© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 553 Index

women in 68 money 129 ABBREVIATIONS women travellers 493 shopping 139-40 ACTKaz AustralianKazakhstan Capital Afrosiab (U) 245 travel agencies 130-1 Territory Kyr agriculture 56-7 travel to/from 140-1 NSW New South Wales Taj AIDS 533 travel within 141-2 NT Northern Territory Tur air travel 515-21, 524-5 walking tour 133-4, 133 Qld Queensland U airlines 516-17 Al-Qaeda 473 SA South Australia Afg airports 516 Altay Mountains (Kaz) 188-9 Tas Tasmania environmental issues 517 altitude sickness 535 Vic Victoria fares 519, 525 Altyn Arashan (Kyr) 326-7 WA Western Australia A safety 518 Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 148-9 Abay Museum (Kaz) 189-90 tickets 517-18 amin, the 90 Abay State Opera & Ballet Theatre to/from 515-21 amoebic dysentery 534 (Kaz) 138 within Central Asia 524-5 amusement parks 153, 164, 221, 435 Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (U) 259 Aitmatov, Chinghiz 82, 294, 296, 319 ancient Khorezm (U) 270 Abrashim Qala (Taj) 410 Ak-Baital (Taj) 416 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394 Abylay Khan Residence Museum Ak-Balyk (Taj) 412 Andijon (U) 239-40 (Kaz) 182 Ak-Jilga (Taj) 412 animal market (Kyr) 322 Abylkayyr Khan 46 Ak-Sai (Kyr) 335 animals 96-8, see also individual

accommodation 496-8, see also Ak-Say Canyon 313, 11 species INDEX individual locations Ak-Saray Palace (U) 251-2 antelopes 124 34-5 Ak-Suu (Kyr) 363 anthrax 534 Achik Tash (Kyr) 362 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) Aral Sea 100-1, 163, 277, 280 activities 104-15, see also individual 98, 155-6 Aral Sea memorial (U) 281 locations & activities Aktau (Kaz) 167-70, 168 Aral, see Aralsk itineraries 33, 33 Ak-Terek (Kyr) 356 Aralsk (Kaz) 161-2 adventure travel agencies 113-15 Aktobe 163-5 Arasan Baths (Kaz) 133 Afghan Pamir 488-9 Aktyubinsk, see Aktobe archaeological sites Afghanistan 468-95, 470 akyns 82, 296 Afrosiab (U) 245 accommodation 490 Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 311-12 Ajina Teppe (Taj) 384 activities 490 Alamedin Canyon (Kyr) 312 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394 arts 474-5 Alay Valley (Kyr) 361-3 (Kyr) 314 border crossings 493-5 Al-Bukhari 250 Berel (Kaz) 189 climate 469 alcohol 88-9, 501 Besshatyr burial mounds (Kaz) costs 469, 492, 494 Alexander the Great 35, 206, 241, 256, 148 embassies 490-1 353, 355, 373, 384, 390, 393, 425, Bunjikath (Taj) 384 festivals 491 452, 487 (Kyr) 314 food 476 Alichur (Taj) 412 Dekhistan (Tur) 445 history 469-73 Alim Khan 268 Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454 information 477, 492 Al-Khorezmi 42 Elliq-Qala (U) 270 itineraries 29, 469, 29 Allakuli Khan Medressa (U) 273 Erk Kala (Tur) 452 safe travel 469 Almaty (Kaz) 126-42, 128-9, 143 Giaur Kala (Tur) 452 shopping 492 accommodation 134-6 (Tur) 453 travel to/from 493-5 activities 133 Hulbuk (Taj) 384 travel within 495 attractions 131-3 Kara-Tepe (U) 255 visas 491, 493 drinking 137-8 Khan Dëbë (Kyr) 333 entertainment 138-9 Kobadiyan (Taj) 384 000 Map pages food 136-7 Koshkar Ata (Kaz) 170-1 000 Photograph pages history 126-7 Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 345 information 127, 129, 130 Kyz Kala (Tur) 453 INDEX Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum (Kaz) 151 (Kaz) Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum Atyrau (Kaz) 165-7, Atyrau (Kaz) ATMs 505 At-Bashy (Kyr)345 172-9, Astana (Kaz) Babur 47,240,358 151 (Kaz) Mausoleum Babazhi Katun B 430-42, Ashgabat (Tur) 76-84, arts Arslanbob (Kyr)352-4 Ark, the(U)261-2 76-9 architecture archaeology archaeological sites 554 000 000 travel within179 travel to/from178-9 tours 176 information 172-3 food 177 178 entertainment 178 drinking accommodation 177 travel within441 travel to/from440-1 travel agencies433 shopping 439-40 money 431 information 431,433 food 438 439 entertainment 439 drinking 433-6 attractions 436 activities accommodation 436-8 Manas landays books 76,80 akyns internet resources 34,77,84 books 20,76 Terekty 148 petroglyphs(Kaz) Tamgaly 148 petroglyphs(Kaz) Takht-i 384 Sangin(Taj) 452-3 (Tur) Sultan Kala 171 Sultan Epe(Kaz) 171 Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 384 (Taj) complex451-3 (U)259 Maghoki-Attar

Map pages Map Photograph pages INDEX (A-B) INDEX 82,296 epic82,296 see alsoindividualcountries 475 continued 166 174-5 432 bazaars 159 Baykonur Cosmodrome(Kaz) Battle ofTalas 41 (Kyr)363-4 Batken bathhouses 133 408 Basid (Taj) 412 Bash Gumbaz(Taj) (Kyr)330 Barskoön Waterfall Barskoön (Kyr)330-1 bargaining 506 408 Bardara (Taj) 408 (Taj) Barchadiev Amir(Afg) 483 Band-e Bamiyan (Afg) 481-3 Balykchy (Kyr)335 475,487 LadyRabi’a Balkhi, (Afg) 487 Balkh 444-5 (Tur) Balkanabat Kurmanbek61,294,295 Bakiev, NaqshbandMausoleum Bakhautdin Badai-Tugai (U)270 Nature Reserve Gold79 Bactrian (Afg) 479 Babur’s Gardens birdwatching 98,113 Birds ofPrey Festival (Kyr)332 479 bird market bin Laden,Osama60,61,473 Mosque(U)244 Bibi-Khanym Bibi Fatima 410 (Taj) Springs 189 Berel (Kaz) Gurbanguly428, Berdymukhamedov, (Taj) NationalMuseum Bekhzod 170 (Kaz) Beket-Ata beaches 168,317,325,446 412 Bazar-Dara (Taj) Urgut 250-1, 435 (Tur) Tolkuchka (U)226-7 385 (Green) (Taj) Mansur Shah Panchshanbe 390 (Taj) Jayma (Kyr)358 (U)240 Jahon Fergana (U)236 Chorsu (U)218 Carpet Bazaar(Afg) 479 (U)259 (Kyr)303-4 139-40 Almaty (Kaz) (U) 268 Uzbekistan 257,259,281 Uzbekistan 125,130,144,179, 429, 442 384 449-50 Zelyony (Tur) 193 8 books 20-2, 53-4 Bolsheviks (Kyr)332-3 Bokonbayevo body language67 408 Bodomdara (Taj) boat travel523 285 black market Black Death46 (Kyr)298-311, Bishkek Buddha Niches (Afg) 482 brucellosis 533 empire 50 British 293 kidnapping bride 193 bribes borders 392,527 border crossings521 416 Bor Döbö(Taj) travel within311 travel to/from309-11 travel agencies302 tours 304 tour agencies304 shopping 309 money 301 information 299,301,302, history 298-9 food 307 festivals 305 308-9 entertainment 308 drinking 302-4 attractions 304 activities accommodation 305-7 Uzbekistan 287-8 Uzbekistan Turkmenistan 466-7 Pass (Kyr) Torugart tips 370 Tajikistan 421-2 problems 527 Kyrgyzstan 370-1 200-1 Kazakhstan PassIrkeshtam (Kyr) Afghanistan 493-5 travel 20-2 Silk Road21 health 532 food 85,86 environment 99 76,80 art 76 architecture archaeology 20,76 individual countries 304 346-8 362 see also literature 300, 312 & INDEX 555

