ned that the

f or 2 0 1 0 rainy days England an d Wal es were 3 i n 9 7 , 6 1 1 an d for th e same year th e rain fall was 3 inches . It will thus be seen that London is far below th e rest

i s o f t h e country . Th is largely due t o t h e fact that t h e 7 2 EAST LONDON

o f rain fall Englan d , as al ready stated , decreases generally

as we travel from west to east (p . Th e h ighest

L l da w M rainfall i n 1 9 0 7 was at Llyn y Copper ine ,

Greenw i c h O b s ervatory

1 6 1 6 Carnarvonsh i re , wh ere no less than 9 inch es were

1 0 - o h - measured . T he least rai n in 9 7 fell at Clacton Sea ,

No w u s wh ere th e record was i nch es . let compare

these t w o ext rem es with those o f London . Th e h igh est CLIMATE ANI) R AINFALL 7 3 rain fall registered in Lon don i n 1 9 0 7 w a s a total o f

i nches at B rockwel l Park , Lam beth , and t h e lo west

1 8 8 w a s . o f 7 inch es at Battersea , Nine El ms No w t o summarise th e mai n facts with regard t o t he

o f s a is cl imate London , we may y generally that i t dry , with a rain fal l far below t h e average o f England an d

Wales . Th e cl imate i s h ealthy and th e prevail ing wi nds

- t o are from th e south west . Th e d rawbacks th e cl i mate

o f o are th e fogs N vem ber an d D ecembe r , and th e biting

o t o east winds f th e spri ng . Perhaps t h e best testimony th e h eal th iness of London ’s cl imate may be gathered from — th e v ital statistics for 1 9 0 8 . I n that year the death rate per 1 000 was only 1 3 8 against I 5 2 for th e whol e country .

- Greenwich O bservatory is worl d famous . It was

1 6 founded by Cha rles II i n 7 5 , an d designed by S i r

Ch ristoph er Wren . For th e pu rposes of navigation th e stapl e work of the O bservatory has always been the o h

o f t o servation positions of the moon and fixed stars, wh ich has been added th e care of th e ch ronometers used i n th e

Royal Navy . Th e merid ian marked out by th e Transi t

Ci rcle , t he i nstrument with wh i ch these obse rvations are is made , th e zero of longitude used by most of the nations o f o f the world , and th e mean ti me of th e meridian

is G reenw ich the l egal standard time for G reat B ritain . ’ ’ A t 1 0 1 o clock an d o clock each day , th e accu rate Greenwich t im e is tel egraph ed t o th e General Post O fli c e for d istri bution over the wh ole coun try . Th e Observations o f posi tions o f th e h eavenly bod ies have been su pplemented by th e add ition of branch es d eal ing with meteorology ,

o f magnetism , t h e observati on th e solar surface , and T h e 3 o - i nc h Re flector at G reen wic h CLIMATE ANl ) RAINFALL 7 5

celestial ph otography . The ph otographs o f comets , nebulae , and th e small satell ites o f planets , taken wi th th e

0- 3 i nch Reflector , com pare favou rably w i th t hose taken in oth er parts of th e world unde r better cl imatic c o n

i o d t i n s . A Th e stronome r Royal l i ves at Flamsteed House , ’ wh ich fo rms th e main part of Wren s buil d ing . Th e

- curiously shaped domes coveri ng th e telescopes , th e largest of wh ich is a refracti ng telescope with an O bj ect

o f 2 8 glass inch es d iameter, form strik ing features in th e

o f landscape , and th e publ ic clock an d standard measu res l ength i n the outer wall o f th e O bservatory are al ways

o f t o objects i nterest v isi tors .

1 1 — . Peop le Race . Di al ect . Settl e

m ents . Pop u l ation .

London is th e most modern o f ou r counties , an d yet a s a B ritish city i t h a s beh in d i t a h istory o f nearly t w o A thousand years . lone among all ou r B ritish cities , i t

o f has been wo rl d i m portance th rough ten cen tu ries, and at th e present ti me i t is th e most cosmopoli tan place

o f o u r c i n th e whole world . In some Engl ish ounties ,

w fin d such as Corn all and Somerset , we d istinct traces of

o th e speech an d characteristics Of th e f rmer i nhabi tants .

o f a s Th is is also true counties nearer L ondon , such

f A - Norfolk and Suf olk , wh ere t h e nglo Danish influence i s marked . B ut i n London we h ave practically no defin ite su rvi val of th e original races wh ich l ived i n th e 7 6 EAST LONDON ci ty ; for th e Londoner o f t o - day is eith er a recen t immigrant from th e coun try or from abroad , retain ing h is p rovi ncial or foreign characteristics , or else h e is a hybrid of th e most i ntricate ancestry . It w ill n o t be necessary then to dwell at l ength o n A i th e various races that have l i ved i n Lon don . fter t s

n o settlement by th e Celts, th e re is doubt th at th e

w a s Roman influence of great im portance , and that th e

v t nati es were Romanised i n many ways , as w ill be ga h ered W from other chapters i n th is book . h en th e Roma n s w i th drew , th e Engl ish destroyed th e ci ty , an d for a time i t was a scene of desolation . Th e Roman villas, baths, bridges , roads , tem ples, an d statuary were either destroyed A t o r t o . al lowed fall i nto decay length , however , London again became famous a s th e capital of th e O l d Engl ish

t o kingdom of Essex , and continued increase i n size an d i m portance . We may assign th e re nascence of London t o A w h o lfred , repai red the build i ngs and rebu ilt the ’ o f M walls . Th e bu ild ing St Paul s inster i n t h e ten th , and o f Westm inster A bbey i n th e eleventh cen tury settled the question that London w a s to be a great ecclesiastical centre of th e Engl ish peopl e . D uri ng the Engl ish settlement o f London t h ere were frequent incu rsions o f th e Danes , and they have left th ei r mark on London , fo r several of th e city churches retai n

t o o f th ei r d edication saints Dan ish origin . Th us we have St Clemen t Danes ch u rch i n the West , and S t ’ ’ l a ve s Magnus an d St O chu rch es i n the East . Perhaps th e greatest change i n London w a s e ffected

1 066 i n , wh en th e descendan ts of th e V iki ngs , o r

S pi t a l fi e l ds G reat S yn agogue

/1 (Or ig i n a l ly a H ug u en o t Cl ai r e ) P O A A S E TTLE ME N' S 9 E PLE , R CE , DI LECT, 7 al iens continue t o enter th e ci ty in great numbers

o f and no less than exclusive sailo rs , arri ved 1 at t he port o f L ondo n i n 9 0 2 . I n spite of t h e

A c t 1 0 passed i n 9 5 , wh ic h aimed at prevent ing t h e

o f f land ing th e very poorest oreign ers , the stream of immigrants h a s flow ed s o stead ily that at th e present time large portions of such d istricts a s Stepney and

Beth nal Green are w holly occupied by foreign settlers . It has thus become necessary i n many cases for offi cials

s o t o to learn Yidd ish , as deal more easily with them . t o We may now pass th e question of d ialect , and

o u r a s h ere remarks to th e race of Londoners also apply . O wing t o th e influx of peopl e from all parts Of the

- fi B ritish Islands, Londoners of to day have n o de n ite

a s fin d o r d ialect we shoul d i n Yorksh i re , Cornwall , or

h a s Somerset . It been well remarked that o n e of th e most certain means of ascertain ing t he character of a ff people is a orded by thei r colloquial id ioms . It would be very d i ffi cult t o apply th is principl e to the Speech of

a s a s Londoners, wh ich probably includes th e worst well

f o r th e best characteristics o u English language . Even

fi n d i n fash ionable ci rcles i n London , we frequently th e

n conversation somewhat slangy , and gi ven to the droppi g fi ’ A of the nal g s of certain words . mong th e toilers of

London , the Speech is loud , and th e in itial h of words i s l h a s seldom heard . Th e dia ect of t he Cockney passed

h a s in to a proverb , and not only worked havoc in London ,

h a s t o but i nvaded th e d istricts adjacen t to the City , th e great detriment of th e Engl ish language . Here it may 8 0 E AST LONDON be mentioned th at the name Cockney is strictly appl ied to people b o rn w ith in th e sound Of B o w Bells : an d perhaps no novel ist h a s used the Cockney speech s o

h is w a s largely as D ickens . In early days i t common “ ” “ ” a n d for Lon doners to convert the letter w into v , v i c e v er sa , but th is pecul iarity does not now exist . Wi t h th ese few remarks on th e race and dialect of

Londoners , let us turn our attention to the population of

1 1 1 wa s London as it was i n 9 , wh en the last census

r el a t i n t o taken . For th e Statistics g t he population we 1 80 1 fi have no exact i nformation til l , when th e rst census

h a s w a s made . From that date onwards th ere been a

numbering of th e people every ten years . In 1 8 0 1 th e populatio n of London was and i n 1 9 1 1 i t w a s Th is means that th e

fi ve— population has increased n early fold in th e cen tury . During th e last twenty years th e increase h a s been nearly but th e census of 1 9 1 1 shows a decrease o r Th is enormous populat ion is greater tha n that

of ei ther Scotland or Ireland , and exceeds that of several

- European countries . I t forms about one eigh th of the entire population of England and Wales ; and wh ile th e average number o f people to a square m ile in E ngland is 61 8 is and Wales , i t no less t han in London . Th e population of London north o f th e Thames is and that sout h of it There are females an d males in London ’s 1 1 1 populat ion of 9 . Th e people l i ved i n 1 0 1 separate tenements in 9 , of wh ich the greater num ber ,

o r had less than five rooms . It was found that P OP —R E 8 1 E LE AC , DIALECT,

- there were single room tenements , each having

rs 1 60 2 - more than two pe ons , and single room tenemen ts

s ix with more than persons i n each .

Th e census figures are i nterest ing i n many ways . Thus we fi n d that i n 1 9 0 1 there were paupers in ’ 1 6 London s wo rkh ouses , an d 4 7 prisoners in t he gaols . Th e m il itary barracks o f t he met ropol is h eld people , and there were inmates i n the vari ous

To o f h ospi tals . gi ve some i dea of th e l ongev ity

is t o 1 61 Lo ndoners, i t i n terest ing record that people

o f 1 00 2 were between t h e ages 9 5 and , wh ile 4 peopl e had exceeded 1 00 years . 6 Th e bl i n d peopl e of London n umbered 3 5 5 , and th ese were largely empl oyed i n maki ng articl es of wil low

- a s a s . and cane , brush makers, and musicians The deaf 2 0 and dumb were 5 7 in num ber , and th ey wo rked as

o o . tailors, bo t and sh e makers, an d d ressmakers Now we come t o th e census tables wh ich gi ve t h e place o f bi rth o f th e peopl e . We learn that were born wi t h in th e county o f London , i n

Wales, i n Scotland , i n Ireland , and

o f in B ritish Colon ies . Persons foreign bi rt h numbered

an d were mai nly nati ves of Russia , Germany ,

France , I taly , and th e U n ited States . The London

is borough having the largest fo reign populat ion Stepney ,

n o 1 1 wh ere l ess than al iens were resid ing in 9 0 .

Th e boroughs o f Westm inste r , St Pancras, H ol bo rn , and

o f Marylebo ne have also a large population foreigners . A s th is bo o k deals w ith the eastern port ion o f t h e

o f county London , we may close t h is chapter w ith a few 6 8 . E . L . 8 2 EAST LONDON

figures givi ng some comparisons w ith regard t o th e f populations of th e various boroughs . O th e total

o f o population L n don , are in th e eastern

. O f portion , against i n th e western port ion

o h a s all th e London boroughs, Isl ingt n i n the east th e largest population , v iz . peopl e , wh il e th e City of f o l . . O Lond n has t he smallest , v iz peop e cou rse th e latter i s th e n igh t population ; i n th e day - time th e ci ty population is ten ti mes as great . Some of th e

boroughs i n th e eastern portion are densely populated ,

v and Southwark , Shored i tch , an d B eth nal Green ha e 1 0 each 7 or more people t o t h e acre . Woolw ich and

L ew isham have th e l east crowded populations , for th e

h a s 1 2 2 t o former borough only 4, and th e latter only

th e acre .

1 2 I s . n d u st ries an d Man ufactu re .

London has long been celebrated for i t s manufactures

s i t s So a s well a for commerce . early as th e reign of Hen ry I th e English goldsm i ths had become s o em inent for working th e precious metals that th ey were frequently f employed by foreign princes . Th e manufacturers o London i n that reign were s o numerous a s t o be formed in to fratern ities, or gilds, an d of t h em we Shal l 1 6 read someth ing in anoth er chapter . In 5 5 , a manu facto ry fo r th e finer sorts o f glass w a s establ ished at “

fli n t - t o Crutch ed Friars ; an d glass , equal that o f Ven ice , w a s made at th e same t ime at th e Savoy . Coaches were INDUSTRIES AND MANU FACTURES 8 3

1 6 2 0 i ntroduced i n 5 4, and i n less than years t h ey f became an ex tensi ve art icle of manu acture in London . “ o f fi r e - Th e maki ng earth en fu rnaces , eart hen pots , and earth en ovens transportable ” began i n El izabeth ’s reign , wh en an Engl ishman named Dyer brough t t h e art

w a s from Spai n . Th e same man sent at th e expense of

u th e Ci ty o f London to Persia , and h e bro gh t hom e t he 1 art o f dyei ng and weaving carpets . In 5 7 7 , pocket watch es were i ntroduced into Englan d from Nurem berg, and almost im med iately th e manu facture of th em w a s

o f w a s begun i n London . In th e reign Charles I , sal tpetre made i n such q uantiti es i n London a s not on ly t o supply

o f th e wh ol e of England , bu t th e greater part Eu rope . Th e H uguenots an d oth er re fugees from Europe brough t thei r skill an d instructed th e peopl e amon g whom th ey settled h o w t o manufactu re many art icles t hat had been previously im ported . Wandsworth became

1 a busy l ittle manufacturing town i n 5 7 3 , wh en a colo ny of Huguenots i ntroduced th e hat manufactory ; and i t is said that Wandsworth wa s t h e only place wh ere th e f Card i nals o R ome could obtain t he i r hats . The Silk manu facture w a s first establ ished at Spi tal fi elds by th e ex pelled F rench Pro testan ts , after th e rev o cation o f th e Ed ict of Nantes i n 1 68 5 . For a l ong t ime

- f silk weav ing was a most flourish ing man u act ure , and

h a s alth ough it much decli ned , there are st ill descendan ts of th e old French Huguenots w h o l i ve in Spi t a l fi e l ds an d

B eth nal Green . Fo reign names are visi ble o n th e shop

o f fronts , and some th e weavers st il l work in glazed att ics such a s thei r forefathers used i n France . It is related t hat 6 ’ - i n S i t a l fi el ds S i lk w e av e r s Ho u s e s C h u rc h S treet , p

i n do ws (S h o wi ng wi de a tt i c w )

8 6 EAST LONDON

are sti ll i n a flourish ing condition . When these t rades

- were first introduced , north east Surrey had oak woods,

o f bu t th ese have long passed away , and th e whole that

n d istrict is now one O f th e busi est parts of Londo . B er

C a m bridge U n ivers ity P re s s W are h o u s e

m o n ds e S y and outh wark have numerous other i ndustries ,

r f and soap , candles , and biscu i ts are la g ely manu actu red .

h a s f o f Lond on large manu actures boots and shoes ,

- C . A and ready made cl oth i ng , specially i n th e East End INDUSTRIES AND MANU FACTURES 8 7 great deal of th is work is carried o n i n th e houses of th e

o f poo r, and gi ves employment to h undreds women and

is ch ildren . The making of lucifer match es also i n t h e

fo r same d istrict , and such work the peo ple are badly paid .

Industries co nnected with the prin t ing t rade , book

o f bind ing , and newspapers are th e greatest importance ,

P ri nt i n g - m ac h i ne i n Ti m es O ffi ce an d Lon don Stands at the h ead o f all our towns i n t h is respect . Th e book trade at on e tim e cen tred round

R o w o f Paternoster , but late years many publ ishers have M removed to the West End . ost of th e newspapers and magazines have th ei r offi ces i n Fleet Street and in t hat

neigh bourhood . Lond on is also one o f th e great centres of th e furn i tu re 8 8 EAST LONDON

- and cabi net maki ng trades, and un til recent t imes th e ch ief shops and factories were i n th e neighbou rhood o f

S horeditch . Th ese i ndustries are declin ing, owi ng to

o f foreign competition , and much th e work has been transferred to th e n eigh bourhood of Totten ham Court

Road an d O xford Street .

A s W i R oyal r en al , oolw c h

it s Cl erkenwell is famous for clock and watch maki ng, and Hatto n Garden is th e seat O f th e jewellery trade and A the home o f d ealers in precious stones . Long cre has a good deal of coach and carriage build ing ; and at

Lambet h t h ere are i mportan t engineering works .

A h a s n o t l th ough London is a large port , i t much sh i pbu ilding , though th e Blackwall Yard can claim an

o M i ant iqu i ty f th ree centu ries . uch that s now d one is

9 0 EAST LONDON W hen London was settled by th e East Saxons, trade

t o A came i t again , and under l fred and h is successor i t

- became t h e c h i ef port an d market place of our land .

B ede , who d ied i n th e eigh th cen tury , praises the happy situation of Lon don on th e Thames, and calls i t th e

o f A o f em porium many nations . mong th e names

London i n th e seventh an d eigh th centu ries, we fin d ’ ’ C ea - st o w L u n den - Wi e L u n a en - h r i L a n cl en t u n e s p , , y g , an d h t he w y , and th ese certai nly Sho th e recognised i mportance o f London as a market and port . From the begin n ing of th e n i nth cen tu ry th e trade o f

London is more and more often mentioned . Then i t

s ea - f e is that the aring merchant is reward d , an d the cus toms are of such i mportance a s to be worthy of special

regulations . It is probable that th e first port was at

Do w a t e o n g th e Wal brook , but as larger sh ips came , they moored alongsi de th e wharves at B illingsgate and Queen h i th e .

A - 1 00 8 blow was struck at th e Slave trade i n , wh en “ n i t was decreed that Ch ristia men , an d uncondemned , ” o u t be not sold of th e country , and with in a few years such merchandise w a s not necessary for th e growing

n e prosperity of th e port . O remarkable fact i n th e early commerce an d trade of London is that they were mainly

h a s i n the hands of foreigners . Indeed , it been sai d that London i n those early times was l argely a ci ty of

o w n t o foreigners . I n order to encourage ou r peopl e A trade , th elstan , early i n the tenth century , ordained that any merchan t w h o had made th ree voyages sh ould be ackno w ledged a thane . AND TH E GI LDS 9 1

A mong t h e fo reign traders w h o settl ed i n London

w h o t o a s were some Germans, were known th e Engl ish

Easterl i ngs . Th ey had th ei r own hall , or Gildhall ,

w a s o n o f wh ich called th e Steelyard , and stood th e site th e presen t Cannon Street Station . Th ese Teuton ic , o r

o f Hanse merchants , had a monopoly al l th e trade w ith

o f the n earer count ries Europe , an d th ey flou rish ed i n

London til l th e reign of El izabeth , wh en t hey lost all th ei r special pri vileges .

- The Ital ian money lenders , known as Lom bards , began t o settle i n London i n th e th irteenth centu ry . Th ey were mostly wealthy Ital ians d riven from th eir o w n t o o f country , and , owing th e expulsion th e Jews from London , th ey d id a large an d profitable business . T h ese I tal ian mon ey- l enders have left th ei r mark o n

London trade , and Lom bard Street , named after them , is

o f o u r o Still th e seat ch ief banki ng h uses . Th e reign O f Ed ward III s a w the i ncrease of our

o f t rade wit h th e Low Coun tries , and th e settlemen t

Fl emi ngs i n London and elsewhere . Flanders became t h e great market fo r our wool and s o conti nued down t o

o f th e time th e Tudors . Elizabeth gave a great stimulus

w a s to th e trade of London , and i t i n h er reign that ’ Gresham s Royal Exchange was built . Wh en A ntwerp 1 6 was sacked by th e Span iards i n 5 7 , London took i ts place as th e lead i ng port of Europe . Th e Hanse merchants lost th ei r pri vileges by t he acti o n of El izabeth , an d at once th e Merchan t A dventu rers took th ei r place

o n an d carried th e wool trade wi th Flanders . It w a s ’ owi ng t o El izabeth s w ise commercial pol icy that ot h er 9 2 EAST LONDON

o f com panies were formed for th e development trad e . Th e Russian Company brough t th e furs o f Russia t o

London , besides silks and teas from th e East . Th e M Levan t Company developed a trade i n the editerranean , and th e East Ind ia Company began its work dur ing th e ’ A l l last year of El izabeth s reign . th ese trad ing com

a n ies p enjoyed monopol ies, but th ey brough t i ncreasing

t o prosperity th e city , and i n th e next chapter we shall consider some O f th e measures wh ich are now being

o t o it s adopted t enable London main tain prem ier position . We can best grasp th e presen t trade of Lon don by

o f looking at a few figures . The wh ole th e imports of the U n ited Kingdom in 1 90 7 were worth upwards o f n 2 1 0 000 000 an d of th is Lo don took J{ , ,

- o f or nearly on e th i rd . Th e total exports th e Un ited Kingdom fo r th e same year were over and ’ Londo n s share of th is was about It w ill thus be seen that more than a quarter of th e trade of ou r country is carried o n th rough London ; and i t w ill also be noticed that th e imports exceed th e exports by nearly

o n e th ree to . London is th erefore th e ch ief port for

is i t s im ports, and exceeded i n exports only by Liverpool . Now i t will be interesting to consider th e ch ief articles that London imports . Nearly all th e wool that

o u r i t s comes to country en ters t he Po rt of London , and wool market is attended by buyers fro m al l parts o f t h e

M o f ff w orld . ost th e tea and co ee consumed i n England is t o h a s brough t London , an d th e city practically a

o f h a s mo nopoly t he fur trade w ith Canada . London a large share o f t h e West Ind ian trad e , wh ich includes

9 4 EAST LONDON

were th e Goldsmi t hs , the Pepperers , an d th e B utch ers .

