SANTIAGO DE CHILE Rev

IMPRENTA UNIVERSITARIA.—ESTADO 63.—SANTIAGO DE CHILE Rev. James F. Garvin, Chile, 1884 - 1923. Twixt the Andes and the Sea.

YEfi R BOOK

THE PRESBYTERIfiM MISSION

in CHILE.

SANTIAGO DE CHILE IMPRENTA UNIVERSITARIA ESTADO, 63

1924 FOREWORD

The completion of the Canal and the lure of southern seas and strange cities has brought an ever-increasing stream of visitors to the countries lying south of Panamá. People are interested in seeing Guayaquil, from which yellow fever has been effectually banished; Callao, with its San Lorenzo raised over night from the deep; Lima and the oldest University in the western hemisphere; La Paz, in its matchless setting. But after experienc- ing all these thrills, Buenos Aires beckons, and Chile too often serves only as a narrow vestibule between Valparaiso and Mendoza. From the ship in the bay, Valparaiso presents an attractive amphitheatre, but its steep hillg do not tempt the passing visitor to a closer acquaintance, and a half- day is as much as he can spare. Santiago, nestled among its snow-clad mountains, may detain him as long as three days, but Chile—the real Chile, — 6 — north and south, with its mighty deserts threaded by nitrate deposits and copper veins, its great central valley lush in pastorage and dotted by thousands of grazing herds—Chile with its 2 600 miles of coast-line and busy ports remains little more than a name on the map for the casual tourist. For those who are interested in this beautiful and promising country this little book is written. It presents the undertakings and achievements during the year 1923, of the Presbyterian Mission in its endeavour to help in the solution of Chile's problems and in the development of its rugged citizens. 1. THE CHILEAN SAHARA

1. The Nitrate Ports and Their Source of Supply

Coming south from Panamá, the first glimpse of the snow-clad Andes is had from Arica, the first of the Chilean ports, and which is visited by the big liners and the little coast-boats alike. It stands out in the memory of the casual visitor as the last place blessed with verdure until he nears Valpa- raiso. Not every visitor is favored with a glimpse of the volcano Caplina and her sister peaks, for nine times out of ten they are completely veiled by heavy-hanging mists. Changing here to a coast- boat, we come next day to Iquique, the first of the large nitrate ports. Sodium nitrate and copper are the life of these barren parts, and the field for Christian Missions widens or contracts according to the world market The North Field. 9 — for these commodities. At the present time nitrate is looking up. The sale for the year ending June, 1922, according to official reports was 600,000 tons, while that for the year ending June, 1923, was 2.100,000. In all consuming countries except Ger- many and Austria there has been a heavier sale than ever, showing that synthetic nitrate has not stolen the market from the Chilean product. This, taken with the fact that present stocks are low, means that there must be increased production to meet the demand. This is seen to be the case in our field and thousands of laborers are coming into the pampas * and many oficinas * are beginning work again. Copper also is doing a little better throughout these parts, and adds its quota to the total of activity. In the division of territory between the Metho- dist and Presbyterian Missions, which are the only ones working in the north of Chile, the ports of Iquique, Antofagasta and Coquimbo, fall to the former, while we Presbyterians occupy the ports of Tocopilla, Taltal, Chanaral and Caldera w'th their adjacent territory, which includes many large nitrate plants scattered through the pampa. TOCOPILLA is the first port south of Iquique and enjoys the distinction of possessing the electric power plant which supplies the great Chuquica- mata copper mines, far away in the montains, on

(*) Pampas—nitrate fields; Oficina—nitrate plants. — 10 —

the borders of Bolivia. It is a picturesque little town with its American settlement out on the point, and its railway into the desert zigzagging up apparently inaccessible cliffs.

Oficina.

Here there is a small Chilean congregation in charge of a young licentiate, who, in addition, acts as pastor of two other groups in the Oficinas Rica Aventura (Good Luck) and Peregrina (Pilgrim), and visits some five others up and down the line. The accessibility to evangelical effort of this part of Chile is unlimited. Although the State Church claims this territory, like all the rest of Chile, as its 11 —

exclusive possession, in the Diocese of Antofagasta it maintains but five priests and twenty friars to work among a widely-scattered population of 221,000 (Sinopsis Estadística, 1921, pp. 4, 22), or one to each 9,000. As these figures clearly demonstrate, the State Church does not care adequately for this district, even supposing each priest and friar to be an earnest and worthy cure of souls.

In Operation.

The field is open to our fullest evangelistic effort. There is still much indifference and irreligión, but no persecution, and in most parts our work is well — 12 — received because people are beginning to see its fruits and to appreciate them. The great need of this district is a man who shall be free to give his whole time going from Oficina i

An Oficina Group. to Oficina, making friendly contacts and delivering the Gospel message personally. The Tocopilla Railroad would give such a man free use of its trains, and most of the Oficinas are glad to provide preaching-halls and electric light and free accom- modation for such workers. From any point of view the nitrate region offers more opportunity for Christian work this year than last. But our force remains the same, and it would seem that because — 13 — of purely physical limitations there is very little prospect of being able to extend our message to the thousands of souls brought to the nitrate fields by increased production. TALTAL is another nitrate port two days south of Tocopilla, and is the place of residence for the missionary in charge of the entire north field. Mr. Edwards spends most of his time in journeying from one part of his field to the other, which covers a distance of 400 miles. Coast-boats are capricious as to schedule, and the Longitudinal Railway, which is the interior connecting link, runs but two trains a week, which quite frquently spend as much time off as on the line! The local church in Taltal is in charge of a student under Mr. Edward's supervision,or, more truthfully, under that of Mrs. Edwards who, in the long absences of her husband, has to occupy every department of the work except the pulpit. Taltal also has its adjacent Oficinas, in two of which regular work has been established under the care of the local evangelist. A «Local Congress» was celebrated here in Fe- bruary, by naming two delegates from each branch of the church's activities, and meeting together for two hours during three successive nights to treat themes which had to do with the work of the church and the lives of its members. Among the topics were: The Day of Rest and How to Make the Best 14 —

Use of It; Legitimate Amusements; Good Books for Christians; Honesty in Your Work; What Cons- titutes a Divine Service; How to Increase the Attendance at Divine Worship. Each theme was presented in fifteen minutes by some member of the Congress and then the meeting was thrown open to the delegates. The treatment of the themes and the open discussions were far superior to what had been expected, and in spite of the fact that there were very sharp cleavages of opinion on some points, especially in the matter of Amusements, a good spirit was manifested throughout all the discussions. In CHANARAL, the next port south of Taltal, work depends upon the boat schedule. When this makes a visit possible, an attractive little chapel, owned by the English congregation, is put at our disposition, and the people, as in times of old, hear the Gospel gladly.

