Green Trails Maps and Rely on Them to Orient Myself in the Backcountry

Summer 19 Washington Trails A Publication of Washington Trails Association • wta.org

Connections

Trail Tips from a Wheelchair Hiker How to Create Your Own Loop Hike A New Path for Popular Trails Built for hiking, drawn to water, Choprock is a specialized, highly technical trail-ﬁ rst shoe that thrives near water. Any water. With draining technology, quick-dry materials and Choprock a sticky sole made speciﬁ cally to grip wet trails, it’s the most capable hydro hiker we’ve ever made. And it’s what Zsa

Peru Travel Blogger Zsa and her friends trusted to wear exploring the Millpu Zsa Zsa Pools in Peru. To learn more about Zsa Zsa and the Choprock, visit merrell.com/choprock Photo by Anna Roth Front Desk: Executive Director Washington Trails A Publication of Washington Trails Association

Directors at Large

Andrea Baines • Bruce Burger • Ethan Evans Ashley Fontaine • Thomas Goldstein Joe Gregg • Ken Helm • Jonathan Lau Charlie Lieu • Titti Ringström Supporting Popular Trails Arun Sambataro • Mason White If you’re a Puget Sound hiker, I’m willing to bet you’ve hiked to Snow Lake. Not only is it stunningly beautiful from start to finish, it’s also easily WTA Leadership accessible out of Snoqualmie Pass. So it’s no surprise that the trail has become very popular. Executive Director Jill Simmons Nowhere is our state’s burgeoning hiking community on greater display. When I first hiked to Snow Lake about 15 years ago, I saw maybe 30 other hikers, a lot by the standards of the day. When I hiked it on a Saturday last August, I passed at Washington Trails Staff least five times as many, and a ranger I talked to estimated there were close to Washington Trails Editor | Jessi Loerch 800 hikers throughout the day. Hiking Content Manager | Anna Roth As one who usually hikes in search of solitude, I confess that I was hesitant about Graphic Designer | Jenica Wilkie last summer’s trip to Snow Lake. So, imagine my surprise when my apprehension Copy Editor | Cassandra Overby quickly turned to joy; what I thought would be annoying instead put a smile on my face. Volunteers All around me were others who were also enjoying time with friends and family amid scenery that is often only found far in the backcountry. Trails like Snow Contributors | Andrew Coghill, Lake are gateways for people to discover our natural wonders, often providing Joan Hong, Andrea Laughery, that spark that turns a first-time explorer into a lifelong hiker and a champion for Shannon Leader, Lindsay Leffelman, trails and public lands. Cassandra Overby, Korey Peterson, Julie Popper, Jenny Schmitz, Gale Straub To be clear, it wasn’t all roses. Trailhead parking was kind of a mess and there Proofreaders | Jim Cavin, Rebecca Kettwig were long lines to use the toilet. And, with that many hikers, we need to be sure we enjoy the wilderness landscape without degrading it. But I believe these are Trail Team | Alan Gibbs, Matt Kite, infrastructure and education problems, not people problems. Shannon Leader, Steve Payne, Craig Romano That’s why I’m excited to announce WTA’s new Trails Rebooted campaign (page 14) to support our popular trails at every turn. Trails Rebooted will bring the power of hikers — from maintaining and building trails, to advocating for trailhead investment to promoting hiking best practices and much more — to ensure that we enjoy first-class trails and hiking experiences near Washington’s population centers. Sure, most of my hiking will still seek solitude, but Snow Lake taught me that’s not all that I want. I also want to enjoy close-to-home trails where I can walk alongside our diverse and growing hiking community. Through Trails Rebooted, Washington Trails Association let’s work together to preserve and expand these front-country hiking experiences 705 Second Avenue, Suite 300, Seattle, WA 98104 far into the future. 206-625-1367 • wta.org

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 3 Summer 2019: Contents

Trails Rebooted Trails don’t just happen. They take work and 14 thoughtful planning. So — with your help and support — we’re launching a new campaign to care for our state’s most popular hiking areas.

40 16

Features

26 Building Community Joan Hong helped start Outdoor Asian to connect to her heritage and her larger community. Building 30 Exploring by Wheel Connections How one hiker adapted to using a How WTA is connecting wheelchair — and her advice on getting 22 hikers and trails — and outside for other wheelchair hikers. leading the way to a sustainable trail system in Southwest Washington. 32 Loop Hikes On the cover How to create your own loops, from a chill 36 Memorial Hikes Paloma Ayala took day trip to an epic backpacking adventure. this photo on the Spending time on trail is a powerful way Little Maui Trail in to honor a loved one's memory. 34 Motivating Kids the Columbia River Gorge. Paloma’s son 7 tips to help your young hiker — and you — 38 UP North Loop have a fun time on trails. and his friend were in their element. Two adventurous hikers have created a new long-distance trail in the Northwest. Photo by Sean Downes, Illustration courtesy Sean Freepik Downes, by Photo

4 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Signpost: Editor

Departments

3 Front Desk Greetings from our executive director and Washington Trails editor

6 Community Hiking with dogs — we’re all in it together Beginnings 10 Trail Talk New maps on wta.org, a big win for love beginnings. The first few steps on a new trail are always public lands, charting the future for full of so much potential and excitement, as I dream about roads to trails all the things that are yet to come. This magazine is a new beginning, too, and it’s just as exciting as starting down a 43 Trail Mix brand new trail. Books, gear & photography I 46 NW Weekend For this issue of the magazine, you’ve probably noticed a new look Explore the Alpine Lakes from a base camp and a slightly different feel. The magazine is now eight pages longer. in cozy cabins We’ve updated the cover of the magazine, which was last refreshed in 2012. We’ve also changed some of our fonts and other design 50 Hike it Short or long — 5 trails that can be a cozy elements. ramble or a challenging backpack All of this is for one purpose. We want you to know the stories of 58 Flora & Fauna Washington’s trails, and we want those stories to be easy, educational Meet the moose and elephant’s-head and pleasurable to read. We also want to inspire you and make it even easier for you to help us do more to shape the future of trails. 59 Snapshot A hiking cat with a powerful story The look may be different, but that goal is the same as it’s always been.

This issue of the magazine tells stories of how trails connect us — to each other and to special places. It also has stories of beginnings, most specifically the launch of ourTrails Rebooted campaign, which will help connect people and trails in new and exciting ways (Page POWERED BY YOU 14). You’ll also find stories about how WTA is making connections in Washington Trails Association the Southwest part of Washington (page 22), all to improve trails and is a nonprofit supported by a conditions for hikers. I hope these stories help you understand and community of hikers like you. By connect to the work we’re doing, with your help, all across the state. mobilizing hikers to be explorers, stewards and champions for trails And, of course, I hope the information in this magazine helps launch and public lands, together, we will you on a summer of outdoor adventures. Maybe you need our tips on ensure that there are trails for everyone, forever. how to motivate your kids to hike. Or maybe you’ll appreciate advice on making your own loop trip, from easy to epic. Whatever it is, I hope this summer you connect to trails in new and fulfilling ways.

See you outside! Summer 2019 | Volume 54, Issue 3 Washington Trails (ISSN 1534-6366) is published by Washington Trails Association, 705 2nd Avenue, Suite 300, Seattle, WA 98104. Annual membership dues, which include a subscription to Washington Trails magazine, are $50. Single copy price is $4.50. Periodicals postage paid at Seattle, WA, and at additional mailing locations. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Jessi Loerch | Washington Trails editor | [email protected] Washington Trails Association, 705 2nd Ave., Suite 300, Seattle, WA 98104. P.S. This magazine is the kick-off to our new quarterly schedule for Washington Trails magazine. Watch for your next magazine in CLEAR August. And, of course, find us online anytime at wta.org.

AREA

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 5 Community

Dogs on trail: It’s a hot topic. But it doesn’t have to be if we all do our part to take care of each other.

Perspectives The Dog Divide Whether you hike It’s a Ruff Issue to Tame.By Loren Drummond with dogs or not, we all share the trail. We “He’s friendly,” they shouted at me as are tough to trail-proof. Our beloved “ their dog, a goofy young Lab, barreled furry friends can act like goobers, need to try to consider towards me and my nervous dog, Lula. demonstrating behaviors and reactions other perspectives. We keep her leashed for exactly these that confound us. They pull, jump, chase kinds of unexpected encounters, be and bite. It’s hard to admit, and it can they wildlife, folks who might be afraid be embarrassing to manage in the tight of dogs or pups like this giant goofball confines of a trail. the trail. We need to try to consider other perspectives. whose attention she will definitely not For some people, an encounter with a enjoy. dog can be stressful or scary. They may Try this: The next time you’re part of a Dogs on trail: Bring up the topic in a be afraid of dogs, and a chance encounter tense encounter involving dogs, try to room full of hikers, and you’ll see people can be hard when they’re just looking to find empathy for the folks on the other on both sides of the debate get their unwind in nature. All of us come to the side. Try to see how love or fear or being hackles up. (If only we could bring the trail (and to conversations online and new to an experience might color what’s same fire to the subject of trail funding, off) with these stored-up experiences going on. I know it can feel like everyone amiright?) and charged emotions. And when we is ignoring the rules or behaving badly. hit the trail, feelings flare up in all kinds But as you hike, notice all the people (and The problem with dogs is not dogs. It’s pups) trying to do the right thing. Smile. of situations — when you see someone us. And it’s a problem complicated by the Say thanks. Take care of each other. sheer number of factors in play: safety, disregard the rules or when a passing hiker I’ve found that talking to people can laws, wildlife, ecology, etiquette. And, makes a cutting remark about your dog. make these situations just a little easier. perhaps most of all, our very human But does it have to? Maybe all these little conversations, these emotions. Our feelings often get us into this mess. tiny acts of consideration, will add up to Dogs are family, and we love them Maybe they can get us out too. Whether a better collective trail experience for all of us.

like family. Let’s be real, though; dogs you hike with dogs or not, we all share Jason Heritage by Photo

6 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Share a story Show us your photos of canine friends on trail. Memorable moments from WTA’s Instagram community.

This photo was taken on the Lake to Lake trail, a 10-mile trail through the Bellevue greenbelt that connects Lake Washington to Lake Sammamish. I enjoy this photo because people wouldn’t necessarily think “Bellevue” when they see forest or streams. However, Bellevue actually has a lot of green space to explore. People often fail to — Marcia Nobuyama, @marsupialpolis explore the hidden trails and greenbelts within their own cities. Also, I enjoy the photo because my dog is a Jindo from South Korea, which are notorious for their aversion to running water. So it took some coaxing and a couple of treats in order to get him to sit that close to the creek! This photo was taken on a hike to Heather Lake. My pup and I have gone hiking all over Washington. For this trip, we took some friends who don’t often hike with us. I love this photo because it’s me and my favorite hiking buddy. My dog has accompanied me on tons of hikes, so it’s a special memory, especially now that she is getting older and can’t hike as long or as far as she used to.

Share your trail stories with us on Instagram @washingtontrails

@Jindogo1 — Nick Warren,

My brother, Adam, was visiting from Arizona and I wanted him to see Ebey’s Landing. We took the prairie trail to the bluff trail for the viewpoint. The trail is decently flat and just wide enough for his wheelchair — Taylor Schmuki, to fit. My dog, Amber, joined us, but I forgot her leash @allroadsleadto_amber at my house, so we used a scarf from the car. I like how fancy my dog looks in her scarf. Plus, it’s always great to see my brother out hiking, especially where he can see a very rewarding view.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 7 Community

Any responsible hiking dog is always careful to ensure their humans are well behaved.

More tips on hiking with dogs wta.org/ passing opportunities are limited, it’s dogs Tips: Dogs on Trail best practice to yield to faster hikers and equestrians. If your dog is leashed, it makes Whether you have a dog or not, some advice to it easier to guide them where they need to be. ensure harmony on trail. By Erik Haugen-Goodman • Be prepared to pack out your dog’s waste; always carry bags. And take the bag with you. Don’t leave it next to the trail, you Chances are if you hike in Washington, either you’re might forget the bag later. And leaving bags next to the trail bringing a dog along or you’ve encountered one on trail. In encourages others to do the same. (Not to mention, poop bags the last year we’ve received a lot of questions about hiking with aren’t a pleasant sight for other hikers.) a furry companion, so here are a few tips for both hiking with, and coming across, dogs on your next hike. For hikers encountering dogs • If you’d like to pet or interact with a hiker’s dog, it’s best to For hikers with dogs ask first. A simple “Can I say hi?” is good manners on and off • It’s always best to keep dogs on leash during your hike, even if the trail. they’re well-trained. While you might have your own dog under • If a person with a dog has pulled off the trail and is trying to control, other dogs may not be, and having your dog leashed keep the dog’s attention, they are probably working on training will limit potential issues. It keeps your pup safe and gives the dog to have better manners. Keep moving past at a normal others peace of mind. Keeping your dog on a leash also avoids speed, and don’t pay the dog-in-training extra attention. any potential conflicts with the native fauna, including birds • See an off-leash dog coming from far away? Call out and and other critters. politely ask the owner if they wouldn’t mind putting their dog • Another good reason to have your dog leashed is that it on leash as they pass you. Yeah, it’s kind of uncomfortable, but

makes it easier to yield to other hikers. On narrow trails where most hikers won’t mind. Lianna Matteson by Photo

8 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Highlights

A quick look at what WTA is accomplishing on trails around the state. Leading Together This spring, WTA held its first Outdoor Leadership Training Instructor Workshop, an effort to bring more voices and perspectives onto the courses for educators who want to take youth outdoors. The new program will allow WTA to bring more workshops to more communities around the state. We’re excited to have Jennifer Grasso and Collin Tasaka, our first non-staff instructors, facilitating workshops in coming months.

A New Loop WTA volunteers have built a new connector trail, The Silver Shadow Trail, in Yacolt Burn State Forest. The trail adds about 1.5 miles of new trail and forms part of a lollipop loop for hikers. This project is one of several sections of trail that were envisioned in the Yacolt Burn Recreation Plan that WTA helped to create. More work, including a volunteer vacation this summer, is planned in the area to create more trails and loop options.