Gradually the i nfluence of th e craftsmen made i tself fel t , M for they foun d a patron i n th e ayor Of Lon don . There

u o f o are records of th e reg lations s me of th e gilds i n —th e fi n d fourteenth century , and from th ese we that t he

t o o n members had be of good repute , an d take an oath

o f . entry , besides givi ng a kiss love , charity , and peace

t o Th e members prom ised nourish good fellowsh ip , an d

o f f men of ev il l i fe were put out th e ratern ity . We also

fi n d Ol d that members recei ved weekly h el p in poverty ,

t o age , and sickness, wh ile th e young were h el ped get work .

i s Th e wh ol e story of th e Ci ty G ilds of deep i nterest , but h ere we can only mention further that th ey were A “ abolished i n 1 5 47 . writer on th e subject says that no more gross case of wanto n plunder is t o be found i n th e ” h istory o f all Europe ; n o page s o black i n Engl ish h istory . Now wh en we pass t o th e present Liv ery Compan ies o f th e Ci ty of London it is n o t easy t o decide wh eth er t hey were i n any way related to th e craft gilds . There

n o seems, however , dou bt that th e Old craft gilds and th e

fo r lat er compan ies were very closely con nected , they were both fo rmed t o promote t h e combination of th e

o f sections a particular trade . In add ition to th is the Ci ty

Compan ies controlled municipal pol itics , an d even to th is

o r a s day thei r members, Li verymen th ey are call ed , elect M f th e Lord ayo r o f th e C ity o London . Th ei r supremacy

ff h a s over th e d i erent trades , however , nearly all go ne , al th ough th e F ish mongers , th e Goldsmiths, the Stat ioners , and the A poth ecaries have st ill some aut hori ty i n th ose particular trades . i ’ Gold s m t h s H all : t h e G ran d S ta i rca s e 9 6 EAST LONDON

o Th e Livery Compan ies , with thei r p l itical and mun i c i a l n o p power , are pecul iar to London , for other city h a s perm itted associations o f th is ki nd to amass such

- wealth an d power . Th ere are now seventy s ix City

Companies, and of them twelve are known as the Greater

1 t o Compan ies , whose yearly i ncomes range from £ Th e names of th e more im portant compan ies M are th e ercers , Grocers, D rapers , Fish mongers, Gol d

M o S smi ths, Skinners , erchant Tayl rs , Haberdashers , alters,

C l o t h wo r ker s . I ron mongers, V i ntners, and Th e rich est o f M them al l is th e ercers , to whom belonged Wh it t in t o n g , Si r Thomas Gresham , and oth er famous City merchants ; wh il e th e M erchant Taylors con tains the

o name of every Engl ish ki ng fr m i ts foundation . Th ese City Companies Spend th eir money on th e many chari t able institutions they mai ntain in L o ndon they contri bute most generously t o various benevolent obj ects ; and they maintain and support many sc hools, besides showing great i n terest i n promoting tech n ical i nstruct ion i n all parts of the County of London and i n the old er U n iversities . We will n o w pass from th e regulation of trade by t he G ilds and City Compan ies t o a consideration o f th e M Markets Of London . arkets have been i n ex istence i n t h e City fo r more than a th ousand years , an d th e C ity Corpo rat ion h a s fo r many centuries been the market authori ty fo r Lon don . Th e C ity in th e reign of Edward I I I w a s granted exclusiv e market righ ts and priv ileges wi th in a rad ius o f seven m iles , and these righ ts fi have from t im e to tim e been recogn ised and con rmed .

’ I he Cen tral Markets at Sm i t hfie l d cover part of th e

9 8 EAST LONDON

n M Th e Foreig Cattle arket is at D eptford , and

o f stands on th e site th e old Dockyard . It has an area 0 of upwards of 3 acres, an d accommodation for

is cattl e an d sh eep . Every an i mal i nspected on ffi i ts entry by veterinary O cers, and slaughtered w ith in a period of ten days . Th e d iseased ani mals are at once consigned to a d igester , and reduced to ash es . ’ fish B ill in gsgate is London s ch ief market , an d dates from ti me i mmemorial . Th e market is for th e w holesale

fis h and retai l sale of , w hi ch arri ves both by lan d and

- fis h water . The water borne , caugh t ch iefly in th e North

fis h i n - fle e t s Sea , is collected from th e various g by Steam

a s vessels known steam carriers, wh ich del iver at B ill ings

. 1 0 fis h gate Quay I n 9 7 , as much as tons of were sold by auction at th is noted market .

L e a de n h a l l M arket has ex isted from very early times , and sells meat , poultry , game , and prov isions . Th e

w a s 1 8 8 1 is present market open ed i n , and th e business

A t L ea de n h a l l M both wholesale an d retail . arket al l

is kinds of pets may be bough t , and a large trade carri ed o n fi i n such an imals as gold sh , h edgehogs, dogs, foxes ,

parrots , tortoises , and rabb its . Th e Sm i t h fiel d Hay Market has p ractically f allen

is i nto d isuse , although an open space Still preserved at

m it hfie l d it a l fie l d S for th e sale of hay and straw . Sp s

M is fo r arket largely the sale o f vegetables , and Shadwell

o f fi h Market for th e sale s .

B esides t h e abo ve markets , w h ich a re managed by M t he Ci ty Corporation , t here are Wh i techapel Hay arket under t h e control o f Stepney Borough Council ; th e TH E MARK ETS 9 9

B o rough Market partly managed by the South wark Borough Counci l ; and th e Wool wich Market under th e control o f t h e Wool wich B orough Council .

1 4 . Th e Custom s an d t he Cu stom

x . H ou se . T he E ch anges T h e

B an k of E ngl an d . T h e Roy a l

Mi nt .

’ Customs duties are that p o rtio n of th e n ational revenue wh ich is deri ved from a tax on i mports , and a s is fo r London th e ch ie f port imports , more than h alf ’ of th e customs duties are collected at the Custom House .

o n o f Th e tax im ports was ol d a sim ple percentage , “ ” w a s n wh ich know as tunnage and poundage , from th e

w a s t u n o f method i n wh ich it lev ied on th e w in e , or th e

o u n d o f p other merchan d ise . Th ese sums were granted

t o o f first th e Crown , and th en for th e mai ntenance th e

State . Many changes have been made from time to time i n levyi ng th ese duties, and before th e Free Trade legislation o f 1 846 it was computed that taxes were collected on

A t o u r ff 443 articles . present tari contai ns only twen ty ’ dutiable i mports , and th e w hole customs revenue is ff practically deri ved from Sp irits , win e , tobacco , co ee , tea , and dried fruits . Th e collection an d general manage ’ ment of B ri tish customs duties is under o n e great cen tral govern ment department in London , an d t h e Custom House i n L o wer Thames Street is th e bu ildi ng w here — 7 2 1 00 EAST LONDON

o f th e customs are collected for th e Port London . The present bu il ding is the fi fth on th is site and wa s erected

1 8 1 . o f 8 8 i n 4 It has a river fron tage 4 feet , and th e quay forms a noble esplanade with a fi n e v iew u p the ri ver . Th e Long Room , i n th e centre of th e build ing, is considered to be th e finest and longest o f i t s ki nd in

Eu rope and besides extensive warehouses and cellars ,

Th e C u s to m Ho u s e

there are u pwards o f 1 7 0 apartmen ts i n th e build ing . ’ Goods th at are seized o r forfei ted are stored in th e K ing s

is is Wareh ouse , an d when i t full t here a publ ic sale of th e goods .

Passing from th e Custom House , we may proceed to consider some o f the Exchanges o f London , and we can n o t do better than begin w ith the Stock Exchange . I t

w Th r ea dn e e dl e is situated i n Capel Court , bet een Street

1 02 EAST LONDON

s u r classic style , with a portico of Cori nth ian pillars,

a o f mounted by pediment , and based by a broad fligh t

ir Steps . Th e first Royal Exchange was built by S Thomas ’ o n e Gresham , of London s merchant princes in th e reign of Elizabeth , an d h is crest, th e grasshopper , still adorns th e build ing a s a vane on th e top of the east tower . Gresham got the idea of the fi rst building from the A Bourse of ntwerp , and h e w ish ed Engl ish merchants to h ave a si m ilar h ouse where they migh t meet and ’ w a s transact th ei r business . Gresham s Exchange opened

1 1 by Queen Elizabeth in 5 7 , and th e present Royal 1 Exchange w a s Opened by Queen V ictoria in 844. I n th e cent re of th e large enclosed court , wh ich has the

is tessellated pavement of the fi rst Exch ange , th ere a

o f Statue o f Queen V ictoria . The walls the cou rt are n o w bei ng decorated by pai ntings il lustrating th e ch ief events i n th e h istory o f Engl ish commerce . I t may be men tioned that th e fi rst Royal Exchange w a s destroyed

o f 1 666 i n the Great Fi re , an d the second , wh ich was 66 1 8 1 8 . Opened i n 9 , was also destroyed by fire i n 3 Th e eastern part o f th e Royal Exchange is occupied by ’ ” ’ is Lloyd s , w h ich short for Lloyd s Subscription Rooms . Lloyd ’s ” was founded by Edward Lloyd i n th e seven t e e n t h is century , and now an association of underwriters, whose business ha s largely t o do with sh i pping and ’ R e i st er is i nsurance . Lloyd s g a most important annual , fo r i t classi fies our steam vessels and sailing vessels an d “ a s A 1 d ist i ngu ish es th em by letters and figures such , t h is wel l - known symbol denot ing th e h igh est class o f

vessels . TH E E! CHANGES AND B ANKS 1 03 B esides t he Stock Exchange and th e Royal Exchange th ere are several oth er Exchanges i n the Ci ty fo r busi ness A i n Special articles . mong them may be mentioned th e M Corn Exchange i n ark Lan e , th e Sh ipping Exch ange S i n B ill iter treet , th e Wool Exchange i n Coleman Street , and th e Coal Exchange i n Lo wer Thames Street .

n o w We come to th e last section of th is chapter ,

fo r wh ich wi ll deal w ith th e Banks , whose ch ief seat a long time has been i n Lombard Street . H ere i t was th at th e great med ieval money - lenders from Italy settled

t o - hundreds of years ago , and h ere i t is day that a large part of th e trade and exchange transactions of England O f takes place . course th ere are many other banks i n

o London besides those i n L mbard Street , but there , and i n th e streets near it , are th e h eadq uarters of some of th e

o greatest banki ng establ ishmen ts i n th e w rld .

o f o u r Wh en we speak of th e banks London , mind

t o o f naturally turns the Bank England , wh ich is often “ O l d Of Th r ea dn ee dl e called th e Lady Street , because o i - f t s position . Th e Bank of Englan d is o n e storeyed

i n ff n o t o n and irregular , an d loses e ect from bei ng raised a terrace . It has no exterior wi ndows , but for th e sake

is of security l igh ted from with in . Th e Bank of England wa s 1 6 founded by Will iam Paterson , a Scotsman , in 94,

o f w a s an d t he first governor th e Bank Si r Jo h n Houblon .

fo r Th e Bank transacts much business th e Govern men t ,

t o it s wh ich may be said be ch ief customer , and i t is th e only bank i n London wh i ch has t h e power of issuing paper

. 2 0 000 000 money The Bank vaults contain about J6 , , i n gol d and sil ver , and fo r protection a m il itary guard is every 1 04 EAST LONDON

n igh t stationed with i n th e walls . Th e business of th e

t o s e e Bank is Open t he publ ic , but to th e pri nting, ffi weigh i ng, and bull ion o ces, special orders are n ecessary . Th e whole of the printing of th e Bank is done with in i t s - walls , an d besides th e bank notes, postal orders are produced . In the weigh ing offi ce there are mach ines fo r o f weigh ing sovereigns at the rate 3 3 per m inute ,

T h e B ank o f E n glan d

o n e th ose of ful l weigh t bei ng t h rown into compartment , wh ile th e l igh t ones pass into another . Th e bullion

ffi is o ce th e treasury for th e precious metals, and t he Bank is bound to buy all gold bull ion brough t to it at th e

f d. o . 1 s rate £ 3 7 . 9 per ounce . The Royal M in t on Tower H ill is conn ected i n

o f is some ways wi t h th e Bank England , fo r it h ere that

1 06 EAST LONDON

o u r also uses n ickel and al um in ium . The value of Imperial coinage issued by the M int i n one year amounts approximately to

1 - 5 . The Port of London The Dock s .

Sh i p p i ng . S h i p b u i ld i ng .

London h a s always Stood fi rst among B ritish seaports

is n w an d o the greatest seaport i n th e world . Th e reasons fo r th is pre - em inence are mai nly because of its

o n o f geograph ical advantages . I t is si tuated both sides

the Thames , which is a broad navigable ri ver , runni ng

far i nto the lan d , and hav ing a tide wh ich twice a day

carries vessels i nto its docks . It stands opposite th e

great markets and ch ief ports of th e conti nent , and th is nearness to the con t inental ports is p robably th e main

‘ i en t r e o t i t s cause of t s great p trade . Th e great value of imports an d the exten t o f i ts en t r epot trade are two special

t o features o f i t s foreign trade . Wi th regard th e value

i t s a s is u of exports , has been seen , i t s rpassed by L i verpool , owing t o th e more favourabl e situation o f the latter w ith f reference t o the great manu facturi ng districts o England . The vast i mpo rt trade of London is la rg ely due to i t s

s o o f enormous populat ion , wh ich consumes much th e

food brough t u p th e Thames .

Fo r h a s some years past , h owever, there been a feel ing that London a s a po rt had n ot been making the same rat e

a s o f o f progress Some the co nt inental ports , where d ocks TH E P ORT O F LONDON 1 07

have been built wh ich ri val t hose of London . Ham burg A and ntwerp have grown wi t h remarkable rapid i ty , and

B remen , Rotterdam , and Havre are all competing with

London and o th er B ritish ports . In these foreign ports

t o everyth ing has been done attract sh ipping , and large sums o f money h ave been spent t o make th ei r docks accessi ble , conven ient , and ch eap . The best mach i n ery fo r load ing and unload ing sh ips has been provided ; large and conven ient wharves have been built ; and c heap fares on th e railways commun icating wi th th e docks are the rule . Various proposals were mad e from ti me t o time t o

o o f 1 0 i m prove th e P rt L on don , an d i n 9 3 a B ill was

fo r i ntroduced putting it unde r publ ic control . Th is

n o t n o t measure , however , was carried , an d it was til l “ 1 9 08 t hat another B ill w a s in troduced t o prov i de fo r the i mprovement and better admi n istration of th e Port o f ” fo r London and purposes incidental thereto . Th is B ill w a s favou rably recei ved and i n due course became law . A mong th e provisions o f th is measure w a s t he estab l is h m e n t o f A o f 1 8 th e Port uthority , consisti ng elected

1 2 w h o t o an d appoi nted members , were adm in ister , preserve , an d impro ve th e Port of London . Th e Port

A h a s h a s t o uthority taken over th e docks, and power

o construct , mai n tain , an d manage any d cks, quays , wharves , jetties , an d piers th at may be necessary . 1 0 8 Before 9 , th e Thames Conservancy had control

f t o over th e Thames rom its sou rce th e sea , but that body is now restricted i n its work t o the eastward A h l im it of Tedd i ngton Lock . The Po rt uthority a s n o w 1 08 EAST LONDON

o f j urisdiction over th e Port London , wh ich extends from 1 Tedd ington Lock , 9 m iles above Lon don B ridge , to an i maginary straigh t l ine drawn from H avengore Creek i n ’ t o Essex th e Land s En d at Warden Point i n Sheppey ,

Ken t . A B esi des th e new Port uthority , th ere are two other bodies wh ich h ave j u risd iction i n particular cases over th e same area . Fi rst th ere is the City Corporation , wh ich is th e Port San itary A u thori ty from Teddington Lock seawards ; and secon dly th ere is Trin ity House , wh ich h a s o f ch arge of the pilotage , l igh ting, and buoying th e

is c o m ri ver from London B ridge seawards . Pilotage pu l s o r y i n th e London d istrict fo r vessels exceeding 60

fo r tons burden , engaged i n foreign trade . Th e fees pilotage are paid accordi ng to th e distance piloted an d th e draugh t of th e vessel , an d Trin ity House recei ves

6d o n . i n the the earn i ngs of th e pilots, and an annual ’ fee of th ree gu ineas o n th e renewal of each pilot s 0 l icence . Th ere are abou t 3 5 l icensed pilots i n London and th e amount received fo r pilotage i n one year amou nts to nearly

Th e Thames requi res considerable Skill i n nav igating , for t h e navigable channel at th e Nore is only 1 000 feet i n width and i t decreases t o 2 00 feet at London B ridge . Th e depth o f the navigable portion varies from 2 6 feet

a s a s 1 to l ittle 4 feet . I t will therefore be seen that th e wo rk o f l igh t ing and buoyi ng th e ri ver is o f t he greatest

h a s r im po rtance , and Trini ty House a la g e number of

- - t o l igh ts , buoys , fog h orns , bells , an d fog sirens warn

o f t o mariners t h e sand banks . A th e entrance t th e

1 1 0 EAST LONDON

is - is estuary th e Nore l igh t vessel , wh ich i n fou r fathoms of water at the east end o f the sand . I t shows a wh i t e l igh t , wh ich revolves every hal f m i nute . Th e vessel has a red hul l with th e name No r e pai nted on both sides an d wi th a ball at the masth ead .

No w l eav i ng the navigation of th e Thames , let us briefly consid er th e Docks, wh ich were taken over in

n 1 9 09 by the Port A ut h ority . O th e north Side th ey ’ a s z—St are follows Kath erine s, London , West India , M A illwall , East Ind ia, Royal V ictoria, Royal l bert , and Ti lbury ; and o n th e south side are th e Surrey Commercial A Docks . ltogether th ese docks have a water area of

6 a n d 45 acres , they are all closed docks , being entered by locks . Th e West Ind ia Dock was th e first dock i n London

1 8 0 2 . and was opened i n Before that date , Sh ips were

e u nloaded at ce rtain quays and wharves, but th e a com ffi A fi m o da t i o n was qui te insu cient . fter th e rst docks

o w a s l were pened , thei r value real ised , and oth ers fo lowed

- i n quick succession . Th e great deep water docks at 1 8 8 6 Tilbury were t h e last , and were opened i n . Th e largest sh i ps i n th e worl d can enter th em at any state of

O f t w o th e tide , and each th e gravi ng docks has a length of 8 46 feet .

B esides th ese docks from London B ridge to Ti lbu ry ,

- o f 2 t here are , al ong th is water way 5 m iles , a num ber of land ing- places an d wharves wh ere sh ips can d ischarge

r u - thei r cargoes . V ery la g e vessels come p ri ver to Lon don

n o t s o B ridge , but th e great ocean l iners do come far , for they generally berth i n some o f the large docks lower down .

1 1 2 EAST LONDON

In order to give some idea o f th e vast trad e of th e

o f 1 0 Port London we may mention that, i n 9 7 , v essels entered , an d vessels cleared . Th e tonnage m 1 of th e former a oun ted to over 7 m illion tons , and of

t o 1 6 the latter about 5 m ill ion tons . Th e value an d character of t h e goods has been already stated , an d we may close th is portion of o u r chapter by remarki ng that there is every reason t o believe that under th e n ew Port A uthority the trade will i ncrease with th e additional

ff t o advantages o ered sh i pping . A is lthough London such a great port , i t is by no means i mportant as a Sh i pbu ild ing port . Indeed , i t ranks

is very low , and year by year this i ndustry decl in ing ; an d some of th e large Sh ipbuild ing fi rms have removed th ei r works from th e Thames to t h e north of England A t and to Scotland . present th ere is some sh ipbuilding at Poplar, and at th e Thames Iron an d Sh ipbuilding yards

1 06 o u t 1 00 at Cann ing Town . In 9 , of 5 vessels built

1 r i n th e Un ited Kingdom only 5 0 we e bu ilt i n London . Th e tonnage of th e latter was but against o f t h e former .

1 6 . H i story .

There i s no authen t ic ev idence t o Show at what period

n o w th e B ritons set tled in t he d istrict we cal l London .

o f We have al ready referred to th e origi n th e name , and also to t h e probabl e posi t ion of th e city in t he days of th e

1 1 4 EAST LONDON

Roman commander in B ritain , proclai med h imself em

er o r h is o r t ra it p , and struck i n Lon don gol d coi ns bearing p ' an d name . B efore long, howev er , h e was mu rdered by

Al l e c t u s b u t , who assumed th e imperial title , was defeated an d Slain at Southwark by a general w hom th e Emperor of Rome had sen t against h im . Henceforward th e h istory

1 of London becomes fragmentary . I n 4 0 the Roman sold iers were with drawn from Bri tain , and with th ei r

o f A departure th e Roman name th e city , ugusta , was

o r W forgotten , at all even ts , d isappeared . h en th e city comes agai n i nto th e l igh t of h istory , it is under its more — ancient name London . Th is silence o f h istory for t w o centuries is very t e markable , for we h ear of th e Engl ish conquest of Pevensey ,

Bath , and Gloucester, but th e story of London is qu ite

. w 60 A . D e fin d lost to us . In the year 4 th e city i n . o f th e possession th e East Saxons, and n ew names are given to th e old Roman roads , the gates , th e ri vers ,

is an d th e h ills . Everyth i ng changed , an d th e power o f Rome over London has van ished . London becam e t he capi tal of th e kingdom of th e East Saxons, an d

t o A S continued increase in Size an d importance . early a s th e begi nn ing o f th e seven th century t he in fl uence

of Ch ristian i ty mad e itsel f fel t i n L ondon . Eth el bert ,

ki ng Of Kent , had been converted , and as overlord of all nations south o f th e H u rn b e r h e had a sincere desi re that th e East Saxons Should become Ch ristians l ike the people o f Kent . He therefo re d ecreed that th e peopl e of London O sh ould put away th e worsh i p of Thor , d in , an d oth er

. M gods of the no rth Evidently h e was obeyed , and ell itus H ISTORY 1 1 5

o f 60 was consecrated th e fi rst bishop Lond on i n 4. B ede tel ls u s that Ethel bert built th e fi rst ch u rch of St Paul i n

o f A London , and t he site th e present Westm inster bbey was also occupied by a Ch ristian chu rch . Many oth er ch urches were buil t in various parts of London , and were

a s ded icated to national and local saints , such St D unstan ,

O . St Botol ph , St syth , and St S with in

it s n From the time of conversion , Londo stead ily

s e a grew , an d l earn ing and cul ture came from over th e M to its people . onasteries were founded , and monks

t o o f from th e continen t came fil l t hem . Th e arts arch i tecture , pai nting, an d music developed , and a brigh ter an d better l ife for th e in habitants o f London was th e resul t . T h e Ch ristians of th e sevent h an d eigh th cen t u r ies were qu ite unl i ke th e pirates and plu nderers of

. a s earl ier days Peace had settl ed on th e land , and , a

t o result , comm erce brough t rich es London . Early i n th e n in th century , however , a new en emy appeared at th e gates of London , an d for a long tim e th e Danes h arried A t 8 th e city . l ength , i n 3 9 , th ey captured i t , and made i t their h eadquarters . Th e task o f th e Danes w a s com

a ra t i ve l a s p y easy , for th e Engl ish were not d istingu ish ed a s n o t fi builders , they had strength ened th e forti cations of

London . A t th e time of th e occupation of L ondon by th e Danes ,

A w a s h is t o lfred k ing, an d h e made i t ai m recaptu re th e

a s ci ty . H e recogn ised th e value of London a possession , 8 and i n 84 th e city fell i n to h is hands . Th e name of A lfred is im perishably connected wi th Londo n , and on e o f o u r h istorians goes s o far a s t o sa y t hat A lfred gave u s

1 1 8 EAST LONDON

w a s B ishop of Rochester , th e arch i tect , and the Wh ite Tower as we s e e it to - day is th e most important remnant of Norman London .

