H327 (Revised)

Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota

Revised by Moving west and north across the state, conditions become less favorable Tom Kalb for growing fruits because of extreme temperatures and reduced rainfall. Horticulturist However, with proper selection and the necessary cultural practices, NDSU Extension Service the home gardener can harvest ample fruit most seasons.

Protecting fruit trees from harsh winds in winter and summer cannot Growing your own fruit be overemphasized. City dwellers usually have a more favorable environment for establishing fruit trees than rural residents because the can be fascinating and fun. concentration of buildings and shade trees can greatly reduce wind velocity. Many different kinds of tree On farms, the fruit tree planting is best located within the building site. fruits, including apple, pear, Wind protection may be provided by hills, buildings or shelterbelts. plum and cherry, can be Shelter is necessary from all directions except the east. grown successfully in Fruit trees should be planted at least 40 to 50 feet from farm shelterbelts North Dakota. to prevent breakage from snowdrifts and reduce competition between the fruit trees and shelterbelts for sunlight, soil moisture and nutrients. In town, where backyard space may be limited, locate fruit trees away from large shade trees for similar reasons. Most fruits do well on any fertile garden soil that has good surface drainage.

July 2016 1 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota How to Select Cultivars Well-branched trees can be developed Gardeners in northern areas will by the homeowner even if only a Fruit Tree benefit from choosing the most healthy, unbranched trees between 5 and 6 feet tall are available. A consumer visiting a local nursery hardy and earliest-ripening cultivars. After planting and before the buds often is overwhelmed with the See Pages 5-7 for a complete listing and break, the tree can be cut about selection available. Choosing a good description of recommended cultivars. 36 inches above the graft union. tree from the inventory is not as simple Cultivars are listed in order of ripening. A healthy tree will respond with as you might think. Following certain several branches developing below criteria will help make a good selection. Tree Size the cut, allowing the homeowner They are hardiness, tree size, branch Look for trees that are at least ½ inch to make selective cuts later on number, branch angle and, to help in diameter just above the graft union. for good branch distribution. get the properly selected tree off Experience has shown that trees to a good start, planting time. smaller than this do not establish as well as larger ones. However, Branch Angle Hardiness bigger is not always better! If a tree Wide-angle branches (60 degrees from the central axis of the tree) Hardiness is the most critical factor is allowed to get too large (1-inch will be the strongest. Vigorous, when selecting varieties for North diameter or more) at a nursery, a upright branches – often called water Dakota. The U.S. Department of significant part of the root system may sprouts – will not be contributors to the Agriculture’s Hardiness Zone Map be damaged or removed in digging. overall production and strength of the (Figure 1) is based on extreme winter This will give an unbalanced ratio tree. Branches that are at a wider or temperatures. Most North Dakotans between the top and root system flatter angle will produce fruit earlier live in Zone 4a (minimum winter of the tree, creating problems in than sharp-angled branches. Overall, temperature of minus 25 to minus establishment and survival. the tree should have a pyramidal shape 30 F). Consider this map as a guide, to make efficient use of the sunlight. not a hard and fast rule. Exposure to Branch Number wind, alkalinity and soil moisture also Ideally, a tree should have three to can affect the adaptability of a variety. five symmetrically spaced branches that Planting Time Asian pear, sweet cherry and peach are about 4 to 6 inches apart starting The urge for spring planting is are not reliably hardy. about 2 feet above the graft union. overwhelming in North Dakota. You can meet this desire easily by planting bare-root stock as soon as the frost is out of the ground. Experience has shown that bare-root planted trees, if healthy, will exhibit vigorous growth and establishment the first year. Some nurseries order bare-root stock to offer to early shoppers, then pot the remainder for sale throughout the growing season.

The fall planting season often is overlooked. At that time, the trees are moving and storing carbohydrates in their root systems. Consequently, no visibly active growth is witnessed above ground. All the action is taking place in the roots, which continues until the soil temperature reaches about 40 F. Fall-planted trees often will exhibit greater vigor the following spring than spring-planted ones in comparable situations. Figure 1. Hardiness zone map of North Dakota.

