Friends & Lovers Tak'alik Ab'aj Lenten Season Begins
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Guatemala’s English-language Magazine February 2018 Year 26, No. 12 FREE revuemag.com Friends & Lovers Tak’alik Ab’aj Lenten Season Begins 4 1 2 3 4 5 1st PLACE by judges vote in the Revue Photo Contest: Friends & Lovers in Guatemala. “A New Beginning” Lake Atitlán, by Daniel Lopez Perez. Prize: Q200 and a Q500 Ganorsa Pet Care Package 6 7 2nd PLACE by judges vote in the Revue Photo Contest: Friends & Lovers in Guatemala. “María, Estella, and Xela laugh together as they head home after work.” San Marcos La Laguna, Sololá, by Eric Mencher. Prize: Q100 and a Q500 Ganorsa Pet Care Package 8 9 ON THE COVER : 3rd PLACE by popular vote in the Revue Photo Contest: Friends & Lovers in Guatemala. “Cásate conmigo / Marry me” Indian Nose, San From the Publishers Juan La Laguna, Atitlán, by Nehemias Sancoy his year Valentine’s Day is on the same day as Ash Wednesday, which leads us into Elizabeth Bell’s article, The Lenten Season Begins—starting the countdown to Holy Week. La Antigua TGuatemala holds the largest Holy Week celebration in the world. You can find the agenda for February vigils and processions on page 13. In the world of archaeology, Dr. Marion Popenoe de Hatch takes us on a mystical trip through time and space to the Olmec period and the site of Tak’alik Ab’aj. Moving forward Richard Wardell presents Bronze Casting, Preserving Colonial History and Style, noting the present-day artistic beauty in doorknobs, locks, knockers, hinges and wrought iron made by skilled artisans whose work is vital to the preservation of La Antigua Guatemala's colonial elegance. In honor of Valentine's Day, Amalia Moreno-Damgaard serves up a Latin Culinary Romance, complete with a recipe for Salsa Criolla Guatemala’s English-language Magazine that compliments grilled meat, sausage or served with croutons. REVUEmag.com • [email protected] Authoring Coin Collecting in Guatemala, Carlisle Johnson says that Publishers/Editors John & Terry Kovick Biskovich Associate Editor Matt Bokor he's a coin collector, and in one way or another, we're all coin collec- General Manager José Caal tors. But did you know that Guatemala is a paradise for coin collectors Photography César Tián, Luis Toribio Graphic Designer Hadazul Cruz of another sort? For enthusiasts, Banco Industrial's small but well-curat- Webmaster / Social Media JB Contributing Photographers ed coin museum is just steps from Central Park in La Antigua. Nelo Mijangos, Willy Posadas John Ohe offers another look at coins, but this has to do with Production Director Mercedes Mejicanos what you'll save or what it will cost you in his article U.S. Tax Reform Administrative Assistant María Solís Systems Luis Juárez Becomes Law. Distribution César Tián, Luis Toribio Ken Veronda is an aficionado of all the colors that can be spotted Maintenance Silvia Gómez Sales Representatives Ivonne Pérez, César Tián, in Guatemala. This month he points out that international fashion Denni Marsh, Fernando Rodas, Luis Toribio, designers, interior decorators, and paint manufacturers have included Lena Johannessen, José Pablo Visquerra Printed by PRINT STUDIO shades of Oceanside and seafoam within the "color of the year" 2018 Publishing Company palette. PRODUCCIONES PUBLICITARIAS ESTRELLA ANTIGUA, S.A. And please don't forget Datebook, it's jam-packed with events go- Readership 30,000 monthly ing on throughout the month of February. REVUE OFFICES: That's it for us folks. We wish you all a very Happy Valentine's LA ANTIGUA Day via the photo contest, "Friends and Lovers in Guatemala." Monday-Friday 9am-5pm 3a avenida sur #4-A (Central Office) TEL: (502) 7931-4500 revuemag.com — John & Terry Kovick Biskovich [email protected] SAN CRISTÓBAL Denni Marsh Tel: 5704-1029 REVUEmag.com PBX: (502) 7931-4500 SAN LUCAS Rodolfo Flores Tel: 3016-8557 El SAlvadoR [email protected] PRINT - MOBILE - ONLINE [email protected] El Salvador Regional Manager: Lena Johannessen REVUE is distributed free, and available at: Hotels, Restaurants, Travel Agencies, Car Rental Agencies, Col. Centroamérica Calle San Salvador #202, San Salvador Embassies, Spanish Schools, INGUAT offices, Shops, and other public places in the following areas: Tels: (503) 7981-4517, 7860-8632 Guatemala City, La Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Lake Atitlán, Cobán, Petén, Río Dulce, Lívingston and Monterrico Opinions or statements printed in the REVUE are not necessarily For upcoming cultural events and info on Antigua businesses, check TheAntiguaGuide.com those of the publishers. We welcome your comments. 