Good Work 2019 Legislative Highlights A Big Thank You! WTA was honored this WTA celebrated a big win with Thank you to all who spring with a Conservation the 2019 legislative session. A bill supported trails Leadership Award creating Washington Public Lands during Give Big. NOTEWORTHY presented by the Capitol Day passed and was signed by the You + WTA = Together Land Trust. The award was governor. For more details about we will ensure that in recognition of our work in session’s outcomes — good and bad there are Trails for the Darlin Creek Preserve. — go to wta.org/legislature2019. Everyone, Forever. Photos by Britt Lê, Brandon Tigner Brandon Britt Lê, by Photos

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 9 Trail Talk Have Map, Will Hike New downloadable maps on wta.org offer hikers more information to plan their trips. By Anna Roth

If you’ve read almost anything from WTA about getting outside, you know we want you to be prepared when you go hiking. Have water and snacks, extra clothing and all the A map is no other Ten Essentials, help if you don’t including a map. know how to read it. For But we know the map tips on getting part can be tricky. started, visit While you can buy wta.org/maps. maps online from our partner Green Trails, or visit an outdoor store to get them, that takes time and preplanning. If you don’t have spare time to buy in person, or if you’re heading for the hills on a last- minute jaunt, WTA’s website has you covered, thanks to a recent addition to our guidebooks and maps section, found just to the left of driving directions on each hike. For many of Washington’s most popular trails, you’ll now see links that let you purchase the corresponding Green Trails map or will allow you to download a WTA-produced map.

The Green Trails links go directly Some of the most popular hikes in Washington, such as the West Fork Foss Lakes, now to the specific map of that area, include downloadable maps on wta.org. The maps are useful for helping to plan a hike and give making purchasing easy. I love you more information about what to expect on trail. Green Trails maps and rely on them to orient myself in the backcountry. They are ground-truthed by hikers, surrounding the trail you’re planning on produces the PDFs, creating them as the and each one puts your hike in a hiking, as well as a highlighted track of the tracks come in, which is why not every larger context. You can use them trail. You can print it out or download it to single hike has a PDF map on it. Not to identify distant peaks, and the your phone, so you can reference it even yet, at least. Many of them do, though, web of connecting trails on each if you don’t have a cell signal. The scale including some local parks, and maps of map provides inspiration for future of these maps is more for planning than those areas are useful when signage is adventures. detailed navigating, but in a pinch it’s always poor. better to have a map, even if it’s not the most If the price tag for a full map is more Whether you’re a seasoned backpacker detailed. than you can spare, or if you’re or just getting started hiking, we want heading out at the last minute, your The tracks on these PDF maps are ground- you to be safe out there. And that means alternative is WTA’s download link, truthed by me and my team of volunteer making it easier for you to have the which takes you to a PDF file. This hiking guide correspondents, who help me resources you need for a safe and fun image shows the area immediately keep the WTA hiking guide up to date. WTA outing.

10 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org A Huge Victory Details on what the massive public lands bill means for Washington. By Christina Hickman

In March, the largest public lands bill in recent history was signed into law. Washington Trails Association has been working for years in support of the Land and Water Conservation Fund and other pieces of the bill. We’re thrilled to see those efforts paid off. This is an enormous win for hikers, with sweeping benefits for Washington state. Here are some highlights of the bill. Permanent reauthorization of LWCF For 53 years, the Land and Water Conservation Fund has been our nation’s most successful conservation and recreation program, supporting local economies; providing infrastructure for public health, tourism and recreation; and increasing access to the outdoors. LWCF is paid for with non-taxpayer dollars, using a small portion of revenues from offshore drilling. Each year, millions of dollars are deposited into an LWCF account. Since 1965, LWCF has allocated nearly $699 million to Washington state to protect some of our most beloved places and trails, including Mount Rainier and Olympic national parks, Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve and the Columbia River Gorge. In addition, here are some specific Thank you for speaking up projects the LWCF has funded. This is a huge victory for not only hikers but everyone The bill was good news for public lands, such as state • Pacific Crest National who enjoys the outdoors. Thank you for helping parks like Steamboat Rock Scenic Trail: Protection of to make it happen. In less than 24 hours, almost State Park, which was created more than 18,000 acres along 700 members of the WTA community emailed their with the help of LWCF funds. the PCT in the last 15 years. congressional representatives in support of the bill! • Carbon River: Funding for Creek Trail in Vancouver and WTA is proud and thankful that Washington’s the Ipsut Creek campground at the Oak Creek elk viewing area bipartisan delegation — 10 members of the House Mount Rainier to be relocated in Yakima County. and two senators — all voted in favor of the bill. and for the conversion of a National heritage area historic farmhouse into a visitor Washington’s own Sen. Maria Cantwell worked center. tirelessly since LWCF expired in September 2018 to A new national heritage area create the legislation that passed through Congress. designation provides the • Alpine Lakes Wilderness: recognition and resources Protection of many areas, needed to increase the visibility including portions of the of the Mountains to Sound Ingalls Creek and Chiwaukum Greenway, the 1.5 million acres surrounding Washington’s I-90 Creek trails, Eightmile Lake and lands along Waptus River and corridor from Ellensburg to Seattle. It connects urban centers, Pratt Lake. forests, mountain peaks, small farms and rural communities. • Sacagawea Heritage Trail: Re-establishing public access between the river and downtown Kennewick and extending Methow headwaters wetland trails. The package safeguarded one of our state’s premier recreation • State parks: Acquisition, development and redevelopment of areas from industrial-scale mining claims, removing mineral more than 50 Washington state parks since 1967. rights from 340,000 acres in the upper Methow Valley, including • Close to home: LWCF ensures people have access to outdoor Flagg Mountain, which sits above Mazama. places near them. It’s the largest source of federal funding for close-to-home projects that give children access to nature. Every Kid Outdoors LWCF grants have enabled communities to create trails, parks, The act formally reauthorized 7 years of the Every Kid in a Park playgrounds, urban wildlife refuges, greenways and other program (now called Every Kid Outdoors), which provides recreational facilities in places like Riverbend Park in Spokane, fourth graders with a free pass for themselves and their families Discovery Park and Gas Works Park in Seattle, the Burnt Bridge to federally managed public lands like national parks. Photos by Alexander Eastman Alexander by Photos

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 11 Trail Talk

Maggie Oliver loved to explore outside as a kid, and she’s passing that love on to her students.

New skills Profile with WTA

Maggie is excited Sharing Her Love for Nature to enroll in a WTA WTA member Maggie Oliver passes on the values of conservation Outdoor Leadership to her students. By Whitney Allen Training workshop this summer, so she can Maggie Oliver always looks forward to her unit on conservation. It’s never too early to start learn more skills for kindergarten class’s spring curriculum, teaching kids to care about the planet.” sharing the outdoors which focuses on the environment. She with her students. This connection to stewardship comes easily teaches in an inclusion classroom, meaning When she’s not to Maggie. She grew up in an outdoorsy family her students range from neurotypical to teaching, you can find in the Seattle area, where she still lives today. heavily impacted by autism. Maggie feels the Maggie out on trail or Her elementary school taught her about the responsibility to connect her students with the baking elaborate cakes importance of nature, through field trips to world around them and to teach them to use and pastries for her nearby parks and lessons about the history of their voices to protect the things they care about friends. Keep an eye indigenous lands. Supported by the passion of — because she knows from her own childhood out for her vintage WTA her parents, Maggie learned that conservation is the value of learning to love and steward the membership decal, essential to our existence on this planet. natural world. Step one: Introduce the kids to which WTA has offered many different topics to ignite their passion. But she didn’t always love hiking. to replace but Maggie insists on keeping “Right now, that thing happens to be volcanoes,” “When we were younger, my brother and I for its memories and Maggie said about her class earlier this year. always needed a little incentive to make it to the throwback charm.

“But in the spring, we are going to start a science top of the hike,” she said. “But we eventually Guenther Grace by Photo

12 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org came around. My mom would always tell the story of the day she knew we loved it as much as she did. Our parents had taken us on one of our Help Hikers summer camping trips at Mount Rainier, and our first night we listened to a ranger talk about the first mountaineers to summit the mountain. The next day when we went for a hike, rather than dragging our feet Get There like my mom expected, my brother and I practically raced to the top.” We’re taking a look at roads across As Maggie’s passion for hiking developed, she discovered the WTA the state as part of work to ensure hiking guide, which introduced her to new trails and experiences. access to trails. By Allie Tripp Maggie began to explore her home state more and more — and to introduce her friends to the incredible places that inspired her. She The “road conditions” marker on a WTA trip frequently saw WTA volunteer work parties when she was out hiking, report can strike fear in the hearts of would-be and looked for other ways to get involved. Soon, she joined WTA as a hikers. Decades from now, when cars hover off member. the ground, perhaps road conditions won’t keep “I couldn’t commit to giving us from our next favorite hike. But for now, the much, but I am proud to be quality (or lack thereof) of a road can make or a member because I see how I am proud to break our access to our favorite trail. much work gets done. And that With the help of our supporters, WTA has been work makes it possible for me be a member advocating to maintain and improve road access to connect with nature, which “because I see and conditions for decades. We also support is so important to me,” the decommissioning of some old roads and the she said. how much work conversion of roads to trails when it makes sense Two years ago, Maggie and (example: the Lower South Fork Skokomish River her family returned to Mount gets done. Trail). Often, we author or sign comment letters Rainier — the park that sparked in favor of keeping roads open and maintained, her passion for hiking – for especially when they offer access to multiple another life-changing moment. trailheads. Her mother, Janet, had been diagnosed with gastric cancer in 2014. But this work takes an enormous amount of time Years of treatment, with many ups and downs, ultimately could not and collaboration. For example, the reopening treat the illness. Even though she was very sick, Janet insisted the of the Suiattle River Road in 2014 was the family take a trip to Paradise. In a borrowed oversized SUV, Maggie, culmination of 11 years of collaboration between Janet and the rest of their family packed a picnic and loaded up for federal, local and tribal governments. Hikers the trip. rejoiced at the renewed opportunity to access the “It was a perfect day, not a cloud in the sky,” Maggie said. “My parents historic Green Mountain Lookout and the lush, sat at the lodge, soaking in the sun, and my mom told us ‘kids’ to go off forested Suiattle River Trail. Well-maintained on a hike. We spent a few hours scampering around, knowing this was roads are critical not only for hikers, but also for exactly what she wanted for us. Back at the lodge, we reminisced about trail maintenance crews, and it is critical to our the many summers spent at the mountain. We sat in silence, and we mission that we speak up for roads across the cried.” state. When Janet passed away a few weeks later, Maggie knew that the You can help outdoors would be an integral part of her grieving and healing process. Have poor road conditions ever prevented you from With her brother and some close friends, Maggie took to the trails, this accessing a hike? Tell us about the condition of time at Olympic National Park, where they found an ideal campsite. the road in your next trip report. This information “Lying in the camp hammock and wandering the beach, everything is critical to WTA’s advocacy efforts and is often was so beautiful,” she said. “I felt so connected to my mom, to my considered by our partners and land managers family, to the world and to myself. I was able to let go of everything. I when they assess road maintenance issues. laughed with my friends, I cried with my friends, I cried alone. It was as close to perfect as it is possible to get.” As part of our new campaign, Trails Rebooted (page 14), we're taking a close look at roads Back in the classroom, Maggie can see the impact a connection with that access trails across the state. We will nature can have in her students’ lives. Watching her students explore identify key roads that provide access to nature in the same way her family explored with her, Maggie knows outdoor opportunities, and aim to provide that she’s helping develop the students’ passions. And she is proud to recommendations for how we can create a protect the trails and wild spaces they will explore as they grow. sustainable road system that meets the needs “Access to the outdoors is invaluable,” Maggie said. “If kids can’t of hikers for decades to come. Watch for details get outside and have fun, how can we expect them to take on the about this work in late 2019 — and keep those trip inevitable burden of preserving our planet when they grow up?” (and road!) reports coming.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 13 WTA is working to protect iconic trails, such as Rattlesnake Ledge and Walt Bailey, and build a future for a sustainable trail system across the state.

Trails Forever

We’re reimagining Washington's trail system — starting with Trails the most beloved hiking spots across the state. Rebooted By Allie Tripp

14 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org ur state’s iconic trails serve as touchstones for locals and newcomers alike, appearing all over social media, listed in outdoor guides and serving as living testaments for the unmatched beauty of our region. But these trails don’t just happen. They require thoughtful planning, public funding and commitment from communities to maintain. As Washington’s population has grown, growing demand for trails and chronic underfunding has placed an inordinate amount of strain on the system. Significant effort and innovation are required if we are going to have trails for everyone, forever. WTA has a history of stepping in when it’s needed so hikers always have trails to explore. Now, we’re focusing our efforts on building a sustainable trail system for the future. We are excited to share with you the beginning of our Trails Rebooted campaign, which is creating solutions to support our popular recreation areas by improving existing trails, championing the construction of new ones and helping hikers see the role they play in the future of trails. At WTA, we are focusing our efforts on Where you might see a single trail, we are building creative solutions to create a looking at landscape level opportunities. sustainable trail system for the future. Where you might see a crowded parking lot, WTA sees dozens of new hikers who could become champions for trails sustainability and growing demand in admire while you hike. WTA is proud to and public lands. These hikers could mind — will guarantee memorable hikes have been supporting this area since its attend Hiker Rally Day, become trail for generations to come. Here are the purchase in 2013. In late 2018, the forest’s ambassadors, volunteer to do trail work areas where we’re focusing our attention 15-year recreation plan was finalized, and become WTA members! first: including input from hundreds of WTA advocates. In this pilot area, we are Reimagining trail The Teanaway excited to contribute to the execution of systems to meet growing The Teanaway area is a favorite among this recreation plan through trail building enthusiasm WTA staff. And now, this area is even and maintenance and relationship better for outdoor recreation with the building with the local community, Through Trails Rebooted, WTA is focused addition of the Teanaway Community other nonprofits and land managers. on improving existing trails while Forest (page 18). The forest, the first of its We see this trail system becoming a new supporting the construction of new kind in Washington, offers stupendous network to explore beyond the popular ones. We will guide hikers to similarly recreation opportunities just beyond the I-90 trails, dispersing hikers and offering inspiring experiences, just on new hubbub of the most popular parts of the connections to the greater Teanaway area and different trails. In 2019, we will be I-90 corridor. beyond the community forest. exploring solutions in several pilot areas that we believe can meet the needs of This sun-drenched side of the Cascades Highway 410-Snoquera hikers in the future. Reimagining and offers early-season escapes from rain Just outside the northeast corner of

upgrading these trail systems now — with and a wide variety of biodiversity to Mount Rainier National Park, this area Jan-Kristian Sona Markiewicz Atanesyan, Sean Downes, by Photos

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 15 has several wonderful hikes that are already popular. Recent fires and an ongoing landscape analysis by the U.S. Forest Service offer a ripe opportunity to think decades into the future about what recreation could look like in this region. In this pilot area, WTA hopes to work with users to create a more sustainable trail system for hikers, offering new adventures to educate and engage people on the importance of this landscape to the local watershed and all the communities downstream.

Mountain Loop Highway Several trails off the Mountain Loop Highway are already well known — just check out the parking lots in the middle of a sunny Saturday. As this area continues to grow in popularity, we hope to partner with land managers, other recreation groups and local communities to reimagine what new and more sustainable trails and infrastructure could look like, including expanding trailheads and creating new hiking opportunities. There are several local economies, like the town of Darrington, that benefit from the recreation economy on the Mountain Loop Highway and are committed to investing in local recreation infrastructure. We want to take a close look at the hiker experience on trails and at trailheads, and consider how we can help improve it.

