Page 1 Monday

RETAIL: ▲ INNERWEAR: Gearing ACCESSORIES: Vendors and buyers up for Movado links upbeat about a Fashion’s with artist recovery, page 8.

Night Out, Kenny Scharf, ▲ page 9. INSIDE: page 3. ▲ WWDMAGIC Preview

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • August 17, 2009 • $3.00

WWDAccessories/Innerwear/Legwear MONDAY Silver Fox A one-hit wonder, she is not. Brit songstress Estelle is out to prove she’s got more to offer than “American Boy,” her Grammy-winning duet with Kanye West. She’s hard at work on a pop-leaning follow-up album to 2008’s “Shine,” and now the singer is revealing her brand new look to WWD. “I just don’t want to be stuck or corseted,” she says. Here, Estelle goes for bold and unabashed sexiness. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Hip but Under Pressure: Contemporary Retailers Squeezed by Downturn By Vicki M. Young THE WAITING CONTINUES IN THE hard-hit contemporary retail market. While merchants wait for the next big trend that will spur consumers to get over their reluctance to buy, the finance executives in the back office struggle to pay bills and keep credit flowing. As a result, many of their vendors are waiting for payment as well. “This is a really tough period for the contemporary market, which is having a Camilla and Marc’s supercompetitive time,” said investment metallic weave blazer banker Richard Kestenbaum of Triangle and Sass & Bide’s Capital LLC. acetate, nylon and Lycra spandex bodysuit. Kestenbaum sees “the classic signs of Cesare Paciotti shoes. a mature market” as customers who once rushed out for items like premium denim find their closets full, their budgets tight and their See Contemporary, Page 12 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; HAIR BY DICKEY/HAIR RULES; MAKEUP BY AJ CRIMSON FOR KISSABLE COUTURE; FASHION ASSISTANT: JENNIFER BLITZER; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE JENNIFER BLITZER; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: AJ CRIMSON FOR KISSABLE DICKEY/HAIR COUTURE; RULES;FASHION MAKEUP BY CENTENO; HAIR BY TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 WWD.COM Penney’s Posts Loss in 2Q By Evan Clark originally planned. Their spending habits have changed to reflect this for the foresee- WwDMAccessories/Innerwear/Legwearonday Consumers might still be uneasy, but able future in our opinion.” Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd, J.C. Penney Co. Penney’s loss in the second quarter, which FASHION Inc.’s chairman and chief executive officer, said translated to a breakeven performance on a There have been myriad fashion lessons learned his confidence is growing — despite the compa- per share basis, was better than the 1-cent 6 ny’s $1 million second-quarter loss and 7.9 per- deficit analysts’ predicted. Results com- since Estelle Swaray’s first U.S. album, “Shine,” cent sales decline. pared with year-ago earnings of $117 million, catapulting the rapper-R&B singer to stardom. “We’ve seen the volatility of our business or 52 cents a share. And sales for the quar- GENERAL narrow, and this stabilization has enabled us to ter ended Aug. 1 slipped to $3.94 billion from be more thoughtful in planning our business,” $4.28 billion. 1 While contemporary stores await the next big trend Ullman told analysts on a conference call Friday. The company’s strongest results came in to entice shoppers, their finance chiefs struggle to “We’re more confident coming into the third shoes and women’s apparel, where the Polo pay bills and keep credit flowing. quarter than we were in the second quarter, al- Ralph Lauren Corp.-produced American Living, 3 Switzerland’s Swatch Group reported a 28 percent beit overall consumer demand is still lagging.” A.n.a. and Worthington brands were key driv- slump in first-half net profits but forecast a pick-up Ullman said the company’s average unit re- ers. California was particularly strong and the in demand for the second half. tail price would be on par with a year ago in the Southwest — stripped of competition from the second half. now-liquidated Mervyns — was Penney’s best- INNERWEAR: If the intensity of traffic at the recent s 8 Penney’s projected third-quarter results performing region. New York market was an indication, the economy is would range from a loss of 5 cents a share to For the first half, earnings fell 89.9 percent to on the slow road to recovery. earnings of 5 cents a share — worse than the $24 million, or 11 cents, on a 6.9 percent decline 9 ACCESSORIES: Movado is known for its clean, profits of 14 cents a share analysts were expect- in sales to $7.83 billion. modern timepieces, but its collaboration with artist ing. The vast majority of the company’s expect- The company boosted its guidance for the Kenny Scharf goes in a different direction. ed profits for the year are slated to come in the full year to earnings of 75 cents to 90 cents a all-important fourth quarter, which includes the share, up from the 50 cents to 65 cents previ- 10 Kmart is launching a new apparel brand, Thre3 by holiday season. ously projected. The new range is more in line the U.S. Polo Association, in time for the back-to- “Consumers still have a lot on their with the 89 cents analysts had projected for school selling season. minds,” said Ullman, who also sits on the the year. EYE board of the Federal Reserve Bank of Dallas. But company is still taking a cautious path “Overriding concerns about the future of forward. Capital expenditures are projected to Given the relatively gloomy summer, New Yorkers health care and the timing of an economic fall to about $400 million next year from $600 4 have been eager for days to shed their layers, recovery continues to create uncertainty and million this year. A look from Josie. sometimes to unflattering results. angst from the consumers who realize that Shares of the firm declined 6.2 percent to WWD MAGIC Preview is included in this issue as a supplement. they may need to save more than they had $31.29 Friday. Classified Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 Tough Quarter at A&F Triggers Price Cuts FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and By Alexandra Steigrad said, referring to the 29-door chain the company August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance decided to shutter in June. “That’s a lesson for Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé After reporting a $26.7 million loss in Gilly going forward and all of our brands. We Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and the second quarter and its third straight quarter are young. We are sexy. We are controversial at at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services of double-digit sales declines, Abercrombie & times. That’s what we know how to do and that’s Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO Fitch Co. said it is working to enliven its fashion the business that we own here and are comfort- West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK mix and lower prices. able that we can around the world.” ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or The New Albany, Ohio-based company has For the second quarter ended Aug. 1, visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the sought to protect its brand and avoid promo- Abercrombie’s loss translated into 30 cents a di- Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, tions even as consumers opted for less-expen- luted share and compared with a profit of $77.8 you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy sive fashions, but chairman and chief executive million, or 87 cents, a year ago. The loss includ- of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production officer Michael Jeffries said the teen retailer is ed a $24.4 million pretax charge for closing the correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other beginning to adjust its strategy. Ruehl operations and related store asset impair- Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available On a conference call with analysts Friday, ment charges. to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or Jeffries acknowledged that “consumer spend- Revenue fell 23.3 percent to $648.5 million call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY ing patterns domestically continue to be dic- from $845.8 million a year earlier, as quarterly OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, tated by cost and value propositions and this is comparable-store sales declined 30 percent. PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS clearly a headwind for our premium brands.” Analysts anticipated a loss of 7 cents a share. SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER In order to combat these challenges, he said For the first half, Abercrombie recorded an MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. the company is lowering ticket prices with the $86 million loss, or 98 cents a diluted share, ver- “most dramatic” cuts to take effect next quar- sus a profit of $139.9 million, or $1.55 a share. ter. Reductions will be more pronounced at the Revenues slid 23.4 percent to $1.26 billion from Hollister and abercrombie kids’ chains. $1.65 billion. DAILY I’m looking for “A little reality goes a long way,” said Jeff In other Abercrombie news, a former em- “ Black, Barclay’s Capital retail analyst. “I like ployee at Abercrombie & Fitch’s London flag- QUote shapewear. Back fat is a where they are going. There’s newness in the ship was awarded compensation for wrongful stores, and there hadn’t been in two years.” dismissal from the store totaling 9,013 pounds, big issue with my customers.... Jeffries, while acknowledging some fash- or $14,900 last week, according to London Press ion misses in the spring, said, “We continue Association reports. Riam Dean, who wears a — Cyla Weiner, owner of Sylene, a specialty boutique” in Chevy Chase, to see and believe that customers will pay for prosthetic arm, claimed in an employment tri- Md., on the trends in innerwear. Page 8. the right fashion, and that’s exactly what’s bunal during the three weeks she worked at happening in the business. It’s a work in prog- Abercrombie’s Savile Row store, she was asked ress.” to remove a cardigan that covered her prosthet- coming this week The company is also repositioning its Gilly ic limb, as it didn’t comply with Abercrombie’s Hicks intimate apparel brand. Jeffries said the dress code. The tribunal ruled last week that TUESDAY: The U.S. Labor • Atlanta Apparel Market concept would now target a 20-year-old custom- Dean was “unlawfully harassed for a reason Department releases the (through Aug. 24). er, where it had been focusing on shoppers 22 that related to her disability,” but said the com- Producer Price Index for July. • Aéropostale Inc., and up. pany didn’t discriminate against her on the • Saks Inc., Target Corp. and The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., “The biggest learning from Ruehl is that as grounds of her disability. The TJX Cos. Inc. report second- Buckle Inc., Cato Corp., a company, we don’t do mature well,” Jeffries — With contributions from Nina Jones quarter sales and earnings. Gap Inc., Hibbett Sports Inc., Pacific Sunwear of California WEDNESDAY: Citi Trends Inc., Inc., Ross Stores Inc., Sears Hot Topic Inc., Limited Brands Holdings Corp., Stage Stores TODAY ON • More images from the Inc., Perry Ellis International Inc., Stein Mart Inc. and Wet Movado/Kenny Scharf Inc. and Phillips-Van Heusen Seal Inc. report second-quarter Corp. report second-quarter sales and earnings. timepiece collaboration sales and earnings. • Exclusive WWD video: FRIDAY: AnnTaylor Stores Corp. Behind the scenes at the THURSDAY: Surf Expo, Orlando, reports second-quarter sales Estelle fashion shoot Fla. (through Saturday). and earnings. WWD • Trend Report: Moody Tales .com from 2010 Transition CORRECTION • Global breaking news Circa pieces are not listed on Bluefly.com, as was stated in Fashion Scoops on page 8, Thursday. This was incorrect due to misinforma- A watch by Kenny Scharf from tion from the company. Movado’s Artists’ Series. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 3 WWD.COM L’Oréal Sues Sally Beauty Unit Fashion’s Night Out Gains Steam Over Alleged Product Fraud By David Moin Narciso Rodriguez, Lela Rose, Rachel Roy, Maria Sharapova, Elie Tahari, Diane von By Matthew Lynch CONSIDERING ITS SNOWBALLING SUP- Furstenberg, Alexander Wang, Yeohlee, David port, New York City’s Fashion’s Night Out Yurman, Lauren Bush, Sean “Diddy” Combs, L’ORÉAL USA FILED SUIT AGAINST A LAS VEGAS-AREA SALLY could turn out to be one monumental shop- Cindy Crawford, Lynda Carter, Hugh Jackman, Beauty Holdings Inc. affiliate the beauty giant claims diverted salon-only till-you-drop party. Karolina Kurkova, Liev Schreiber, Stephanie product to the gray market and ultimately to the shelves of Target and At the latest count, 700 stores across the Seymour and Ivanka Trump. CVS Pharmacies. fi ve boroughs are participating by staying Wintour; Michael Kors; Macy’s chairman, In a fraud complaint fi led Aug. 10 in U.S. District Court in Las Vegas, open until 11 p.m., recruiting designers, mod- president and chief executive Terry Lundgren, L’Oréal alleged that Austin, Tex.-based supplier Armstrong McCall LP used els and celebrities, and staging rock perfor- and a surprise celebrity will kick off the eve- its franchise, Nevada Hair Ventures LLC, to sell Matrix-branded hair care mances, Broadway acts, cook-ins, fashion ning at Macy’s in the Queens Center at 5 p.m. products without authorization to wholesaler Cadeau Express Inc. exhibits, makeovers, style seminars and even There will be a Vogue boutique showcasing Armstrong McCall is owned by Denton, Tex.-based Sally Beauty. sewing lessons. Twelve countries also are trends, a performance by the cast of “Hair,” Neither is named as a direct defendant in the suit. staging their versions of the event, but New and Wintour and Kors will sign Fashion’s Night L’Oréal alleges Hair of Nevada and Armstrong McCall sold Cadeau York is taking the lead. Out T-shirts for the fi rst 50 customers. “millions of dollars worth of Matrix products” from 2005 through 2007 “Little did I think, when the idea of American Express is creating a Fashion’s without authorization. According to the suit, Cadeau told the supplier Fashion’s Night Out was fi rst dreamed up this Night Out map highlighting the 700 retailers the goods would go to Las Vegas hotels for guest giveaways, but that much past March during the Paris collections, that and savings for card holders at stores and of the product went to gray market operators, who then sold it to mass we would have over 700-and- restaurants. Payless is pro- retailers. counting retailers, designers viding four Gray Line dou- The suit further accuses employees at the fi rms, including Armstrong and brands joining us,” said Liya Kedebe ble-decker buses to shuttle McCall president Neil Riemer, of taking tens of thousands of dollars of Vogue editor in chief Anna photographed consumers through Midtown kickbacks in cash and gifts from Cadeau for facilitating the deals. Wintour. “There is so much by Patrick and downtown, and Aveda’s According to L’Oréal, Armstrong McCall later brokered an authorized planned that we could shop Demarchelier Experience Center at Fifth till dawn and still not see in the Fashion’s Avenue and West 19th Street and do everything.” Night Out will provide pedicabs within BEAUTY BEAT “Fashion’s Night Out T-shirt. a 15-block radius south of is that rare opportunity to the store. sale of $3.2 million in Matrix product to Cadeau for casino gift programs, meet the person behind the Barneys New York is but many of those deliveries also went to the gray market. label,” said Steven Kolb, hosting several designers Sally Beauty did not return a call for comment Friday. In a July 30 fi l- CFDA executive director. while Wool and the Gang ing with the Securities and Exchange Commission, however, the company The Sept. 10 event — will teach knitting; Lipstick acknowledged L’Oréal had raised nearly identical accusations in a law- created by the Council Queen Poppy King will do suit in the Superior Court of the State of California. of Fashion Designers of “lip-readings”; Loomstate In response to that suit, it said its board had hired independent coun- America, NYC & Company, will be customizing T-shirts, sel to investigate and found insuffi cient evidence company employees the City of New York and and Juan Carlos Obando had acted improperly. It said it intended to defend itself vigorously. Vogue — is geared to cele- will be giving salsa lessons. L’Oréal says through August 2008, it had found 1,081 bottles of condi- brate fashion, spur the econ- Bergdorf Goodman will have tioner from the deals at 24 mass market retailers, including at 182 Target omy and help consumers Zac Posen painting in the stores in 32 states. It called the example a “small sample.” feel less guilt about shop- windows; designers Peter Cadeau is not named as a defendant in the suit. When reached Friday, ping during the recession. Som and Cynthia Rowley ap- a receptionist said its owner, Ramon DeSage, was out of the country. A new Web site, fashionsnightout.com/re- pearing at a cook-off and André Leon Talley L’Oréal is seeking an injunction prohibiting the companies from fur- tailers, lists everything that’s in store for the hosting a fashion game with teams led by ther unauthorized sales and unspecifi ed damages. night so people can choose where to go based Donna Karan, Linda Fargo and Robert Verdi. on their favorite designer or brand. There are Bloomingdale’s is giving free 40 Carrots also daily updates on Fashion’s Night Out’s yogurt with purchases and providing live Guerlain Flagship to House Art Exhibition Facebook page and Twitter. music, free beauty treatments and a Madame PARIS — For the fourth consecutive year, Guerlain’s flagship here will sec- Fashion’s Night Out, considered the city’s Tussauds exhibit, while Lord & Taylor will ond as a gallery. Starting in mid-October, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis largest-ever retail event, supports charity. have hunks from the 2010 NYC Firefi ghters Vuitton-owned brand is to host an art exhibit in conjunction with the Foire Forty percent of the proceeds from a Fashion’s Calendar signing autographs. Internationale d’Art Contemporain (International Contemporary Art Fair). Night Out T-shirt will support The September Matisyahu, the Hasidic reggae rapper, One dozen artists put the theme of love under the microscope for the 11 Memorial and Museum at the World Trade will perform at the Kenneth Cole store show dubbed Mécaniques Amoureuses (Mechanisms of Love). Center. The NYC AIDS fund will benefi t from in Rockefeller Center, and Cole has cre- This year’s selected artists include Didier Fiuza Faustino, Rebecca a clothing drive Sept. 10 to 12 sponsored by ated a limited edition, eco-friendly Pledge Horn, Wang Du, Sophie Calle, Pascal Haudressy and Annette Messager. IMG at various retail and public locations. Allegiance to the Bag tote as part of a cam- Their pieces wrestle with themes including the attraction of one person The list of personal appearances includes paign to “remind consumers that it is OK to toward another and the lengths to which one will follow love. Manolo Blahnik, Thom Browne, Tory Burch, shop again,” said Cole. “There is a pervasive Last year’s exhibit, Le Renouveau du Temps (The Renewal of Time), Roberto Cavalli, Francisco Costa, Frédéric sense at the moment that shopping for nones- investigated the tension between temporal creations and the quest for Fekkai, Alberta Ferretti, Patricia Field, sential consumer goods is indulgent, frivolous eternity. Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger, Derek and questionably appropriate. The fact is con- Mécaniques amoureuses will be on display from Oct. 6 to Nov. 12 at the Lam, Nanette Lepore, Trish McEvoy, Isaac suming is what we do and it is what keeps the Maison Guerlain, 68 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, in the 8th arrondissement. Mizrahi, Kate Mulleavy, Josie Natori, Mary- economic engine going and continues to allow — Alicia LeBlanc Kate and Ashley Olsen, Oscar de la Renta, each of us to express ourselves individually.” Swatch 1st-Half Net Drops 28%, Sees Signs of Recovery By Elena Berton have drastically cut spending on luxury watches and retailers have sharply reduced inventories. SWITZERLAND’S SWATCH GROUP REPORTED Despite tough markets in the U.S., Japan and a 28 percent slump in first-half net profits but Spain, Swatch has benefi ted from its diversifi cation forecast a pick-up in demand for the second half. in all price and market brackets, as low and midrange The company said Friday that sales and order price points have held up better in the current eco- levels are showing signs of recovery. The world’s nomic downturn. largest watchmaker, best known for its colorful The company said the sales development in the Swatch watches, said sales in the second half last two to three months as well as current order en- of 2009 should be in line with the same period tries show signs of recovery. “This positive trend has in 2008, with some key brands expected to post been clearly confi rmed in July 2009,” Swatch said. higher sales. Looking forward, Swatch expects retailers to start “A main growth driver in the coming months reordering at normal level as the global economy will continue to be the improving sales in most begins to stabilize, with orders helped by product of the countries where demand should pick up launches from Breguet, Tiffany and Omega’s new with the anticipated weakening of the reces- The Swatch shop on constellation line. sion,” Swatch said. Paris’ Champs Elysées. With an improving macroeconomic outlook and Net profi ts for the six months ended June 30 signs of recovery in luxury consumption in emerg- dropped a less-than-expected 28 percent to 301 The ing markets, Swatch is well positioned against most million Swiss francs, or $264 million at average exchange rates for the period. Breguet hard-luxury peers, said Citigroup analyst Thomas Sales declined 15.3 percent to 2.48 billion Swiss francs, or $2.18 billion, Tradition Chauvet. refl ecting a decline in demand for watches and watch components. The Biel- watch. “Swatch’s favorable geographic and product mix, based company, whose brands span from handmade Breguet timepieces to strong industrial heritage and solid balance sheet are Swatch brightly colored plastic watches, also manufactures movements and compo- competitive advantages,” Chauvet added. nents for other watchmakers. Shares in the company have risen strongly in recent weeks Watch sales in the period slid 16.4 percent to 1.96 billion Swiss francs, or $1.72 as investors become more optimistic about a pickup in demand billion, outperforming the overall market for Swiss watch exports, which slumped and on expectations that Swatch’s diversifi ed business would fare 26 percent in the fi rst six months of 2009. better in the recession. On Friday, Swatch’s shares closed up 11.2 Exports of Swiss timepieces have been tumbling over the past year as consumers percent at 233.60 Swiss francs, or $217.60 at current exchange. 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 WWD.COM

