The U.S. Public Health Service has set standards for Grade A pasteurized and milk products. To earn this grade, milk must be produced under sanitary conditions and be handled carefully. Fresh whole milk must con- tain not less than 3.25 percent milkfat (sometimes called butterfat) and not less than 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids (protein, milk sugar, and minerals). Harold E. Meister Many cities, counties, and States Jennie L. Brogdon have adopted the U.S. Public Health Service standards for milk. Others have established their own standards. Movement of ample supplies of safe, Versatility, Inc., wholesome milk between producing and consuming markets is assured by local, State, and Federal cooperation. 1th Milk and The U.S. Department of Agriculture has established grades for nonfat dry Our Other milk. The USDA grade shield signifies that the product has been packaged in Foods a clean, sanitary plant and that it meets exacting quality requirements. The highest quality of instant nonfat dry You have probably never gone a whole milk is designated U.S. Extra Grade. day without having milk and other U.S. Government regulations pro- dairy products. From the first meal in vide that nonfat dry milk and fresh the morning to the last evening snack, skim milk may be fortified with vita- these versatile foods add flavor, whole- mins A and D. Fresh whole milk may someness, and variety to our diets. be fortified with vitamins and minerals. What are the dairy foods that are so In some States, you will find filled prevalent in our daily meals? Milk, milk and imitation milk in the stores. , , , and all the Filled milk is a combination of skim good dishes containing these foods. milk and vegetable ; or of nonfat Milk may be processed in a number dry milk, water, and vegetable fat. of ways. These products include whole, Imitation milk is a combination of skimmed, and flavored fresh milk; cul- several nondairy ingredients made in tured, canned, and dried milk; fresh the semblance of mi&. The ingredients and cultured cream; and frozen desserts. include vegetable fat which is often Most of the milk sold in the United , protein such as sodium States is cow's milk. Some 's milk caseinate or soya solids, corn sirup is available as a specialty product. It solids, flavoring agents, stabilizers, is used mainly by people who are al- emulsifiers, and water. Minimum lergic to cow's milk or who are on standards have not been set to assure other special diets. Goat's milk is sold nutritional qualities comparable to fresh and canned. fresh fluid milk. Almost all fresh milk and cream on Cofí"ee whiteners, dry whipped top- the market is pasteurized to protect ping mixes, and most of the whipped the consumer. In pasteurizing, milk is heated briefly to kill harmful bacteria. Harold E, Meister is Deputy Director, Dairy Then it is chilled rapidly. Most fresh Division, Consumer and Marketing Service. Jennie L. Brogdon was a Food Technologist, whole pasteurized mük is homogenized. Human Nutrition Research Division, Agricultural The homogenizing process disperses Research Service. She is now doing graduate work the fat evenly through the milk. at the University of Maryland. 146 toppings in pressurized cans are made oflf the botde or , and dry with a from nondairy products. clean cloth before placing it in the When buying milk, remember that coldest part of your refrigerator (40°F.). fresh milk and cultured milk cost more Keeping these dairy products tighüy than dried and canned forms. Milk covered will prevent absorption of that is fortified with multiple vitamins odors and flavors from other foods in and minerals is generally the most the refrigerator. expensive. Don't let milk and cream stand in If you want to cut food costs and still the light because it destroys riboflavin provide the milk which your family and may cause an off-flavor. Put these needs, you might try changing your products in the refrigerator as soon as patterns for buying and using milk. possible after they are purchased or Here are some suggestions: delivered to your home, and take them out only long enough to measure the • Buy fresh fluid milk at a food or dairy amount needed for immediate use. retail store. Milk often costs more when Don't mix new milk with old unless delivered to the home. you are going to use it immediately. • Buy fresh milk in multiquart con- And don't put unused milk back in the tainers if you can use this amount original container once it has been without waste. Usually, milk in %- or removed from it; store this milk in a 1 -gallon containers costs less per quart separate container. than in single quarts. Canned milk can be stored at room • Use in cooking. temperature until opened. Then refrig- erate like fresh milk. Unless you rely on fortified milk as a Keep dry milk at 75° F. or lower, if principal source of vitamin D, you possible, until reconstituted ; then treat can— it like fresh milk. Close the packages immediately after using. If the milk • Buy fresh milk without added vita- powder is exposed to moisture in the mins and minerals, if there is a differ- air during storage, it may become ence in price between nonfortified and lumpy and stale. fortified milk. For best flavor, use fluid milk and • Use nonfat dry milk in cooking or as cream within 3 to 5 days and cultured a beverage. Some families mix equal products within 2 or 3 days. Unopened amounts of reconstituted nonfat dry jars of sterilized cream can be kept milk and fresh