2 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota Dwarf Apple Rootstocks Pollination Tamp firmly. Leave a depression Dwarf trees are smaller than standard Many tree fruit cultivars cannot set around the tree and water thoroughly. trees because of the influence of the fruit with their own pollen, so you The lowest branch should be located rootstock on which they are grafted. must select and plant two different on the southwest side of the tree to Dwarf trees bear crops a few years cultivars to ensure fertilization. reduce sunscald problems. earlier than trees grown on standard Apple, crabapple, pear, American rootstocks. They are easier to prune, plum, apricot and cherry plum will Pruning spray and harvest. They can be incorpo- set more fruit if two or more cultivars Minimal pruning is done at planting. rated into nearly any home landscape. are present. Pie cherry and European For branched trees, remove broken blue plum cultivars are self-fruitful branches. If branches are rubbing The hardiness of apple rootstocks and can set fruit on their own. against one another, trim out the least limits their use to Zone 4 in North desirable branch. The tree may be Dakota. Sheltered sites with expected trimmed back to 1 foot above its snowfall are best. Spacing Apple trees should be spaced for easy tallest side branch, making sure the Budagovsky 9 (Bud.9) is the hardiest cultivation and full tree development. top of the “central leader” remains rootstock and will grow trees up to 10 For trees on standard rootstocks, the highest point of the tree. feet tall. It resists fire blight. The root- minimum spacing is 20 by 20 feet and For nonbranched “whip” trees, stock M.9 is one of the most common preferably 25 by 25 feet. Semidwarf cut the trunk at 30 to 36 inches. dwarf rootstocks used in the U.S., but it trees can be spaced approximately This will stimulate the first flush is susceptible to fire blight and is only 15 feet apart and fully dwarf trees of scaffold branches at that point. marginally hardy. The hardiest of the approximately 8 to 10 feet apart. East Malling series of rootstocks, M.26, A young tree needs little pruning Plum, cherry and apricot trees will grow a semidwarf tree, but it is except to select proper main branches. should be spaced 10 to 15 feet apart. susceptible to fire blight. All of these The first branch should begin about Cherry plum trees should be spaced rootstocks need to be staked. 30 inches from the ground. 4 to 8 feet apart. The most popular dwarfing rootstock, In the next 24 inches, develop the M.7, is not quite as hardy, but it is first series of major scaffold branches used in many Zone 4 orchards. It will Caring for (Figure 2, Page 4). Four branches, develop into a semidwarf tree that one each facing a different direction grows 12 to 15 feet tall. It is grown as a a Fruit Tree (north, east, south and west), is ideal. free-standing tree except in windy sites. These branches coming out of the Planting trunk should resemble spokes Dwarf apple trees are planted so the You can plant dormant bare-root fruit coming out of a wagon wheel. graft union is at least 2 inches above trees early in the spring, while you can the ground. This will prevent the plant potted nursery stock throughout Maintain a 24-inch gap between this upper portion of the graft (scion) from the growing season. group of scaffold branches and the next. establishing roots that will reduce the This will maximize sunlight and air When planting bare-root trees, dig a dwarfing effect of the rootstock. movement between the sets of scaffold hole larger than the root spread of the branches. As the tree grows, another A 10-foot-long, ¾-inch electrical tree to avoid crowding or bending the 24-inch gap, followed by third set of conduit pipe is the most common roots. Take care when planting potted scaffold branches, is developed. staking material. Pound the stake trees that are growing and in full leaf 2 feet deep into the ground a few to prevent the loss of soil around the When the tree reaches fruiting age, inches from the tree. roots when removing the container. annual pruning will help maintain Always remove containers before a healthy, well-structured tree and Many nurseries in North Dakota planting. Do not place soil amendments encourage annual bearing. On all fruit sell apple trees grafted onto ‘Dolgo‘ and fertilizer in the planting hole. trees, prune all suckers that originate crabapple rootstock. These “standard” from the rootstock. trees are hardy and vigorous but will For apple, crabapple and pear, locate be slow to set fruit (approximately the graft (the bulge near the union of Branches with narrow V-shaped crotch five to seven years before the first root and top) 2 inches above the soil angles should be pruned and avoided. good yield). These trees must be level. Trees of stone fruits may be These crotches tend to split under the pruned vigorously to prevent them planted so their graft is at or slightly weight of a fruit crop. from getting 20 feet tall or taller. above the soil surface.

