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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Bradley Mayhew the last edition and wrote to us with help- Thanks to stalwart co-authors Tom, John, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Mark and our anonymous Turkmenistan anecdotes: author. Hard to find a more dedicated and A Thomas Allen, Steven Aspland B Don Beer, professional bunch of Central Asian travel Leon Boelens, Pierre Brouillet, Joe Bryant enthusiasts. Thanks to the much-missed C James Chance, Arthur Clement De Givry, Suzannah Shwer for getting this title up and Judy Comont D Matthew Dearden, Kieran running one more time. Drake, Paul-Noël Dumont F Sara Frau G Bas Geelen, Ask Gudmundsen H Margaret Mark Elliott Hawthorn, PJ Henry, Miriam Herzfeld, Allan A giant rakhmat to Umar Isakov, Anna Hubble, Aaron Hurd J Martin Jaeckel, Nathan Keil, Ervin Bartis and family, Janice Setser, Jones, Martin Jung K Wolfgang Keller, David Zhandiya Zoolshooeva, Christophe and Kerkhoff, Tyler Keys, Hans-Werner Kopp, Mar- Nicole, Ed Hewitt, Chris Mathis, Andrew tin Král, Aleksandra Krukar L Eric-Jan Lens, Tucker-Peake, Alick Warburton, Jop Fabian Liechti M Richard Mallett, Helena Weterings, Phil Riddle, Robin Ord-Smith, Moon, Martijn Munneke N Arihe (Eric) Nee- Zafar in Penjikent, Will Cooper, Sang Wang, mann, Pascal Noel P Nina Plumbe, Jo Py- Clement Meynier, Aspia, Flora Renner, the croft R Jacqueline Ripart, Steve Rogowski, Pamir Lodge crew, Lola, Murat and friends, Michal Rudziecki S Martina Schroeter, Aleema Shivji, Taalai and family in Karakol, Tanya Semyonova, Roberto Spanghero T the memory of Wil Klass. Back home, a mil- Frank Techel V Marinus Vissers W Stefan lion thanks to ‘the Kids’ for endless support, Wieser, Barry Wilkinson, Kathleen Williams, tea and medals. And to Harriet for waiting Sabine Wissel, Barbara Wolfke, Sebastian and sharing. Wolking, Stephen Wong Y Robert Young BEHIND THE SCENES 505 - - Anita Banh, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghten, Chad Parkhill, Paton.Trent Martine DiannePower, Schall meiner, Luna Soo, John AngelaTaufa, Tinson Cover Research Naomi Parker Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Errol Hunt, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Valentina Kremenchutskaya,

Sasha Paul Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System System Earth and Hydrology Classification’, 1633-44. 11, Sciences, Bukhara, Minar, Char photograph: Cover © Falzone/Corbis Michele Uzbekistan. John Noble without impossible is quite this like project A Extra people. of whole lot a help from willing Manson, Assely and Robert to thanks special Serik Baskakova, Svetlana Berghof, David Abdeshev, Askar and Alikhan Dyusenbaev, Karlygash Schreiber, Dagmar Shuptar, Vitaly Yurch Andrey Petrov, Alexander Makatova, Tourism (Kashgar Tash Ali Hudabardy enkov, Zhukenova, Zhamilya China), International, Tom Mark, Bradley, authors fellow and my author. Turkmenistan and the ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted data maps Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate Köppen-Geiger the of Map World Karyn Noble -

Assisting Editors Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Alan Kiely, Murphy Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, James Leversha Coordinating Editors Lauren Hunt, Amanda Williamson Senior Cartographer David Kemp Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Managing Editors Baskett, Brigitte Ellemor Senior Editor -

Central Asia following: Commissioning Editor Suzannah Shwer an anonymous author for Turkmenistan. This guide book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office and produced by the Planet’s guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, Tom Masters, John Noble and THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Joli in Nukus, especially Era andAijamal. Advantour inTashkent, particularly Murod and Feruza; to David Berghof at Stantours; to Dowlet and Sasha in Samarkand; Gulnara and Hamid in Bukhara; Hannelore Bendsen in Khiva and the crew at theJipek hardly a complaint at the complete lack of caffeine and wireless, and who dutifully slogged around towns with me all day visiting various hotels, medressas and museums. Big thanks also to the team at house team at LPHQ in Melbourne (you shall all be missed!). On the road, a huge debt of gratitude to my intrepid and im mensely patient mother, who negotiated the deserts of Uzbekistan with me with Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott,John Noble andTurkmenistan’s anonymous author for all their help and intelligence sharing. Thanks also toJanine and the entire in- Tom MastersTom Big thanks to my team of fellow authors: ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 506