see 12 community- 383 see also see also individual INDEX (B-E) 102 Kazakhstan 124-5 Kyrgyzstan 297-8 based tourism itineraries 32 also individual countries 476 Afghanistan air travel 517 Aral Sea 56, 100-1 books 99 99, 100, internet resources countries accommodation 385-6 activities 385 attractions 382-5 entertainment 387-8 food 386-7 history 381 information 382 money 382 shopping 388 travel agencies 382 travel to/from 388-9 travel within 389 Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454 Eki-Naryn (Kyr) 343 electricity 500 Elliq-Qala (U) 270 (U) 268 Emir’s Summer Palace (Taj) 408 Engels Peak environmental issues 99-103, E eagle hunting 113, 331, 332, Earthquake Memorial (U) 220 Earthquake Museum (Tur) 434 ecotourism 23-4, Dasht (Taj) 408 Dayahattin (Tur) Caravanserai 456 (DVT)deep vein thrombosis 532 Dekhistan (Tur) 445 departure tax 518 diarrhoea 534 (Tur)Dinosaur Plateau 457 456, 274 Dishon-Qala (U) 502 documentation (U) 252 Dorut Tilyovat Dostoevsky, Fyodor 189, 190 Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 190 dragon horses 40 drinking 88-9, drinking 535 water (Kyr) 303 Dubovy (Oak) Park Dungan people 67 Dushanbe (Taj) 381-9, see 317 88 also individual countries Afghanistan 471, 472 Afghanistan Kazakhstan 120 Kyrgyzstan 293 376 Tajikistan 427 Turkmenistan Uzbekistan 207 107 itineraries 32 Kazakhstan 156, 181 Kyrgyzstan 297 395, 414 Tajikistan Uzbekistan 257 534-5 122, 156, 206, 212, 243, 246, 254, 122, 156, 206, 212, 451, 457, 470, 258, 261, 293, 425, 482, 486, 487 D Dari language 542-3 Darvaza (Tur) 442 Darvaza Gas Craters (Tur) 442 Dashogus (Tur) 459-60 cycling 110 Chong Ak-Suu Valley (Kyr) 318 Valley Chong Ak-Suu (Kyr) 314 Chong-Kemin Valley 294 (Kyr) Chong-Tash Chorsu Bazaar (U) 218 cinema 79-80 485 Citadel (Afg) climate 19, 499 collectivisation 54 communism 54 community-based tourism 106, Conolly, Arthur 264 corruption 501-3 cosmodromes 159 costs 19-20 cotton production 56-7, 209 crafts 508 cards 505 credit crime 501 Crimean Congo haemorrhagic fever cross-country skiing 112 69-70 culture 499-500, customs regulations Chicken Street (Afg) 479 Chicken (Afg) Street travel with 498-9 children, Chimbulak (Kaz) 143-4 (Kyr) 322 Chinese Mosque Chinggis (Genghis) Khan 42-5, 119, Chokur-Kul (Taj) 410 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 316-18, Chatyr Tash (Taj) 412 Chatyr Tash chay 336 260-1 12 309, 339, 508 64, 455 (Turkmenistan) 461 Uzbekistan 226, 249, 266, 276 Turkmenistan 434, 435, 439-40, Turkmenistan Kyrgyzstan 309 shyrdaks 270, 281, 414 479, 492 Afghanistan customs regulations Afghanistan 481-3 Afghanistan 410 Tajikistan Uzbekistan 254-5 180 471 accommodation 264-5 accommodation activities 263 attractions 259-63 drinking 266 entertainment 266 264 festivals food 265-6 history 257-8 information 258 money 258 shopping 266-7 tours 263-4 travel agencies 258-9 travel to/from 267 travel within 267-8 cave paintings 415 Central Kyrgyzstan 335-48, Shan (Kaz) 148 Central Tian Shan (Kyr) 333-5 Central Tian ceramics 226, 239, 249 chaikhanas 89 Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 147 Chashma Spring (U) 256 C cable cars 132, 385, 435-6 camel trekking 109, 114, 115, 256, car travel 526-7 caravanserais 346, 456 479 Carpet Bazaar (Afg) Carpet Museum (Tur) 434 carpets 81, 508 Bukhara (U) 257-68, Buddhist sites Buddhist Burana Tower (Kyr) 314 Burnes, Alexander ‘Bukhara’ 50, bus travel 525-6 business hours 498 buzkashi Bulunkul (Taj) 411 (Kaz) Park Burabay National Nature INDEX events, events, European Cemetery(Afg) 479 etiquette 67,69,70 185-6 (Kaz) Ethnography Museum 452 (Tur) Erk Kala fortresses 171 (Kaz) Shevchenko Fort food 85-7 80-1 folk art floor-ladies 498 ofUzbekistan Museum Fine Arts film 79-80 festivals 502-4, Festival ofNationalCuisine &Folklore Fergana Valley (U)232-40, Fergana (U)236-8, Fedchenko 416 Glacier(Taj) Fayzulla House(U)263 Khojaev Fayoz-Tepe (U)254 Fan 396-8, Mountains(Taj) Faizabad (Afg) 487-8 F environmental issues 556 000 000 buzkashi Birds ofPrey Festival (Kyr)332 locations 91 tea-drinking Vozrozhdenie Ostrov211 211 Uzbekistan Turkmenistan 430 pollution 102 poaching 102-3 overgrazing 102 Gyaur-Qala (U)270 452 (Tur) Giaur Kala ofAlexandertheGreat fortress Elliq-Qala (U)270 travellers90 vegetarian shashlyk 85, plov laghman festivals 87,90 customs 90-1 219 Navrus 503-5 food 87,90 Festival ofNationalCuisine& (Kyr) 329