Hana At the At the Watermill Soukupova Watermill Center gala. at the Center Whitney Art gala. Party.

At a cocktail party for the Fashion Institute of Technology’s Couture Council. Heat

At a cocktail party for the Fashion Seekers Institute of Technology’s Given the relatively gloomy sum- Couture mer — has there been a day when Council. it hasn’t rained? — New Yorkers have been eager to shed their lay- ers whenever they can. But what Irina Pantaeva at lies beneath is no guarantee, as party the premiere of hosts around town have learned in the last few “The Hangover.” months. For instance, it’s doubtful that one Upper East Side design maven expected guests to show up to her cocktail soiree spilling out of their red frocks or donning bustiers that looked as if the label read “Edward Scissorhands.” Or what about the dark winged warlock look one partygoer donned at an art benefit downtown? But surely the organizers of the Watermill Center’s annual gala knew they were asking for it. The dress code was designated “inferno,” and guests dutifully obliged, opting for a shredded twist on lederhosen, an inexplicable sports jer- sey and a pair of particularly unsubtle painted jeans. It can certainly be said that these shock- ing ensembles liven up what can be an other- wise staid social scene, but whatever happened to the sundress? That is, if the sun shines. Bethenny Frankel at At the Watermill Center gala. Super Saturday.

At the Whitney Art Party. ichner At the At the E teve S

Watermill Watermill At the Parrish Center Center Museum’s gala. gala. annual benefit. photos by intoStep the spotlight PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO

SPRING 2010 COLLECTION SEASON NEW YORK LONDON MILAN PARIS

DAILY COVERAGE IN PRINT & ONLINE: SEPTEMBER 11 – OCTOBER 9

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD sales representative. 6 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 Electric Feel

Estelle Swaray — she of the megahit “American Boy” — has learned a thing or two about music and fashion. Regarding the former, the West London native knows to skip over her ballad “Back in Love” during her concerts (“I did it one time and I think I put the audience and myself to sleep”) and to end with her most famous, Grammy-winning jam (“I can sell them [“American Boy”] through the whole show”). Sartorially speaking, Swaray, who uses only her given name professionally, realized “that you shouldn’t wear silks, satins, those kind of materials, ’cause once they start sticking and you start seeing sweat patches, it’s the most unattractive thing on the planet.” There have, of course, been myriad other lessons learned since Swaray’s first U.S. album, “Shine,” dropped last year, catapulting the rapper-R&B singer to top 40 stardom and onto the pages of glossies including Interview, Elle and Vogue. Chief among those lessons: the value of an original look. For Swaray, this meant hewing to sexed-up Fifties polish — think upper-thigh-grazing shifts; poufy, cleavage-bearing frocks; trench coats, flashy baubles and an asymmetric haircut. “Audrey Pepa” is what she calls her stylistic hybrid: Audrey Hepburn’s crisp elegance crossed with Salt-N-Pepa’s brash vibe. “I’ve always dug Audrey Hepburn,” she says. “I think she’s one of the classic beauties. And Salt-N-Pepa is just me and my outspoken, need-to-say- some-s--t side.”

Chic, nothing too crazy, s nothing“ too clingy — Elizabeth and James’ just 100 percent free.­ polyester — Estelle Swaray on her new” look jumpsuit. Sequin necklace; Alejandro Clearly for Swaray, fashion speaks volumes. Ingelmo “When I started my whole thing, I was like, ‘I shoes. want to have a look,’” says the singer, who left London for Manhattan shortly after she scored a record deal with John Legend’s HomeSchool Records in 2006. (She now lives in Brooklyn.)