3 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota Pruning and training young trees All fruit trees need to be pruned, and the best time On the other hand, unpruned apple trees produce is late winter (March through April). The tree is low-quality fruit. Unpruned trees are more sus- dormant and the wounds will heal quickly in the ceptible to diseases and storm damage. Unpruned spring. Also, the tree is leafl ess and we can see the trees are more likely to be attacked by insect pests; branches and their structure easily. no one likes wormy fruit. Pruning is needed to keep a tree healthy. This will The major goal when pruning is to maximize the bring more sunlight and air movement into the amount of sunlight and air movement in the canopy. canopy, thereby reducing disease problems. The most popular structure for fruit trees is the Pruning will keep a tree stronger. We will remove modifi ed central leader. This structure has one major the weak branches that cannot support fruit. This branch in the center and the widest part of the tree will create a structure that can stand up to the winds at the bottom, with the branches working their way and blizzards of North Dakota. up in a “Christmas tree” shape. To maximize the amount of high-quality fruit, the tree should not be Pruning will lead to better-quality fruit. The in- taller than 16 feet tall (10 feet is better). creased sunlight in the canopy will brighten the fruit. The increased air movement will reduce pest Pruning a fruit tree is not hard, but you have to take problems, too. your time, constantly stepping back to make sure you see all of the angles. Pruning helps us manage the tree. By keeping the tree low, we can spray (if needed) and harvest the Start by taking out the suckers that develop at the fruit more easily. base of the trunk.

Don’t allow branches to grow taller than Protecting From Sunscald Remove branches with the leader narrow crotches Sunscald is a very serious problem TopTop for for leader leader on fruit trees in North Dakota. 2424 inches inches forfor third set set of Remove inward facing of scaffoldscaffold branches branches branches and branches Injury usually occurs in late winter crossing over one another Don’t allow upper or early spring when bright afternoon 24-inch24-inch gap gap branches to get long and shade sun warms the southwest side of the lower branches 2424 inches inches forfor second set set of trunk and exposed lower branches. of scaffoldscaffold branches branches The absorption of heat by the dark 60 degrees bark activates the growth of cells 24-inch24-inch gap gap isis idealideal Figure 2. Remove drooping beneath the bark. These cells may Remove vertical branches 2424 inchesinches for fifirst rst set set of branches Pruning for of scaffoldscaffold branches branches be killed later by freezing. strong-structured (water sprouts) Sunscald injury can be prevented by apple trees. 24 to24 36 to inches 36 inches to fi rst to first branch branch Remove suckers installing white tree guards around

Figure 3. The basics of pruning fruit trees. the trunks to reflect the sun’s rays. Another means of protection is to Vertical shoots (water8 sprouts) in Starting aas Community bluegrass, Orchard in orchardgrass North Dakota or fescue paint the southwest sides of the the canopy are not productive and may be used if water is available. trunk with a white latex water-based clutter the tree. Remove these shoots Spray strips with glyphosate to paint diluted to 50 percent. every year. kill weeds within the row. Managing Wildlife Plum, cherry plum and apricot produce Rabbits and mice might become a their best fruit crops on relatively young Watering Watering is critical at the time of problem in the winter, especially if growth. Prune these trees more severely. planting. Thoroughly soak the root their food supplies are low. Put a The proper time to prune is in the area. The orchard will need to be cylinder of ¼-inch mesh hardware early spring after severe cold weather irrigated regularly for at least cloth around the trunk for protection. has passed and before new growth two years. Water weekly, giving The cylinder should reach up to the occurs. However, broken and diseased young trees 3 to 5 gallons each. first major branch, approximately branches should be removed any time 24 to 36 inches high, and be buried of the year. Sterilize pruning tools Fertilizing a couple of inches in the ground. between cuts with household bleach Spring is the best time to fertilize. A wildlife repellent sprayed on the diluted to 10 percent (1½ cups to A good way to monitor the fertility limbs will protect the rest of the tree. 1 gallon of water) if removing of the soil is to see how much new branches infected with fire blight. growth is produced each year. For deer, horticulturists recommend The annual growth of a tree can be an 8-foot-tall fence for large-scale Mulching seen as the glossy tissue from the plantings. Fencing made of nylon is Cultivation is essential in establishing tip of the branch to a dark scar that relatively affordable and will work young fruit trees. In town, one or more encircles the branch. Young fruit trees for several years. Metal fencing is trees can be grown in the lawn or along should grow about 18 to 24 inches longer-lasting but more costly. the edge of the property as screening per year and then decline to about trees for backyard summer privacy. 10 inches per year when they get Spraying A circle of cleanly cultivated soil fruit-bearing age. If trees are not The easiest way to control insects 5 to 6 feet in diameter should be main- getting this growth, consider a soil and diseases is to maintain a good tained around the trunk of each tree. test and fertilizer treatment. sanitation program. This involves collecting dropped leaves and fruit Shredded bark mulch should be placed from the planting. Burn or destroy around the tree. The mulch should be Staking all prunings, leaves and dropped minimal at the trunk and then reach an Staked trees will bear earlier and fruits to avoid harboring pests. ultimate depth of 3 or 4 inches around produce higher yields than unstaked the perimeter of the ring. Rock mulch trees. Staking will protect trees from Insecticide sprays may be needed for will trap heat and should not be used. damaging winds and keep the root high-quality fruit. Insect traps are system stabilized in the soil. In the case available to monitor for codling For orchard plantings on farms, of grafted trees, staking prevents the a permanent grass cover crop such scion from snapping off the rootstock.

