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8 4 FOOD DRINK | BITES 1 encased-meat beacon. At Marché Moderne (3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714.434.7900, marchemoderne. net) chef/ co-owner Florent Marneau makes sausage because, he says, “It’s fun and it’s creative. It’s a hard business, and it just makes me happy.” Also, “Too much sausage, when you buy it in the store, it’s oversalted and you don’t taste the quality of the pork.” Marneau goes beyond the brat with options like crispy pig trotter sausage. He braises pig foot with garlic, salt and pepper before filling hog casings with foot and shoulder meat. He sears slices until they’re crispy outside, then serves them over beluga lentils with poached egg and sauce Bordelaise. Frisée and walnut vinaigrette cut the richness. Marneau also makes merguez using lamb shoulder and spices like cumin, garlic and harissa, serving it over traditional Moroccan couscous with lamb ribeye, cilantro chermoula, Medjool dates and garbanzo beans, cooling the palate with mint emulsion and yogurt. Across South Coast Plaza at Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s (3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714.352.2525, charliepalmer.com), executive chef Amar Santana runs a house-made sausage program. He makes 10 di!erent kinds of sausage, including summer sausage, red wine sausage and landjager, which was developed by Bavarian hunters. “It is a lost art,” says Santana. “Lots of chefs prefer buying [sausage] to making their own because it’s easier. Plus you can make di!erent ones with di!erent flavors, meats and fat content.” Santana prefers pork butt, beef top round and fat back when making links. In O.C. you don’t need a Euro connection to create compelling sausage. Little Saigon is a hotbed for house- made meats, especially at restaurants that specialize in 7 mon or 8 mon, seven or eight variations on a single protein. Nhu-Y (10830 Warner Ave., Fountain Valley, 714.963.1700) means “satisfaction” in English, and the restaurant features ca 8 mon, eight courses of fish. ffle nine-year-old restaurant also utilizes freshwater bass in courses like ca mo chai, cigarette-shaped fish sausages encased in aromatic Hawaiian la lot leaves. Binh Dan is due north in Westminster (10040 McFadden Ave., 714.839.7050) and specializes in de 7 mon, seven courses of goat. Get past the plate of congealed goat’s blood layered with sheets of goat liver and you’ll receive the comparatively tame de nuong la lot mo chai, goat sausage encased in caul meat. ffle amniotic membrane melts into the betel-leaf flecked ground meat, creating caramelization. ffle links are showered with crushed peanuts for texture’s sake. Garden Grove’s !ien An (13518 Harbor Blvd., THE MISSING LINK Garden Grove, 714.530.4955) completes the edible Clockwise from top left: The dining room at Marché menagerie, o!ering bo 7 mon, seven courses of beef. ffle Moderne; chef Mark Boble at Valhalla Table; selection includes bo nuong la lop, similar to Greek dolma, Charlie Palmer chef Amar Santana slices his house-cured sausages for the charcuterie plate. with heavily spiced beef wrapped in la lot leaves and grilled. Bo nuong mo chai are well-seasoned and wrapped in a thin layer of fat that melts into the sausage. With all these options, O.C. chefs are proving that sausages may be stu!ed, but there’s no filler. R
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