2. The Earthquake District

Still going south by boat, the next port is CAL- DERA, and here we enter the earthquake zone. There is no need to go into detail here about the earthquake of November 10, 1922, which delivered its hardest blows in the southern part of our north field around Copiapo and Vallenar, or about the accompanying tidal wave which wrought FO much — 15 — damage in Chañaral, Caldera, Huasco and Coquim- bo. Let us merely say that temporary relief was not slow in arriving, and our own U. S. A. had the honor of being among the first to lend a hand. Mr. Edwards and Mr. Spining (then President of

Earthquake Ruins. our Mission) participated in the relief work, meeting American cruisers in Huasco and Caldera, and assisting in the distribution of the relief they brought, especially among the members of our churches in Vallenar and Copiapo. Of course the living conditions of the whole — 16 — region have been affected. Thousands were left homeless and without work, and it may be stated on good authority that 40% of the population has definitely abandoned the locality, after waiting long in a vain hope that promises of reconstruction would be fulfilled. Naturally this exodus has reduced the size of our work. In addition, the grippe returned to scourge these parts and greatly impeded the activities of our churches. But in spite of all this, the prospect is brighter, from a religious point of view, than last year, especially in Vallenar where the evangelical relief work contrasted so strikingly with the official misconduct of other relief committees, that our work and our people were carried several strides forward in public esteem. The number of people accessible is fewer, but the contact is better, and our workers have all that they can now handle. COPIAPO. The Railroad from Caldera to Copiapo was the first to be built in Chile, and the first locomotive run on it is one of the curiosities dis- played in the Quinta Normal in Santiago. Copiap6 was at one time the prosperous centre of a large mining district, but it is now very greatly reduced in population and activity. We have a church there in charge of a Chilean evangelist, who also visits the group in the port (Caldera) fortnightly. Copiapo and earthquake are synonymous to the people living there, for it is still shaking. But the — 17 — work is picking up gradually, and a remarkable number of soldiers from the barracks are attending the services. VALLENAR. Both Copiapo and Vallenar are on

Selling water in Taltal. the Longitudinal R. R., the latter some hours south. The Vallenar Church has had some very interesting experiences as a result of the earthquake. The town suffered even more than Copiapo, but our work there has gained in proportion. The rented building in which the congregation had been meeting for some years came down with the rest of the town, but the organ and other furniture were saved. While material was being collected for the erection of a temporary chapel of corrugated iron, meetings — 18 — were begun under a large walnut tree, and the attendance reached six times and more what it had been before. People who had been declared enemies of our work became our friends, because of the impartial relief afforded by our workers to all alike. The epidemic of grippe reduced these attendances and many of the members moved away, so that today finds an almost entirely new congregation, but double in size compared with the pre-earthquake group. A property in the town was acquired in a very good location, and the people are anxiously awaiting the day when they may worship in their own church. There is room on the site for a school also, and there is plenty of opportunity along that line. Very few of the government school buildings have been repaired, and almost all have failed to function during the year. In view of this, we have opened an «Escuela Popular» (primary school) in which one of the girls of the congregation, super- vised by the pastor's wife, acts as teacher. The little group at CHIGUINTO, sixty kilometres up the valley from Vallenar, has managed to keep together, although they have suffered sorely from the earthquake. The evangelist and his wife in Vallenar have done good work in this valley, and we hope to extend their influence by beginning very soon regular visitations to the towns lower down the valley, Freirina and Huasco, the port. II. CHILE'S CAPITAL

From Vallenar south we leave the deserts behind and enter a rich and fertile fruit-growing country. Two days on the Longitudinal R. R. (if we have good luck) will bring us to SANTIAGO, one of the most beautiful capitals of the world. Situated some 1 800 feet above sea-level and surrounded by snow mountains, with beautiful parks and public buildings, its atmosphere is a charming mixture of old- world tradition and modern alertness. Here the Presbyterian Mission established itself fifty years ago, and has had the joy of seeing its work broaden and deepen from year to year. This work is of several kinds. Through the Instituto Ingles and the dissemination of good literature in «El Sem- brador», it contributes to the educational life of Chile; through its Dispensary «Mother & Son» it applies a healing hand to the running sore of infant mortality; through its four organized churches, Sunday-schools, chapels, young people's societies and women's organizations, it preaches the simple Gospel and trains its youth in religious activities; through its Bible Seminary it is raising up a prepared evangelical ministry; and through its weekly — 20 — church paper, it instructs, inspires and stimulates the Christian life of the country. Let us consider each of these activities separately. 1. The INSTITUTO INGLES is entering upon a new

Instituto Inglés. period in its history under the leadership of Rev. Edward G. Seel. Established in 1874 in Copiapo by the well-known educator Mr. Samuel J. Chris- ten, it was removed to Santiago in 1877, and from the beginning it has rendered real service to the youth of Chile. Hitherto its grade has been that of an American Grammar and High School,'but the desirability of aligning it with the government schools of secondary grade, so that its graduates — 21 — may be able to continue their courses in the State University, has been increasingly apparent. By vote of the Advisory Committee, therefore, the change has been begun this year, introducing the State Course in the First and Second Interme- diate Classes, which are now known as the First and Second Humanities. It is proposed to continue this adjustment so as to bring the whole upper- school into line as soon as possible. We have been assured by the Pro-Rector of the University, by the Inspector of Liceos, and by an influential member of the Council of Public Instruction, that the government will grant us every facilty for the carrying out of our plan. The total enrolment this year has reached 196, bf whom 65 are boarders, 59 half-boarders, and 72 day-pupils. It is encourging to note that 52% of these are small boys in the Primary Department whom we may expect to keep under our influence for a number of years. Of the total enrolment 59% is of Chilean parentage, although twelve nation- alities are represented in the student body. 20% come from outside of Santiago. Moral and Religious Life. — The Bible is being used as the tex-bookin Sacred History in all the classes from Third Preparatory upward. Although the smaller boys were not required to purchase the Scriptures, many asked for permission to do so when they learned that the beautiful selections and — 22 —