Index

ABBREVIATIONS trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 74-5, history 56 Ark (Uz) 193 Kaz Kazakhstan 77, 78, 111, 114, 158-9, information 67-9 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 251, 266-7, 268-9, Kyr Kyrgyzstan registration 68 Burana Tower (Kyr) 252-3 272-3, 273-5, 282, 287, Taj Tajikistan 305, 317, 325, 327, 363, shopping 66-7 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3 Tur Turkmenistan 7, 14, 15 sights 56-60 Erk Kala (Tur) 390 Uz Uzbekistan wildlife watching 85, 86 tours 61, 68-9 Fayoz-Tepe (Uz) 184 Afghan Wakhan (Taj) travel to/from 69-70 Gonur Depe (Tur) 391 352, 367 travel within 70-1 Ice House (Tur) 390 4WDs 45-6, 48, 313, 368, Afghanistan Altay Mountains (Kaz) Kara-Tepe (Uz) 184 486 border crossings 226, 23, 111 Kyz Kala (Tur) 390 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 348, 352, 367, 404-5 Altyn-Arashan (Kyr) 265-6 Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191 Pamires, the 338-9 relations with 428-9 Altyn Asyr Market Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 Wakhan Valley 350 visas to 224, 308, 352, (Tur) 376-7 Mizdakhan (Uz) 214 366, 403 Altyn-Emel National Park Otyrar-Tobe (Kaz) 87 (Kaz) 78 Afrosiab (Uz) 174-5 Sauran (Kaz) 89 A ALZhIR Museum-Memorial accommodation 462-3, see Aga Khan 361 Complex (Kaz) 106 Shakhty (Taj) 355-6 also individual locations airlines 479-80, see also Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97 individual locations amin 474 Achik-Tash (Kyr) 297 Sherkala (Kaz) 97 airports 478-9, see also Amir Timur Museum activities 24-5, 40-6, see Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97 individual locations (Uz) 183 also individual locations Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1 air travel 478-82, 485-6, amoebic dysentery 493 bird watching 46, 73, 85, Tamgaly petroglyphs 86, 107, 126, 186, 258 see also individual amusement parks, locations see also waterparks (Kaz) 78 camel trekking 43, 186-7, Temir Abdal Ata 202-3, 221, 363 Ak-Baital (White Horse) Astana (Kaz) 98 Pass (Taj) 356 cave-shrine (Kaz) 97 heli-skiing 45, 159, 305 Shymkent (Kaz) 83 Akhal-Teke horses 377, ancient Khorezm (Uz) 202 Ulugbek’s Observatory horse racing 61, 83, (Uz) 175 399-400, 457 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 331-2 306, 382 architectural sites Ak-Saray Palace (Uz) 181-2 Andijon (Uz) 168-9 horse riding 43, 87, 114, Astana (Kaz) 12, 22, 124, 186, 257, 274, 304, Ak-Suu (Kyr) 297 Andijon massacre 161, 98-99, 102-3, 100-1, 324-5, 377 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature 215-16, 429 2, 12, 23 ice skating 71-2 Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126 animal market (Kyr) 258-9 Ashgabat (Tur) 374-5 mountain biking 43-4, 72, Aktau (Kaz) 93-6, 94 Anzob Tunnel (Taj) 326 Karakol (Kyr) 259 263, 287 Aktobe (Kaz) 135 Aral Sea (Kaz) 22, 91-3, Khojand (Taj) 335 mountaineering 44-5, 77, Akyrtas (Kaz) 81 459-60 Samarkand (Uz) 20, 171-6 78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, Ala-Archa Canyon Aral Sea (Uz) 22, 212, 213, 305, 329, 363 (Kyr) 250-2 216, 459-60 Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-9, nut harvesting 287 Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329 Aralsk (Aral) (Kaz) 91-3 88, 17 rafting 44, 114, 159, 233, Alay Valley (Kyr) 296-7 archaeological sites 23, 357 Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135 305 Alexander the Great 411-12 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature architecture 451-4 rock climbing 44-5, 251, Almaty (Kaz) 16, 56-71, Reserve petroglyphs highlights 52, 452 297, 305 58-9, 5, 16 (Kaz) 85 Islamic 49, 171-3, 189-95, sailing 93, 255 205-7. 334, 390-1, 451 accommodation 62-4 Akyrtas (Kaz) 81 snow sports 45, 71-2, 159, Silk Road 20 activities 60-1 Altay Mountains (Kaz) 111 267, 287, 305, 326 Soviet 147, 232 drinking & nightlife 65-6 Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 78 Ark (Uz) 193 entertainment 66 ancient Khorezm 202-3 Arslanbob (Kyr) 286-8 Map Pages 000 festivals & events 61-2 ancient Penjikent (Taj) arts 446-50, see also Photo Pages food 64-5 000 331-2 literature, music 507 Ashgabat (Tur) 22, 374-84, (Tur) 376-7 border crossings 35-9, C 376-7, 380 Animal Market 38-9, 16 camel trekking 43, 186-7, accommodation 378-9 (Kyr) 258-9 Afghan Wakhan 202-3, 221, 363 activities 377 Barakholka (Kaz) 67 (Taj) 352, 367 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3 drinking & nightlife 381-2 Bazar Samal (Kaz) 82-3 Afghanistan 226, 367, Nurata (Uz) 187-8 404-5 entertainment 382 Bukhara (Uz) 191 caravanserais 28, 284-5,

food 379-81 Central (Upper) Bazaar Azerbaijan 484 434, 454, 16 INDEX history 374 (Kaz) 81 China 132, 296, 310-11, carpets & textiles 21, 123, 367-8, 482, 484 information 382-3 Chorsu Bazaar 399, 446-7, 15 Friendship Bridge

