THINKING AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

12–13 June 2016 Longyearbyen, Svalbard Dear Guests,

Welcome to Svalbard and ‘Thinking at the Edge of the World’, an international cross-disciplinary conference organ- ized by Northern Norway Art Museum (NNKM) and Office for Contemporary Art Norway (OCA). We are delighted that you have joined us for what we hope will be a truly

12—13 engaging, thought-provoking and rewarding experience together. This is a moment to reflect upon, and perhaps even begin refashioning, some of the central debates of our day – within the arts and beyond. 2016 June Our programme aims to engage all of you in creative, critical dialogue – forging a collective momentum with which to push, test and extend disciplinary boundaries. Your participation in the debates and discussions we hope to unfold here in Longyearbyen and its surroundings is crucial to this event, which advocates a sharing of perspectives and the genuine exchange – and cross-fertilisation – of multiple and productively disparate points of view. We hope that you will experience as many aspects as possible of the unique environment that is Svalbard today – a landscape of multiple layers and meanings, criss- crossed and shaped by a complex blend of increasingly interconnected geological, biological, technological and political-economic factors. Our schedule and the locations with which we will be engaging attempt to respond to and activate some of these variations in context, scale, time, typology and space. Svalbard and its future are sites of on-going experiment and negotiation. It is precisely this joint spirit of curious investigation and creative mediation that we wish to harness and foster, now and moving forwards, with you. Thank you again for joining us!

— Katya García-Antón Director, Office for Contemporary Art Norway (OCA)

— Jérémie Michael McGowan Director, Northern Norway Art Museum SATURDAY 11 JUNE / PRE-PROGRAMME VENUE Kunsthall Svalbard

8.30pm Exhibition opening ‘Olav Christopher Jenssen: The Expedition’

SUNDAY 12 JUNE / PROGRAMME MONDAY 13 JUNE / PROGRAMME VENUE VENUE VENUE VENUE VENUE Cinema Kulturhuset Lecture hall, Gruve 3 (mine) Cinema Kulturhuset Huset Longyeabyen University of Svalbard Longyeabyen (UNIS), Entry through Museum of Svalbard

OCEANS, FOOD, LANDS, WINDS, STREAMS, LANDS, OCEANS, FOOD, LANDS, WINDS, STREAMS, OCEANS, FOOD, MYTHS, AND SEA SETTLEMENTS, SKIES & AURORAS SETTLEMENTS, MYTHS, AND SEA SETTLEMENTS, SKIES & AURORAS MYTHS, AND SEA MONSTERS PEAKS, BONES AND PEAKS, BONES AND MONSTERS PEAKS, BONES AND MONSTERS APPROPRIATION APPROPRIATION APPROPRIATION