stories treated in class were from the Book. The Gary Week-day Religious Education Series have been put into Spanish and used with very good results in the Primary Department. There has been no expressed opposition to our teaching of evangelical truth, and several boys of the upper classes show a marked comprehension of Christian principles. The regular activities of daily Chapel (led in turn by resident teachers) Y. M. C. A., Sunday-school and Sunday Vesper Service have been conducted as usual. Attendance at Chapel and Sunday-school is compulsory for all boarding- pupils, but only those who so desire attend the Sunday Vesper Service. Thus far there have been only three or four boys who have not cared to come. The claims of Christ on the individual life are constantly presented. As an indication of the influence of the Instituto Inglés in a strictly evangelical sense, mention may be made of the fact that when the Santiago City Young Men's Christ- ian Association desired to gather a nucleus of Christian men for the purpose of forming its active directorate, seven out of the thirteen chosen were alumni or teachers of the Instituto, only one missionary being among them. Under the auspices of the Instituto Y. M. C. A. a night-school is being successfully conducted in the Church of the Most Holy Trinity, boys of the Junior and Senior Classes acting as teachers. — 23 —

It is with satisfaction that we bear testimony to the Christian character of our Special Term Teachers, as well as to their conscientious service in the class-room and wherever called upon. The teachers engaged on the field, all Chileans, are also doing satisfactory work, although their attitude toward our evangelical aims and ideals is, of course, merely passive, and only in exceptional cases can they be called upon for service outside of their particular classes. The Instituto Ingles is looking forward with eagerness to the time when it may move its plant to a larger site on the outskirts of the city, which shall provide for extensive athletic grounds and more adequate equipment both for boys and staff. 2. «EL SEMBRADOR», the book-shop which we run in conjunction with the Methodist Mission, is the outcome of the colportage work begun by Mr. Garvin, of beloved memory. This shop now occupies a very central position just off the main Plaza in Santiago, and handles not only Bibles and religious evangelical literature, but textbooks both in English and Spanish, and good literature of all sorts. Since its establishment some five years ago it has had to weather many vicissitudes, owing to repeated changes of locality, but it is becoming widely known, and we believe that it has a future of great usefulness to the work. Rev. J. S. Smith is in charge. - 24 —

3. Our DISPENSARY «MOTHER & SON» (Louise McLean Memorial) is finishing the first year of its existence, having been opened on January 2nd. The need for this work in Santiago was so appalling —six out of ten babies in Chile die before reaching the age of two—that although the Board could not provide us with a property or give us any financial aid whatever, Santiago Station voted to begin and carry it on as a private enterprise, believing that the Anglo-Saxon community would rally to our aid. Owing to facilities afforded him as a Professor in the State University, Mr. McLean was able to purchase the property in his own name, making a small initial payment, the balance to be met by monthly payments for amortization and interest. As this sum is less than the rent of any other quarters obtainable, we are able to carry it out of monthly subscriptions, and expect eventually, perhaps through the generosity of some friend, to acquire the plant as Mission Property. Though our service is limited to mothers, and children up to three years of age, 1455 cases have been treated during the year, although up to the present we have been able to open but two afternoons a week. During November, 464 cases were treated, 728 separate prescriptions given out, 150 were bathed and 58 received injections. All sorts of diseases have been treated —.sore eyes, wounds, hernia, rickets, anemia, ecze- Louise McLean. — 26 — ma, bronchitis, pneumonia, indigestion and intes- tinal troubles. At least half of the cases show traces of venereal infections. Our staff is composed of a Superintendent (Mrs. J. S. Smith) one doctor,

Bathing the Babies. two nurses, a pharmacist and her assistant, a stat- istician, and a Bible woman. In addition we have some voluntary helpers who come regularly to bathe babies, assist the pharmacist in making up powders, 27 — label and cork bottles (all preemptions must be made up the same afternoon) make bandages, take temperatures, wait on the doctor and help with innumerable tasks. The Doctor, nurses and pharmacist receive a very small remuneration for their services. We owe no little debt of gratitude to American and English friends who have so faith- fully and gladly given of their time, strength and financial assistance. It has been most gratifying to see the way in which the women respond to kind and sympathetic treatment. Most of them have a fear and dread of the doctor and expect, from their experience in the city hospitals, harsh words and a rough hand. Many most pitiable cases come to us,' some of the babies reminding one of pictures of famine orphans. It is no longer a shock to give a three-months old baby its very first bath! The majority have some skin disease, some sign of bad blood—the innocent suffering for the sins of their fathers. It is to be hoped that some day in the not distant future we may have an evangelical hospital where our own people can be cared for and not suffer the inconvenience and persecution which they now have to undergo in the city hospitals, where nuns of the State Church are the only nurses, and all patients are obliged to go to confession. 4. CHILEAN CHURCHES. The average tourist, during the few days he spends in Santiago, is — 28 — charmed with what he finds—comfortable hotels, clean streets, good shops, beautiful buildings, well- dressed crowds, elegant automobiles, spacious parks, and the average Chilean he meets outdoing him in politeness, and good manners. He has seen hundreds of large and beautiful churches, he has passed hosts of priests, friars and nuns on the streets, and has had their fine convents and schools pointed out to him. Missionaries in this beautiful and progressive country? he asks: an insult! But he has seen only the outside of the platter. An American woman who had spent over a year in one of Santiago's fashionable hotels said, after her first visit to our Dispensary: «Why, I am sure I shall not sleep tonight: I had no idea such places, such people and such need existed in the city!» And there are many other conditions in Santiago which she has not yet seen which would rob her still further of her peace of mind. What the traveller fails to comprehend in his short stay is that the great State Church, with its unparalleled opportunities and splendid material equipment, untram- meled by lack of funds or workers, with the hearts of the people, until very recently at least, as wax in her hands, has bartered her birthright for the mess of pottage contained in material wealth and political power. Superstition and medieval prac- tices still prevail, and a man's life outside the walls — 29 — of the Church has little or no connection with his religion. The preaching of the Gospel in its purity and simplicity is what this people needs, but this is quite a different undertaking in a nominally

Taking St. Peter for a Ride on Talcahuano Bay.