Uz) 146-7  A-C) sights 374-7 customs 153, 400-1 Fergana (Uz) 165 (Uz) 226 travel to/from 383-4 workshops 179, 198,  Green Bazaar (Taj) 317 Iran 405, 484 travel within 384 209-10 Green Market (Kaz) 59 Irkeshtam Route museums 191, 374-5 Asrlar Sadosi Festival 24 (Kyr) 310 Ishkashim (Taj) 348 car travel 482-3, 486-7 Astana Day 103 issues 298 Istaravshan (Taj) 334 cell phones 18, 476 Astana (Kaz) 12, 22, Kazakhstan 132-3, 226, Jahon Bazaar (Uz) 168 98-106, 100-1, 2, 311, 406 Central Asia highlights Kumtepa Bazaar 8-9, 8-9 12, 23 Kyrgyzstan 132-3, 226, (Uz) 167-8 accommodation 103-4 310-11, 368 Central State Museum Osh Bazaar (Kaz) 56, 67 drinking & nightlife 105 Mongolia 133 (Kyr) 244, 292 Central Tian Shan (Kaz) festivals & events 103 Qolma (Kulma) Pass Özgön (Kyr) 289 77-8 food 104-5 (Taj) 367-8 Panchshanbe Bazaar ceramics 168, 179, see Russia 132, 134-5, 482-4 information 105 (Taj) 335 also tiles Tajikistan 226-7, 295-6, sights 98-9, 102-3 Shahriston Market museums 168 311, 348, 352, 356, tours 103 (Uz) 198 366-8 workshops 179 travel to/from 105-6 Shakhristan Market Turkmenistan 133, 227, chabysh 306 travel within 106 (Kaz) 80 404-6 Char Minar (Uz) 194 At Chabysh 353 Tezykovka Bazaar Torugart Route Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 77 At Chabysh Horse (Uz) 154 (Kyr) 310-11, 284 Chatyr-Köl (Kyr) 285 Festival 25 Urgut (Uz) 181, , 4 21 Uzbekistan 133, 226-7, children, travel with 463-4 ATMs 471 Zelyony (Tur) 387 311, 368, 406 Chimbulak (Kaz) 71-3 Atyrau (Kaz) 134-5 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 Western Europe–Western China Ayni (Taj) 329-30 Belogorka Waterfall China Highway (Kaz) border crossings 132, (Kyr) 252 Azerbaijan 134, 482 296, 310-11, 367-8, border crossings 484 beshbarmak 465 bride kidnapping 301 482, 484 visas to 129, 224, 403 Bibi-Khanym Mosque brucellosis 492 relations with 412, 413, (Uz) 173 budget 19, 53, 138, 229, 430 bird watching 46, 73, 313, 371 visas to 34, 129, 224, B 85, 86, 107, 126, 186, Bukhara (Uz) 11, 187-200, 308, 366 Babur, Zahiruddin 168, 258 , , 291-2, 418, 419 188-9 11 417 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 255-8, Bishkek (Kyr) 232-50, accommodation 195-7 256 Bactria Centre (Taj) 323 , , 234-5 240 250 activities 195 Chong Ak-Suu Valley Badai-Tugai Biosphere accommodation drinking & nightlife 198 (Kyr) 258 Reserve (Uz) 202 234-9 Chong-Kemin Valley Badakhshani rubies 348 festivals & events 195 activities 233 (Kyr) 253 bargaining 472-3 food 197 drinking & nightlife climate 18, 24-5, 18 Barskoön (Kyr) 270-1 242-3 history 187-9 Kazakhstan 52 Bartang Valley (Taj) 342-3 entertainment 243 information 198-9 Kyrgyzstan 228 bathhouses, festivals & registration 199 Tajikistan 312 see also springs events 233-4 shopping 198 Turkmenistan 370 Almaty (Kaz) 60-1 history 232 sights 189-95 Uzbekistan 137 Altyn-Arashan information 244-6 tours 195 climate change 480 (Kyr) 265-6 registration 245 travel to/from 199-200 community-based tourism Bishkek (Kyr) 233 shopping 244 travel within 200 15, 20, 47-8, 247, Bukhara (Uz) 195 Bukhara’s Jews 194 15 sights 232-3 see also homestays, Baykonur Cosmodrome tours 245-6 Burana Tower yurtstays (Kaz) 22, 34, 90 (Kyr) 252-3 travel to/from 246-9 Ecotourism Information bazaars 15, 21, 2, 15 travel within 249-50 business hours 19 Resource Centre Alamedin Bazaar visas 245 bus travel 482-3, 486 (EIRC) (Kaz) 68 (Kyr) 244 black market 223, 471 buzkashi 306, 440 Kochkor (Kyr) 277-8 Altyn Asyr Market Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 272-3 508 community-based tourism Dushanbe (Taj) 316-26, Uzbekistan 138 glossary 500-2 continued 318-19 Expo 2017 (Kaz) 105 glossary (food) 502-3 Kyrgyzstan 228 accommodation 317-20 Golden Man (Altyn Adam) Murgab Ecotourism activities 317 62, 103, 411 Association (META) drinking & nightlife 322 F Gonur Depe (Tur) 391 (Taj) 354 Fan Mountains (Taj) 15, entertainment 323 Gonur (Tur) 391 326-33, 328-9, 15

INDEX INDEX Nuratau-Kyzylkum food 321-2 Gozli Ata (Tur) 386 Biosphere Reserve felt rugs 279, 446-7, 15 history 316 Great Game 359, 422-3 (Uz) 186 Fergana (Uz) 164-7, 166 information 323 Great Horde 121, 416-17, Pamir Eco-Cultural Fergana Valley (Uz) 160-9, C-H registration 323 435  Tourism Association 160 (PECTA) (Taj) 47 shopping 323 Greig’s tulip 85 ,festivals & events 24-5  Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum Wild Nature (Kaz) 86 sights 316-17 469, 470 (Uz) 174 Zerafshan Tourism tours 323 buzkashi 440 Gutlug Timur Minaret Development travel to/from 323-5 Kazakhstan 126, 127 (Tur) 16, 395, 16 Association (ZTDA) travel within 325-6 (Taj) 333 Kyrgyzstan 233-4, 258, 307, 308 Conolly, Captain Arthur 192 Turkmenistan 401-2 H consulates, see embassies E Haft-Kul (Taj) 333 & consulates economy 408-9, 430, Uzbekistan 176 health 490-4, see also courses 233, 323, 470 see also individual Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144 dangers, safety craft 447 countries Fine Arts Museum, heli-skiing 45, 159, 305 credit cards 471-2 Ecotourism Information Resource Centre (EIRC) Semey (Kaz) 117 hepatitis 492 culture 22, 435-41 (Kaz) 68 folk art 446 hiking, see trekking Culture Ministry Antiques electricity 465, 473 food 465-9, 502-3, Hissar (Hisor) Fort Certification Office see also individual (Taj) 326 (Uz) 153 embassies & consulates Kazakhstan 124-6 locations history 410-30, see also currency 18, see also food glossary 502-3 individual countries budget, money, Kyrgyzstan 306-7 individual locations Tajikistan 364-5 fortresses History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan customs 464 Turkmenistan 401 ancient Khorezm (UZ) 202 (Uz) 144 cycling, see mountain Uzbekistan 221-2 Bukhara (Uz) 193 hitching 487 biking emergencies 19, 495-6 Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3 HIV 492 emergency numbers Hissar (Hisor) Fort homestays 15, 20, 50, Kazakhstan 127 D (Taj) 326 462-3, see also Turkmenistan 382 dangers, see also health, Hulbuk Fortress-Palace community-based safety Uzbekistan 154 (Taj) 341 tourism, yurtstays Kazakhstan 67 environment 455-60 Istaravshan (Taj) 334 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 86 Kyrgyzstan 244, 305 environmental issues 422, Khaakha Fortress Tajikistan 363-4 459-60 (Taj) 349 Arslanbob (Kyr) 287-8 Turkmenistan 382, 401 Aral Sea (Kaz) 92, Khiva (Uz) 205-6 Jizeu Valley (Kyr) 342-3 459-60 Uzbekistan 221 Khojand (Taj) 335 Kochkor (Kyr) 277 Kazkhstan 124 Darshai (Taj) 349 Merv (Tur) 390 Kyrgyzstan 247, 304 Kumtor Gold Mine 303 Darvaza Gas Craters Mizdakhan (Uz) 214 Naryn (Kyr) 282-3 Kyrgyzstan 303 (Tur) 22, 385 Sauran (Kaz) 89 Nuratau-Kyzylkum nuclear testing 115-16, Biosphere Reserve Dashogus (Tur) 396 Wakhan Valley (Taj) 13, 118-19, 459 (Uz) 186 Dawn of Freedom 350, 4 Semey (Semipalatinsk) Pamirs, the (Kyr) 338 Monument (Kaz) Yamchun (Zulkhomar) (Kaz) 116, 118-19 Penjikent (Taj) 333 59-60 Fort (Taj) 349 Tajikistan 362 Sayram-Ugam National documents 125, 464 Friendship Bridge (Uz) 226 Turkmenistan 400 Park (Kaz) 87 Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12 Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich Tajikistan 312 Dostoevsky Museum Erk Kala (Tur) 390 232-3 (Kaz) 116, 421 ethnic minorities 439 horse racing 61, 83, Dostoevsky, Fyodor etiquette 469 306, 382 116, 420 events, see festivals & G horse riding 43, 87, 114, dragon horses 413 events GAI 482 124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 324-5, 377 drinking 467-8 exchange rates Garm (Taj) 324-5 horses, see also horse Kazakhstan 53 gay travellers 469 racing, horse riding Kyrgyzstan 229 GBAO permit 339, 366, 367 geography 455-6 Akhal-Teke 377, 399-400 Map Pages 000 Tajikistan 313 geology 456 domestication 411 Photo Pages 000 Turkmenistan 371 giardiasis 493 dragon 413 509 festivals 24, 353 K parks & reserves 52 Kuhna Ark (Uz) 205-6, 2-3 Przewalski’s horses 123, Kadji-Sai (Kyr) 272-3 peoples 122, 435-6 Kulob (Taj) 341 263, 458 Kalon Minaret (Uz) 11, permits 53, 129 Kumtepa Bazaar (Uz) 167-8 sports 25, 306, 440 20, 192, 11 planning 52-3 Kumtor (Kyr) 270 Karaganda (Karagandy) politics 119-20 kumys 468 I (Kaz) 108-11, 109 public holidays 127 Kunanbaev, Abay 117, 120 ice skating 71-2 Karaganda Ecological registration 127-8 Kurchatov (Kaz) 34, 118-19 INDEX Museum (Kaz) 109 Ichon-Qala (Uz) 20, 205 religion 123 kurutob 321 Karakalpakstan 22, 210-15 IGPA (Issyk-Köl Guides safety 128 kymys, see kumys Porters Karakol (Kyr) 258-64, 260, telephone services 127, Kyrgyzstan 50, 228-311,  H-K & Association) 263 266-7 128-9