1 1 00 o f In th e year , H enry I granted th e ci tizens

London a second charter , and from th e advantages i t con ferred we may m easure th e growing i mportance of

fi o f M the ci ty . We have th e rst record th e ayor of

1 1 0 Fi t z a il w i n Lon don i n 9 , when Henry was elected to that h igh position , wh ich was h el d by h im for twenty

. w a s c o mmu n a fou r years London recogn ised as a , or fully

1 1 1 w organ ised corporation i n 9 , an d h en Ki ng Joh n was quarrell ing with the barons, th e Londoners took t he side M of th e latter . Th e agna Carta specially secured to London its rights and customs as obtai ned in previous charters , and gave it the power to el ect its mayor an nually . It also ordai ned that the Mayor o f London Should aid the

- t o o f twenty four lay peers compel th e king, by force arms, t o keep the Charter . Th e reign of Edward III was remarkabl e i n th e h istory o f t o London , for royal charters were granted some of th e

- w craft gilds , an d h encefor ard the Li very Compan ies had

a d irect share in th e government o f th e city . Th e power

o f th ese compan ies was enormous , and it was mai nly owing t o them that London became th e fi rst i ndustrial and co rn

m e r c i a l city i n th e kingdom . Th e Londoners o f th e t i me o f Richard I I showed

fo r thei r power, th ey refused th e king a l oan , and though

wa s he depri ved t h em o f t h ei r charters , i t not long before

h is they were resto red . Wh en Wat th e Tiler and followers ’ i i n 1 8 1 i n entered London 3 , Joh n of Gaun t s palace the H ISTORY 1 l 9

w a s o f . Savoy burn t , and some t h e prisons were opened Wh ile Richard h imsel f was meeting some of th e insu rgents

M o f at ile End , a large body th em broke i nto th e To we r and murdered th e Chancel lor and th e Treasu rer , and

ffi . t o oth er o cials Next day , R ichard ventu red agai n meet

w a s s o th em . Wat th e Tiler , th ei r spokesman , insolen t

M . that Wal worth , th e ayor of L on don , cut h im down Th e angry multi tude were d ispersed after th e king h ad promised that th ei r grievances should be remedied . 1 1 King H enry V entered London i n triumph i n 4 5 ,

A . after h is great victory at gi ncou rt Richard Wh ittington ,

h is th e mayor , en tertained h im at a banquet at own pri vate house , and th e citizens were most en thusiastic i n f th ei r reception o th e victorious monarch . Th e king ’ attended a thanksgiv ing serv ice at St Paul s, and th en

h is reti red t o palace at Westm inster . Th e reign o f H en ry V I is memorable i n the annals of 1 0 London fo r th e capture of the ci ty by Jack Cade i n 45 .

o f W ith a large force Kentish men , Cade entered Lon don

t o without meeting with any resistance , and , rid i ng u p

London Stone , h e struck it with h is sword , exclaim ing , ” Now is Mortimer lord of th is c ity . For th ree days h is followers plundered and bu rnt , u ntil by th e exertions of th e mayor and al dermen , th e rebels , wh o had reti red

t o S o f . outhwark , were shu t out th e city

o f Wh en th e Wars t h e Roses began , th e Londoners espoused th e cause of th e Yorkists, an d wh en Ed ward o f

o f York appeared before the gates L ondon , th e citizens A recei ved h im with acclamation . l ittl e later , th e people met on e Sunday i n an Open space near Clerken well , 1 20 EAST LONDON and wi th th e fam il iar shout of “ Yea ! Yea l ” chose

w t o o f Ed ard IV be th eir king . To th e day h is death th is monarch was popular wi th th e citizens of London . Th e story of London under th e Plantagenets ends with

w h o t he reign of Ri chard III , l ike h is broth er , Edward IV , w a s i nv ited by th e mayor and ch i ef citizens to be K i ng of England . D uring th e Tu dor period London continued to grow i n i mportance . Reference wil l be made i n another chapter t o th e dissolution o f the rel igious houses i n th e reign of

n H enry VIII , but h ere we may ote that London was th e ch ief scene of th e burni ng o f heretics at Sm it h fi el d i n

M . the reign of ary Wh en El izabeth was on th e th ron e , th e capital Showed its patriotis m by i ts li beral con tributions o f fo r men , money , an d sh ips t h e purpose of resisting th e A th reatened attack of th e rmada . U nder th e Stuarts t he h istory of London assu mes even greater i mportance . O wi ng to th e exactions of S th e tar Chamber i t Sided with th e Roun dh eads, and became the centre o f Presbyterian ism an d of opposition 8 t o . 1 6 w a s th e king In 4 , th e city occupied by th e

w a s b e C romwell ian troops, and next year Charles I h eaded at Wh itehall . Cromwell was proclaimed Lord 1 6 Protector of England i n 5 3 , and aft er h is deat h London ’ 1 6 w a s occupied by Monk s troops . Th e year 6 0 witnessed

o f w a s t he Restoration Charles II , wh o recei ved back to h is kingdom w ith t he greatest satisfaction by Londoners . Th e reign of C harles II is memo rable in th e h istory o f 1 66 London for two great events . The Plague of 5

O f turned th e capital i nto a c ity mou rn ing and desolation ,

1 22 EAST LONDON and it is calculated that about Londoners died of that fel l d isease . The following year witnessed another d i re calam ity , for th e Great Fi re destroyed no less than

8 . houses and 9 chu rches Th is disaster , however, proved beneficial to Lon don , for the ci ty was rebu ilt i n an improved form . Its streets were w idened , and th e wooden houses gave place to bu ild ings o f ston e a n d brick . Th e Monument on F ish Street H ill w a s fi n ish ed i n 1 677 a s a 2 02 memorial of th e Great Fi re . I t is feet h igh , and stands at a distance of 2 02 feet from th e spot wh ere t h e

2 1 666. fi re first broke out on September , I t was not till the reig n of Queen A nne t hat London

t o began assume anyth i ng l ike its present appearance . It w a s during h er reign that th e results were evident of ’ ’ Wren s rebu ild ing of th e Cathedral of St Paul s , an d many ch urch es in th e city . Du ri ng th e eighteenth

a n d centu ry London increased i n size and population , during th e latter part o f th at period som e o f i ts hand so m es t o f streets were made , an d some its fi nest build ings

w a s erected . G reat i nj ury i n fl icted on th e city by th e

Gordon Ri o ts of 1 7 80 . Lord George Gordon put h imself at th e h ead o f Londoners wit h th e cry o f ” Po e r l No p y Prisons were destroyed , th e prisoners

rel eased , an d mansions burned or pillaged . Th e rioters were n o t subdued till hundreds of th em had been killed

and L ord George Gord o n sent t o th e Tower . A n important even t in th e social l ife of th e city w a s

th e l igh ting o f th e streets w ith ga s . Pall Mall w a s fi 1 8 0 th e rst street thus l igh ted i n 9 , and B ishopsgate

o f Street followed i n a sh ort ti me . Th e story London 9 H ISTORY 1 “ 30 th rough out th e n ineteenth century is o n e o f remarkable

h a s n o w growth an d expansion , an d London made good

n o t r o n e o f its claim to be only t h e la g est , but also t h e

finest cities in the world . Th e Metro pol ita n B oard o f Works w a s formed i n 1 8 5 5 t o look after th e san i tary 1 8 8 arrangements of London , an d i n 9 th is body gave place to the London Coun ty Council , whose ai m must “ t o be , in th e words of Lord Rosebery , make i t more and more worthy o f i ts cen tral position of i t s great

it s h istory , an d of imm easurable destin ies .

1 s 7 . A nti q u ities P reh i tori c , Rom an ,

Sax on .

Th e cond itions of man ’s ex istence on th e earth during

o f h i the early stages s h istory are sh rouded i n obscu ri ty . Th e earl iest ev idence o f th e presence O f man i n Lon don is not by written records , but by i mplements of ch i pped

t o fl i nt . The very earl iest of th ese implements belong a

o u r w a s ti me when country joi ned to th e con t i nent , an d

th ei r age must be reckoned by t h ousands , i f not by tens ,

o o f . and possibly hund reds , of th usands years A ntiquaries have divided th is early period o f o u r ’ ’ c o u n t r s h is t o r A e A e y y i nto th e Stone g , t h e B ronze g ,

A e and th e Early I ron g . It must not be though t that ,

A e w a s i n t he B ronze g , Ston e d iscarded for many

w a s n o u s e purposes , or that bronze longer i n common

. O n after th e d iscovery of iron th e contrary , each material su rvived long i nto th e succeed ing period ; bu t 1 24 EAST LONDON th is classificat ion i s con ven ien t a s i t shows th e material

u s e A ch iefly in . Th ese th ree ges or Periods cover a vast

sa extent of time , but it is not n ecessary to y how many

fo r years are included i n each of th em , we can not be certain when one age ended and th e next began . Th e Stone Age has been furth er di vi ded i nto th e

o r im l e Palaeol ith ic older section , i n wh ich th e fl int p men ts were formed simply by ch ippi ng , and th e Neol ith ic , o r n ewer section , i n wh ich they were more carefully

t o worked , and even pol ish ed . Th ere is reason suppose A th at an i mmense period of ti me separated th e two ges . Palaeol ith ic implements had no doubt been found before it was recogn ised that th ey belonged to a remote past ; but th e first recorded d iscovery of th e ki nd was made in A London towards th e end of th e seventeenth centu ry . ’ fine pear- shaped i mplemen t was found wit h an elephant s ’ tooth near Gray s Inn Road , and was described , wrongly

o f . cou rse , as a B ritish weapon As London l ies in th e vall eys of the Thames and

is so Lea , i t not at all remarkable that many traces o f man are found with in th e borders of the county . B oth river- valleys hav e yielded many examples of fl i nt f weapons and im pl ements o th e Palaeol ith ic Age . In th e bed of th e Thames a good many Specimens have been

foun d at various ti mes , an d th ey are frequently brough t

up i n th e course of d redging operations .

Palaeol ith ic sites have been traced at Stoke Newington ,

Stamford H ill , Ki ngsland , and i n th e City of London , and many Speci mens o f fl int im plemen ts fro m these l ocal ities are t o be seen in the B ritish Museum . Some flakes foun d

1 26 EAST LONDON best way of learn ing about stone i mpl ements is t o v isit M M ei ther th e B ritish useum or th e Guildhal l useum , and m th ere , with a good gu ide , to exa ine th ese i nteresting rel ics of antiquity .

A e When th e Neol ith ic g began , Great B ri tai n had ceased t o be a part o f th e conti nen t an d was an islan d . Th e cl imate had become more temperate and m rath er moist , wh ile such an i mals as th e ammoth had

M a n become extinct . had n o w learnt t o train an imals fo r u s e domestic ; an d h e culti vated cereals for food , and

t o various plants provi de materials for woven garments .

He used th e bow as h is weapon , and he h ad also developed

th e art of making pottery . In the Neol i t h ic A ge i mplemen ts and weapons were commonly hafted and made i n a greater variety o f

forms ; and by th e add ition of grind ing and pol ish ing, it was foun d possibl e to u s e oth er hard stones besi des

flin t . Wh ile th e gri ndi ng an d pol ish ing of stones may

be considered th e special characteristic of th is period , i t

n o t must be supposed th at th is was al ways th e case . For

instance , a large an d i mportant class of im pl ements an d

a s - weapons, such kn ives , scrapers, and arrow heads , were

o r but rarely ground pol ish ed , wh il e even axes of fi ne workmansh i p were sometimes fi n ish ed by sim ply ch ipping

them . A mong th e i mplements found i n London belongi ng t o th e Neol ith ic A ge may be mentioned cel ts from Padd ington and Southwark ; scrapers from London Wal l A an d Battersea ; a fl in t kni fe from dd ison Road , Ken

sington ; and fl in t flakes from F u l h a rn and Hammersmi th . ANTIQ U ITIES 1 27

As A e th e Neol ith ic g advanced , man gradual ly l earn t

u s e O f the metal , and from th is i mportant step i n h uman progress we find traces o f h is rapi d ad van ce i n all d irections . Th e period from th e begi nn ing o f metallu rgy down t o the dawn o f written h istory i s gen eral ly d i v ided into t w o

— a n A e A e parts earl ier o r B ronze g , an d a later g Of A I ron . mong th e an tiqu ities foun d i n London belonging to the B ronze Age may be m entioned a bronze sword m of leaf form fro th e V ictoria Embankment , a bronze

- dagger blade from th e Th ames, an implemen t of red — deer horn from Ph il pot Lane , an d a fragmen t of pottery ornamented wi th h erring- bon e pattern from Hamm er sm ith . B esides t hese antiqu ities, socketed celts, winged cel ts, an d palstaves h ave been foun d i n various parts of

o f t he county London . Un der th e portico of the British Museum are some — ” dug o u t boats wh ich possibly date from th e B ronze

A e . t o o u t g Th ey belong a common type , formed of

- a tree trunk spl it l ength wise , th e work of holl owing th e

o r interior being performed by tools of ston e bronze , and

n e probably by fire . O of them was found du ring ex c a va t io n s for t he Royal A l bert D ock at Nort h Woolwich

1 8 8 . w a s i n 7 Th e oak trunk carefully worked , th e bottom an d sides bei ng flat and rectangular , but t here

o r are no signs of keel , stretch ers , rowlocks . Wh en th e knowledge of i ron and th e valuable pr o pe r t i es i t possessed became known i n B ritai n i t is probable that the n ew metal supplanted bro nze in the manufactu re o f a s - such im plements sword blades , daggers , and kn i ves . Iron is bel ieved t o have been brough t i nto o u r country by 1 28 EAST LONDON

o f t h e B rythons, a branch th e Celtic fam ily , and from

o f t hem o u r island recei ved its name B ritain . D uring the

A e Iron g , man i n B ritain made great progress in culture

o f and th e arts, an d th e antiqu ities th is period bring us

E n a m elled B ronze S h ield (f r o m {h e Th a m es a t B a t t er s ea

t o o f o M down th e conquest B ritain by the R mans . any art icles of great inte rest belonging to the Early Iron Ag e

k o f have been found i n Lond on , and th ey i ncl ude al l inds

a s fi a perso nal ornaments , such bulae , h irpins , and rings ,

1 3 0 EAST LONDON o f l th e B ritons, th e early Ce tic people i n ou r land . If th e word London is d erived fro m Caer - Lud after a Ki ng Lud of Celtic h istory , th en we have i n th e present name of th e

o f county a direct l ink with th is early period our h istory . Th e Roman remains fo un d i n the county Of London are very numerous , and from them we are able to picture

o f a o to oursel ves th e l ife its peopl e two thousand years g . It has been said that th e t wo ch ief events in th e h istory o f Roman London are the build i n g of t he bridge and th e bu ildi ng of th e walls, but as both of th ese are considered i n other chapters we n eed make n o further reference to them h ere .

Roman London may be termed a buried city , for all its remains have been fou nd many feet below the level o f A th e present streets . mong th e smaller antiquiti es found

a s fib u l a e have been personal ornaments, such bronze , rings, brooch es, hai rpins , earri ngs, an d gems, and many of th ese articles have been disi nterred i n various parts of

o f n th e City London , especially in Londo Wall and A ldgate . D omestic utensils and appl iances are frequen tly unearthed , such th ings for example as Roman balances ,

o f bowls bronze , forks, kn ives, and Spoons, wh ich h ave M V been found near th e ansion H ouse , i n Queen ictoria

Street , and i n London Wal l . Iron lamps and lamps of glazed ware have been unearthed i n Loth bu ry and B road

Street , and all k i nds of tools, such as ch isels , axes , adzes , and piercers have been d iscovered i n London Wal l and at Wapping . Very numerous d iscoveries have been made o f a s - metal obj ects such bells, c hains, and horse furn itu re

A . at Southwark , ustin Friars , and Walbrook AN'I‘ IQ U ITIE S

A mong the more in terest ing Roman remains i n fi London may be mentioned gu res and statuettes in metal , M clay , an d terra cotta . In th e Guild hall useum t h ere is fi n e o f a very coll ectio n these o bj ects , and statuettes o f A M M pollo , H ercules, Ju no , ercu ry , ars , an d V enus are qui te numerous . From them we get a good id ea o f o f Roman art , and also a real isation th e ch ief Roman dei ties . Fro m th e Roman remains i n London we can p icture to oursel ves th e i nte rnal decorations of th e houses of t he

No 0 ci tizens . less than 4 mosaic pavements , eith er com plete or i ncomplete , have com e to l igh t , and of these t h e most beaut i ful an d pe rfect is the mosaic pavemen t

B u c kl e r s b u r 1 86 . foun d i n y i n 9 It is composed of red , wh ite , grey , an d black tesserae ; th e lowe r and main

is o f portion i n th e form a parallelogram , w h ile th e

is — u pper part sem i ci rcular . Th e cen tral dev ice is a

flo ral design , su rrounded by a cabled ban d , and enclosed ff wi t h i n two squares of ornamen t placed at d i eren t angles , w hav ing a floral dev ice at each corner . B et een th e upper ,

is and lower portions a b road band of flo ral scrolls . Th e upper semi - ci rcular portion h a s a fan - Shaped dev ice in the

centre , above wh ich is a pattern of scale ornamen t , and

o f th e border consists a knotted band . Th e w h ole design o f t h is fi n e mosaic pavemen t is en cl osed i n a bo rder o f

red tesserae . Roman glass and pottery have been found very ex

n ive l t e s y i n various parts of London . Glass urns and

a s a s bottles, wel l bowls , cups, and d ish es of glass are

o f of considerable value on accoun t thei r form and colou r ,

9 1 3 2 EAST LONDON and th e pottery of various wares makes perhaps the most striking appeal to a v isitor t o the Gu ildhall Museum .

H ere may be seen urns, vases , bowls, and cu ps of Sam ian A an d U pchurch wares, wh ich have been dug out i n ldgate ,

London Wal l , B ishopsgate , Lombard Street , and oth er

Lon don S tone , Can non S treet

(F r a n z a n o l d p r i n t )

’ 1 6 o n places . In 7 7 , t he Site of the present St Paul s , a

a s Roman kil n was d iscovered , wh ere coarse pottery well a s all ki nds of tiles were manufactured . Th e Romans had bu rial - places and tombs i n B o w ’ Lane , Camom ile Street , Corn h ill , and St Paul s C hurch yard , and sarcophagi of stone and marble have been found

1 3 4 EAST LONDON G racechurch Street are without doubt of Early Engl ish

t o St origin ; and th e church es dedicated St Botolph , Al l Eth elburga , and Hallows rem ind us of some of th e

A is early sain ts . gain , the same influence ev i dent i n th e

t o — a s ff usage day of such words alderman an d sheri , and

- — o f th e name of th e meeting place of th e councillors th e

Guildhall .

1 8 . a A rch itectu re . ( ) E cclesi asti cal ’ s Med i eval Ch u rc hes . Wren City

C h u rches . When we consider t he ecclesiastical arch itecture of

fin d ff London , we that it occupies qu ite a di erent position from th at of the other English counties . In these , as

w o f o l d we kno , there are h undreds churches, some dating from Norman and even earl ier times , but i n

London the maj ority of the churches are modern . Th is

is t o 1 666 fact , of course , largely owing t he Great Fi re of , wh ich swept away some of the finest church es of th e earl ier periods .

o f Before we notice t he results the G reat Fire , i t will be well t o glance at the ecclesiastical cond ition of Lon don

o 1 fi k u s prior t 666. Perhaps the rst t h i ng that stri es is th e large number of parishes, each wi t h i ts own chu rch ,

Fi t z s t e h e n with in the walls of ancien t London . p tells us that i n h is time th ere were 1 3 la rg e conventual chu rch es 1 2 6 and lesser paroch ial ch urch es ; and later Stow , the 1 2 great h istorian of L ondon , gi ves a l ist o f 5 churches , ’ i nclud ing St Paul s and Westm inster A bbey . ' ‘ " — ARC H I I EC URE ECCLES I ASTICAL 1 3 5

A t t he present time th e C ity o f Lo ndo n h a s many fi n e ch u rches ; an d from the Surrey side of th e Thames o n e is struck with th e lofty steeples and spires that tower i n th ei r beauty above th e wareh ouses and places o f

u s business . Let th in k fo r a moment what place th e

o church occupied i n t he med ieval li fe of L ndon . Then the resident population o f the City w a s much greate r than

is n o w o f A t i t , and many th e parishes were very small .

w a s fi every street corner rose a c hurch , an d the City lled

wi t h p riests, friars, and other m inisters of the ch urch .

o f Whi le some t h e chu rches were small , many were rich

b ea u t ifie d an d costly build ings, wh ich had been and

o f adorned by th e lov i ng thought many generations . Th e ch urch then occup ied a la rg e part of th e daily

w h o l ife of th e people , were expected to attend the many services i n thei r parish ch urch es . Th e gilds and trade

n o com pan ies went t o church i n state . Th ere were

Al l t o sectarian d i fferences as n o w . the people belonged

i t s th e one Church , and serv ices were part of t hei r daily

a s a s l ife , much thei r work , t h ei r food , an d thei r rest . We need n o t go i nto details a s to the changes that

t o were brough t about by th e Reformation , or th e ravages

of t he Great F i re . We may note , however , in passing 8 1 666 that 9 ch urches were destroyed i n , and Of them A only 45 were rebu ilt . mong the chu rch es that escaped ’ ’ G il e s s the Great Fi re we re St Cri pplegate , S t H elen s ’ Sm i t hfi e l d B ishopsgate , St Bartholomew s , St Kathe rine ’ L ea de n h a l l A l l O l a ve s Cree St reet , Hallows Barking, S t ’ ’ E t h e l dr e da s P E t he l b u r a s Hart Street , St Ely lace , St g A B ish opsgate St ree t , S t ndrew U ndershaft , and t h e ’ S t G i l e s s , Cripple g ate

1 3 8 EAST LONDON St Sav iour ’s Cathedral and Lambeth Palace Chapel it ex h ib it th e Early Engl ish style at s best . The transepts an d choir of Westm inster A bbey are most beauti ful

o f exampl es of Early Engl ish , but th is building, wh ich illustrates Engl ish Goth ic arch itecture i n al l its phases, we must defer o u r consideration for th e volume o n West

o Lond n .