Spokane area Focusing on Washington’s The recreation community in Spokane most iconic trails has demonstrated a passion for trails What is your favorite trail in Washington? A that is unparalleled. The area has a few of ours include Oyster Dome, Mailbox short trail maintenance season thanks By engaging Peak, Blanca Lake, Umtanum Canyon, to regular snowfall, but that hasn’t Colchuck Lake and Marmot Pass. Our state’s stopped WTA’s volunteer community hikers and looking popular trails are popular for a reason. from seeking out creative opportunities at the larger They offer unmatched beauty and are to stay engaged (just search “snowshoe often close to population centers, making work party” on our website). In this landscapes, them a straightforward half-day or daylong pilot area, WTA is building more adventure. opportunities for these folks to improve we can set the and expand close-to-home trails to standard for what As a part of Trails Rebooted, WTA is meet Spokane’s growing population developing strategies to support 100 of and demand for great hiking. it means to have Washington’s most iconic trails. We’ll use a statewide vision every tool we have to protect these trails, By engaging hikers and looking at whether that means promoting transit-to-trails the larger landscapes, we can set the for trails and access to congested parking at trailheads or standard for what it means to have a inspire people to sending two volunteer backcountry response statewide vision for trails and inspire teams to Blanca Lake this summer to address

people to be champions. be champions. some much-needed trail maintenance. Jason Neuerburg by Photo

16 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org TRAIL SMARTS

How you can help

Giving hikers Sold on the idea of room to explore, with plenty of Trails Rebooted? That’s options for all great – we won’t be able interests, will to achieve anything build a trail without you. Here’s how system that can you can help right now: stand up to many feet and over Make sure you’re many years. signed up for our Trail Action Network. Funding for new and improved trail systems will only happen if you speak up for the trails Improving the hiker experience road access to trails across the state (page you love. We’ll alert you Supporting trails is not just about much-needed 13). Quality roads are crucial to hikers and when action is needed. trail maintenance, though. It’s also about hiker to trail maintenance. We are aiming to better wta.org/tan understand the current state of roads to trails. awareness, transportation access, information Share a Trail Smarts This work will guide our efforts to make the about trail conditions from trip reports and video with your friends. largest impact on improving those experiences so much more. We need targeted education to More knowledgeable improve on-trail experiences and help hikers by demonstrating to decision makers that hikers mean a better discover brand-new adventures. Here are two investment in roads is an investment in our hiking experience for state’s recreation economy and the hiker focused ways we’re working to improve hikers’ everyone! wta.org/ experience. experiences on trail: trailsmarts Help us upgrade the Trail Smarts What success will look like trail system around If you haven’t seen our Trail Smarts video By 2025, our pilot locations will be increasingly the state. Donate today series, now is a great time to check it out. able to offer more outdoor experiences, easing in support of Trails These videos provide quick refreshers on some congestion on other trails. At the same time, Rebooted; wta.org/ of the basic ways to be a responsible hiker to our state’s most iconic and popular trails will trailsrebooted ensure everyone has a great time on trail; wta. be more sustainably routed and more easily Keep up-to-date on org/trailsmarts. accessed by public transportation. And finally, everyone who hikes in Washington will see our work at wta.org/ Trailhead Access themselves as part of the solution to ensure trailsrebooted. Throughout 2019, we will be working to assess trails for everyone, forever.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 17 The Teanaway Community Forest and surrounding areas offer outstanding outdoor recreation.

A Vision for the Teanaway How the Teanaway Community Forest will expand opportunities for hikers while boosting the recreation economy. By Jessi Loerch

18 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org About the forest The state purchased the 50,241-acre Teanaway Community Forest in 2013; it was previously owned by a timber company. The forest is Washington’s first community forest, which means it can be managed for benefits other than revenue, including rom her home in Roslyn, Laura Osiadacz can The power of watershed protection, walk out her front door, up and over a ridge community recreation, fish and wildlife and into the Teanaway Community Forest. The Larry Leach, the assistant habitat, grazing and Teanaway is a special place to her, one that she and manager of the southeast timber production. Fher family have explored for years and have a deep connection region of the state The area has long been to. The Teanaway has rivers, forests, meadows, stunning vistas Department of Natural a popular place for and fascinating geology. Her husband’s family has been in Resources, also serves on recreation with three the area for five generations, and they have long camped and the committee. He was campgrounds, river access hunted in the community forest. excited when the committee spots and a medley of Laura is a commissioner for Kittitas County. As part of that wrapped up the recreation trails that organically role, she serves on the advisory committee for the Teanaway plan, because it meant a developed over time. Community Forest. It’s an area where hikers, bikers, horseback path forward. He says he riders, hunters and so many others can experience the joys of knows WTA and other groups connecting to the natural world. It’s also a powerful example of such as the Back Country what communities can create when they come together to care for Horsemen of Washington and such a special place — and to build a vision for the future, where Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance will be vital to making it all people are connected to a sustainable trail system that offers work. hiking experiences from short strolls to multiday expeditions. The community has come together to create a plan that Andrea Imler, WTA’s advocacy director, also serves on the balances the needs of many different users who might have advisory committee, and has since it was formed. Late last conflicting goals for the land. And locals such as Laura have year, the advisory committee finished work on a plan that will witnessed how powerful this collaboration can be. guide recreation for the next 15 years in the community forest. Andrea has a close personal and professional connection to the The plan envisions a future where hikers, mountain bikers, Teanaway, and has appreciated being able to work with other horseback riders and many others can all have a place to play. people who are so passionate and dedicated. She advocated for the state to purchase the community forest, which happened A vision for the future in 2013. And, on behalf of WTA, Andrea serves on the advisory With the recreation plan finished, there is now a vision for committee to help guide the future of the forest. She also has a the future of recreation in the area. Agencies and partner long history hiking and backpacking in the area. groups are working on some of the early projects in the plan, “The Teanaway has always been a special place,” Andrea said. including improvements to campgrounds and better signage “People just love it, and there is such a passionate community and information. More specific details — such as where to working for its future. They’re some of the best people I’ve ever improve trails or build new trails — will be guided by the overall worked with.” vision of the plan, which designates zones within the forest for different levels of use, from light use on the east side of the Building connections forest to heavier use in the southwest area of the forest. Getting to this point has taken years, and it will be years before Some of the future goals include creating a solid connection the full vision for the community forest is realized. But Laura between the forest and nearby communities, as well as between has already noticed improvements, such as signage and work the community forest and nearby national forest lands. on the campgrounds. The forest has approximately 140 miles of user-built trails. She knows it’s vital work for an area that has the potential to Sorting out the best plan for trails in the area will require provide year-round outdoor recreation for both visitors and careful work, guided by the goals of the plan. Supporters of those who already live there. the community forest worked hard to get the funding complete “Kittitas County is one of the fastest-growing counties in the cultural resource studies, which will identify areas of cultural nation,” she said. “Preserving our natural lands is a value that or historical significance in the area. It will take some time, but is important to our citizens — both for those who have been

Photos by Delton Young, Phil Bird, Taryn Graham, Sylvia Sammons Sylvia Graham, Taryn Bird, Phil Young, Delton by Photos once that is completed, trail work can really get underway. here for generations and for those who have moved to the area.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 19 3

See it yourself 1 3 hikes to get a taste of the Teanaway region:

1 Coal Mines Trail: This wide, fairly flat trail connects Cle Elum, Roslyn and Ronald. One of the reasons they love being here is the rural nature of the economy. A report for the state 2 Ewok Trail: A massive community. Preserving these lands and having the forest is a Recreation and Conservation effort last year from way to ensure the lands are available for people to access.” Office from 2015 found that volunteers with WTA, A bigger part of the vision for the future of the community forest outdoor recreation in Kittitas Mountains to Sound is a plan to connect the forest to the surrounding communities County generates $185 million in Greenway and REI helped of Cle Elum, Roslyn and Ronald using non-motorized trails. economic activity per year and complete this trail, which Trails connect the forest and cities now, but there’s not a supports nearly 1,800 jobs. climbs through open forest to views of the formal, designated trail system. The dream for the future is a During the Jolly Mountain Fire in Stuart Range just outside system of signed and maintained trails that clearly connect the 2017, when people weren’t able of Roslyn. communities and the forest. to come to the area for hiking 3 Johnson Creek — Lauren Shuck, a leader on the Towns to Teanaway project, and other outdoor recreation, the Medra Pass: This quiet impact on the community was as the effort to connect the towns and the forest is known, trail offers sweeping envisions a future where people can easily travel, without cars, clear. Laura said the area looked views of the Upper between the forest and towns. Residents could head out to the like a ghost town. Teanaway and the forest for a close-to-home adventure. And campers in the forest Laura says having people visit backside of the Stuart could walk into town for a burger or a coffee. the area for outdoor recreation Range. Eventually, trails will run from communities near the Teanaway helps provide a regular flow into the community forest, and then farther into the national of customers for small stores, forest in the upper Teanaway. Hikers could leave town and restaurants and gas stations. It offers those businesses a larger choose their own adventure. They could take a short hike on base of customers. a close-to-town trail, walk to the forest or keep going on a Andrea is excited by the potential of the community forest. multiday backpacking adventure. For example, a backpacker could begin in Roslyn, hike into the community forest and “Building a robust trail system in the Teanaway is, of course, follow a trail up the West Fork into the upper Teanaway, such as a huge benefit to hikers who will have access to hiking trails the area around Yellow Hill. from easy strolls to multiday backpacks,” she said. “But it will also give a boost to the gateway communities that will enjoy The outdoor recreation economy year-round benefits from outdoor recreationists visiting and

Outdoor areas such as the Teanaway are important to the area’s spending their dollars within the local communities.” Lisa Holmes Map by

20 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org * Meet the Methow, Mazama, and More in the brand new Green Trails Map 51SX

Green Trails Maps show the most current trail, road, and access information to national forests, national parks, state and local parks and other public lands, and are favored by hikers, climbers, cross-country skiers, horseback riders, hunters, anglers, mountain biker riders and search and rescue groups and recommended by the most venerable and respected climbing guides. Southwest connections Building More Than Trails n spring, there are few places more How WTA and our partners are shaping idyllic than the Columbia River the future of the Columbia River Gorge. Gorge. The river rolls by beneath wildflower-dotted mountains that By Anna Roth promise adventure, their broad slopes and folded valleys beckoning hikers. It seems like you could wander into those hills and emerge days later and miles away from where you started, yet still in the same landscape. And to some extent, you can. There are hundreds of miles of trail in the Columbia River Gorge, and whether you want a day hike or a dayslong ramble, there’s something here for you. But the sheer existence of these trails shouldn’t be taken for granted. It’s thanks to years of efforts by individuals, organizations and agencies that these trails are here to be enjoyed.

Making connections For more than 25 years, WTA has been one of the key players in the Columbia River Gorge, connecting people to the trails they love. WTA’s first trails advocate here was Susan Saul. She was an early member of WTA’s board, but she’d been speaking up for trails well before that. In fact, she was instrumental in getting Mount St. Helens protected as a national monument in 1982. Because of her experience in protecting land, Susan was a key advisor to Nancy Russell of Friends of the Columbia Gorge when Nancy was working on establishing the Gorge as a national scenic area. That bill went through in 1986; the improvement of

the area’s trail system would follow. Trimpe Ken by photo courtesy Freepik, Illustration 22 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org By 1993, Susan had joined WTA’s board, The Gorge offers hikers miles Trails Conference. I was supposed to connect and in 2006 she and WTA Executive Director of adventurous hiking thanks with some potential partners there. It’s kind to its extensive trail network, Elizabeth Lunney decided that a dedicated of a funny story how I met them: including the unique Beacon staff person in Southwest Washington Rock State Park. A few of us went salsa dancing one evening, could help unite user groups to create a and Renee Tkach from Friends of the strong voice for local trails. Kindra Ramos, Columbia Gorge and Dana Hendricks from director of communication and outreach, the Pacific Crest Trail Association were in the remembers what else influenced the group.” decision. WTA has worked with both organizations “We’d always had strong advocates and ever since, from laying out potential trail volunteers there,” Kindra said. “As we were As we were routes to co-teaching at Trail Skills College. working toward strengthening our efforts working toward This annual event is hosted by PCTA and across the state, Southwest Washington felt offers trail maintenance skills courses taught like the right place to invest.” “strengthening by WTA, PCTA and Trailkeepers of Oregon Susan and Elizabeth developed the our efforts (TKO), another organization Ryan was asked southwest regional manager position, to make contact with early on. which was tasked in part with building across the state, “Elizabeth told me making a connection with relationships with land managers and other Southwest TKO was really important,” Ryan said. “It stewardship organizations in Washington was built into my work plan that first year to and Oregon. In the fall of 2008, WTA hired Washington felt be on their board, but I wound up serving for Ryan Ojerio. He is still with us today. like the right 2 years.” “One of the first things I did in the new job TKO had a budding volunteer trail was attend that year’s Washington State place to invest. maintenance program in 2008 and hoped

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 23 to develop it further. They asked Ryan for advice. Part of WTA’s success came from setting clear expectations of our crew leaders, so Ryan took WTA’s crew leader manual and adapted it for the TKO model. TKO is still a strong partner of WTA’s. In fact, some of our crew leaders also volunteer with TKO.