«Christian» country from that where heathen idols are worshipped. The man in the street believes in Christ, but it is a dead Christ, utterly divorced in his mind from practical power in daily life. It is a slow and difficult task to make the Living Christ known. Four well-organized Chilean churches, — 30 — each with its own Chilean pastor, are dedicating themselves to this task. Their average schedule of activities would seem rather heavy perhaps to our home churches, and one participating in it is often

Conventillo. tempted to say it is too heavy, but it shows that they feel that no possible opportunity must be neglected. Sunday-schools, preaching-services, open-air meetings, special prayer groups, women's meetings, young people's societies, groups for evangelistic work, Bible instruction classes, mid- week meetings, cottage meetings, catecumen classes — Si - and occasional social gatherings for the young people, make up the ordinary activities of these churches.

The Open Sewer.

All but one occupy their own buildings, which are very plain structures seating from four to six hundred people. In comparison with the florid decorations of the average Catholic Church, they are painfully bare, looking more like mission halls than churchly edifices. It has been no doubt a mistake not to minister to the artistic sense of a beauty-loving people, but the problem has been to make the available funds cover the need. Which is — 32 — better—to build one beautiful Church or several plainer ones in different parts of the city?

Pastors of Santiago Churches.

The eldest of these churches is the Most Holy Trinity, with an actual membership of 110. Econ- omic conditions make frequent changes of residence — 33 — obligatory, and our churches suffer from a constant ebb and flow among members and adherents. It has a fine young pastor, Rev. Rogelio Aracena, who has given unusual proofs of leadership, and

Church of the Saviour. is prospering in all its departments. The youngest is the Church of the Saviour, with 78 members, Rev. Olivero Maufras, Pastor. The Church of the Redeemer is the only one which has its own in- stalled pastor, Rev. Enrique Krauss, with a membership of 150. The Christian Union Church is a small group which has passed through many vicissitudes but which seems to have entered upon a — 34 —

new era of activity in a new location in the midst of a thickly populated district, and with a young pastor just this year, graduated from the Bible Seminary, Sr. Eudoro Hernández. A flourishing

Arica Sunday-School. chapel in the large Arica district the other side of the Railroad, is in charge of one of the Seminary students and gives promise of being the nucleus for a fifth church. Open-air meetings are a popular form of preaching the Gospel which always gives good results. According to Chilean law, it is forbidden to «worship» in the open air, but any kind of a «conference» — 35 — may be given by anybody on street corners or in public parks, provided prayer be not offered, which is their interpretation of «worship». Even hymns may be sung without offense. But interruptions are frequent. A group was recently denounced by an irate gentleman who insisted that the policeman should take the speaker to headquarters. The officer did not much relish his task, but the whole group cheerfully accompanied their Pastor, who proceeded to interrogate the Commissioner. «Your Honor, is it permitted to give a conference in the open air, or is it not»? «Most certainly it is». «Then why am I arrested ?» «You are not arrested». «Then I have your permission to continue my speech»? «You have». (Turning to the chagrinned accuser) «Do you now understand, sir, that I was not violating the law? Well then, friends, let us go back and continue our meeting». Whereupon they all filed out, and the speaker took up the thread of his discourse where he had been interrupted. Another group the same afternoon, in quite another part of the city, found one of the elders of their church, who had been conspicuous of late by his absence, excavating on his newly-acquired property. In a matter-of-fact fashion they formed a circle about the hole in which the shamefaced elder found himself, and proceeded to sing and pray; after which they went on to hold their meeting in another place, leaving him to his confusion. But — 36 — the lesson was a wholesome one. Returning later, they found him awaiting them at the door of his house, where he confessed his coldness, his falling- away and his repentance. «It shamed me so to be found working on the Sabbath», he said «while my companions were preaching the Gospel, and I an elder, that I could not rest until I had confessed my sin». That night he again confessed at the church service and is now restored to all his formei activity. In September a Young People's Convention, with delegates from the Young People's Societies all over the country, was held in the Church of the Most Holy Trinity, with a large attendance and much enthusiasm. Reports were discussed and plans for the future outlined. 5. The BIBLE SEMINARY, as its name implies, prepares Chilean young men for the ministry of the national church. We are just completing the first decade of cooperative Seminary education with our brethren of the Methodist Episcopal Church. Relationships between the members of the Faculty and the students, and of the two church groups between themselves, have been extremely cordial and mutually helpful. A delightful-and stimulating atmosphere of confidence has prevailed, and no incident has occurred to mar the perfect harmony of the year. It has even been possible to conduct a friendly discussion of the relative truths of Calvin- — 37 — ism and Arminianism in mixed classes, so that our men are acquainted with these schools of thought, not as theological bogies, but as conscientious attempts to articulate systems of truth. Of our present staff of pastors, evangelists and local preachers, eight have taken the full Seminary course, eleven have already passed at least one year's examinations, while the remaining seven have been trained beside some missioary. The proportion of regularly educated ministers is steadily rising. Of this year's students, six are Metho- dists and five Presbyterians. Perhaps the best evidence of the Christian soli- darity of our students is afforded by their plan for an evangelistic tour of the churches at the con- clusion of their year's work. This campaign has been planned spontaneously and submitted in well- elaborated detail. They have presented a solid front as exponents of evangelical Christianity, have demonstrated the zeal and zest of discipleship, have appealed for recruits from among the youth of our churches, and have revived flagging interest in some of our smaller groups. And, best of all, several hundred decisions for Christ have been registered as a result of these meetings. The long-cherished dream of a Seminary building is now beginning to take tangible form, a property having been acquired by the two Missions, and the building is now in process of construction. The — 38 — neighborhood is a quiet and respectable one, and the lot contains 3,746 square metres—enough to provide for a commodious building, a tennis court, running-track and basket-ball area. The building will probably be ready for occupancy by the middle of 1924. 6. WORK AMONG STUDENTS. For years we have had a unique opportunity in the Normal School of the University. This Pedagogical Institute was founded in 1870 through the efforts of President Balmaceda as a co-educational training-school for high-school teachers. During the first decade attendance never passed 100, of whom only a small number were women, but today they number about 70% of the 1 280 students enrolled. Sectarian or even religious propaganda is barred from the recit- ations, but Rev. J. H. Mc Lean, Professor of English Literature, has entire freedom as to the choice of subject-matter and mode of presentation. Spiritual contacts must be sought in personal relationships with the students and through outside organizations. Many such are found in the Young Men's and Young Women's Christian Associations, whose slogan «Not Protestant but Christian» attracts many of the students. While these rally- ing-centres have detached themselves from the evangelical church in the matter of membership basis, they uphold new Testament ideals and foment Bible study among groups which we probably would — 39 — never reach through ordinary channels, and stress the practical phases of vital Christianity. The Chairman of Religious Work in the Y. M. C. A. is a third-year English student of the Institute, and the Assistant Secretary of the Y. W. C. A. is one of our graduates. The report of both of these student leaders was to the effect that their com- rades were hungry for spiritual truth. This is manifested by the interest in the Bible Classes held by Mr. Mc Lean in both associations during the year. The Methodist Student Hostel accom- modates over sixty girl students and Miss Smith receives a few in her home. All seem more accessible and more sympathetic to the Gospel than ever before. They are ready to listen to the Bible, especially to the teachings of Jesus which, in the final test, they prefer to the vapid mysticim of theosophy which has such a vogue among their class. 7. THE GENERAL OFFICE OF THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH IN CHII.E. On the termination of the two- year New Era Campaign at the end of 1922, it was believed that many of the New Era activities might be continued as a part of the general work, and the Mission voted to establish a General Office in San- tiago, with Miss F. E. Smiih in charge as Secre- tary. This office, together with the various offices of the Methodist Church, occupies the top floor of a down-town building, and a Committee of five, four of whom are Chileans, was named by Pres- bytery to assist Miss Smith, — 40 —