Map pages Map Photograph pages (U) 256 Folklore (Kyr)329 86,223 see INDEX (E-H) INDEX festivals 64, 86 8 see alsoindividual 12 237 continued 233 396 , 11 Genghis Khan, Khan, Genghis Valley 407 Geisev (Taj) (Afg) 485 Gah Gazar gay travellers138,462,502 gas craters442 Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich 303 Frunze, Mikhail (Kyr)303 Frunze House-Museum Mosque,Herat(Afg) 485 Friday four-wheel drive trips 112 trips four-wheel drive Foster, Norman173,176 Gypjak (Tur) 441 Gypjak (Tur) (U)244-5 Mausoleum Gur-e-Amir Gunt Valley 412 (Taj) ValleyGumbezkul 414 (Taj) (Kyr)318-19 Grigorievka Great Horde,the43,47,49,120 the50-1, 264,471 Great Game, 445 Gozli Ata(Tur) 453 Gonur Depe(Tur) 453-4 Gonur (Tur) golf 113 132 (Kaz) Golden Man giardiasis 534 Ghazni (Afg) 490 Ghaznavid empire 42 people 67 German geology 96 441-2 (Tur) Geok-Depe geography 95-6 gardens, 409 Chashma(Taj) Garam G Hazrat-Hizr Mosque(U) 246 Hazrat-Hizr Hazara people 68 67-70 handshaking 226,238,249, 309, handicrafts Haji Yakoub mosqueandmedressa H Kyrgyzstan 327,334,335, Turkmenistan 114,442,454 Tajikistan 403,414,415 155,170 Kazakhstan Afghanistan 484,488 TeppeMug 393 (Taj) Kyr Kyz(U)255 Kuhna Ark(U)273 409 (Taj) fortress Khaakha 411 (Taj) Kafir-Qala 389 (Taj) Hissar Khan 406, 508 384 (Taj) 364 see parks&gardens see Chinggis (Genghis) Chinggis(Genghis) hiking 108, hiking Herat (Afg) 483-6 hepatitis B533 hepatitis A533 112 heli-skiing health 530-6 horse treks 330,339,342, 412 108-9,318,364 horse riding homestays 496-7 Cathedral(Kyr) 322 Holy Trinity holidays 502-4 Hoja Ismail(U)250 Hoja, Islom274 HIV 533 hitching 527-8 oftheTimurids Museum (U) History ofthePeople Museum of History history 34-61, &LocalStudiesMuseum History (Kyr)359 Museum Historical 389 (Taj) Hissar Uzbekistan 231 Uzbekistan Kyrgyzstan 314 148 Kazakhstan Uzbekistan 254, 259, 277,278 Uzbekistan Tajikistan 395, 398, 405,407,408, Kyrgyzstan 297,344,349,354, 125,147,155-6,179, Kazakhstan 219 219 Uzbekistan empire 47-8 Zhungarian 45-6 Sassanid empire 40 52-3 Russian Revolution Russian empire 49-50 38-40 empire 42 Karakhanid Islam 40-2 independence 58-9 the50-1 Great Game, Ghaznavid empire 42 42-5 Khan Chinggis (Genghis) empire 50 British borders 392 53-4 Bolsheviks Battle ofTalas 41 Achaemenid empire 34-5 countries &locations 190 (Kaz) 257 Uzbekistan Tajikistan 389,407 180 Kazakhstan 411, 413,414 355, 356,364 181, 188 see also see alsoindividual trekking INDEX 557

30 118, 146 272 INDEX (H-K) 180, 193 money 196 travel agencies 113 travel to/from 199-201 travel within 202 visas 195, 198-9 122, 156, 206, 212, 243, 246, 254, 258, 261, 293, 425, 451, 457, 470, 482, 486, 487 accommodation 274-5 attractions 272-4 drinking 275-6 entertainment 276 food 275-6 history 271 shopping 276 tourist information 271-2 tours 274 travel to/from 276 arts 123-4 border crossings 200-1 climate 117 drinks 126 embassies 193-5 195, 196 festivals food 125-6 history 117-21 information 193, 196, 197-8 itineraries 30, 117, accommodation 192-3 activities 125, 130, 144, 148, 179, Kazarman (Kyr) 343-4 Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 173 (Kaz)Khan 148 Tengri (Kyr) 333 Khan Tengri Khan, Chinggis (Genghis) 42-5, 119, Khan, Umar 235 (U) 233-4 Khan’s Palace Khargush (Taj) 410 Khast Imom (U) 218-19 Khazrati-Imam complex (U) 252 (U) 270-6, Kara-Tepe (U) 255 (U) Kara-Tepe Karimov, 207, 208 Islam Karkara (Kaz) Valley 147-8 Karkara (Kyr) 319-20 Valley Karl Marx (Taj) 408 Peak KarLag Museum (Kaz) 185 Karlyuk Caves (Tur) 456 Karzai, Hamid 473 Katon-Karagay (Kaz) National Park 188 kayaking 110 Kazakh language 539-40 Kazakh people 62-3, 119-20, 122 Kazakhstan 116-202, 321, 326 478 Karaganda see accommodation 323-4 activities 323 attractions 322-3 entertainment 324 food 324 history 320 information 320, 321 money 320 shopping 324 travel agencies 321-2 travel to/from 324 travel within 325 269 accommodation 480 attractions 479-80 food 480 history 477 information 477, 479 money 477 travel to/from 481 travel within 481 183 Karakol (Kyr) 327-9 Valley Karakul (Taj) 416 Kara-Kul (Taj) 416 Karakum desert 442 Karatag (Taj) 389 Valley Kara-Jilga (Taj) 415 Karakalpak people 67, 276 Karakalpakstan (U) 276-81, Karakhanid 42 empire Karakol (Kyr) 320-5, Kabul 479 Museum (Afg) Kadji-Sai 331-2 (Kyr) Kala-i Khum (Taj) 403 Kalon (U) 261 Kalon Mosque (U) 261 Kalta Minor Minaret (U) 273 Kandahar 490 (Afg) Kapkytan Cave (Tur) 456 Karaganda (Kaz) 183-5 Karaganda Ecological Museum (Kaz) Karagandy, K 479 (Afg) Ka Faroshi Kabul 476-81, (Afg) Japanese memorialJapanese (Tur) 446 (Kyr) 358 Jayma Bazaar Jelandy (Taj) 411 Jerbent (Tur) 442 jet lag 532 Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 329-30 Jewish 246 history Jewish 67, 262 people 33 7 , 272 26 25, 27 see also individual 33 339, 340, 348, 349