Planning for the future WTA’s partnerships with TKO and PCTA mean we have a big volunteer base to draw on when it’s time to put tools in the dirt. But sustainable trails start well before the first work party. A healthy trail network begins by laying out a sustainable route that will stand the test of time. WTA has long focused on creating sustainable trails; our work on the Coyote Wall and Catherine Creek Recreation Plan illustrates that dedication. In the late 1980s, the U.S. Forest Service was planning how to manage this extremely popular, but largely unregulated, area. Susan Saul attended public meetings, ensuring that hiker voices were considered as the Forest Service thought about how to develop a trail system there. The trails plan that came out of that process makes the area a hiker’s delight, one that’s extremely popular in the spring. In fact, work in this area continues to this day in order to meet the need of the thousands of hikers who flock there each year. This summer, WTA is hosting

Photo by Matt Reeder, Claudio Berstein, WTA staff, Harold Rex staff, WTA Claudio Berstein, Matt Reeder, by Photo a volunteer vacation at Catherine Creek, during which

24 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Trails in the Gorge we’ll build a bridge and cut new trail to better a hiker magnet in spring when the balsamroot have something to accommodate the increased visitation. blooms. To address the traffic concerns, Skamania fascinate hikers year County, along with our partners at Friends of round. We’ve collaborated in making other areas the Columbia Gorge, created the Dog Mountain sustainable too. Early on, Ryan helped make one shuttle. This service utilizes the already-existing of the Gorge’s most popular routes — the Cape West End Transit bus and helps hikers connect Horn Trail — a reality. with this popular location while lowering their Join WTA at our “Cape Horn was a user trail that Cape Horn impact. Ryan has thought about how this might hiker potluck! Conservancy was considering adopting, and they expand to other trailheads in the future. asked for our support,” Ryan said. We’ll talk about “We should be thinking long term about trailhead sustainable Support them we did. WTA played a big part in development in such a way as to accommodate recreation in the helping the Forest Service and the conservancy bus transit,” he said. Gorge, WTA’s Trails craft the implementation plan that came after the Rebooted campaign recreation plan was adopted. Once the trail was A trail-centric plan and how we can Thanks to our partnerships, a dayslong, car- work with the adopted and integrated into the recreation plan, Forest Service to WTA did a lot of the maintenance to make the trail free wander through the Columbia Gorge hills craft a sustainable sustainable. could become a reality. WTA and our partners have collaborated for years toward a grand, stewardship and “We did a ton of work on rerouting,” Ryan said. recreation plan. trail-centric scheme: the Gorge Towns to Trails “We also got a National Forest Foundation grant to Join us June 12 in Initiative, spearheaded by Friends of the build a bridge, and we did maintenance and joint Stevenson. wta.org/ Columbia Gorge. sw-hiker-potluck. work parties with the Cape Horn Conservancy as they were getting their program going.” The vision is for a destination trekking network encircling the Columbia Gorge, connecting These days, the Cape Horn Trail is one of the communities, rural areas and wilderness trails. most popular in the Gorge. The loop skirts a Included in that vision is the creation of new waterfall and passes several dramatic viewpoints. trails beyond heavily impacted visitor areas Peregrine falcons that nest on the cliffs require and a car-free transportation system to Gorge the Forest Service to close a section of the loop trailheads. Renee Tkach notes that the best path during their nesting season, but the section that to success is through collaboration. is open year round is still an excellent out-and- back hike. “We’ve learned that progress isn’t just about buying lands and building new trails. It’s about Popular trails, full trailheads collaboration, a space for commonality and As interest in getting outside increases and creating a vision that communities want to get funding decreases, it’s important to consider how behind and champion. Gorge Towns to Trails has hikers get to the trails that connect them with the proven to be a project that has brought all of these landscape. Some of Washington’s most popular opportunities together and has strengthened our trails lie along the Gorge’s Highway 14. That conservation efforts and gains in the region.” means full (or overflowing) parking lots, and on The last 25 years prove that WTA and our partners narrow Highway 14, this can affect through traffic. can create the future we want in the Gorge. The One parking area that is particularly difficult for key is connecting passionate hikers with each the Forest Service to manage is Dog Mountain, other and the trails they love.

Be a WTA ambassador Passionate about trails? Use that energy to build a movement of hikers. Apply at wta.org/ambassador

We are looking for people from the Olympic Peninsula, central Cascades, Okanogan County, Pierce County, Yakima, Wenatchee and Olympia. Photo by Amanda Edgar Amanda by Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 25 Snowshoers explore near Mount Baker during an Outdoor Asian trip, one of many excursions the group has organized.

Community &Healing Outdoor Asian has helped me connect to nature, my family and my culture | By Joan Hong Photo by Britt Lê by Photo 26 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org y connection with the outdoors, like my connection As a Korean- Joan (“joanne” not “jone,” she/her) is a with many other first-generation Korean-American from Mfacets of life, began with food. My American, I Bellevue who grew up in Washington. grandma and I spent hours picking She is a founding member of Outdoor basketfuls of blackberries and struggled to Asian, an organizer for Environmental armloads of fresh, fuzzy, green fern “ Professionals of Color and a passionate shoots. We ate blackberries until reconcile my advocate for making the outdoors our fingers were purple. We soaked inclusive and accessible for all. Her goal the ferns in cold water to de-fuzz heritage with is to ensure that the voices of people of before drying them for banchan color are included in the outdoor and and bibimbap. the life I lived environmental narratives. She loves I remember the smell of rice and in America. camping, backpacking and hiking, but sesame oil as my mom spent — JOAN HONG also loves lazy weekends playing board hours preparing California rolls games and baking cakes. Find her online for picnics at Mount Rainier or at instagram.com/ joannenotjown. Hurricane Ridge. And I can’t count how many family reunion barbecues we had at local parks, with kalbi and mackerel sizzling on the grill. For a young me, the outdoors were equivalent to amazing food. And, honestly, that’s half the reason I still love going outdoors! My family also spent many weekends snowboarding at The Summit and camping at state parks like Lake Chelan and Fort Flagler. We dug clams on dark, frosty mornings and even went fishing once. My fondest childhood memories were made in the sun and under the clouds. But despite all of the time I spent outdoors, I never considered myself outdoorsy. By unspoken definition, being outdoorsy meant weeklong backpacking trips, bike trips on Highway 202, hunting trips in Eastern Washington and summiting Mount Rainier. That definitely wasn’t me. I know better now, and a lot of my work focuses on shifting the perspective of what it means to be outdoors. But back when I wanted to dive deeper into outdoor recreation and sports, a lack of institutional knowledge, resources and community kept me from pursuing those interests until I was in college — and even then it wasn’t without challenges. During my sophomore year of college, I went to REI with my parents. We filled a brand-new backpack with a sleeping bag liner, mosquito net, headlamp, wool socks, clothing and other miscellaneous gizmos and gadgets needed to study abroad in the forests of Costa Rica. Five hundred dollars on top of thousands of dollars in tuition. I had no idea how any of this gear worked, and my parents had no idea what any of the gear even was. We relied entirely on the sales staff About Outdoor Asian to outfit me. Outdoor Asian is a nonprofit organization Because my parents owned a small gas station for the majority of my creating a diverse and inclusive community life, I have always calculated purchases in candy bars. So that day, of Asian and Pacific Islanders (API) in when my dad jokingly asked me his usual, “How many candy bars did the outdoors. We engage communities, I have to sell to afford to pay for this?” I had already done the math. At empower API leaders and elevate the stories an average of 10 cents in revenue from a single Hershey’s bar, my dad and histories of our people. Join us around had to sell 5,000 candy bars just to afford this 1-hour shopping trip. the campfire as we make the outdoors To my parents, the new experience of studying abroad was something more inclusive for all. outdoorasian.com; they were willing and able to support — but not every family has the instagram.com/outdoorasian same capacity. I’m eternally grateful for the opportunities afforded me because my parents worked 7 days a week, 12 hours a day, to do so.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 27 Outdoor Asian gathered at Seward Park in Seattleto learn about owls with Seward Park Audubon Center.

This experience, and many others like it, is why I joined at a new elementary school. I can still feel the hot tears and Outdoor Asian, an organization dedicated to creating a diverse the confused shame I experienced when a fellow classmate and inclusive community of Asian and Pacific Islanders in the jokingly used her fingers to pull back the corners of her eyes to outdoors. By growing a network that can share knowledge, call me “Hong Kong Ching Chang Chong.” It was the first time history, culture and experiences, Outdoor Asian is uplifting I felt like an outsider, and there was no one who empathized Asian and Pacific Islander communities. The work I do honors because there was no one who looked like me — none of the my parents by making it easier for families to enjoy the students, none of the teachers. I had never felt so incredibly, outdoors together. fundamentally alone. That I was somehow different from Outdoor Asian means so many different things to so many everyone else was a realization that hit hard. For over a decade, different people, and it has given me the opportunity to that realization triggered deep feelings of shame and confusion change the perception that walking through a park, having a over the Korean part of my Korean-American identity. barbecue and foraging aren’t “outdoorsy.” It’s an incredibly That incident was the turning point in my life. I started to important space for me because it brings together a community question who I was and what was “normal.” I resented my that understands, accepts and empathizes with my immense parents for being “too Korean.” I made jokes at my own expense struggle to come to terms with my identity. to diminish the part of me that was Korean, and highlight that I In Korean urban legend there are spirits called the “dalgyal was American, as if the two were exclusive. gwishin,” or egg ghosts, that endlessly roam remote forests and But over the years, I built healthy relationships with other mountains. The story is that they are the ghosts of those who people of color who identified with my struggle, and grew have passed away without family or friends to remember them. comfortable in my own skin. That shame I felt so deeply as As time passes, they slowly begin to lose their identity and what a child turned into anger. Anger when two bearded men in makes them individuals. They’re called egg ghosts because their faces are as featureless and smooth as an egg. downtown Bellingham shouted “konichiwa” at me as I walked down the street. Anger when a group of young hikers told me There were many times in my life when I felt I was becoming to go back to my country. (Hi, I was born in Texas.) Anger when a faceless dalgyal gwishin, mindlessly living without a sense a former colleague asked me to play the “what Asian are they” of identity. As a Korean-American, I struggled to reconcile my game. The color of my skin isn’t for the amusement of others. heritage with the life I lived in America. My standing where I am today is a testament to the resilience of My identity crisis began at the age of 6, during my first week my parents. They tirelessly worked to provide opportunities for Photo by Dominic Arenas, National Audubon Society Audubon National Dominic Arenas, by Photo

28 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Outdoor Asian brings Asian and Pacific Islander “Americans outdoors, but THANK YOU TO OUR even more than that, it’s a CORPORATE PARTNERS space to find respite.

RAINIER | $25,000+

their three daughters that they never could have imagined for themselves growing up in post-war Korea. My experience isn’t unique — I have met countless Asian and Pacific Islander Americans who have had a similar experience with identity. Outdoor Asian brings Asians and Pacific Islanders outdoors, but even more than that, it’s a space for those who identify as Asian or Pacific Islander to find respite. My first time OLYMPIC | $10,000–$24,999 meeting with Outdoor Asian, our group shed tears over our historical connection to the outdoors. For us, the outdoors are a place of healing and a place of trauma. It’s how we connect to our families, our ancestors and our culture. Beyond the outdoors, Outdoor Asian is a space where our community can connect over the shocked realization that dishwashers, in fact, clean your dishes and aren’t just fancy drying racks. We can nod our heads in agreement about how we shamelessly slurp our noodles in public, and laugh about how we gleefully bring uncut kimbap on flights, even though it looks like stacks of TNT going through TSA and smells like a kimchi refrigerator. Many members of Outdoor Asian today are forging our CASCADE | $2,500–$9,999 own paths into the outdoors. We’re visiting Mount Rainier, snowshoeing, climbing and backpacking — often for the first time. We’re learning about the ecology of old-growth forests and about human impact on our natural spaces. We’re seeing wildlife we’ve never seen before in our backyards, and experiencing the outdoors with all of our senses. We’re discovering where to bring our friends and families to play outside, and we’re sharing camp recipes overflowing with fragrant spices that remind us of home. We’re sharing our tables, our stories, our memories and traumas. Over half of the world’s population is Asian or Pacific Islander and while the diversity even among ourselves is vast, we share aspects of culture that resonate deeply. I stand where I am today because my parents fought tooth and nail to lift me to this spot. Lately, they’ve been getting MATCHING GIFT CORPORATIONS | $5,000+ outdoors, and I’ve had the joy of sharing what I’ve learned with them, buying hiking boots and trekking poles for them, Apple • Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation • Boeing • and adventuring together. I share which plants are edible, Google • Microsoft where to find different wildlife and the best places to hike during each season — all things I learned wandering the pathways they helped to pave. It sounds cheesy, but we’ve come full circle — now I’m working to provide opportunities Find out if your company matches charitable gifts. for them. Thanks to them, I get to grow my knowledge and Your donation could go twice as far! To learn more share it with them and with my friends in Outdoor Asian — about supporting WTA’s work, call us at 206-508-6846. all within a community that itself is constantly teaching and learning and evolving.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 29 Jenny Schmitz explores as many trails as she can using her wheelchair. She’s found techniques to discover trails that are most likely to be passable for her.

More resources and hikes at wta.org/ wheeling

Wheeling in the Wild Resources How I kept hiking, backpacking and exploring the wild places Outdoors for All I love, with the assistance of a wheelchair. By Jenny Schmitz Offers all-terrain wheelchair rentals, as well as many other hen I first moved to Seattle in 2002,my husband and I were elated services. Based in Seattle’s by the mountains and wilderness to explore. Within a few months, Magnuson Park. however, my 9-year coexistence with a neurodegenerative disease (MS) outdoorsforall.org changed from pesky diagnosis to traumatic reality, and I progressed Wthrough a parade of assistive devices: cane, crutch, two crutches, wheelchair. Hiking the Freedom Chair Wonderland Trail moved from goal to dream. A self-propelled manual chair with levers, third wheel and big tires. With the loss of mobility comes the loss of identity. How do you answer the question, “Do Offers a 30-day money-back trial you like to backpack?” if your legs no longer work? for riders who wish to purchase a chair. gogrit.us Eventually, I came to terms with my new reality and set about creating an identity that incorporated my lifelong love of wilderness, tempered by realism. As walking became TrailRider more difficult, I learned to do everything sitting down. Eventually, I figured out how to A rickshaw on two wheels that is apply this to hiking as well, starting with a change in perspective: the wheelchair as an propelled by one runner in front assistive device rather than as a symbol of disability. and one behind. The main prohibitive factor was the front caster wheels. They would get stuck on every bcmos.org/trailrider.html rock or root and become mired in the soft surfaces of sand, dirt, mud, grass and gravel. Wheelchair Wandering For me, the problem was finally solved with a FreeWheel — a third wheel that sticks out The author’s blog, where she in front of the wheelchair, lifting the casters off of the ground. With the addition of this shares her own stories of accessory, I was able to race down the cobblestones of Italy and over the volcanic ash exploring outdoors via trails of Iceland. wheelchair. wheelchairwandering. I continued searching for the ultimate trail wheelchair. I considered several options, but blogspot.com they were too expensive or otherwise inappropriate for me. My trail chair of choice is currently the GRIT Freedom Chair, an all-terrain wheelchair complete with a third wheel,

thick and knobby mountain-bike tires and levers for efficient propulsion. Bashor. Ted by Photos