The first undertaking under the new regime was an Evangelistic Campaign through our south field before the winter rains set in. Three members of the Committee, all pastors of Santiago Churches,

Convention of Women. visited eight of the southern churches, and with the assistance of the various evangelists, held two evangelistic meetings in each place. They returned brimming over with enthusiasm and reported a goodly number of decisions for Christ. In continuation of the Study Courses followed by the various women's organizations last year under the auspices of New Era, the General Office has prepared and sent out monthly studies on — 41 —

«Character-Building in Childhood», being an adap- tation and translation of a book published by the National Welfare Association in the U. S. These studies have been taught by missionary women and pastors' wives in the different churches all over the country. The Studies for last year have been published in book form as a «Handbook for Mo- thers», and have met with considerable acceptation outside of evangelical circles. The Superintendent of Domestic Science in the Public Schools of San- tiago has put them into the hands of her teachers as a book of reference, and is also using the charts published last year for the Baby Welfare Campaign. An order for fifty hand-books for the public schools in the north has also been filled, and representa- tives of the National Red Cross and various Creches have become interested. Orders have also been received from Argentine and Colombia. Mr. In- man, during his visit to the Pan-American Confer- ence, ordered one-half of the edition of one thous- and to be sent to Mexico, Puerto Rico, Cuba and New York, together with one-third of a new edition of the Baby Charts, specially prepared for other countries. Other publications have been a book for girls «La Niña Buenamoza» and the third and fourth numbers of Studies for Young People's Societies, the latter in conjunction with the Me- thodists. Based upon information received through a — 42 —

Questionaire sent to all the Women's Leagues in the different churches, a Model Constitution was prepared with the object of securing some con- formity among them, which has been adopted by nearly all, thus preparing the way for the organ- ization of a National League of Presbyterian Women. This was accomplished on September 11th, with a very full representation of the women's organizations in Santiago. Since then the other organizations throughout the country have expressed their allegiance to this movement. Its object is to extend the scope of their activities in each congregation, and to engage them in work for the community, as well as the upbuilding of their own intellectual and spiritual life. The General Office serves as headquarters for the Missionary Library, the Library of National Workers, the Lantern Slide Committee, a Statistical Bureau of the Presbyterian Church in Chile, and as a place of meeting for the Administrative and Executive Committees, and the regular Workers' Monday Morning Prayer Circle. III. THE HEART OF CHILE

Those who live in Santiago, particularly members of Congress, are prone to consider the Capital the heart of Chile, but in truth that term should be applied to the great valley which stretches south- ward from Santiago for 500 miles. Well irrigated and fertile, an immense pasture and grain-growing land lies between the Andes and the coast range, and supplies crops and herds to feed all the rest of Chile. Here lie the great «haciendas» or ranches, owned by Chile's capitalists and worked by those unhappy humans, the «inquilinos» or serfs, while the lords of the manor make the laws and play with exchange in Santiago. Many very swift rivers cross this section at right angles, afford- ing in their rapid fall from the Andes to the coast unlimited water power, which has as yet scarcely begun to be utilized except for purposes of irrigation. In the distribution of mission work in Chile between the two principal Societies cooperating— Methodists and Presbyterians—this great central valley, from Santiago to Concepción, has been allotted to our church. Twenty-seven provincial capitals (of Departments), not including Santiago

— 45 — and Concepción, are easily accessible by rail in this section. The smallest of them have populations approaching 10,000 and the largest 40,000, and all are centres for a large adjacent rural district. In this territory which is exclusively Presbyterian, we have eight organized churches, in Rancagua, San Fernando, Curicó, Talca, San Javier, Parral, Chi- llan and Yungai, and this year have opened work in Rengo, Linares and San Carlos. But sixteen oi>her provincial capitals still await the first preaching of the Gospel. The reasons for this apparent neglect are various. We of course own no property in these unoccupied towns, for property costs money, and it is almost impossible to rent. In RENGO, for instance, where a Bible woman was sent to begin work last year, no place could be rented where she could live and hold meetings. This year a Chilean evangelist and his family went there in the hope of establishing a small school as an opening wedge, as one of his daughters was a gradute of the Escuela Popular in Valparaiso. A suitable property was rented, but before the evangelist could move his family, the owner, a woman, had changed her mind and decided not to rent to heretics. From that date, interested parties have been searching the town, and only last month was it possible to rent a storeroom and begin services. The people around the place were counting their beads, saying Ave Marias and burn- — 46 — ing incense to counteract the preaching of the Gospel, but the place is well filled, and there has been no disorder. LINARES is now occupied by the Bible woman who could find no foothold in Rengo, and weekly visits are made from Talca by members of that church. Although this is a towTn of some 20,000 inhabitants, and the capital of a large province, our efforts are limited to a preaching-place twelve feet square, at a cost of $ 1.50 per month, as our attempt to evangelize this territory for which our Mission has made itself responsible. Months of untiring effort have proved that we cannot rent suitable property. The only solution is to buy ground and build, placing a good man in charge, for there are many who sympathize with the Gospel who are not willing to go to a disreputable hovel in a back street. In SAN CARLOS, the financial necessity of an elderly woman, a retired public-school teacher, made it possible to rent a large front room in her house. She herself was frightened half out of her wits by her temerity in renting to Protestants, and her friends reasoned with her unceasingly. But the outcome has been contrary to the usual experience. A small window connected the chapel-room with an interior dark room, and there the poor old lady, attracted by the hymns (without organ accompan- iament) hid to listen to the terrible evangelicals; — 47 — greatly to her surprise she heard nothing which shocked her faith, and as her friends continued to protest at her action, she invited them to steal away to the dark room and convince themselves