’ s T h e N ave , S t S avio u r Cat h edral

Th e Early Engl ish style flourish ed from 1 1 5 4 t o 1 2 70 and gave place t o th e h ighest development of Got h ic

t he Deco rated , wh ich prevailed th rough ou t the greater

w a s part o f th e fourteen t h century , and particularly

i t s characterised by elabo rate wi ndow t racery . The

E t h e l dr e da P chapel of S t i n Ely lace , H ol born , and the

o f l ower chapel of St Steph en i n th e H ouses Parliament , W e s t m i n s ter Abb e y 1 40 EAST LONDON

ill ustrate th e Early D ecorated , wh ile the wi ndows i n t he A ’ nave of th e ustin Friars Church , and the south t ransept ’ o f St Saviour s Cath edral gi ve a good idea of the work of t he Late D ecorated period . The Perpend icular is th e name given t o th e last period of Goth ic arch itecture i n England ; i t establ ished itself from th e D ecorated towards th e en d of th e fourteenth century and was i n use till about the mi ddle o f th e

a s Sixteenth century . Th e Perpen dicular , wh ich , its

is name impli es, remarkable for th e perpendicular arrange 0 o f ment the tracery , and also for th e flattened arches and t he square arrangemen t of the mould ings over them , is seen only i n England . It is to the Perpend icular period th at th e o l d chu rch es situated in th e north ern and eastern parts of th e City ch iefly belong . Th ey are ’ ’ ’ G il es s E t h e l b u r a s St Cripplegate , St H elen s an d St g ’ A O l a ve s B ishopsgate , St ndrew U ndershaft , St Hart S A l l treet , Hallows Barking, and St Peter ad V incula with in th e Tower . Th e Old ch urch es at Hackney , Stoke

Newington , and H ornsey also date from th is period . Th ere is n o t space t o go i nto detai ls w ith regard to t h e ol d chu rches O f th e parishes outsid e the C ity of

As ff Lon don . a rule th ey are not elaborate , and O er few examples of artistic detail . I n no way do th ey compare ff favourably w ith those of Essex , Su olk , or Norfolk , ei ther

o f i n point Size or beauty of parts . Plainness and sim pl icity are th e characteristics o f these churches ; and th e plans are almost always a nave and chancel , a south porch , and a western tower . Thei r arch itects had t o build wi t h th e materials th ey could command an d

’ S t D u n s t a n s - i n - t h e - E a s t ARCH ITECTU R E— ECCLES IASTICAL 1 43

generally acknowledged that t h e results were excellen t . A recen t wri ter says : Noth i ng t hat h a s been ach ieved i n modern arch i tectu re h a s su rpassed t h e beauty o f th ei r

o f steeples , not only from th e el egance each , but for th ei r complete variety , wh ile at t he same t ime i n harmony with one anoth er . No two are al ike . Th e view of

S t Cle m ent D ane s th e Ci ty Of London from th e old Blackfriars B ridge — u p t o th e m iddle o f th e last century must have been scarcely su rpassed in any coun t ry : and al l th is w a s the ” work of o n e man l A mong the best o f Wren ’s churches in th e eastern

: part of London , th e following are t he most noteworthy 1 44 EAST LONDON

’ S M ’ ’ S t B ride s Fleet treet , St ichael s Corn h ill , St Steph en s ’ D u n s t a n s - in - - Walbrook , St Lawrence Jewry , St the East , ’ ’ St M Swith i n s Cannon Street , and St agnus London ’ B ri dge . Wren s ch urch es are remarkable for th e variety and original ity shown in t heir design th ei r elegant proportions are noteworthy an d satisfacto ry ; and it may safely be said that n o subsequent English church arch itect

fi n has approach ed the e work of Wren .

’ s W S t Step h en , albrook

Refe rence has al ready been mad e t o th e handsome ’ o f B o w steeples of W ren s chu rches , but th ose Church , ’ Ch eapside , and St B ride s, Fleet Street , are the most ’ o f fi admi rabl e examples . St B ride s steeple is one th e nest ’ is creations o f Wren s gen ius ; i t o f qu ite unusual type , Showing a series of Six octagons d im in ish ing a s th ey ascend .

— ARCH ITECTU RE ECCLES I AS TICAL 1 47 is th e cen tral O bject and most p rom inen t feature o f

modern London . Th e present Cathed ral o f St Paul is th e th i rd that has

Stood upon th is site . Th e first cathedral is said to have 61 been built by K ing Et helbert i n 0 . We know l ittle

w a s o f about i t , but i t bu rn t down i n th e reign Wi ll iam

. 1 08 th e Conqueror In 7 a second cath ed ral was begun , and th is great bu ild ing took n early t w o h un dred years t o ’ u r is l d t . o a s complete I n h istory i t known O S Paul s . 0 2 0 Th e buil d ing was 5 9 feet long, an d th e Sp ire 5 feet

i n h eigh t . Near th e cath ed ral stood the cel ebrated Cross

St . of Paul , where sermons were regularly preach ed In ’ 1 666 O l d t h e Great Fire of Lon don i n , St Paul s was

w a s completely destroyed , an d th en i t that S i r Ch ristopher Wren was entrusted with t he work o f plan n ing and

is fi buil ding th e present cath edral , wh i ch the nest build ing

of th e City . ’ St Paul s Cath ed ral as we know i t t o - day was begun 1 6 1 1 in 7 5 and completed in 7 0 . Wren li ved long enough

o f is to enj oy th e completion h is work , and there a pretty

h o w h is Story of th e arch itect in great age , when h e was

t o o t o o u t feeble to walk , used be carried to enjoy th e i sight of h is fine bu ild ing . Th e cathed ral is indeed h s

monument , and over th e door on t h e i nsid e o f the south t ransept is a tabl et beari ng th is inscri ption i n Lat in ” m o n u m e n t u m r e u i r is c i r c u m s ic e Si q , p (If you seek h is

monument , look around). ’ O l d it s i t s St Paul s with lofty spi re , poi n ted w in dows,

w a s ff an d lofty , narrow arches qui te d i eren t from t he modern S t Paul ’s wi t h t h e d ome an d square or round

I O —2 1 48 EAST LONDON

topped windows . Th e former build ing was a magnificent triumph of Goth ic arch itecture , w h ereas th e presen t

is fi n e cath edral a exampl e Of th e Classical style , Showing, as it does, more than one order of Greek arch itecture . ’ Th e church resembles St Peter s at Rome , though on f o . a smaller scale , an d is i n t he form a Latin cross It is

00 1 1 8 . 1 02 5 feet i n length , and feet wide Th e dome is feet i n diameter , and the top of the cross wh ich su rmounts ’ t he dome is 404 feet above the ground . St Paul s is the th ird largest church i n Eu rope , being surpassed only by ’ f St Peter s at Rome and the Cathedral o M ilan . ’ Th e grand entrance o f St Paul s is i n th e western portico facing Ludgate H ill , an d is reach ed by a fligh t of marble steps . Th is western fac ade has Cori nth ian pillars in th e lower part , wh ile th ose in th e upper portion are

O n Composite . th e apex of th e ped iment is a colossal

o f figure of St Paul , and righ t and left are Statues St Peter

n i and St James . O each Side of th e fac ade s a campanile tower , w ith statues of the fou r evangel ists at the angles . Wh en we survey th e i nterior from the pri ncipal entrance we are able t o form a good idea of th e length of the nave . Th e i nterior is somewhat cold and bare , and al th ough much h a s been done of late years t o rel ieve th e

o f great stretches ston ework , it lacks th e warmth and ’ w a s colour o f St Peter s at Rome . Th e dome painted by

Thornh ill , and Si r Wi ll iam Rich mond has recently decorated th e roof of the ch o ir with coloured mosaic . Th e re red os is a costly and sumptuous structure of wh i te

Parian marble , and i n th e nave some p ictures by Watts and H olman H un t hav e been recently placed on th e pillars .

1 5 0 EAST LONDON

It is not necessary t o descri be in detail t he many ’ featu res of St Paul s, but i t is well to remember th at i t is

- N w one of the two great burying places of ou r nation . o ’ A St b e that Westmi nster bbey is nearly full , Paul s will used as th e place o f sepulture fo r o u r worth ies in th e days ’ that are t o come . Som e of England s greatest sailors l ie ’ buried i n St Paul s . Here l i e t he remains of Nelson , enclosed i n a wooden coffi n made from the mainmast of ’ l Or i en t th e French flagsh ip , , wh ich was captured at the

o f A . w battle th e Nile mong other sai lors of reno n ,

Coll ingwood , D un can , and Howe also rem in d us of th e triumphs of our navy . ’ Well ington was buried in St Paul s, and h is monum en t by Stevens is one of th e finest i n th e cathed ral . Sir

Si r M Henry Lawrence of Lucknow renown , Joh n oore

H e a t h fiel d the hero of Corunna , Lord , who held Gi braltar for Englan d , and Gen eral Gordon , who died at Khartum , are a few o f th e b rave sold iers who are remembered at ’ St Paul s by suitable memorials . ’ Not only are sailors and soldiers i nterred at St Paul s , o r me n commemorated by stately monuments, but of letters l ike D r Joh nson and Hallam th e h istorian , Si r ph ilanth ropists l ike Joh n Howard , and artists l ike Josh ua Reynolds and Lord Leigh ton have also memorials i n th is our national Pantheon . The numerous monu ments in St Paul ’s are not remarkabl e for th ei r artistic

fo r merit , but th ey have a deep interest all Engl ish men and rem in d u s that

Not once or twice i n o u r ro u g h i sland s tory w ” T h e pat h of D u ty a s t h e way to Glory . T ARC II I I‘ ECTUR E ECCL ES I ASTIC AL 1 5 1

’ is o f The crypt t he most in te rest ing portion St Paul s, fo r i n it are gath ered n early all th e tom bs that escaped the ’ i n w a s fi re O l d St Paul s . Here bu ried Si r Ch ristopher

o f Wren , an d here are th e sarcophagi Nelson and

A t is Well ington . th e west en d of th e crypt t h e h earse ’ used at Well ington s funeral , made from guns captu red by th e Duke .

T h e N el son M on u m ent

’ St Paul s is famous fo r i t s fine peal o f twelve bells

1 8 wh ich were hung i n th e nort h campan ile tower i n 7 8 . ” h a s Th e south campan ile tower G reat Paul , th e largest

w a s 1 8 8 2 bell i n England . It h ung i n , and weighs more than 1 6 to ns . The cath edral h a s been th e centre of ou r rel igious

I t s fo r l ife fo r t w o centuries . bells have rung publ ic 1 5 2 E AST LONDON

rejoicings and national thanksgi vings , and its great bell has sounded th e passing of great Engl ishmen . Perhaps th e most memorabl e service was that in 1 8 9 7 when Queen V i ctoria retu rned thanks to A lmigh ty G o d on th e occasion o f w a s h er D iamond Jub ilee . That service h eld outside ’ o n the cath ed ral , an d th e spot w h ere Queen V i ctoria s carriage stood an inscri ptio n has been cut in th e gran ite record ing th is noteworthy even t .

2 0 . e Arch itectu re . ( ) E cclesi astica l

T he Re l igi ou s H ou ses .

From th e previous ch apters on th e church es of London i t wil l be gath ered that the influence of th e Ch urch w a s very great during th e med ieval period . Not only were th ere 1 2 5 or more church es w ith i n th e Lon don o f that tim e , bu t there were also at least twen ty religious houses

o r either with in just without the City wall . Th e rel igious houses were possessed of great wealth , and besides the mon ks , friars, an d nuns , th ey retain ed a host o f ffi o cers and servants .

Now let us consider th e parts of a great monastery .

o f Th e chu rch course occupied th e ch ief place , for it was th e centre o f th e regular l ife ; i t w a s generally si tuated i on th e north side of the monastic build ings . N ext in m

C portance came the loisters , whose four walks surround ing

- t h e garth fo rmed th e dwell ing place of th e commun ity .

- w a s 0 11 C Th e chapter h ouse the east sid e of the lo isters, and

1 5 4 EAST LONDON

th e refectory, or common hall for all conventual meals, was generally placed as far as possi ble from th e ch urch . ffi Th e ki tch en and oth er o ces were n ear th e refectory , and r th e do mitory contained th e cubicles or cells , for each monk had a l i ttle chamber to h imsel f. Th e other ch ief

o f i n fi r m a r fo r parts a monastery were th e y, or house th e

- si ck and aged ; the guest house , always open to give

t o hospital ity strangers ; th e parlour , or place of business ; th e almonry , wh ere the poor could come and beg ; the

w r common room , wh ere the monks a med th emselves i n win ter ; and th e library , wh ere th e books and manuscripts

u were kept . From th is s mmary i t will be read ily under stood that the rel igious houses occupied a very large part o f s o med ieval London , an d although l ittle of th em is

t o - left day , their im portance before th e Reformation

n o must t be forgotten . Th e rel igious houses of London were d iv ided among

O is various rders of monks, friars , and nu ns, and i t inter esting to note that many o f th e streets of t h e City to- day retai n some of the old names wh ich were originally gi ven wh en th ese Houses were fo rmed . We have space suffi cient only t o glance at a few of th e ch ief O rders . The Benedictines are th e most ancient and th e most

O w a s learned rde r , and th eir House i n London known A y . as th e Priory of th e Holy Tri nit , ldgate It was

o f a House th e first importance i n London , and t he

Pope absol ved it from all j urisd iction . Springing from O t h is rder were th e Carthusians , wh o occupied th e

w h o Charter House in London , and the Cistercians, M A o f . h ad Eastminster . o r t h e bbey St ary of G race T h e Te m ple C h urc h 1 5 6 EAST LONDON

A t o Th e ustin Friars , said have been founded by A St ugustine , had a monastery , an d their name is still

t o O l d used descri be a Cou rt in B road Street . O Th e th ree great rders of mend icant friars, the Fran c isc a n s , Domi n icans , and Carmelites, were very popular i n London . Th e Franciscans, founded by St Francis A of ssisi , had Grey Friars House , wh ich latterly became ’ — Ch rist s Hospi tal , fam il iarly th e Blue coat School . Th e

Dom i n icans or B lackfriars , fou nded by St Domin ic , establ ish ed t hemsel ves i n th e local ity still known by th ei r name . Th e Carmel ites were the Wh itefriars, whose

House was in Fleet Street . Th e district around their

is n o w a s monastery even known Wh i tefriars, and for l a ong period it had th e p ri vilege of sanctuary , wh ich was n o t 1 6 abol ish ed till 9 7 . A mong the oth er O rders represen ted i n London were

C l u ri ia c s A t h e , who founded th e bbey of B ermondsey ; ’ w h o th e Black Canons were at St Barth olomew s, Smi th fi e l d ; an d the Canons Regular o f St A ugustin e w h o had

o f M O ve r ie is the Southwark Priory St ary , wh ich now the Cathed ral Chu rch o f South wark . Th ere were also t w o great m il itary O rders wh ich establ ish ed th emselves i n London—the Kn igh ts Hospital

fi n e lers of St Joh n at Clerkenwell , wh ere a gateway may still be seen (p . and the Tem plars, who have

o ff left thei r beautiful ch urch , t h e Temple C hurch Fleet

t o o n e o f Street , form th e most i nterest i ng arch itectural

is o n e rel ics of a bygon e age . Th e Tem pl e Church of

h a s four round ch urch es in England , and some monumen ts

' ’ o f I e m pl a r s o f th e twelft h and th i rteen th centuries . Th ey

1 5 8 EAST LONDON

h a s the ch u rch some striking Norman work i n th e choi r,

i n and also parts of th e nave an d transepts . The Special interest o f th e ch urch centres around th e tom b of th e

ffi o f R a h e r e i foun der . Th e recumben t e gy , the first pr or , i s under a rich vaulted canopy , the work of the fifteenth century . Th e crypt , recently excavated , is well preserved , and the ancient c h u r c hya r d o pe n s i nto Sm it h fiel d th rough

I nterior of S t B art h olo m ew t h e Great

’ is th e Old Norman arch . Close by St Bartholomew s

is f h o R a e r e . Hospital , wh ich also a foundation Such t h en were some of th e rel igious h ouses i n ’ V III S London before their d issolut ion in H en ry reign .

So w a s full L ondon of these foundations that , after they

f o r t io n s ' o f had al len , large p th e town were left desolate . Most o f t h e rel ics of th e various monasteries wh ich once ARCII ITE C ' ‘ U R E—ECCLES I AS TICAL 1 5 9 occu pied s o la rg e a part o f Lon don have been en t i rely swept away , and only th ei r names survi ve , eith er i n th e

o r l ocal ities wh ere they stood , i n some later scholastic or

h ospital foundation .

I t is generally adm itted . that most of th e rel igious

n o t houses were seats of learn ing, and i f it had been fo r

o f th e monks most of th e arts , and much th e science and scholarsh ip o f o u r country would have perish ed . Besides

ff m fo r all th is, th e monks o ered an asylu the poor an d

o f Oppressed , and i n an age un restrained passion th ey

o f — showed an exam ple self restrain t and poverty . The

t o o monks , , d id much practical work , for t he Thames was embanked at B ermondsey and Rotherh ithe by th e monks o f A t wo - B ermondsey bbey , an d thus those low lying

e . districts w re saved from floods However , Hen ry VIII was persuaded t o lay violen t hands on th e rel igious

n o w a s h ouses of England an d Wales, an d th is doubt

t o h is with a v iew to en rich h imself and reward court iers .

H is o n harsh action told very h eavily the poor , whose needs had t o be considered an d provided fo r i n some oth er way .

2 1 ’ — . A rch itectu re . (a ) M i l ita ry The W s al l and Gate s . T h e Tow er .

The need for th e protection o f L ondon wa s recog

n i s e d from th e earl iest years . We need not stay to consider the th eo ries w ith regard to th e defensi ve work of

t h e B ritons , but we w ill pass at once to the Roman period . 1 60 EAST LONDON

It is now generally accepted that the fi rst Roman fort w a s A foun ded by ulus Plautius i n the year 43 , and during recent years its site h as been examined . It stood above th e Wal brook, and extended from th e present Cannon

M o n Street Station on th e west to incing Lane th e east . 0 Th is Roman fort covered an area of about 5 acres, and w a s th e barracks , th e arsenal , an d the treasury of th e ffi station . I t was th e o cial resi dence , an d also contained

- th e law courts an d th e prisons .

Th e Romans , however , depended on thei r walls and thei r ar m s rath er than on th e fortified position o f the

o f town . Hence we may fairly consider the Wall

London as one of the p ri nci pal Roman bu ild ings, an d we shall not be far wrong in assigning the years betwee n ’ 3 5 0 and 3 69 for it s erection . Th e complete ci rcuit of th e wall can still be accurately traced from v a rious exist

o l d i s i ng remnants, and from plans an d records . I t certai nly remarkable that for more than fifteen hund red years th e boundary of th e City was determined by th is

fo r ff wall , and that som e purposes th e wall still a ects th e

o f government London .

w a s 1 0 o r 1 2 Th is remarkabl e wal l about feet th ick ,

w a s and probably from 2 0 to 2 5 feet i n h eight . I t com posed of ru bble and mortar, and faced with stone . Roman work may be known by the cou rses o f tiles or 2 bricks, wh ich are arranged i n double layers about feet

s o - apart . It may be mentioned that the called bricks are

n o t o u r at all l ike bricks , for t h ey generally measu re 1 8 1 2 inches in l ength , inches i n width , and inches in

A h e w a th ickness . t i ntervals t wall s st rengt hened wi th

ARCH ITE C ' ‘ URE MILITARY 1 63

0 towers an d bast ions about 5 feet h igh , an d afterwa rds

a there w s also a moat or d i tch outside th e enclosure .

Fit z s t e h e n w h o w p , wrote about Lond on i n th e t elfth “ a s o f centu ry , descri bes i t th e great and h igh wal l th e ci ty hav i ng seven double gates and towered t o the north at i ntervals ; i t w a s walled and towered i n l ike manner o n t he south , bu t the Thames has th rown down th ose ” walls . The wal l had a wal k all round , a parapet , and battlements, and part of t h e wall wh ich St ill sh ows th e walk an d battlements may yet be seen i n London Wall , wh ile another part of th e wall is i n th e ch u rchyard of ’ il e s G s . St , Cri ppl egate We need not go into details w ith regard to it s later h istory , but after th e departu re of t h e Romans i t fel l i nto

w a s A a ru i nous condition , and i t n ecessary for King lfred to rebuild an d Strengthen i t . O th er repairs were made at various times from the reig n of King Joh n t o that o f w Ed ard I V , but we must al ways remem ber that th e course of th e origi nal wall was n ever altered . Th e total

w w a s l ength of th e al l abou t 3 % miles , an d i t enclosed an area of 3 8 0 acres .