30 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org The second obstacle is the trails. Most trails are simply not appropriate for wheelchairs. With mountain-bike tires, I am able to go beyond paved ADA-accessible trails. With the third wheel, I can manage many rocks, roots and soft surfaces. With push levers, I can go significant distances. With strong arms and assistance from an enthusiastic, able-bodied husband, I can even manage short ups and downs. However, I can’t do anything about trails that are narrow or have steps. Also, Washington’s mountainous geography creates many off-limits areas for most of us in wheelchairs. In addition, continuous rocks or roots usually mean an unenjoyable experience. Adventurous, physically fit youth may thrill at the challenge of tackling less wheelchair-friendly trails, but I have grown weary of turning back when the trail becomes impassable. The best way to avoid these obstacles seems to be the cautious approach of choosing an appropriate trail through recommendations. When I first started wheelchair hiking, I searched for information on wheelchair trails. I found what seemed to be the perfect book, entitled “Accessible Trails in Washington’s Backcountry” (written by WTA and published by Mountaineers Jenny’s favorite hikes Books). I was elated … almost. The book was published in for wheelchairs 1995 and hasn’t been updated since. So I found my own trails at the intersection of and started a blog, where I described my hikes and compiled • Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually wilderness (rather than my own lists. The trails were hit-and-miss — often selected Wildlife Refuge between simply due to location or on the mistaken assumption that trails around city parks or nature Tacoma and Olympia centers) and accessibility designated as “family friendly” would be appropriate. I saw a • Rainy Lake in the North lot of natural beauty. But I also had to turn around more often (as indicated by a source or Cascades (hilly) recommendation). than I wanted. • Gold Creek Pond near Although the majority of trails officially designated as Last fall, I followed up Snoqualmie Summit on a friend’s tip about accessible seem to be short, paved interpretive paths, there are • Tradition Lake on Tiger the trail to San Josef Bay a few with more distance and interest. In addition, based on Mountain my own experience, the following non-ADA-accessible trails are in Cape Scott Provincial • Palouse to Cascades State often appropriate for wheelchairs: Park, on the Northwest corner of Vancouver Park Trail starting at the • Rails-to-Trails paths: These trails were created from former Snoqualmie Summit and Island. Signs advertise railroad corridors, so the slopes are gentle and gradual. Since traveling west through the the well-maintained they were intended as multiuse trails, they are wide enough for train tunnels gravel trail as “wheelchair wheelchairs and free of steps. Most are surfaced with pavement accessible with assistance” Note: These trails are not ADA accessible, or packed gravel, with only the occasional root. but are trails Jenny has enjoyed in her (assistance because of the wheelchair. • Fire roads, jeep trails and double-track mountain bike rolling hills). trails: These options are wide enough for wheelchairs and free From the parking lot, I of steps. They may, however, have rocks and roots, and the hiked through an enchanting rainforest with big, mossy trees. elevation change depends on the location. After 1.5 miles, the trail came to San Josef Bay, where several • Trails in a national wildlife refuge: For some reason, I have campsites offered views of the stunning beach and bay. In found the paths in wildlife refuges to work well for wheelchairs, full disclosure, the campground at the end is difficult for since they are rather flat, wide and well-maintained. This may wheelchair users — the sandy ground and overgrown paths are not always be true, but it’s a good bet. challenging, there is no water source and the almost-accessible For the most certainty, personal recommendations are the outhouse sits on top of a 4-inch platform. best. On my blog (wheelchairwandering.blogspot.com), I have Fortunately, with serious assistance, I was able to overcome all described my own trials with trails, and I have also included obstacles. At low tide, a hike on the beach revealed sea stacks some recommendations from others. that seemed like exotic museum exhibits. Carrying day packs My own years of experience with trial-and-error trail selection on the back of my wheelchair, while my husband sported a led to serious contemplation about what makes a good path huge backpack of his own, I was able to experience 3 days for wheelchairs. I am excited about expanding my use of trail- of amazing views, hiking and camping. Finally, despite legs finding resources and narrowing my selection of wheelchair- that don’t work, I can answer that pesky question: Do you like appropriate trails. My plan is to concentrate on those trails backpacking? Hell, yes!

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 31 The Pasayten features endless options for loops — you just need a map to get started creating your very own.

Set your intentions and get creative How to Craft Your Before you can focus on the specific details of your self-created loop, you have to be able to see the bigger picture. This comes Own Loop Hike from setting your hiking intentions. Do you want to go on a day hike, an overnight trip or a multi-night backpacking adventure? By Lindsay Leffelman Which region are you most interested in visiting? What type of scenery are you hoping to see? rom Maple Pass in the North Cascades to High Once you have a purpose in mind and have narrowed down Divide on the Olympic Peninsula, loop hikes are the locale, you are ready to get creative. Using paper or digital popular among day hikers and backpackers alike — maps, start mentally exploring the trails in your desired area. and for good reason! On a loop, every step forward A large-scale map of the forest, national park or recreation area Foffers a new view to appreciate. You can experience something is a great starting point. Begin by looking for areas that have different and exciting for the entire trip; there’s no long slog some intersecting trails; you’ll have the best chance of creating retracing your steps at the end of the day. Loops also mean you a viable loop in a location with trails that already interconnect. don’t need to arrange a car shuttle on longer trips. With so many Consider overall distance, elevation gain and landscape perks, it’s easy to see why some of the most beloved trails in features as you begin to piece together a potential route. Washington are loops. You will likely need to think beyond the circle as you create One more advantage of loop hiking: You can let your your route, too. When most people hear the word “loop,” they imagination run wild if you are up for the challenge of creating immediately envision a circle, but loop hikes can take on many your own loop. By connecting existing trails, incorporating a shapes. As you are looking at maps, don’t expect a perfectly bit of (responsible) off-trail travel or adding in a short jaunt circular path to jump out at you. Zigzags, crisscrosses, and on forest roads, you can create a one-of-kind loop just for twists and turns are par for the course when solving the loop- you. Developing your own loop requires some out-of-the-box hike puzzle. thinking, a hefty dose of research and a bit of an adventurous spirit. The tips below will help guide you as you plan your self- From here, a more detailed map, like those produced by

created loop hike. Green Trails Maps, will be needed to hash out all the details of Cannon Clyde by Photo

32 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org your route. While it is certainly possible to assemble a loop hike entirely from existing 4 trails, there are times when you need to follow 5 a less conventional approach. Forest roads may not make for exhilarating hiking, but they can help you connect nearby trails. If you have the navigational skills to take on 3 some cross-country travel, going off-trail can be a practical way to link trails together. (But keep in mind regulations and Leave No Trace principles.) Some innovative thinking is all it takes to construct a loop of your own design. Do your research Once you have a solid idea of the route you would like to follow, it’s time to get down to the nitty-gritty details. Start by listing the individual trails that make up your loop, and 1 research each segment. Take time to find out what trail conditions are like, what permits (if any) are needed, potential water sources and campsites, and land use regulations, such as camping or off-trail travel restrictions. If any 2 sections of your loop happen to be on forest roads, make sure to research road conditions and possible closures that could impact your trip. WTA’s hiking guide and trip reports are great places to start compiling this type of data. Don’t forget to check out the land manager’s website for information, too. A phone call be sure to respect the land and take or visit to the nearest ranger station is also a safety precautions. For off-trail travel, good idea. navigation is key. Make sure you have Spend time exploring your the map-and-compass skills necessary As you are conducting your research, it is options on a map to find the to find your way without a clear-cut path also worth it to spend some time developing a loop trip that fits you need. or signs to follow. Be a good steward of bail-out plan. If something goes wrong on trail This one map offers a range the land by walking on the most durable — the path becomes impassable, the weather of hikes in the Horseshoe surface you can and spreading out turns or you become injured — make sure Basin area. from the rest of your party so multiple you’ve thought about options for getting out footsteps aren’t trampling the same quickly. On a day hike, this could simply mean 1. This loop is 11 miles on trail, plants. retracing your steps instead of completing the with road walk (2) to connect full loop. On longer backpacking excursions, back to the trailhead. On forest roads, it’s important to stay it might mean researching other intersecting 3. This lollipop loop, which alert and be visible to others. You’ll likely trails that could get you to help faster than starts at the Long Swamp hear tires crunching on gravel before backtracking or finishing the loop. The more Campground, covers just the driver notices you, so be proactive you know ahead of time, the more relaxed and under 22 miles and likely in ensuring you are out of harm’s way. confident you’ll feel heading into your trip. requires a bit of careful Wear a bright hat or bandanna, move navigation. far to the side when cars approach, and Hit the trail make eye contact with the driver. Don’t After all your research is complete, it’s time 4. This loop is also about be surprised if passing motorists stop to for the best part of creating your own loop 22 miles, and follows some make sure you’re okay; it’s pretty rare to — hiking it! As always, make sure you have lesser-used trails. A road walk see hikers on the road. packed the Ten Essentials, follow the standard is required at the end. After you’ve completed your one-of-a- rules of trail etiquette and adhere to Leave No 5. By using the next map, it’s kind loop, share the experience with Trace principles. easy to build loops that could others. Post a trip report to WTA’s If you created your loop to include portions allow a few days to a couple website, and then start planning your of cross-country travel or forest road walking, weeks worth of exploring. next loop hiking adventure!

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 33 If you’re lucky enough to spot a bear on trail, you’re unlikely to have much trouble motivating your little hiker. For the rest of the time, some simple techniques can go a long way.

Here’s what our time on trail with kiddos has taught us about 7 Tips for Joyful making the trek a little more joyful. Start small Hiking with Kids Nothing ruins an activity like having the first one be a slog. Our family starts every season with a trip shorter than 2 miles — just Lessons from a parent who’s been there. to make sure the experience is happy and rewarding. Make early By Julie Popper season (and early in kids’ careers!) experiences a breeze. Prepare with reasonable expectations “I’m tiiiiiired.” We used to hold back on honestly telling our kid how far we My partner and I give each other that knowing look. We beep were going. We found that to be a double-edged sword — he didn’t complain on the way there but boy did he complain on the car again to make sure it’s locked and press on to the second the trip out. Now, we say clearly, “We are hiking 5 miles, and 10 feet of the trail — second of many. it will take probably about 4 hours. We’ll stop for lunch so the “Are we there yet?” hike will feel shorter than your day at school.” We have all heard it. We know it well. We grown-ups have We also like to remind kids that their bodies resist at the grandiose plans of big hikes and quiet nights under the stars; beginning. “Your body is telling you that it liked sitting in our kiddos imagine walking 5 feet from the trailhead, collecting the car more — but you need to tell it who is in charge. Push a leaf and a pine cone, and returning to the car. Giving in through, and once it gets the message that we’re doing this, it’ll isn’t an option — we just drove 2 hours to get here, risking car work with you to make this fun.” sickness and our car’s suspension. We must proceed. Make it relatable Besides, we never remember the whining. We remember the You spend time with your kiddos romping about the local park enchanting forests, the boundless views, the chilly dips in the or neighborhood — why not break it down that way? “We’re water and the together time. Still, it can make a 5-mile trip seem going to walk about the distance from our house to the park,

like it was halfway around the globe when a kiddo is reluctant. and then we’ll take a break.” Ben Popper by Photos

34 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Bribery will get you everywhere For us, bribery comes in two forms — on the trail and at the destination. We started early with a “one M&M per switchback” rule that got us pretty far. (And our kid would have a tummy full of chocolate on, say, the Kelly Butte Trail.) Later we would say every 30 minutes it was snack time. And we’d always have a destination treat — a sweet at camp or on the way home.

Distract, distract, distract When you’re not thinking about it, the miles just roll on by. So, why not focus on something other than the steps? Many of us start out on distraction by talking about nature — naming trees, finding bugs, pointing out cool mushrooms. I was out with our Scout troop one day on what became a whine-fest and resorted to our first-aid and Ten Essentials supplies to keep the Scouts motivated — who knew a SAM splint, a compass and a few pieces of duct tape could keep kids moving along? We also like to tell stories in our family. Four years ago our kiddo made up a story about owning his own railroad; today the story is still gaining details as he builds new lines, expands his empire and overcomes obstacles on his railroad. With his imagination and his story, his feet keep moving forward.

Remind them what accomplishment feels like Remember that time you hiked all the way to the top, all by yourself? Remember how proud you felt? Let’s do that again! (Also, this means you have to make a BIG DEAL out of the accomplishments that happen — laying it on thick will seem totally reasonable to the littles.)

Know they can handle it It seems so easy — give in to the request to carry them, or give them a piggyback ride, or take their pack. Once you do this, it’s nearly impossible to undo. With most kids, your persistence now will cut down on future requests. You know they can do it — don’t let them sell themselves short!

Julie Popper has 25 years of backpacking experience and is a Scout leader, WTA green hat trail volunteer and known to say things like, “Can anyone name this plant?” and “Isn’t this a beautiful trail?”

YOUTH Upcoming dates: June 1: FAMILY Puget Park (Seattle) Sept. 7: WORK PARTIES Hood Canal Ranger District WTA’s Puget Sound-area youth and (location TBD) family work parties are for youth ages 10 and up and their friends and families. Join us from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sign up at wta.org/volunteer. No experience necessary.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 35 Mom on an adventure Linda Roe carried this photo of her mom with her on many hikes as a way to remember her.

36 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Mt. Rainier Linda visited Mount Rainier as a way to honor her mother and remember some of her favorite memories.

Miles forMemories Hiking to honor a loved one | By Cassandra Overby

or many outdoor enthusiasts, hiking is a way It was in grad school that Linda’s mom met her dad. to remember that we’re part of something Eventually, the couple made their way to Washington, bigger. Among the trees, rivers and wild creatures, where they raised Linda and her siblings. The family spent we recalibrate and remember our place in the natural lots of time outside. Most of Linda’s favorite childhood circle of life. It’s an experience that can make us feel memories involve exploring the great outdoors with her completely alive — and it’s also the perfect opportunity mom. to honor a loved one who has died. “She was a real birder,” Linda said. “She loved the birds A memorial hiking season and the flowers. We’d go camping and she’d always have this big bag of all the guidebooks and binoculars. She was Linda Roe was cleaning out her recently deceased mother’s a Girl Scout leader and she’d take us all out camping and belongings in the spring of 2016 when she came across backpacking.” the well-worn leather hiking hat that had been one of her mother’s most treasured possessions. Along with the hat Through it all, Linda’s mom sported her favorite hiking hat. was a striking photo of Linda’s mom in her younger days, Once Linda found it — and the photo — an idea started to long before she was a wife or mother, on top of Longs Peak form, one that would celebrate Linda’s favorite memories in Colorado. To Linda, that photo captured the essence of of her mom, rather than dwelling on the end of her life. her mother, whose first love was always the mountains. “I wanted to honor her memory,” Linda said. “I wanted “She grew up in Wisconsin,” Linda said. “Her dad liked to to remember her out hiking and wearing the hat, not her hunt, and they took a trip out to the Northwest when she last 4 years. I went down and got the picture laminated was a young teenager. She fell in love with the mountains and pinned it on the hat. That year I hiked with her hat on out here. She went to college in Wisconsin, but when she all summer long. And I dedicated my Hike-a-Thon to her graduated and started looking for grad schools, she looked memory.” at the map and applied to the ones near mountains. She As Linda hiked, she thought about her mom and their ended up in Boulder, Colorado, and started hiking there.” favorite memories together.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 37 Honor your loved one with a memorial bench Rules and etiquette for Many city, county, state and national parks have programs where you can scattering your loved purchase a memorial bench, sometimes on a trail and oftentimes with a one’s ashes plaque, to honor a loved one. If you’d like to purchase a memorial bench, contact the government office or organization that owns the land you’d Scattering your loved one’s like the bench on. Most benches cost between $1,500 and $2,500. Note: ashes in nature — or even on No memorial plaques or structures are allowed on national forests or a memorial hike — can be a in wilderness areas but the U.S. Forest Service does have a plant-a-tree meaningful experience. Here’s program. For more information, see www.fs.fed.us/faq/#question8. what you need to know.