97, 107 180, 325 63 World Heritage sites 33, countries activities 33, community-based tourism 106, 25, 27, Torugart 26, Pass medical 531 archaeology 34, 77, 84 architecture 76 environment 99, 100, 102 health 530 music 83 Silk Road 23, 40 visas 511 Afghanistan 484 Afghanistan 313, 326-7, 350 Kyrgyzstan 312, 409, 411, 414 Tajikistan dragon horses 40 dragon horses Przewalski’s horses 98, 148, J jailoos Ile-Alatau (Kaz) National Park 144 independence 58-9 influenza 533 insurance 504 internet access 504 22-3 internet resources Inylchek Glacier (Kyr) 334 (Kyr) 362-3 Irkeshtam Pass (U) 274 Isfandiyar Palace Ishkashim 488 (Afg) Ishkashim (Taj) 409 Iskander-Kul (Taj) 396-8 Islam 40-2, 71-5 (Kaz)Islamic Centre 173 Islom-Hoja Medressa (U) 274 Ismail Samani Mausoleum (U) 262 Ismailov, Hamid 82 isriq Istaravshan (Taj) 393 itineraries 25-33, I ibn-Sina, Abu Ali 379 ice houses 453 ice skating 436 Ichon-Qala (U) 272-3, hot springs horses 97 Jalalabad (Afg) 489 Jalalabad (Afg) Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 354-5 Jalang (Taj) 415 INDEX kok boru (Kyr)349 Kojumkul Koi-Tezek Pass 411 (Taj) 409 Koh-i-Lal rubymine(Taj) Koh-i-Garmo, Kochkor (Kyr)335-8, flying476 kite 57,74,120,172 Nikita Khrushchev, 404-7, (Taj) Khorog (U)268-76, Khorezm 390-2, (Taj) Khojand JumaMosque(U)273 Khiva 558 Kyrgyzstan 290-371, Kyrgyz people63-4 Kyrgyz language540-1 kymys 154 (Kaz) Kydyra Minaret Kushan empire 38-40 192 Kurchatov (Kaz) Kunduz (Afg) 487 Abay189,191 Kunanbaev, 88-9 kumys (Kyr)330 Kumtor GoldMine Kuhna Ark(U)273 456 (Tur) Kugitang Nature Reserve Kuchi people68-9 Kubra, Nejameddin458 443 (Tur) Köw AtaUndergroundLake Koshoy Korgon(Kyr)345-6 170-1 Ata(Kaz) Koshkar (Kaz) Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve Korean people67 457-9 (Tur) Konye-Urgench 415 Konye Kurgan(Taj) 146-7 (Kaz) Kolsay Lakes Kok-Tobe 132 (Kaz) 181-2 Kokshetau (Kaz) Kok-Gumbaz Mosque(U)252 Kokand (U)232-6, Kokand 416 Kök Jar(Taj) 000 000 festivals 367-8 embassies 365-7 customs 365 costs 291,368 climate 291 border crossings370-1 296 arts 309, 313,314,329,354, activities accommodation 364 179-80

Map pages Map Photograph pages 88-9 364-5 INDEX (K-M) INDEX 367, see alsobuzkashi see Pik Lenin 234 405 292 338 391 269 Mary (Tur) 448-51, (Tur) Mary 528 marshrutkas Kyzylorda (Kaz) 159-61 Kyzylorda (Kaz) Kyzyl-Oi (Kyr)349 171 (Kaz) Kyzylkala Pass 416 (Taj) Kyzyl-Art kyz-kumay 453 (Tur) Kyz Kala 459 Kyrk Molla(Tur) 456 Girl)Cave(Tur) Kyrk Gyz(Forty Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr)315-35, Lake 180-1 Burabay(Kaz) Lake 149 (Kaz) Balkhash Lake (U)256-7 Aidarkul Lake laghman L markets, markets, 396 (Taj) Lakes Marguzor (U)238-9 Margilon Polosheep103 Marco Polo44 Marco maps 504 Village(Kyr)303 Manas Manas 459 (Tur) IIMinaret Mamun 179 (Kaz) Malinovka 533 malaria 398 Bolo(Taj) Magrib (U)259 Maghoki-Attar M Lyabi-Hauz (U)259 luli literature 20-2,81-2, Letters ofInvitation(LOIs)510-11 lesbian travellers138,462,502 leishmaniasis 533 legal matters504 454-5 (Tur) Lebap Museum Regional language 537-43 Langar (U)254 410 Langar (Taj) landays Song-Köl(Kyr)339-40 Lake (Kyr)351-2 Sary-Chelek Lake 409 Sarez (Taj) Lake visas 366-7,369 travel within371 travel to/from370-1 travel agencies114 291 itineraries information 368,369 history 291-5 food 298 people 68 epic82,296 475 86 see 367 bazaars 449 see also 316 books mausoleums 78 ofSultanSanjar(Tur) Mausoleum Begum ofRabiga-Sultan Mausoleum 443 ofParauMausoleum Bibi(Tur) ofMohammedibnZeid Mausoleum Slu Khan ofMazlum Mausoleum ofIsmailal-Bukhari Mausoleum 472,473 AhmadShah Massoud, 192 ZhusipMosque(Kaz) Mashhur 449 (Tur) Museum Regional Mary Mausoleums of Two Askhab (Tur) 453 (Tur) ofTwoAskhab Mausoleums Yasaui 158, (Kaz) Mausoleum 458 Sultan Tekesh (Tur) Mausoleum Mausoleum Mahmud Pahlavon Nejameddin KubraMausoleum 154 (Kaz) BoboMausoleum Mirali ofTwoAskhab Mausoleums ofSultan Sanjar(Tur) Mausoleum ofRabiga-Sultan Mausoleum 443 ofParauMausoleum Bibi(Tur) ofMohammed ibn Mausoleum Slu Khan ofMazlum Mausoleum ofIsmailal-Bukhari Mausoleum 411 ofBekbulat(Taj) Mausoleum al-Termizi ofAl-Hakim Mausoleum (Kaz) Mausoleum Karashash-Ana 149-50 (Kaz) Mausoleum Karakhan (U)262 Ismail SamaniMausoleum 155 (Kaz) Ibragim AtaMausoleum (U)244-5 Mausoleum Gur-e-Amir 150 (Kaz) Dauitbek Mausoleum Naqshband Bakhautdin (Kaz) Mausoleum Babazhi Katun 151 (Kaz) Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum 157 (Kaz) Mausoleum Aristan-Bab Mausoleum Abd alAziz-Baba 452-3 158 (Kaz) 451-2 (Tur) (U) 280 (U) 250 Yunus (U)219 Mausoleum Khan (U) 274 458 (Tur) 453 (Tur) 452-3 158 Begum (Kaz) 451-2 Zeid (Tur) (U) 280 (U) 250 (U) 255 154 (U)268 Mausoleum 151 155 (Kaz) 6 INDEX 559