“When I was growing up, [musicians] always s Thread had a look. It wasn’t just clothes you wore down Social’s the street.” Back in 2004, when her first album, silk robe. “The 18th Day,” made its debut in the U.K. Alexis Bittar on Richard Branson’s V2 Records, Swaray’s and Sequin look was “a bit more hip-hop, a bit more bangles; Bruno tomboyish,” she says. Things changed when Frisoni shoes. she “hit 25 and was like, you know what? These boobs and these legs ain’t going to look like this forever.” Skin, “boobage” and legs, then, all figured prominently in the Holly Golightly- from-the-hood image she crafted for the release of “Shine.” “That was my thing that I was gonna do,” she says bluntly. “No one else was doing it.” That is, until now. “Everyone and their auntie is doing Fifties [dresses] and corseted dresses and doing half a head shaved,” says Swaray. For the record, she recalls — half jokingly — rocking that hairstyle back in 2005, “when [Rihanna] PhotoS by Talaya Centeno; Styled by Mayte Allende WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 7 WWD.COM

was chilling in Barbados.” And so, goodbye, Audrey Pepa. Hello, “Minnie Tantrum.” “I think it’s just another level of confidence,” Swaray says of her new alter ego, which takes its name from the cartoonish voice Swaray adopts when she “takes the piss out of people.” Jumpsuits and slinky dresses are new essentials, as are separates including harem pants and sharply tailored jackets. (Her shoe fixation — she owns more than 400 pairs, taking up “90 percent of my house” — is unchanged.) And while she mentions Bianca Jagger, leggy Electric Feel entertainer Lola Falana and blaxploitation film star Tamara Dobson in conversation, Swaray distills her fashion m.o. into a practical one-liner: “Chic, nothing too crazy, nothing too clingy — just 100 percent free.” Adds the singer: “[Before], I was having to prove my point at every single step of my day, while still having to be

[Before], I was having to“ prove my point at every single step of my day, while still having to be classy and be a lady. Now… I just want to live. ”­ classy and be a lady. Now, I have no energy for it; I just want to live.” Swaray, who has lately been working a closely shorn do, keeps things breezy on her as-yet-untitled follow-up album, which will hit shelves before the end of the year. While 2008’s “Shine” was about “a bunch of pent-up anger at boys,” her upcoming release was inspired by “the experience of moving from London to New York….Crazy girls, crazy guys, crazy living situations — just having to adjust.” Pop and dance music, genres Swaray had not thought about dabbling in before, also influenced her sound. “That’s a whole new world that opened up to me,” she says of club- thumping anthems. “I’ve got four dance records on the new album — like, good dance records, not dance as in the Jennifer Lopez phenomenon.” It’s a group effort, to say the least. Swaray has been clocking long hours in the studio, collaborating on tracks with diverse types — French DJ David Guetta, Guns N’ Roses’ guitarist Slash, up-and-comer s Matthew Ames’ Kid Sister — and working with hit-makers such as silk crepe harem Swizz Beatz, Will.i.am and Wyclef Jean. (Given as pants (worn as a she is to odd-couple pairings, Swaray describes the dress). Tomoko vibe as “if Marvin Gaye and Coldplay were to be born Igarashi necklace.

blitzer in the rave scene.”) However, she’s not itching for a Kanye West rematch. “I’ve always been an artist on my own, but since I’ve been [in America], people kind of ennifer j associate me with him,” Swaray says. “So I’m thinking the smart thing to do would be to not do something with him. Maybe I’ll get him on a remix.” Swaray is much less hesitant when it comes to corporate and fashion matchmaking. In the last year, she worked with British shoe designer Jonathan

s Kelsey on the design of a handbag called the Belvie for 3.1 Phillip Belvedere Vodka; she created a T-shirt and posed for assistant: couture; fashion Lim’s Cupro H&M’s Fashion Against AIDS campaign, and hawked blazer and — exclusive song and all — Kraft Food’s Crystal Light Wolford’s drink powder. And just last month, Rachel Roy revealed nylon, cotton via Twitter that she and the singer are collaborating on a and elastane jewelry line for Rachel Rachel Roy, set to debut for spring. dress. Alexis As much as Swaray loves her Stateside life (which rimson for kissable

C Bittar earrings;

J includes a boyfriend of about a year — an American boy, A Burberry natch) she does have one gripe concerning a fellow U.K. bangles; Pollini export: Topshop. “It’s really, really, really packed,” she says shoes. of the store’s New York outpost. “It’s just like, you know your

makeup by heart is in one place and, for me, I walked into [the SoHo store] and I was like, no, this isn’t my home. I don’t like it. I’m gonna go.” Fast-fashion issues aside, Swaray is looking forward to her future in America. “Even though I still have something to say,” she says, pausing, “I don’t have to push as hard or force myself through anymore. I’ve still got some work to do, but now it’s on my terms, you know?”

PhotoS by Talaya Centeno; Styled by Mayte Allende dickey/hair rules; hair by — Nick Axelrod 8 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Better Mood Blossoms at Spring Market

By Karyn Monget lined and contemporary, in all classifications, including founda- Josie’s tions, undies, garters, sleep gowns, robes and boudoir accessories rainbow If the IntensIty of traffIc at the new york market such as slippers, sachets and embroidered pillows. maxi held the first week of august was any indication, the economy is the market kicked off with several events, including a cock- gown. on the road to recovery, although it looks like a slow climb. tail party with informal modeling at a new showroom at 183 with low inventories at retailers that have kept things tight dur- madison avenue for french bra specialist chantelle; a La mode ing the recession, buyers were scouring the mar- de france catwalk show staged by curveny at ket for replenishment goods with strong track the m2 Lounge club in manhattan, and a cock- records, as well as key items and a smattering of Novelty tail soiree for sliminizer, a new line of revers- fashion merchandise. pajamas ible shapewear in a variety of skin tones, hosted however, even with the bustling activity, the at Richard by the brand’s creator, kate Liegey, at the muse mood remained cautious and a majority of ven- Leads creative Group studio in new york. shapewear dors are still on hold for spring orders, mainly International. specialist spanx held a three-day open house from specialty boutique buyers that took a lot for the media at the Bryant Park Hotel, as did of notes and are expected to finalize spring or- fashion forms at the kitano hotel. ders by the end of september. madison avenue John schulman, executive vice president showrooms and the curveny lingerie trade fair of product development at frederick’s of were crammed with domestic and international hollywood, said senior management and buyers retailers, with stores such as nordstrom, neiman were on the hunt for fashion items. marcus, saks fifth avenue, Lord & taylor, “the newness and fashion is truly what has Bloomingdale’s and macy’s completing orders turned our business around,” said schulman. just before or during market week. “the customer is responding to fashion, not a top-booking ideas included: price point, and it’s clearly about perceived • Bras, undies, tank tops and T-shirts for ev- value. as a result, our regular price business is eryday wear. excellent. we’ve been making a concerted effort • Key items, such as shapewear, that have to offer smaller collections of newness to con- intrinsic value; easy lounge pieces that provide sumers that are fresh and provocative to get the comfort and have a look of casual sportswear, For more images, customer to buy. she knows that if she wants an and updated sleep tops and short caftans that can item, she has to buy it immediately. this has al- be worn as ready-to-wear. see WWD.com. lowed us to increase our turn dramatically.” • Panty table programs of classic and novelty maureen stabnau, senior vice president of undies that sell for three pairs for $27. merchandising at barenecessities.com, said her priority was “in- • Anything that has a dual-purpose function, such as camis and novation and creativity in design and fabric, as well as in presen-

MITRA corsets, that can be worn underneath a jacket or with jeans. tation, such as packaging or marketing.” • Novelty sleepwear and lounge items in bright solid colors “we need products that will stand out to the consumer, espe-

ROBERT such as turquoise, flamingo, yellow, lime, orange, french blue and cially online, and will give her something new to try,” stabnau

BY lavender, as well as soft, romantic prints or whimsical motifs. said. “the risk in economic times like this is to avoid taking risks. • Bridal looks, whether traditional and embellished or stream- you need to be aggressive to move forward and to position yourself