 230-1 Ile-Alatau National accommodation tourist information 68 accommodation 228, Park (Kaz) 73 259-62 travel seasons 52 304 immigration 478 activities 259 travel to/from 131-3 arts 302-3 Independence Square drinking & nightlife 262 travel within 136 border crossings 132-3, (Tur) 374 food 262 visas to 53, 130-1, 224, 226, 310-11, 368 India 308-9 information 262-3 309, 403 climate 228 insurance shopping 262-3 volunteering 131 community-based car 482-3 sights 258-9 weather 52 tourism 228, 247, 15 health 490 travel to/from 264 Kazakhstan Independence costs 229 travel 470 travel within 264 Day 25 customs 305 internet access 470, Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7 Kazarman (Kyr) 282-3 dangers 244, 305 see also individual Karakul (Taj) 356 Khan, Abylay 107-8 drinking 303-4 locations Karakum Desert Khan, Chinggis (Genghis) economics 299 internet resources 19, 53, (Tur) 384-5 120-1, 397, 416-17, 428 embassies & consulates 127, 138, 229, 313, 371, Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77 Konye-Urgench (Tur) 306-7 408, 490 Karkara Valley (Kyr) 258 16, 394 environment 303 tours 488 KarLag Museum Merv (Tur) 389 exchange rates 229 train travel 484 (Kaz) 111-12 Otrar (Kaz) 87 festivals & events 258, Iran Kazakhstan 49, 52-136, Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 98, 12 287, 307, 308 border crossings 405, 54-5, 76 Khan’s Palace (Uz) 161-2 food 303-4 484 accommodation 124 Khiva (Uz) 12, 203-10, , highlights 230-1 visas to 224, 309, 403 204 activities 124 2-3, 12, 424 history 299-301 Irkeshtam Pass architecture 52 internet access 307 (Kyr) 310 accommodation 207-8 arts 123 internet resources 229 Isfandiyar Palace drinking 208-9 (Uz) 207 border crossings 132-5, entertainment 209 itineraries 229 226, 311, 406 Isfara (Taj) 337 food 208-9 language 497 climate 52 Ishkashim (Taj) 348-9 history 203-4 money 308 costs 53 Iskander-Kul (Taj) 326-8 information 210 peoples 301-2, 436-7 culture 122 Islam 414, 442-5 shopping 209-10 permits 34, 229, 308 customs 124 Istaravshan (Taj) 334-5 sights 204-7 planning 228-9 dangers 67 politics 299 itineraries 26-30, 26-30 tours 207 drinking & nightlife 127 Kazakhstan 53 travel to/from 210 public holidays 308 economy 119-20 Kyrgyzstan 229 Khojand (Taj) 335-7, 336 registration 308 embassies & consulates Khorezm (Uz) 22, religion 302 Tajikistan 313 124-6 200-10, 201 safety 305 Turkmenistan 371 environment 123-4 Uzbekistan 138 Khorog (Taj) 343-7, 344 tourist information 245, exchange rates 53 263, 295 Kochkor (Kyr) 276-8, 277 festivals & events travel seasons 228 Kokand (Uz) 161-4, 162-3 126, 127 travel to/from 309-11 J Kök-Jaiyk (Kyr) 268-9 Jafr (Taj) 325 food 127 travel within 311 Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7 Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 288-9 highlights 54-5 visas to 129, 224, 229, Köl-Ükök (Kyr) 278 jekai 254 history 120-2 308-9, 403 Konye-Urgench (Tur) 16, Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 267-70 internet access 127 weather 228 393-6, 16 Jewish quarters internet resources Kyrgyzstan Independence Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve 53, 127 Day 25 Bukhara (Uz) 194 (Kaz) 107 itineraries 53 Kyz Kala (Tur) 390 Samarkand (Uz) 175 Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 284 language 496-7 kyz-kumay 306 Jizeu Valley (Taj) 342-3 Köw Ata Underground money 127 Lake (Tur) 385-6 Kyzylorda (Kaz) 90-1 510 L malaria 492 Yasaui (Kaz) 88, 17 Jami Mosque Museum labour camps Manas Air Base 299 Medeu (Kaz) 71-3 (Uz) 163 Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 media 221, 473 Jome Mosque (Uz) 168 Malinovka (Kaz) 106 maps 471 medical services 491-2, see Juma Mosque, Khiva (Uz) 206 labour camps continued Marco Polo sheep 362, 456 also emergencies Juma Mosque, Tashkent Spassk (Kaz) 112 Margeb (Taj) 329 medressas 453