An Evangelist's Family. that these people were not as the priest had painted them. Today she is a candidate for membership and an active propagandist of the Gospel. The work in this district, as far south as Linares, is in charge of Rev. and Mrs. C. M. Spining, who visit the various churches, inspiring the workers, preaching and giving conferences to the women, holding Workers' Institutes, etc. Returning for a moment to the consideration of the organized churches, RANCAGUA, in charge of the Rev. Celestino Villa, has been prospering this — 48 — year, due to his faithful work. The Sunday-school has doubled and financial support has increased. In addition to his pastoral duties in the town, Sr. Villa finds time to make frquent visits to the

Mining Comp. camps of the great Braden Copper Company at Sewell. There are over 9,000 people in these Camps. He gives a week to each of these visits, holding meetings in four camps, and receives a very en- couraging response. The Company gives him free passes over their railway, free entertainment and every facility for holding his services. Several large and needy towns on a branch Railroad are still untouched for lack of funds. — 49 —

The SAN FERNANDO church, in charge of an unordained evangelist, is outgrowing its rented quarters, and longs for the day when they may build a chapel on the central site which the Mission has been able to secure in the town. This church also is reaching out into the surrounding needy district, a visit having been made to San Vicente and Peumo. A member of one of the Santiago churches who has recently gone to Peumo, has placed his little property at the disposal of the work, but unfortunately there is no place in the town where the visiting workers may be entertained during their stay, and hotel bills are prohibitive. CURICO has been the residence of Mr. and Mrs. Spining for the past two years, and the church there rejoices in the possession of a very attractive and adequate new church building and social hall. This church has been established for some years, but frequent removals and the lack of a settled worker had reduced it to the lowest ebb. Now, however, it is frankly prospering, although the town is an exceedingly fanatical one, and many new young people are coming in. Two thousand pesos have been contributed this year toward self- support. A Chilean evangelist is in charge of the congregation. It has been impossible to rent property outside for meetings in other parts of the city, but several members have opened their homes for cottage meetings. — 50 —

The TALCA church is in the hands of a young pastor, Rev. Florencio Herrera, recently graduated from the Bible Seminary, and he and his young wife, who was a public school teacher, are bringing new life to the congregation and attracting quite a good many students. Besides the cottage meetings they conduct, the congregation has rented and furnished a preaching-place in a distant corner of the city, where they have begun a most promising work. Priests and friars are very numerous and active in that district, but we hope that the owner of the property may have courage to resist the pressure being brought to bear on him not to rent his property to evangelicals. This Church has a Christ- ian Endeavour Society, a Woman's League and a Young Men's Club. Out-of-door sports, social meetings, lectures on social welfare, and distribution of literature are included in their activities. The changed attitude of the country in general toward the Gospel is clearly illustrated in Talca. When work was begun there in 1898, only five persons, of whom three were members of the missionary family, attended Sunday-school. At a special meeting recently held in the church, which stands but a few yards away from the room where the work was begun, every seat was occupied and the people overflowed in aisles and vestibules. In the beginning, in a preaching-hall established in a store-room on the outskirts of the town, with twelve — 51 — people in attendance and a mob filling the streets outside, it required twenty-five policemen to main- tain order and escort the missionaries to safety after the meeting. A few days ago, meetings were held in the same vicinity,, the hall was filled to its fullest capacity, and the speakers listened to with the greatest respect and attention. When a few rioters appeared with empty kerosine cans, the police at their own instigation took them in charge and handled them in such a way as to discourage them from disturbing an evangelical service again very soon. In SAN JAVIER a ¿hurch has just recently been organized with twenty-five charter members. Here also the question of property was a burning one. The two rooms formerly occupied by the Bible woman were entirely inadequate for the large family of the evangelist Sr. Rosalino Castro, and he was almost in despair when the owner of the adjoining property offered to rent her house. It has the necessary space for the chapel and workers' residence, with spacious grounds for garden and fruit trees in the rear, and all for the same rent paid for the other two little rooms. Sr. Castro is very happy in his family who are of great help to him particularly his two daughters who know how to play and sing, and who are ready for every good work. The southern half of this field—Parral, Chilian,

— 53 —

Yungay and Concepción—is in charge of Rev. A. W Stevenson, with residence in the latter city. In his Annual Report, Mr. Stevenson says: The net gains in membership of the churches and groups in this section during the past year would not indicate a prosperous year, neither would they truly indicate the real work done, owing to the fact that all the churches have lost through removals at least an equal number to the gains in new people. The Parral church lost its treasurer, who was also an elder, with his family of boys, and another very active young man, through re- moval to Santiago. Chillán, the church with the largest gains last year, has lost fully forty members and adherents. Yungay had a promising group for a catecumen class, which has all left town for lack of employment. Concepción has a group of young men won through street preaching who have not yet been received into the church, but whom we hope to receive very soon. Yet the outlook is far from discouraging. Every- where hostility is changing to toleration or even sympathy. The liberal elements which control politics in this part of Chile are looking with more favor on the work of the evangelical churches, so that now the great obstacle to be overcome is not hostility but indifference. The Chilean masses are losing the sense of any spiritual need. For a «fies- ta» or entertainment, or for a lantern lecture, any 54 — evangelical building can be packed to capacity, but the next night for a preaching-service will find a mere handful. Moreover there appear to be two other difficulties in the way of building up strong, permanent con- gregations. One is a certain lack of persistence and initiative on the part of the pastors and workers; the other is the natural inconstancy of the Chilean church-member. The Chileans love to organize new things, but lack the cooperative spirit necessary to the carrying out of a program. These things, taken together with the indifference and the mis- understanding of the nature of the Church in the large towns where we have work, may to some extent explain the slow progress. And yet more doors are open to our work than we can enter, and new opportunities are constantly appearing, especially in the smaller towns. In a small place, the opening of a chapel means more than in a larger town, and there is. more opportunity for one of our workers to fill a vital place in the life of the community. Perhaps the most striking example of this is TRUPAN, a small country place on a branch railroad, a foisaken little town typical of, or even better than, hundreds throughout the country districts, with no grocery or drygoods store, except a small shop or two, no drug store, no industry, no social life, and inadequate and very poor schools, whose teacher is often — 55 — drunk, or absent without cause. In this town, though the only work has been done by two families and a monthly visit of the wrorker from Yungai, we could step in and take over the moral, social