PHOTOS for when the consumer comes back. we were pleased that many vendors took this approach during this market.” regarding assortments, stabnau noted: “our desired mix of ba- sics compared to fashion hasn’t really changed. we are still look- ing for great new fashion to generate excitement, but the key to driving sales is basics that perform. we’ve seen a renewed interest in the cami-bra category, particularly from natori, cosabella and wacoal. shapewear, of course, continues to be a hot category. many vendors such as Bali and spanx have expanded or refreshed their assortments. the other excitement surrounding shapewear was the addition of color.” among the specialty boutique owners attending the curveny fair was tara solon, who was shopping for “exclusive items” for Mignonette, her shop in Providence, R.I. Solon said she has a con- servative, upscale customer who does “fantasize about wearing a sexy bra, like a bra by rosy.” “surprisingly, with the economy the way it is, this July was bet- ter than last July [in sales], and July is the slowest month of the year for me,” said solon. “I feel I’m successful because I work six to seven days a week and I give european service to my custom- ers. so, if I have to hand-deliver items to their house, I do it. my top brands are huit, elle macpherson Intimates, Bendon, Bleu marine, kenzo, eres, rosy and some mary Green. I carry halle Bob because I need some trendy prints, and I handpick everything because I know my customers’ sizes, so I buy for them.” cyla weiner, owner of sylene, a specialty boutique in chevy chase, md., said, “I’m looking for shapewear. Back fat is a big issue with my customers, and I’ve seen a lot of shapewear items that can add perceived value to the product and the purchase.” weiner said Devi Defined by annette was among the brands she was considering buying. michelle and mirelle marcos, two sisters who will be opening a lingerie shop in september called room service in monterrey, mexico, said they were looking for bridal lingerie and sleepwear. “right now, you can’t find a nice lingerie boutique in our city, so a lot of people drive to texas to buy upscale lingerie,” said michelle marcos. “we are looking for sexy items by designers like carol malony, basic merchandise and bridal, which is very impor- tant because people in monterrey are affluent, very traditional and there are always lots of weddings.” sizing up the market from a manufacturer’s viewpoint, seth morris, president of the carole hochman Design Group, said: “market, overall, was very good for us, and there was actually even a degree of optimism emerging. I think retailers have done a very good job controlling inventory levels. In some cases, we have seen business left on the table or deliveries advanced. this has been a healthier way to manage the business in these unpredictable times. there was very little immediate merchandise available. Like our retail partners, we have managed our inventory tightly. By largely cutting to order and keeping expectations within rea- son, there was very little to offer on an as-ready basis.” sonja winther, president of chantelle’s north america opera- tions, said, “for department stores [that] buy well in advance, we concluded orders at this market. all other retailers are reviewing now and will write paper within a month or so.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Canturi Brings Gems Movado Teams With Scharf on Watch Line By Sophia Chabbott To Madison Avenue A work by Kenny Scharf. MILLIONS OF MOVIEGOERS HAVE SEEN MOVADO IS KNOWN FOR ITS CLEAN, MOD- Stefano Canturi’s work, but they don’t know it. ern timepieces, but the brand’s collaboration The Australian designer made an elabo- with painter, sculptor and performance artist rate necklace worn by Nicole Kidman in Baz Kenny Scharf goes in a different direction. Luhrmann’s 2001 fi lm “Moulin Rouge.” More The company, which has long been in- recently, Canturi worked with Luhrmann to volved and contributed to the worlds of art create jewelry for Kidman in the 2008 movie and popular culture, has added Scharf to its “Australia.” roster of artist collaborators. Scharf, a proté- Now, Canturi, 43, is preparing for his own gé of Andy Warhol, is known for infusing pop close-up. The designer, who has worked for culture icons such as Judy Jetson into psyche- 23 years in his native Australia, opened his delic color schemes. fi rst Manhattan boutique last month at 42 Since 1987, Movado has invited art- East 66th Street, near Madison Avenue. The ists to collaborate on its Artists’ 700-square-foot shop echoes the hallmarks Series limited edition watch of Canturi with its linear, geometric bird’s- line, including Warhol, James eye maple paneling, diamond baguette-in- Rosenquist and Arman. spired cases and streamlined look. Efraim Grinberg, the firm’s Canturi’s fi ne jewelry is known for its chairman and chief executive intricate work with baguettes, which the officer, is an avid art collec- designer sets in a grid or quiltlike arrange- tor and even owns a piece from ment in gold for a look that is both Art Deco Scharf. His father, Movado Group and cubist in feel. Inc. founder Gedalio “Gerry” A watch by Kenny Scharf from Movado’s Artists’ Series. “Big diamonds aren’t really my thing,” he Grinberg, who died in January, said. “I like pieces that show character.” set a precedent early on to 100 limited edition pieces of each style will be sold for Key looks include an updated diamond support the arts, through or- $695. line bracelet hinged on baguettes and col- ganizations such as the John The Blurple Time, featuring a face depicting what lars that are fl exible. F. Kennedy Center for the the artist calls a “blobby purple” lava lamp-inspired The Manhattan shop has entry price Performing Arts and American image, and Starring the Star, portraying a rainbow of point pieces, such as a gold pendant for Ballet Theatre, as well as by concentric circles with a cartoon smiley face at the $1,300, and one-of-a-kind high jewelry-in- teaming with relevant artists to 12-hour, are taken from existing Scharf works. The re- spired pieces such a diamond pendant ear- fuse their work with the fi rm’s mainder, including Movado Time , in which Scharf toyed ring inset with large emerald cabochons. products. with the brand’s logo and the signature Museum Dial dot The average price is $4,000. Canturi is also Efraim Grinberg met Scharf at the 12-hour, are original works. keen on using black Australian sapphires. through mutual friends in 2007 and the “I look [at the Museum Dial] as a blank canvas,” said pairing seemed likely from the start. Scharf, who calls his work a blend of “pop, surrealism and “I’ve long admired Kenny’s work,” abstract expressionism.” said Grinberg. “He was one of the first Scharf has partnered with Gap and Todd Oldham on graffi ti artists and a contemporary of Keith special projects. He also collaborated with the late Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Graffi ti is Stephen Sprouse in the Eighties, but the work was about painting on something and improving For more never seen because Sprouse’s business foundered it by adding life and color to a background. We images, see before the debut of it. thought, ‘Let’s use the cleanliness of the Museum WWD.com. “I’ve always wanted to be out there in the big Dial as a canvas.’” world of consumerism, not just the consumerism Scharf took the iconic Nathan George Horwitt- of the gallery walls,” said Scharf. “I don’t differenti- designed, Bauhaus-inspired Museum Watch and ate from the different ways of making art. I’ve always illustrated the dials with his signature aesthetic. been into fashion and making it my own.” There are six watches in all that were produced in limited Up next for Scharf, who resides in both New York and runs. There are 25 limited edition box sets that will retail at Los Angeles, is “Barberadise,” a show that opens Sept. 12 at Movado stores for $3,495, starting next month. In addition, Honor Fraser, a Los Angeles gallery. Canturi’s Manhattan Montblanc Store Expands Brand’s Array boutique. By Rachel Brown female-oriented items. The The interior is segmented into LOS ANGELES — Montblanc’s new Montblanc three areas: the entry for watches store concept showcases the writ- store on and the most expensive jewelry ing instrument maker’s widening Rodeo pieces; the middle for more ap- product assortment, as it contin- Drive. proachable jewelry, cuff links ues to evolve into a broad luxury and money clips; the cash wrap goods brand. backed by an image of a soaring The 2,700-square-foot store, Mont Blanc — the highest moun- Earrings from Canturi. unveiled earlier this month tain in the Alps and Western on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Europe — and the back for what Hills, was designed in-house Schmitz called “lifestyle” prod- Lower in price than black diamonds or by the Compagnie Financière ucts like pens, belts, sunglasses, blue sapphires, black sapphires sparkle Richemont-owned brand. It re- and travel and leather items. and seem more precious than the price places a nearby 300-square-foot, Limited edition writing instru- would suggest. decade-old unit on the same ments are encased in displays “The days of spending a million dol- street that offered a limited selec- along the walls and a private VIP lars on a ring are over,” said Canturi, who tion. The additional space allows room is at the rear of the store. pointed out a diamond and black sapphire the brand to highlight categories The price range in the store is ring he retails for $15,000 that another jew- such as watches, jewelry, leather from $370 to $5 million. eler might sell for $150,000 in a traditional accessories and eyewear. “From a design point of view, blue sapphire. “People aren’t looking to “It is a totally new world, not it is closer to a jewelry store than overspend.” only in how we show the prod- the old location,” said Schmitz. Robert A. Donofrio, president of Canturi uct, but in what we show,” said Although he wouldn’t discuss and former chief executive offi cer of Asprey Jan-Patrick Schmitz, president sales fi gures, Schmitz said he ex- USA, said the positioning of the store off and chief executive officer of pects to “easily multiply turnover Madison Avenue was purposeful. Montblanc North America, who several times over” from the for- “It’s the thing to be discovered,” Donofrio added the new store offers 60 to mer Rodeo Drive store and “jew- said. “I think the timing is perfect, when the 70 percent more products than elry, leather and watches will in- little guy can put out his jewelry and people the previous location. “In a store crease proportionally.” Based on will look because everybody is not doing like this, we have expectations of recent annual average sales-per- something new.” [generating] increased visibility and a much different experi- square-foot estimates for Rodeo Drive, the Montblanc store The Manhattan boutique is expected ence to create more traction for the brand.” could notch around $2.2 million in annual sales. to do $2.5 million in retail sales within 12 The store’s exterior is made of European slate, and The Rodeo Drive store refl ects a retail strategy to move months. Donofrio said there are plans to the interior is done in light hues such as tans, grays and away from Montblanc’s previously small stores averaging open as many as four more stores in the whites, in contrast to the stark black-and-white interior 400 to 600 square feet toward larger locations from 1,400 to U.S., including locations in Chicago and of Montblanc’s previous Rodeo Drive location. Schmitz 3,000 square feet. The brand has revamped its Houston unit Houston. The brand also launched this year pointed to subtle links between the product and the look to refl ect this strategy and is planning to remodel two U.S. in Las Vegas. In Australia, Canturi has bou- of the store, including dark gray or blue design elements shops next year in a similar manner, according to Schmitz. tiques in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. being paired with male-oriented items and light brown with Montblanc has 34 stores in the U.S. and around 360 globally. — S.C. 10 WWD, monday, august 17, 2009 WWD.COM Keanan Duffty’s ‘Anti-Style’ Tome Béhar, Pact Underwear The book is broken down into chapters By Jean E. Palmieri “Rebel Rebel: “Rebel Rebel: for specific apparel items — Jean Genie On Eco-Friendly Mission Anti-Style,” by Keanan Duffty is a bit of a rebel Anti-Style,” by for denim, Vive Le Rock for T-shirts and Keanan Duffty By Rosemary Feitelberg — a British-born musican-turned-fash- Keanan Duffty hoodies, and Do the Do for hair, makeup with Paul Gorman. ion designer who counts David Bowie with Paul Gorman. and body art. “When you walk into vintage Industrial designer Yves Behar and Avril Lavigne among his clients — stores, there are different sections for tux- is banking on the idea that “change starts so it’s no wonder his new book is titled edos, prom dresses, etc.,” Duffty said. “We with your underwear.” “Rebel Rebel: Anti-Style.” The 144-page approached the book the same way.” That’s the motto of Pact, an e-commerce book, coauthored by Paul Gorman and And if Duffty and his partners at Oxford (Wearpact.com) underwear label that scheduled to be released on Sept. 8 by Collections are successful, there just might pledges sustainability and will benefit so- Universe Publishing, highlights the con- be a Rebel Rebel apparel collection some- cial and environmental causes. It is