INDEX INDEX (Uz) 147 laghman 465 Margilon (Uz) 167-8 Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (Uz) 192 Kalon Mosque (Uz) 192 Lake Burabay (Kaz) 107-8 markets, see bazaars Allakuli Khan Medressa Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191 Lake Issyk-Köl Mary Regional Museum

L-M (Uz) 206 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7  Northern Issyk-Köl (Tur) 386-7 Islom-Hoja Medressa Narbutabey Mosque

Mary (Tur) 386-8, 387 254-70  (Uz) 207 (Uz) 162 Southern Issyk-Köl mausoleums 453 Kulkedash Medressa Nur Astana Mosque 270-3 Abdul-Aziz Baba (Uz) 147 (Kaz) 99 lakes (Kaz) 85 Mir-i-Arab Medressa Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97 Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329 Abu Bakr Kaffal (Uz) 192-3 Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95 Haft-Kul (Taj) 333 Shoshi (Uz) 147 Mohammed Rakhim Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97 Kara-Kul (Taj) 356 Al-Hakim al-Termizi Khan Medressa (Uz) 184 mountain biking 43-4, 72, Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7 (Uz) 206 263, 287 Aristan-Bab (Kaz) 87 Köw Ata Underground Nadir Divanbegi mountaineering 44-5, 77, Aysha-Bibi (Kaz) 81 Lake (Tur) 385-6 Medressa (Uz) 191 78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, Lake Burabay (Kaz) Babazha-Khatun Registan (Uz) 171-3, 21 305, 329, 363 (Kaz) 81 107-8 Sahib Mian Hazrat Moynaq (Uz) 214-15 Bibi-Khanym Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr) Medressa (Uz) 163 Mug Teppe (Taj) 334 253-73 Mausoleum (Uz) 173 Ulugbek Medressa Muqimi, Mohammedamin Chashma Ayub Lake Sarez (Taj) 343 (Bukhara, Uz) 191, 417 163 Mausoleum (Uz) 193 Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14, Merv (Tur) 388-91 Murgab Ecotourism Dauitbek (Kaz) 80 273-6, 14 minarets 453, see also Association (META) Ozero Bolshoe Almatin- Dorut Tilyovat (Uz) 182 mosques (Taj) 354 skoe (Kaz) 73 Gozli Ata (Tur) 386 Burana Tower Murgab (Taj) 353-5 Lake Sarez (Taj) 343 Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum (Kyr) 252-3 Museum of Fine Arts Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14, (Uz) 174 Gutlug Timur Minaret (Tur) 374 273-6, 14 Il-Arslan (Tur) 395 (Tur) 16, 395, 16 museums & galleries Langar (Taj) 350-1 Ishratkhana Mausoleum Kalta Minor (Uz) Afrosiab Museum language 495-503 (Uz) 175-6 206, 2-3 (Uz) 174 courses 233, 323, 470 Ismail Samani Kalon Minaret 11, Aktau regional museum Mausoleum (Uz) 193 Pamiri 361 20, 192, 11 (Kaz) 93 Karakhan (Kaz) 80 legal matters 470 mines Amir Timur Museum Karashash-Ana (Kaz) 85 leishmaniasis 492 ruby 348 (Uz) 183 Khazrati-Imam Complex gold 270, 303 Carpet Museum lesbian travellers 469 (Uz) 182 Mizdakhan (Uz) 214 (Tur) 374-5 Letters of Invitation 32-3, Kokand (Uz) 162 367, see also permits, mobile phones 18, 476 Central State Museum Mazor-i-Sharif (Taj) 331 (Kaz) 56 registration, visas money 18, 19, 53, 138, 223, Kazakhstan 130 Mirali Bobo (Kaz) 85 229, 313, 371, 471-3 Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 116, 421 Kyrgyzstan 309 Mohammed ibn Zeid moneychanging 472 (Tur) 390 Fayzulla Khojaev House Tajikistan 367 Mongolia Nejameddin Kubra (Uz) 194 Turkmenistan 404 border crossings 132 (Tur) 394 Fine Arts Museum of Mongols 120-1, 299-300, Uzbekistan 225 Pahlavon Mahmud Uzbekistan (Uz) 144 389, 394, 416-17 literature 408, 413, 447-9, Mausoleum (Uz) 207 Historical-Cultural- mosques 452-3, 477, see see also individual Rabigha-Sultan Ethnographic Centre also minarets countries Begum (Kaz) 89 (Kaz) 88 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 Lyabi-Hauz (Uz) 189-90 Sheikh Massal ad-Din History Museum of the (Taj) 335 Bibi-Khanym Mosque People of Uzbekistan (Uz) 173 Sheikhantaur (Uz) 144 M Central Mosque (Kaz) 60 Karaganda Ecological Madiyan Valley (Taj) 355 Mausoleum Complex (Uz) 139 Hazrat-Hizr Mosque Museum (Kaz) 109 Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191 Sultan Sanjar (Tur) 390 (Uz) 175 Karakol regional Sultan Tekesh (Tur) 395 Hazroti Imom Friday museum 259 mosque (Uz) 147 Tomb of the Old KarLag Museum Map Pages 000 Testament Prophet Hilvet (Kaz) 89 (Kaz) 111-12 Photo Pages 000 Daniel (Uz) 174-5 Hoja Zayniddin Mosque Kazakh Museum of Folk Two Askhab (Tur) 390 (Uz) 195 511 Musical Instruments (Taj) 316 activities 292 Navoi Park (Uz) 147 (Kaz) 57 National Nuclear Centre drinking 293-4 Panfilov Park (Kaz) 57 Kazakhstan History (Kaz) 118 food 293-4 Park Zhastar (Kaz) 113 Museum (Kaz) 102 national parks & reserves history 289, 291 photography 473 Kazakhstan Museum of 52, 458, see also parks information 294-5 passports 125 Arts (Kaz) 57, 59 & gardens shopping 294 Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297