1. Always ask permission, but generally you can scatter ashes on the following: • Private land: With permission Join us for from the land owner Hike-a-Thon • State trust uplands: With permission from the regional Every summer, hikers manager like Linda become • Public waterways under state hiking champions control (including Puget Sound, by participating in Strait of Juan de Fuca, lakes, Hike-a-Thon! Make rivers and streams) your miles count and • Ferries (water scattering): champion our trails Allowed; must book at least and public lands. 5 days in advance via an Hike-a-Thon starts on online form. More info: July 1; learn more at wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/infodesk/ wta.org/hikeathon. faq/specialoccasions Hike-a-thon • Pacific Ocean (at least 3 miles from shore): Allowed but must report within 30 days. More info: “I remembered her and the times we were about lost it,” Linda said. epa.gov/ocean-dumping/ out in the woods and out at Mount Rainier, As difficult as it was to return to Mount burial-sea the times we were just hiking or her telling Rainier without her mother, it’s an • National parks: With permission me all about the flowers,” Linda said. experience that Linda was ultimately from the chief park ranger Often as Linda hiked, people asked about grateful for. • National forests: Not allowed the photo on the hat. It was a chance for “The Mount Rainier hike was really Linda to share a little about the woman special,” she said. “Probably of all of the 2. Make sure your gathering who’d meant so much to her — even if she hikes I did wearing the hat with her on it, doesn’t block or impede the got a little choked up. area for others. that was probably the most healing.” “For the most part, I was able to hold it Looking back on the 2016 hiking season, 3. Stand upwind. together,” she said. the healing it brought is a big reason Linda Toward the end of summer, Linda was considers her hikes to honor her mom a 4. Don’t leave ashes in a pile that success. people can recognize. Scatter joined by her brother for a memorial hike at them widely so they blend into Mount Rainier. The hike was extra special “It was a good thing to do,” she said. “It the landscape. because of how much their mom had made me feel better and get through some loved Mount Rainier and how many happy of the grief.” 5. Scatter only the contents of memories they’d made there as a family. the urn. There’s usually a second An annual memorial hike Because Mount Rainier held such identification label or a numbered Each year on Father’s Day, Judy Sea does a meaning, it was more emotionally difficult metal disc inside the container, solo hike to honor her dad. It’s a tradition than the other hikes. so be sure to remove this and she started about 10 years ago, when she dispose of it separately, along “One of the rangers came by and asked could no longer bear a traditional Father’s with the container. me about the picture on my hat and I just Day sans father.

38 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org “Father’s Day is such a big deal if Your own memorial you’ve lost your father,” she said. “It’s hike always really hard for me. I never want to do anything. This is a way to honor As Linda and Judy him. And for me to get out. Otherwise, discovered, hiking to honor I’d just sit at home and think about it.” a loved one can be a healing experience. Here are their Outside is where Judy feels closest to suggestions for crafting your her dad. own memorial hike. “He just loved being outdoors,” Judy said. 1. Choose the right kind of trail. He passed that on to Judy. Linda suggests choosing “I love hiking,” she said. “It’s so a place where you shared peaceful. I’m constantly on the WTA special memories, like Mount app. I probably look at it 12 times a day Rainier for her family. Judy … I’m obsessed. In My Backpack there say the best trail is one that are something like 200 hikes.” you love and find peaceful or your loved one would have Even though she normally hikes all enjoyed. For solitude, choose sorts of trails — and with company a trail that’s either not very — there’s a specific kind of trail popular or hike early or late experience that Judy seeks out for her — sunrise and sunset hikes Father’s Day hikes. are especially great for quiet “I’m an incredible extrovert,” she said. contemplation. “I love talking to everyone on hikes. I always say hi to every other person. 2. Choose your hiking (But on Father’s Day) I pick trails where companions thoughtfully. Photo by Rose Sincioco I won’t see a lot of people. And I go Sometimes the best early.” companion for a memorial hike, especially one in which The quiet solitude allows Judy the you want to process intense space she needs to process the difficult emotions, is yourself. But if emotions that Father’s Day brings up. you don’t want to be alone, “It’s a way for me to just think about choose your companions my dad with no interruptions,” she thoughtfully. Pick someone said. “Laugh. Cry.” you feel comfortable being vulnerable with. It can help Washington As Judy hikes, she often replays her to hike with someone who is favorite memories of her dad. also battling grief. Regardless of who you hike with, Linda “He was a very funny, comical man,” Trails recommends being upfront she said. “The funniest person I’ve with your hiking companions ever known. He had this whole box of about the emotional nature practical jokes. There was a store in of your hike and its effect on downtown Seattle called the Trick and Day you. Let them know if you Puzzle Store and he used to take us need quiet or space. there when we were kids.” August 3 Good memories — and time on trail to 3. Pick the right time for on #watrailsday, think about those memories — have your hike. Take action done wonders for Judy. Because of Although a memorial hike a day to celebrate, hike and hiking, she ends each Father’s Day can be done any time, it’s reaffirm your commitment to feeling much better than when she especially powerful on a trails. started. meaningful day. Memorial Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s “(Hiking) is the best thing I could do on Day, your loved one’s Father’s Day,” she said. “It’s really good birthday, the anniversary of Get involved at for me to get outside. It’s good therapy. their death — all of those are wta.org/watrailsday I feel so good when I come back.” great choices.

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 39 Ras and Kathy Vaughn spent 174 days hiking more than 2,600 miles to make a huge loop through the Pacific Northwest. Connecting the Pacific Northwest A new long-distance trail for the adventurous | By Andrea Laughery

Photos by Ras Vaughn / UltraPedestrian.com. Map by Lisa Holmes.

40 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org ith a thunderstorm threatening, Ras and Kathy Vaughn stared down at 700 feet of crumbling rock. They were on day four of their 2,634-mile thru-hike linking together lesser-known trails to create a Wmassive loop in the Pacific Northwest. Now, they weren’t sure if the route was going to go. Despite an encounter with a large rattlesnake, the pair ultimately scrambled into the canyon and up the other side. It was the first of many trials on their 174-day journey connecting parts of the Idaho Centennial Trail, Oregon Desert Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and Pacific Northwest Trail. They had to contend with fire reroutes, snow, traversing unknown land and stretches without reliable water. The trek was wild and raw, just how they like it. A tenacious attitude and gentle spirit carried the adventurous duo among remote and untouched wilderness throughout Oregon, Washington and Idaho to create a route that they call the UP The UP North Loop was North Loop. created by Team UltraPedestrian, The question marks Ras and Kathy Ras and Kathy got their first taste of thru-hiking almost 20 years Vaughn. ago, when they set off with their 7-year-old daughter on the 93- mile loop around Mount Rainier. A trail runner they encountered provided the first glimpse of how much a human is capable of achieving. It took the two of them many years before they started running longer distances and testing their limits. “We became fascinated with the question marks,” Ras said. While some elite athletes compete for fastest known times and the number of hikers on popular long -distance trails continues to grow, Ras and Kathy took a different path. They set out to create new routes or new variations on classic routes. “The genesis was being able to experience the trail in a unique way. In lesser-known trails there are a lot of question marks,” Ras said. Those question marks and isolated landscapes attracted the explorers to venture deep into the deserts, ancient groves, river valleys and mountains of the Pacific Northwest. “That remote feeling is what attracted me to these lesser-known trails,” Kathy said. “In one stretch of 750 miles we saw maybe three other people. We really felt like we had the entire wilderness to ourselves.” Improvising solutions Ras and Kathy — known more commonly in social circles as Team UltraPedestrian — set out on May 14, 2018, from the small town of Hammett, Idaho, and headed south on the Idaho Centennial Trail. Much of their hike was trial and error, with water sources often dictating their plans. Due to their extensive experience with wilderness navigation and long-distance endurance, they knew how much they could push their bodies, and had lots of tricks for dealing with issues. When the duo first looked at the route on paper, they thought the trails were an interesting way to define the Pacific Northwest. Once they actually hiked the land, the cohesion between geographic features along the journey became obvious. “It gave us this amazing understanding of the inland northwest ...

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 41 Kathy Vaughn hikes near the Owyhee River Managing diabetes in Oregon. The loop included a wide range of on the trail landscapes. On top of the challenges of the UP North Loop, Kathy was managing a recent diagnosis of type 1 diabetes. Ten years after Kathy had 40 percent of her pancreas removed due to a growth, the remainder of her pancreas stopped producing insulin. In 2017, she was diagnosed as a type 1 diabetic. Once diagnosed, she began insulin therapy and continued her hiking adventures. “From the get-go I decided, with the support of my doctor, I was just going to keep living the best I can while I can,” Kathy said. Throughout the remote landscape Kathy and Ras hiked, she stayed calm and in tune with her blood sugar numbers and how she was feeling physically and mentally. She carefully wrapped the insulin in until you actually have that experience of few people do, while marveling at giant bubble wrap, and kept it within essentially hiking that big perimeter and toads, salamanders, porcupines and deer. her extra clothing, deep in her pack, to keep the temperature seeing how it’s all unique but similar and After 5.5 months on the trail, the couple regulated. stays in transition and connected, you feels they have barely scratched the can’t fully comprehend it,” Ras said. “It’s something I manage on surface of what the Northwest has to a daily basis no matter where Kathy and Ras have learned over the offer. I am, but to do it on the trail years that things rarely go according to I just had to look at it in a “If someone wants to hike the exact plan, but they enjoyed the alternatives different way,” Kathy said. “I footsteps of thousands of other people, they improvised along the way. really encourage people to not they can download an app and follow let a health condition dictate “One of the high points for me was the the PCT from Mexico to Canada,” Ras the kind of decisions you make Burgdorf Hot Springs in Idaho. It was said. “But taking on the UP North about what you are capable of a really magical experience,” Kathy Loop requires an amount of research, doing. With flexibility, patience said. “We had been hiking in cold routefinding, navigation and creativity and attention to detail, you can figure out how to do it on the temperatures for days. We had to climb that harkens back to the early days of trail.” about 4,000 feet to get there, and I was thru-hiking.” really struggling mentally. It was so While hiking, Kathy had to Spending 174 days, 22 hours and 25 focus on keeping everything healing, surrounded by the mountains minutes close together could be tough sterile, ration her blood sugar and thick forest.” on a relationship. But Kathy said the test strips and keep Ras in the loop about how she was doing, An inspiration for others adventures she and Ras have together in the wild are the most special times in especially on longer stretches. The Vaughns are excited to see how new their relationship. “Diabetes was one more people take on the loop in their own way. thing to consider, but didn’t Kathy prompts hikers to take challenges “It might surprise people to know that substantially change the and embrace long-distance hikes that fit for most of that time we are just quiet,” experience of our hike. Our their natural abilities, rather than feeling Kathy said. “We are super in tune with whole thing is working as a pressure to take a traditional route. That one another. You become so aware of team. Part of what we enjoy may mean a literal different route, or just your connection to the other person and is seeing how we can take on these adventures as a team,” a different way of hiking. For instance, how important it is to allow one another Ras said. Kathy and Ras enjoyed hiking at night by the space to experience the hike on your headlamp, experiencing the trail in ways own terms.”

42 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Trail mix Gear closet

Headlamps Biolite HeadLamp 330: Biolite’s new headlamp is exceptionally comfortable. The battery pack is on the strap at the back of the head, giving it excellent balance. It stays in place, even for trail running. Features: 330 lumens, adjustable light levels, red-light option, tilt light, charge via micro USB, 2.43 oz. $49.95; bioliteenergy.com. Ledlenser MH3: This headlamp can also be used as a multipurpose light. The light comes off the headstrap easily and you can clip it to yourself or your tent. Features: 200 lumens, adjustable light levels, tilt light, AA battery, More gear 3.25 oz. $30; online at ledlenserusa.com. wta.org/ batteries. Now, gear Inova STS Powerswitch: The Powerswitch has there are some the nifty feature of Pick a Headlamp models on the market with being able to use two What you need to know to find the right one. non-removable rechargeable different power sources, batteries. Whatever option a USB-chargable battery If you’re a hiker, you need some sort of flashlight. It’s you choose, remember a few or three AAA batteries. essential. In fact, it’s one of the Ten Essentials — and for good things. Manufacturers often The light is also easy to reason. For hikers, a headlamp is the logical choice for lighting. list how long a battery will control with a simple You can wear it on your head, so it’s always shining where last, but remember that battery swipe. Features: 280 you’re looking and it leaves your hands free. (Only downside, life can be affected by many lumens, adjustable light levels, tilt light, red-light don’t look directly in the face of your companions. They won’t factors, including temperature. option, 2.3 oz, $60; thank you for that.) Lithium batteries work better niteize.com. If you’re in the market for a new headlamp, here are some than alkaline in cold conditions. Nitecore NU25: This factors you’ll want to consider: Rechargeable batteries also work well in the cold, but can USB-rechargeable Lumens: A lumen indicates how much overall light a headlamp lose charge over time. Always headlamp is popular with WTA staff because produces. In general, a higher number means that you’ll end have a backup. up with more light. However, how well that light is focused also it’s both lightweight and affordable. It’s already plays a big factor. Additionally, a light with a higher lumen will Red light: Some headlamps very light, but if you’re go usually through batteries faster than a light with a lower offer a red-light feature. Red worried about every lumen. Many headlamps offer adjustable illumination levels. light doesn’t make you lose your night vision, which makes it gram, you can swap it out for a lighter strap, Illumination distance: This means how far ahead a flashlight an especially great option for which makes the whole can throw light. If you’re going to be regularly using a light for those hoping to do some night night hiking, you’ll appreciate a longer distance — especially thing 1.17 oz. Features: photography or stargazing. 360 lumen, adjustable if the trail may be faint. If it’s mostly for in-camp use, a shorter light levels, red-light distance should work fine. Tilt: A headlamp that tilts makes it a lot easier to use, option,1.8 oz, $37; nitecorestore.com. Illumination width: Headlamps can throw light in a wide or especially for close in tasks like narrow arc. Adjustable headlamps are particularly useful. cooking or for reading a map or book. —Jessi Loerch Battery: Until recently, most headlamps had removable Dylan by Priddy Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 43 Trail Mix Bookshelf