12am 9.50–10am 12.30–12.35pm 2.30–3.15pm 10–11.15am 2.35–2.50pm 4.30pm 10.30pm Film screening Welcome by Katya Introduction Conversation Panel discussion Introduction Sensory interventions: Music Leviathan (2012, 1h García-Antón and Emily King Lisa Philips with Panellists: Lucien Janike Kampevold Feedbacks DJ-set by Frost 27m), dir. Lucien Jérémie Michael Edwina van Gal and Castaing-Taylor, Larsen Emily King with (Aggie Peterson and Castaing-Taylor and McGowan 12.35–12.50pm Adam Kleinman Véréna Paravel, Nadjib Achaibou Per Martinsen) and Véréna Paravel Sensory interventions Camilla Svensen 2.50-4pm Mental Overdrive 10–10.45am Duration: 24 hours 3.20pm and Julie Decker. Tour of Gruve 3 4.50–5pm (Per Martinsen) with Conversation Emily King and Nadjib Screening Moderated by Francis Organized by Gruve 3 Closing Remarks by live visuals by Petra Candice Hopkins and Achaibou In Girum Imus Nocte McKee Katya García-Antón Hermanova featur- Niillas Somby (2016, 13m), dir. and Jérémie Michael ing historical photo- 2–2.30pm Giorgio Andreotta 11.15am–12pm McGowan graphs of Spitsbergen 11am–12pm Tour of Svalbard Calò Conversation by Herta Grøndal Panel discussion Museum AK Dolven with Kim Panellists: Robert with Director Tora 3.45–4.30pm Holmén OCEANS, FOOD, 11pm–late Templer, Lutz Hultgreen Comments and in- MYTHS, AND SEA Music Henke, Elena Isayev, terventions by Nabil 12.15–1pm MONSTERS DJ-set by Mental and Alberto Altés. Ahmed, Synnøve Comments and in- Overdrive Moderated by Katya Persen, Elin Øyen terventions by Luba 5pm García-Antón Vistner and Leif Kuzovnikova, Charis Film screening Magne Tangen, mod- Gullickson, and Jan Leviathan (2012, 1h 12–12.30pm erated by Antonio Martin Berg, moderat- 27m), dir. Lucien Conversation Cataldo ed by Ute Meta Bauer Castaing-Taylor and Olav Christopher Véréna Paravel Jenssen 4.30–4.45pm 2pm with Jérémie Michael Words by the Minister Screening McGowan of Culture, Linda Gáddegánddat – Hofstad Helleland Who’s Left on the Shore? (2003, 33 min.), dir. Niillas Somby CLOTHING IN SVALBARD SVALBARD The word Arctic comes from the Greek Arctic’s annual precipitation is low, with GUIDELINES word ἀρκτικός (arktikos), “near the Bear, most of the area receiving less than 50 cm Although the average temperature is below northern” and that from the word ἄρκτος (20 in). High winds often stir up snow, freezing, Svalbard has a relatively clement The local tourist business and the Governor (arktos), meaning bear. It also refers either creating the illusion of continuous snowfall. climate compared to other areas at the same have established a set of Svalbard Guide- to the constellation Ursa Major, the “Great Average winter temperatures can be as latitude. Average June temperatures range lines to describe how visitors should Bear”, which is prominent in the northern low as −40 °C (−40 °F), and the coldest from 1° to 4°C (34° and 39°F). Please dress behave. portion of the celestial sphere, or to the recorded temperature is approximately and pack for the weather. A warm, water- 1. Don’t be an Arctic litterbug! Leave no constellation Ursa Minor the “Little Bear”, −68 °C (−90 °F). Coastal Arctic climates and windproof jacket, extra jumpers and lasting signs of your visit. which contains Polaris, the Pole star, also are moderated by oceanic influences, hiking shoes are advisable. Most inside loca- 2. Birds and other animals are not to known as the North Star. having generally warmer temperatures and tions are heated unless otherwise stated. be disturbed. Remember, you are the Arctic countries are those that hold heavier snowfalls than the colder and drier guest. territories on or above the Arctic Circle. interior areas. The Arctic is affected by LIGHT CONDITIONS 3. Help take care of the biodiversity. In turn the Arctic region consists of an global warming, leading to Arctic sea ice 4. Do not pick flowers. ocean and adjacent seas with a seasonally shrinkage and Arctic methane release. The midnight sun and the polar night 5. Leave old cultural remains alone. The varying ice cover, surrounded by treeless Due to the pole-ward migration of the charaterise much of the year. In Longyear- law protects all traces of humans from permafrost. The area can be defined as planet’s isotherms (about 35 mi (56 km) byen, the midnight sun lasts from 20 April before 1946. north of the Arctic Circle (66° 33’N), the per decade during the past 30 years as a till 23 August. In mid-summer, the sun is 6. It is prohibited to lure, pursue or other- approximate limit of the midnight sun and consequence of global warming), the Arctic 35 degrees over the horizon during the day, wise seek out polar bears in such a the polar night. Alternatively, it can be region (as defined by tree line and temper- and 11 degrees at night. way as to disturb them or expose either defined as the region where the average ature) is currently contracting. Perhaps the bears or humans to danger. temperature for the warmest month (July) most spectacular result is the retreating SETTLEMENTS 7. Don’t leave settlements without a suit- is below 10 °C (50 °F); the northernmost glaciers. There is a large variance in the able gun, and experience in using it. tree line roughly follows the isotherm at the predictions of Arctic sea ice loss; some Longyearbyen is the largest settlement in 8. Be considerate to others. boundary of this region. models show near-complete to complete Svalbard, and is the archipelago’s admin- 9. Contact the Governor’s office Socially and politically, the Arctic region loss in 2040, while some estimate this will istrative centre. The other settlements are (Sysselmannen) if planning a longer currently includes the northern territories of happen well beyond 2100. About half of in Barentsburg, Ny-Ålesund, Hornsund, field excursion. A mandatory registra- the eight Arctic states, Canada, Denmark, the analyzed models show near-complete to Hopen and Bjørnøya. tion applies for travel to large parts of Finland, Iceland, Norway, Russia, Sweden, complete sea ice loss in September by the Longyearbyen is a community of Svalbard. and the United States, although by natural year 2100. families with schools, kindergartens, a 10. Acquaint yourself with the rules and science definitions, much of this territory is university campus, a local newspaper, regulations pertaining to travel and considered subarctic in climate. INDIGENOUS shops, restaurants, a hospital, a church other tourist activities in Svalbard. The Arctic region is a unique area POPULATIONS and cultural activities of various kinds. The 11. For the sake of both the environment among Earth’s ecosystems. For example, settlement was founded by the American and yourself, we recommend organised the cultures in the region and the Arctic Ancestral Circumpolar North indigenous John Munroe Longyear in 1906 and is tour arrangements. It is impossible to indigenous peoples have adapted to its peoples include the Buryat, Chukchi, inhabited by some 2,100 people, most be an invisible tourist, but we do appre- cold and extreme conditions. In recent Evenks, Inupiat, Khanty, Nenets, Sami, of them of Norwegian nationality, though ciate your trying. years, the extent of the sea ice has Yukaghir , and Yupik. The Sami people more than 40 nationalities are represented declined as a result of average tempera- constitute the largest indigenous commu- in the town. In the past, Longyearbyen was A BRIEF INTRODUCTION tures rising beyond their warmest peaks in nity in Europe and inhabit parts of the purely a mining community. Since the early TO THE ARCTIC at least the last 40,000 years. Life in the current day nations of Norway, Sweden, 1990s, however, it has gradually changed. Arctic includes organisms living in the ice Finland and the Kola Peninsula of Russia. Nowadays, tourism, research and educa- The Arctic is a polar region located at the such as zooplankton and phytoplankton, The Sami people (also Sámi or Saami) are tion have become central activities for the northernmost part of the Earth consisting fish and marine mammals, birds, land a Finno-Ugric people inhabiting an area community, together with mining. Sval- of the Arctic Ocean, and parts of the animals, plants and human societies, which known as Sápmi. They are an indigenous bard’s airport has flights to the mainland current day nations of Canada, Finland, are growingly at risk due to these changes. people of Scandinavia now recognized all year round. Longyearbyen Community Greenland (Denmark), Iceland, Norway, The Arctic’s climate is characterized by under the 1989 Indigenous and Tribal Council (Longyearbyen lokalstyre) has Russia, Sweden and the United States. cold winters and cool summers. Precipita- Peoples Convention (ILO-convention 169) authority over the infrastructure, planning tion mostly comes in the form of snow. The and subsequent proceedings, and are land-use, schools, kindergartens, amongst other issues. hence the northernmost indigenous people gap between local Sami groups (some- NATURAL TERRITORIAL of Europe. Sami ancestral lands span thing still present today) that sometimes RESOURCES CLAIMS an area of approximately 388,350 km2 has the character of an internal Sami (150,000 sq. mi.), which is approximately ethnic conflict. In 1913, the Norwegian The Arctic includes sizable natural No country owns the geographic North the size of modern Norway. Their tradi- parliament passed a bill, the “Native Land resources (oil, gas, minerals, fresh water, Pole or the region of the Arctic Ocean tional languages are the Sami languages, Act”, to allocate the best and most useful fish and, if the subarctic is included, surrounding it. The surrounding six Arctic which are classified as a branch of the lands to Norwegian settlers. Another factor forest) to which modern technology and the states that border the Arctic Ocean— Uralic language family. was the scorched earth policy conducted economic opening up of Russia have given Canada, Denmark (via Greenland), For long periods of time, the Sami life- in 1944-45 by the German Army, which significant new opportunities. The tourism Iceland, Norway, Russia, and the United style thrived because of its adaptation to inflicted heavy damages across northern industry is also on the increase. States—are limited to a 200 nautical miles the Arctic environment. Indeed, throughout Finland and northern Norway including the The Arctic is one of the last and most (370 km; 230 mi) exclusive economic zone the 18th century, as Norwegians of destruction of all existing houses, or kota, extensive continuous wilderness areas in (EEZ) off their coasts. Two Arctic states Northern Norway suffered from low fish and other visible traces of Sami culture. the world, and its significance in preserving (Finland and Sweden) do not have direct prices and consequent depopulation, the Reforms were relaxed after World War II, biodiversity and genotypes is considerable. access to the Arctic Ocean. Sami cultural element was strengthened, though their reach did extend into recent The increasing presence of humans frag- Upon ratification of the United Nations since the Sami were mostly independent of times—such as a 1970s law limiting ments vital habitats. The Arctic is particu- Convention on the Law of the Sea in 1982, supplies from Southern Norway. the size of any house Sami people were larly susceptible to the abrasion of ground- a country has ten years to make claims However, during the 19th century, allowed to build. cover and likewise to the disturbance of the to an extended continental shelf beyond Norwegian authorities pressured the Sami A 1979 controversy centred on the animal breeding grounds characteristic to its 200 nautical mile zone. Due to this, to make Norwegian language and culture construction of a hydroelectric power the region. The Arctic also holds 1/5 of the Norway (which ratified the convention in universal. Strong economic development station in Alta, Norway brought Sami rights Earth’s water supply. 1996), Russia (ratified in 1997), Canada of the north also ensued, giving Norwegian into the political limelight. In August 1986, (ratified in 2003) and Denmark (ratified culture and language higher status. On the national anthem “Sami soga lavila” INTERNATIONAL in 2004) launched projects to establish the Swedish and Finnish sides, the Sami and the Sami flag of the Sami people were COOPERATION claims that certain sectors of the Arctic language was also forbidden in schools and created; the first design of the flag came seabed should belong to their territories. strong economic development in the north from Sami poet and artist Synnøve Persen. The eight Arctic nations, Canada, Denmark On 2 August 2007, two Russian bath- led to weakened cultural and economic In 1989, the Sami parliament in Norway (representing also the dependencies of yscaphes, MIR-1 and MIR-2, successfully status for the Sami there as well. From was elected, after which parliaments were Greenland and Faroe Islands), Finland, descended to the Arctic seabed beneath 1913 to 1920, the Swedish race-segre- also created in Finland and in Sweden. In Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, and the the North Pole and placed a rustproof gation political movement created a race- 2005, the Finnmark Act was passed in United States of America, are all members Russian flag there. The mission was a based biological institute that collected the Norwegian Parliament giving the Sami of the Arctic Council, as are organizations scientific expedition, but the flag planting research material from living people parliament and the Finnmark Provincial representing six indigenous populations. generated commentary and concern of a and graves, and sterilized Sami women. Council a joint responsibility of adminis- The Council operates on consensus, mostly potential race to control the Arctic’s vast Throughout history, Swedish settlers were tering the land areas previously considered dealing with environmental treaties and not hydrocarbon resources. encouraged to move to the northern regions state property. These areas (96% of the addressing boundary or resource disputes. Foreign ministers and other officials through incentives such as land and water provincial area), which have always been Though Arctic policy priorities differ, representing Canada, Denmark, Norway, rights, tax allowances, and military exemp- used primarily by the Sami, now belong every Arctic nation is concerned about Russia, and the United States met in tions. officially to the people of the province, sovereignty and defence, resource develop- Ilulissat, Greenland on 28 May 2008 at the Strong pressure on the Sami people whether Sami or Norwegian, and not to ment, shipping routes, and environmental Arctic Ocean Conference and announced took place from around 1900 to 1940 the Norwegian state. The Council operates protection; however, regulatory agreements the Ilulissat Declaration blocking any “new when Norway invested considerable capital on consensus. It deals mostly with envi- regarding shipping, tourism, and resource comprehensive international legal regime and effort to wipe out Sami culture. Anyone ronmental treaties, and does not address development in Arctic waters are in flux. to govern the Arctic Ocean,” and pledging who wanted to buy or lease state lands boundary or resource disputes. Research in the Arctic has long been a “the orderly settlement of any possible for agriculture in Finnmark had to prove collaborative international effort, evidenced overlapping claims.” knowledge of the Norwegian language and perhaps most notably by the International As of 2012, Denmark is claiming the had to register with a Norwegian name. Polar Year. The International Arctic Science continental shelf between Greenland and This caused the dislocation of the Sami Committee, and the Barents Euro-Arctic the North Pole. The Russian Federation is People in the 1920s, which increased the Council are more examples of collaborative also claiming a large swath of seabed along international Arctic research. the Lomonosov Ridge, but confined this to its Arctic sector. THE SVALBARD ‘THINKING AT THE EDGE a ‘Noah’s Ark’ of sorts by harbouring the ARCHIPELAGO OF THE WORLD’ Svalbard Global Seed Vault, which reminds us of the current debate on botanical Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in AN INTRODUCTION extinction, stores, and their contamination. the Arctic Ocean. Situated north of main- The notion of a future re-seeding of the land Europe, it is about midway between Northern Norway Art Museum (NNKM) world might appear a utopian endeavour, continental Norway and the North Pole. and the Office for Contemporary Art (OCA) and yet it carries with it complex ques- The islands of the group range from 74° are hosting an international, cross-discipli- tions around power, nutrition, renewal and to 81° north latitude, and from 10° to 35° nary discussion on Svalbard this summer, survival, which are at the heart of today’s east longitude. The largest island is Spits- reflecting upon how the unique geopolitical global debate. bergen, followed by Nordaustlandet and vantage point that is the Svalbard Archi- Svalbard is also the home of Edgeøya. pelago spurs inspiring thinking regarding researchers from around the globe who Administratively, the archipelago is not the world at large, and across many disci- conduct studies in fields ranging from part of any Norwegian county, but forms plines of enquiry. ‘Thinking at the Edge of science and politics to geography, law an unincorporated area administered by the World’ is conceptualised around the and beyond. This includes research into, a governor appointed by the Norwegian linked keywords of ‘conservation’, ‘expend- amongst other things, the oceans, the sea government. Since 2002, Svalbard’s main iture’ and ‘amplification’, and brings ice edge, marine mammals, arctic botany, settlement, Longyearbyen, has had an together leading international voices in the polar micro-organisms, extreme-environ- elected local government, somewhat similar arts and beyond to discuss some of the ment technology, maritime trade-routes, to mainland municipalities. Other settle- most pressing issues of our time. the psychological effects of extended ments include the Russian mining commu- The experience of being on Svalbard is light exposure and the notion of sensory nity of Barentsburg, the research station unique. The impact of global warming is tourism. Svalbard is home to a community of Ny-Ålesund, and the mining outpost of clearly evident, and one senses in a very that nevertheless can never truly be one, Sveagruva. Svalbard is the northernmost physical way the fragility of the landscape since the law prevents births or deaths on settlement in the world with a permanent and its ecosystem. Shifts in the environ- the archipelago. civilian population. It does not have a Sami mental balance of Svalbard have immediate An arena for kaleidoscopic global community, in fact by law no births or and amplified meteorological repercussions thought, Svalbard therefore brings forth deaths are permitted on the archipelago, in distant geographies such as those of the histories of survival, territorial delimitation meaning inhabitants are only ever tempo- Bangladeshi coastal regions. Svalbard (the and continuous reinvention as much as it rary. Other settlements are farther north, Arctic) and South Asia are thus atmospher- paves the way for the considerations that but are populated only by rotating groups ically related. will formulate future societies. For all of of researchers; e.g. Alert, Nunavut —the Pivotal to Svalbard’s environmental its facets, we feel there could be no better northernmost year-round community. situation is the question of energy, and in place to launch ‘Thinking at the Edge of this regard the archipelago has been and the World’ as a platform of enquiry that we continues to be a fulcrum of global import. hope will catalyse significant international A case in point is the so-called ‘first oil debate and heighten its reach. wave’ of the 17th century driven by whale ‘Thinking at the Edge of the World’ hunters from diverse provenances – their gathers local, regional and international degrading graves are at the heart of a professionals across disciplines with an discussion regarding the conservation of interest in thinking differently about the world cultural heritage. Later in the 20th world. Eschewing traditional keynote century, mining activities, now almost at lectures, the event is articulated as a series the point of exhaustion, still reverberate of group discussions, participatory exper- with geopolitical registers. iments and short maritime and subter- The future of agriculture and our ranean journeys exploring perspectives continued expenditure of food supplies beyond the arts, and towards the realms takes centre stage when it comes to ener- of science, politics, history, architecture, getic concerns. The archipelago acts as economy, anthropology and ethics. Saturday, 11 June 2016