No w , hav ing consi dered th e nature of th e Roman defence of London , we may bri efly trace th e cou rse of th is formidable wall . If we begi n i n th e east w h ere th e

Tower now stands, we shall fi nd that i t fol lowed a course nearly north t o A ldgate an d th en tu rn ed o ff n ort h - west i . s to B ishopsgate Th ence i t conti nued , past what still

o t o Mo n kw e l l called Lond n Wall , St reet , wh ere i t turned A south til l ldersgate was reach ed . From here it ran west

t o t h e to Newgate , and at that poi nt turned due south

I I —2 Al d G ate B i s h op s G ate

M oor G ate Cripple G ate T h e G ate s of Lon don

(Fr o m o l d ! r i l l /s )

1 66 EAST LONDON

river at B lack friars . T hence its course was along th e r i ver bank to joi n i ts extremity at th e Tower . In th e river wal l t here were at least t w o ope n i ngs or gates

a s Do w a t e wh ich were known g and Queen h ith e . 1 60 Th e gates of th e City were finally removed i n 7 , an d by that year most of th e wall was gone . B esides

v those portions of the wall already m entioned , oth ers ha e been discovered where excavations have been made , an d th ere is n o dou bt that th e foundations still exist from o n e en d t o th e oth er o f th is remarkable Roman con struction . So much for th e walls and gates o f London ; we

n o w t o o f may pass th e Tower London , wh ich is th e

most celebrated fortress i n Great B ritai n , an d h istorically

h a s th e most i nteresting build ing i n Lon don . It existed

u for over eigh t cent ries, and trad ition even ascribes i t to Roman foundation . I t stands j ust wi thou t th e City

o n M walls, th e l eft or iddlesex bank of th e Thames, and ”

. S below bridge tow, th e great h istorian of London i n

th e Sixteenth century , th us descri bes i t Th e Tower is a citadel to defend o r comman d th e City ; a royal palace for assem bl ies or treaties ; a prison o f state for th e most dangerous offenders ; th e only place of coi nage for al l England at th is time ; th e armoury for warl ike p ro v isions ; th e treasu ry of th e ornamen ts an d j ewels of th e ’ Cr o wn ; an d general conserver o f th e Ki ng s courts of ” j ustice at Westm i nster . Th rough th e course of cen t u r ie s h a s i t been i n turns a fortress , a palace , and a

- is prison , wh il e to day i t a Show place carefully kept u p , ’ a s and ut il ised a sold iers barracks and a government arsenal . — ARCH ITECTURE MIL ITAR Y 1 67

a s Perhaps we may still consider t he Tower a fort ress ,

i t s but , before we review h istory and arch itecture , we w ill pause a momen t t o glance at a quaint ceremony that takes place eac h n igh t , after t h e gates are locked ,

n o o n e is and can enter w it hout the password , wh ich A t changed daily . a few m i nutes before eleven , th e yeoman porter takes h is keys and asks th e serjean t fo r

’ s S t Jo h n G ate , Clerkenwell

“ th e Escort for t he keys . The serjean t i nfo rms t h e o fli c e r , w ho , placi ng t h e guard u nder arms , furn ishes

Tw o a serj eant and fou r men . of th e men are unarmed , fo r th ey must close the gates , an d carry t h e ancien t lan tern , wh ich burns a tall o w candle . Th e procession is

o f th en formed , and i n the m idst th e escort is the yeoman porter w ith th e keys . H e goes th e roun d of th e gates,

1 7 0 EAST LONDON is named from th e menagerie o f l ions once kept i n the ’

. n is M Tower Th e L io s Gate under th e iddle Tower , A and is defended by a portcull is . Stone bridge over th e ’ t o moat leads the outer bailey , and h ere we see Traitors

w h o Gate , th e former entrance of state p risoners were brough t h ither by water . It is

m i s n a rn ed T h at gate , t h ro u g h w h ic h before

Went Sidney , R u ssell , Raleg h , Cran m er , More . A gateway opposite th e Traitors ’ Gate leads unde r th e

B loody Tower , wh ich was t he scene of th e murder of

o f th e young princes by command th ei r u ncle , R ichard III ,

is and we pass i nto th e In ner Bailey . Th is a wide ,

flagged courtyard , wh ere th e soldiers are d rilled , and in

i s th e centre rises th e fine keep of th e castle , w h ich now called th e Wh ite Tower .

A s w we h ave al ready remarked , the Wh ite To e r is th e most ancient part of th e fortress . I t is an immense w square bu ild i ng ith corne r turrets , and pierced with

h a s — Norman w i ndows and arch es . It four tiers th e vaults, th e mai n floor , t he banqueti ng floor , an d th e State

o f is 2 floor . Th e h eigh t th is keep 9 feet , and th e walls

o are from 1 3 t 1 5 feet i n th ickn ess . It was u nder th e stai rcase o f th e Wh i te Tower that th e bones of th e mur

is dered pri nces were found . The Chapel of S t Joh n on th e second floor , and wi th i ts massi ve p illars and cubi cal capi tals i s one of th e best Specimens o f Norman A arch itecture i n England . collection of ol d armou r o f great value and inte rest is now kept i n the t w o u pper

floo rs o f th e Wh ite Towe r . ARCH ITE CTUR E— MILITAR Y 1 7 1

O utsid e t h e Wh ite Tower is an i nte rest i ng collect ion

f o l o d . cannon , some dati ng from th e time of H enry VIII Th e Record o r Wakefield Tower co ntains th e Crown

Jewels, wh ich are kept i n a large vaulted c hamber ,

fo r under the strictest guard , th ei r value is esti mated at A glance at a plan of t he Tower will Show that altogeth er th ere are twel ve to wers o f th e Inne r

T h e W h ite Tower

W a s ard , and t hese were al l used at on e t ime prisons , A and h eld some most notable prisoners . mong th e most

o W celebrated may be named Joh n Bal i l , W ill iam allace , W Ki ng Henry V I , C ran mer , Si r Thomas yatt , Si r W ff A alter Ralegh , Earl o f Stra ord , rch bishop Laud ,

Lord Will iam Russell , th e Seven B ishops, an d the ff i n famous Je reys . 1 7 2 EAST LONDON

n o t w a s Th e Tower was only a prison , but i t also

. is o f a place of execution Tower Green , in deed , a Spot

w h o hallowed memories , for among those were beh eaded A h ere were nne B oleyn , th e Countess of Sal isbu ry , Lady

S i r T h o m a s M ore

o f f x e u . o e c Jane G rey , and t h e Earl Essex Th e place tion is now a gravell ed enclosu re , wh ich was railed i n by c o mman d of Queen V icto ria . Many ot her emi nent

a s M o n persons , such Si r Thomas ore , were executed l 7 4 EAST L ONDON

cou rts and gardens . Th ere is v e ry l ittl e to remi nd us of those times, and we must form ou r i deas from old p ri nts A and descriptions of th e City . fter th e Great Fi re ,

Wren drew up a plan to rebuild London , and i f h e had been able t o carry h is i deas i nto execution there would

fi n e have been a really city with broad streets . Instead — of a well plan ned city , however , th e houses sprang up

e on almost the sam Sites , and there remain ed nooks an d corners , quain t alleys an d courts, many of wh ich are still w ev iden t . London , h o eve r, changes so quickly , that ’ th ere are not many houses left of Wren s time . Every year the Ci ty becomes more and more a collection of ffi o ces an d warehouses, and even d uring th e last few years some h istorical houses have gi ve n place t o build ings

n o t that are u til itarian an d beautiful . Th e great palaces of London have always been i n the

o f w h a t o f s o West End we now call th e Coun ty London ,

t o . that in th is book we wil l not refer them Th ere are ,

t wo o f however , royal palaces i n th is eastern portion London wh ich were formerly of some note and may therefo re recei ve a passi ng notice . Th e ancien t palace

1 00 is of El tham dates from abou t 3 , and i nteresting as

r hav ing been th e reside nce of some of o u Engl ish ki ngs . From t h e time o f H en ry III t o that of H enry VIII i t w a s often t he scen e o f royal splendour an d feast ing and it s magn i fice n t banqueti ng- hall must have been a very sui table counci l chamber for th e meeti ngs con nected with

i t s fi n e state business . Th is hal l wi t h roof and beauti ful

a s a s o riel and oth er windows , well t h e ancien t bridge fi wh ich st ill Spans t h e moat , dates from th e fteenth centu ry . A RCH ITECTURE—DOMESTIC 1 7 5

G reenwich was also a r o yal residence as early a s

1 00 a n d w 3 , several of our monarchs ere born in th e

o r A palace l i ved there . mong othe rs, H en ry VIII , Queen M ary , and Queen El izabeth were born at Green wich

Palace , wh i le Edward V I d ied th ere . James I built

o n n a new brick front th e garde side , and afterwards i t passed i nto th e hands of Charles I , C romwell , an d

G re e nw i c h Ho s p i tal

- Charles II . Th e last named monarch pull ed down t h e

O l d building, and erected part of a ve ry fine palace , wh ich Queen Mary afterwards converted in to a hospital fo r

is seamen . Th is splend i d bu ild ing now th e Royal Naval

o f College , and th e Pai nted Hall is one i ts ch ief points o f i nterest . Now leav ing th e palaces we may pass o n t o consid er a few o f th e most in terest ing h ouses that formerly stood 1 76 EAST LONDON

in th e Ci ty , and also note th e very few that are still

Stan ding . We have already remarked th at London was a c ity of great houses and palaces , and i t is probable that few cities in Eu rope coul d compare with i t in th e M iddle ’ A No t ges . only d i d London then have its merchants

palaces, but th e town houses of th e ch ief nobles of th e

i t s . land were with i n borders In th e City alone , before A the Great Fire , there were houses of th e Earls of rundel ,

’ B a y n a r d s C a s tl e

North umberland , Essex , Rich mond , Warwick , and West

fi n e morland , an d also houses of th e b ishops and th e abbots . T hese great houses of th e nobles were al ways

o f built in th e form a quadrangle , an d of th em th e College o f A rms i n Queen V ictoria Street is a good ’

w a s . illustration , for it Lord D erby s town house ’ f B a yn a r d s Castl e stood o n th e banks o th e Thames ’ “ St w a s s o j ust below Paul s, and called after Baynard ,

’ S i r P a u l P i n d ar s Ho u s e ARCH ITECTUR E—DOMESTIC 1 7 9

- t he kin d in London , th e wel l kn own h ouse of S i r Paul

o i t s Pindar . Th e front t wa rds th e street , w ith gable ,

w a s o n e o f bay windows , and matchless panel work ,

o th e best Speci mens of the El izabethan peri d . I t was begun i n one o f th e closing years o f th e reign o f

o n h is El izabeth , t he return of i ts owner from residence

w a s i n Italy , an d i t stood i n al l i ts beauty till i t pulled down t o make way fo r Li verpool Street Station . Th e fi ne carved oak fron t of the house was th en presented by th e Great Eastern Rail way t o th e South Kensi ngton

M . useum , w h ere i t may still be seen C rosby Hal l w a s th e most i nteresti ng h ouse that sur v i v e d t o o u r fo r ow n day , i t was only pulled down and

1 08 . S removed in 9 It also was i n B ish opsgate treet , and was a most beautiful Specimen o f fi fteenth cen tury domestic arch itecture . Th e only remain ing build ing i n

London of i ts Styl e , i t was built by Si r Joh n Crosby i n

1 8 1 o u r o 4 , and has figu red largely in h ist ry . It was h ere that R ichard of Gloucester plan ned th e death of h is ’ R i c ha r d 1 1 1 neph ew , and i n S hakespeare s th ere are several

t o a s references it C rosby Place . Th e banqueting hall ,

fi n e with its timber roof, was very Splen d id ; and th e o riel window had stained glass represen ting th e armorial

w a bearings of i ts various owners . Wh en i t s pull ed

i t s down materials were carefully preserved , an d th e

is n o w r e- bu ilding erected i n Ch elsea . A nother buil d ing o f considerable h istorical and arch i t e c t u r a l i nterest is i n Fleet Street . It w a s bu ilt i n th e “ ’ ” o f reign James I , and in Pri nce H en ry s Room on

fi i s o l d a s a s t h e rst floor t h ere some panell ing, well — 1 2 2 Crosby H al l

’ ” s P P ri nce Henry alace , F leet Street — ARCH ITE CTU RE DOMESTIC 1 8 3

h a s o f with in . Th e bu ild i ng a handsom e stai rcase

fi n e coloured marbles , a banqueti ng hall , and statues an d

o f M pictures . Th e Hall th e erchant Taylors opens o n t o Th r e a dn e e dl e rn Street , an d is the largest of th e Co ’ is i t s panics Halls . Th e great hall a splen d id room ;

i t s wi ndows are rich i n stained glass , an d walls a re adorn ed by th e arms of th e members . Th ere are some

c o l good pictures and many royal portrai ts , w h il e th e

is lection of gold plate very valuabl e . Th e smal l but i nteresting crypt escaped the G reat Fi re . What we have said of th ese th ree Halls wi ll apply in a greate r o r l esser

t o a s degree t hose of such Compan ies th e Fish mongers , S M th e tationers, the Grocers, th e ercers , th e Salters , an d several oth ers .

2 — 3 . Com m u n i cation s A ncient and

Modern . T h e T h am es fo rm e rly

t he Norm al H igh w ay of Lon don . W Th e T h am es aterm en .

For many centuries th e ch ief h igh way o f Lon don w a s t he Thames , wh ich played a most i mportan t part

h a s i n th e l ife and h isto ry of t he Ci ty . London now developed t o such an extent t hat th e number o f people who u se th e Thames ei th er fo r busin ess o r pleasure is

. is o f h o w really very small It th e utmost i mportance , ever , that we S hould real ise that th e Thames made

w a s n o t London , for it t h e most important , i f th e only

COMMUNICATIONS 1 8 7

i t s passed from th e C ity at Newgate , and th roughou t enti re l ength from Kent to it s term i nation i n Wales w a s known a s f S . O n e o Watl ing treet th e smal l streets i n London ,

o f probably i n th e cou rse th e origi nal , still bears that name .

t w o o r B esides th e Th ames, the B ridge , and th e th ree

w a s main Roman roads, th ere th e Walbrook , a stream o f n o w o some importance th en , but wh ich is nly a matter

I t s of h istory . name is retai ned by a thorough fare by M the ansion House , an d wh en excavations are made th ere are evi dences of its former channel .

No w u s fo r t o let retu rn a Short time th e Thames,

w a s s o o f wh ich for long th e normal h igh way Lon don .

Wh en th e roads were few and bad , and wh en railways were u nknown , it was considered safer an d better to

o f move from place t place by means o boats o r barges . Londoners thus ran n o risk o f bei ng stopped by footpads “ o r o f h igh waymen , and th e Sil ent h igh way London w a s th en used as much for pl easu re as for busi ness . It was n o t till th e latter part of th e n i neteenth century t hat th e Thames was embanked , and with a l ittl e though t we are able t o real ise that i t was once broader than i t is t o — A t t o day . h igh t ide th e water came u p th e busy

w a s Street we now cal l th e Strand , wh ich t h en th e Stran d

o f w a s or shore th e ri ver . Wh en th e ri v er not em

w a s t o banked , i t not easy get into a boat wh en th e t ide “ ” w a s l o w s o , and i n several places stai rs were built wh ich allowed persons t o land o r embark at all states “ o l d of t he tide Th e popular Engl ish song, Wapping

l d - O u s o f . t o o Stairs , rem i nds th is fact Water gates, , 1 8 8 E AST LONDON

e were erected , and th es al lowed boats to come in at any t ime and , from th e l ittl e w harves wh ich th ey con t a in e d , the owners of t h e gate coul d embark at any time

W s T h e ater G ate , E m bank m ent G arden

A o f i n th ei r o w n barges . good example these water gates may sti ll be seen at t h e bottom of B ucki ngham

1 9 0 EAST LONDON

we find that th e watermen were made i nto a Company , and that th ey coul d furn ish men for the fleet . Th e watermen had th e sole righ t to carry passengers for h i re upon the Thames, an d were very zealous i n pro

e . 1 8 0 te ti ng th eir righ ts In 5 , a writer laments that “ the i ntroduction of steamboats has changed th e whol e characte r of th e Company , an d for every fifty watermen

’ i s o f L Tra tor G ate , Tower on don

is o n e i n the reign of El izabeth , th ere not more than n o w We may g o further and remark that practically

o n few steam boats n ow ply th e Thames, and passenger traffi c h a s almost ceased .

is o f o u r The Thames th e greatest interest i n h istory ,

o f and whole chapters m igh t be written th e processions,

i t s . happy and un happy , that have passed al ong stream COMMUNICATIONS 1 9 1

H o w many state priso ners have passed from th ei r trials at Westmi nster t o th ei r doom at th e Tower l Some of o u r greatest men h ave stopped i n th ei r boat outside th e

o f Tower, and , en teri ng i ts gloomy portals by way th e ’ t o b e Traitors Gate , have gon e to th eir cells, only be

f o n h eaded a ter a sh ort time Tower H ill . Th e Thames

S t o o carried th e even B ishops th e T wer , and i t became th e

o f S o f repository for a time th e Great eal England , wh ich

o James II i n h is flight th rew i nt th e water .

When Queen El izabeth d ied at Rich mond , h er body

t o was carried with great pomp by water Wh itehall , an d a con temporary poet thus wri tes

T h e Ogree n wa s bro u g h t by water to W h ite h al l ” At every stroke t h e oars did tears let fall .

Cowley the poet died at Chertsey and h is body w a s born e

by water to Wh i tehall , and Pope thus commemorates th is even t

O h l o s t l s , early w h at tears t h e river h ed

W s a d h en t h e po m p along h is bank s were led . Nor must we forget that a greater than Cowley was brough t i n great state by water from Greenwich to

N t o Wh itehall , for thus was elson carried h is last resting 1 place i n 8 0 5 . We must close our h istorical references t o th e Thames

by a brief glance at Pepys . We can not read much of “ Di a r a s th e y wi th out com ing across such a ph rase , By ” “ ” t o water Wool wich , or By water to Wh itehall . Th e Thames plays a most impo rtant part i n the Lon don o f

w h o w Pepys, an d righ t well did the diarist kno to amuse ’ 1 9 2 EAST LONDON h imsel f by usi ng th e ri ver i n going from one place of r h i ente tai nmen t to anoth er . Here are a few extracts from s “ D i a r o n A 2 1 662 : y ugust 3 , I walked all along Thames street but coul d n o t get a boat ; I offered eigh t Sh ill ings

t o for a boat attend me th is afternoon , and th ey woul d ’ u e e n e s not , it bei ng th e day of th e Q coming to town from Hampton Court . So we fai rly walked i t to Wh ite

t o o f Hall , and u p th e top th e new Banqueting House th ere , over the Thames , wh ich was a most pleasant place as any I coul d have g o t ; and all th e Show consisted ch iefly in th e number o f boats and barges ; an d two

o n e pageants, of a K ing , and anoth er of a Queene . A non come th e Ki ng an d Queen e i n a barge u nder 1 000 a canopy wi th barges an d boats I know , for we

s ee n o r coul d no water for th em , discern the Ki ng nor

A n . d s o W Queene th ey landed at h ite Hall B ridge , and ” o ff th e great guns on th e oth er side went . B ut now i t is time t o leave the Thames with its

- it s i t s merry making, pathos, and tragedies, and pass to th e more prosaic study o f the present - day commu nications o f o Lond n . Th e streets i n th e Coun ty of London are maintained fo r the most part by th e metropol itan borough counci ls and th e City Corporation . The London County

Council maintains th e roadway of th e cou nty bridges, of

o f . th e Thames tu nnels, and th e Victoria Embankment In the whol e of th e county o f London there are 2 1 3 5

i n m iles of publ ic roads an d streets, an d these are kept an excell ent state of repai r . With regard t o rail way commun icati ons we fi n d that n o fewe r t han t e n trunk l ines h ave t h ei r term i n i i n

1 9 4 EAST LONDON

Tramways have not yet been allowed t o penetrate into the heart of London , but th ey are largely used i n

a n d M th e north ern southern portions . ost of th e tram

t o way li nes belong th e London County Council , an d with few exceptions th ey are electrified . Th e ch ief Starting- po ints of th e trams for South L o ndon are from

e e s Fle t Str et , looki ng E a t

fo r r M r th e Embankmen t ; No rth London , f om oo g ate ’ St reet and th e bottom o f G ray s Inn Road ; for East London from B loomsbury and A ldgate ; and for No rth

West London from Tottenham Cou rt Road . There a r e 1 2 o f about 4 miles train ways in London , and wit h t h e exce pt i on o f a l ow - level underground tramway from COMMUNICATI ONS

’ t o A l dw c h Th eo bald s Road y , t hey are all above th e surface . Th e t r a fli c o f London is at presen t i n a state o f ’ transi t io n owing t o th e advent of moto r buses . These

- are gradually su persed ing th e horse drawn veh icles, and

n o t 1 8 al th ough th ey were i ntroduced till 9 9 , th ey are

h a s now m ore than 1 2 00 i n nu m ber . Th e om n i bus

o long played a most i mportan t part in Lon don l comotion , ’ an d from t h e t o p of a b u s o n e gets some i nsigh t i nto th e l ife of th e City . We now c o me to th e last means o f locomotion i n

o f London . Th e London cabs have taken th e place th e o l d Hackney coach es and are n o w of th ree ki nds “ ” - - o the four wheeler , th e two wh eeler , or hans m , and “ ” - i th e motor taxi cab . Th e l atter class s rap idly i n “ o f c reasi ng, wh i le th e hansom will soon be a th ing th e past . No city i n th e world is s o well p rov i d ed w it h t h e

i t s means of locomotion as London , and h istory al lows us

a fi a i rs to com pare th e state of at various periods . London w a s f - amed for its coach ing houses till th e ad ven t of rai lways , an d the coach es that ran from Lon don t o all parts of Eng land were noted for th ei r speed . In th e re ign of Charles II “ M ” th e fast coaches were called Flying ach i n es , and th e fol lowing is an advertisemen t record ing wh at th ey “ coul d do A l l those desi rous t o pass from London to

o n Bath , or any oth er Place th ei r Road , let th em repai r to th e B ell Savage on Ludgate H il l i n Londo n , wh ere th ey may be received i n a Stage Coach wh ich performs th e whol e journey in Th ree Days (if God perm i t) an d — 1 3 2 1 9 6 EAST L ONDON

sets fort h at fi ve i n the Morn i ng . Passengers to pay

O n e fi w Pound ve sh ill ings each , wh o are allo ed to carry fourteen Poun ds Weigh t— for all above to pay th ree

- hal f pence per Pound .

We have changed all that , an d now we can leave

London and reach B ath i n less than t w o h ou rs . Th e d 1 0 8 s . 1 1 . j ourney of 7 m iles only costs , and we have no need to worry about attacks on th e h ighway by robbers or footpads .