Finding Community Through Shared Stories The She Explores website and podcast have connected people with each other and nature — and now the book can, too. By Gale Straub

didn’t realize it at the time, but I launched She-Explores.com in 2014 because I craved community. It was lacking while I was living in Boston and working at a venture capital firm. In my spare time, I walked the city with my camera, seeking out lush leaves Iagainst streetlights and the night sky. I sought out the shore and escaped to the mountains and lakes of Maine and New Hampshire. I’ve always had a handful of friends I hold dear, but She Explores opened up my world to the outdoor experiences of others in a more intimate way than Read more I’d previously thought possible. about the book and podcast at I traveled to Seattle for the first time in 2012, when I was still working at wta.org/ that Boston firm. I went with my sister and a friend and we planned a she-explores road trip that started in San Francisco and wound its way up the “Left Coast.” It was November and so cloudy that we couldn’t see Mount Rainier but I loved it anyway. We didn’t know anyone who lived there so we were our own tour guides. A story of a stranger When I returned 2 years later, I’d recently started She Explores. My partner and I spotted two people gardening in Ballard and I did a double- can change what take: I’d featured the woman on the blog. We pulled back around and they showed us around the parks and food of their town, which took on you see for yourself. a new dimension and glowed a little brighter. This small story is just one “ example of the layers of connection that She Explores added to my life. ... My hope is that She Explores started as a blog, but graduated to a podcast in the summer the profiles of 40 of 2016. I love podcasting because it is a means to better understand people. When you hear a person’s story through their own words and creative, curious, in their own voice, it invokes empathy. There have been more than 300 voices on the show in 3 years. While I feel personally connected to these adventurous women people by speaking with them and editing their stories, the process of uploading a MP3 file to an RSS feed is a solitary one. What happens next — each with a totally — the listening — whether on the way to the trailhead or while folding laundry, has the potential to start a chain reaction. unique story — will The young woman listening to the adventurous stories on an episode motivate readers to titled “50 Plus” sees possibility in growing older. The person who was hesitant to solo hike plans a trip to the mountains (and knows what take chances in their precautions to take) when she hears 20 voices sharing their experiences of going it alone on the trail. A story of a stranger can change what you own lives. see for yourself. And by listening to a conversation built on questions, — GALE STRAUB one might be more likely to ask their neighbor, friend or parent more questions, too. I’m thrilled to share She Explores in book form for many reasons, but a big reason is because it’s a physical object a reader can pass around. My hope is that the profiles of 40 creative, curious, adventurous women — each with a totally unique story — will motivate readers to take chances in their own lives. At a minimum, I hope it inspires a step out your front door. And when you’re done, you might hand the book to a friend to give

her that extra push to do the same. Jon Gaffney by Photo

44 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Trail Mix Camera Bag

It can be tough in wet, dusty or sandy areas, but the effort to keep your camera clean will pay off with better photos.

it’s not foolproof, and not every camera has it, which is why Keep it Clean maintenance and upkeep is an essential skill for photography. Equipment How to protect your camera from dust and Your photography setup is only as good as the gear that keeps moisture for sharper photos. By Korey Peterson it clean. Microfiber cloths and a soft brush are a must for cleaning dirty lenses. You’ll want to avoid using paper towels, Camera care as the wood fibers they’re made out of can scratch coatings and There’s nothing more disappointing than trekking out softer elements like filters. Also make sure to only use cleaning into the backcountry and capturing an amazing landscape or solutions that are specifically designed or rated as safe for use on great wildlife shot with your camera — only to upload it to your photography equipment. Another tool you’ll want to carry is an computer and realize the image is covered in spots or smudges air puffer. Some areas of a camera are too sensitive to be touched from debris on your lens or camera’s sensor. If you’ve spent any at all, like the sensor (which we’ll cover next) so you’ll want to — GALE STRAUB time doing outdoor photography, however, you’ll know getting a have a puffer to get rid of annoying dust particles without risking little dirty is part of the process. That’s why it’s important to keep damage to your camera. your camera and lenses clean and well maintained to keep your Sensitive sensor photography looking sharp and spot-free. It’s tempting to wipe off the sensor in your camera when it gets Problems dust or moisture spots on it, but resist this notion at all costs. The most common enemies of your camera are dust and The sensor is the eye of your camera, and it is easily scratched moisture, and a Washington spring can bring both in spades. or damaged, which will create noticeable lines in future photos. These two elements can cause not only spots on your photos Use your air puffer to blow dust out of sensitive areas of your but major problems with your camera if they get into the wrong camera, and if there are spots this can’t take care of, use a

area. Many cameras are weather sealed to prevent damage, but cleaning kit specifically made for cleaning camera sensors. Peterson Korey by Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 45 NW Weekend

TIME SLOWS DOWN

46 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Hike options Hikes come in all lengths at High Camp. Hikers can link together trails to create loop hikes of 2-4 miles to landmarks like Wedding Point and Stegosaurus Rock. For longer hikes, Forest Service trails into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness are easily accessible. Lake Julius and Loch Eileen: 6 miles round trip The climb to Lake Julius, high in the Chiwaukum Mountains, begins with a quick ford or log walk across Roaring Creek. The extra time to reach Loch Eileen is worth the effort. A cairn-punctuated wilderness route leads higher to less frequented Lake Donald. Larch Lake: 10 miles round trip Climb McCue ridge and then descent to Chiwaukum Lake, home to brook and cutthroat trout. The trail winds through Ewing Basin before reaching subalpine terrain near exquisite Larch Lake. An optional scramble ends at Cup Lake, where snow can last well into July. After 40 years as a backcountry ski destination, Alpine Lakes High Camp’s new owners, Justin and Austin Donohue, have opened it year-around. Two hikers paid a visit to see how the rustic cabins and front-door trail access stack up in the summertime. By Andrew Coghill I had a feeling n the shore of Chiwaukum 2, halfway between Stevens Pass and that I could only Lake we have a choice to Leavenworth. We arrived at camp by way make — continue hiking of a bumpy 8-mile gravel road in a black associate with 2 miles to Larch and Cup Range Rover shuttle vehicle. We sat with “childhood. It was a Olakes, rumored to be festooned in alpine Becky and Dennis, a couple also visiting splendor — or turn around earlier than from Seattle. Once we dropped our gear feeling that comes planned and retrace our steps 3 miles to at Bluebell cabin and our camp host when time falters, Bluebell cabin, where we can laze the McKenzie gave us a map highlighting 10 all commitments afternoon away, read our books on the hikes in the area, we sank a couple of cabin deck, listen to the creek and watch warm ones in the creek and set off. vanish, and the the wind in the trees. We crossed a small stream and gawked world collapses into Such are the hardships at Alpine Lakes at a distant waterfall from the empty High Camp. trail leading to Lake Julius and Loch a single afternoon. My girlfriend and I booked a mid-July, Eileen. As the third and highest lake in 3-day stay at the backcountry retreat, and the chain, Lake Donald was just right, in the wood-fired hot tub, an unwind were excited to hike in the neighboring lapping at a talus field at the base of a in the sauna and a sleep warmed by Alpine Lakes Wilderness — nearly mountain backed by blue sky. There we crackling firewood in the stove. The next 400,000 acres of clear streams, jagged rested above the mosquitoes and gazed morning, my die-hard urge to hike melted peaks and lush, fragrant forests in at the lake as a breeze swept shimmering into the mountain like last winter’s snow. Washington’s Central Cascade Range. diamond paths on its surface. One day of High Camp had its hooks in me. We hadn’t planned on letting any exploring down, two to go. daylight hours slip idly by. But then the unexpected happened. We Cabin life We started the adventure by driving to returned from Lake Donald for a relaxing Originally named Scottish Lakes High

the guest parking lot just off Highway evening in High Camp, including a soak Camp, the 20-acre camp has entranced courtesyPhotos Justin Donohue

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 47 NW Weekend

guests with simple comforts and access to If You Go with the Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance to backcountry trails since founders Bill and Peg Alpine Lakes High Camp build out existing bike trails and aim to add Stark built the first A-frame cabin in 1978. High is 15 miles east of Stevens two trails per year. Group rentals for retreats, Camp developed through the work of the Starks Pass. It’s at 5,000 feet weddings and family gatherings are becoming and later owners Don and Chris Hanson into a and features 9 cabins. Transportation is provided, more popular. Another activity in the works: cluster of nine cabins and a lodge surrounded for a fee, from a parking area weekend options that guests can sign up by fir and spruce trees at 5,000 feet. to the cabins. for like guided mushroom foraging, nature The cabins are simple and comfortable, efficient The smallest cabin sleeps 1 photography and stargazing. in design and patinated with charm. Cabins to 2 people while the largest vary in size and bed count, but each cabin has a sleeps 6-10 people. Multiple Solitude in spades cabins can be rented wood-burning stove, propane lantern, propane together for larger groups. While only a day before I would have laughed two-burner stove, cookware, dishes, table and Prices start at $120 per at the idea, we in fact turned around at chairs, and ample windows for natural light and night for the smallest cabin Chiwaukum Lake. We climbed McCue Ridge, forest views. It’s off the grid, but small devices and $520 per night for the pausing at Inspiration Lookout to admire a can be charged off two solar panels at the largest. Prices are higher on weekends and holidays. view to the north of snow-enthroned Glacier lodge. Spring water is provided to each cabin in Peak, then descended to Bluebell down a trail What to bring 5-gallon containers. named Wild Bill Hill. Becky, an avid hiker, While High Camp provides The cabins are positioned for a bit of privacy, beds and pillows, you’ll need later told us that Cup Lake was possibly her and small winding paths that connect the to pack sleeping bags, linens favorite hike in the Cascades. and pillowcases. Bring food cabins allow guests to be as neighborly as they Sometime that afternoon while lying in the like. The lodge, with its library, loft, hot coffee, in coolers or hard-sided silent cabin, or maybe it was the next morning kitchen and large community room, acts as a containers that can be closed or zipped — open- after ditching hiking plans and sleeping in, I meeting place for shared meals and swapped topped bags are too difficult had a feeling that I could only associate with stories. (During our stay, Becky and Dennis gave to transport. childhood. It was a feeling that comes when out squares of delicious carrot cake.) Get more information time falters, all commitments vanish, and the and book a cabin at world collapses into a single afternoon. New owners, new offerings alpinelakeshighcamp.com. High Camp’s year has always centered on the McKenzie, who has seen many guests come winter season. Big powder days are the norm, and go in her three seasons as camp host, told and you won’t find a crowd or a lift line. With a trail system built me that most people leave High Camp feeling more grounded. with all skill levels in mind, and access to backcountry routes, She added, “They got to enjoy some wild air.” High Camp has kept skiers and snowshoers happy campers for While High Camp doesn’t have the conveniences that come with 40 years. electricity or indoor plumbing, it’s also free from digital clocks Summer is now on the activity calendar thanks to new owners and the electrical hums, drones, ticks and general rush that Justin and Austin Donohue, who purchased and renamed the have a way of creeping into life. For a weekend at least, I’ll take property in 2017. The husband-and-wife team have partnered that trade all the way to the outhouse.

OLD VEHICLE, NEW PURPOSE The process was simple. All I had to do was have my title and Are you trading up, or trying out a car-free lifestyle? Donate registration — they came and your car to Washington Trails picked up the car. Association! You’ll be doing your part to support the trails you love. — Max, WTA member and car donor Visit wta.org/cars or call 855- 500-RIDE to get started today!

48 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org RUSS LEVY

VOLUNTEERING SINCE 1998

“From the first day, I was hooked! Trail work has really become my community and my family. It was an easy choice to include WTA in my legacy planning because it is such a big part of my life. I feel like I’m doing something that thousands will be able to enjoy while I’m alive and in the future.”

Trails forever — by giving a legacy gift WHAT IS YOUR to Washington Trails Association, you’re protecting trails so they can stand the test of time. Anyone can participate, and it’s LEGACY? never too early to start planning.

Learn more at wta.org/legacy or contact Whitney Allen at 206-557-3404 | [email protected]

Photo by Britt Lê Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 49 Hike It

Go Deeper CONNECT to the Backcountry

50 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Hummocks Loop/ Johnston Ridge Mount St. Helens • Why drive to the top when you can hike it? This is a great day hike for visitors who’ve never been to Mount St. Helens or who haven’t been in a while. By Steve Payne

Start left from the trailhead and stop at the interpretive signs that describe the formation of the hummocks — large mounds of volcanic rock and gravel. In a shy mile, keep left on the Boundary Trail to ascend Johnston Ridge, hiking 3 miles to the Loowit Viewpoint and another shy mile to the Johnston Ridge Observatory. The trail here is exposed, so bring plenty of sun protection and water. The views of the broken mountain and the bare plains surrounding it get more dramatic with every step! Escape the heat and refill your water bottle in the observatory, or listen to a presentation by one of the knowledgeable rangers. On your way back, keep left at the junction with the Hummocks Trail to complete the loop along the North Fork Toutle River, and then through marshlands and young forest back to the parking lot. Going farther: The Hummocks Trail is also the start of Boundary Trail 1, stretching to the east for 57 miles to Council Lake in the heart of the south Cascades. With some advance planning and permits in hand, experienced backpackers can do a thru-hike of this incredibly varied landscape, from blasted moonscapes near the volcano to lush forests on the mountain’s north side. A more bite-sized backpacking trip is the Go farther. We put together some of our Mount Margaret backcountry, which is accessible via the Lakes Trail and Coldwater favorite day hikes and ideas for turning Lake and offers a weekend’s worth of them into an overnight adventure. Try one exploring. of these, or grab a map and plan your own. Either way, tell us about it in a trip report. DISTANCE: 9.5 miles ◆ ELEVATION GAIN: 1,800 feet PEAK ELEVATION: 4,200 feet MAP: Green Trails 332S: Mount St. Helens PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass ◆ DOGS: No INFO: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/hummocks-loop TRAILHEAD: From points north, drive I-5 to exit 63 for Winlock-Toledo, then WA-505 east to the junction with WA-504 (aka Spirit Lake Highway). From the south, drive I-5 north to exit 49 Castle Rock, then WA-504 east. From the junction of WA-505/504, continue east on WA-504 29 miles to the Hummocks Trail parking lot on

the right (no facilities). Maura Hallam by Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 51 Hike It