THINKING AT THE EDGE SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY SATURDAY OF THE WORLD’ For people on the flight landing at 7:35pm, transport from the airport will be arranged to take you directly to Kunsthall Svalbard for the pre-programme

PRE-PROGRAMME

VENUE: Kunsthall Svalbard

8:30pm 9:20pm Exhibition Opening Transport to Coal Miners’ Cabin ‘Olav Christopher Jenssen: and Spitsbergen hotels for check The Expedition’ in. Radisson hotel is within walking distance (2 minutes away from Exhibition dates: Kunsthall Svalbard) 11 June–25 September 2016 9:50pm Northern Norway Art Museum opened Departure from Coal Miners’ Cabin Kunsthall Svalbard in 2015 as a dedicated and Spitsbergen hotels by bus to exhibition and project space for interna- Kroa restaurant. tional contemporary art. The Kunsthall’s For guests at Radisson hotel, Kroa is inaugural Artist in Residence project within walking distance. presents a series of exploratory probes by Olav Christopher Jenssen into the biolog- 10:00–11:15pm ical, geo-political and cultural aspects Dinner of Svalbard’s contemporary landscape. Venue: Kroa Jenssen brought with him to Longyearbyen Special reservation or coupon might two custom-made expedition cases, each be required for this event housing 25 aluminium plates upon which to record and react to his experiences 11:15–11:45pm in the Arctic. These plates are informed Drinks in turn by a group of over 200 watercol- VENUE: Karlsberger pub ours that served as an initial mode of investigation and capture. Added to this 11:45pm are elements transposed from Jenssen’s Walk to Cinema Kulturhuset temporary studio in Longyearbyen, a Longyeabyen makeshift atelier inhabited by zoological specimens from the old Svalbard Museum. The underlying experimental nature of ‘The Expedition’ resonates with previous histo- ries of Arctic exploration imagery, while simultaneously linking to the wide spec- trum of scientific research activities central to Svalbard’s identity today.

Curated by Jérémie Michael McGowan

Reception at Kunsthall Svalbard SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY Sunday, 12 June 2016

PROGRAMME

OCEANS, FOOD, MYTHS, LANDS, SETTLEMENTS, PEAKS, AND SEA MONSTERS BONES AND APPROPRIATION

A series of screenings and conversations A series of conversations around concrete CANDICE HOPKINS is a curator and writer ROBERT TEMPLER is Director of The unfolding the narrative constructions and metaphorical notions of land addressing based in Albuquerque, New Mexico and Center for Conflict, Negotiation and around oceans, alongside a panel of film- their conquest, domestication, and demo- a curatorial advisor for Documenta 14, Recovery, Central European University, makers, anthropologists, artists, Arctic graphics, as well as the socio-political opening in Athens and Kassel in 2017 Budapest, Hungary marine biologists, curators and writers. The and environmental crisis unleashed by the NIILLAS SOMBY is a Sami writer and polit- LUTZ HENKE is a cultural scientist and panel, and correlated activities, debate the changing processes of climate, occupation ical rights activist curator who recently collaborated on realities of life in the Arctic, its peoples and settlement. The session opens with a the project Black Flag by artist Santiago and ecosystems, the future and past of particular reference to the Nordic north as Coffee break Sierra, in the North and South Pole water fluidly in relation to global food and it considers the conflicted history of that ELENA ISAYEV is Professor of Ancient survival systems, and the human obsession region’s Sami people (the largest indigenous 11:00am–12:00pm History at the University of Exeter, with the deep. community in Europe) whose nomadic life- Panel discussion Exeter, UK style has been challenged in modern times Panellists: Robert Templer, Lutz Henke, Alberto Altés is an architect, researcher 12:00am by questions of ownership and usage of Elena Isayev and Alberto Altés Moder- and lecturer at Umeå School of Archi- Film screening land and its resources, nation states and ated by Katya García-Antón tecture, Umeå, Sweden VENUE: Cinema Kulturhuset borders, mobility and belief. The partici- Across the world the explosion of numerous KATYA GARCÍA-ANTÓN is the Director and Longyeabyen pants include Sami activists and artists, old and new conflicts (armed and environ- Curator of the Office for Contemporary highlighting economic, spiritual, historical, mental) are leading to large-scale displace- Art Norway, Olso and Tromsø, Norway Leviathan (2012, 1h 27m), dir. Lucien legal, environmental, aesthetic and poetic ment of communities searching for new Castaing-Taylor and Véréna Paravel questions. Indigenous alliances to connect homes, temporary refuge or permanent Followed by Q&A Leviathan is a work of nonfiction apparent local issues with global ones are asylum for political or economic reasons. set entirely on a groundfish trawler also explored. Their movements catalyse complex debates 12:00–12.30pm departing from New Bedford, Massa- regarding social friction and intolerance, Conversation chusetts, the very port from which VENUE: Lecture hall, UNIS, Entry through as well as the nature of our planetary Olav Christopher Jenssen with Herman Melville’s Pequod gave chase Museum of Svalbard responsibility to others. If the paucity of a Jérémie Michael McGowan to Moby Dick. Avoiding standard equip- welcoming infrastructure within receiving Framed within a critical historiography of ment and traditional interviews, anal- 9.50–10am nations has become a crisis in itself, these Arctic exploration, its attendant expedition ysis and explanation, Leviathan impres- Welcome by Katya García-Antón and social displacements are enabling new imagery, and the varying discourses about sionistically captures the collaborative Jérémie Michael McGowan forms of political brinkmanship. the Artic that such images have spawned, clash of man, nature and machine. Terms like ‘crisis,’ ‘migration,’ ‘explo- this dialogue explores the ways in which Shot on a number of small cameras — 10:00–10:45am ration’ and ‘conquest’ continue to pervade the north is both imaged and imagined. passed from fisherman to filmmaker — Conversation modern and mediatic global rhetoric. Held in proximity to one of the world’s it is a cosmic portrait of one of human- Candice Hopkins and Niillas Somby The Cold War confrontations of old once leading research parks for Arctic studies, kind’s oldest endeavours. Calling forth the experiences of indigenous again inform many territorial debates. Yet the talk advocates productive synergies communities across diverse landscapes evidence from the ancient world chal- between artistic and scientific experimental 1:30am and cultures, Candice Hopkins and Niillas lenges our current understanding of social practices. Walk to hotel, or collective cab available Somby will discuss the forms and language displacement, reminding us of the more for Coal Miners’ Cabin and Spitsbergen behind historical and contemporary politics quotidian historic nature of mobility. This OLAV CHRISTOPHER JENSSEN is one of hotels of resistance. Taking the perspectives of panel sets forth aesthetics propositions, Norway’s most acclaimed contemporary arts and activism as a starting point, their technological queries, and architectural artists 9:30am discussion will link circumpolar and global responses to look at other forms of mobility JÉRÉMIE MICHAEL MCGOWAN is Director Walk to University Centre in Svalbard debates on the subject. and territorial usage that can stoke a of Northern Norway Art Museum, (UNIS). Pick up for Coal Miners’ Cabin rethinking of Arctic and world geopolitics. Tromsø, Norway and Spitsbergen hotels Followed by Q&A SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY

WINDS, STREAMS, LANDS, SETTLEMENTS, PEAKS, SKIES & AURORAS BONES AND APPROPRIATION

An experiment reflecting upon the ampli- Lunch break catered by 2:30–3:15pm A fire that accompanies the travelling dis- fication of sensory experiences and the the Museum’s canteen Conversation tance of the miners and fishermen. Change impact of extended sunlight hours on the Lisa Philips in conversation with of substance from one physical state to an- mind and body, humans and other species, 2:00–2:30pm Edwina van Gal and Adam Kleinman other. An entropic event transforming matter and non-living organisms. Tour of Svalbard Museum with Addressing larger issues of art and the and symbols.’ These words of Giorgio Andre- Director Tora Hultgreen environment, the participants present otta Calò encapsulate the action undertaken 12:30–12:45pm specific examples that connect design to by the artist in a small village in the south Introduction sustainability and natural landscapes, as west of Sardinia, Italy – home to a local Emily King well as to chemical pollution and technolo- population of fishermen and miners, the Over the last year Emily King has been gies that affect native species. The discus- only inhabitants of town – on the evening developing a proposal for a natural-light sion opens up proposals for transitioning of 4 December 2014. They walked together festival. While most light festivals amount to new forms of Earth maintenance and from dawn to dusk, and reached a burning to large-scale displays of artificial light, management that can contribute to climate boat. The boat, tool of the fishermen, burns becoming effectively light pollution, King change resiliency. and ‘becomes’ coal, thus connecting the two draws from Longyearbyen’s extraordinary categories of workers. The film goes beyond light quality and duration as a source of Followed by Q&A the artist’s action to open up old and new inspiration for her future research. questions raised by their impoverished ex- LISA PHILIPS is the Toby Devan Lewis ploitation of earth and sea. EMILY KING is a design historian, writer Director of the New Museum, NY, New and curator based in London, UK York, USA GIORGIO ANDREOTTA CALÒ is an artist EDWINA VON GAL is an American land- living and working in Amsterdam, The 12:35–12:50pm scape designer based in East Hampton, Netherlands, and Venice, Italy Sensory interventions New York, and Founder of The Perfect Duration: 24 hours Earth Project 3:45–4:30pm Emily King and Nadjib Achaibou ADAM KLEINMAN is a writer, editor, Comments and interventions about the In collaboration with the perfumer Nadjib curator, lecturer and is currently Editor- day by Nabil Ahmed, Synnøve Persen Achaibou, Emily King has been developing in-Chief & Adjunct Curator at Witte and Elin Már Øyen Vistner, Leif Magne a scent, which will be released to magnify de With Center for Contemporary Art, Tangen, moderated by Antonio Cataldo or alter the perception of light, time and Rotterdam, The Netherlands and is place in Longyearbyen by encouraging Associate Curator of OCA’s programme NABIL AHMED is an artist, writer and a sensory experience akin to synaes- “Thinking at the edge of the world. Professor at The CASS, London, UK thesia. Skies will be smelled, locations Perspectives from the North” SYNNØVE PERSEN is a Sami poet and a will be tasted and seconds will evapo- visual artist rate, affecting the discussions, feasting, Coffee Break ELIN MÁR ØYEN VISTER is an artist and dancing, sleeping and sport during the founder of the residency programme following twenty-four hours. 3:20pm Røst AiR in the Røst archipelago, the Screening outermost part of the Lofoten archi- EMILY KING is a design historian, writer In Girum Imus Nocte (2015, 13m), pelago, Norway and curator based in London, UK dir. Giorgio Andreotta Calò LEIF MAGNE TANGEN is the Director of NADJIB ACHAIBOU is a perfumer based in ‘I imagine a wooden boat on fire. A fire that the Tromsø Kunstforening, Tromsø, London, UK illuminates the night and slowly consumes Norway and transforms the fishing boat in coal. ANTONIO CATALDO is Senior Programmer at the Office for Contemporary Art Norway, Oslo and Tromsø, Norway MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY ------is an anthropol is Associate is Professor is a filmmaker and and a filmmaker is is Director of CCA, of Director Glas is

Coffee Break Break Coffee is CEO and Director of An of Director and CEO is AK Dolven with Kim Holmén Kim with Dolven AK visual artists Sval Institute, Norwegian Polar the of bard, Norway chorage Anchorage, Museum, AK, USA Scotland gow, Conversation ogist, filmmaker and Professorand Har at filmmaker ogist, MA, USA Cambridge, University, vard Sensory the at working anthropologist Center Study Film Lab and Ethnography MA, Cambridge, Harvardat University, USA Arctic the at Biology Marine Arctic in Norway Tromsø, Norway, of University Arctic of concerns larger the within Framed address Dolven’s will Holmén Kim politics, artistic audio-acoustic researchongoing the of recordings Dolven cod. Arctic the of Northeast the of cod Arctic calls mating choral the unveils habitat, its natural in reveals as it ocean as the much of poetics and factors of (depth balance delicate the impinge fractured will if which temperature) En cycles. reproductive marine on seriously water the rods,and fishing propellers, gines, memories record of become a vibrant itself geographical the tracing interferences, and disturbancehuman of the planet. Q&A by Followed Norway’s of foremost one is DOLVEN AK is the International Director HOLMÉN KIM LUCIEN CASTAING-TAYLOR FRANCIS MCKEE 11:15am–12:00pm VÉRÉNA PARAVEL CAMILLA SVENSEN DECKER JULIE - - - PROGRAMME AND SEAAND MONSTERS Monday, 13 June 2016 June 13 Monday, OCEANS, FOOD, MYTHS,OCEANS, FOOD, : Gruve 3 (mine) : Gruve (1851) still casts a long shadow over casts over shadow a long still (1851) : The room is heated, but please wear but room: The heated, is Guests to be picked up at hotels hotels at up be picked to Guests upon available snacks and Coffee on location arrival Panel discussion Castaing-Taylor, Lucien Panellists: Svensen and Paravel, Camilla Véréna Francis Moderated by Decker. Julie McKee VENUE NOTE the be until out will we Since warm clothes. to advisable is it evening, the in festivities those For clothes. of easy an change bring to remember kindly 2:30am the on flight, mine. the departure to to prior out check and Luggage hotel be can stored the at airport. the to way the on up picked 9:15am 10:00–11:15am mesmerising, and humorous Sagacious, Herman Melville’s The or, Moby-Dick; Whale As a back issues time. cogent our of the drop illustrating the beginning of economic, economic, of beginning the illustrating drop that changes environmental and scientific panel this today, relevance continued have to ‘vessels’ exploration of use Melville’s will of role the and food industry, the look into as plastics, such materials contaminating deep the of food chain the in oil and coal be drama will sea. these How alterations tized in future storytelling is dependent on on dependent is storytelling future in tized to us enable that perception of tools the ethnog as the on see oceans, as much the vessels upon that navigation of raphy research them. Q&A by Followed - - Transport available to all hotels hotels all to available Transport Boat trip, dinner, informal discussions informal dinner, Boat trip, Aboard MS Polargirl be required might reservation Special event this for Sailing off from the harbour the from off Sailing Transport available from all hotels hotels all from available Transport harbour to Walk to hotel. Transport to Coal Miners’ Miners’ Coal to Transport hotel. to Walk prepare to hotels Spitsbergen and Cabin the for warmly Dress evening. the for be will Dinner trip. boat evening’s can temperature the and served outside the past, the In 0°Cgo below (32°F). been has temperature lowest average -8.4°C is low record the (30.2°F); -1°C (16.9°F) Words by the Norwegian the by Words Hofstad Linda Culture, of Minister

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environment across world. the environment upon his experience in lobbying for the the for lobbying in experience his upon the Svalbard Archipelago crucial for under for crucial Archipelago Svalbard the as commenting as consequences, well their ronmental and conservation concerns in in conservation concerns and ronmental and changes environmental global standing commentary will highlight significant envi significant highlight commentary will and glaciology during the journey. Holmén´s Holmén´s journey. the during glaciology and who will discuss questions of biodiversity biodiversity of questions discuss will who the Norwegian Polar Institute, Svalbard, Svalbard, Institute, Norwegian Polar the by Kim Holmén, International Director of of Director International Holmén, Kim by led front glacier to a A five-hour boattrip

7:00pm–12:00am

7:00pm

6:30pm 4:45pm Helleland

4:30–4:45pm 4:30–4:45pm

SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY - (2012, 1h 27m), dir. dir. 27m), 1h (2012, : Cinema Kulturhuset Kulturhuset : Cinema Bjørndalen : Fuglefjella, AND SEAAND MONSTERS OCEANS, FOOD, MYTHS,OCEANS, FOOD, Film screening Film VENUE Véréna and Castaing-Taylor Lucien Huset to Transport Dinner Huset at dinner Closing be required might reservation Special event this for Walk Bear Valley) in Mountains (The Bird Longyearbyen from 5 km approx. tion is on a first come, first served basis. If basis. served first come, a first on is tion an send please attending in interest are you emailto [email protected] a leading is Øyen Már Vister Artist Elin sense, to walk sound meditative collective non-human better know the to get and by be a walk will It Svalbard. of inhabitants where Bear valley) (the Bjørndalen into foot leads route The rich. is florafauna and the into and valleys inland the fjords, the along seabird pelagic the where mountains, the to hope The is be found. are to colonies geese, auks, murres, guillemots, see little a Svalbard even maybe and fulmars gulls, Svalbard local the and fox polar ptarmigan, experience to be possible will It reindeer. 5:00pm Longyeabyen Leviathan Paravel 6:30pm 7:30–10:00pm 7:30pm–12:00am places)(optional, limited VENUE registra and limited extremely are Places by Katya García-Antón Katya by García-Antón is a perfumer is based in is a design historian, writer writer historian, a design is WINDS, STREAMS, SKIES & AURORASSKIES : Cinema Kulturhuset Longyeabyen Kulturhuset : Cinema Sensory interventions experiment King’s Emily to Feedback Achaibou Nadjib with conducted UK London, based in curator and London, UK London, Remarks Closing McGowan Michael Jérémie and MILY KINGMILY 4.30pm VENUE E ACHAIBOU NADJIB 4.50–5pm - BONES AND APPROPRIATION AND BONES LANDS, SETTLEMENTS, PEAKS, Transport to Cinema Kulturhuset Kulturhuset Cinema to Transport ciate Professor of School Oslo the at ciate project Design and and Architecture Arctic multidisciplinary the leader of Northresearch Future project Tour of Gruve 3 Gruve of Tour 3 Gruve by Organized Introduction 4:00pm Longyeabyen In advance of visiting the Gruve 3 mine, 3 mine, Gruve the visiting of advance In introduce Larsen will Kampevold Janike of convergence the about some thoughts forces in economic and political geologic, Longyearbyen, and how the multi-layered possibilities up opens landscape Svalbard varying between into and projecting of materialities. 2:50-4:00pm KAMPEVOLD LARSEN is AssoJANIKE 2:35–2:50pm - - Niillas , dir. is the Director of of Director the is (2003, 33 min.) political rights activist Screening the on Left – Who’s Gáddegánddat Lunch break Lunch rary Art, Singapore Norway Tromsø, NNKM, Longyearbyen,Svalbard, Norway Comments and interventions about Charis Kuzovnikova, Luba by day the Berg, Martin Jan and Gullickson, Meta Bauer Ute moderated by Norway Kirkenes, på Broen, Pikene NTU of CentreDirector for Contempo the life by the river as well as their dissatis as their as well river the by life the describing their concerns for the future of of future the for concerns their describing and writer a Sami is SOMBY NIILLAS people from the local Sami community community Sami local the from people faction with local and national authorities. Niillas Somby’s documentary presents Somby’s Niillas a major impact on the local community. community. local the on impact a major the Sami of their traditional rights and had had and rights traditional their of Sami the Act, which still applies, deprived deprived applies, still which Act, The river. on who was permitted to fish in the Tana Tana the in fish to was who on permitted the Tana Act (of 1888) making restrictions restrictions (of Act 1888) making Tana the In 1911 the Norwegian Government revised revised Norwegian Government the 1911 In Somby Shore?