Konye-Urgench Museum Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature INDEX (Tur) 394 Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, sights 291-2 PECTA (Pamirs Ecotourism 126 travel to/from 295-6 Association Information Kyzylorda regional Centre) 346 museum (Kaz) 90 Ala-Archa State Nature travel within 296 Penjikent (Taj) 331-4, 331 M-P Moyie Mubarek Library Park (Kyr) 251-2 Osman Quran 147, 445 Otrar (Kaz) 87 people 435-41

 Museum (Uz) 147 Altyn-Emel National Museum of Applied Arts Park (Kaz) 78 Ozero Bolshoe permits 31-4, see (Uz) 207 Badai-Tugai Biosphere Almatinskoe Area also visas, Letters of Invitation, registration Museum of Carpets Reserve (Uz) 202 (Kaz) 73-5 (Uz) 191 Burabay National Özgön (Kyr) 289 Kazakhstan 53, 129 Museum of Fine Arts Nature Park (Kaz) Kyrgyzstan 229, 305, (Tur) 374 107-8 308 Museum of the First Chong-Kemin Valley P Pamirs, the (Taj) 339, painting 449-50 President (Kaz) 103 (Kyr) 253 346 Pakistan 224 Museum of Victims of Ile-Alatau National Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297 Political Repression Park (Kaz) 73 Palace of Independence Tajikistan 313, 366 (Kaz) 82 Karakol Valley (Kaz) 99, 102 Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, National Museum, (Kyr) 266-7 Palace of Peace & Accord 7, 14 Ashgabat (Tur) 375 Korgalzhyn Nature (Kaz) 99 trekking 41-2 National Museum, Reserve (Kaz) 107 Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Turkmenistan 371, 403 Association (PECTA) Dushanbe (Taj) 316 Nuratau-Kyzylkum Uzbekistan 138, 224 Biosphere Reserve (Taj) 47 National Museum petroglyphs 411 of Antiquities of (Uz) 186 Pamir Highway (Taj) 17, Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Tajikistan (Taj) 316 Sayram-Ugam National 351-6, 5, 17 Reserve (Kaz) 85 Presidential Cultural Park (Kaz) 86-7 Pamiri people 361 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 256 Centre (Kaz) 103 Tajik National Park Pamirs, the (Taj) Langar (Taj) 350-1 Rishton Ceramic (Taj) 346, 354, 356 23, 338-56, 340-1 Museum (Uz) 168 Ugam-Chatkal National Bartang Valley 342-3 Nurata (Uz) 186 Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283 Rudaki Museum Park (Uz) 158-60 Khorog 343-7, 344 Tamgaly (Kaz) 78 (Taj) 332 Zapadno-Altaysky Murgab 353-5 (Western Altay) Petropavlovsk (Petropavl) Savitsky Museum Pamir Highway 17, 20 Nature Reserve (Kaz) 135 (Uz) 211-12 351-6, 5, 17 (Kaz) 114 planning Shymkent regional permits 339, 346 museum (Kaz) 82 natural reources 430 activities 40-6 planning 339 State Historical Navrus 24, 470 budgeting 18-19 registration 346 Museum (Kyr) 232 Nazarbaev, Nursultan calendar of events 24-5 Shokh Dara Valley State Museum of 119-20, 122 347-8 Central Asia basics 18-19 Fine Arts (Kyr) 232 Niyazov, Saparmyrat travel to/from 338-9 Central Asia regions Taraz regional museum (Turkmenbashi) 398 49-50 (Kaz) 79 Nodira 164 travel within 338-9 climate 18-19, 18 Termiz Archaeological nomadic empire 411 Wakhan Valley (Taj) community-based Museum (Uz) 183-4 13, 348-51, 4, 13 nomads 22 tourism 47-8, 15 music 448, 449 noz, see nasvai parks & gardens, see also national parks internet resources 18-19 nuclear testing 116, 118-19 & reserves itineraries 26-30, 48, N Nukus (Uz) 210-14 Botanical Gardens 26-30 Namadgut (Taj) 349 Nurata (Uz) 186-7 (Taj) 317 Kazakhstan 52-3 Naryn (Kyr) 280-2, 281 Nuratau-Kyzylkum Central (Gorky) Park Kyrgyzstan 228-9 Biosphere Reserve nasvai 465 (Kaz) 60 Tajikistan 312-13 (Uz) 186 nasvar, see nasvai City Park (Kaz) 98 travel seasons 18-19, naswar, see nasvai Dubovy (Oak) Park 24-5 National Museum, O (Uz) 232 Turkmenistan 370-1 Ashgabat (Tur) 375 opening hours 19 Independence Park Uzbekistan 137-8 National Museum, opium 358 (Tur) 375 plov 150, 465 Dushanbe (Taj) 316 Osh Bazaar (Kyr) 292 Kok-Tobe (Kaz) 57 police 125 Levoberezhny Park National Museum of Osh (Kyr) 289-96, 290 politics 408-9, see also (Kaz) 113 Antiquities of Tajikistan accommodation 292-3 individual countries 512 population 409, see Rushan (Vomar) (Taj) 342 Sheikhantaur Mausoleum festivals & events 365 also individual Russia Complex (Uz) 139 food 321, 362-3 countries border crossings 132, ship cemetery highlights 314-15 postal services 473 134-5, 482-4 Kazakhstan 91 history 358-60 Presidential Cultural language 495-6 Uzbekistan 215 internet access 365 Centre (Kaz) 103 relations with 121-2, Shokh Dara Valley internet resources 313

INDEX INDEX Przewalski, Nikolai 259, 203-4, 217-18, 299, (Taj) 347-8 263 itineraries 313 300, 359-60, 397-8, Shymkent (Kaz) 81-4, 82 Przewalski’s horses 123, 421, 423-9, 443-4 language 498 shyrdaks 279, 446-7, 15 263, 458 visas to 129, 224-5, 309 Letters of Invitation 367 P-T silk factory (Uz) 167-8  Pshart Valley (Taj) 355 literature 363