DISTANCE: 8 miles roundtrip Spray Park from Mowich Lake Mount Rainier area • ELEVATION GAIN: 1,700 feet One of Mount Rainier National Park’s all-star attractions also makes a grand PEAK ELEVATION: 6,500 feet MAP: Green Trails 269: Mount jumping-off point for other hikes nearby.By Matt Kite Rainier West, Green Trails: 269SX Mount Rainier Wonderland. Spray Park is so lovely it’s easy to lose track of time during a visit. Its meadows seem to stretch PERMIT: National park permit, on forever, and many hikers are tempted to keep going, ever curious about what lies beyond the plus overnight camping permit for backpackers. next rise. Conveniently, the hiking options are almost as numerous and varied as the wildflowers DOGS: No for which it is famous. Avalanche lilies, hellebores and monkshood, among a couple dozen other INFO: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ varieties, fight for their moment in the spotlight during the long, lazy days of July and August. Spray spray-park Park’s subalpine meadows are bisected by tarns, boulders and tidy swaths of blooming heather, TRAILHEAD: First head to with the mountain presiding over everything. The view of Rainier will stop you dead in your tracks. Buckley, which is accessible from Seattle and Tacoma via Consider visiting Spray Park as part of a backpacking trip. Nearby destinations include Seattle Hwy 410. Then take Hwy 165 Park, Ipsut Falls, Tolmie Peak and the Wonderland Trail. Spray Park is like the hub of a wheel, south past the tiny town of with exciting hikes extending in every direction. Wilkeson. A one-lane bridge will carry you over the Carbon River, Campsites can be found at Mowich Lake, Ipsut Creek, Eagle’s Roost, Cataract Camp and Carbon and a half-mile later you’ll reach Camp. There are vault toilets and a ranger station at the Mowich Lake walk-in campground. And a Y in the road. To continue to Eagle’s Roost is only a stone’s throw from enchanting Spray Falls. Mowich Lake, take a right at the Y-junction and follow the Make a circle: Since Mowich Lake is often congested during peak season, consider beginning increasingly bumpy gravel road from the Paul Peak Trailhead, found on the right side of the road a half-mile after entering the 17 miles to the lake. Use caution park. Gently descend 3.1 miles through quiet old-growth forest before arriving at a junction with as you navigate the potholes the Wonderland Trail. Follow this for 2.9 miles to Mowich Lake, then head for Spray Park. Once and washboarded stretches. To continue to the Carbon River you reach Spray Park, you can return the way you came or continue on. For 12 more miles, wander Road entrance, take a left at through scenic Seattle Park, Cataract Valley, the Carbon River junction, Ipsut Creek and rugged the Y-junction and follow the Ipsut Pass, among other highlights. Returning to Mowich Lake, descend the quarter-mile to the smooth asphalt road 8 miles to Wonderland Trail connector and retrace your steps to the Paul Peak Trail. the ranger station and then the park entrance. Photo by Gibson Kite by Photo

52 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org DISTANCE: 11.5 miles roundtrip Lakes Dorothy, Bear and Deer (to Bear Lake) Highway 2 • ELEVATION GAIN: 1,800 feet PEAK ELEVATION: 3,800 feet Visit Lake Dorothy, a large beautiful lake, then continue on to higher country to visit the MAP: Green Trails Map 176S: smaller lakes Bear and Deer. By Alan Gibbs Alpine Lakes – Stevens Pass PERMIT: Northwest Forest Pass DOGS: Leashed From the trailhead, follow the trail nearly 2 miles to Lake Dorothy’s outlet, take the outlet spur trail INFO: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ 100 yards and, if you’re surefooted, venture onto the logs for a view up the entire length of the lake. dorothy-lake TRAILHEAD: From Everett, drive Return to the main trail and head toward Bear Lake. Along the way, come to Lake Dorothy’s inlet east on Highway 2 for 45 miles. stream, easily crossed on boulders in the summer. Between mileposts 45 and 46, Continue past the lake, gaining 700 feet in 1.6 miles to reach the pass to Bear Lake. Enjoy views turn south on the Old Cascade Highway toward Money Creek down to Lake Dorothy before dropping 200 feet in a half-mile to reach Bear Lake, a good place for Campground; a sign here says lunch. This is the turnaround point for many day hikers. Deer Lake, Bear Lake’s twin, is 30 feet “Road Closed in 1.1 Miles.” Drive lower. Going there adds another mile to your roundtrip. Your option! the 1.1 miles and just before the final Road Closed sign, turn It is possible to continue on to Snoqualmie Lake, a large, beautiful lake in a forested setting, just right onto the Miller River Road. over a mile from Deer Lake. But to visit it you have to descend 500 feet. Cross a low ridge and This is initially marked as Forest soon see part of Snoqualmie Lake below. Descend the switchbacks to reach the north end of the Road 6410, but becomes 6412. lake. It’s about 9 miles to the trailhead. The road is unpaved, and the first Enjoy the sandy beach and the great lunch rock that offers a commanding view! Find a few part may be reasonably smooth. campsites here. In the final few miles, be alert for potholes. There is room for 20 Thru-hike it: Snoqualmie Lake is also accessible from the south. Step up your adventure and cars at the trailhead. There is a coordinate with friends to meet and share a camp at Snoqualmie Lake, then trade car keys so both toilet, but no immediate source

parties can do a thru-hike. of water. Gibbs Alan by Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 53 Hike It Irely Lake Trail Olympic Peninsula, Pacific Coast • Enjoy a temperate rainforest saunter up from the Quinault River valley floor to a fauna-rich lake within Olympic National Park. By Shannon Leader

The Irely Lake Trail starts with a short rocky climb through an open grove of juvenile hemlocks that sprang up in the aftermath of past windstorms. The path soon moves into dappled montane forest that surrounds you in its humid embrace. A blanket of viridescent moss cloaks every forest feature, interspersed with trillium, ferns, huckleberry and salal. Watch your step, though; the trail is woven with the gnarled woodpecker and squawking ducks serenade DISTANCE: 2.8 miles roundtrip knuckles of the immense fir, cedar, spruce and you. Gaze at Mount Hoquiam rising to the ELEVATION GAIN: 145 feet PEAK ELEVATION: 615 feet hemlock trees overhead. southeast and search for the tip of Colonel Bob MAP: Nat Geo Olympic National In a half-mile, the trail takes its course along Peak to the south through the woods on the Park, Green Trails 166: Mt Christie Irely Creek, which permeates the forest floor. other side of lake. If you bring a pole, enjoy a PERMIT: None ◆ DOGS: No Aged wooden puncheons and a brief detour spell of catch and release! INFO: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ three-lakes up onto a cliff band do their best to keep you Backpack it: If continued, the Irely Lake Trail above the devil’s club, skunk cabbage and provides access to Three Lakes, the world’s TRAILHEAD: Travel north from muck, but expect more than a few swampy Hoquiam on US Highway 101 for largest Alaska yellow cedar and the stunning, 38 miles. Turn right at milepost patches as you go. recently-maintained-by-WTA Skyline Trail, 126 onto South Shore Road and There are two creek crossings, a rock hop and with Kimta Peak and Lake Beauty in another Lake Quinault. Drive 12.9 miles a narrow log bridge, before the trail gains 60 21 miles. (pavement ends at 7.8 miles) to a junction at the Quinault River more feet and transitions back into the dense For a backpacking loop, 45 miles will take Bridge. Turn left, crossing over the forest. At 1.2 miles, arrive at a modest sign for you up on the Skyline, down to a junction bridge. Immediately turn right a detour up and down to the lake. The last few with the Low Divide and back on the North onto North Shore Road and drive 2.9 miles to the trailhead (elevation feet descend to a small bank on a ladder of Fork Quinault River to the North Fork roots that may require both hands. 475 feet) on the left. Parking is on Campground, just a quarter-mile up the road the right with room for a dozen Take rest by this boondock lake as a hungry from the Irely Lake Trail you started on. vehicles.

ToastToast your favorite trail and WTA with this special beer from Bellevue Brewing Company!

Find it at a local retailer near you at wta.org/WTAbeer

A portion of proceeds benefit WTA. Please consume responsibly.

CELEBRATING MORE THAN 50 YEARS OF PROTECTING TRAILS Photo by Shannon Leader by Photo

54 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org LEARN • LEAD • INSPIRE

BACKPACKING WORKSHOPS Backpacking workshops North Cascades National Park for EDUCATORS July 18-21 Olympic National Park Aug. 8-11 Spend a few summer days with WTA and learn how to plan and lead backpacking trips for the groups of youth and families that you work with. These 4-day backpacking workshops dive into the trip planning and facilitation skills you’ll need to share a challenging and rewarding wilderness adventure with groups of youth, families or young adults that are looking to expand their horizons. The workshop includes all the food and equipment you’ll need, and no previous experience is necessary. Regardless of your goals, come spend a few nights under the stars with WTA and increase your confidence leading group outings!

Learn more and sign up at wta.org/olt. Washington Photo by Erik Haugen-Goodman Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 55 Hike It

Trails Less Traveled with Craig North Fork Skokomish River Romano Olympic Peninsula • Follow the North Fork Skokomish Trail, retracing part of the O’Neil Party’s 1890 exploratory route, which helped lead to the establishment of Olympic National Park. DISTANCE: 27 miles roundtrip Then push on to Home Sweet Home, which has changed little since O’Neil’s passing. ELEVATION GAIN: 4,300 feet PEAK ELEVATION: 4,700 feet DOGS: No The North Fork Skokomish Trail is one of the more popular routes in Olympic National Park; but MAP: Green Trails 168SX: the crowds rapidly thin the farther upstream you hike. Start up the North Fork Skokomish trail, Olympic Mountains East crossing the first of many side creeks. There is no lack of water on this route. Pass the Flapjack PERMIT: National park permit (or Interagency pass) and Lakes Trail, which siphons off scads of hikers. After passing Spike Camp, enter impressive old- backcountry camping permit growth forest. After crossing Madeline and Donahue creeks, come to a spur trail leading to Big Log INFO: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ Camp along the river. north-fork-skokomish-river Proceed straight, crossing the North Fork Skokomish on a good bridge above an impressive chasm. BOOK: “Backpacking Washington” by Craig Romano Then bear right at a junction and continue hiking along the river through maple glades. At 6.8 TRAILHEAD: From Shelton, miles, reach riverside Camp Pleasant, which really is a pleasant spot. travel north on U.S. 101 for 15 Continue easy walking along the river and through gorgeous old growth, arriving at Nine Stream miles to Hoodsport. Turn left Camp at 9.7 miles. From here on, the mood changes. The trail now steeply climbs. Pass Two Bear onto Highway 119 proceeding 9.3 miles to a T-intersection Camp. In autumn, expect to see a couple of bears in the meadows and huckleberry patches that with Forest Road 24. Turn left, follow. continuing on Hwy 119 until it ends in 1.7 miles; then continue The way continues climbing, crossing pocket meadows with growing views south down the North on graveled FR 24 for 3.7 miles. Fork. Skirt a pretty tarn before cresting 4,700-foot First Divide. Then steeply descend 500 feet Then bear right, coming to the into the sprawling meadows of Home Sweet Home. Set up camp and enjoy the view of a cascade trailhead at the Staircase Ranger tumbling down from 6,114-foot Mount Hopper. Also admire 6,223-foot Mount Steel across the Station in 1.2 miles. green carpet. Home sweet home indeed. Craig Romano is a guidebook author, craigromano.com. Tip: The trip to Camp Pleasant can usually be made year-round. Home Sweet Home is usually

hikable from July through October. Romano Craig by Photo

56 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Scouting Challenge

Help fellow hikers, and WTA, stay up to date on trail conditions

Foggy Dew Ridge Where it is: North Cascades – Methow/Sawtooth Our site (wta.org) offers thousands What we know: Foggy Dew Ridge makes a great day hike, despite of hikes, but not inconsistent maintenance here. Be prepared to do a little navigation, since the all of them have route gets pretty brushy along the way to the top. But if you’re itching for more, current trip reports, extend it by hiking Pasayten Drive and Foggy Dew Ridge, then take the Martin so hikers aren’t Creek Trail back to the trailhead. able to check on current trail Recon request: Let us know how the loop is! Hiking guide correspondent and conditions before sometimes-Methow resident Rolan says that the trail can be quite overgrown, heading out. To help but we haven’t had a trip report from here since last fall. We’d like to hear how inform your fellow you find it now. trail users, we’re File your trip report here: wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/foggy-dew-ridge asking responsible, confident hikers to  Recon report for Nimbus Knob: While we did get a trip report for do some on-the- Nimbus Knob in March, we’d love to hear more about how you find the trail. ground research for Write a bit about the trail conditions, and post a few photos of what you find. us and report back. Photo by John Porter by Photo

Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org 57 Trail Mix Flora and Fauna Fauna If you give a moose a muffin…it would say Moose • Alces alces it would rather munch on twigs, cattails, water lilies and tall grass for lunch. This has prompted names of mus, moos, moz and mooz from Indigenous Algonquian languages that identify this ungulate as a “twig eater.” The largest of the deer family is hard to mistake for any of its relatives with its long gangly legs, massive shoulders, palmated antlers, large snout and the dangling flap of skin at its throat. Moose may look awkward, but they can travel up to 35 miles per hour on land. If asked to come out and play, a moose would say it prefers the spruce of mature boreal forests like the Selkirk Mountains, Okanogan and North Cascades. If it is startled, odds are a moose will quickly vamoose. If one is aggravated, however, call a truce and hide behind a tree; it will soon pass by. As many as 5,200 of these charismatic herbivores are currently believed to call Washington home. Easily affected by environmental changes, populations are known to follow a boom-and-bust cycle that shows life’s not always easy being a moose. — Shannon Leader

They say an elephant never forgets. And once you’ve had the pleasure of meeting elephant’s head blooming, you’re unlikely to ever forget it, either. Also known as elephant’s head lousewort, this showy plant clearly resembles its namesake — only perhaps its namesake as inspired by a child with a fuchsia crayon. It has clearly visible elephant ears and a trunk, with a whole herd marching up each stalk. While the blooms are usually pink or purple, they can also be white. Elephant’s-head prefers to grow at high elevations in wet areas, such as along riverbanks or in marshy areas. The plant is parasitic and obtains its nutrients from the roots of other plants. In Washington, look for it in high, wet areas. It blooms in August or even into September, depending upon Flora conditions.

— Jessi Loerch Elephant’s head • Pedicularis groenlandica Jason Neuerburg Ross Bindler, by Photos

58 Washington Trails / Summer 2019 / wta.org Snapshot

NEW BEGINNINGS Kristina found Bobby Switchblade under a bush on Christmas I love this Day. He was still a kitten, not quite full-grown, and Kristina took him in. photo because “I was in a very abusive relationship when Bobby and I found each it“ shows our other. My ex would threaten to get rid of him when he got jealous of the attention Bobby got,” Kristina said. happiness being With a life to care for other than her own, Kristina found the together and the strength to leave. This photo is from the first hike of their new freedom together. beginning of our Kristina put Bobby in a harness from the beginning, and now he can hike 4 or 5 miles and has even been camping. new life. Trail: Divide Camp Trail Location: South Cascades — Mount Adams area Type of trip: Day hike Trail conditions: Trail in good condition

You did it. Now relive it. File a trip report. wta.org/tripreports

Photo by Lynette Alber