also a version of pop culture and fashion. time in the near future. Duffty had collabo- call to action for shoppers who most likely From Elvis Presley and James Dean rated with Oxford Collections, a division of have never given much thought to buy- to Johnny Depp and Gwen Stefani, Duffty Li & Fung, on his Keanan Duffty for Target ing underwear. Through a new partner- explores the “heritage and history” of and Bowie by Keanan Duffty collections of ship, Béhar and his San Francisco-based such fashion staples as the T-shirt and men’s wear for Target. Fuseproject design studio have helped de- leather jacket, and how they have in- Mark Wolk, president of Oxford velop Pact’s manufacturing, shipping and spired rebel style. Collections, said of the book: “There’s some- shopping experience. “By its very nature,” Duffty pens in thing really terrific here — icons challenging Everything for the product — the raw his introduction, “rebel style is inde- the fashion status quo.” He said he’s in dis- cotton, manufacturing and compostable finable. It’s like quicksilver: try and cussions “about how to leverage the title and create a brand.” bags used in shipping — is made in Turkey grasp it and it disappears. There is one WwD Wolk said he sees a line that would be centered on tops and within a 100-mile radius. Each pair of certainty, however: those people who Men’s would sit adjacent to premium denim collections. “I think underwear is enclosed in a reusable, co- possess it…look as though they couldn’t there’s a great opportunity for this brand in young men’s. I’m ordinating cloth bag made from material care less what anyone else thinks of them talking to midtier retailers now.” scraps. Convinced most people are tired of or what they are wearing. They exude confidence and charm, Although any apparel collection would come out after the trekking to the upper floors of department drawing all eyes to them.” book is released next month, Wolk said: “Our aim is not to Take the ubiquitous T-shirt, Duffty added in an interview. rush to market, but this is a particularly enticing concept and “No one thinks of a T-shirt as rebellious today,” he said, “but we see it as something with legs.” Pact’s sustainable it was outrageous when Brando wore it on screen.” And the To create buzz for the book, Duffty said there’s a Sirius underwear. white tuxedo jacket made famous by Humphrey Bogart was radio show scheduled for Sept. 10 and his band, Slinky also adopted by Sid Vicious. Items like these, Duffty believes, Vagabond, will play at John Varvatos’ Lower East Side store “have become real talismans of style.” in the former CBGB’s in early October. Thre3 Line to Enter Kmart for Back-to-School By Sharon Edelson the collection sold at J.C. Penney designed NEW YORK — Kmart is launching a new apparel brand, Thre3 by the Global Brand by the U.S. Polo Assoc., in time for the back-to-school sell- Concepts unit of Polo ing season. The collection for women, men, girls and boys Ralph Lauren Inc., and consists of jeans, sweaters, rugby shirts, polo shirts, woven Lauren’s Chaps, which is shirts, fleece, zip pocket hoodies, French terry blazers and exclusive to Kohl’s. The twill trousers. Prices range from $9.99 for children’s graphic Thre3 opening page on T-shirts and women’s tops to $24.99 for women’s signature the Kmart Web site shows boot-cut jeans. two neatly scrubbed men Jordache Ltd. is responsible for designing, manufacturing wearing khakis and jeans and other creative aspects of Thre3. The U.S. Polo Assoc. is a with polo shirts and two division of Jordache. Four deliveries a year are planned. All-American women in stores to get to the underwear departments Thre3 apparel is preppy, designed with the elite sport’s Thre3 is inspired by the game of polo. twill pants with a polo and then sorting through merchandise to classic iconography in mind. Long-sleeve red and navy polo and a woven blouse with find the right size, Béhar and Pact execu- shirts with white collars are decorated with small crests of a ruffles. The Thre3 logo features an American flag and says, tives wanted to come up with a more entic- galloping horse framed by two polo sticks and a laurel wreath. “Confident, iconic American style brought to you by the U.S. ing way to shop. Graphic T-shirts, meanwhile, have elaborate foil designs Polo Assoc.” “It would have been easy to buy some incorporating crests, crowns and botanicals with the words “Thre3 is very interesting because the Martha Stewart con- organic cotton, put a tag on it [saying so] “American Tradition. Superior Quality.” For girls, there’s a tract is up in January 2010,” said a Wall Street retail analyst, and make it oatmeal, but this has to be navy blazer with white piping and crest and a navy hoodie who requested anonymity. “It fills that void for a brand, al- absolutely unusual and fully integrated,” with a pink, white and turquoise logo. The brand takes its though it’s not in the same merchandise category. We know that Béhar said. “It’s exciting to be contrary to name from the captain of a polo team, who always wears the Chaps at Kohl’s and American Living at Penney’s have been every way the business is being done. In jersey number three. very successful. That type of classic American look is very ap- general, we designed every little experi- Thre3 seems to be taking a page from American Living, proachable and makes a lot of sense for a discount store.” ence. When you get this bright green bag in the mail, you will know exactly what it is. We wanted everything about the brand to be authentic.” Nordstrom Launching Children’s U.K. Brand Each season, nonprofits that strive for By David Moin we are all refreshed to find they have a similar sense of social and environmental change will ben- humor to ours — that means a lot to us Brits.” efit from sales of Pact underwear. The in- Just in time for back-to-school, Nordstrom has Boden was founded by Johnnie Boden in 1992 as a mail- augural collection features styles geared snapped up the U.S. retail exclusive order catalogue. He started with men’s, for the Dave Eggers-backed 826 National, on Mini Boden, a children’s collection later added women’s wear and, in 1996, ForestEthics and Oceana. Béhar whipped based in the U.K. launched the Mini Boden catalogue, of- up playful prints reminiscent of each The line is expected to make its fering modern basics and more tradi- group’s cause, and down the road, interna- debut beginning Wednesday in seven tional children’s clothing for boys and tionally recognized artists and designers Nordstrom doors within the infants’, tod- girls up to age 14. Aside from the direct will do the honors for other groups. Ten dlers’, girls’ and boys’ departments, but channels, the company has two retail percent of each purchase will support the the rollout begins in earnest in January, stores in the U.K., but none in the U.S. organizations and each pair of underwear when an additional 55 Nordstrom loca- In girls’, the line features funky is imprinted with a water-based transfer tions are scheduled to sell Mini Boden. coats, priced at roughly $60 to $80; detailing information about each cause. At that time, the line also will be sold on brightly colored dresses, $38 to $58, and Three styles are available for women nordstrom.com. In the U.S., the collection accessories, nighties, T-shirts, trousers, and men, with retail prices ranging from is available only by mail order or online. jeans and underwear. $20 to $28. Consumers can shop by cause, “We’ve admired the Mini Boden brand In other Nordstrom news, the re- fit or print design. First-year projected vol- from afar for some time,” said Gary tailer completed a new three-year, ume is about 65,000 units, said chief execu- Flynn, Nordstrom’s kids’ wear national $650 million senior unsecured revolv- tive officer Jason Kibbey, who cofounded merchandise manager. “Our customers ing credit facility, maturing in August Pact with chief creative officer Jeff Denby. are responding to special and unique 2012 and replacing one that was set to They first shared their prototypes with merchandise, and the Mini Boden line mature in November 2010. At present, Béhar when he spoke at the University of embodies those characteristics. We love there are no outstanding borrowings California at Berkeley in fall 2007. After the brand’s pure design sensibility.” under the revolver. The lead banks graduation, they contacted him about doing “A growing number of our American arranging the facility were Banc of something on a more formal level. T-shirts catalogue and Internet customers America and Wells Fargo. Nordstrom and socks may be added to the collection. have been asking us to open shops,” operates 111 full-line stores, 61 Rack “This is as much about creating a long- said Robin Howard, director of chil- Nordstrom will be the one retailer in the U.S. clearance units, two Jeffrey boutiques lasting business as it is about creating a dren’s wear and men’s wear at Boden. to sell Mini Boden children’s wear. and one Nordstrom clearance unit. The unique and different category,” Béhar said. “Partnering with Nordstrom gives us an initial seven doors selling Mini Boden “What people really want today is to feel ideal solution. Their quality and customer-focused culture are in Seattle; Skokie, Ill.; Paramus, N.J.; McLean, Va.; San good about themselves and what they do. matches ours. After working with Nordstrom’s management, Jose and Brea, Calif., and Dallas. Design has the ability to do these things.” WWD, monDay, august 17, 2009 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD WHERE DID THEY GO?: White House Social Secretary WWD reporters who had designed her dress, although a White House spokeswoman later Desirée Rogers is on yet another magazine cover, this time identified it as Halston. of her hometown high-end glossy, Michigan Avenue. Rogers’ first magazine cover as social secretary was in the Wall Street Journal’s glossy The magazine scored a brief interview with Rogers magazine WSJ. The accompanying story noted that Rogers had been criticized for her New about her community activities, but the photos come York Fashion Week visit, and described the photo shoot for the story: “Rogers seems of two from its Niche Media corporate sibling, Capitol File. One minds about whether to wear an Oscar de la Renta ballgown provided by WSJ. for a shot in aspect, though, distinguishes the two: fashion credits. the First Lady’s Garden. With a negative from the deputy press secretary, Rogers demurs.” Whereas in May, Capitol File readers were informed that The magazine credited Rogers with wearing Prada, Cartier, Jil Sander and $110,000 Rogers was wearing a Louis Vuitton coat ($3,370) and earrings from Fred Leighton, among others. — Irin Carmon freshwater pearl and diamond earrings by Jorge Adeler ($7,900), the more recent Michigan Avenue issue ignores COLE’S COMMAND: Kenneth Cole is doing its part to get people back in stores, beginning with fashion entirely, both in the credits and the story. a billboard in New York City that will be unveiled on Sept. 1. The brand’s new campaign A spokeswoman for Niche Media said, “The magazine theme, “Pledge Allegiance to the Bag — Kenneth Cole; your country needs you...to shop” did not focus on the credits as it was a personality-driven will “remind consumers that shopping is not only their right, but also their patriotic story about Desirée and her efforts and her connection to duty,” said a spokesman. The campaign will run in newspapers, store windows and on the Chicago.” She declined to discuss it further. company’s Web site. Rogers has a tough line to walk between what appears to be her natural inclination In addition to the ads, the designer has created a limited edition eco-friendly tote. The plan toward glamour — for example, sitting next to Anna Wintour at a fashion show — and is to donate 100 percent of the sales tax from the totes to “pay down the national debt.” The the sensitivity of representing the White House during an economic crisis. At a cocktail spokesman added that for Fashion’s Night Out on Sept. 10, Kenneth Cole will host an event at preceding the White House Correspondents’ Dinner in May, Rogers declined to tell the firm’s Rockefeller Center store with a live performance by Matisyahu. — Amy Wicks Henri Bendel Plans Growth At Calif. Malls Henri Bendel iS GrOWinG THE EDGE YOU NEED its presence on the West Coast. The new York-based luxury retailer, owned by Ohio-based FRESHNESS • TREND • VITAL ENERGY limited Brands inc., is launch- ing its accessories, beauty and gift concept this fall at los Angeles’ Beverly Center mall and at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif. — about a year after its debut in San diego’s Fashion Valley shopping center. “When we look at the data of who shops in our new York store, our number-one customer base outside of new York comes out of California,” said ed Bucciarelli, chief executive officer of Henri Bendel. “As we analyze our Web sales, the same is true.” The mall-based concept, which will open in the Southern California malls in november, is about 2,000 square feet and will carry Bendel-branded merchan- dise such as handbags, jewelry, scarves, specialty gifts, fragranc- es, chocolates, teas and cookies. Our number-one Over 500 lines of Juried ReadyToWear and Accessories “customer base outside of New AUGUST 31  SEPTEMBER 2, 2009 York comes out of THE VENETIAN HOTEL & RESORT, LAS VEGAS California. — Ed” Bucciarelli, Attend: 8666966020 | Exhibit: 2126864412 Henri Bendel

