© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 553 Index women in 68 money 129 ABBREVIATIONS women travellers 493 shopping 139-40 ACTKaz AustralianKazakhstan Capital Afrosiab (U) 245 travel agencies 130-1 Territory Kyr Kyrgyzstan agriculture 56-7 travel to/from 140-1 NSW New South Wales Taj Tajikistan AIDS 533 travel within 141-2 NT Northern Territory Tur Turkmenistan air travel 515-21, 524-5 walking tour 133-4, 133 Qld Queensland U Uzbekistan airlines 516-17 Al-Qaeda 473 SA South Australia Afg Afghanistan airports 516 Altay Mountains (Kaz) 188-9 Tas Tasmania environmental issues 517 altitude sickness 535 Vic Victoria fares 519, 525 Altyn Arashan (Kyr) 326-7 WA Western Australia A safety 518 Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 148-9 Abay Museum (Kaz) 189-90 tickets 517-18 amin, the 90 Abay State Opera & Ballet Theatre to/from Central Asia 515-21 amoebic dysentery 534 (Kaz) 138 within Central Asia 524-5 amusement parks 153, 164, 221, 435 Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (U) 259 Aitmatov, Chinghiz 82, 294, 296, 319 ancient Khorezm (U) 270 Abrashim Qala (Taj) 410 Ak-Baital (Taj) 416 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394 Abylay Khan Residence Museum Ak-Balyk (Taj) 412 Andijon (U) 239-40 (Kaz) 182 Ak-Jilga (Taj) 412 animal market (Kyr) 322 Abylkayyr Khan 46 Ak-Sai (Kyr) 335 animals 96-8, see also individual accommodation 496-8, see also Ak-Say Canyon 313, 11 species INDEX individual locations Ak-Saray Palace (U) 251-2 antelopes 124 Achaemenid empire 34-5 Ak-Suu (Kyr) 363 anthrax 534 Achik Tash (Kyr) 362 Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) Aral Sea 100-1, 163, 277, 280 activities 104-15, see also individual 98, 155-6 Aral Sea memorial (U) 281 locations & activities Aktau (Kaz) 167-70, 168 Aral, see Aralsk itineraries 33, 33 Ak-Terek (Kyr) 356 Aralsk (Kaz) 161-2 adventure travel agencies 113-15 Aktobe 163-5 Arasan Baths (Kaz) 133 Afghan Pamir 488-9 Aktyubinsk, see Aktobe archaeological sites Afghanistan 468-95, 470 akyns 82, 296 Afrosiab (U) 245 accommodation 490 Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 311-12 Ajina Teppe (Taj) 384 activities 490 Alamedin Canyon (Kyr) 312 ancient Penjikent (Taj) 394 arts 474-5 Alay Valley (Kyr) 361-3 Balasagun (Kyr) 314 border crossings 493-5 Al-Bukhari 250 Berel (Kaz) 189 climate 469 alcohol 88-9, 501 Besshatyr burial mounds (Kaz) costs 469, 492, 494 Alexander the Great 35, 206, 241, 256, 148 embassies 490-1 353, 355, 373, 384, 390, 393, 425, Bunjikath (Taj) 384 festivals 491 452, 487 Burana Tower (Kyr) 314 food 476 Alichur (Taj) 412 Dekhistan (Tur) 445 history 469-73 Alim Khan 268 Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454 information 477, 492 Al-Khorezmi 42 Elliq-Qala (U) 270 itineraries 29, 469, 29 Allakuli Khan Medressa (U) 273 Erk Kala (Tur) 452 safe travel 469 Almaty (Kaz) 126-42, 128-9, 143 Giaur Kala (Tur) 452 shopping 492 accommodation 134-6 Gonur Depe (Tur) 453 travel to/from 493-5 activities 133 Hulbuk (Taj) 384 travel within 495 attractions 131-3 Kara-Tepe (U) 255 visas 491, 493 drinking 137-8 Khan Dëbë (Kyr) 333 entertainment 138-9 Kobadiyan (Taj) 384 000 Map pages food 136-7 Koshkar Ata (Kaz) 170-1 000 Photograph pages history 126-7 Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 345 information 127, 129, 130 Kyz Kala (Tur) 453 554 INDEX (A-B) archaeological sites continued Babur’s Gardens (Afg) 479 Bishkek (Kyr) 298-311, 300, 312 Maghoki-Attar (U) 259 Bactrian Gold 79 accommodation 305-7 Merv complex 451-3 Badai-Tugai Nature Reserve (U) 270 activities 304 Sarazm (Taj) 384 Bakhautdin Naqshband Mausoleum attractions 302-4 Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 171 (U) 268 drinking 308 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 171 Bakiev, Kurmanbek 61, 294, 295 entertainment 308-9 Sultan Kala (Tur) 452-3 Balkanabat (Tur) 444-5 festivals 305 Takht-i Sangin (Taj) 384 Balkh (Afg) 487 food 307 Tamgaly petroglyphs (Kaz) 148 Balkhi, Lady Rabi’a 475, 487 history 298-9 Terekty petroglyphs (Kaz) 148 Balykchy (Kyr) 335 information 299, 301, 302, archaeology Bamiyan (Afg) 481-3 304 books 20, 76 Band-e Amir (Afg) 483 money 301 internet resources 34, 77, 84 Barchadiev (Taj) 408 shopping 309 architecture 76-9 Bardara (Taj) 408 tour agencies 304 Ark, the (U) 261-2 bargaining 506 tours 304 Arslanbob (Kyr) 352-4 Barskoön (Kyr) 330-1 travel agencies 302 arts 76-84, see also individual countries Barskoön Waterfall (Kyr) 330 travel to/from 309-11 akyns 82, 296 Bash Gumbaz (Taj) 412 travel within 311 books 76, 80 Basid (Taj) 408 Black Death 46 landays 475 bathhouses 133 black market 285 Manas epic 82, 296 Batken (Kyr) 363-4 boat travel 523 Ashgabat (Tur) 430-42, 432 Battle of Talas 41 Bodomdara (Taj) 408 accommodation 436-8 Baykonur Cosmodrome (Kaz) 159 body language 67 activities 436 bazaars Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 332-3 attractions 433-6 Almaty (Kaz) 139-40 Bolsheviks 53-4 drinking 439 Bishkek (Kyr) 303-4 books 20-2, see also literature & entertainment 439 Bukhara (U) 259 individual countries INDEX food 438 Carpet Bazaar (Afg) 479 archaeology 20, 76 information 431, 433 Chorsu (U) 218 architecture 76 money 431 Fergana (U) 236 art 76, 80 shopping 439-40 Jahon (U) 240 environment 99 travel agencies 433 Jayma (Kyr) 358 food 85, 86 travel to/from 440-1 Panchshanbe (Taj) 390 health 532 travel within 441 Shah Mansur (Green) (Taj) 385 Silk Road 21 Astana (Kaz) 172-9, 174-5 Tashkent (U) 226-7 travel 20-2 accommodation 177 Tolkuchka (Tur) 435 Bor Döbö (Taj) 416 drinking 178 Urgut 250-1, 8 border crossings 521 entertainment 178 Zelyony (Tur) 449-50 Afghanistan 493-5 food 177 Bazar-Dara (Taj) 412 Irkeshtam Pass (Kyr) information 172-3 beaches 168, 317, 325, 446 362 tours 176 Beket-Ata (Kaz) 170 Kazakhstan 200-1 travel to/from 178-9 Bekhzod National Museum (Taj) Kyrgyzstan 370-1 travel within 179 384 problems 527 At-Bashy (Kyr) 345 Berdymukhamedov, Gurbanguly 428, Tajikistan 421-2 ATMs 505 429, 442 tips 370 Atyrau (Kaz) 165-7, 166 Berel (Kaz) 189 Torugart Pass (Kyr) Aysha-Bibi Mausoleum (Kaz) 151 Bibi Fatima Springs (Taj) 410 346-8 Bibi-Khanym Mosque (U) 244 Turkmenistan 466-7 B bin Laden, Osama 60, 61, 473 Uzbekistan 287-8 Babazhi Katun Mausoleum (Kaz) 151 bird market 479 borders 392, 527 Babur 47, 240, 358 Birds of Prey Festival (Kyr) 332 bribes 193 birdwatching 98, 113 bride kidnapping 293 000 Map pages Kazakhstan 125, 130, 144, 179, British empire 50 000 Photograph pages 193 brucellosis 533 Uzbekistan 257, 259, 281 Buddha Niches (Afg) 482 INDEX (B-E) 555 Buddhist sites Chatyr Tash (Taj) 412 Dasht (Taj) 408 Afghanistan 481-3 chay 88 Dayahattin Caravanserai (Tur) 456 Tajikistan 410 Chicken Street (Afg) 479 