Ad m i n i strati on an d Di vi si on s

An ci ent an d Mod ern . T he City

Corp oration . The London Cou nty

C o u n c fl .

is o f London th e youngest all our counties, and had 1 8 8 no central rep resentati ve govern ment till 9 , wh en th e fi rst London Cou nty Counci l was consti tuted . From

1 8 t o 1 8 8 8 M w a s 5 5 , th e etropol itan B oard of Works th e

a s w a s ch ief auth o ri ty , but it not a popular body its work w a s n o t al toget h er satisfactory . In t h is chapter we have t o consider t he const itut ion and work of th e London

County Council , wh ich is th e ch ief auth o ri ty for th e

A o f dm i nistrat i ve C ounty London , and the const itut ion

r o f and work of t he Co p o rat ion o f th e Ci ty London , wh ich h a s jurisd iction o ver a very smal l but most i m portant area .

1 9 8 EAST LONDON

From that year t o th e presen t time London h a s

i t s M o r M o f elected ayor , Lord ayo r, and many t hese leaders of th e Ci ty have been men of great character M an d authori ty . Th e way to th e ayoralty is by the A A lderman i c B en ch . Every l derman , in course of ti me ,

M h is o r becomes Lord ayor , u nless he resigns position , fails to secure election by th e C o urt of Aldermen .

T h e M an s ion Ho u s e

Th e Ci ty Corporati on of t h e presen t ti me is th e representative o f th e Commune of seven h undred years w “ M a o . n o g It is styl ed Th e ayor , Com monalty , and ” Citizens of th e C ity o f London , and consists of the M 2 A 2 06 L ord ayor , 5 ldermen , and Common Coun

il o fo r c l r s . Th e Common Counci l th e Ci ty corresponds

o o f Th e t t h e County Counci l for th e w hole Lond on . AN!) DIVI S I ONS 1 9 9

Comm on Council of t h e C i ty of London is a d emocrat ic

o f i t s assem bly , and th e whol e mem bers are elected yearly by th e ratepayers . H ere we may men tion t hat t he Li very Compani es are in close associat ion w it h t h e

f fo r is w h o mun ici pal l i e of th e Ci ty of London , i t th ey nominate th e Lord Mayor and elect th e t wo sh eri ffs on M idsummer Day . Th e Ci ty o f London Corporat ion extends i ts authority over South wark and h as most important powers as a

a s i i munici pal ity and a ju d c a l au thority . Th e Co rpo ration h a s o w n ffi . i ts pol ice force , w h ich is a most e cient body

It controls London , Blackfriars, South wark , and Tower

M A fo r . B ridges, and i t is t h e arket u t hori ty London

Th e Corporation owns and mai ntai ns parks , open spaces , and Eppi ng Forest ; and it is a great educational au thority , fo r it controls various schools , and th e Gu ildhall Li brary

A s i and Museum . a j ud icial auth o rity th e Ci ty has t s Quarte r Sessions ; an d th e Lord Mayor and A ldermen s it M at th e ansion House and Gu i ldhall Justice Rooms , and also at th e Central Crim inal Court i n th e O l d Bailey . Among t he ch ief o fli c e r s o f th e Corporation are th e

o r ffi Recorder , th e sen ior law o cer ; th e C ity Cham ber

o r lai n , the treasu rer and banker ; th e Town Clerk , who is th e head of all t he Corporation and Comm ittee work

w h o is th e Common Serj eant , th e j udge at th e Cen tral M ’ Crimi nal Court and th e ayor s Court ; th e Compt roller , w h o is th e Conveyanci ng O ffi cer ; t h e Ci ty Remem b r a n c e r w h o , arranges th e ceremonial fu nctions ; an d

w h o th e Ci ty Solic itor , conducts legal proceed ings and

prosecutions .

202 EAST LONDON

o f B esides th e two ch ief govern ing bod ies London , A 2 8 th e dm i n istrati ve County has B orough Councils , wh ich by th e A c t of 1 899 su perseded t h e vestries an d district boards . The council of each bo rough consists of

M n o t n 1 0 60 a ayor , and more tha al dermen and coun c il l o r s o f . Th e powers and duties these borough councils are n o t s o important as t hose of th e London Cou nty c Council , but t hey are concerned w ith the maintenan e of roads, and th ei r cleansing an d l igh ti ng ; w ith publ i c

- l i braries, baths, an d wash houses, and other useful work

with i n thei r area .

1 o f Th e County of London has 3 Boards Guardians ,

M o f fou r Boards of anagers School D istricts, and two

B oards of Managers of Sick Asylum D istricts . These various bodies are mai nly concerned with po o r law a dm i n i s t r a t io n o f , with th e management workhouses, an d wi th the work of caring for the poor , sick , and aged .

o o f u s t ic e h a s For th e admin istrati n j , London a Court

o f o 1 . Q uarter Sessi ns , an d 5 Courts of Petty Sessions 1 M There are also 4 Pol ice Courts with agistrates , and

1 n h a s 4 County Cou rts . Th e Ce tral Cri mi nal Court

o o M j urisd iction not nly ver all London and iddlesex , but

also over parts of Essex , Kent , Surrey , and Hert fo rd .

There are prisons at B rixton , Holloway , Pentonville , W andsworth , and Wormwood Scrubs, an d th e pol ice

force i n London numbers about men .

o f is o f The County London i n th e d ioceses London , A A . South wark , St l bans, an d Canterbu ry Th e rch bishop of Canterbury h a s h is offi cial residence at Lambet h

o f h a s Palace , and th e B ish op Lond o n Ful ham Palace P UBLI C BUI L DINGS 203

’ and London H ouse , St James s Square . Formerly t h e ecclesiastical parish coincided w i t h t h e ci vi l parish , but 6 61 0 n ow , wh i le th ere are 9 ci vil parish es , there are ecclesiast ical parishes i n Lo ndon . For parl iamentary purposes London is d iv ided i nto

8 fo r 5 constituencies , with one mem be r each , except in f o t w o . th e case th e City , wh ich retu rns mem bers

M w a s 1 02 Th e etropol itan Water B oard formed i n 9 ,

o f - and h as control th e water supply , but i ts j u risdiction extends far beyond th e County o f London . Th e Port of

A w a s 1 0 8 fo r London uth o ri ty establ ished i n 9 , th e pu r

o f pose ad m in istering , preserv ing, and im prov ing th e Port o f London . It supe rseded to a large exten t th e Thames

is n o w Conservancy Board , wh ich concerned mainly with

o f th e upper part the Thames .

2 - i n i 5 . Pu b l i c B u i l d i ngs Legal . Adm

s t r a i s t ve . H os p ital .

In some o f th e preced ing ch apters we have referred t o many o f the i m p o rtan t build ings o f th e eastern portion of

London . Th ere remai n , however , some pu bl ic build in gs of considerable i mportance , and we w ill devote th is A chapter to a sh ort accoun t of th em . mong th e buildings con nected w ith th e law we will select t he

Templ e , th e h o me of th e lawyers, and th e Central Crim inal Cou rt i n th e O l d Bailey ; among t hose deal ing with th e ad min istrative work o f t he C ity an d o f th e M Governmen t we may ch oose t h e Gu ildhall , th e ansion 204 EAST LONDON

n O ffi a s House , and t he Ge eral Post ce typical buildi ngs ; ’ ’ an d among th e great h ospitals, St Bartholomew s, Guy s, and the Lon don are the best representati ves . Th e Inner and th e M iddle Temple o ccupy th e whole of th e large area between Fleet Street an d the V ictoria

o n o n e W Embankmen t si de , an d h i tefriars to Essex

Street, Stran d , on th e other . The Temple , as i ts name

M i ddle Te m ple H all

w a s o f im pl ies , originally th e h ome the rel igious and

o f m ilitary O rder kn igh ts called th e Kn igh ts Templar . Th ey remo ved from Hol born t o th e present bu ild ings

1 1 8 s o i n 4, the Temple may be said to be th e most

o f o f A t fi h isto rically in teresti ng th e I nns Court . rst th e

Kn igh ts Tem plar were earnest and austere , bu t i n course o f fi t ime th ey d egenerated , and were nal ly abol ish ed by

206 EAST LONDON

o n e A a sword in hand and th e scales i n th e oth er . bove “ th e portal runs the inscri ption , D efend th e ch ildren of th e poor an d pun ish th e wrongdoer . Th e presen t

w a s bu ild ing erected by the City Corporation , and is under th eir control .

Everyone acknowledges that th e City is wel l governed , an d foreigners often express th ei r del igh t at th e clean and

T h e G u i ld h all

- ffi d o f well paved streets , and th e e cient a mi n istration th e

Corporation . Th e Guildhal l is the Council Hall o f th e

t o o f C ity and stands i n Ki ng Street the north Ch eapside .

1 1 1 o l d It dates from 4 , but th e crypt , th e walls , an d th e porch are al l that remain of th e ancient build ing , w w a s h ich much i njured by th e Great Fi re . Th e large

h a s e - l Hall i mmens stained g ass wind ows, and a fine open P UB LIC BU ILDINGS 207

h a s o fi t im ber roof. The west end th e giant wo den gures o f M Gog and agog, wh ich fo rmerly were used in th e ’ is Lo rd Mayor s Show . T he Hall used for mun icipal

o f M meetings , for the election the Lord ayor , and for

is publ ic banquets . I t full of h istorical memories , and

o f i n it there are statues , monuments, and portraits

Th e Gen e ral P o s t O ffi ce

a s great personages , such Chath am , P itt , Nelson , and W i ell ington . In connection w ith the Gui ldhall s th e City

Free Li brary , a very handsome modern Goth ic bu ild ing ,

f o wi t h a valuable collection o bo ks . Th e Museum is of

a s o f consi derabl e i nterest , it contains a large num ber

A r t antiqui ties fou nd i n London , and th e Corporation

h a o f Ga llery s a good collect ion modern B rit ish pictu res . 208 E AST LONDON

M o Th e ansi n House , not far from th e Gu ildhall , is the City residence o f the Lord Mayor during his year of ffi . w a s 1 o ce It buil t by Dance i n 7 3 9 , and th e ch i ef featu re is th e Egyptian Hall , so called because i t was con structed on th e model o f th e Egyptian Hall described by A t M V itru vius . th e ansion House the Lord Mayor

is dispenses a lavish hospital i ty , and it h ere that most of the great Ci ty banquets are hel d . H ere also are held meetings of a ph i lanth ropic or benevolent character , and often the i nauguration of a Mansion H o use Fun d by the Lord Mayor results i n th e publ ic subscription o f a large s u m of money . Perhaps th e m o st i mportant Government buildings in ffi t he City are th ose known as the General Post O ce . ’ B esides the new bu ild ings o n part of th e site o f Ch rist s

o ffi Hospital , th ere are th ree princi pal ranges of ces, known

/J ffi a s E a st West N0r t . O , , and Th e ol d General Post ce East was superseded in 1 9 1 0 by th e New B uild ing i n

King Ed ward Street , wh ic h gi ves improved accommoda tion for n o less than 3 000 sorters . The North build in g is

o f A ff is th e seat th e ccounts Sta , and th e West buil di ng ’ used by the Telegraph and Engi neer s Staff . Th e General ’ —- Post O ffi ce w a s named St Marti n s l e Grand from an o l d

i s collegiate chu rch and sanctuary t hat stood on t si te .

is o f it s a dm i n i London proud h ospitals, and th eir stration is im proving year by year . I n no oth er city is

ff u b s o much done t o alleviate pain and su ering . Th e s s c r ipt io n s o f a l l classes f o r th e main tenance o f the h ospi tals m amount to a very large s u each year . There are t h ree great funds wh ich raise m o n e y f or th is purpose ;

21 0 EAST LONDON

’ o w a s R a h er e St Bart holomew s H spital fou nded by ,

f 1 1 o 2 . a favourite an d courtier H en ry I , i n 3 It was

o b n o w a s ref u nded y H enry VIII , and is the ri chest well

o f as th e most ancient th e London hospi tals . B esides

- atten di ng to out patients i n th e year , i t maintains

h a s ff 6 0 00 . 7 beds, an d a sta of 3 nurses Th e mai n bu ilding

1 h a s was erected in 73 3 , but an extension recently been ’ o n o f added to it part of th e site Christ s Hospital . Th is ’ is a s hospital fami liarly known Bart s by th e studen ts, and is o n e of th e very best of our schools for medici ne l f . o and su rgery Harvey , th e d iscoverer of th e ci rcu ation

w a s o n e o f i t s A th e blood , physicians, and D r bernethy used to lectu re h ere . Guy ’s Hospi tal i n th e Borough of South wark was

1 2 1 w a s founded i n 7 by Thomas Guy , who a bookseller and made a large fortun e by printing and sell ing B ibles .

t o H is vast wealt h wen t build and endow th is hospital , wh ich is o n e of th e largest o f th e London Med ical Schools and maintains six hundred beds .

Th e London Hospital is i n the Wh itechapel Road , and

is o f w a s founded i n 1 740 . I t by far th e largest al l th e 1 London hospitals , for i t has 9 4 beds , and th e attendances o f i t s out - pat ients yearly amoun t to nearly I t s

s o i t endowment is not large , and depends mai nly on

h a n o subscript ions and d onat ions . Th e bu il di ng s arch i

u r a l is a t o t e c t pretensions, but i t o f incalculable v lue th e

o teem ing populat ion f th e East End . EDUCATION 21 1

2 6 — . E d u cati on Pri m ary , Secon da ry ,

an d Tech n i cal . Fou nd ation an d

= Col l egi ate Sch ool s . T h e U n i ve r i t s y of Lond on .

1 8 0 B efore t h e year 7 , th e elementary education of

o f w a s n o t o w a s t h e ch il d ren Lon don c m pulsory , and managed by t h e C hurch o f England and ot h er rel igious

fo r M r . . o denom i nations . W E F rster i ntroduced a b i ll th e compulsory attendance of all ch ild ren at school , an d

A c t w a s 1 8 0 when th is Educat ion passed i n 7 , a body known a s th e London School Board was formed . I t

o f consisted 5 5 mem bers , and for a period of 3 3 years w a s th e d i recting authority fo r much o f t he el emen tary

i r e im e . u t s education in London D ri ng g th e C hu rch ,

Roman Cathol ic , Wesleyan , and other den ominat ional

o w n schools were con trolled by thei r managers , and had

t o do o noth ing w ith th e Lond n Sch ool Board . Th e work o f th e London School Board came to an

1 0 M r end i n 9 3 , when Bal four passed a new Education A c t by wh ich th e London County Council became t h e

Education A uthori ty for th e County o f Lon don . The London County Cou nci l actually superseded t h e Londo n

o n M a 2 1 0 Sch ool B oard y , 9 4, and an Education Com m i t t e w a o f du o e s th en formed to deal wi t h all classes e c a t i n . A t th e presen t t ime t he Educatio n Comm i ttee consists o f 40 mem bers o f the London Coun ty Council toget h er

1 2 c o - w h o fo r wit h opted mem bers , are special ly ch osen

w o f th ei r interest i n t he ork educat ion .

l 4 21 2 EAST LONDON

Th e great merit o f th e last Education Ac t is due t o th e c o - ordination of al l branch es of education in th e hands

o of on e body . Th us the L ndon County Counci l have th e charge of all th e elementary schools , both those belonging to th e late London School Board an d th e

n . denom i natio al schools Th e latter schools, however ,

t o are still allowed gi ve thei r own rel igious i nstruction , and t heir managers have some control ov er t he teach ers

i n these sch ools .

Now , i n considering th e extensi ve duties of th e London Education Comm i ttee we w i ll begi n with elemen tary

. 2 0 education Th ere are about 9 schools for th is purpose , and they hav e accommodation for over scholars, t 1 wh ose ages vary from th ree o 5 . The ch ildren have a soun d elementary education , w h ich is well graded for

' r th ei r capacities . Th ere are also many special schools fo

a s i nstruct ion i n such su bj ects cookery , laundry work , housewi fery , and manual work , and also fo r th e separate

o f treatment ch i ldren wh o are deaf, bl i nd , an d mentally o r physically defecti ve . Th e Cou ncil have also 1 08 H igher Elementary

Schools and H igher Grade D epartments , wh ere th e cu rriculum is of a more ad vanced character , and th e

o f cou rse i nst ruction is arranged for fou r years, after an

Fo r o f entrance exami nation . t he whole the el ementary

o sch ools there are ab ut teachers em ployed , and altoget her th e London County Counci l expends u pwards o f th ree m ill ion pounds yearly o n educational work . The H igher Educati on of t h e Londo n County Counci l b e a n o f g by taking over th e dut ies th e Tech n ical B oard ,

2 1 4 EAST LONDON a certain number o f free places to th e nominees of th e

n Council . The Lon don County Cou cil spends large sums o f money i n th e award o f scholarsh i ps wh ich carry pupils

t o 1 6 from elemen tary secondary schools . It has now

o w n secondary schools of its , and i t makes annual gran ts

to other schools wh i ch recei ve i t s scholarsh ip hol ders .

C h arte r h o u s e

Besides th e sch ools under th e control of th e London County Cou ncil th ere are also some great Publ ic Sch ools

wh ich m ust be specially men t ioned . Fi rst th ere is St

’ o fo r w a s Paul s Sch o l , th e most ancient , i t founded i n ’

1 0 o f . 5 9 by Colet , Dean St Paul s For many years th is famous ci ty sch ool w a s unde r t he shadow o f t he great

1 8 8 w a s cath ed ral , but in 4 it removed to its present E DUC ATION 21 5

fi n e bu ild ings i n t he Hammersm it h Road . Westm inster i Sch ool s at th e back o f Westm inster A bbey ; it w a s founded by Hen ry V III o u t o f t h e spo ils o f t h e monas t e r ie s , and rich ly endowed by El izabeth . Two other fam ous pu bl ic sch ools fo rmerly stood i n

’ o f y . o r a s is t h e ve ry h eart t h e Ci t Ch rist s H ospital , i t ” - fami l iarly called th e B lue coat School , o ne o f th e

D u lwic h College

o f most ch erished i nsti tutio ns Londo n . I t founded

o f i t s i n the reign Edward V I , an d sch olars st ill wear th e picturesque d ress o f that period . O wing to the want o r

w a s t o space , the sch ool removed a mo re su i tabl e si te near

u Horsham , i n S ssex , and t h e old buildings have gi ven

o f ffi place t o the extension t h e General Post O ce . Th e

w a s 1 8 2 C harterhouse School removed from Lond on i n 7 ,

w a s fi n e b u and establ ished i n a ild ing at Godalm ing , 2 1 6 EAST LONDON

1 1 i n Surrey . Th e Charterhouse was founded i n 1 6 by

Th omas Sutton , and though the boys h ave gone , th e breth ren of the foundation , some eigh ty i n number , l ive o n i n the same place , i n collegiate styl e . I n add ition to t h ese great and famous schools of the past , th ere are oth ers of a later date wh i ch give a sim ilar education .

A o m ng these may be men t ioned D ulwich Col lege , the

C i ty o f London S c h ool

’ Ci ty of London School , Uni versity School , and K ing s

College School .

We now come to the last section of th is chapter ,

h s f wh ich a t o deal w ith th e U n iversi ty o Lon do n .

1 8 6 w a s Founded i n 3 , th e U n i versi ty for many years an

do exam in ing body , and had noth ing to with th e work o f teach ing . I t s exam inat ions proved wh ether studen ts

2 1 8 EAST LONDON

with wh ich th ey were connected , or th e special work

t o wh ich l inks them th e great City . Th e Rol l of Honour of London n ecessarily incl udes men w h o are of worl d

is wide renown , an d whose memory honoured by oth er towns and counties i n ou r country , but t here are many of them w h o are i ndissolubly l inked with the associations

u s e o f of London . To t h e words Lord Rosebery i t may “ be sai d that , in taking a walk i n London , it is an i mmense rel ief t o th e th ough ts to come On some tablet u t o wh ich s ggests a n ew train of though t , wh ich may call you r m ind th e career of some distingu ished person , and wh ich takes o ff th e i ntolerable pressure of th e monotony ” of endless streets . We need not spend much time on the royal personages who are associated more particularly with Lon don . Th e

h a s fact that i t been the capi tal for nearly a th ousand years , an d that the Court has resi ded there fo r th e greater part o f that period , tells us at on ce that all our monarchs have

t o some claim , eith er by bi rth or residence , be considered

Londoners . There are a few , however , that we recall A at once for some special reasons . l fred has been called th e founder of Londo n : Wil liam I buil t th e Tower for it s protection and Charles I was beh eaded at Wh i tehall . Westm inste r A bbey wi t h all i t s h istoric associations has

- been th e crown i ng place of our sovereigns , and here , too , many of them are bu ried . Nei t her will it be necessary to recount th e long l ist of di vi nes w h o have spent much o f t hei r time i n London . Wh en we remember that St Paul ’s Cath ed ral and West m inst er A bbey have gi ven u s a succession of n oted bishops ROLL OF H ONOU R 21 9

ffi and deans , and t hat Lambeth Palace , th e o cial residence

A h a s o f of th e rch bish op of Canterbu ry , been t he home

o n e rs A nearly h undred successo o f St ugusti ne , we at once real ise what a part L o ndon has played i n th e r e l i io u s o f g l ife our nation . H ere , however , we may again select a few outstand in g names . B ecket , in many ways

o u r the most famous of arch bish ops , was born i n London , ’ M s o n o f beh ind th e ercers Chapel i n th e Poul try , th e ’ f t w a s . o S a wealthy merchant Colet , D ean Paul s , th e founder of o n e of th e most noted City Schools . Joh n

h is Wesley was educated at th e Charterh ouse , and h eld

fi rst Method ist Conference i n London i n 1 7 44. Sydn ey ’ S o f m ith , the w itty Canon St Paul s , had p reviously

o been preacher at th e Foundl i ng H spital , and at B erkeley

Chapel . Th e statesmen who have iden ti fi ed th ei r fortunes wi th London are very n umerous . Thomas Cromwel l was born at Pu tney , and , after h elp i ng Hen ry V II I i n

w a s o n the d issolution of th e monasteries , beh eaded

h is Tower H il l . Edmund B urke recei ved legal trai n ing

M h is at th e idd le Temple , and speech i n Westm i nster Hall on th e i mpeachm en t of Warren Hastings w a s on e o f h i s ff greatest e orts . He was fond of London , an d among h is l iterary friends were D r Joh nson an d Goldsm i th .

o f o u r Wil l iam Pi tt , one foremost p rim e m i nisters , has a

t o h is o statue memory i n t he G uil dhall . Si r R bert Peel

fo r has special claims on ou r n otice , not o nly di d h e repeal M th e Corn Laws, but h e formed th e etropol itan Pol ice “ a s Force , or Peelers , th ey were once termed , whose

o l d members took the place of the watch men . He was 220 EAST LONDON

n thrown from h is horse ear Hyde Park Corner , and d ied W from th e effects o f th e fal l at h is house i n h itehall . Peel ’s services to London are brough t to ou r m in d by h is statue at th e west end of Ch eapside .