Under the retailer’s new strat- accessoriestheshow.com | modalasvegas.com egy, the Fifth Avenue flagship is being downsized from three to two selling floors as Bendel’s concen- trates on its most profitable areas while getting out of apparel. The flagship will offer accessories, handbags, jewelry, gifts, beauty and fragrance from third-party vendors and private label. California isn’t the only place the new store will be turning up. The next location will open in September at dallas’ northPark Remember to visit MRket Center, with doors at The Mall at Short Hills in Short Hills, n.J., and The Exclusive Menswear Show at King of Prussia Mall in King of Prussia, Pa., to follow in October. The company operates six locations: new York City; Columbus, Ohio; Boca raton and Aventura, Fla.; San diego, Calif., and a store in Troy, Mich., which opened last month. Properties of Business Journals, Inc. — Anne Riley-Katz 12 WWD, monday, august 17, 2009 WWD.COM Contemporary Retailers Face Tight Credit Continued from page one fall season. Even though Intermix declined to give a deposit and doesn’t set terms for openness to buy all but essential items limited. The result has been sharp sales de- payments, she sent the first delivery in late July. clines for stores and an increasingly complex credit picture for their suppliers. “I still wanted to take the order because it’s so big,” Coker said. “I hope they’re paying.” And the pressure appears to be building on retailers in the sector, from Intermix Michelle Jonas, the founder and designer of Los Angeles-based Michelle Jonas to Barneys New York’s Co-op, Calypso to Scoop. Travelwear, learned an important lesson from her first experience working with Barneys New York had problems with factors not approving credit in the past Intermix. The retailer requested 280 units of Jonas’ popular $390 floor-grazing gauze and year, in part because of a lack of financial information from its Dubai-based owner lace dress that has been worn by celebrities such as Angelina Jolie and Jennifer Lopez. Istithmar, which ultimately gave the chain a $25 million cash infusion. Now Barneys Despite having misgivings over shipping such a large order of a summer style in has brought Perella Weinberg Partners on board to help restructure the retailer’s July, Jonas manufactured the merchandise in Southern California and shipped it to debt and factors are approving orders — but there are still concerns regarding the Intermix. About three weeks later, Intermix told her it wanted to return the 200 dress- specialty chain’s sales volume and bottom line. es it couldn’t sell. Michael Appel, managing director of Quest Turnaround Advisors, who advised the two “I’m upset that Intermix shouldn’t have bought that many dresses,” she said. financial investors who bailed Barneys out of bankruptcy, believes Barneys Co-op is facing Jonas suspected Intermix placed the large initial order with her because it tried pressure from lackluster sales. “There’s so much competition. A lot of Co-op’s merchan- to fill in gaps left by lean inventory in the beginning of summer. She said she has no dise is in jeans, and with Seven For All Mankind opening stores as well as Lucky Brand choice but to take the unsold dresses back lest the retailer discount them and damage Jeans, unless Co-op can make some distinction, the competition is brutal,” he said. her brand. Fortunately, she said there are other stores in New York and Miami that Neiman Marcus Group, owned by private equity firms TPG and Warburg Pincus, can take the dresses Intermix couldn’t sell. has also been hurt by sagging sales, and factors tightened credit earlier this year. Next time, she said, “I will be very careful about the quantities that they take and The concern surrounding Neiman seems to have eased a bit, so there’s little con- have them pay COD [cash on delivery] when they arrive or 50-50 to at least cover costs cern now about its contemporary Cusp concept. Part of the renewed confidence stems for the goods.” from Neiman’s renegotiation last month of its asset-based revolving credit agreement, On the other hand, David Lazar, a partner in Los Angeles-based knit brand Twenty, pushing its maturity date back to January 2013 from October 2010. The company said said Intermix has been paying like clockwork. One of the first retailers to carry Twenty the facility, as well as a cash balance of more than $250 million, gave it enough liquid- after it launched last spring, Intermix stands as one of the vendor’s top three accounts. ity to support growth. “Ethically, they’re one of the best out there,” he said. “They’re not out there can- Appel isn’t concerned about Neiman Marcus or Cusp, saying the purveyor of luxury celing orders.” fashion can weather the slowdown in consumer spending. He also thinks Scoop and Lazar did notice Intermix has been reshuffling deliveries, such as requesting or- Intermix have a reason to exist because the “two have great merchandising and put ders arrive about a week later than scheduled. Still, he said he looks at that adjust- outfits together in an interesting way for customers. ment as a positive for the retailer. “You’re being flexi- They do not merchandise by vendor classification as An Intermix interior. ble, and you’re also planning your business with peaks most retailers.” and valleys [in sales],” he said. However, he sees challenges ahead for all retailers Calypso and Lisa Kline were cited as other retail- in the sector: “That younger consumer, when things ers for which factors are neither issuing credit approv- recover, will be shopping again, but maybe not at the als nor advancing against client accounts. same level as pre-2008.” Factors aren’t approving credit for stores such as However, Scoop is battling factors no longer ap- Patricia Field as well as Ron Robinson’s boutique in proving their orders, as well as employee lawsuits. Fred Segal, but they are advancing against client ac- Several factors said they hope Scoop’s private equity counts if the vendors choose to take on the risk, said parent Yucaipa Cos. will become more forthcoming a credit source. with financial information. “We are able to pay our suppliers and we are get- Joining the list of contemporary retailers said to be ting credit,” Robinson said. “Our vendors will supply failing the credit check test is Intermix. Factors in the us because we’ve never missed a payment, and we last month stopped approving orders to the roughly have amazing relationships with them.” 24-store chain, according to financial sources, forcing Robinson said it has been harder to work with CIT vendors to ship the stores at their own risk. Group Inc., which was pulled back from the jaws of “In this difficult economic climate and especially bankruptcy by bondholders recently. since we are dealing with these young, up-and-coming “We have amazing credit and we always pay, and brands that need that financial security as their back- they’ve been difficult,” Robinson said. “With the econ- bone, we have made it our absolute priority to ensure omy being so bad and everything being slow in gen- we pay our vendors on time and continue to nurture and grow these relationships,” eral, we became slow to pay for a little while and took a 15-, 20-, 30-day longer period said Khajak Keledjian, chief executive officer of Intermix. “We are really proud to say to pay — we’ve since cleared that up, and everything is on track.” that we are 100 percent paid up on all of our vendor bills and have done so in a timely Credit specialists said Artizia and New York Look are among the stores getting credit and responsible manner.” approval, while Barami and Atrium are being approved only on an order-by-order basis. Citing a confidentiality agreement with Intermix, Gary Wassner, president of “It’s impossible to pay on time when it’s a cash flow issue, but over the last six Hilldun Factors, declined to discuss its financial results. He did say, however, that months we have been dedicated to paying what we need to and we have managed to while his firm is not approving orders, Hilldun is “lending against client invoices.” pay all of our outstanding bills,” said Sam Ben-Avraham, president of Atrium. In a typical factoring arrangement where there is approval of credit, the risk of non- “We are paying our vendors,” added Alan Fernandez, a buyer for Atrium. “Are we payment of invoices is on the factor. When a vendor client elects to ship without credit paying them on time? No. We are working to make sure they are paid as close to the approval, and its factor is lending against invoices, then the factoring firm has the right deadline as possible, but the reality is, a 30-day deadline is nowhere near enough to seek reimbursement of the loan made against client invoices from the client. time in today’s day and age. Despite the nonapproval of credit by factors, financial sources said Intermix has “We don’t move product as quickly as we were, so in most cases, there is been good about paying its bills and responds to phone calls promptly when collec- no way we can pay in a 30-day period,” added Fernandez. “We are not im- tion managers want answers. In contrast, they said other retailers have been far less mune to what’s happening in the world, but we are doing our best to man- responsive to requests for information on when payment will be made. age inventory and doing what we can in order to survive and stand out strong.” “We are shipping Intermix, have a strong financial arrangement and are getting Failure to receive credit approval doesn’t always mean bad credit. It could be the chain paid on time,” said Jane Siskin, chief executive officer of L’Koral Inc., which sells the isn’t providing sufficient information from which any decision could be made. LaRok and Elizabeth and James brands to Intermix. Ultimately, the problems within contemporary can be traced to soft demand, and “We are shipping them. In fact, our business with them has been really strong and we retailers in this business face tough choices. While mainstream retailers may be re- are completely paid to date,” added Adam Lippes, founder and creative director of Adam. warded for buying conservative merchandise in limited quantities, it clearly runs But according to suppliers, Intermix appears to have different payment schedules against the grain of contemporary. In the downturn, “there’s more reliance on what for different vendors, with some being paid a lot faster than others. In addition, the has proven to sell through. That diminishes innovation in fashion,” noted Triangle retailer may be reshuffling deliveries, asking vendors to delay some shipments. Capital’s Kestenbaum. Melissa Coker, who designs the contemporary line Wren in Los Angeles, ignored “I see no reason why existing retailers can’t adapt. They can be good businesses, but her factor’s recommendation not to do business with Intermix. Not only was it her right now it is hard to be in a mature market during a terrible economy,” the banker said. first time selling to the established retailer, but it was also her largest order for the — With contributions from Khanh T.L. Tran, Julee Kaplan and Anne Riley-Katz Fashion Scoops GET THEM WHILE THEY LAST: Dying for a pair of Levi’s Brain on West Broadway. The selection — which is limited edition and Kong and Seoul, including select retailers that sell Comme des Dead jeans? Well, J. Crew men’s stores in lower Manhattan re-created using the original techniques from 1873 — include Garçons Play, and in October, distribution will grow with a second recently snapped up the last of Levi’s Vintage Clothing stock and the Dead Stock from 1967, the Brain Dead from 1947 and the launch in the same Comme des Garçons stores as well as top are selling the jeans (and one style of sack coat) exclusively at Barren Land from 1937. They retail from Converse retailers in the U.S., Canada and its new shop at 484 Broadway as well as the Liquor Store unit $195 to $395. The Sack Coat is from A Comme des China (the collaboration will be known as the Twenties and sells for $298. Frank Garçons-Converse Comme des Garçons Play for Converse). Muytjens, J. Crew’s vice president of men’s collaboration. According to a spokesperson, “Converse design, said the iconic pieces “replicate has a long history of being on the feet the fabric and wash” of the originals and of those who have chosen to disrupt the are even “woven on the original looms.” As status quo”; the collaboration was born out of Thursday, there were between 40 and of Rei Kawakubo’s affection for a particular 110 pieces of each style, Muytjens said, Chuck Taylor All Star model from the “and when they’re gone, they’re gone.” Converse archives that was originally produced in the Fifties for the U.S. COMME DOES CONVERSE, AGAIN: After the successful launch of its Army. Using details from that model, Converse and Kawakubo shoe collaboration in Japan, Comme des Garçons and Converse came up with the four prototypes, which will retail for $100 are dashing into a wider market — this time with four styles (two each. Comme des Garçons isn’t the only high-fashion brand