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is Curator at at Curator is GULLICKSON CHARIS Galleri of Director is BERG MARTIN JAN 1:00–2:00pm 12:15–1:00pm LUBA KUZOVNIKOVA Founding the is BAUER UTE META

MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY - - - - Manager of Center for for Center of Manager Cultural Initiatives, Petrozavodsk. scape based designer and East Hampton in Perfect The of Founder Earth Project. Curator of Architecture Depart the Design in and Modern and of ment Contemporary Art The at Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Art Quarterly, Inuit of Toronto. Murmansk. Gallery 49, Office of Director the Contemporaryfor Art and Oslo Norway, Tromsø. writing journalist lance for Frankfurter Allge based is in and meine Oslo. Department in Cultural County Council, Troms Tromsø. Residency of Curator Programmes the at National Centre for Contemporary Arts, St Petersburg. Northernat Norway Art Museum, Tromsø. Tromsø at Curator is Tromsø. Kunstforening, Feklistova, Varvara is Feklistova, a land is von Edwina Gal, Associate is Beatrice Galilee, Editor is Britt Gallpen, of Manager is Ivan Galuzin, Katya is García-Antón, a free is Alva Gehrmann, Head the of is Eirin Gjelsås, is Elena Gubanova, Curator is Charis Gullickson, Hanne Gudrun Gulljord, - - - ally renowned Norwegian ally between artist living Lofoten the and London archipelago. based in writer lance contributor and Athens, to Artforum. artist three of – one Kurant persons running Tromsø. in Visningsrom of Director and Curator Art Trust, Fiorucci The London. Programmer Officeat Contemporaryfor Art and Oslo Norway, Tromsø. Special of Director the Magnum The at projects New York. Foundation, Rometti with duo artistic Costales Mexico based in City. at Curator Touring Northern Norway Art Museum, Tromsø. Museum Anchorage the Center, Rasmuson at Anchorage. basedphotographer in Oslo. DepartLeader the at Art of ment Culture and County Nordland in Bodø. Council, Drake, Cathryn, is a free Cathryn, is Drake, an is Camilla Fagerli, is Milovan Farronato, Cataldo, Antonio is Senior Senior is Antonio Cataldo, is Catherine Chermayeff, Costales, part is an Victor of Exhibition is Lise Dahl, of Director is Julie Decker, a is Herman Dreyer, Project is Kristoffer Dolmen, internation an is AK Dolven, - - - perfumer based in EFF at working London, member founding a and Crossmodalism. of Professor and writer at The CASS, London. tect, researcher a tect, and School Umeå at lecturer Architecture. of Svalbard, Governor of Longyearbyen. Officer at Relations Officefor Contemporary Art and Oslo Norway, Tromsø. based in writer lance a contributor and London Art Papers Ocula, to and LEAP magazine. Director of Nanyang Technological University, Centre for Contemporary Art in Singapore. Long Svalbard, Galleri of yearbyen. Department the for of Troms in Art Culture and Tromsø. County Council, PR, Sutton at Director London. Sensory the of Director Lab, Ethnography Harvard University, Chambridge. List of Participants Participants of List a is Nadjib Achaibou, artist, an is Nabil Ahmed, archi an is Alberto Altés, Askholt, Kjerstin is the the is Kjerstin Askholt, External is Aspen, Aurora a free is Stephanie Bailey, Founding Meta is Ute Bauer, Director is Martin Berg, Jan Advisor is Jasmina Bosnjak, Associate Matthew is Brown, is Lucien Castaing-Taylor, Tuesday, 14 June 2016 June 14 Tuesday, from hotels hotels from Transport for airport available available airport for Transport

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TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY TUESDAY -

Transport for airport available at Huset Huset at available airport for Transport pick luggage for hotels at stops with to back transport for arranged Cabs up. overnight staying guest for hotels Drinks and celebration Overdrive DJ-set Mental by Music DJ-set (Aggie Frost by Peterson and Per Martinsen) and Mental Overdrive by visuals live with (Per Martinsen) historical featuring Hermanova Petra Herta by Spitsbergen of photographs Grøndal Bar opens founder of the residency programme residency the of founder the Røst archipelago, the in Røst AiR archi outermost part Lofoten the of Norwaypelago, 12:15am

11:00pm–late

10:30pm 10:00pm VENUE: Huset is an artist and artist an and is MÁR ØYEN VISTER ELIN Dwarf Birch and Alpine Rock Cress. Rock Alpine and Dwarf Birch and flowers such as the Svalbard Poppy, Poppy, Svalbard the flowersas and such rock formations and to spot artic plants spot artic plants to and formations rock

MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY MONDAY Hauen, Anne Charlotte is Isayev, Elena is Associate Martin, Julia is Residency Perander, Knut is Advisor Shaw, Anny is a freelance Grant and Administra- Professor in Classic and Manager at Skaftell for Innovation Norway, writer for The Art News- tions Officer at Office Ancient History at the Centre for Visual Art, Tromsø. paper, The Guardian and for Contemporary Art University of Exeter. Seydisfjordur. Persen, Synnøve is a Norwe- The Daily Telegraph, Norway, Oslo and Jenssen, Olav Christopher Martinsen, Per (Mental gian Sami poet and artist London. Tromsø. is an internationally Overdrive) is a musician based in Porsanger. Somby, Niillas is a Sami Hegdal, Sissel Knutsen is acclaimed Norwegian and performer based in Peterson, Aggie (Frost) is political-rights activist, the Chair of the Board artist based in Berlin. Tromsø. a musician based in journalist and photogra- at Northern Norway Art Khadartsev, Oleg is Project McGowan, Jérémie is Tromsø. pher, Tana. Museum, Tromsø. Coordinator at Friday- Director of Northern Phillips, Lisa is the Toby Stiefenhofer, Cornelius is Helgesen, Leif Magne is the milk, Murmansk. Norway Art Museum, Devan Lewis Director co-curator and project local Priest in Longyear- King, Emily is a writer and Tromsø. of the New Museum of manager at Pikene på byen. curator based in London. McKee, Francis is the Contemporary Art, New Broen, Kirkenes. Henke, Lutz is a cultural Kjeldstad, Berit Johanne is Director of the Centre York. Svendsen, Camilla is Asso- scientist and curator the Head of the Board at for Contemporary Arts, Ramos, Filipa is editor-in- ciate professor in Marine based in Berlin. UNIS, Longyearbyen. Glasgow. chief of art-agenda, Biology at the University Hermanová, Petra is a Berlin Olsen, Arild is Chairman of London. of Tromsø, Tromsø. based DJ/VJ working Kjelstrup, Bodil is Head the board in the Long- Reutz, Marit is Head of Tangen, Leif Magne is a together with Frost. of Administration at yearbyen Community the Board at Office Director of Tromsø Holmén, Kim is International Northern Norway Art Council, Longyearbyen. for Contemporary Art Kunstforening, Tromsø. Director of the Norwe- Museum, Tromsø. Olsen, Bjørn Erik is Norway, Oslo and Templer, Robert is Professor gian Polar Institute, Kleinman, Adam is a General Manager of Tromsø. of Practice at the School Longyearbyen. writer, editor, curator, Kulturnæringsstiftelsen Riesto, Kirsti is Advisor for of Public Policy and Hopkins, Candice is a and lecturer based in Sparebank 1 Nord- the Department of Art Director of The Center curator and writer based New York and currently Norge, Tromsø. and Culture in Finnmark for Conflict, Negotiation in Albuquerque, New Editor-in-Chief & Adjunct Pascua, Jet is the founder County Council, Vadsø. and Recovery, Budapest. Mexico and a curatorial Curator at Witte de With and director of Small Rognlie, Elin Bergithe is Thorne, Harry is Assistant advisor for Documenta Center for Contemporary Projects, a non-profit Norway’s Consul General Digital Editor for Frieze, 14, opening in Athens Art, Rotterdam as well artist-run gallery in New York. London. and Kassel in 2017. as Associate Curator supported by the Norwe- Rometti, Julia is an artist Urdaneta, Federico is a Film Hughes, Elinor is Producer of OCA’s programme gian Arts Council and the and part of the duo Director at Cultureshock at Cultureshock Media, “Thinking at the edge of city of Tromsø. Rometti Costales based Media, London. London. the world. Perspectives Paravel, Véréna is an in Mexico City. Vaiciulyte, Asta is Curator at Hultgreen, Tora is Director of from the North”. anthropologist and artist Røed, Kjetil is a freelance CAC – Contemporary Art Svalbard Museum, Long- Kurås, Hjørdis is the working in film, video writer and a regular Centre, Vilnius. yearbyen. Director of Sami Centre and photography who contributor to Aften- Vister, Elin Mari Øyen is an Huttunen, Jetta is Chair of for Contemporary Art, works at the Sensory posten and Billedkunst, artist based in Røst. the Board at Northern Karasjok. Ethnography Lab at Oslo. Weinmar, Ingela Ögren is Media Culture Asso- Kuzovnikova, Luba is Artistic Harvard University, Samoylov, Oleg is Producer the Head of Education ciation Magneettiry, Director at Pikene på Cambridge. at Arkhangelsk Interna- Programme at Havrema- Rovaniemi. broen, and Manager Patsey, Anastasia is Curator tional Cultural Center, gasinet, Boden. Hætta, Susanne is a of the festival Barents at Art Center Pushkin- Arkhangelsk. Örn, Anja is a Board member Sami photographer, Spektakel, Kirkenes. skaya 10, St. Petersburg. Sandberg, Ricky is Director of Galleri Syster, Luleå. visual artist, journalist, Larsen, Janike Kampevold Paul-Choudhury, Sumit is of Havremagasinet, designer and author is Associate professor at Editor of New Scientist Boden. based in Vadsø. the Institute of urbanism and editor-in-chief of Severianova, Glafira is and landscape at The Arc, London. Manager of Gallery 49, Oslo School of Architec- Pedersen, Svein Ingvoll is Murmansk. ture and Design, Oslo. the Director of Northern Norway Art Centre, Svolvær. ABOUT HISTORICAL RUSSIAN HUNTING private use, the hunters needed to sell SVALBARD BACKGROUND (1700-1850) furs, down and reindeer meat in order to purchase necessary provisions from the Drawn from Sysselmannen – Willem Barents discovered Svalbard in Russian hunting, involving people who mainland, such as flour, raisins, kerosene, The Governor of Svalbard website 1596. Its history is the history of hunters, spent the winter in Svalbard, lasted from tools, firearms and ammunition, and occa- trappers, mining communities and expedi- 1700 to 1850 and has left more than sionally a new stove or a boat, and perhaps tions. seventy stations. By and large, these a modicum of luxury. Legend has it that Svalbard has never been a place where people were Pomors from the White Sea the hunter Georg Bjørnnes bought a whole people settle down for life, where family Area. The most famous of them was Ivan year’s editions of a certain newspaper, traditions are passed down from genera- Starostin, who spent thirty-nine winters, which he took with him to Svalbard. Every tion to generation. People come and go. fifteen of which were consecutive, in Sval- morning he would go out and fetch ‘today’s Svalbard’s history is thus starkly set apart bard. paper’, exactly one year old, to the day. from that of other places. Its lore is full The Pomors were mainly interested in At the height of this activity, about fifty of tragedy; graves are the most common walrus products such as tusks, blubber and hunters spent the winter there, seriously artefact. The history of Svalbard is usually hides; they also traded in furs and down. In cutting back the population of various subdivided into epochs defined by the raw addition, they hunted reindeer, seals, fowl species. The use of spring guns for polar material exploited at time. In a sense we and collected eggs. A number of stations bear hunting raised productivity way can say that Svalbard has been a European of various sizes were set up, many of them beyond what the polar bear population supplier of various raw materials since operating all year-round. The thick and could endure. The method meant that 1596. attractive winter fur of the polar bear and the bear would poke its head into a crate the fox served as important incentives to containing bait. The moment the bear INTERNATIONAL WHALING spend the winter there. In many stations touched the bait, a shot would be triggered (1600-1700) handcrafted items have been found that and the bear would be hit in the head. One indicate the Russians spent their spare of the most notable polar bear hunters in Encouraging prices for blubber oil and time processing raw materials and turning Svalbard was Henry Rudi. In the course of baleen motivated international whaling them into valuable commodities. his years there, he killed 759 bears. His during the seventeenth and eighteenth highest annual catch was 115. centuries. The main players were Dutch, NORWEGIAN HUNTING Another well-known hunter was Hilma British and German, and the whaling (1850–1973) Nøis, who had more experience than companies were significant at a national most anybody else, having passed thir- level. At the peak of this activity, more than Norwegians intensified their activities when ty-eight winters in Svalbard between 1909 300 ships were active around Svalbard. the Russians reduced theirs, around 1850, and 1973. His base was at Fredheim in Smeerenburg on the north-west coast of since they were interested in the same Sassendal. His wife, Helfrid Nøis went with Spitzbergen is the best-known station. products. By the end of the 1800s, it had him for several years. Here there were sixteen houses for as become quite usual to spend the winter many as 200 whalers, and eight boiling in Svalbard. The hunters had a cyclic RESEARCH AND stations for blubber. Towards the end of schedule: the fox and polar bear were EXPEDITIONS (1859-) the 1600s, Dutch whaling alone accounted hunted during the winter, when the fur was for 150–250 ships that had a total annual at its best. In spring, they hunted seal, From 1859 on, research and expeditions catch of 750–1,250 whales. The bowhead while at the same time processing furs, became increasingly important. Ever since whale was the most popular catch and preparing them for sale in the summer. the discovery of Svalbard in 1596, visitors the species was eventually exterminated Bird hunting and the collection of eggs and had been informally charting landscape, from the waters around Svalbard. There down were undertaken in the summer, and waters, sailing routes and resources. As are many traces of whaling on Svalbard’s in the autumn, partridge and reindeer were of 1850, a series of organised expedi- shores, and about fifty whaling stations objects of prey. The hunters covered large tions systematically collected scientific with remains of houses, boiling stations areas and used a whole network of sheds data from this outer edge of the known and bones from whale and walrus, not to and cabins. world. ‘Products’ of this kind were of mention graves, have been recorded from Although much of their catch was for limited value in the frozen desolation, but this period. were highly valued by academic circles in MINING ACKNOWLEDGMENTS COLOPHON Europe. The results would shed new light (1900-) on global issues such as ocean currents, ‘Thinking at the Edge of the All have contributed unique Northern Norway Art geologic history, the exact shape of our Mining, from 1900 on was based on fresh World’ is a project by Office international insight and Museum planet, arctic flora and fauna, northern research and favourable prices in the newly of Contemporary Art Norway knowledge, which has Sjøgata 1 lights, climate, glaciers and moulding of industrialised Europe. The coal deposits and Northern Norway Art proved indispensible for the 9260 Tromsø the terrain. During the first International stirred much interest. Svalbard also saw, Museum. development of the entire tel: +47 77 64 70 20 Polar Year, 1882–83, Swedish researchers for brief periods, activities targeting project. www.nnkm.no / nnkm@ from the international latitude measure- sulphur, gold, zinc, lead, copper, gypsum OCA and NNKM are grateful nnkm.no ment expedition spent the winter at Kapp and marble. to the Norwegian Ministry of The project benefits from Thordsen in Isfjord. In 1899–1901, the At the onset of the twentieth century, Culture (KUD), and to Minis- the support of the Transfer Office for Contemporary earth’s exact shape was determined on the Svalbard was still a no-man’s-land, and ter Linda Hofstad Helleland, North* and to the contin- Art Norway basis of data collected by that very expe- the first years were chaotic. Many people and the Norwegian Ministry uous effort and advice of Nedre gate 7 dition. lost large sums of money investing in flam- of Foreign Affairs (UD) for Troms and Nordland County 0551 Oslo Due to Svalbard’s latitude in the high boyant and unsound industrial adventures. their continued source fund- Council. A special thank you Norway north combined with favourable ice condi- The period was marked by the purchase ing as well as for the project goes to Jasmina Bosnjak and tel: +47 23 23 31 50 tions, the archipelago was also a favourite and transport of valuable equipment, by funding they offered on this Kristoffer Dolmen. point of departure for expeditions to the the hiring of crews and stocking of provi- special occasion. The expert OCA Tromsø Office North Pole. During 1896-1928, no fewer sions. Buildings and plants had to be advice of KUD’s Christine * Transfer North is a knowl- c/o The Cultural Business than nine expeditions set off from Svalbard constructed. Hamnen and Mette Kvandal edge-transfer network for Development Foundation in the race to be the first to reach the polar Mining is the only commercial activity and UD’s Cecilie Willoch and independent/institutional SpareBank 1 Nord-Norge set point. One of the best known, Salomon that has survived for more than a hundred Therese Aalberg have ena- curators and art critics in Storgata 69 Andrée, took off from Virgohamn on 11 years. It formed the basis for permanent bled the project to reach its the contemporary art field 9008 Tromsø July, 1897, in his balloon Örnen (Eagle). settlements in Longyearbyen, Sveagruva, full scope. We also gratefully in the European North, sup- The balloon stayed aloft for only a few Pyramiden, Barentsburg and Ny-Ålesund. acknowledge the funding ported by Nordic Culture www.oca.no / [email protected] days. Not until 1930 were the remains of contribution of SpareBank Point (Nordic-Baltic mobility Andrée’s expedition found on Kvitøya, quite 1 Nord-Norge Cultural Busi- Programme – Long-term net- coincidentally, by a whaling ship. Roald ness Development Founda- work support), Nordic Cul- Amundsen and the Italian Umberto Nobile tion. ture Fund, Norwegian-Ice- flew together from Svalbard towards the landic Culture Cooperation, North Pole in 1926, crossing the North We are extremely indebted Nordland County Council, Pole in the airship Norge. They had left to the Norwegian Embas- Troms County Council and from Ny-Ålesund, and the mast to which sies around the world for project partners. the airship had been moored still stands their continued support and there. advice: Narve Solheim and https://transfernorth.word- Kulturnæringsstiftelsen The aims of the expeditions were often Ida Svingen Mo (Berlin), Siri press.com/ THINKING AT complex. Though the nominal goal tended Aronsen (London), Therese THE EDGE OF THE WORLD to be scientific, expedition leaders, partic- M. Wagle Bazard and Laura 12–13 June 2016 ipants and sponsors were often motivated Marie Harbsmeier (Paris), Svalbard Archipelago by considerations such as national or Jan-Terje Studsvik Storaas personal prestige. The Arctic seemed to (Ottawa), Sindre Bornstein For questions related to beckon to people of heroic mettle, goading (General Consulate San logistics, transfers and them into feats of remarkable stamina, Francisco), and Elin Bergithe events on site during 10–14 actions that became national symbols Rognlie, Ingrid Moe and June 2016 please contact and that brought personal glory to the Eiler Fleischer (Royal Nor- Anne Charlotte Hauen on performer when he returned, whether dead wegian Consulate General, +47 98 64 54 09 or alive. New York). We are also very grateful to the Embassy of Spain to Sweden, for their support and to their Cultural Attaché and Consul José Pedro Torrubia Asenjo.