341 INDEX (M-N) (Kaz) 155-6 148-9 (Kaz) 183 454-5 (U) 218 Instruments 131 Repression (Kaz) 152 (Kaz) 179 382-4 Tajikistan (Kaz) 192 173 Museum (U) 278, 279 (U) 253-4 86 Tajikistan 382-4 Tajikistan ReserveAksu-Zhabagyly Nature Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 311-12 (Kaz)Altyn-Emel National Park KarLag Museum (Kaz) 185 Kazakhstan Museum of Arts 131-2 Regional MuseumLebap (Tur) Mary Regional Museum (Tur) 449 Moyie Mubarek Museum Library Museum of Applied Arts (U) 219 Museum of Kazakh Musical Museum of Victims of Political Museum of Victims of Repression museum of wood carvings 259 (U) National Gallery 479 (Afg) National Museum (Tur) 435 National Museum of of Antiquities museum National Nuclear Centre MuseumPresident’s (Kaz) 173 (Kaz) Centre Culture Presidential Museum (Kaz)Pugachyov 165 Rishton Ceramic Museum (U) 239 Savitsky Karakalpakstan Art Shevchenko Museum (Kaz) 171 State Art Museum (U) 245 State Historical Museum (Kyr) 303 ArtsState Museum of Fine (Kyr) 303 Archaeological Museum Termiz Kabul 479 Museum (Afg) Karaganda Museum Ecological National Gallery 479 (Afg) National Museum (Tur) 435 National Museum of Antiquities of (Kaz)National Nuclear Centre 192 national parks & reserves 98-9 N name changes 193 Naqshband, Bakhautdin 268 Naryn (Kyr) 340-2, nasvai music 82-3 434 453 (U) 234-5 (Kyr) 359 (Tur) 441 (Kaz) 182 384 (Kaz) 190 Uzbekistan 219 (U) 219 Solidarity (U) 246 Iranian mosque (Tur)Iranian mosque 434 (Kaz)Islamic Centre 173 Jami Mosque, Kokand (U) 235 Kalon Mosque (U) 261 Khiva Juma Mosque (U) 273 Mosque (U) 252 Kok-Gumbaz Mashhur (Kaz) Zhusip Mosque 192 mosque of Khezrety Omar (Tur) (Tur) Hamadani Mosque of Yusuf Narbutabey Mosque & Medressa 487 No Gombad Mosque (Afg) Pul-e Khishti 479 Mosque (Afg) Rabat Abdullah Khan Mosque Ruhy Mosque Turkmenbashi (U) 218 (Kaz) 179 Abay Museum (Kaz) 189-90 Abylay Khan Residence Museum Afrosiab Museum (U) 245 Museum (U) 252 Amir Bekhzod National Museum (Taj) Carpet Museum (Tur) 434 Central State Museum (Kaz) 131 Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 190 Earthquake Museum (Tur) 434 Ethnography Museum (Kaz) 185-6 ArtsFine Museum of Uzbekistan 219 Frunze House-Museum (Kyr) 303 Geology Museum (Kaz) 132 Historical Museum (Kyr) 359 History & Local Studies Museum History of Museum of the People History Museum of the Timurids & International Museum of Peace mountain biking 110 mountaineering 110-11 Moyie Mubarek Library Museum Moynaq (U) 280-1 Muqimi, Mohammedamin 235 Murgab (Taj) 412-14 485 Musalla Complex (Afg) Museum of Applied Arts (U) 219 Museum of Victims of Repression museums & galleries 452 (Taj) 384 (Kaz) 190-1 (Kaz) 132 Totalitarian Regime (Kaz) 173 434 Turkmenistan (Taj) 384 Medressa (U) 273 (U) 235 (U) 243 Hazrat-Hizr Mosque (U) 246 Azadi mosque (Tur) 434 Bibi-Khanym Mosque (U) 244 Chinese Mosque (Kyr) 322 Friday 485 Mosque, Herat (Afg) mosque and medressa Haji Yakoub Monument to the Dead of the Monument to the Independence of statue of Ismail Samani (Taj) 385 Aral Sea memorial (U) 281 Earthquake Memorial (U) 220 Japanese memorial (Tur) 446 Heroes (Kaz)Panfilov 131 Stronger than Death memorial (U) 273 monument (Kaz)Bayterek 176 (Kaz)Dawn of Freedom 132-3 Monument to Independence Islom-Hoja Medressa (U) 274 Mohammed Rakhim Khan Sahib Mian Hazrat Medressa Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa (U) 243 Tilla-Kari (Gold-Covered) Medressa Ulugbek Medressa (U) 243, 259 Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (U) 259 medressa mosque and Haji Yakoub Mosque of Yusuf Hamadani (Tur) 453 Mosque of Yusuf mosques 77-8 Merv (Tur) 451-3, Merzbacher Lake (Kyr) 333 Minaret 483 of Jam (Afg) 78 Misrian (Tur) 445 Mizdakhan (U) 280 Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa money 19-20, 504-7 moneychangers 506 monuments memorials Maymyr (Kaz) 188 Mazar-e Sharif 486-7 (Afg) 500 measures Medeu (Kaz) 143-4 Medeu ice rink 143 medical services 532-3 78 medressas INDEX Oral, (Afg) Museum OMAR Land Mine 180 Okzhetpes (Kaz) oil 60 173 oceanariums O people68 Nuristani Biosphere Reserve Nuratau-Kyzylkum Nuratau Mountains(U)257 Nurata (U)256-7 276-80, Nukus nuclear tests124-5,189 nomadic life 160-1 443 (Tur) Nokhur Nodira 235 No GombadMosque(Afg) 487 Niyazov, Saparmurat60,61,74,427, 441 Nissa (Tur) newspapers 500 Movement189 Nevada-Semipalatinsk (Tur) Nejameddin KubraMausoleum Navrus 503-5 Navoi Park (U)219-20 Navoi, Alisher81,219 national parks&reserves 560 000 000 Zapadno-Altaysky (WesternAltay) Zapadno-Altaysky NationalPark Ugam-Chatkal Sayram-Ugam NationalPark 351 Biosphere Reserve Sary-Chelek Biosphere Nuratau-Kyzylkum 456 (Tur) Kugitang Nature Reserve (Kaz) Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve NationalPark Katon-Karagay Valley (Kyr)327-9 Karakol 144 NationalPark (Kaz) Ile-Alatau Burabay NationalNature Park Amir(Afg) 483 Band-e Badai-Tugai (U) Nature Reserve 479-80 (U) 257 428, 431,433,435,436,441,442 458