Yungay. and spiritual life of the whole town and surrounding districts. The priest visits there but once a year, and that once, since we happened to be there at the same time, he saw his faithful coming from the mass, where he had been denouncing us, to fill to overflowing the small space and windows of the room where we hold our meetings. By establishing a small day-school we could win the active support of t,he District Judge and all the other better elements of the town. — 56 —

An opportunity equal to this is also open to us throughout the country districts, the interior

Women Spinning. towns, and on the «fundos» or large ranches. The country-folk are in the main a simple-hearted, — 57 — sturdy lot. In riding along a country road and talking with one of them, if one mention the name of Jesus, almost invariably the man's hat will come off in a funny little awkward act of reverence. But

Congregation in Yungay. they are bound to the Church of Rome more by a superstitious fear than by any real loyality, for it is in the country where one sees the priests at their worst. They are accustomed to the refusal of a priest who may be merely drinking with his friends to ride even a short distance to baptise a dying baby, or to administer the last rites, unless paid in advance; and yet the sight is familiar of that same priest, with his ox-carts, gathering his rightful tithes from the miserable pittance the «inquilinos» — 58 — live on. So it would not need any great act of service rendered to them to demonstrate the dif- ference where the love of Christ exists. A Doctor who could give his time riding through the country and ministering to the people in the name of Jesus, would be a man to be envied. And there are many owners of large landed estates who would welcome a work of uplift among their people, and give facilities therefor. Mr. Spining and Mr. Stevenson have cooperated during the year in holding Workers' Conferences twice in each district, and they are both enthu- siastic as to their results. The workers are always keen about the meetings and are interested in planning for the next, to which they eagerly look forward. The Bible Study gives them a broader knowledge of the Scriptures and new material for homiletic purposes. The evening meetings and the devotional services are a spiritual uplift, and the discussion of methods gives greater efficiency. Not only do these conferences bring stimulus and inspiration to the workers and to the church which serves as hostess, but it is also a great help to the missionary superintendent. In the discussion groups and study hours, things can be said and will be said by the workers themselves which it would be difficult to bring out in any other way. Decisions carry more weight when made by the workers themselves rather than by a superintendent. Indeed — 59 —

it becomes easier in these conferences for the missionary to become, in the eyes of the pastors and workers, a leader of a group rather than an overseer.

New Era Convention. Concepción.

The Church in Concepción is in charge of Rev. Miguel Marti, a well-educated and spiritually- minded Spaniard. It has the usual departments and carries on the customary activities of the Chilean Church. The other division of the work in Concepción Station consists of the day-school in the city itself. — 60 —

This school seems to be passing through a perioc1 of crisis, with a definite and permanent goal ahead.

Concepcion Church. The crisis was caused by the increase in the number and quality of government schools under the new law of compulsory education. This increase in educational advantages will not affect smaller places for a long time to come; but in Concepción, the metropolis and educational centre of the south, and seat of the only University outside of the State University in Santiago, the effect was felt at once. — 61 —

Government schools with much better equipment have been established in the same district. When it seemed that our school might have to be abandoned, however, it became possible to change its

Concepción School. character so as to fill a real need. A young man who is a member of the Concepción church, and who is a skilled workman in all kinds of fine modeling in plaster, cement work and tiling, being tem- porarily out of employment, offered to give the children of the school some lesson in modeling in Plasticene. In this he took such an interest and — 62 — the children did such good work, that before any real plan for manual work had been thought out, we had obtained clay and he was teaching pottery to the children. From this humble beginning, we have been able to work out a program of manual training in the essentials of everyday life: earth, in gardening and pottery; cotton and wool, in sewing and weaving for the girls; wood working and metal working; hygiene and simple domestic science. These practical subjects are attjractjng attention, and we find in them, with the relating to them of the children's arithmetic and other school subjects, a basis of appeal for support to foreigners and Chil- eans alike. The desirability of such a course of practical instruction for Chile is shown by the words of commendation given us by the Govern- ment Inspector of Schools of the Province, Sr. Salas. But one cannot be long in contact with our Chilean church members without realizing their need for physical, economic and mental uplift, as well as spiritual regeneration. Better care of their homes, of their persons, better workmanship so that they may receive better wages; - nd in many cases work itself must be suplied as the basis for the building-up of a better community. Let the person who feels that the missionary's work should be limited to preaching the Gospel, try to give a spiritual message in the depressing atmosphere of a little country town where there is no work, nor — 63

money, and where idleness, vice, gossip and ignor- ance prevail. By establishing small country schools in the villages, taught by teachers of Christian character, where for a long time to come we will not have to compete with increasingly efficient government education; by bringing from these country schools to a central school the pick of the children for further training of mind and hand and heart, in Christian surroundings; -by sending these young people back home with elementary schooling and also with trained hands and ives, as well as a knowledge of homebuilding and thrift; and finally by a wise training of a few for pastors, teachers, nurses and doctors, we will be taking the necessary steps for making Chile an independently Christian country. IV. THE VALE OF PARADISE

Thus far we have followed the work from our northernmost station in Tocopilla by Longitudinal R. R. down through the nitrate and mining districts to Santiago, and thence by the Central R. P. through the great Central Valley to Concepción. But we have not yet touched upon the oldest part of our work, established in 1845 in Valparaiso by Dr. David Trumbull, under the Mission fot Seamen. Taking one of the fine Grace boats in Talcahua- no, the port of Concepción, in eighteen hours we enter the beautiful bay of Valparaiso, with its terraced hills rising tier on tier for a thousand feet, and forming a perfect amphitheatre. The city seen from the bay, or the bay seen from the hills, with its many ships, sailing vessels from all parts of the world and smaller craft riding at anchor, seem to justify its name «The Pearl of the Pacific». But when winter storms sweep over it, it is the terror of every sea-captain, and its name has gone to the ends of the earth as a good place to keep away from! Valparaiso and its fashionable satellite Viña del Mar now number some 250,000 inhabitants. — 65 —

