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The Lost World of Glen Canyon

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The Lost World of Glen Canyon The Lost World Of Glen Canyon feel as though I’m traveling back through time as I round yet another bend in Davis Gulch, a tributary of the Escalante River in southern Utah. I’m descending deeper and deeper into a redrock labyrinth, which Ihasn’t seen the light of day for more than 30 years. Each new twist in the canyon walls reveals a succession of plant communities quickly reclaiming the newly exposed ground. Submerged beneath 60 feet of Lake Powell water just five years ago, the small clear steam at my feet now gurgles beneath a profusion of willows and eight-foot tall cottonwood trees swaying in the breeze. Before making this trip, I had visions of a muddy slog through silt- clogged, tamarisk-choked canyon bottoms. But now, my main impression is one of amazement Dry years in the West have lowered the level of Lake Powell and revealed long- submerged canyons Text And Photography By James Kay XX Outdoor Photographer Month 1997 XX My first impressions of Lake Powell came from the deck of a Captions for the opening spread and houseboat in the early ’80s. for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted here. Sheer red sandstone walls rose Let me know if we need more vertically out of the impossibly spaceCaptions for the opening spread and for thiese three shots to go here if blue water. At that point in time, you can fit them in the space alloted I had very little knowledge of the here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread wonders that lay beneath our and for thiese three shots to go here if boat as we chugged along. you can fit them in the space alloted here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread ” and for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread and for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread and for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread and for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted here. Let me know if we need more spaceCaptions for the opening spread and for thiese three shots to go here if you can fit them in the space alloted as I witness this canyon quickly recov- Hyde, Eliot Porter and Tad Nichols mid-’90s, I had explored every major ering its former natural diversity and worked feverishly to record the canyons canyon system in southern Utah. As mag- Glen Canyon Photo Challenges beauty as the waters of Lake Powell on film before they were inundated by nificent as these places were, I felt as he most difficult aspect of shooting the restored tion and casting its warm-reflected glow on the rock around you. drain away. the new reservoir. though I had been denied the prize, robbed canyons around Lake Powell is simply getting into the Beware of contrast. If you have direct rays of sunlight Lake Powell was created by the con- My first impressions of Lake Pow- of the chance to ever gaze with my own canyons. There are only a handful of locations that are illuminating part of your scene, the contrast between this struction of Glen Canyon Dam on the ell came from the deck of a houseboat eyes upon the wonders of Glen Canyon. T relatively easy to access from trailheads and most of 2 light and the shadowed areas will be extreme. This can Colorado River just across the Utah bor- in the early ’80s. Sheer red sandstone I sought out photographs and stories these require overnight backpacking. cause highlights to blow out while the shadows go completely der in Arizona in the early ’60s. As the walls rose vertically out of the impos- of Glen Canyon in books such as The Many of the most spectacular canyons are located between black. The only exception to this rule is if the sunlit portion of roiling waters of the Colorado River sibly blue water. At that point in time, Place No One Knew: Glen Canyon on the Escalante River and Glen Canyon Dam, and are difficult to your scene is very small compared to the entire framed subject, began to pool at the base of the coffer- I had very little knowledge of the won- the Colorado by Eliot Porter, published access overland. The only practical option for exploring these such as a sliver of light at the end of the canyon. dam, they began to back up into the ders that lay beneath our boat as we in the early ’60s in an attempt to rouse canyons is via motorboat. Since the marinas on the lake charge Long exposures. Exposures of 10 seconds or more may magnificent water-sculpted tributaries chugged along. I had first arrived in a nation’s attention as to what was about around $300 per day, plus gas, for their 19-foot motorboats, I be required in the dimmer canyon light so a tripod is a of Glen Canyon. Utah back in 1972 while the reservoir to be sacrificed in the name of “progress.” searched around and rented an 18-foot-long pontoon boat from 3 must. If you don’t have warm reflective light, you may find When the Bureau of Reclamation was still filling, and infatuated with the This beautiful book contained page after a friend for a more reasonable rate. that blue skylight entering the canyon from above may be a announced its plans in the early ’50s to high country of the West, I didn’t dis- page of images of the doomed canyons. problem. Use warming filters (such as the 81 series) or choose a install a 10-million ton concrete plug cover the canyons of the Colorado Plateau There were places with names like Music Photographing In Narrow Redrock Canyons shade or cloudy preset with white balance to compensate. across the river, everyone who knew the until several years later when the reser- Temple because of the wonderful acous- Light. The best light down in these deep narrow canyons is Special needs. Be sure to bring wide-angle lenses for hidden secrets of the place was shocked, voir was nearly full. tics provided by its huge subterranean during the middle of the day when shafts of sunlight pene- shooting in these narrow canyons. The challenge is to find horrified and unable to comprehend the As my obsession with the canyon- chamber; Hidden Passage, due to its 1 trate into the depths (unlike photographing sweeping land- 4 a pleasing composition where the range of light is within fact that this marvelous landscape they lands of Utah evolved, I began to under- almost invisible entrance where it drained scapes above the canyon rims where great light usually means acceptable values. A spot meter can be helpful so that you had come to love was about to be lost stand just what had been lost beneath into the Colorado River; and Twilight shooting at sunrise and sunset). Look for locations where sun- can meter the wide range in light between glowing walls and “forever.” Photographers such as Phillip the deep waters of Lake Powell. By the Canyon, which was so deep and narrow light is illuminating the wall across from or above your composi- dark shadows. XX Outdoor Photographer Month 1997 XX that harsh noonday light was reduced revisit the canyons as they were when to a soft-evening glow in its depths. I first arrived in the West more than But the most magical place, it 30 years ago. seemed, was a place called “Cathe- By the spring of 2003, arriving dral in the Desert,” located along a on the heels of yet another dry win- tributary of the lower Escalante River. ter, I set out to explore as many This deep subterranean chamber of drained-out canyons as I could before stone was regarded by people who the water level began to rise with the had explored Glen Canyon before the spring snowmelt. In the wider canyons, dam as perhaps the most glorious sin- high sediment banks rose on both gle location in all of Glen. sides of the streambeds, but I also A longtime friend, Maxine found narrow canyons where more Bounous, hiked into Cathedral before than 40 feet of accumulated sediment the lake inundated it. She once told had been already flushed out. me that Cathedral was located a short I compared old photographs to walk off the lower Escalante River what I was seeing and was aston- along a beautiful, wildflower-lined ished at the similarity. It was as if stream. She said the initial reaction the reservoir had never been. Small Captions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all on this spread to go in this spaceCaptions for all of nearly everyone who rounded that plants and ferns were already begin- last bend in the canyon and suddenly ning to reestablish hanging gardens found themselves staring into its glow- along the walls as cottonwood shoots, ing chamber was one of hushed silence willows and wildflowers spread across followed by a rush of words, trying newly exposed ground.
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