,Silk Road, the 20, 421  public holidays 469 money 365 431-4, 484, 432-3, 412 Kazakhstan 127 S people 13, 360, 361, 437 safety 19, 474-5, see Skazka Valley (Kyr) 272 permits 34, 313, 366 Kyrgyzstan 308 also dangers, health slavery 203 planning 312-13 Tajikistan 365 Kazakhstan 128 snow leopards 457 politics 356-8 Turkmenistan 401-2 Kyrgyzstan 244, 305 snow sports 45, 46, 71-2, public holidays 365 Uzbekistan 222 Tajikistan 363-4 159, 267, 287, 305, 326 registration 366 Turkmenistan 382, 401 Sokuluk Canyon (Kyr) 252 safety 363-4 Uzbekistan 221 Soviet Union, see Russia Q telephone services 366 Qolma (Kulma) Pass 367-8 sailing 93, 255, see also Spassk (Kaz) 112 tourist information rafting Quran 442-3, 445 sport 306 346, 354 Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283 qymyz, see kumys springs, see also travel seasons 312 Samanid dynasty 120, 217, bathhouses travel to/from 366-8 358, 414 Bibi Fatima Springs travel within 368, 369 R Samarkand (Uz) 11, 169-81, (Taj) 349 visas to 130, 225, 309, rabies 492 170-1, 10-11 Chashma Spring 313, 367, 403 rafting 44, 114, 159, 233, accommodation 176-8 (Uz) 186 305, see also sailing weather 312 drinking 178-9 Madiyan (Taj) 355 Rang-Kul (Taj) 355 wildlife 362 festivals & events 176 State Historical Museum Rasht Valley (Taj) 324-5 Tajikistan Independence food 178-9 (Kyr) 232 Registan (Uz) 20, 171-3 Day 25 history 169-70 State Museum of Fine registration 473, see Arts (Kyr) 232 Tamchy (Kyr) 255 information 180 also Letters of Stoddart, Colonel Tamga (Kyr) 270, 271 registration 180 Invitation, permits, Charles 192 Tamgaly petroglyphs shopping 179 visas street names, 57, 233 (Kaz) 78 sights 170-6 Ashgabat (Tur) 383 Sufism 444-5 Taraz (Kaz) 79-81, 79 tours 176 Bishkek (Kyr) 245 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97 Tashkent (Uz) 139-58, travel to/from 180-1 Bukhara (Uz) 199 Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1 142-3, 157, 159 Kazakhstan 68, 127-8 travel within 181 accommodation 147-9 Kyrgyzstan 308 Sarvoda (Taj) 328-9 drinking & nightlife 152 Pamirs, the (Taj) 346 Sary-Mogol (Kyr) 296-7 T entertainment 152-3 Tajikistan 50, 312-69, Samarkand (Uz) 180 Sary Tash (Kyr) 296 food 150-2 314-15 Tajikistan 323, 366 Sarytag (Taj) 327-8 history 139 accommodation 312, Turkmenistan 383, 402 Sauran (Kaz) 89 363 information 154-5 Uzbekistan 155, 222-4 Savitsky Museum activities 363 registration 155 religion 408-9, 414, 442-5, (Uz) 211-12 arts 360-2 shopping 153-4 see also Islam, Sufism, Sayram (Kaz) 84-5 sights 139, 144-7 individual countries Sayram-Ugam National border crossings 226-7, 295-6, 311, 348, 352, tours 155 responsible travel 473-4 Park (Kaz) 86 356, 366-8 travel to/from 155-7 Ridder (Kaz) 114 sea travel 484 climate 312 travel within 157-8 Rishton (Uz) 168 Semey (Semipalatinsk) costs 313 visas 155 road names 57, 233 (Kaz) 115-18, 116 culture 356-8 Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20, rock climbing 44-5, 251, Seven Bulls (Kyr) 268 dangers 363-4 284-5, 16 297, 305 Shah-i-Zinda (Uz) 20, 173, drinking & nightlife taxis 158, 487 Roof of the World 10-11 362-3 tea 469 Festival 25 Shaimak (Taj) 355 economy 356-8 telephone services Shakhrisabz (Uz) embassies & consulates 18, 475-6, see also 181-3, 182 364-5 individual locations Shakhty (Taj) 355-6 Map Pages 000 environment 362 Termiz Archaeological Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97 Photo Pages 000 exchange rates 313 Museum (Uz) 183-4 shashlyk 465 513 Termiz (Uz) 183-6 train travel 483-4, 488-9 Saparmyrat) 398 Samarkand (Uz) 170, textiles, see carpets transport 478-89, see also Turkmenbashi (Tur) 385 173, 174, 175 & textiles individual countries Turkmenistan 50, Shakhrisabz (Uz) Tian Shan Astronomical travel documents 125, 464 370-406, 372-3 181-3, 182 Observatory (Kaz) 73-4 travel insurance 470 accommodation underground mosques Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, 7 travellers’ diarrhoea 493 370, 400 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 tiles 451, 454, see also travel seasons activities 400 Hilvet (Kaz) 89 INDEX ceramics Kazakhstan 52 arts 399 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 Timur (Tamerlane) 49, Kyrgyzstan 228 border crossings Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97 417-18, 445, 451-2 Tajikistan 312 133, 227, 404-6 Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95  T-U Konye-Urgench (Tur) climate 370 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97