4 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota moth and apple maggot. If the pest critical sprays are early in the spring Follow the recommended rates of is not there, you don’t need to spray. when leaves are emerging. Prune trees application and allow the proper every March to maximize sunlight interval between the last spray Foliar diseases, such as apple scab and air movement in the canopy. and fruit harvest. and rust, are most likely to occur when This will reduce the humidity in the spring season is wet. The most which most fungi thrive.

Apple Apple is the most popular tree fruit in North Dakota. Cultivars are self-unfruitful (more than one cultivar is needed for fruit set). Growers in Zone 4 should consider dwarfing rootstocks, especially if snow cover is likely during the winter. In general, early cultivars are good for fresh eating but do not store well. Cultivars listed below are hardy to Zone 3 unless noted otherwise.

Dakota Gold Large, yellow apple. Good for fresh eating, sauce, pies. Very hardy. Annual bearer. Tolerates fire blight. Late August. From North Dakota. State Fair Bright red apple with crisp, juicy, white flesh. Fresh eating. Early September. From Minnesota. Zestar! Crisper and better storage than other early cultivars. Striped red skin. Marginally hardy in Zone 3. From Minnesota. Hazen Large, dark red fruit. Semidwarf tree bears when young. Mild flavor for fresh eating and cooking. From North Dakota. Duchess Red, medium-size fruit. Reliable, hardy. Resists scab and fire blight. Early September. From Russia. Goodland Medium-large apple. Creamy yellow with red-blushed skin. Productive. Flesh is crisp and aromatic. For fresh eating and pies. From Manitoba. Northern Lights Red skin with stripes. Slightly tart flavor good for eating and cooking. Short storage life. From North Dakota. Prairie Magic Yellow skin with red blush. Medium-large fruit is sweet and crisp. Vigorous tree. From Manitoba. Red Baron Bright red, medium-size apple. Productive and precocious tree. Tolerates fire blight. From Minnesota. Sweet Sixteen Red, medium-size apple. Spicy-sweet, crisp, aromatic taste. Creamy yellow flesh. For fresh eating and desserts. Mid-September. From Minnesota. Honeycrisp Most popular apple in Midwest. Red/yellow fruits with sweet, exceptionally crisp and juicy flavor. Stores well. Marginally hardy in Zone 3. From Minnesota. Haralred Bright red selection of Haralson. Earlier (late September). Some resistance to fire blight. Juicy and tart. Good keeper. SnowSweet Bright white flesh that resists browning when sliced. Ideal for snacks. Shows some resistance to scab and fire blight. From Minnesota. Haralson The standard for cooking apples in the Upper Midwest. Red apples of medium size. Pleasantly tart flavor. Some resistance to fire blight. Easy to grow and stores well. From Minnesota. Wodarz Yellow fruit with red blush. Uneven shape. Very sweet and stores well. Tolerates fire blight. From North Dakota. Early October.

Crabapple Its tart flavor makes this fruit popular for canning and making jellies. A crabapple tree will pollinate/fertilize an apple tree and vice versa. Most varieties are partially self-fruitful but will produce higher yields in the presence of another apple or crabapple cultivar. Hardy to Zone 3.

Dolgo Bright red, small fruits for jelly. Tree resists scab and fire blight. Late August. Centennial Large fruits. Good for fresh eating and processing. Red blush over orange skin. Chestnut Very large fruits. Reddish bronze skin with yellow flesh. Mildly tart, prized nutlike flavor. Mid- to late September.

5 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota Pear Pears are susceptible to fire blight; monitor closely and prune out infected branches. Plant more than one cultivar for best yields. The Canadian cultivars work well together with Golden Spice, as do Summercrisp and the South Dakota cultivars. Hardy in Zone 4 unless noted otherwise.