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NOTES NOTES the Right whale), even Scoresby, a long experienced man as a ship’s deck, such is then the outlandish, eel- like, limbered, touching that species, declares not to have its counterpart in varying shape of him, that his precise expression the devil nature. himself could not catch. But the placing of the cap-sheaf to all this blundering But it may be fancied, that from the naked skeleton of the business was reserved for the scientific Frederick Cuvier, stranded whale, accurate hints may be derived touching his brother to the famous Baron. In 1836, he published a Natu- true form. Not at all. For it is one of the more curious things ral History of Whales, in which he gives what he calls a pic- about this Leviathan, that his skeleton gives very little idea of ture of the Sperm Whale. Before showing that picture to any his general shape. Though Jeremy Bentham’s skeleton, which Nantucketer, you had best provide for your summary retreat hangs for candelabra in the library of one of his executors, from Nantucket. In a word, Frederick Cuvier’ s Sperm Whale correctly conveys the idea of a burly-browed utilitarian old is not a Sperm Whale, but a squash. Of course, he never had gentleman, with all Jeremy’s other leading personal charac- the benefit of a whaling voyage (such men seldom have), but teristics; yet nothing of this kind could be inferred from any whence he derived that picture, who can tell? Perhaps he got leviathan’s articulated bones. In fact, as the great Hunter it as his scientific predecessor in the same field, Desmarest, says, the mere skeleton of the whale bears the same relation got one of his authentic abortions; that is, from a Chinese to the fully invested and padded animal as the insect does to drawing. And what sort of lively lads with the pencil those the chrysalis that so roundingly envelopes it. This peculiarity Chinese are, many queer cups and saucers inform us. is strikingly evinced in the head, as in some part of this book As for the sign-painters’ whales seen in the streets hang- will be incidentally shown. It is also very curiously displayed ing over the shops of oil-dealers, what shall be said of them? in the side fin, the bones of which almost exactly answer to They are generally Richard III. whales, with dromedary the bones of the human hand, minus only the thumb. This humps, and very savage; breakfasting on three or four sailor fin has four regular bone-fingers, the index, middle, ring, and tarts, that is whaleboats full of mariners: their deformities little finger. But all these are permanently lodged in their floundering in seas of blood and blue paint. fleshy covering, as the human fingers in an artificial covering. But these manifold mistakes in depicting the whale are ‘However recklessly the whale may sometimes serve us,’ said not so very surprising after all. Consider! Most of the scien- humorous Stubb one day, ‘he can never be truly said to han- tific drawings have been taken from the stranded fish; and dle us without mittens.’ these are about as correct as a drawing of a wrecked ship, For all these reasons, then, any way you may look at it, with broken back, would correctly represent the noble animal you must needs conclude that the great Leviathan is that itself in all its undashed pride of hull and spars. Though one creature in the world which must remain unpainted to elephants have stood for their full-lengths, the living Levia- the last. True, one portrait may hit the mark much nearer than has never yet fairly floated himself for his portrait. The than another, but none can hit it with any very considerable living whale, in his full majesty and significance, is only to degree of exactness. So there is no earthly way of finding out be seen at sea in unfathomable waters; and afloat the vast precisely what the whale really looks like. And the only mode bulk of him is out of sight, like a launched line-of-battle ship; in which you can derive even a tolerable idea of his living and out of that element it is a thing eternally impossible for contour, is by going a whaling yourself; but by so doing, you mortal man to hoist him bodily into the air, so as to preserve run no small risk of being eternally stove and sunk by him. all his mighty swells and undulations. And, not to speak of Wherefore, it seems to me you had best not be too fastidious the highly presumable difference of contour between a young in your curiosity touching this Leviathan. sucking whale and a full-grown Platonian Leviathan; yet, even in the case of one of those young sucking whales hoisted to the form of leviathan, learnedly known as the Matse Avatar. But quitting all these unprofessional attempts, let us But though this sculpture is half man and half whale, so as glance at those pictures of leviathan purporting to be sober, only to give the tail of the latter, yet that small section of him scientific delineations, by those who know. In old Harris’s col- is all wrong. It looks more like the tapering tail of an anacon- lection of voyages there are some plates of whales extracted da, than the broad palms of the true whale’s majestic flukes. from a Dutch book of voyages, A.D. 1671, entitled ‘A Whaling But go to the old Galleries, and look now at a great Chris- Voyage to Spitzbergen in the ship Jonas in the Whale, Peter tian painter’s portrait of this fish; for he succeeds no better Peterson of Friesland, master.’ In one of those plates the than the antediluvian Hindoo. It is Guido’s picture of Perseus whales, like great rafts of logs, are represented lying among rescuing Andromeda from the sea-monster or whale. Where ice-isles, with white bears running over their living backs. In did Guido get the model of such a strange creature as that? another plate, the prodigious blunder is made of representing Nor does Hogarth, in painting the same scene in his own the whale with perpendicular flukes. ‘Perseus Descending,’ make out one whit better. The huge Then again, there is an imposing quarto, written by one corpulence of that Hogarthian monster undulates on the sur- Captain Colnett, a Post Captain in the English navy, entitled face, scarcely drawing one inch of water. It has a sort of ‘A Voyage round Cape Horn into the South Seas, for the pur- howdah on its back, and its distended tusked mouth into pose of extending the Spermaceti Whale Fisheries.’ In this which the billows are rolling, might be taken for the Traitors’ book is an outline purporting to be a ‘Picture of a Physeter Gate leading from the Thames by water into the Tower. Then, or Spermaceti whale, drawn by scale from one killed on the there are the Prodromus whales of old Scotch Sibbald, and coast of Mexico, August, 1793, and hoisted on deck.’ I doubt Jonah’s whale, as depicted in the prints of old Bibles and not the captain had this veracious picture taken for the ben- the cuts of old primers. What shall be said of these? As for efit of his marines. To mention but one thing about it, let me the book-binder’s whale winding like a vine-stalk round the say that it has an eye which applied, according to the accom- stock of a descending anchor—as stamped and gilded on the panying scale, to a full grown sperm whale, would make the backs and title-pages of many books both old and new—that eye of that whale a bow-window some five feet long. Ah, my is a very picturesque but purely fabulous creature, imitat- gallant captain, why did ye not give us Jonah looking out of ed, I take it, from the like figures on antique vases. Though that eye! universally denominated a dolphin, I nevertheless call this Nor are the most conscientious compilations of Natural book-binder’s fish an attempt at a whale; because it was so History for the benefit of the young and tender, free from intended when the device was first introduced. It was intro- the same heinousness of mistake. Look at that popular work duced by an old Italian publisher somewhere about the 15th ‘Goldsmith’s Animated Nature.’ In the abridged London edi- century, during the Revival of Learning; and in those days, tion of 1807, there are plates of an alleged ‘whale’ and a and even down to a comparatively late period, dolphins were ‘narwhale.’ I do not wish to seem inelegant, but this unsightly popularly supposed to be a species of the Leviathan. whale looks much like an amputated sow; and, as for the In the vignettes and other embellishments of some an- narwhale, one glimpse at it is enough to amaze one, that in cient books you will at times meet with very curious touches this nineteenth century such a hippogriff could be palmed for at the whale, where all manner of spouts, jets d’eau, hot genuine upon any intelligent public of schoolboys. springs and cold, Saratoga and Baden-Baden, come bubbling Then, again, in 1825, Bernard Germain, Count de Lace- up from his unexhausted brain. In the title-page of the orig- pede, a great naturalist, published a scientific systemized inal edition of the ‘Advancement of Learning’ you will find whale book, wherein are several pictures of the different spe- some curious whales. cies of the Leviathan. All these are not only incorrect, but the picture of the Mysticetus or Greenland whale (that is to say, Niillas Holmberg, January 2016 MOBY-DICK; OR, THE WHALEY [“Of the Monstrous Pictures of Whales.”Chapter 55] AREN’T YOU THE MOUNTAIN, AREN’T YOU THE SKY by Herman Melville Six Tibetans and a Sámi Published by Harper & Brothers, London: 1851 crawling out of a tent with Dhasa below us the sun blessing the land three of them fetch water I shall ere long paint to you as well as one can without can- two start on the dishes vas, something like the true form of the whale as he actually I feel ashamed of my idleness appears to the eye of the whaleman when in his own absolute listening to the Indians’ banter body the whale is moored alongside the whale-ship so that he can be fairly stepped upon there. It may be worth while, and reading old songs therefore, previously to advert to those curious imaginary por- sung by an ancient yogi traits of him which even down to the present day confidently you know challenge the faith of the landsman. It is time to set the world all he needed was one life right in this matter, by proving such pictures of the whale all to get it right wrong. It may be that the primal source of all those pictorial delu- why, there’s someone humming sions will be found among the oldest Hindoo, Egyptian, and behind the mountain Grecian sculptures. For ever since those inventive but un- I am reminded scrupulous times when on the marble panellings of temples, that shame is only a feeling the pedestals of statues, and on shields, medallions, cups, and coins, the dolphin was drawn in scales of chain-armor one of us is missing like Saladin’s, and a helmeted head like St. George’s; ever we hear him reciting to himself since then has something of the same sort of license pre- a mantra vailed, not only in most popular pictures of the whale, but in many scientific presentations of him. and so it happened, Now, by all odds, the most ancient extant portrait anyways the thunder rumbled purporting to be the whale’s, is to be found in the famous and the mountain stood up cavern-pagoda of Elephanta, in India. The Brahmins main- after crawling from its tent tain that in the almost endless sculptures of that immemorial pagoda, all the trades and pursuits, every conceivable avoca- he drops his iPhone tion of man, were prefigured ages before any of them actually came into being. No wonder then, that in some sort our no- Jetsun Milarepa ble profession of whaling should have been there shadowed aren’t you the mountain forth. The Hindoo whale referred to, occurs in a separate aren’t you the sky department of the wall, depicting the incarnation of Vishnu in THE WAY BACK If you don’t see me tomorrow I might be feeling tired on a king-sized bed of snow half empty bottle as a pillow by Niillas Holmberg Published by Francis Buotle, London: 2016 The best way home is through the remotest corners of the forest. I found myself in the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts in Dharamsala, studying Tibetan music and meditation. Intriguing similarities between the teachings of he Buddha and the old natural philosophy of indigenous peoples encour- INTRODUCTION aged me to go back home with a new sense of determination flavoured with humour and self-irony. Half the poems in this collection were written on the move. The other half, written indoors, describe various states of if you don’t see me tomorrow movement. The ambiguity of these states forms the basis of I might have met the Buddha the poems in this volume. offered him some cloudberries Looking through the eyes of an indigenous poet, there are from a half full bucket two escape routes from the sickness of the modern industri- alised world. In the end we are all looking for a place of stillness. Each of The first is to go back into the past, to seek advice from us wanders to find the most suitable resting place. our ancestors and embrace their values and worldview, and most importantly, incorporate them as a living part of the if I were young present day. In spite of centuries of colonisation in Sámiland, I would learn to sleep on the move many of us still speak the language of nature. so that as an old man I could die on my back I had to force myself to speak lest the light blind me But really, tranquility can best be achieved through motion. lest the birds fall If water never settles, how can we? let’s speak of shades let’s talk of bones I judged attachment as a spring lake’s ice As traditional livelihoods become a part of the tourist indus- try, the lines between past and present, between tradition and modernity, become blurred. While the nomads in the old days lived their lives following the reindeer, the modern world traveller loses himself in his own sophistication. For a young man discovering the phenomenon of the poètes maudits, at times apathy seems like the only way out. of fire. Now it fades again, and gathers in a brightly luminous and round our floe, where we made the best of the situation belt of mist stretching towards the south-west, with only a by having dinner. Sometimes it was near Johansen’s kayak, few patches of luminous haze visible here and there. After a sometimes near mine. We could see how it darted about in while, scattered rays suddenly shoot up from the fiery mist the water under the kayaks, and it had evidently the greatest almost reaching to the zenith; then more; they play over the desire to attack us again. We thought of giving it a ball to get belt in a wild chase from east to west. They seem to be al- rid of it, but had no great wish to part with a cartridge, and ways darting nearer from a long, long way off. But suddenly besides it only showed us its nose and forehead, which are a perfect veil of rays showers from the zenith out over the not exactly the most vital spots to aim at when one’s object northern sky; they are so fine and bright, like the finest of is to kill with one shot. It was a great ox-walrus. There is glittering silver threads. Is it the fire-giant Surt himself, strik- something remarkably fantastic and pre-historic about these ing his mighty silver harp, so that the strings tremble and monsters. I could not help thinking of a merman, or some- sparkle in the glow of the flames of Muspelheim? Yes, it is thing of the kind, as it lay there just under the surface of the harp music, wildly storming in the darkness; it is the riotous water blowing and snorting for quite a long while at a time, war-dance of Surt’s sons. And again, at times, it is like softly and glaring at us with its round glassy eyes. After having playing, gently-rocking, silvery waves, on which dreams travel continued in this way for some time, it disappeared just as into unknown worlds . . . tracklessly as it had come; and as we had finished our dinner, we were able to go on our way again, glad, a second time, not RETREATING, WITH KAYAKS to have been upset, or destroyed by its tusks… As we were paddling along through some small bits of ice my kayak suddenly received a violent shock from underneath. I looked round in amazement as I had not noticed any large piece of ice hereabouts. There was nothing of the kind to be seen either, but worse were about. No sooner had I glanced down than I saw a huge walrus cleaving through the water astern, and it suddenly came up, raised itself and stood on end just before Johansen, who was following in my wake. Afraid lest the animal should have its tusks through the deck of his craft the next minute, he backed as hard as he could and felt for his gun, which he had down in the kayak. I was not long either in pulling my gun out of its cover. The animal crashed snorting into the water again, however, dived under Johansen’s kayak, and came up just behind him. Johansen, thinking he had had enough of such a neighbour, scrambled incontinently on to the floe nearest him. After having waited a while, with my gun ready for the walrus to come up close by me, I followed his example. I very nearly came in for the cold bath which the walrus had omitted to give me, for the edge of the ice gave just as I set my foot on it, and the kayak drifted off with me standing upright in it, and trying to balance as best I could, in order not to capsize. If the walrus had reap- peared at that moment, I should certainly have received it in its own element. Finally, I succeeded in getting up on the ice, and for a long time afterwards the walrus swam round at Inuit character and society, was also CHRISTMAS DREAMS a eulogy in many ways: ‘. . Morality will Thursday, December 19th: —28.5° (19.3° below zero Fahr.). then have so far developed that men will It has turned cold again, and is bitter weather to be out in. no longer consider themselves justified in swooping down upon the first primitive But what does it signify? We are comfortable and warm in people that come their ways in order to here, and do not need to go out more than we like. All the satisfy their own religious vanity and to do out-of-door work we have is to bring in fresh and salt water “good works” which shall minister to their ice two or three times a week, meat and blubber now and self-complacency, but which may or ques- again, and very occasionally a skin to dry under the roof. And tion.’ To the accounts by Nansen I’ve ap- Christmas, the season of rejoicing, is drawing near. At home pended one by British-born Frederick G. every one is busy now, scarcely knowing how to get time Jackson for everything; but here there is no bustle; all we want is to (1860-1938), leader of the three-year make the time pass. Ah, to sleep, sleep! The pot is simmer- Jackson—Harmsworth Arctic expedition ing pleasantly over the hearth; I am sitting waiting for break- to Franz Josef Land. It was this expedi- fast, and gazing into the flickering flames, while my thoughts tion that Nansen stumbled across on 17 June 1896, after a year and a half on travel far away. What is the strange power in fire and light the ice — Jackson had been based only that all created beings seek them, from the primary lump of ninety-three miles from where Nansen had protoplasm in the sea, to survived the long winter in his home-made The roving child man, who stops in his wanderings, makes blubber-heated stone shelter. It’s that rare up a fire in the wood, and sits down to dismiss all care, and thing, an unpolished account — ‘word for word from my journal’ — which honest- revel in the crackling warmth. Involuntarily do these snake- ly and charmingly depicts the everyday like, fiery tongues arrest the eye; you gaze down into them Nansen, everyday Arctic summer and the as if you could read your fate there, and memories glide past everyday lot of an explorer — what to in motley train. What, then, is privation? What the present? name those newly discovered lands, where Forget it, forget yourself; you have the power to recall all that to take those crucial publicity photos. is beautiful, and then wait for the summer… By the light of Unknown to both, one dark cloud flickers briefly over this strange chapter. the lamp she sits sewing in the winter evening. Beside her Jackson notes that he ‘strongly advised’ stands a little maiden with blue eyes and golden hair; but her Nansen that, should he attempt the South eyes fill, and the big tears fall upon her work. Pole, he should use horses. Here was a Brit Johansen is lying beside me asleep; he smiles in his sleep. steadfastly advocating an untested method Poor fellow! He must be dreaming he is at home at Christmas to someone who had just completed one of the greatest feats in the history of polar time with those he loves. But sleep on – sleep and dream, exploration. It was almost a rehearsal for while the winter passes; for then comes spring – the spring the Scott—Nansen conversation of four- of life. teen years later. Horses were the means of Sunday, December 22nd: The northern lights were won- transport that Robert Scott chose to rely derful. However often we see this weird play of light, we never on, despite Nansen encouraging him to tire of gazing at it; it seems to cast a spell over both sight and use dogs. A favourite of modern polar ex- plorers, in his day Nansen towered over all sense till it is impossible to tear oneself away. It begins to other pioneers of the ‘Heroic Age’, though dawn with a pale, yellow, spectral light behind the mountain he himself never went ‘south’. In many in the east, like the reflection of a fire far away. It broadens, ways he is simply the polar man. and soon the whole of the eastern sky is one glowing mass FARTHEST NORTH (UNABRIDGED) – BEING THE RECORD OF THE VOYAGE OF EXPLORATION OF THE SHIP FRAM, 1893-96, AND OF MONTHS’ SLEIGH JOURNEY