photo by Steve eichner photo by high-top, two oxford). The shoes will be sold at the end of August with which Converse is aligning itself: The company plans The Levi’s Vintage display at the SoHo store. in Comme des Garçons stores in New York, Paris, London, Hong collaborations with Missoni and (N)umber (N)ine later this fall. WWD, monDay, august 17, 2009 13 WWD.COM Financial Gildan 3rd-Qtr. Net Falls Retail Apparel Prices Increase in July GILDAN ACTIvEWEAR INC. REPoRTED LoWER THIRD-qUAR- ter earnings that beat analysts’ estimates and forecast its market By Liza Casabona coming months. share would rise next year. Prices for all goods and services were flat in In the three months ended July 5, profits at the Montreal-based WASHINGTON — Retail apparel prices bucked July, but fell 2.1 percent compared with a year T-shirt firm fell 23.8 percent to $41.5 million, or 34 cents a diluted the trend in July, rising for the second straight earlier. The decline was the sharpest year-to- share, from $54.5 million, or 45 cents a share, in the same period month, while economic pressures fueled the year falloff since at least January 1950, beating during fiscal 2008. sharpest year-to-year decline in retail prices the previous record drop in May when prices Excluding a restructuring charge of 3 cents a share and income so far in 2009, the Labor Department said in its fell 1.3 percent. The so-called core prices, which tax benefit of 5 cents a share, Gildan’s earnings per share totaled 32 Consumer Price Index. exclude the volatile food and energy sectors, in- cents in the quarter. Analysts polled by Yahoo Finance had expected Retail apparel prices rose a seasonally ad- creased 0.1 percent in July and rose 1.5 percent adjusted EPS of 29 cents. justed 0.6 percent in July and increased 1.1 compared with a year earlier. Third-quarter revenues slid 19.2 percent in the three months to percent compared with a year earlier. Apparel The steep year-over-year decline in con- $307.8 million from $380.8 million in 2008. prices had increased 0.7 percent in June after sumer prices was driven by lower gas prices, Laurence Sellyn, executive vice president and chief financial and falling 0.2 percent in May. said Nigel Gault, chief U.S. economist at IHS administrative officer, said on a call with investors that unfavorable Men’s apparel prices declined 1.1 percent in Global Insight. Gas prices hit record highs product mix, increased promotional wholesale activity and exchange July and fell 0.9 percent in 12-month compari- last summer. rates contributed to lower sales. sons. Women’s apparel prices increased 1.1 per- Retail prices for women’s dresses increased While declining to provide specific sales guidance, Sellyn said cent last month and rose 1.9 percent compared 1.2 percent in July and spiked 9.2 percent year- the company expects revenues to improve in the coming quarters. with July 2008. over-year. Women’s suits and separates rose “We are actively working on new retail programs, which we are ex- Apparel prices resisted a general downward 1.4 percent month-to-month and 0.5 percent pecting to have a meaningful impact in our sales growth in 2010 com- trend in pricing for consumer goods in recent in 12-month comparisons. Prices in the broad pared to 2009,” Sellyn said. months, economists said. Early discounting, his- women’s underwear, nightwear, sportswear “What will drive our growth will be our own initiatives in terms torically low apparel prices, seasonal factors, and accessories category were up 1 percent of market share in our existing markets, international expansion shrinking inventory levels and volatile economic in July and 2.9 percent year-to-year. Women’s and our major thrust to go into retail,” he added. factors all impacted the CPI, economists said. outerwear prices declined 4.6 percent in July, Gross margin in the third quarter fell 220 basis points to 24.4 per- “I’m very surprised,” said Charles McMillion, but rose 0.7 percent compared with a year ear- cent from 26.6 percent a year ago. Sellyn said slight reductions in cotton president and chief economist with MBG lier. Girls’ apparel prices were up 1.7 percent prices would have a positive effect on margins in the first half of 2010. Information Services, of the price increases. month-to-month and 0.3 percent in 12-month In the first three quarters of fiscal 2009, net income at Gildan fell With the exception of a spike in transporta- comparisons. 57.5 percent to $52.9 million, or 44 cents a dilute share, from $124.5 tion costs earlier this summer, apparel prices Men’s suits, sport coats and outerwear saw million, or $1.02 a share, a year ago. Year-to-date revenues fell 20.4 have risen at a faster annual rate than any other prices fall 2.1 percent in July and 9.1 percent percent to $736.6 million from $925 million in 2008. category in the last three months, he said. year-to-year. Prices for men’s shirts and sweat- — Matthew Lynch “Apparel retailers got away with price in- ers declined 1.2 percent month-to-month, but creases, which runs counter to everything going rose 0.9 percent compared with a year earlier. on in the rest of the economy,” said Richard Men’s pants and shorts prices declined 1.4 per- Yamarone, director of economic research at cent in July and dropped 0.2 percent year-to- Ellen Tracy Faces Chap. 7 Petition Argus Research Corp. year. Men’s furnishings increased 0.1 percent NEW YORK — Four Asian manufacturers filed an involuntary Chapter Retail sales results did not show a signifi- from the previous month and rose 2.5 percent 7 petition against Ellen Tracy seeking to liquidate the company. cant increase in consumer purchases this sum- in 12-month comparisons. Boys’ apparel prices The filing was made on Friday in Manhattan bankruptcy court. mer. Economists said the relationship between increased 0.5 percent in July and 4 percent from The four petitioners are: Shanghai K&J Apparel Co. Ltd., sales figures and prices bears watching in the a year earlier. Shanghai, which owed $1.5 million; Chinamine Trading, Kowloon, Hong Kong, $676,000; Excellent Jade Ltd., Kwai Chung, New Territories, Hong Kong, $1.2 million, and Shanghai Mandarin Fashion Ltd., Shanghai, $432,000. Kenneth Rosen of Lowenstein Sandler in Rosalind, N.J., who rep- resents the petitioners, said Ellen Tracy has 20 days to respond to the filing. He said the filing was necessary and called it an “alterna- tive of last resort” because the debts were “substantially” overdue. Rosen also said he is seeking to have a bankruptcy trustee “in- vestigate what happened to the Ellen Tracy license,” referring to the one in existence before RvC came into the picture. Fashionology Group, which is winding down its manufacturing busi- ness, last month sold the operational division of Ellen Tracy to RvC Enterprises. RvC was given the license for use of the Ellen Tracy brand for women’s sportswear in both the better and bridge categories. Brand Matter is the company that owns the intellectual property of Ellen Tracy. As reported, Ellen Tracy under RvC is examining whether to pull out of the bridge market and introduce a better-priced collection exclusively with a retailer. RvC is said to be in talks with several chains, including Macy’s, Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor. Neither Windsong Brands LLC nor Hilco, co-owners of Brand Matter and Fashionology Group, could be reached for comment. — Vicki M. Young, with contributions from Lisa Lockwood Swank Posts Profit in 2nd Qtr. SWANK INC. RECoRDED A SECoND-qUARTER PRoFIT, vERSUS a year-ago loss, on higher sales and reduced selling and administra- tive expenses. STABILITY In the three months ended June 30, New York-based Swank reg- istered net income of $401,000, or 7 cents a diluted share, compared with a net loss of $128,000, or 2 cents, in the year-ago quarter. Sales IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. advanced 2.9 percent to $26.5 million from $25.8 million as strength in belts and personal leather accessories and fewer markdowns, as well as cooperative advertising expenses, offset weakness in its For over 50 years, IDB Bank has been a luxury business, some of it the result of large initial orders shipped mainstay of the fashion and garment industries. during the first half of 2008, when Swank entered the luxury sector. Gross margin declined to 30.6 percent of sales from 33 percent Our conservative approach ensures we’re a year ago. But a 13.6 percent cut in selling and administrative ex- here for you today—and tomorrow. Let our penses, to $7.4 million, without reducing its head count, and a more factoring experts put together a custom plan than 50 percent reduction in interest expense, to $95,000, helped that works for you. lock in the return to profitability. John Tulin, chairman and chief ex- ecutive officer, said bank borrowings and inventory levels had been Call us today to discuss your factoring cut 46 and 28 percent, respectively, since the start of the fiscal year. and business banking needs. “Accessories always do relatively well in a recession, and we’re for- tunate to be working with price points that work in a mediocre to rotten Harold Dundish, SVP economy,” Tulin said. “of course, we’d like more people to be working, (212) 551-8778 but we’ve been very aggressive in terms of market share. There are a lot of stores where accessories are opening price points, and that’s helped.” In the six months, Swank, which markets several of its own and licensed brands, registered net income of $122,000, or 2 cents a di- luted share, versus a loss of $539,000, or 9 cents, as sales remained IDB Bank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank of New York. Member FDIC flat at $50.5 million. — Arnold J. Karr 14 WWD, monday, august 17, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more Retail Stocks Retreat 3% for Week Weekly Stocks financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. By Matthew Lynch 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Faltering consumer confidence sent re- tail stocks down 1.7 percent Friday, contributing to a 3 55.83 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 19.5 22762986 34.25 1.44 8.00 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 0 7.00 0.00 percent decline for the week. 26.14 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 17.9 1292586 14.59 -1.08 1.44 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 11.5 1074566 0.70 -0.02 On Friday, the Reuters/University of Michigan 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 848483 0.57 0.04 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 6885482 14.93 -0.20 Surveys of Consumers said its Consumer Confidence 38.74 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 15.2 8840488 35.91 -1.59 42.50 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 12.0 1673284 37.97 -1.97 Index fell during the first two weeks of August to 63.2 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.8 1936031 25.29 0.21 18.50 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 1389973 9.15 -0.02 from 66. Economists’ median estimates had been 68.5, 10.25 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 80.0 1622042 3.67 -0.21 47.80 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 34952271 11.16 -0.87 the news agency said. 18.00 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 19.7 16181680 14.69 -0.90 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 18.4 22432100 51.73 -1.78 Investors took the news relatively hard and pushed 27.55 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 8744740 12.40 -0.50 20.76 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) 28.7 634462 10.09 -0.44 the S&P Retail Index down 6.21 points to 361.69 425.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 25.1 3517390 341.25 -3.75 17.00 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 13.4 163910 10.65 -0.45 Friday, as the Dow Jones Industrial Average closed 44.72 14.40 Avon (AVP) 32.6 14133329 32.22 -0.15 22.16 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 39.2 20166561 14.18 -0.78 down 0.8 percent, or 76.79 points, to 9,321.40. The Dow fell 0.5 percent for the week. 11.11 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 20.7 2462944 6.57 -1.00 20.14 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 19376140 3.67 -0.51 The unforeseen drop in confidence was driven by 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 16.9 2874131 34.07 -1.42 3.10 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 24.0 2673777 2.06 -0.45 a steep decline in consumers’ opinion of current per- 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 10.8 1227034 6.70 0.22 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 18.3 3900109 60.54 0.28 sonal finances, said Brian Bethune, chief U.S. financial 2.44 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 34519 0.47 0.00 27.99 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 40.1 4041152 20.02 0.34 economist at IHS Global Insight, in a research note. 43.39 27.26 BJs (BJ) 12.9 7575598 31.05 -0.34 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 23.6 3489289 17.70 0.17 “The preliminary report on consumer sentiment is 0.29 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 8800 0.07 0.04 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 17.0 6178565 65.62 1.92 a sober reminder of how much pressure households 2.80 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 54213 1.55 -0.35 70.98 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 19.7 14239796 26.33 -1.07 are under in terms of the huge cumulative declines in 5.67 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 379284 3.94 -0.33 22.96 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 89557610 15.31 -0.68 household wealth over the recession, trend increases 18.44 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 1222375 7.86 -0.13 16.64 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 14.9 1710664 15.36 1.36 in unemployment and underemployment and down- 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 11.1 6420491 26.54 -1.54 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 10.3 36777898 332.10 -17.40 ward pressure on wages, salaries and benefits as com- 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 10136486 5.26 0.48 26.43 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 22.2 2981966 23.18 -0.58 panies have clamped down on costs,” Bethune wrote. Earlier in the week, however, markets got a boost 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 15801769 478.90 4.90 26.17 4.65 Movado (MOV) - 607858 12.57 -0.66 from the Federal Reserve, which came out with a rela- 17.73 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 14.7 2613128 15.60 -0.38 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 14.1 4830083 20.36 -1.04 tively positive view of the economy. 13.90 1.41 Caché (CACH) - 206499 4.84 -0.11 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2634043 4.26 -0.26 The Fed said the economy had been “leveling out” 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 17.1 7735723 31.28 -1.26 0.35 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 1267160 0.27 0.02 since its June meeting and that financial markets had 29.49 13.79 Carter (CRI) 17.0 3792317 24.89 -1.17 68.00 38.24 Nike (NKE) 19.1 11634653 56.86 -1.21 improved and household spending had stabilized 4.95 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 537649 2.39 0.11 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 12924 0.10 0.03 some despite continued job losses. 21.72 11.30 Cato (CTR) 15.4 1983451 17.50 -4.00 37.00 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 17.9 33033686 27.87 -2.43 “Businesses are still cutting back on fixed investment 23.28 1.92 CBL (CBL) 271.7 14110276 8.08 -0.10 22.98 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 18.7 165765 19.85 -1.00 and staffing, but are making progress in bringing invento- 6.80 2.05 CCA (CAW) 25.0 10051 4.00 0.01 29.02 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 458095 13.79 -0.44 ry stocks into better alignment with sales,” the Fed said. 0.77 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 135586 0.56 -0.04 8.41 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 2934507 4.29 0.46 Of the 174 apparel, retail and beauty firms tracked by WWD, 56 booked gains for the week, while 113 de- 16.32 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) - 1228201 14.04 -1.67 7.15 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 391699 1.72 -0.13 clined and five were flat. 6.34 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 3633005 5.65 0.47 24.29 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 2672291 6.27 -0.29 Second-quarter earnings season for retailers began 82.00 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 16.5 787375 62.85 0.57 26.84 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 364267 8.85 0.15 last week, with many stores posting weaker results, 26.25 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 13.8 150811 20.53 0.06 45.77 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 25.1 5411009 34.67 -1.56 but still managing to overcome relatively low expecta- 12.88 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 18789674 11.82 -0.86 1.20 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 11400 0.50 -0.01 tions from Wall Street. 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 11.4 2314894 32.03 -2.46 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 17.4 8218115 65.46 -5.63 Investors will get more information about how 12.00 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 764106 7.53 -0.91 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 26.4 3292232 79.02 -1.53 retailers fared in the second quarter and how they 33.73 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 18.5 7438363 26.88 0.08 24.32 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 11.8 467276 16.86 -0.31 are planning for back-to-school and beyond when 31.47 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 21.5 814061 29.73 -1.01 9.20 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 5438411 2.28 0.05 Saks Inc., TJX Cos., Sears Holdings Corp., Gap Inc., 31.93 11.41 Coach (COH) 15.3 23651806 28.55 -1.84 8.19 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 10.6 16850 7.88 0.23 AnnTaylor Stores Corp. and a host of others report 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4827368 6.97 -0.66 24.10 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 14.4 754563 9.89 -0.31 quarterly results this week. 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.4 11089957 71.75 0.73 70.95 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 38.1 9388682 32.97 -2.18 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) - 6647077 14.45 -2.17 5.17 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 715855 3.90 0.57 49.49 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 16.8 1704900 36.96 0.81 14.85 2.30 Revlon (REV) 4.4 1285883 5.32 -0.72 Escada USA Files Chapter 11 71.00 38.17 Costco (COST) 19.3 15474628 48.63 -1.47 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 14.0 15267158 28.56 1.52 Escada USA Inc. filed for Chapter 11 in the 6.87 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 40823646 6.32 0.83 45.95 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 18.4 6800908 44.40 -1.09 U.S. Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of 0.20 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 16355 0.10 0.00 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 4918952 0.44 0.01 New York on Friday, a day after the parent company, 127.95 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 11.5 2032076 70.64 1.52 12.25 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 25214812 5.84 0.00 Escada AG, opened preliminary insolvency proceed- 3.50 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 5.1 472224 2.87 0.00 10.50 2.66 Sally Beauty (SBH) 15.2 4596703 7.20 -0.25 ings in Munich. 9.00 2.72 Delta Apparel (DLA) 10.8 56058 9.04 0.06 108.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 75.4 4525670 77.10 -0.70 The company said the Chapter 11 filing is intended 23.74 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 97871 21.60 -0.09 106.43 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 41.9 18041033 62.69 -3.98 to stabilize Escada’s important American business, which in fiscal 2007-2008 contributed about 20 percent 41.55 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 27346038 8.30 0.11 20.54 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 22.7 3181026 14.60 -0.20 of Escada brand sales. Escada furthermore described 15.37 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 3510358 10.46 -1.13 2.39 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 1250 0.68 0.01 the move as “a crucial first step in the overall restruc- 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 15.9 3114274 15.90 -0.68 16.33 3.52 Stage Stores (SSI) - 1108294 12.81 -0.49 turing of the group.” 16.32 6.66 DSW (DSW) 25.4 1147402 12.99 0.15 12.02 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 1184927 11.32 -0.58 The U.S. filing was expected considering the 19.14 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 76.4 19138 16.55 -0.17 34.68 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.5 659774 31.37 -0.94 Munich-based company said Friday that restructuring 21.79 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 826412 10.24 0.26 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 1034142 46.50 5.00 was a possibility. 54.75 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 21.0 10399198 36.08 -1.13 17.49 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 53151 7.26 -0.06 35.00 19.70 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.9 11864292 29.35 -2.06 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 2202884 5.81 -0.59 12.43 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) 209.0 3283528 8.42 -0.66 5.90 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 25756 2.35 0.05 WEEKLY 32.24 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 13.8 4989911 25.56 -1.58 3.25 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 12.7 24715 3.18 0.13 1.49 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 260033 1.32 0.41 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 20.5 5870110 35.78 -3.15 CHANGE WWD 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 29.6 2127869 13.04 0.69 59.55 25.00 Target (TGT) 15.1 37391700 42.03 -0.90 ENDING 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 405401 52.50 7.50 0.85 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 63020 0.84 0.01 ( AUG. 14 ) INDEX 20.80 9.41 Gap (GPS) 14.1 39450988 18.78 0.20 92.35 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 6179595 29.23 -1.64 % 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 36.0 974184 22.87 -0.19 6.10 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 820 5.85 0.05 Gainers Change Composite 23.00 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 258174 12.16 -0.13 45.80 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 21.7 9025132 31.49 -0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood 45.04 27.82 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 18.0 6965136 19.73 1.03 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 19.4 1775400 12.79 -1.18 844.32 11.62 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1678226 3.84 -0.04 37.20 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 17.2 19611747 35.09 -0.39 Nitches 42.86 38.15 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 535699 21.69 0.33 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 15.4 320812 42.30 2.33 Retail Ventures 17.12 43.00 10.26 Guess (GES) 13.9 3528155 28.31 -1.89 31.82 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 11.6 2188088 21.40 -1.63 French Connection * 16.67 43.73 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 13.6 2734077 40.94 -2.61 11.97 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 1146493 7.40 -0.27 Crocs 15.12 8.50 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 23900 2.85 0.10 43.52 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 30.5 1624307 23.99 -1.03 27.80 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 43.2 3507997 20.48 -1.32 5.43 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 837263 2.04 -0.04 Decliners Change 0.53 0.00 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 8926863 0.03 0.01 28.93 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 4407200 27.43 0.52 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 22.6 7320564 414.00 -8.00 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 26.4 27703501 27.99 -0.07 Cato -18.60 131.89 59.42 Hermes * (RMS:FP) 36.6 253610 101.00 -2.10 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 14.1 3360461 65.63 -3.22 Bluefly -18.42 16.54 1.40 HSN (HSNI) - 1250820 11.12 -0.61 22.06 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 25.2 686110 13.07 -0.07 LJ Intl. -17.86 13.87 4.61 Hot Topic (HOTT) 15.1 4404213 7.49 -0.71 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.3 95968685 51.79 2.50 Zale -13.53 3.32 18.84 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) 11.3 8624435 18.74 0.25 53.64 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 27.4 5183873 38.30 -1.12 Bebe -13.21 18.30 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 15.8 3675413 17.16 -0.31 40.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 19.2 8675116 17.84 -0.93 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 19.5 5745964 38.30 -0.15 5.20 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 13.5 5740872 3.53 0.11 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 16.33 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 14.6 388984 10.01 -0.13 41.99 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 21.2 69091 21.99 -1.87 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 29.45 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 15.9 1376209 23.25 -0.98 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 38.00 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 45.1 6547365 30.15 -1.96 30.89 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 2341298 6.07 -0.95 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 44.20 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 15.6 33122030 31.29 -3.14 20.09 4.80 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 27.3 1308501 12.44 0.04 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 17, 2009 15 Professional Services WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Here’s your financial bailout...lower CHARLES GRIFFIN INTELLIGENCE your overhead & eliminate headaches. Stop gray market trading, trademark Make your goods and sell them...we’ll do the rest ! infringement and copyright piracy. With years of international and domestic Oneway Services experience we will help you investigate in the Ship/receive/pack Hanging/Ticketing U.S., Asia and Europe. Barcoding/price tix EDI/UPC catalogs www.charlesgriffinllc.com Order entry/Invoicing Free Web Access 24/7 (914) 332-0236 Tel 973-340-4800 Fax 973-340-4810 www.onewayservices.com SALES REPS - ARE YOU OWED MONEY? PRODUCTION SOURCING AND CONSULTING A New York attorney willing to work on a contingent Small to Mid-Sized Companies fee basis with 33+ years of experience in sales •Reduce your expenses & overhead rep disputes can represent you. Presently •We provide part/full service manufacturing representing numerous multi-line showrooms. •Sourcing In Asia, NYC, or Central America Jonathon D. Warner, Esq. •From receipt of orders to final shipments Warner & Scheuerman Phone: 212-924-7111 Ask for help:917.370.9556, Frank Fax: 212-924-6111 email: [email protected] [email protected] waitex provides Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions

• 28 years of experience in the garment industry • 3 million square feet of modern distribution facilities in NY, NJ, & LA • EDI, UCC128, ASN, TMS, scan/pack capability • Pick, pack & ship by piece or pre-packed carton • GOH/Flatpack storage by carton/unit/sq.ft NY - Barry: (212) 967-8100 • Air/Sea world-wide cargo forwarding LA - Alfred: (909) 476-8128 • Garment and label manufacturing Email: [email protected] • Hoffman Press / Steam tunnel www.waitex.com • 3000 world-wide service specialists

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Buyer Product Devel to $80K Current exp in luxury mens dress Purchasing Manager PRODUCTIONS shirts and ties. Strong in devel of prod- Industry leading NY/NJ accessory uct with factories domestic/overseas. importer requires component Purch All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Mgr to oversee a very busy dept. Must Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Strong inventory management. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Midtown. Well known retail men’s store. be organized, hands on exp. in fast Call CLOTHES-OUT: [email protected] 973-564-9236 turn mfg in China and sales oriented (937) 898-2975 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, with 5-10 years industry exp. Excellent comp for right person. E-mail resume ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PRODUCTIONS to: [email protected] An accessory/ luxury wholesaler seeks Full service shop to the trade. CAD Artist to $35K an enthusiastic individual to join our REGIONAL SALES REPS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Strong exp in Illustrator/Photoshop. sales team. Must be a strategic thinker Wellensteyn USA, Inc, manufacturers Must have exp in bras and daywear. able to plan & monitor sales projections of fashion-forward outerwear is [email protected] 973-564-9236 Retail Store Floor Mgr $Open currently seeking regional Sales Rep- We are interested in Must have current exp in as well as develop & maintain strong relationships w/ domestic & specialty resentation. The ideal candidate will Buying Surplus Fabrics & Stock better/expensive men’s store. Manage have strong relationships with Retail- all aspects of men’s dept. Prestigious, accounts. Applicants must have 5 yrs. lots irrespective of quantity. Contact Designer $100-125K. Current exp in Jr. min. sales exp. w/ fashion forward ers in the Men’s Specialty Store sector. us: 646.642.3002 / [email protected] well known, midtown firm. The position will require road work, surfwear or girls surfwear lifestyle [email protected] 973-564-9236 product and strong retail math skills. sportswear required. Midtown kids co. Qualified candidates, please send resume showroom appointments, and trade Will consider relo from L.A. to NYC. and salary requirements to: show participation. If you are a skilled [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] professional and committed to success, your next great opportunity SALES DIRECTOR could be Wellensteyn USA. Spaces Needed for designer handbag collection. Qualified candidates are asked to DSNR - GIRLS/JR SWIMWEAR - OPEN $ Ideal candidate will have exp in handbag submit his/her resume via e-mail to Accounts Receivable Clerk Est’d co. seeks exp’d swimwear dsgnr sales with contacts at the top department the Wellensteyn Director of Sales at: An accessory wholesale co. has an out- w/strong print and fabric skills for 4-16 & specialty stores to expand our N.A. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] COMMERCIAL standing career opportunity for an tween line. JR bkgrd. ok. distribution. Min 3 yr exp & BA prefer- Domestic sweater manufacturer/ show- Accounts Receivable Clerk with 3-5 yrs red. NYC based, some travel required. room looking for aggressive account REAL ESTATE accounting experience in a wholesale A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Package inc salary, bonus & benefits executive with immediate following SALES company. Candidate must have strong 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 Email: [email protected] with chains and majors to spearhead A manufacturer of fashion accessories, knowledge of QuickBooks and Microsoft Email: [email protected] jr. division. Sweater experience a legwear, footwear, sleepwear for wom- Office. Please send cover letter with must. Fax resume to: 646-217-3149 en and children w/HQ offices in salary requirements and resume to: Technical Designer $70-100K Moonachie NJ and Showrooms in [email protected] Factory Plant Manager Assist. $40- Strong current exp in creating bra and mid-town Manhattan needs Sales 50K. Current exp in men’s or women’s daywear products on computer. Creative Executive - minimum 5 years exp Showrooms & Lofts ASSISTANT DESIGNER shirts required. Must have supervised and technical . Knowledge of tech packs. w/following in industry, must be high- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS minimum 20 individuals. NJ location [email protected] 973-564-9236 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ly motivated, self-starter and team Assist in the design process of private [email protected] 973-564-9236 Perlina Handbags is seeking a results player. Sales Assistant - 1 year exp in Great ’New’ Office Space Avail label casual sportswear for the young ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 driven account executive to work with industry preferred, must have good missy and jr markets. Research fabrics major dept stores. Must have strong, communication, organizational and & trends, assemble presentation Technical Designer proven, established relationships and computer skills. Will consider recent boards, prepare tech packs, review, be able to drive the business. Email grad w/knowledge of fashion. Email spec & control all samples for buyer Patternmaker / Draper your resume to: [email protected] resume with salary requirements to : presentation & production. Must be Major Sleepwear manuf. seeking Tech. [email protected] detail oriented, 2-3 years experience in w/min 3 years exp. Knowledge of gmt. related field, ability to prioritize, excellent Lingerie/ Loungewear construction. Must be able to follow flat sketching skills, great organizer & through from NY design room to overseas Sales Key Account Exec $ Open Designer SALESPERSON & Current exp in popular priced missy communicator, Photoshop, Illustrator Seeking a creative & innovative Lingerie/ factory. Bra / Panty and also computer & Outlook a must. Email cover letter experience a plus. Fax Resume Attn: ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sweaters or missy cut and sewn. Loungewear designer who is able to Midtown established knit/sweater co. with your resume explaining why you bring highly distinctive design solutions Keith 212-685-4341 Or E-Mail Ed Hardy Footwear Company seeking [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 We are looking for an experienced are best suited for this job to : to market. Great sensitivity for colors and experienced sales persons. For both East [email protected] & West coast to maintain existing sales importer/ general agency /regional prints. 5+ yrs exp as an intimate Sales Key Account Exec $ Open agency for our product “ITALIANA” apparel/loungewear designer. Proficiency & an Account Executive to develop a new major business for a new licensed footwear Current exp in girls sportswear brand in Ladies Hosiery Business. in Photoshop & Illustrator. Able to relo- Technical Design Mgr to $125K. required. Must have present relation- Please contact Mrs.Beysun Sonmezoz ASST SHIPPING MGR cate to Miami. Multilingual English, Span- Current exp in managing tech packages brand with department stores. Salary commensurate with contact experience ships with Kohl’s or Sears or JC Phone: +902124821033 Evening dress mftr. seeks an aggressive ish, Italian preferred. Email resume w/ and specs for swimwear co req. Supervise 4 Penney or K-Mart. This is a long estab- Email: [email protected] exp. asst shipping mgr.Fax/email resumes salary history: [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 level. Travel required. Send resumes to: [email protected] lished, growing, midtown kidswear co. Web: italianafashion.com to: 212-398-6694 / [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 Another reason to love The Fabric of Our Lives ®

Jazmine Sullivan AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 2009. ™ Service Mark/Trademark COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. AMERICA’S

Critically acclaimed R&B singer-songwriter Jazmine Sullivan shows us how The Fabric of Our Lives® has become the fabric of her life in the latest advertising campaign from Cotton Incorporated. Along with indie pop artist Zooey Deschanel and country singer Miranda Lambert, Jazmine demonstrates cotton’s style and versatility to a whole new generation of young women. And for you that means a whole new generation of customers.