see Map pages Map Photograph pages Nature Reserve (Kaz) 188 (Kaz) Nature Reserve (U) 230 156 (Kaz) (U)257 Reserve 179-80 188 (Kaz) 180 (Kaz) 270 Uralsk INDEX (N-R) INDEX 278 continued Özgön (Kyr)355-6 Ozero BolshoeAlmatinskoe(Kaz) overgrazing 102 156-7 (Kaz) Oskemen, 295 Osh Riots Osh (Kyr)356-61, Petropavl, petroglyphs permits 510 people 62-70 393-6, Penjikent (Taj) 389 Payron (Taj) Lake 192 Pavlodar (Kaz) Pashtunwali 67 Pashtun people66-7 parks &gardens 443 Parau Bibi(Tur) Panfilov 131 Park (Kaz) Pamirs, 399-416, the(Taj) Pamiri houses401 411-16, Pamir (Taj) Highway Palace 176 ofPeace &Accord(Kaz) 441 Palace ofOrphans(Tur) 176 Palace ofIndependence(Kaz) painting 83-4 Mausoleum Mahmud Pahlavon P Petropavlovsk (Kaz) 182-3 Petropavlovsk (Kaz) 144-5 visas 358 travel within361 travel to/from360 shopping 360 information 356,358 food 360 360 entertainment 360 drinking 358-9 attractions accommodation 359-60 Zukarnay (U)256 Zukarnay Terekty 148 (Kaz) Tamgaly 148 (Kaz) Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr)344 Cholpon-Ata 317 Ak-Jilga 412 (Taj) Panfilov 131 Park (Kaz) Pamir 404 (Taj) BotanicalGardens Navoi Park (U)219-20 Gorky Park (Almaty) 133 385 Dushanabe BotanicalGardens Dubovy (Oak)Park (Kyr) 303 (Afg) 479 Babur’s Gardens (U) 274 see see Ust-Kamenogorsk Petropavlovsk 357 394 400 11 , the(U)243-4, Registan, Island211 Rebirth 410 (Taj) Fort Ratm 414 (Taj) Rang-Kul 189 Klyuchi(Kaz) Rakhmanovskie 110 rafting rabies 534 R 443 Qyz Bibi(Tur) qymyz Q registration 507, Russian Revolution 52-3 Russian Revolution churches133,190, Russian Orthodox Russian language537-9 Russian empire 49-50 rugs 81, 408 Roshtqala (Taj) 408 (Taj) Roshorv rock climbing110-11 (U) 239 CeramicMuseum Rishton (U)239 Rishton 132-3 Alangy(Kaz) Respublika responsible travel23-4 religion 71-5,123,210,296,379, Purges, the55 Mosque(Afg) 479 Khishti Pul-e 165 Pugachyov (Kaz) Museum horses98,148,180, Przewalski’s Nikolai325-6 Przewalski, &Pristan Memorial Przewalski 173 (Kaz) President’s Museum 507 postal services 44 Polo, Marco pollution 102 190 Polkovnichy Island(Kaz) poetry 81-2 poaching 102-3 plov planning 19-24 plague, the46,534 Pik Pobedy(Kyr)333 Pik Lenin (Kyr)362 photography 507 Uzbekistan 231 Uzbekistan tours 305 Kyrgyzstan 314 446, 455 429, 474 Pamirs, the401 locations 325 (Kyr)325-6 Prahevalsk 86, 223 88-9 see also carpets see also 6

individual INDEX 561

150 214-15, 231 Timur (Tamerlane) Timur INDEX (S-T) see 435 253-4 (Kaz) 144 accommodation 221-2 activities 220-1 attractions 218-20 drinking 224-5 entertainment 225-6 food 222-4 history 212 information 213, 216 money 216 shopping 226-7 travel agencies 217-18 travel to/from 227-8 travel within 228 tips 229, 528 arts 379 421-2 border crossings climate 373 costs 373, 419 economy 377 embassies 417-18 380 environmental issues 418 festivals food 380 history 373-7 information 418, 419, 420 itineraries 373 travel agencies 114 travel to/from 421-2 travel within 422-3 visas 418, 420 women under 68-70 Terekty petroglyphs (Kaz) 148 Terekty (U) 253-6 Termiz Archaeological Museum (U) Termiz theft 500 Shan Astronomical ObservatoryTian Tamga (Kyr) 330-1 Tamga petroglyphs (Kaz) 148 Tamgaly (Kaz) 149-51, Taraz 342-3 Tash-Bashat Rabat (Kyr) 346 Tash 212-29, Tashkent (Kyr) 351 Tashkömür taxi travel 526-7, 528 tea 88 tea etiquette 91 teahouses 89 telephone services 508-9 telpeks Talas (Kyr) 349-50 (Kyr) Talas the 59-60, 472-3 Taliban, (Kyr) 316 Tamchy Tamerlane, 25, 27 374 38-9 309, 339, 508 309, 339, 81, 250, 256, 267, 276, 388 accommodation 416 activities 389, 397, 407, 416-17 buying 226 books 21 40 23, internet resources itineraries 25, 27, train travel 523 cross-country 112 Kazakhstan 143 Kyrgyzstan 313, 329, 354 Uzbekistan 230 303 190-1 458 buying 227 388 Tajikistan Uzbekistan 238, 266, 276 T (Tur) 454 Tagtabazar language 541 Tajik people 64-5 Tajik 372-423, Tajikistan swastika-shaped (Kyr) 342-3 forest swimming 436 Singing Dune (Kaz) 148 skiing 111-12 Slav people 66 snow leopards 98 Solomon’s Throne (Kyr) 358 58, 471-3 Soviets in Afghanistan spas 311-13, 329 Spassk (Kaz) 185 speed skating 143 St Nicholas’ Cathedral (Kaz) 133 Stalin 54, 55 State Art Museum (U) 245 State Historical Museum (Kyr) 303 ArtsState Museum of Fine (Kyr) State Philharmonia (Kaz) 138 STDs 534 Stoddart, Charles 264 names 193 street Stronger than Death memorial (Kaz) study 514 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 171 Mausoleum (Tur)Sultan Tekesh Sunkar eagle farm (Kaz) 144 Surkhandarya province (U) 254 (Kyr) 348-9 Suusamyr Valley suzani shyrdaks Sibinskie Lakes (Kaz) 188 silk Silk Road 36-7, 242 152 251 190 10 Semey see 8 487 351 (U) 278, 279 Afghanistan 469, 480 Afghanistan 246-8 accommodation attractions 243-6 246 festivals food 248 history 241 information 241 money 243 tours 246 travel agencies 243 travel to/from 249-50 travel within 250 Shymkent (Kaz) 151-4, Shaybanid dynasty 47 Sherkala (Kaz) 171 171 Shevchenko, Taras ship cemetery (Kaz) 162 Shokh (Taj) 408-9 Dara Valley shopping 507-8 Shrine 486 of Hazrat Ali (Afg) Shrine (Afg) of Khoja Abu Nasr Parsa Sassanid empire 40 Sassanid empire (Taj)Sassyk-Kul 412 Sauran (Kaz) 159 Savitsky Karakalpakstan Art Museum Savnob (Taj) 408 Sayram (Kaz) 154 (Kaz)Sayram-Ugam National Park 156 Semey (Kaz) 189-92, Shakhty (Taj) 415 (Kaz)Shakpak-Ata 171 taxis 527 shared shashlyk 85, Sary Moghul (Kyr) 361-2 (Kyr) 361 Sary Tash (Taj) 416 Sary Tash Sary-Chelek Reserve Biosphere 99, Semipalatinsk Polygon (Kaz) 192 Semipalatinsk, Shad, Gowhar 45, 46, 79, 485 Shah-i-Zinda (U) 244 Shahr-e 482 (Afg) Gholghola Shahriyar Ark (Tur) 453 Shaimak (Taj) 415 Shakhrisabz (U) 251-3, Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 344-5 Sailmaluu Tash Samani, Ismail 375 (U) 240-50, 319 (Kyr) San-Tash Sarala-Saz (Kyr) 339, S 20 safety INDEX Turkmenbashi 435-6 Cableway(Tur) Turkmenbashi, seeNiyazov, Turkmenbashi (town;Tur) 446-8, Turkmenabat 454-6, (Tur) Turkmen people65-6 Turkmen language541-2 157-9, (Kaz) 458 Turabeg Complex(Tur) Khanym Tulip 294 Revolution 534 tuberculosis (TB) trekking 104-8, trekking travellers cheques506 travel withinCentralAsia523-9 travel to/fromCentralAsia515-23 travel permits198,286,464,493,510 travel agencies524 travel advice501 train travel528-9 traditions 69-70 tours 524 information509-10 tourist Tosh-Hovli Palace (U)274 Pass 346-8, Torugart (Afg) 489-90 Torkham Tör-Ashuu Pass (Kyr)348 435 Bazaar(Tur) Tolkuchka toilets 509 tipping 506 Timurid empire 45-6 Timur 389 (Taj) Dara Lake Timur 35,43,45-6,76, (Tamerlane) time 509 562 000 000 Saparmurat warnings 145 230 Uzbekistan tours 304-5,323 Tajikistan 397,412 Kyrgyzstan 311-13,323,327-9, 145-7,148 Kazakhstan internet resources 104,108 Kazakhstan 188 Kazakhstan adventure 113-15,188 Silk Road523 classes 522 border crossings521-2 archaeological 113 adventure travel188 26, itineraries 458, 470 77, 157,220,241,244,245,251,