1. A novel chain of schools

The work begun by Dr. Trumbull was assumed by the Presbyterian Mission in 1873 and has

Plaza Victoria Valparaiso. progressed greatly since the days when the service for a handful of English-speaking people had to be held aboard an old hulk in the bay, because the heretics would not be tolerated ashore. One of the first needs discovered by that far-seeing missionary statesman was that of primary education. President Balmaceda, in his zeal for educational expansion, concentrated on the secondary schools, and today 66 —

Chile may be proud of her system of secondary education extending from her Liceos up through her great University. But her primary education is still very deficient. In 1870 Dr. Trumbull and Mr. Merwin established the Escuela Popular in a small house on Cerro Cordillera, near the present site of the San Augustin lift—a primary school for both boys and girls. As this school from the very beginning filled a real need, it has grown steadily in usefulness and influence until now, with its chain of branch schools around the hills, it matriculates each year nearly one thousand children. The Central School has already outgrown the building provided in 1910 by the generosity ot Mrs. C. P. Turner of Philadelphia. Hundreds of children are turned away each year because of lack of room. This school takes the children from kindergarten through the 8th grade. In 1922 it graduated a class of ten boys and girls, and in 1923 a class of six. The first branch Plscuela Popular was established in Cerro Carretas in 19J7, and this ven- ture was so successful that a chain of such little schools encircles Valparaiso hills, although the enrolment in each must be limited to 40. At present there are but six of these branch schools—others have had to be closed for lack of teachers, most of whom have to be trained in the Central School. This year we had the joy of seeing the completion of the new Normal School, just across the street — 67 — from the Kscuela Popular, made possible by the handsome gift of the Sage Fund. It is the first and only Normal School on the West Coast of South America, and its lack had been sorely felt for many years. It is a plain but commodious building, with large dormitories and room to grow. At present there is a boarding-department of twenty girls, nine of whom are preparing for some form of Christian work—seven as teachers, one as nurse ind one as Bible-woman.

Cerro Carretas School. Rev. Robert B. Elmore is Superintendent of this large educational work, Miss Cora Smith is Prin- cipal of the Normal School and Miss Estella Daniel of the Escuela Popular. Miss Ethel Jones is the — 68 — latest addition to the Chile Mission and is to teach m both schools. Miss Daniel is at home on fur- lough. There are seventeen Chilean teachers in all. It is our purpose not only to increase the number of these branch schools in Valparaiso, but to establish them in each town in Chile where we have work, so soon as our teaching force shall warrant it.

2. Chilean churches

It is a far cry from the days when the first Chil- ean congregation on shore met in a bodega of El Mercurio and was seated on old boxes and casks. Now there are three organized churches—San Mar- tin, in the port, Viña del Mar, and Sarita Inés, a suburb of the latter. Each has its ordained Chilean pastor, and the usual complement of Sunday- schools, Women's Leagues, Christian Endeavour Societies and Clubs, and carries on an aggressive evangelistic work, in six preachingrhalls at strategic points around the hills. A new group has recently been formed in a fish- ing-hamlet on the shore of the bay just outside the city, and curiously enough there has been no persecution. New ventures of this kind have usually to pass through a baptism of stones, and in this same place another group, some years ago, in addition to being stoned, was surprised to see on the — 69 —

platform, after a season of prayer, a full grown donkey introduced by some facetious youths! Valparaiso Station and the entire Chile Mission

Iglesia San Martin. suffered an incalculable loss in the death of Rev. James F. Garvin in January, of 1923. Mrs. Garvin — 70 — carries on with great courage, enthusiasm and ability. All year her little home in Recreo has been the weekly meeting-place of all the workers on Monday morning, when the results of the past week are reported, plans laid for the ensuing days, and some bit of inspiration given by this veteran in missionary service. Mrs. Garvin has also taught the S. S. lessons for the month at the monthly dinner for the Sunday-school teachers of the district, held at the Normal School, and has given many talks throughout the year to Bands of Hope, Women's Leagues and teachers in the dayschools.

3. The Baby Dispensary

Mrs. Elmore, Mrs. Garvin and Mrs. Van Eaton, assisted by two doctors, one nurse and her assistant, one visitor and a Bible woman, have charge of the Dispensary which was the first of its kind to be „established in Chile. Like the Santiago one, it is limited to babies and their mothers. Special attention is given to the question of nutrition, and Nestle's food is given to sick babies and those under six months old. Many women come but once or twice, but there is a large number who are regular clients -and look upon the Dispensary as a real friend, saying proudly «1 have two (or three) babies who have been raised here». Four hundred have been — 71 — registered during the year. The appalling need for this work is seen from the official statistics for the first six months of 1923 for this district: Births 1268; deaths 1761.

Valparaiso Dispensary.

The visiting nurse follows up cases in the home, and her notebook makes very interesting reading. She has been the means of making several property owners clean up their «conventillos». The Bible woman gives out savings bank books, sells saving stamps and the «Handbook for Mothers», and presents the Gospel to the women. Once a month a talk on practical hygiene is given. — 72 —

4. The Rest Home

Through the kindness of Miss Valeria Penrose of Germantown we are the proud possessors of a little Rest Home on a cliff overlooking the sea, an hour by motor from Vina del Mar. Even mission-

Rest Home. aries wear out sometimes, and this little haven of rest, with its tiny beach below, spells health and saves Doctors' bills and obligatory furloughs. It has been furnished throughout by interested English and American friends. During this year's Annual Meeting in September, the Mission took an afternoon's recess to see it in its completed state. As will be seen by those who have had the pa- tience to follow this narrative to its last page, there are many opportunities and untouched possibilities of service lying «Twixt the Andes and the Sea». We would express our heartfelt thanks to the loyal friends in Chile and in the United States who by their prayers and gifts have made it possible for the Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions to carry on this work. — 75 —

STATISTICS

Ordained missionaries 1-1 Missionary Wives 10 Missionary Children 25 Single Women 4 Short term missionaries.—Men 3 Women 2 Secondary Schools 1 Primary Schools 8 Normal Schools 1 Dispensaries 2 Book-shops 1 Church Papers 1 Organized Churches 20- Membership 1282 Adherents 2000 Ordained National Pastors 11 Local Evangelists 9 Bible Women 4 Seminary Students S Self-supporting Churches 3 Sunday-schools 42 S. S. Scholars 3410