Exploring the Dragoons Land of Cochise PLUS Prescott‘S Mail Trail West Clear Creek Magic Contents August 2007 38 36 32 22 16
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Conquer Fear at an Outdoors Camp for Women AUGUST 2007 Exploring the Dragoons Land of Cochise PLUS Prescott‘s Mail Trail West Clear Creek Magic 8 Chasing Cochise History lingers among the rocks in the search for the Dragoon Mountains campsites of the great Apache chief. BY PETER ALESHIRE PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDY PRENTICE online arizonahighways.com Need some help when it comes to Arizona august 2007 history? Allow it to repeat itself this month 16 Why Are They with some of the top-rated trips in our “10 Trying to Kill Me? Great History Trips Guide.” Go online for this Writer rides Prescott's historic Mail Trail. and more at www.arizonahighways.com. BY ROGER NAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHS BY HUMOR Our writer explores his own personal DON B. AND RYAN B. STEVENSON history as he recalls his first father-and-son chat. WEEKEND GETAWAY Explore some real "hot 22 Wet Wizard spots" in Tombstone and the Dragoon Mountains. Water makes magic in West Clear Creek. BY STEVE BRUNO EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan your Arizona getaway with our events calendar. 32 ‘Profitless’ Splendor contents Lt. Ives' epic journey upriver to the Grand Canyon yielded stirring adventure and a foolish prediction. Photographic Prints Available BY GREGORY M CNAMEE n Prints of some photographs are available for purchase, as designated in captions. To order, call toll-free (866) 962-1191 or visit 36 Troubadours of Summer Cicadas inspire myths and mischief. www.magazineprints.com. BY CARRIE M. MINER PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTY CORDANO 38 Learning to Lean Back Outdoors woman camp in the Bradshaw Mountains reveals the benefits of fear. BY LORI K. BAKER PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD MAACK Departments 2 DEAR EDITOR WORTH THE WORK The West Clear Creek Wilderness offers cool shade and secluded wildlife 3 EDITOR'S LETTER viewing to hikers willing to swim or wade to its more 4 VIEWFINDER remote reaches. See story, page 22. STEVE BRUNO Photo ops in your own back yard. FRONT COVER Monsoon clouds billow over blooming soaptree yuccas framing craggy buttes in the Dragoon 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP Mountains. See story, page 8. RANDY PRENTICE Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. n To order a print, see information on this page. 42 ALONG THE WAY BACK COVER Like a dewy jewel, a lone harebell Life lessons at the edge of a yip. in Hannagan Meadow presents a study in simplicity. See story, page 46. EDWARD MCCAIN 44 HIKE OF THE MONTH n To order a print, see information on this page. Easy Veit Springs Trail leads to a San Francisco Peaks fall color showcase. 46 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE Hannagan Meadow to Black River route offers relief and recollection. The Beauty of Language I was introduced to the beautiful pictures in Arizona Highways in 1953 and have been a subscriber for many AUGUST 2007 VOL. 83, NO. 8 editor’s letter years. Although I always enjoy your magazine and read it Publisher WIN HOLDEN Although it’s not easy to get from cover to cover, I do not always have the luxury of Editor ROBERT STIEVE to, West Clear Creek is well reading it when it arrives. Things in my life have a way of Senior Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN worth the effort. To see more Managing Editor SALLY BENFORD of “nature’s version of the getting a wee bit out of hand, and I often get a wee bit Book Division Editor BOB ALBANO Emerald City,” turn to page 22. behind in my reading. So it is that in May 2007, I am having Books Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL Special Projects Editor JOBETH JAMISON the pleasure of reading the May 2006 issue! What a treat! Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL I just finished your All Who Wander column, “My Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER dear editor Goofball Dog and Me.” One of my greatest pleasures is Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER seeing or hearing the English language used well. I cannot Photography Editor JEFF KIDA tell you how much I enjoy your use of the language. You Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY Deputy Art Director SONDA ANDERSSON PAPPAN seem to choose the perfect words: for example, “his spring-loaded legs,” “with the joy Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE of a heartbeat” and “run free, all stretch and leap and nose and tail.” One can see him Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY running with such a stride! Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI showcased their work on the pages Then there is “a coyote chorus is a primal yip into the sublime and crazed Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON of Arizona Highways. Likewise, the Webmaster VICKY SNOW subconscious of the wild, which invariably triggers a psychedelic flashback in my magazine featured some of the best Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO reptilian brain.” How delicious! writers in the Southwest. The same Robertby Stieve Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN arizonahighways.com Then, most beautiful of all, “the brilliant orange sliver of the sun breaks through the is true today. Gifted photographers @ Earth at the horizon, immolating the clouds.” What a picture! Finance Director BOB ALLEN like Jack Dykinga and Gary Ladd, and As a former teacher of English, I often cringe at the use (misuse) of our beautiful Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS superb writers like Chuck Bowden are editor language, but I rejoice in the proper display of its inherent beauty when used deftly and Inquiries or orders Toll-free: (800) 543-5432 frequent contributors. Their work, and Phoenix area or outside the U.S. (602) 712-2000 with precision to paint word pictures. STEVE BRUNO the excellent work of dozens of others, Or visit arizonahighways.com Thank you so much for the joy you have brought to one poor old teacher’s heart. I helps make this magazine the best and look forward to catching up with the rest of my Arizona Highways magazines with For Corporate or Trade Sales Dolores Field (602) 712-2045 most respected magazine in the state and particular anticipation of perusing the articles written by you. Letters to the Editor [email protected] beyond. 2039 W. Lewis Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85009 I can hardly wait. NOW I KNOW HOW Katie Couric must Whether you’re looking for a fly-fishing hole in the White Theresa Mahoney, Brookhaven, PA Governor have felt. Regardless of where she’d Mountains, a dose of Old West history or a sunset stroll JANET NAPOLITANO Thanks for your kind words for our former editor, Peter Aleshire, who left the magazine earlier this summer and Director, Department of Transportation been or what she’d accomplished in her through the red rocks of Sedona, Arizona Highways is the place returned to what he loves most — writing. He knows how to put words together in a unique way. You’ll see VICTOR M. MENDEZ career, there was no way she could have to turn. It’s been that way for more than 80 years, and this more of his stories in future issues. ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD anticipated the magnitude of sitting in a month, the tradition continues. As always, we feature a photo Chairman Joe Lane seat once occupied by Walter Cronkite. portfolio that’ll take your breath away. This time, it’s West Vice Chairman S.L. Schorr Members Delbert Householder, Robert M. Montoya, She might have imagined, but she Clear Creek, which, according to photographer Steve Bruno, BRANDON SULLIVAN Sky Island Brilliance subscription as we do have a computer. Felipe Andres Zubia, William J. Feldmeier, couldn’t have known. I can relate. I’m is “nature’s version of the Emerald City.” As you’ll see, he’s Barbara Ann “Bobbie” Lundstrom I am both thankful for and amazed by the Mr. and Mrs. Benhamou Albert, Périgny, France not Katie Couric, and I’m certainly not Walter Cronkite, but right. His photos are going to make you want to test the water, brilliant pictures and inspiring writing You can subscribe to our digital edition by going to International Regional Magazine Association Arizona Highways is the state’s equivalent of the CBS Evening and even though West Clear Creek isn’t easy to get to, it’s an 2005, 2004, 2003, 2001, 2000 Magazine of the Year in “Wild Eden” (May 2007). I hiked our Web site at arizonahighways.com and clicking on News, and as I take my seat in the editor’s chair, I’m in awe of adventure that’s well worth the effort. up to Atascosa Lookout in November “Digital Edition.” It’s an awesome new technology. Western Publications Association what came before me. Adventure can also be found in places like the Bradshaw 2006, and I knew right away that the 2006, 2004, 2002, 2001 Best Travel & In-transit Magazine Even my desk is impressive. On eBay, it wouldn’t fetch Mountains. That’s where writer Lori K. Baker headed when Society of American Travel Writers Foundation Tumacacori Highlands are a special place. Back to Greenlee County 2000, 1997 Gold Awards Best Monthly Travel Magazine much — maybe as much as a vintage Farrah Fawcett she wanted to jump off a cliff. No, it’s not what you think. Lori Jack Dykinga’s photos captured the natural I grew up in Morenci, and have the poster — but from a historical perspective, it’s the magazine’s was one of several women who signed up for a weekend camp Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the beauty I trust Congress will act to preserve. February 1967 issue of Arizona Highways, Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price: $24 a version of the Round Table. At least I think it is. So far, no to learn the nerve-wracking skill of rappelling.