10 11 22 72 18 54 14 Contents SECTIoNS 24 DateBook: FEBRUARY 13 tradition datebook highlights 41 Health Services Lent Activities during February 28 John Maxon Exhibition 79 Travel Agenda of events 34 The Great Gatsby Gala 92 Marketplace 95 Real Estate 14 guatemala INSIGHT 54 Amalia’S kitchen by Elizabeth Bell by Amalia Moreno-Damgaard REGIoNS The Lenten Season Begins A Latin Culinary Romance 35 Guatemala City starting the countdown to Holy Week and the Regional cuisines with distinct differences 46 La Antigua largest celebration in the world in La Antigua -- with recipe for Creole Sauce 81 Lake Atitlán Guatemala. 86 Pacific Coast 70 79 El Petén SENSOUS guatemala 90 Tecpán 18 archaeologY by Ken Veronda 90 Quetzaltenango by Dr. Marion Popenoe de Hatch photos: Kerstin Sabene Oceanside? This year’s new color? 91 Río Dulce Tak’alik Ab’aj - A Look Back Through Time and Space 72 numismatologY 10 From the Publishers Today the ruins slumber in higher dimensions. by Carlisle Johnson 47 MAP: La Antigua Coin Collecting in Guatemala 83 MAP: Lake Atitlán 22 artisanal 92 Vet Q & A by Richard Wardell 76 HOLA expat 94 Advertiser Index Bronze Casting by John Ohe Deadline for the MAR. 2017 Preserving Colonial History and Style U.S. Tax Reform Becomes Law issue is FEB. 10th PHoTo CoNTEST: “Friends & Lovers in Guatemala” All of the Feb. entrants can be seen at REVUEmag.com Here are the winners: Cover Nehemías Sancoy • 6 Daniel López Pérez • 8 Eric Mencher • 40 Paola Hernández • 44 Irene Valle • 96 Stacy Able PHOTO CONTEST FOR MARCH “Semana Santa in Guatemala” see pg. 30 12 12 13 Santa Catarina Bobadilla Procession, by Jorge Ordoñez Guatemala Insight by Elizabeth Bell author/historian The Lenten Season Begins ent begins this month on Ash Wednesday, Feb. 14, starting the countdown to Holy Week and the larg- Lest celebration in the world in La Antigua Guatemala! Yes, we out- did Seville, Spain a few years ago. The most exciting velaciones (holy vigils) and processions this month are from Santa Catarina Bobadilla and Santa Inés, both located on the outskirts of this magical city. Indeed, nothing seems to be more important for Antigüeños than cre- ating the incredible decorations for these religious celebrations, which date back to colonial times but have acquired a new air of their own. With such a packed schedule— more than 60 activities during a 40- day period—Lenten observances actually start the Saturday before Lent begins with the first velación at Santa Catarina Bobadilla. The church will be decorated with elab- orate displays honoring the Virgin Mary that will be in the procession on Feb. 18. Each year is a surprise because the design is kept top secret so everyone will be thrilled when they see it! 14 The velación represents the Gar- den of Gethsemane, which Jesus visited before being sentenced and crucified. The best time to visit is early in the morning—or you may battle the crowds later in the day, as it will be packed by 5 p.m. and stays open until after 9 p.m. The food in front of the church is also part of the folklore. The following velación is for the 1650 Christ figure on the First Fri- Santa Catarina Bobadilla Procession, by Jorge Ordoñez day of Lent (Feb. 16) at San José Cathedral and for the Christ figure in all of these are exquisite. at Santa Catarina Bobadilla on the The finest sawdust carpets for the processions are always found a few same day. The hermandad (brother- hours before each departs in the neighborhood of the church – Sunday, hood/sisterhood) at Santa Inés del Feb. 18, at Santa Catarina Bobadilla and Sunday, Feb. 25, at Santa Inés. Monte Pulicano also sponsors a vel- Thousands of carriers sign up in advance to carry the wooden figures ación on the Second Friday (Feb. of Christ, the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene and St. John around the 23). The dyed sawdust carpets made streets of Antigua. If a procession is going to pass by your house or business, it is cus- Holy Vigil from Sata Inés, by Mercedes Mejicanos tomary to invite friends and family to prepare a carpet on the street in front of your place with flowers, fruits and vegetables and dyed sawdust. While some designs are created months in advance, many are fashioned on the spot. All carpets are of equal importance. Virgin Mary from Santa Catarina Bobadilla, by Jorge Ordoñez 15 Santa Catarina Bobadilla Procession, by Jorge Ordoñez. The oldest processions date back to the 1500s with the cofradías and guilds. When the capital was moved to present-day Guatemala City in 1773, those religious figures were moved then too. However, Antigua was not procession-free for long—the city resumed Lenten processions in 1808 and has embraced them ever since. The number of Guatemalan-composed funeral marches played by the bands behind the wooden figures has also increased. For more information, my book, “Lent and Holy Week / Cuaresma y Semana Santa La Antigua Guatemala,” was recently updated (2017) and is available locally and on amazon.com. We remind guests not to carry any valuables to these activities because among the thousands of visitors are also some expert pickpockets.