by Fridtjof Nansen Firstly published by George Newnes, London: 1898

In 1888 the Norwegian explorers Fridt- In May 1896, they set off again and jof Nansen and Otto Sverdrup crossed soon ran into a British expedition led by Greenland from east to west, but Nansen Frederick Jackson, who got them out safe- is particularly remembered for his 1893-6 ly. A week after they arrived home, having expedition, an attempt to demonstrate that been away for three years, the Fram was currents moved westward across the Arctic released from the ice at Svalbard, having — one that resulted in a dramatic bid for drifted near the Pole, as Nansen had pre- the North Pole and an even more dramatic dicted. trek to safety afterwards. Nansen’s emphasis on adapting tech- Nansen had learnt how, after the niques developed by the Inuit, whether with Jeannette, a vessel under the command regard to food provision, clothing or travel, of an American, De Long, had sunk in was an important example for later explor- 1881 near Wrangel Island, not far from ers; his detailed scientific observations the Bering Strait, its remains had drift- of temperature, flow and salinity filled six ed towards the North Pole for two years, bulky volumes and gave us a first insight eventually appearing on the other side, off into the pattern of Arctic currents. Greenland, 2,900 nautical miles away. `It Later in life, Nansen became a distin- immediately occurred to me that here lay guished diplomat and, in 1922, was award- the route ready to hand.’ He deliberately ed the Nobel Peace Prize for his relief took his ship, the Franz, into the pack ice, work after the Russian Revolution. He also hoping it might take him within reach of became something of a mentor to all polar the pole as it passed by; in March 1895 explorers of the era: Amundsen borrowed Nansen abandoned the Fram and made his Fram for his successful attempt on the a dash for the Pole with one companion, South Pole; Shackleton and Scott also con- Hjalmar Johansen, and twenty-eight dogs. sulted him, the latter disregarding his ad- After twenty-three days, they were only vice to place his faith in dogs, an arrogance 240 miles from the Pole —a farthest north that cost him not only the race to the Pole, record - but the ice proved too difficult to but the lives of five men, including himself. negotiate and they were forced to retreat. Nansen was unusual among the racing After a further four months, they reached polar explorers: big-hearted in his deal- Franz Josef Land and dug themselves in ings with rivals, he always had an eye for for the winter. They survived by using Inuit the much wider picture. He came to think skills, building a stone but with tools made that Western contact, and the church in out of walrus tusks, using walrus blubber particular, had a negative impact on the for lighting, and hunting bears for food and Inuit, and formally left the Norwegian clothing. State Church. Eskimo Life, a detailed look THINKING AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

Narrative Excerpts