Early Gold A seeding of Ure displaying superior vigor. Matures in early August. Hardy in Zone 3. Use Ure as pollinator. Early to mid-August. From Manitoba. Summercrisp Medium-sized fruits. Harvest in mid-August when crisp and still green with a red blush. Some resistance to fire blight. From Minnesota. Ure Small fruit with a creamy white flesh. Delicious for fresh eating and processing. Mid- to late August. Very hardy (Zone 3). From Manitoba. Golden Spice Small fruit has a tart, spicy flavor. Good for canning. Vigorous trees are hardy (Zone 3). Excellent pollinator for Ure. Early September. From Minnesota. Gourmet Medium-sized fruit. Flesh is yellowish, crisp, juicy and sweet. Skin is thick but tender. Mid- to late September. From South Dakota. Luscious Very large, Bartlett-type fruits. Juicy and sweet. Late September. Tolerates fire blight. From South Dakota.

Plum All cultivars below with the exception of Mount Royal require more than one cultivar to set fruit. These cultivars may be grafted on American plum rootstock to promote hardiness and vigor. Space trees 10 to 15 feet apart. Hardy in Zone 3 unless noted otherwise.

Black Ice Large fruit with dark blue skin. Sweet, juicy yellow flesh. Matures in early August. Underwood Large fruit with medium to dark red skin. Juicy, sweet. Very good quality. For fresh eating and cooking. Mid- to late August. Waneta Very large fruit. Yellow skin overlain with dark red. Yellow flesh. Good quality. Very reliable and popular. Late August. LaCrescent Medium-size fruit with yellow skin and yellow flesh. Juicy, tender and delicious. Excellent quality. Freestone type. Late August. Toka Medium size. Red skin, yellow flesh. Good pollinator. Rich, spicy flavor. Early September. Pipestone Large size. Red skin, yellow flesh. Tough skin will peel easily. Sweet. Early September. Alderman Large, burgundy red fruits. Flesh is golden, medium soft, sweet. Good quality. Vigorous, precocious tree. Pembina Large, oval plum. Red skin, yellow flesh. Sweet and juicy. Good for fresh eating. Late August. Superior Large fruit with dark red skin. Firm yellow flesh. Outstanding quality. Tree has somewhat of a weeping habit. Mount Royal Hardiest blue plum (Zone 4). Juicy fruit, good for fresh eating. Self-fruitful. Will not pollinate other plums listed here. Tree is semidwarf. Late August.

Cherry Plum These cultivars were developed for the northern Great Plains. They are extremely hardy (Zone 3), resist drought and will bear fruit after one to two years. Small trees grow up to 8 feet tall and can be spaced 4 to 8 feet apart. They are self-unfruitful, so plant more than one cultivar.

Red Diamond Medium-large size. Dark red skin and flesh. Sweet, juicy. Late August. Sapalta Medium size. Dull purple skin and flesh. Nearly freestone. Productive. Excellent quality. Late August. Compass Small size. Dark red skin, yellow flesh. Tart, juicy. Use for canning. Good pollinizer. Early September.

6 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota Cherry Pie cherries are used for pies, sauces, jams and breads. Ripe cherries can be eaten fresh. Self-fruitful (only one cultivar needed). Naturally dwarf trees can be planted 10 to 15 feet apart. Hardy to Zone 3 unless noted otherwise. Sweet cherries are not hardy in North Dakota.

Evans Bali Extremely hardy (Zone 2). Bright red cherries. Precocious and extremely productive. Introduced from Alberta. North Star Medium-size cherries. Dark red skin with red flesh. Good quality. Resists leaf spot disease. Ripens in mid-July. From Minnesota. Meteor Large size. Bright red fruit with yellow flesh and small pits. Resists leaf spot disease. Vigorous tree. Late July. From Minnesota.

Apricot Apricots bloom very early, so plant them out of frost pockets. The trees are naturally dwarf and can be set 10 to 15 feet apart. They are self-unfruitful. The Minnesota cultivars work well as a team, as do the Manitoba cultivars.

Moongold Large, yellow fruits with yellow flesh. Freestone. Sweet, sprightly flavor. Good quality. Late July. From Minnesota. Zone 4. Sungold Large, golden fruits with orange flesh. Freestone. Sweet, mild flavor. Early August. From Minnesota. Zone 4. Scout Golden flesh is tender, sweet and juicy. Freestone. For desserts, canning and drying. Very hardy (Zone 3). Early August. From Manitoba. Westcot Large, freestone fruits. Excellent for fresh eating and processing. Zone 3. From Manitoba.