Map pages Map Photograph pages 334, 351-2,353-4,361 INDEX (T-W) INDEX see also 26 336 158 hiking 455 447 Tyoplye Klyuchi(Kyr)312 Tuz-Kul 412 (Taj) Turuntai-Kul 409 (Taj) Turkmenistan 424-67, Turkmenbashi RuhyMosque(Tur) Unesco World Heritage sites, Unesco WorldHeritage (U)245 Ulugbek’s Observatory (U)243,259 Ulugbek Medressa National Park (U) Ugam-Chatkal 190 Shokan Ualikhanov, U Uzbekistan 203-89, Uzbekistan Uzbek people66 Uzbek language542 Uyghur people67 185-8, (Kaz) Ust-Kamenogorsk Turkmenbashi WorldofFairytales Urgut bazaar250-1, Urgut 250-1 Urgench (U)268-9 165 Uralsk (Kaz) visas 462,465-6 travel within467 travel to/from466-7 travel agencies114 registration 464 money 463-4 31,425, itineraries information 463,464 holidays 462-3 history 425-8 food 430 embassies 461-2 customs regulations 461 costs 425 climate 425 border crossings466-7 429 arts 461 activities accommodation 460-1 441 230 embassies 282-3 costs 204 climate 204 border crossings287-8 284 black market 210 arts 230,231,257,259, activities accommodation 281 186 435 (Tur) sites World Heritage 281-2 205 8 426 31 see Vrang (Taj) 410 Vrang (Taj) Vozrozhdenie Ostrov211 199,514 volunteering World Heritage sites World Heritage work 514 women’s health536 women travellers513-14 women 314 rafting white-water weights 500 websites, weather 19,499 330,353,389 waterfalls water 535 War onTerror 61 Valley 409-11 (Taj) Wakhan (Afg) 488-9 Corridor Wakhan W visas 510-13, Virgin Landsscheme57,120 video systems500,507 travellers90 vegetarian 171 Valley ofBalls(Kaz) vaccinations 531-2 V WWII 55-8 visas 286 travel within288-9 travel to/from286-8 travel agencies115 money 283-5 204 itineraries information 283-6 history 206-8 food 211 festivals 283 Yasaui 158, (Kaz) Mausoleum Tamgaly 148 petroglyphs(Kaz) Solomon’s Throne(Kyr) 358 (U)251 Shakhrisabz (U)240 Samarkand 441 Nissa (Tur) ofJam(Afg) 483 Minaret (Kaz) Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve oldcity(U)270 Khiva’s countries itineraries 33, itineraries (U)257 Bukhara Bamiyan (Afg) 481-3 451 ancient Merv under theTaliban 68 under theSoviets57 179-80 see internet resources see also 33

individual 6 INDEX 563

INDEX (Y-Z) (Kaz) 183 (U) 230 276 (U) 266 Ugam-Chatkal National Park shopping & tours (Taj) 406 De Pamiri Embroidery Group (U) 249 Human House (U) 226 Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop (U) Khiva (U) 276 Centre Suzani Rakhimov Ceramics Studio (U) 226 Shop Unesco Carpet Weaving Yak House (Taj) 41 3 Band-e 483 Amir (Afg) Karaganda Museum Ecological Nature ReserveNature (Kaz) 188 attractions Z Zahiruddin Babur 47 Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay) Cathedral (Kaz)Zenkov 131 (Taj) 398-9 Valley Zerafshan Zhalanash (Kaz) 162 Zhumbaktas (Kaz) 180 Zhungarian 47-8 empire Zong (Taj) 410 zoos 322 454 Zukarnay (U) 256 Petroglyphs