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 532 Uzbekistan 254-5 children, travel with 498-9 Dekhistan (Tur) 445 Bukhara (U) 257-68, 260-1 Chimbulak (Kaz) 143-4 departure tax 518 accommodation 264-5 Chinese Mosque (Kyr) 322 diarrhoea 534 activities 263 Chinggis (Genghis) Khan 42-5, 119, Dinosaur Plateau (Tur) 456, 457 attractions 259-63 122, 156, 206, 212, 243, 246, 254, Dishon-Qala (U) 274 drinking 266 258, 261, 293, 425, 451, 457, 470, documentation 502 entertainment 266 482, 486, 487 Dorut Tilyovat (U) 252 festivals 264 Chokur-Kul (Taj) 410 Dostoevsky, Fyodor 189, 190 food 265-6 Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 316-18, 317 Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 190 history 257-8 Chong Ak-Suu Valley (Kyr) 318 dragon horses 40 information 258 Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 314 drinking 88-9, see also individual money 258 Chong-Tash (Kyr) 294 countries shopping 266-7 Chorsu Bazaar (U) 218 drinking water 535 tours 263-4 cinema 79-80 Dubovy (Oak) Park (Kyr) 303 travel agencies 258-9 Citadel (Afg) 485 Dungan people 67 travel to/from 267 climate 19, 499 Dushanbe (Taj) 381-9, 383 travel within 267-8 collectivisation 54 accommodation 385-6 Bulunkul (Taj) 411 communism 54 activities 385 Burabay National Nature Park (Kaz) Afghanistan 471, 472 attractions 382-5 180 Kazakhstan 120 entertainment 387-8 Burana Tower (Kyr) 314 Kyrgyzstan 293 food 386-7 Burnes, Alexander ‘Bukhara’ 50, Tajikistan 376 history 381 INDEX 471 Turkmenistan 427 information 382 bus travel 525-6 Uzbekistan 207 money 382 business hours 498 community-based tourism 106, shopping 388 buzkashi 64, 12 107 travel agencies 382 itineraries 32 travel to/from 388-9 C Kazakhstan 156, 181 travel within 389 cable cars 132, 385, 435-6 Kyrgyzstan 297 camel trekking 109, 114, 115, 256, Tajikistan 395, 414 E 270, 281, 414 Uzbekistan 257 eagle hunting 113, 331, 332, 12 car travel 526-7 Conolly, Arthur 264 Earthquake Memorial (U) 220 caravanserais 346, 456 corruption 501-3 Earthquake Museum (Tur) 434 Carpet Bazaar (Afg) 479 cosmodromes 159 ecotourism 23-4, see also community- Carpet Museum (Tur) 434 costs 19-20 based tourism carpets 81, 508 cotton production 56-7, 209 itineraries 32 Afghanistan 479, 492 crafts 508 Ekedeshik cave complex (Tur) 454 customs regulations credit cards 505 Eki-Naryn (Kyr) 343 (Turkmenistan) 461 crime 501 electricity 500 Kyrgyzstan 309 Crimean Congo haemorrhagic fever Elliq-Qala (U) 270 shyrdaks 309, 339, 508 534-5 Emir’s Summer Palace (U) 268 Turkmenistan 434, 435, 439-40, cross-country skiing 112 Engels Peak (Taj) 408 455 culture 69-70 environmental issues 99-103, see Uzbekistan 226, 249, 266, 276 customs regulations 499-500, see also individual countries cave paintings 415 also individual countries Afghanistan 476 Central Kyrgyzstan 335-48, 336 cycling 110 air travel 517 Central Tian Shan (Kaz) 148 Aral Sea 56, 100-1 Central Tian Shan (Kyr) 333-5 D books 99 ceramics 226, 239, 249 Dari language 542-3 internet resources 99, 100, chaikhanas 89 Darvaza (Tur) 442 102 Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 147 Darvaza Gas Craters (Tur) 442 Kazakhstan 124-5 Chashma Spring (U) 256 Dashogus (Tur) 459-60 Kyrgyzstan 297-8 556 INDEX (E-H) environmental issues continued Hissar (Taj) 389 health 530-6 overgrazing 102 Kafir-Qala (Taj) 411 heli-skiing 112 poaching