Instead, superior individual trees “transplanting” of a single bud of a Propagation (such as the original ‘Honeycrisp‘ tree desired variety into the stem of a hardy Cultivars of fruit trees do not reproduce in Minnesota) are identified, named seedling rootstock. Budding is done in true from seed. In other words, the and then propagated by asexual means late July or early August. seeds of a ‘Honeycrisp‘ apple will (grafting). A bud/twig of a ‘Honeycrisp‘ not produce ‘Honeycrisp‘ apples. is grafted onto another branch/root Scion Wood The seeds have the maternal genes and we are assured the bud/twig Dormant scions are used for the cleft of ‘Honeycrisp,‘ but we often do not will produce ‘Honeycrisp‘ fruit. and bark grafts. The grafting is done know where the pollen came from. in early spring, usually before growth Because apple varieties do not fertilize Grafting is a way of combining a bud or starts (April–May 10). Collect scions of each other, we are sure the pollen did twig of one plant with a branch or root 1-year-old wood in the fall, winter or not come from ‘Honeycrisp‘; instead, of another so that a union forms and early spring. They may come from trees it came from another type of apple growth continues. A hardy rootstock whose fruit you desire – perhaps those or crabapple. is a must for our climatic conditions. of neighbors or friends. Scion wood Even if a variety is self-fruitful, such Bud Graft also is available from nurseries. as a pie cherry, the seedling will Many of the apple trees and all of Scion wood should be placed in differ somewhat from its parent and the stone fruit trees (plum relatives) closed plastic bags and stored under will take several years before it bears its sold in the area nursery trade are refrigeration (32 to 40 F) until used. first fruit. In the vast majority of cases, propagated by a type of graft called Do not store scion wood in the freezer. propagation from seed results in trees budding. It could be described as the of inferior fruit yield and quality.

7 • H327 Tree Fruit Culture and Cultivars in North Dakota Cleft Graft The cleft graft often is used to topwork young trees two to three years A after planting. This graft utilizes the technique of inserting a section of stem C A with two buds (the scion) into the stock. To prepare the scion piece, make a 1- to 1½-inch-long, smooth, sloping cut on both sides of the scion base C D to form a wedge (Figure 3-A). D E B Prepare the stock for receiving the scion. On young trees, select three B to five well-spaced scaffold branches, preferably with wide angle crotches. Figure 3. The cleft graft is simple Figure 4. The bark graft. Cut back selected branches to be but effective. grafted 12 to 18 inches from the trunk (Figure 4-A). Remove all other branches and side branches. Bark Graft Slightly loosen the bark at the top of Next, insert a sharp knife 1½ to 2 inches The bark graft can be used with larger the cut and insert the wood surface of deep into the center of each stock stocks (up to 12 inches in diameter) the scion base next to the wood of the (Figure 3-B). Insert prepared scions than for cleft grafting, but the scions stock. Push the scion down behind into the stocks. Generally, the stock are similar in size. Several scions can the bark to the extent of the cut on is larger in diameter than the scion; be inserted around the stock. The stock the scion base (Figure 4-D). therefore, take care to set the scion is cut off as for cleft grafting, except Use rubber electrician’s tape to to one side instead of on center it is not split through the center. secure the scion in place and cover (Figure 3-C). Bark grafting must be done when the entire cut surface of the stock Carefully align the cambium tissue of cell division in the stock has begun, with tape (Figure 4-E). If other tapes the scion and the stock. The cambium usually late April or early May in (such as masking tape or plastic tapes) is the layer of growing cells that is North Dakota, allowing the bark to are used, they must be cut after the just under the bark and outside separate readily from the wood. At this union develops to prevent girdling. of the wood (Figure 3-D). time, the bark is said to be “slipping.” You do not need to remove them.

Wrap this graft union (Figure 3-E) Cut the base of the scion on one side For topworking, place scions every carefully with a good grade of rubber with a long, smooth, sloping cut about 2 to 4 inches around the stock stub. As electrician’s tape. As the graft grows, 1½ inches long, going completely with cleft grafting, the intent is usually the tape stretches and eventually through the scion so that it comes for only one to remain eventually. deteriorates without girdling the to a point at the base (Figure 4-C). You can give the electrician’s tape and new growth. Make a vertical cut about 1½ inches exposed scions additional protection long going through the bark in the by painting them with interior latex stub of the stock (Figure 4-B). water-base paint to prevent drying.

This publication was authored by Larry J. Chaput, retired; Ronald C. Smith, retired; and Dave DeCock, retired.

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