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2020 SPRING SUMMER 2020 5 6 7 Paglia Donna / Woman’s Straw Hats 16 Paglia Uomo / Man’s Straw Hats 28 The Bogart by Borsalino 42 Tessuto / Fabric 46 8 9 Borsalino: 160 Anni di Storia Il 4 aprile 2017 Borsalino, la più antica manifattura italiana tutti: Humphrey Bogart e Ingrid Bergman nell’indimenticabile specializzata nella produzione di cappelli di lusso, ha festeggiato scena finale di “Casablanca”. Quello con la settimana arte è un il suo 160° compleanno. In occasione dell’anniversario, il Ministero rapporto speciale e destinato a durare a lungo: oltre a Bogart per lo Sviluppo Economico del Governo Italiano ha riconosciuto e alla Bergman, portano un Borsalino Jean Paul Belmondo in Borsalino tra le eccellenze del sistema produttivo nazionale, “Fino all’ultimo respiro”, Marcello Mastroianni in “8 e 1/2” e Tony dedicandole un francobollo del valore di € 0,95. Servillo ne “La grande bellezza”, premio Oscar 2014. Soprattutto, la manifattura di Alessandria concede l’uso del proprio nome La storia a 2 pellicole cult degli anni Settanta: “Borsalino” e “Borsalino & Il 4 aprile del 1857 Giuseppe Borsalino avvia ad Alessandria Co”. L’idea è di Alain Delon e Borsalino accetta a patto che sulle un piccolo laboratorio artigianale per la produzione di cappelli locandine appaia il logo dell’azienda. in feltro. I primi macchinari li acquista in Inghilterra negli anni Così Borsalino, attraversando la rivoluzione dei costumi, arriva Sessanta dell’Ottocento. Nel ventennio a cavallo dei due secoli ai giorni nostri restando fedele a un processo produttivo che, ottiene il Grand Prix all’Exposition Universelle di Parigi, un attestato tramandato di generazione in generazione, rappresenta il valore internazionale di qualità, e inaugura una nuova manifattura, le più culturale dell’azienda. I cappelli Borsalino continuano a essere grande di Alessandria, oggi sede dell’Università e del Museo del prodotti ad Alessandria coniugando prospettiva industriale e Cappello Borsalino. spirito artigianale: per i modelli in feltro sono necessari più di 50 A partire dagli anni Venti del Novecento l’azienda, passata nel passaggi manuali e 7 settimane di lavorazione; la realizzazione frattempo agli eredi di Giuseppe, cresce soprattutto nel mercato dei modelli in paglia, intrecciati manualmente, può richiedere fino statunitense, dove i cappelli prodotti ad Alessandria vengono a 6 mesi per ogni singolo cappello. indossati dallo star system hollywoodiano. Un fotogramma su 10 11 Borsalino: 160 Years of History On 4th April 2017 Borsalino, the oldest Italian company in the unforgettable last scene of “Casablanca”. The relationship specialised in making luxury hats, celebrated its 160th birthday. with the world of cinema is a special one which was destined to To mark this anniversary, the Italian Ministry for Economic last: as well as Bogart and Bergman, Borsalinos were worn by Development has recognised Borsalino as an example of Jean-Paul Belmondo in “Breathless”, Marcello Mastroianni in national excellence, dedicating a € 0.95 stamp to the company. “81⁄2” and Tony Servillo in the 2014 Oscar-winning “The Great Beauty”. Above all the Alessandria brand allowed its name to be The company’s history used in 2 cult films of the Seventies: “Borsalino” and “Borsalino On 4th April 1857 Giuseppe Borsalino opened a small artisanal & Co”. The idea was Alain Delon’s, and Borsalino accepted on workshop in Alessandria to make felt hats. He bought his first condition that the company’s logo featured on the films posters. machinery from England in the 1860s. In 1900 he was awarded And so Borsalino, which has gone through a cultural revolution, the Grand Prix at the Paris Exposition Universelle, an international has reached our era staying faithful to a production process certification of quality, and a new workshop was inaugurated, the that has been handed down from generation to generation largest in Alessandria which now hosts the University and the and reflects the company’s cultural values. Borsalino hats are Borsalino Hat Museum. still made in Alessandria and combine craftsmanship with an From the 1920s onwards, the company which was at these times industrial approach: over fifty steps, done by hand over seven in the hands of Giuseppe’s heirs, grew mainly in the USA, where weeks, are needed to make a felt hat; straw hats are hand woven, hats made in Alessandria were worn by Hollywood stars. An and some hats can take up to six months to make. image encapsulates it: Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman 12 13 Collezione Collection Il cappello come simbolo culturale, codice comunicativo, segno di Hats are a cultural symbol: a form of communication, a sign of appartenenza e sintesi di stile. L’estetica intesa come necessità in belonging and an embodiment of style. Aesthetics understood un serrato dialogo tra passato e futuro, tra sogno e realtà. C’è tutto as a necessity, it is a close dialogue between the past and the questo nella collezione SS 2020 di Borsalino liberamente ispirata future and between dreams and reality. The Borsalino SS 2020 dall’Arts and Crafts, il movimento artistico nato in Inghilterra alla collection incorporates all of this, drawing inspiration from the fine del XIX secolo che segna l’inizio del ceto medio e la nascita Arts and Crafts Movement that appeared in Britain at the end of del design. the 19th century, marking the rise of the middle class and the birth of design. Rafia crochet, panama dipinti a mano, mix di intrecci di canapa e cotone, treccia carta, quindi denim oltre a tutte le finezze di The collection features over 160 models with leading materials Panama e Montecristi si alternano in 160 spettacolari modelli. such as: crochet Raffia; hand-painted Panama hats; and an innovated selection of mixed fabrics like plaited hemp/ cotton, Insomma il mondo in testa e poi nel cappello. braided paper, and denim; as well as the range of classic Panama and Montecristi pieces. In short, there’s a whole world in your head that you can now wear with your hat. 14 15 Paglia Donna Woman’s Straw Hats 16 17 Model code: 232203 Model code: 232217 Model code: 232210 Model code: 232157 Quito Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band Braided straw. Boater model. Grosgrain band with Braided straw. Wide brim model. Brooch. Parasisal. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band with with floral tiara. brass tiara. Cords. bow. 0001 0002 7292 7781 18 19 Model code: 232201 Model code: 232200 Crochet raffia. Rollable wide brim model. Leather Crochet raffia. Rollable edged wide brim model. band with button. Two-tone grosgrain band with button. Patch. 7143 7143 Model code: 232191 Braided raffia. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band with brass brooch. Model code: 232216 Braided raffia. Baseball model. Three patches. 20 21 Model code: 232205 Model code: 232204 Model code: 232179 Model code: 232160 Quito Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band Two-tone Quito Panama. Wide brim model. Braided straw. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Semi-crochet Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain with bow. band. 7141 7145 7141 7144 7145 7142 7145 7149 Model code: 232199 Model code: 232193 Torcido Panama. Wide brim model. Jacquard band Braided straw. Wide brim boater model. Grosgrain with floral patterning. band. 7143 7461 7351 22 23 Model code: 232163 Model code: 232206 Braided hemp. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Braided hemp. Medium brim model. Grosgrain band. 7531 8671 7791 8671 Model code: 232194 Model code: 232188 Braided cellulose fiber. Rollable wide brim model. Braided straw and grosgrain. Rollable wide brim Two-tone grosgrain band with button. model. Two-tone grosgrain band with button. 7021 7391 7581 0001 0005 Model code: 232202 Braided hemp. Visor with edged brim and rear elastic band. 8671 24 25 Model code: 231979 Model code: 232184 Fine Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Fine Panama. Wide brim model. Jacquard band with floral patterning. 0002 0021 7143 7144 Model code: 232044 Model code: 231991 Fine Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Fine Panama. Medium brim model. Grosgrain band. 0001 0002 0025 0031 0003 0025 0027 Model code: 232171 Fine Panama. Free brim model. Grosgrain band. 0002 0026 0027 26 27 Paglia Uomo Man’s Straw Hats 28 29 Model code: 140270 Model code: 140271 Montecristi Panama. Rollable colonial model. Fine Montecristi Panama. Rollable colonial model. Grosgrain band. Grosgrain band. 7123 0015 Model code: 140283 Model code: 140281 Extrafine Montecristi Panama. Free brim model. Fine Montecristi Panama. Free brim model. Grosgrain band. Grosgrain band. 7121 30 31 Model code: 140338 Model code: 140339 Model code: 140340 Model code: 140261 Fine Panama. Medium brim model. Grosgrain band. Extrafine Panama. Medium brim model. Grosgrain Fine Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Fine Panama. Small brim model. Grosgrain band. band. 7123 0014 0025 0028 0031 0014 0010 0026 7123 0026 Model code: 140341 Model code: 141154 Extrafine Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain Fine Panama. Medium brim model. Jacquard band band. with floral patterning. 7121 0015 0001 32 33 Model code: 141163 Model code: 140060 Two-tone Quito Panama. Wide brim model. Quito Panama. Medium brim model. Leather band. 0001 0004 0002 7141 7391 7611 Model code: 141170 Model code: 141171 Braided hemp. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band. Braided hemp. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band with brass brooch. 7523 Model code: 141156 Quito Panama. Wide brim model. Grosgrain band with brass brooch. 34 35 Model code: 141157 Model code: 141158 Braided hemp. Small brim model. Grosgrain band. Braided straw. Small brim model. Grosgrain band. Patch. 7021 7882 7142 Model code: 141106 Model code: 141168 Semi-crochet Panama. Medium brim model. Crochet raffia and braided cellulose fiber. Medium Grosgrain band. brim model. Jacquard band with zebra-striped. Model code: 141159 Model code: 141166 Braided straw. Medium brim boater model. Torcido Panama. Small brim model. Jacquard band Grosgrain band. with floral patterning.
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  • ELIZABETH ZANONI Old Dominion University

    ELIZABETH ZANONI Old Dominion University

    232 • Italian American Review 8.2 • Summer 2018 from its otherwise brilliant treatment of cuisines made possible by circulating people and food. —ELIZABETH ZANONI Old Dominion University Borsalino City. By Enrica Viola. Una Films, 2016. 78 minutes. Streaming format, color. Enrica Viola’s Borsalino City is a fascinating and much-needed documentary about the history of the renowned hat company—a tale of feuding cousins, calculated brand development, and the power of cinema. The birthplace of this global brand was the Italian city of Alessandria (Piedmont region), and its father was Giuseppe Borsalino. Borsalino City moves chronologically through the company’s history, which began in 1857 after its founder returned from apprenticing at Berteil, the famed Paris-based hatmaker. Giuseppe and his brother Lazzaro caught fashion and fortune at just the right time. Their hats became wardrobe staples of the elite, topping the heads of kings and statesmen literally around the world. Quality was Borsalino’s calling card. In order to expand, they diversified their offerings and audience, sent salesmen around the world, won prizes at the world’s fairs, and built an enormous factory in Alessandria. Borsalino cleared the way for “Made in Italy” to dominate the luxury goods market. The story of the company itself is upstaged by amazing archival footage of factory life and by oral histories of laborers, taken in the mid-1950s. The main strength of the movie is the richness of these historical sources. The stories of the people themselves, their feelings about their work, and their respect for the leaders of the firm paint a picture of a company town where the workers actually liked the bosses.