C h arle s G eorge Gordon

A mong th e men o f action whose fortunes were

t wo connected with London , we will name the foremost

o u r o f in h isto ry . Nelson , th e greatest our admi rals ,

o f fi and Well ington , th e h ero a hund red ghts , are assuredly the p rid e and possession of th e Em pire , and

’ M A s f Stow s on u m ent , S t n drew U nder h a t ROLL OF H ONOU R 223

’ o u t a s and St Paul s School . H e stands the great h istorian

h is B r i t a n n i a of h is country i n th e re ign of El izabeth , and does for th e whole country wh at Stow d i d for London . S Joh n trype , who l i ved i n the later Stuart period , received

C h a u cer

’ h is is education at St Paul s School . H e con nected wi th ’ Su r v e o L o n do n a n d Hackney , and continued Stow s y f West mi n s t er to th e begi nn ing o r th e eighteent h century

h a s f London always been amous fo r i ts poets , and duri ng the El izabethan peri od i t w a s a n est of si ngi ng 224 EAST LONDON

. O n e o f bi rds our earl iest poets, Joh n Gower — Moral Gower a s h e w a s cal led l ies buried in South ffi wark Cath edral , wh ere t here is an e gy to h is memory .

t o o . Chaucer , , has made South wark famous for all time

w a s A He born i n Lon don , resi ded i n l dgate , an d became

o f Comptroller th e Petty Customs . It was at th e Tabard

Inn , South wark , that h is company of pilgrims assembled

t o for th eir journey Can terbury . Chaucer subsequently

A . l i ved i n Westmi nster , and was buried i n th e bbey

o f Fa er i e i i een e Edmun d Spenser , author th e Q , was born

i n London , p robably near th e Tower . H e ended h is l i fe i n distressed ci rcumstances, and d ied i n King Street ,

Westminster . Shakespeare , th e greatest of all ou r

t o names, came London w h en h e reached manhood , and h is fi r s t work th ere was probably some menial offi ce i n A l l connection with the Cu rtai n Th eatre at Shoredi tch .

o h is w rk i n Lon don was ei ther as actor or playwrigh t , and th e Globe an d th e Blackfriars Th eatres on t he

Surrey side were the scen es o f h is triumphs . H is con

tem porari es i n London were B eaumont and Fletch er , M assinger and Ben Jonson , and the latter h e often met

M . at the ermai d Tavern i n B read Street H is friend ,

B en Jonson , real ised h is greatness, for h e says that Shake “ ” speare wrote not fo r an age but for all ti me . Th ere is t o A a fine monument Shakespeare i n th e bbey , and M o n e . a later i n Leicester Square Jo h n ilton , t he greatest o f s o n th e Stuart poets, th e of a Lond on scrivener , was

w a s born in B read Street , Ch eapside . He educated at ’ ’ G il e s s S t Paul s School , and buried i n St , Cri ppl egate ,

w here there is a monumen t t o h i m in the churchyard .

226 EAST L ONDON

The men o f letters who have made London their

home are even more numerous than th e poets . Pepys, ’ o Di a r wri ter of th e fam us y, was educated at St Paul s

School , and li ved in B ucki ngham Street , Strand . He was

S a m u el P epy s

’ ’ O l a ve s buried i n St , Hart Street , at n ine o clock at n igh t and th ere are monuments i n t hat chu rch t o h im and t o h is Fo r wife . a correct and real ist ic knowledge o f London o f th e time o f Charles II w e must tu rn t o t h e pages

t o o w h o of t h is d iarist . Evelyn , , wrote a d iary of the ROLL OF H ONOU R 227

is same period , l ived at Deptford , and h is work oft en ’ o r useful to check Pepys statemen ts . N must we fo rget

w h o o u r n a / a t / M P l a u e Yea r Dan iel Defoe , wrote th e y f g ’ G il e s s 1 66 1 H e was born i n St , Cripplegate , in , and

Da n i e l Defoe

is B u n h il l O f buried i n Fields Cemetery . all t he men

o f is is of l etters wh om London justly proud , none “ is greate r than D r Joh nson . H e styled t h e l eader ” u of l i terat re i n t h e eigh teenth cen t ury , and th e best ’ h is w a part of l ife s work s accom pl ished i n London . — 1 5 2 228 E AST LONDON The celebrated Club founded by S ir Joshua Reynolds ’ S at the Turk s H ead , Gerard t reet , Soho, included

n among i ts members Joh nson , B urke , Goldsm ith , G ibbo ,

w a s w an d Boswell , but Joh nson th e ackno ledged l eader .

Dr J o h n s on

London w a s th e greatest place i n th e world to Joh nson . ” “ Fleet Street , h e once said , has a very animated appearance but I th ink th e full tide o f human ex istence ” is at Chari ng C ross . Th e house i n Gough Square ,

h is Di et i a n a r h is where h e com piled y, still stands ; seat i n

23 0 EAST LONDON

St Clement Danes Church i n the Strand h a s a brass “ o n e plate on it ; an d th e Ch esh i re Cheese , of h is

’ s 1 Dr J o h n son Ho u se , 7 , Go u g h S q u are

is favouri te haun ts i n Fleet Street , yearly visi ted by

o f h is 8 t h ousands adm irers . Joh nson d ied at , Bolt ROLL OF H ONO UR 23 1

w a s Court , Fleet Street , and buri ed i n Westm inste r A bbey . Happi ly , we can fol low h i m i n h is London ’ fo r u s l ife , Boswell s biography gi ves th e m inutest detai ls

h is . of th e man and friends Charles Lam b , th e gentl e

C h arle s L a m b

M w a s . essayist , a true Lon doner B orn i n the iddle ’ w a s w a s Temple , h e educated at Ch rist s Hospital , and a

r - i clerk i n th e East Ind ia House fo th i rty s x years . Most of h is essays were wri tten i n London before h e ret i red t o

E n fie l d. 23 2 EAST LONDON

When we come to th e V ictorian era, we have a goodly com pany of men of letters who del ighted in

. w a s Lon don Th ackeray , th e great novelist , educated

W i l li a m Hogart h

Va n i t Fa i r E smo n d at th e Charterhouse , and y , , and

P en r/en n i s S were written at Young treet , Kensi ngton , o r Kensington Palace Road wh ere h e d ied . D ickens,

23 4 EAST LONDON

w a s too, essen tially a Londoner . H e knew th e metro

a s pol is of h is ti me few others knew i t , and we find

D a v id C a er el d S f et c /J es b B a z i n such novels as pp fi , y ,

i a e an d th e P i e/t w c e P p r s ev idences of th is in timate

G eorge Cr u iks h ank

8 kn owledge . H e l ived at 4 , Dough ty Street , and in th e

M . M s o n aryl ebo ne Road James i ll , and h is Jo h n Stuart M ill l ived in London , the latter being bo rn i n Rodney

St reet , Pen to nv ille . Lond on h a s been t h e h ome o f some o f o u r greatest ROLL OF H ONOU R 23 5

painters . Hogarth , born in Barthol omew Close , Sm ith

fi e l d t o , and apprenticed an engraver i n Cran bourne

o St reet , knew all th e phases of L ndon l i fe , and reflected

o th em in h is p ictu res . Th omas Rowlands n , th e great

o f w a s O l d w master caricature , born i n th e Je ry , an d

s o Si r David Wi lki e , wh ose pai ntings of h umble l ife are

o a o f fam il iar , l ived i n ab ut _ dozen houses in various parts ’ London . George Cru ikshank s humorous penci l illus ’ t r a t e d D ickens s books and was ever ready to assist i n th e war against intem perance . ’ u o f n From th is brief s rvey Londo s Roll of Honou r ,

h a s i t will be seen that th e City always had a charm , almost a fasci nation , over th e l i ves of many of ou r great

A n men . attach men t for London is th e ex perience of

t o most peopl e who come i t early enough , and D r Joh nson

: o u expressed th is feel ing wh en h e sai d Why , si r , y fin d

t o no man at all i ntellectual wh o is w ill i ng leave London .

No s i r is is o f , , wh en a man ti red o f London h e tired l i fe ,

ffo for t here is i n London all that l i fe can a rd . 2 8 . TH E CITY O F LO ND ON A ND TH E B O R O U G H S I N TH E N O RTH - EA ST AND S O UTH EA ST O F T H E CO UNTY O F O O L ND N .

Th e C it y o f L o n do n is one of t h e sm alle s t divi s ion s of t h e

h a s . Co u nty of London , and t h e s m allest pop u lation Neit h er i t s s i t s i ze nor nig h t pop u lation , h owever , gives an i ndication of i t s . i s great i m portance T h e City t h e very h eart of London , and

o f i s t h e centre t h e co m m ercial l ife of t h e E m pi re . It also a Co u nty and h a s enjoyed ex c eptional priv i leges fro m t h e earlies t ti m es . Alt h o u g h it h as a nig h t pop u lation of only t h e resident daily pop u lation is over w h ile it is calc u lated t h at u pward s of a m il lion people enter it and leave it i n 2 4 h o u r s .

1 0 1 1 2 s s Before 9 7 it was divided i nto pari h e , b u t i n t h at year

s . h a s 2 t h ey were consol idated i nto one pari h T h e City 5 Wards ,

s s and is governed by t h e City Corporation , w h ic h consi t of t h e

2 2 0 6 s . Lord M ayor , 5 Alder m en , and Co m m on Co u ncillor A m ong t h e m o s t i m portant p u blic b u ilding s i n t h e City are t h e

- followi ng . T h e G u ild h al l is t h e Co u ncil h all of t h e City , and t h e Mansion Ho u se i s t h e residence of t h e Lord Mayor . T h e Central Cri m inal Co u rt is a fi ne m odern b u ilding w h ic h h a s l d taken t h e place of t h e O Bai ley . T h e Bank of England is t h e centre of t h e banking b u si ness of t h e co u ntry . T h e Royal E xc h ange and t h e Stock Exc h ange are devoted to t h e co m m r i O fi e c a l and m onetary life of London . T h e General Post f ce

23 8 EAST LONDON

h a . O n 2 6 1 66 s s m an u fact u res J u ne , 3 , Pepy t h e followi ng —“ entry i n h is Di a r y z By coac h to Bednal l Green to Sir W.

’ fi n e Rider s to dinner . A m erry walk wit h t h e ladies alone after di nner i n t h e garden ; t h e greatest q u antity of strawberries I ever saw , and good . T h is very h o u se was b u ilt by t h e Blind Beggar

s s . of Bednall Green , so m u c h talked of and u ng i n ballad

C a m b e r w e l l is t h e fo u rt h a m ong t h e London boro u g h s i n

fi i s area , and ft h i n pop u lation . T h e extent of t h e boro u g h t h e

2 0 . sa m e as t h at of t h e civil paris h , and it is divided i nto wards

s s T h e pop u lation is u nevenly di trib u ted , and is m o t dense i n t h e

Nort h division . T h ere are 5 8 persons to t h e acre i n Ca m berwell . T h e boro u g h i s fort u nate i n h avi ng two large open spaces wit h i n

. s 1 its area , viz Peck h a m Rye and D u lwic h Park , beside 4 s m aller

s 1 60 one s . T h e boro u g h co u ncil consist of 0 alder m en and

s s . co u nci llors , eac h of t h e ward bei ng represented by 3 co u ncillor ” ’ D u lwic h i s fa m o u s for i t s Colleg e cal led God s Gift Col lege ” w a i n D u lwic h . T h is s b u ilt and endowed i n 1 6 1 9 by Edward

’

s K B . Alleyn , a celebrated actor and Ma ter of t h e i ng s ears He

a s s 1 2 s s fo u nded it a c h apel , a sc h ool h o u e , and al m h o u se , and so val u able h as t h e property beco m e w h ic h h e left for its endow

w a s 1 8 0 m ent , t h at a new and conspic u o u s b u i lding erected i n 7 O l d at a cost of T h e Colleg e is a q u ai nt b u ildi ng , and h as attac h ed to it a gallery wit h a fi n e collection of pict u res .

D e t o r d i t s p f is one of t h e s m aller London boro u g h s , and pop u lation s h ows a density of 7 0 to t h e acre . T h e boro u g h h as only a s m al l area of open spaces , of w h ic h t h e c h ief are Deptford

Park and Telegrap h Hill . Deptford h a s 6 alder m en and 3 6

6 . co u nci llors on t h e boro u g h co u ncil , and is divided i nto wards

a T h ere are engineering works h ere , and so m e m n u fact u res of

s . eart h enware , soap , and c h e m ical T h e old Naval Dockyard was

fi 1 8 6 — lled u p i n 9 , and converted i nto a foreign cattle m arket , B OROUGIIS 23 9

w h ic h belongs to t h e City Corporation . T h e Royal Vict u alli ng

s t i l l yard is m ai ntai ned , and h ere cattle are sla u g h tered , and bisc u its and ot h er provisions are stored for t h e Royal Navy .

wa s Sayes Co u rt belonged to Evelyn , and t h e residence of Peter d t h e Great w h i le h e was st u dyi ng s h i pb u ilding at Deptfor .

’ Reso l u t i o n Di s c o v er Captai n Cook s s h ips , t h e and t h e y , sailed

( u fro m Deptford , and it was h ere t h at Q een El izabet h knig h ted

Sir Francis Drake .

F i n s b u r i s s y t h e m allest boro u g h i n London save Hol born .

s s o f It con i ts t h e civi l paris h es of C h arter h o u se , Clerkenwel l ,

Y . Glass h o u se ard , St L u ke , and St Sep u lc h re In general c h aracter t h e vario u s parts of t h e boro u g h are so m ew h at si m ilar . T h ey

o f are all fu lly b u ilt u pon and densel y pop u lated , t h e n u m ber

s 1 0 60 per ons per acre bei ng abo u t 5 , as co m pared wit h abo u t for all London . T h e pop u lation is now decl i ning , owing to t h e decrease i n t h e area avai lable for residence , w h ic h is beco m i ng m ore and m ore li m ited by t h e i ncrease of b u si ness pre m ises . A s

s s s s fi c regard open pace , Fi n b u ry is very de ient , t h ere bei n g only

1 abo u t 6 acres of breat h i ng s pace for t h e large pop u lation . T h e

1 1 boro u g h is divided i nto wards , and t h e boro u g h co u nci l con sists of 9 alder m en and 5 4 co u ncillors .

G r e e n w i h c is t h e si xt h London boro u g h i n area , and its

2 pop u lation s h ows a density of 5 persons to t h e acre . It contai ns

a s wit h in its bo u ndaries several i m portant open spaces , s u c h G reen B m wic h Park , and parts of lack h eat h and Woolwic h Co m on , w h ic h cover an area of 3 9 0 a cres . T h e boro u g h consi s ts of t h e paris h es K of C h arlton and idbrooke , St N ic h olas , Deptford , and G reenwic h , and it is divided i nto 8 wards . T h e boro u g h co u nci l h as 5 alder m en and 3 0 co u ncillors . G reenwic h possesses several i m portant

, g p g g w m an u factories i ncl u di n teleg ra h works , en i neerin orks , and c h e m ical work s . T h e Royal O bserv a tory i n Greenwic h Park h as a world - wide celebrity : geograp h ers calc u late longit u de m i me fro t s ridian , and c h rono m eters are sent h ere to be tested . 240 EAST LONDON

s i s s Greenwic h Ho pital , now t h e Royal Naval College , a plendid

fi s c w a s edi ce , b u ilt u pon t h e ite of a royal pala e , w h ic h t h e birt h

o f ( ee n g . place Henry VII I , b Mary , and O een Elizabet h T h e

n a l Pai nted Hall contains so m e good v a pi c t u res and stat u e s . Black h eat h l ies to t h e s o u t h of Greenwic h Park and i s cro s s ed

e u by t h e ancient Watl ing Street leading to Dover . Here were ca m ped t h e rebels u nder Wat Tyler (1 3 8 1 )and Jack Cade and h ere t h e citizens of London welco m ed Henry V on h is ret u rn fro m Agi nco u rt .

H a c kn e y i s t h e s event h a m ong t h e London boro u g h s i n

s s point of ize and sixt h of pop u lation . T h e boro u g h coi ncide wit h

i i s s s 8 . t h e civ il pari h , and divided i nto wards T h ere an area of

6 1 8 s s acre of open paces , w h ic h incl u de Hackney Mars h , Hackney

s i s . Co m m on , Hackney Down , and London F eld T h e boro u g h co u nci l consist s of 1 0 alder m en and 60 co u n c il lor s . Hackney

s Z o u c h e was for m erly t h e re idence of t h e Vere , Ric h , , Brooke , and s i s m s s Rowe fa m ilie , and often all u ded to by t h e old dra ati t . It i s s s no longer a fas h ionable di trict , b u t t h ere are o m e good old

s s fi n e s . fas h ioned h ou e , wit h tree and gardens How Hackney

’ h as c h anged m ay be gat h ered fro m one entry i n Pepys Di a ry of —“ fi 1 2 1 6 8 . fo l l o w s z May , 7 It is as Walked over t h e elds to Ki ngsland and back agai n ; a walk I t h ink I h ave not taken t h es e

’ s twenty years ; b u t p u t m e i n m i nd of m y boy s ti m e , w h en I K s boarded at ingsland , and u sed to s h oot wit h m y bow and arrow fi ” i n t h e s e elds .

I s l i n g t o n h as t h e largest pop u lation of al l t h e London boro u g h s , and is eig h t h i n poi nt of si ze . T h e boro u g h coi ncides

1 1 . wit h t h e civi l paris h , and is divided i nto wards Islington i s 1 0 densel y pop u lated , h avi ng no fewer t h an 5 persons to

i s o ff s t h e acre . It not wel l as regard open spaces , w h ic h ,

fi 0 . i ncl u di ng Hig h b u ry elds , h ave an area of only 4 acres T h e boro u g h co u nci l con s ists of 1 0 alder m en a nd 6C) Co u n cillors .

242 EAST LONDON

s s i T h e Agric u lt u ral Hall , t h e econd large t b u ilding of t h e k nd

i s i s i n London , i n Upper Street , and h ere every Dece m ber h eld

i n n s c t h e Cattle S h ow . T h e Angel Hotel , an fa m o u sin e t h e “ ’ s H o a r t h s eventeent h cent u ry , was depicted i n g pict u re T h e ” Stage Coac h , b u t h as si nce been m u c h altered and m odernised .

s i t s i - I lington was for m erly fa m o u s for d u ck ng ponds , its c h eese

s s s s cake , and c u tard , and was often m entioned i n work of t h e

s sixteent h and later cent u ries . Dr Jo h n on , referring to t h e dairy “ s s s : s far m at I lington , say A m an w h o give t h e nat u ral h istory ” of t h e c o w i s not to tel l h ow m any cows are m ilked at I s l ington ; W O and i llia m Colli ns t h e poet , l iver Golds m it h , and C h arles

s La m b , a m ong m any ot h er e m inent na m e , were connected wit h

Isli ngton .

L e w i s h a m s , on t h e Raven bo u rne , is t h e t h ird London

s i s a s boro u g h i n point of ize , and seventeen ti m es as large

s . s s Holborn , w h ic h is t h e m allest boro u g h At pre ent t h i large

i s n 2 2 area only t h i ly pop u lated , t h ere being abo u t persons to t h e

h a 2 a . s 66 s s cre T h e boro u g h acres of open pace , w h ic h co m

prise a portion of Black h eat h and t h e Hilly Field s . T h e boro u g h

1 0 is divided i nto wards , and t h e co u ncil h as 7 alder m en and

2 c . B 4 co u n illors I ncl u ded i n t h e boro u g h are Lee , lack h eat h ,

B . H o r n im a n rockley , Catford , Forest Hill , and Syden h a m T h e M u se u m is at Forest Hill , and t h e Crystal Palace is near

Syden h a m . T h e paris h c h u rc h of Lewis h a m is i nteresting as ’ C o l fe s an exa m ple of t h e Classical style , and Gra m m ar Sc h ool

was fo u nded and endowed i n 1 65 6.

P l a r B o p consists of t h e paris h es of Bow , ro m ley , and Poplar ,

o u l a and is t h e elevent h London boro u g h i n point of size . Its p p i s 0 s . tion large , t h ere being abo u t 7 person to t h e acre T h e

s 2 boro u g h h as several m all open spaces , and 7 % acres of Victoria

s s 2 Park . T h e boro u g h co u nci l consi t of 7 alder m en and 4

1 s co u ncillors , w h o represent t h e 4 ward into w h ic h t h e boro u g h B is divided . Poplar is on t h e River T h a m es between lackwal l B OROU GIIS 243

s Reac h and Li m e h o u se Reac h , and contai ns t h e East and We t

I ndia Docks and M illwall Docks .

S h o r e di h t c , one of t h e s m allest of t h e London boro u g h s , h a s a dense pop u lation of 1 7 0 per s ons to t h e acre . T h e

s fl pop u lation is decreasi ng , owi ng to several ca u se , b u t c h ie y to t h e fact t h at dwell ing - h o u ses are being p u lled down to m ake way

s . s for factorie , etc T h e few open spaces for t h i congested neig h

b o u r h o o d 6 . 8 s only a m o u nt to % acres T h ere are boro u g h ward ,

2 and t h e co u ncil con s ists of 7 alder m en and 4 co u ncillors . I t s m S h oreditc h i s a typical East End di s trict . na e is said to be derived fro m a pop u lar ballad abo u t Jane S h ore repenti ng of h er ” sin s i n a ditc h ! I n t h e s ixteent h cent u ry its t h eatres T h e C u rtai n ” and “ T h e T h eatre ” were for so m e ti m e t h e only two

s s i n London . It is said t h at S h akespeare tood at t h e door of t h e S h oreditc h play h o u ses and h eld t h e h or s es of t h e s pectators

H i s Ro m eo a n d u 1 w d u ri ng t h e perfor m an c e . 7 i et a s perfor m ed “ i n 1 5 9 7 at T h e C u rtai n .