yurt camps see also 342, 346, 349 Reserve community-based tourism project (U) 257 Taj) (META; 413 (Taj) Information Centre 404 (Kaz) 156 156 Development Association (Taj) 395 Kazakhstan 147 Kyrgyzstan 304, 319, 333, 339, 414, 415 Tajikistan 219 Kyrgyzstan 329 415 Tajikistan Uzbekistan 256-7, 270 Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere 488 Mountain Unity (Afg) Murgab Ecotourism Association Pamirs Ecotourism Association Regional Ecotourism Centre (Kaz)Wild Nature WWOOF (Kaz) 199 Zerafshan Tourism Yunus Khan Mausoleum (U) Yunus yurt camps yurt (Kyr) 330 workshop yurts337 yurtstays 498, 6 (Afg) 488 (Afg) 482 297 (Kaz) 130 Centre (Kaz) 184 304 Central Asia leads the way in community-based tourism projects. Once a way for remote herders herders Once a way for remote tourism projects. leads the way in community-based Asia Central budget travel income from the occasional tourist, it’s revolutionised and villages to earn vital into Kazakhstan, with projects spilling over Uzbekistan and even and Tajikistan, in Kyrgyzstan craft and several part-funded from tourism revenue areas, of protected A sprinkling Afghanistan. a lot of fun you can have prove handicraft traditions revived tourist dollars have where centres ecotourism programs, following homestay organisations, The Asia. and do a lot of good in Central highlights. Asia’s and rank among Central craft workshops and national parks all do good work 238 Aral Tenizi (Kaz) 162 Aral Tenizi Bamyan Ecotourism Office (Afg) Community Based Tourism (Kyr) Ecotour (Kyr) 304 Ecotourism Information Resource Ekos (Kaz) 181 homestays (Taj)Geisev 407 Valley Game 488 Great Travel (Afg) Nomadic Travel Kazakhstan NoviNomad (Kyr) accommodation & activities KhanAga Development Network GREENDEX Yoged (Taj) 403 Younghusband, Francis 51 Yashil-Kul (Taj) 411 Yashil-Kul (Taj) 408 Yemts (U) Yodgorlik (Souvenir) Silk Factory Y (Taj) 398-9 Valley Yagnob Fort (Taj) 410 Yamchun (Taj) 410 Yamg Canyon (Tur)Yangykala 445-6 Kozha Akhmed 157 Yasaui, Mausoleum (Kaz) 158, Yasaui 564 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Freeway Mall/Steps Australia (Head Office) Primary Tunnel Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Secondary Pedestrian Overpass %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Tertiary Walking Tour POSITIONALLane Walking Tour Detour [email protected] Unsealed Road Walking Trail One-Way Street Walking Path USA ONLY Track 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 TRANSPORT %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 Ferry Rail fax 510 893 8572 Metro Bus Route [email protected] HYDROGRAPHY River, Creek Canal UK Glacier Water Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, BOUNDARIES London W12 7TQ International Regional, Suburb %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 State, Provincial Ancient Wall Disputed Cliff [email protected] AREA FEATURES Area of Interest Land Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Beach, Desert Mall Building Market ABN 36 005 607 983 Campus Park Cemetery, Christian Sports © Lonely Planet 2010 Cemetery, Other Urban © photographers as indicated 2010 POPULATION CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) Cover photograph: Shrine of Hazrat Ali, Mazar-e Sharif, Afghanistan, Large City Medium City Small City Town, Village Stephane Victor/Lonely Planet Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: lonely SYMBOLS Sights/Activities Drinking Information planetimages.com. Beach Drinking Bank, ATM Christian Café Embassy/Consulate All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored Islamic Entertainment Hospital, Medical in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, Entertainment Information Jewish Shopping Internet Facilities electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts Monument Shopping Police Station for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Museum, Gallery Sleeping Post Office, GPO or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Point of Interest Sleeping Telephone Pool Camping Toilets 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Ruin Transport Geographic Skiing Airport, Airfield Lookout Border Crossing Mountain, Volcano Printed by Toppan Security Printing Pte Ltd Trail Head Bus Station National Park Printed in Singapore Zoo, Bird Sanctuary General Transport Pass, Canyon Eating Parking Area River Flow Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Eating Taxi Rank Spot Height Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR QUICK REFERENCE MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✆ buy books ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your HOW TO USE THIS BOOK BUSINESS HOURS soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right Sleeping and Eating reviews are listed in budget order. Banks 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get For details of map symbols, see the Map Legend on the challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a last page of this book. Businesses & shops 9am-6pm daily clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ✍ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books % apt apartments telephone Restaurants lunch & dinner ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ✏ get DVDs ☞ plan h opening hours d double rooms Exceptions are noted in specific listings. adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✈ book flights ✎ scam n nonsmoking rooms/ dm dorm beds, home ➠ ✗ ✍ ✓ areas available stay, yurtstay the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo a air-con available f family rooms TELEPHONE safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ i internet available lux luxury room  $ ➷ Afghanistan country code %93 find restaurant reviews book a bed spare some change get challenged take the s swimming pool half-lux semi-luxury room plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost p parking available q quad rooms ✎ ✄ ✉ ✩ ☺ ✍ Kazakhstan country code %7 love chew the fat save some money buy a gift get inspired share a story read E English menu r rooms hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to v good vegetarian s single rooms Kyrgyzstan country code %996 mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up food selection ste suites ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get out of a minefield W wi-fi tr triple rooms Tajikistan country code %992 ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ tw twin rooms meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear Turkmenistan country code %993 the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change EXCHANGE RATES get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ Uzbekistan country code %998 make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get Prices in this guide are given in the currency they are nor- inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ mally quoted in – usually Afghanis (Afg), Kazakh tenge Ambulance* %03 ✏ ☎ ❛ ✗ ✉ ☞ (T), Uzbek som (S), Kyrgyz som (som), Tajik somani (TJS), buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories check warnings read hints plan Turkmen new manat (M), or US dollars or euros. adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ Police* %02 For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. learn how to get out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ ☎ ✆ ✈ ✎ US$1 UK£1 €1 AS$ (*these numbers do not include Afghanistan; see p477) get the lowdown talk to travellers meet your soul mate practise hippo safety cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant Afghanistan 45.5 65.7 54 37 reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download KEY PHRASES IN RUSSIAN guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat Kazakhstan 147 212.5 176 121 Hello. zdrastvuyte ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get ✈ ✆ ✏ ☎ ❛ ✗ Goodbye. da svidaniya advice (on everything) book flights buy books get DVDs brag to mates tell stories Kyrgyzstan 46 66.5 55 38 check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle Thanks. spasiba ✎ ➠ ✗ ✍ Tajikistan 4.4 6.3 5.2 3.6 Do you speak English? vy gavarite pa angliyski? monkeys scam the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road- trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate Turkmenistan 2.8 4.1 3.4 2.3 ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews  book a bed $ spare some change get challenged Uzbekistan* 1600 2300 1900 1300 CONVERSIONS ➷ ❀ ☛ ➟ 1in = 2.54cm take the plunge download guides sell stuff meet the locals make a clean escape (*official rates) ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a 1cm = 0.39in story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get 1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make PRICE RANGES 1ft = 0.3m lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam the scammers ➠ learn how to get Sleeping 1km = 0.62 miles out of a minefield ✗ complain ✍ find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ 1 mile = 1.6km talk to travellers ✆ meet your soul mate ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the savanna ✩ take Budget < US$25 ✍ ➎  1kg = 2.2lb better photos wear the right shoes, boots, sandals find restaurant reviews book a bed $ spare some change get challenged ➷ take the plunge download guides ❀ sell stuff ☛ Midrange US$25-70 1lb = 0.45kg meet the locals ➟ make a clean escape ♥ find lost love ✎ chew the fat ✄ save some money 1g = 0.04oz Top end > US$70 ✉ buy a gift ✩ get inspired ☺ share a story ✍ read hotel reviews ☎ get advice (on everything) 1oz = 28g ✈ book flights ✆ buy books ✏ get DVDs ☎ brag to mates ❛ tell stories ✗ check warnings ✉ Accommodation ranges are higher in major cities like 1 imperial gallon = 4.55L read hints ☞ plan adventures ✓ make lists ✆ listen up ☞ get lost ✂ wrestle monkeys ✎ scam Almaty and Tashkent. ➠ ✗ ✍ 1L = 0.26 US gallons the scammers learn how to get out of a minefield complain find road-trip buddies ✓ recommend ✑ get the lowdown ☎ talk to travellers ✈ practise hippo safety ✎ cruise the 1 US gallon = 3.8L savanna ✩ take better photos ✍ wear the right shoes, boots, sandals ➎ find restaurant reviews LONELY PLANET INDEX 1L = 0.22 imperial gallons  $ ➷ 1L bottle water US$0.30 (Uzbekistan) to book a bed spare some change get challenged take the plunge download guides US$0.80 (Afghanistan) Bottled beer US$0.50 (Turkmenistan) to US$2 (Afghanistan) lonelyplanet.com Shashlyk US$0.30 (Uzbekistan) to US$2 (Kazakhstan) Almost too much information 1L petrol US$0.25 (Turkmenistan) to 5TH EDITION USA $32.99 US$1 (Tajikistan) Published Oct 2010 First Published June 1996 UK £19.99

ccentral-asia-5-cover.inddentral-asia-5-cover.indd 2 115/07/20105/07/2010 4:32:494:32:49 PPMM © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’