 Turkmenistan 370 16, 394 Uzbekistan 137 costs 371 Unesco World Heritage Otrar (Kaz) 87 travel to/from Central Asia customs 400-1 Sites 452 Samarkand (Uz) 478-85, see also dangers 382, 401 Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135 11, 173, 174 individual countries, drinking & nightlife Urgench (Uz) 200-2 Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-2 visas 400 Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21 Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90, travel within Central Asia economics 396-7 Ust-Kamenogorsk Timurid dynasty 417-18 19, 485-9, see also embassies & (Oskemen) (Kaz) tipping 472-3 individual countries consulates 401 112-15, 112 Letters of Invitation, toilets 476 environment 399-400 Uzbekistan 49, 137-227, permits, registration Torugart Pass (Kyr) exchange rates 371 140-1 trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 40-3, 284, 310-11, 284 festivals & events accommodation 137, 221 14, 15 Tosor (Kyr) 271-2 401-2 activities 221 Ala-Archa Canyon tourist information 476, (Kyr) 251 food 370, 400 arts 220 see also individual highlights 372-3 black market 223 locations Almaty (Kaz) 74-5 history 397-8 border crossings Kazakhstan 68 Altay Mountains (Kaz) 111 internet access 402 133, 226-7, 311, 368, Kyrgyzstan 245, 263, internet resources 406 295 Arslanbob (Kyr) 287 371 climate 137 Tajikistan 333, 346, 354 Central Tian Shan (Kaz) 78, 272-3 itineraries 371 costs 138 Uzbekistan 180, 210 Dushanbe (Taj) 317 language 498-9 dangers 221 tours 488 Fan Mountains literature 398 drinking 220-1 Almaty (Kaz) 61, 68-9 (Taj) 15, 327 media 400 economy 215-17 Altay Mountains Jafr (Taj) 325 money 402 embassies (Kaz) 111 Karakol (Kyr) 266-7, peoples 399, 437-8 & consulates 221-2 Aral Sea (Uz) 212 268-9 permits 371, 403 environment 220 Aralsk (Kaz) 91 Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77 planning 370-1 exchange rates 138 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95 Kyrgyzstan 305 politics 396-7 festivals & events 222 Bukhara (Uz) 195 Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) public holidays 401-2 food 137, 220-1 Darvaza Gas Craters 14, 273-5 highlights 140-1 (Tur) 385 registration 383, 402 Naryn (Kyr) 282 history 217-20 Dolinka (Kaz) 112 religion 399 Tajikistan 363 internet access 222 Dushanbe (Taj) 323 safety 401 Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, internet resources 138 Khiva (Uz) 207 telephone services Ugam-Chatkal National 383, 402 itineraries 138 Korgalzhyn Nature Park (Uz) 158-9 Reserve (Kaz) 107 tours 402-3 language 499 Zapadno-Altaysky travel seasons 370 media 221, 307 Kurchatov (Kaz) 118-19 (Western Altay) travel to/from 404-6 money 222 Kyrgyzstan 245-6 Nature Reserve Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7 (Kaz) 114 travel within 406 people 18-19, 219, 438-9 Samarkand (Uz) 176 Zerafshan Mountains visas to 130, 225, 371, 403, 404-5 permits 138, 224 Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283 (Taj) 327 weather 370 planning 137-8 silk factory 167 tuberculosis 492 Turkmenistan politics 215-17 Spassk (Kaz) 112 TUK (Trekking Union of Independence Day 25 public holidays 222 Turkmenistan 402-3 Kyrgyzstan) 245-6 typhoid 492 registration 222-4 wildlife 126, 356 Turabeg Khanym Complex (Tur) 394-5 religion 219 Yangykala Canyon (Tur) 386 Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90, U safety 221 , Zapadno-Altaysky 88 17 Ugam-Chatkal National telephone services 224 (Western Altay) Turkmenabat (Tur) 392-3, Park (Uz) 158-60 travel seasons 137 Nature Reserve 392 Ulugbek 418 travel to/from 225-7 (Kaz) 114 Turkmenbashi (Niyazov, Bukhara (Uz) 191 travel within 227 514 Uzbekistan contiinued to Tajikistan 309 W Yasaui, Kozha Akhmed visas to 130, 138, 224-5, to Uzbekistan 309 Wakhan Valley (Taj) 84, 87-8 309, 366, 403 visas (Taj) 130, 225, 309, 13, 348-51, 4, 13 Yasaui Mausoleum weather 137 313, 367, 403, see also Wakhani, Mubarak (Kaz) 15, 88, 17 Uzbekistan Independence Letters of Invitation, Kadam 350 Younghusband, Francis Day 25 permits, registration waterparks, see 422-3

INDEX INDEX to Afghanistan 352, 366 also amusement parks yurtstays 15, 20, 463, see to China 366 Almaty (Kaz) 60 also community-based V tourism, homestays to Uzbekistan 366 Dushanbe (Taj) 317 vaccinations 491 Kyrgyzstan 228, 304

,U-Z visas (Tur) 130, 225, 371  vegetarians & vegans Nurek Reservoir 403, 404-5, see also (Taj) 326 Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14, Letters of Invitation, 274-5, 14 469 ,321  weather 18, 24-5, 18 video 473 permits, registration Nurata (Uz) 186 Kazakhstan 52 visas 18, 31-4, see also to Afghanistan 403 Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20, Kyrgyzstan 228 individual countries, to Azerbaijan 403 284-5, 16 Letters of Invitation, Tajikistan 312 to Iran 403 permits, registration Turkmenistan 370 to Kazakhstan 403 visas (Kaz) 53, 130-1, 224, Uzbekistan 137 Z to Kyrgyzstan 403 309, 403, see also Western Europe–Western Zapadno-Altaysky (Western to Tajikistan 403 Letters of Invitation, China Highway (Kaz) Altay) Nature Reserve permits, registration to Uzbekistan 403 134, 482 (Kaz) 114 to Azerbaijan 129 visas (Uz) 130, 138, 224-5, wildlife 24-5, 456-8 Zerafshan Mountains 309, 366, 403, see also (Taj) 326-33 to China 129 Kazakhstan 123, 126 to Kyrgyzstan 129 Letters of Invitation, Zerafshan Tourism permits, registration Kyrgyzstan 303 to Russia 129 Development to Afghanistan 224 Tajikistan 362 Association (ZTDA) to Tajikistan 130 to Azerbaijan 224 Turkmenistan 399-400 (Taj) 333 to Turkmenistan 130 to China 224 Uzbekistan 220 Zerafshan Valley (Taj) to Uzbekistan 130 to Iran 224 Wild Nature (Kaz) 86 330-1 visas (Kyr) 129, 224, 229, women travellers 477 Zhungarians 419-20 308-9, 403, see also to Kazakhstan 224 Zong (Taj) 350 Letters of Invitation, to Kyrgyzstan 224 work 477 permits, registration to Pakistan 224 Zoroaster 391 Zoroastrianism 391, 444 to Afghanistan 308 to Russia 224-5 Y to China 308 to Tajikistan 225 Yagnob Valley (Taj) 329 to India 308-9 to Turkmenistan 225 Yamchun (Taj) 349 to Iran 309 volunteering 131, 476 Yamg (Taj) 350 to Kazakhstan 309 Vrang (Taj) 350 Yangykala Canyon to Russia 309 (Tur) 386

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 519

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving/Snorkelling Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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