S o u t h w a r k s s s rank as one of t h e m aller boro u g h , b u t it h as

s s 1 one of t h e largest pop u lation s . It h as no le t h an 7 0 persons

s to t h e acre , and is t h u t h e m ost densely pop u lated area i n

s s London . It con ists of t h e paris h es of C h ri tc h u rc h , So u t h wark ,

Newi ngton , St George t h e Martyr , So u t h wark , and St Savio u r ,

1 1 O So u t h wark . T h ere are only acres of pen spaces i n t h e K boro u g h , and en nington Park is t h e nearest of t h e large open

s . 1 0 s paces T h e boro u g h h as ward , and t h e co u nci l consists of

1 0 alder m en and 60 co u ncillors . T h e h istorical i nterest of

So u t h wark is considerable . Its earl y i m portance arose fro m t h e fact t h at it was on t h e l ine of Watling Street , and near t h e great

- t h e I crossing place on so u t h ern bank of t h e T h a m es . t s priory was closed at t h e Refor m ation , b u t t h e priory c h u rc h now for m s

h e Cat h edral C h u rc h of t h e See . T h e Tabard I n n was connected

’ a n t er b u r Ta l es wit h C h a u cer s C y , and so m e of t h e t h eatres were a s sociated wit h S h akespeare and ot h er Eli zabet h an actors and

1 6—2 ’ S e Gower s To m b , o u t h wark Cat h dral

246 EAST LONDON

Wo o l w i c h s s is t h e second large t of t h e London boro u g h ,

s s 1 s s and t h e lea t den el y pop u lated , for t h ere are only 4 per on to s s s t h e acre . It co m pri e t h ree pari h es , Woolwic h , Pl u m stead ,

s c s and Elt h a m , and h as no le s t h an 3 5 5 acres of open spa e , w h ic h s B o s t a l l W s incl u de Pl u m tead Co m m on , Heat h and ood , Elt h a m

. 1 1 s Co m m on and Green , and Woolwic h Co m m on T h ere are ward 6 6 i n t h e boro u g h , and t h e co u nci l consists of alder m en and 3

i s co u ncillor s . T h ere a free ferry fro m Woolwic h pier to Nort h

i s s Woolwic h , w h ic h a detac h ed portion on t h e Essex ide of t h e i s river . T h e c h ief feat u re of Woolwic h t h e Arsenal , one of t h e m o s t exten s ive and com plete i n t h e world . A m ong ot h er b u ilding s of i nteres t are t h e M ilitary Acade m y and t h e Herbert

Hospital . AR EA AND P OP ULATI ON 247

A Table giv ing th e A rea and Population o f the Ci ty o f - London , and t he Boroughs in the North East and

- o f South East of th e County London .

TH E C r r v o r O DO A N I) B o a o u c u s A R E A m A C RF S p O l ’U L A T l O N m 1 1 1 L N N , 9 CITY O F LO ND O N Ber m ondsey Bet h nal Green Ca m berwel l Deptford Fi nsb u ry Greenwic h Hackney I s l ington Lewis h a m Poplar S h oreditc h So u t h wark Stepney Stoke Newi ngton Woolwic h

No t e . T h e Ad m i nistrative Co u nty of London i ncl u ding t h e City of London h ad a total area of acres and a pop u lation of at t h e cens u s of 1 9 1 1 . 248 EAST LONDON

A t h e i s i o f L F i 1 . g . rea of Ad m i n trat ve Co u nty on don acre s ) co m pared w i t h t h e area o f E ngl an d an d W al e s

h P A i s o f 2 . T e F i g . op u lation of t h e d m i n trative Co u nty Lon don co m p ar e d wit h t h at of E nglan d a n d W ales i n 1 9 1 1

I NDE !

u u 2 2 B h Gr 8 2 Agric lt ral Hall 4 et nal een 7 7 , 3 , 3 7 Alder m en 1 9 8 B eu lah Spa 49 r a 1 6 B i 0 8 Alde sg te 3 llingsgate 3 4, 9 , 9 A l dw c h 60 B 1 1 y is h ops , t h e seven 9 1 8 6 0 1 1 B 1 1 8 Alfred , King , 3 7 , 7 , 9 , 5 , is h opsgate Street 7 7 , 5 1 6 2 1 8 W 1 3 , ard of 7 7 A l l e c t u s 1 1 4 B lackfr i a rs B ridge 3 3 2 8 B a 1 2 2 6 2 0 2 2 Alleyn , Edward 3 lack h e t h 9 , 4 , , 4 , 4 - 1 1 1 0 B a 8 8 All Hallows 3 4 , 3 5 , 4 lackw ll 3 7 , 2 2 1 6 1 Apsley Hou se Reach 3 , 4 u a 1 1 1 1 u Aug st 5 , 3 , 4 T nnel 44 1 6 B t h e 1 0 Augu stine , St 5 loody Tower , 7 u P 1 60 B - o 1 6 2 1 Au l s lau ti u s l ue c at Sch ool , t h e 5 , 5 1 1 0 1 6 B a 1 1 Au stin Friars 3 7 , 4 , 5 o dicea 3 B du -o u t 1 2 oats , g 7 B Ol d 1 2 0 B M ailey , 99 , 5 orough arket , t h e 99 B 1 0 B o s t a l l a W 2 2 ank of England 3 He t h and oods 3 , 4 , B a nkside 3 4 2 6 B u t h e 1 2 B o w 8 2 2 anq eting Hall , 9 5 , 4 B W 1 u 1 arry , olfe 4 C h rc h 44 B atte r sea P ark 2 2 B ridewell 46 ’ B a n a r d s 1 6 1 B 2 2 y Castle 7 , 7 7 rockley 4 “l 1 B w P r 2 2 ard of 7 7 rock ell a k 3 , 7 , 7 3 B ecket 2 1 9 Bro m ley 2 42 B 0 1 1 B 1 2 ede 9 , 5 ronze Age , t h e 7 B 2 1 B 2 2 edford College 3 rowning , Robert 5 Bell Savage 1 95 B ru nel 43 B enedictines 1 5 4 B u c kl e r s b u r y Pave m ent 1 3 1 B 8 6 2 B u n h il l 2 2 er m ondsey , 3 7 Fields Ce m etery 7 A 1 6 1 B u r 2 1 bbey 5 , 5 9 ke , Ed m u nd 9 Spa 48 B urn h a m B eec h es 2 2 INDE! 25 1

1 1 1 Cade , Jack 9 Crosby , Sir Joh n 79 Caer- L u d 4 Hall 1 7 9 2 2 8 1 8 1 Ca m berwell 7 , 3 Sq u are W 2 2 1 1 1 Ca m den , illia m Crown Jewels 7 1 2 Sq u are 7 Cru iksh ank , George 3 5 Capel Cou rt 1 00 Cru tch ed F r iars 8 2 C a r a u s i u s 1 1 P t h e 2 2 4 Crystal alace , 4 Car m elites 1 5 6 C u bitt 4 1 “ 1 u t h e 2 Cart h usians 5 4 C rtain T h eatre , 43 2 2 Catford 4 Cu sto m Hou se , t h e 3 4 , 9 3 , 99 r 1 2 0 Central C i m inal Cou rt 9 5 , 5 Q u ay 3 4 m t h e 1 C h a berlain , City 99 1 2 0 2 1 8 2 0 8 C h arles I , Dance 1 2 0 1 t h e 1 8 6 1 1 I I , 7 5 Danes , , 3 7 , 7 , 7 2 Ch arlton 3 9 Daniel , T ho m as 5 7 t h e 1 2 1 2 1 8 C h arterh ou se , 5 4, 5 , 3 9 Decorated Style 3 f 1 2 2 2 2 C h aucer , Geo frey 9 , 4 Defoe , Daniel 7 2 0 8 6 8 2 8 C h elsea , 5 Deptford 3 , 9 , 3 “ t h e 2 0 P r 2 8 C h es h ire C h eese , 3 a k 3 ’ 1 6 2 1 0 8 0 2 Ch rist s Hospital 5 , 5 Dickens , Ch arles 7 , , 3 4 1 2 6 1 1 0 City , t h e 5 , 3 Docks , t h e 2 1 6 1 6 of London Sch ool Do m inicans , t h e 5 t h e 1 8 1 W 8 Co m panies , 9 3 , Dou lton are 5 G D o w a t e 0 1 66 ilds , t h e 9 4 g 3 4, 9 , Clap h a m Co m m on 2 3 Wh arf 47 ’ Clau di u s 3 8 Drapers Hall 1 8 1 6 88 2 2 2 Clerkenwell 4 , 49 , , 3 9 Dryden , Joh n 5 Cl is s o l d P 2 2 a 6 ark 4, 45 D uck Isl nd 4 1 8 1 w P 2 2 Clot h Fair D u l ic h ark 4, 7 1 6 2 2 1 6 2 8 Cl u niacs 5 College 7 , , 3 Coal Exch a nge 1 03 8 0 1 1 8 Cockney 79 , Early Englis h Style 3 7 , 3 2 1 8 1 8 Colet , Dean Eastc h eap 5 l f ’ C o e s G r a m m ar Sch ool 2 4 2 Easterlings 9 1 College of Heralds 1 76 East India Co m pany 9 2 6 1 1 0 1 1 0 Co m m ercial Docks 3 , Docks 3 7 , 1 1 Co m m u ne of London , t h e 9 7 East m inster 5 4 t h e 1 1 1 Co m ptroller, City 99 East Saxons 4 2 t h e 1 0 Cook , Captain 3 9 Edward Confessor 7 Corn Exch ange 1 0 3 I I I 1 1 8 r t h e 1 6 1 1 2 0 Co poration , City 9 , 9 7 , I V 1 8 2 08 9 Egyptian Hall , t h e 0 1 0 2 1 2 0 Covent Garden 5 7 Elizabet h , Q u een 3 , ,

. 1 1 2 Cowley , A 9 Elt h a m 45 r 2 2 6 C aft Gilds 9 4 Co m m on 4 , O 1 2 0 P 1 Cro m well , liver alace 7 4 2 1 2 1 2 2 T h o m as 9 Epping Forest , 25 2 EAS T LONDON

1 1 1 1 1 u i 1 2 06 Et h elbert 4, 5 , 47 G ldh all , t h e 9 , 2 2 6 2 0 Evelyn , Joh n Library 7 M m 1 2 1 2 u se u 5 , 3 i 6 G u n du l f 1 1 8 1 6 Farr ngdon Road 4 , 9 Street 46 G u tter Lane 1 1 7 r 1 2 0 2 2 G u 2 1 0 Finsb u y 5 , , 3 9 , 45 y , T h o m as ’ i 1 2 2 1 1 l 2 1 0 F re , t h e Great , 3 5 , 74 Gu y s Hospita B 2 0 1 rigade , t h e F i t z a i l wi n 1 1 8 1 2 0 , Henry , 9 7 Hackney 4 Fi t z s t e h en 1 6 2 2 2 0 p 3 Downs 4, 5 , 4 1 1 6 Ma 2 2 2 2 0 Fleet River , 45 , 4 , 4 7 rs h 3 , 4, 5 , 4 r 8 1 St eet 47 , 7 Ha m m ers m it h 4, 3 3 t h e 1 1 1 Fle m ings , 7 7 , 9 Ha m pstead , 5 5 1 1 2 2 B 1 2 Forest Hill , 4 arrow 9 r t h e 1 6 2 8 F anciscans , 5 Heat h 3 , 5 F u l h a m 9 Harr ison 3 0 P 2 0 2 a 2 1 alace H stings , Warren 9 a 8 8 H tton Garden 7 7 , i 1 6 1 6 r 1 1 8 Gates , C ty 4 , 5 Hen y I a P O ffi 2 08 1 6 Gener l ost ce , t h e II I 9 Geoffrey de Mandeville 1 8 V 1 1 9 Geological Mu se u m 5 6 V I 1 1 9 Gerard 5 7 VI I I 1 2 0 t h e h 2 2 2 Gilds , 9 3 Hogart 3 4, 4 Glass hou se Y ard 2 3 9 Holborn 1 5 Go dwe l l 46 H o l e b o u r n e River 45 Gog and Magog 2 0 7 Holloway 1 4 O 2 2 1 Golds m it h , liver 5 Holy Trinity , Aldgate 5 4 ’ Golds m it h s Hall 1 8 1 Holywell 49

r . 2 2 1 a 2 2 Go don , C Hood , T ho m s 5 Riots 1 2 2 H o r s l eydo wn 2 3 7 ’ Go s fr i t h 1 8 2 0 Hospital Fu nd , King Edward s 9 Go u gh Sq u a r e 2 2 8 S unday and Satu rday F u nd h 2 2 2 0 Gower , Jo n 4 9

2 2 . 1 0 Gray , T ho m as 5 Hou blon , Sir J 3 ’ r 60 8 8 G ay s Inn Rookery H uguenots , t h e 7 7 , P t h e 2 2 P 2 2 Green ark , Hyde ark 0 2 Greenwich 9 , 3 , 3 9 Hospital 3 6 Inner Circle Railway 1 9 3 M t h e 1 2 8 1 2 ars h es 3 7 Iron Age , , 9 O 2 1 2 6 8 8 bservatory 5 , 7 , 7 , 7 3 Isle of Dogs 3 , Palace 1 7 5 Islington 2 40 P 2 2 2 2 S a ark , 4, 5 p 49 T u nnel 44 1 6 I I 2 1 1 Gres h a m , Sir T h o m as 9 , 9 , Ja m es 3 , 9 1 0 2 1 1 8 1 Joh n , King , 9 7 ’ 1 6 2 2 2 2 2 2 Grey Friars Hou se 5 Joh nson , Dr 5 , 7 , 4

25 4 EAST LONDON

P l 2 1 a 1 1 0 1 ee , Sir Robert 9 Royal Exch nge , t h e 9 , , “ Peelers 2 1 9 1 0 2 P u 1 1 1 2 2 6 i 1 1 0 epys , Sa m el 3 7 , 9 , , V ctoria Docks 2 8 2 0 3 , 4 ’ P e r pendi cu lar Style 1 40 Sadler s Wells 49 P eter of St Mary Colech u r ch 40 Saf ron Hill 5 7 P 8 r 1 1 0 h ysic Garden , t h e 5 St Andrew Unde s h aft 3 5 , 4 ’ P a i 6 B a r 1 1 6 1 icc d lly 4 St t holo m ew s 3 5 , 5 , 5 7 P r P 1 i a l 1 8 2 1 0 inda , S ir au l 79 Hosp t 5 , ’ P u 1 2 0 B 1 lag e , t h e St otolp h s 3 4 ’ P u 1 2 6 B 1 l m stead 4 , 4 St ride s 44 m 2 2 6 2 6 6 Co m on 4 , , 4 St Cle m ent Danes 7 ’ Marsh es 5 7 St D u n s t a n s 1 1 5 ’ P l 2 1 E t h el b u r a s 1 1 1 0 o ytech nics 3 St g 3 4, 3 5 , 4 ’ P 6 1 E t h el dr e da s 1 1 8 ool , t h e 3 , 4 St 3 5 , 3 ’ P r 2 2 Gi l es s 1 1 0 ope , Alexande 5 St Cripplegate 3 5 , 4 , P oplar 2 42 1 63 ’ P t u h 1 0 2 0 1 1 0 1 or A t ority , t h e 7 , 3 St Helen s 3 5 , 4 , 5 7 ’ Sanitary Au t h or ity 1 08 St Joh n s Ch apel in t h e Tower P r t h e 1 I I ° o treeve , 9 7 3 7 , 7 ’ Prince Hen r y s Roo m 1 79 St Kat h e r ine Cree 1 3 5 P 6 1 1 0 utney Heat h 5 7 Docks 3 , St La wr ence Jewr y 1 44 ’ u i 0 1 66 2 Q een h t h e 3 4, 9 , St Lu ke s 3 9 ’ ’ u P r r 2 2 M 1 Q een s a k , Kilb u n St agnu s 44 ’ St Martin s -l e - Grand 2 08 R a h er e 1 1 8 M 1 5 7 , 5 St ary of Grace 5 4 l 1 M O f 1 6 Rai ways , Electric 9 3 St ary ver e 5 T u be 1 9 3 St Ma r y -l e - B o w 1 3 7 ’ Ratcli ff 2 45 St Mich ael s 1 44 ’ r 8 Ol a ve s 6 1 1 0 Ravensbou ne , River 3 7 , 3 St 3 4, 7 , 3 5 , 4 ’ Reco r d Tower 1 7 1 St Osyt h s 1 1 5 ’ t h e 1 P 1 Recorder , City 99 St au l s 3 4, 45 ’ P 2 2 2 2 1 Regent s ark , 3 Sc h ool 4 u 1 P 1 0 1 Religious Ho ses , t h e 5 4 St eter ad Vincu la 4 , 73 ’ t h e 1 1 8 1 0 Re m e m brancer, City 99 St Saviou r s 3 , 4 ’ 0 2 Rennie , Jo h n 4 St Sepu lch re s 3 9 ’ 1 1 8 1 8 1 Rich ard I I St Steph en s 3 , 44 ’ W 1 1 . 8 1 1 1 Rich m ond , Sir 4 St Swit h in s 5 , 3 3 , 44 W' P S i r . 2 8 1 1 8 1 1 Rider, 3 Savoy alace , 9 \ t h e 1 2 1 River Valls , 9 Saxon London 3 3 Ro m an London 1 3 0 Sayes Cou r t 2 3 9 1 1 t h e 1 Re m ains 3 Serjeant , Co m m on 99 r 1 2 2 0 1 2 1 8 2 Rosebe y , Lord 3 , , S h adwell 45 2 8 2 M 8 Rot h erh it h e , 3 7 arket 9 Tu nnel 44 S h akespeare 2 2 4 Royal A lbert Docks 1 1 0 S h eri ffs 1 9 7 INDE ! 25 5

6 t h e 1 0 2 6, 1 6 S h ipping Exch ange , 3 Tower, t h e 9 , 3 , 3 8 8 2 B 6 1 S horeditc h , 43 ridge 3 , 4 8 1 2 Sloane , Sir Hans 5 Green 7 2 1 2 0 S m it h , Sydney 9 Ha m lets f M r 6 8 1 S m it h ield a ket 9 , 9 Hill 7 3 ’ 1 r 1 6 1 1 Solicitor, t h e City 99 T aitors Gate 9 , 9 8 6 2 1 2 Sout h wark , 43 Tra m ways 4 B ridge 4 1 Trinity Hou se 1 0 8 ’ a t h e 2 2 8 Cat h edr l 3 4 Tu rk s Head , P r 2 8 T b o u r n e r a k y , or Tyb u n 45 2 2 Spenser , Ed m u nd 4 S i t a l fie l ds 8 2 2 1 p 7 7 , 3 , 45 University College 3 M 8 2 1 2 1 6 arket 9 of London 3 , t h e 1 2 1 6 Steelyard , 9 School Stepney 2 45 t h e 1 00 Stock Exc h ange , Vale of Healt h 4 5 2 1 0 2 1 2 Stoke Newington 45 Victoria , Q ueen , 5 t h e 1 2 1 Stone Age , 4 E m bank m ent 4 1 66 2 2 1 P r 2 2 2 2 Stow , Jo h n , a k 3 . 4 . 5 , 3 7 Streat h a m 1 4 Vinegar Y ard 5 7 2 Co m m on 3 , 5 7 2 2 W fi 1 1 Strype , Joh n 3 ake eld Tower 7 r 1 W r 1 0 1 8 S u rey 5 alb ook , 4 5 , 4 7 , 7 2 1 6 W t h e 1 60 S u tton , T h o m as all of London , W 1 1 1 2 2 . 1 Syden h a m , 4 Walwort h , Sir 9 Wandswort h 8 3 2 2 2 2 Tabard Inn , t h e 4 , 43 Co m m on 3 , 5 7 Tacitu s 8 9 Wapping 2 45 Taylor t h e water poet 1 8 9 Ol d Stai r s 1 8 7 Teddi n gton 3 2 Wa t t h e Tiler 1 1 8 Te m plars 1 5 6 Water -gates 1 8 7 1 6 Wa 0 Te m ple C h u rc h 5 ter m en , T h a m es 3 2 0 W W Gardens 5 7 , 5 ell alk 49 M 2 0 W 2 2 0 Inner and iddle 4 ellington , Du ke of 2 2 W T h ackeray 3 ells , River 45 1 0 2 2 1 8 W 2 1 T h a m es , River , 9 , 3 , 5 , esley , Joh n 9 1 8 7 \V e s t b o u r n e 45 1 0 2 0 \ P 2 2 Conservancy 7 , 3 Vest Ha m ark 2 a 6 1 1 0 E m bank m ent 9 , 3 4 Indi Docks 3 , Frost Fairs 3 0 West m inster 1 5 1 1 1 8 Tu nnel 43 Abbey 7 , 3 Water m en 1 9 0 B ridge 7 T horney 1 1 7 School 2 1 5

o . 1 8 W 0 T h rn h ill , Sir J 4 h istler 7 u 1 1 0 W 8 2 Tilb ry Dock h itec h apel 9 , 45 Tooley Street 1 1 7 VV h i t e fr ia i s 1 5 5 2 \Vh i t e h a l l 0 1 0 1 1 1 2 Tooting Co m m on 3 3 , 3 , 9 , 9 25 6 EAST LONDON

\Vh i t e 1 1 8 1 6 Wo o l wi c h r a 6 Tower , t h e 7 7 , , 9 , A sen l 3 1 0 m 2 2 2 2 6 7 Co m on , 4, ’ W i n 1 1 r h itt ngto 9 5 , 9 Free Fer y 44

W i . 2 r 2 6 ilk e , Sir D 3 5 No t h 4 W 1 8 W r u 2 illia m I , 7 7 , o m wood Scr bs 3 W 1 1 1 6 . 1 2 2 1 9 ren , Sir C , 45 , t h e B is h op 1 8 1 7 4 ’ W 1 0 W h 1 1 ool Exch ange . t h e 3 ren s ch u rc es 43 , 44, W 1 8 1 1 oolwic h 5 , 3 3 , 9 , 9 9 , 9 , 2 46 Y o r k Hou se 1 89

C A M B I R I T E D B Y O H C L A Y M . A A T T H E I V E RS I TY P R E S S . R DG E : P N J N , . U N