whole milk to make a for several months in the refrigerator. beverage. After opening, use within 10 days. Pressurized cans of whipped cream Fluid milk, cream, and cultured milk may be kept for several weeks. products are at their best in flavor and Milk that has been frozen for a month nutritive value when they are kept or less can be used although the flavor clean, cold, and tightly covered. Rinse and appearance may be changed. Do not freeze sour cream, , evapo- rated milk, or cream. Most forms of milk can be used interchangeably. Reconstituted non- VJSD4 fat dry milk or evaporated milk diluted with an equal amount of water may be used in place of whole milk in some recipes. You might want to add 2}^ teaspoons of butter or margarine to U.S. DEPT. OF AGRICULTURE 1 cup of reconstituted nonfat dry milk whenever you are using this in place of whole milk. SHIELD ON U.S. GRADED NONFAT DRY MILK Due to the tangy flavor, 147 Fresh milk is a key part of a school lunch. cannot replace the other forms of ings, and special recipes because of milk in some recipes. If buttermilk is the added sugar. used in place of sweet milk in cakes Homogenized milk can be used in- and quick breads, use % teaspoon of terchangeably with nonhomogenized, baking soda and }i cup of buttermilk but you may notice slight differences in the place of 1 teaspoon of baking in texture. Sauces made with homog- powder and % cup of sweet milk. enized milk will be stifTer and show If you do not have any buttermilk more fat separation. Commercial and available, you can use home-soured cornstarch puddings also will become milk. Add 1 tablespoon of vinegar or thicker when made with homogenized lemon juice to 1 cup fresh milk or milk. Soups, gravies, and scalloped to }i cup evaporated milk plus }^ cup potatoes will curdle more readily. water. Let stand 5 minutes. Use 2 Either undiluted evaporated milk teaspoons of vinegar or lemon juice or unreconstituted nonfat dry milk to 1 cup of reconstituted nonfat dry may be added to sauces, custards, milk. Let stand 10 minutes. mashed vegetables, ground meat and Sweetened is used poultry dishes, or baked goods to in- primarily in desserts, candies, frost- crease nutritive value. 148 When you reconstitute nonfat dry caused by acids in foods. A high salt milk, follow the mixing directions on content or tannins in foods can also the package; for ease in measuring, cause milk protein to coagulate. Toma- use 1 cup of dry milk to 3 cups of toes, peas, carrots, and asparagus are water. In many recipes, the nonfat some of the vegetables which might dry milk can be added with the dry cause curdling. ingredients. Add the water for recon- Any procedure which will keep the stituting the milk along with the other protein from clumping together will liquid ingredients in the recipe. keep the mixture smooth. There are Both evaporated milk and nonfat several ways to accomplish this: Pre- dry milk can be reconstituted with pare the milk in a white sauce; stir liquids from cooked vegetables and it constantly when the vegetable is meats for creamed or scalloped dishes added; add the vegetable shortly be- or with some fruit juices to use in fore serving, and heat briefly. This puddings and in other desserts. golden squash soup is made using some Lowered temperatures are recom- of these procedures. mended when cooking dishes in which milk is the main ingredient. If milk is GOLDEN SQUASH SOUP cooked at too high a temperature or for too long a time, some of the protein 6 servings, 1 cup each coagulates into a surface film or a 1 small onion, sliced coating on the sides of the pan. Also, 2 tablespoons butter or margarine off-flavors develop and the milk may }i cup flour scorch. 5 cups milk m cups cooked, pureed Hubbard squash Heat milk over low heat or in a (fresh or frozen) double boiler, being careful not to let VÁ teaspoons salt it boil. Casseroles cooked in the oven >4 teaspoon celery salt should be baked at low temperatures, K teaspoon curry powder Pepper as desired and custards set in a pan of hot water. 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Fluid milk is the major ingredient of white sauce. Learn to make a smooth, Cook onion in fat in a large sauce- well-seasoned white sauce and you pan for a few minutes. Blend flour with have the basis for many dishes. White onion; add milk. Cook over low heat, sauce is prepared in thin, medium, or stirring constandy, until thickened. thick consistency, depending upon the Remove fi-om heat; gently blend in amount of flour which is used to squash and seasoning. Heat to serving thicken the milk. temperature, but do not boil. Sprinkle Thin or medium white sauce is used each serving of soup with parsley. in gravies and in creamed and scal- loped vegetables, egg, fish, and meat There are times when you want dishes. Thin white sauce is also used the milk to coagulate; for example, in cream soups. Thick white sauce is when you use rennin to make a junket used in hollandaise sauce and as a dessert. A firmer clot will be formed binder for croquettes and souffles. if you do not boil the milk and if you The sauce can take on a new iden- do not stir the mixture too much after tity with added ingredients such as adding the rennin. Evaporated milk mushrooms, onions, eggs, pimiento; should not be used for this dessert or when seasoned with curry powder, because a very soft is formed. dry mustard, chives, parsley, or other Yogurt, which is custardlike in tex- herbs. ture and acid in flavor, can be eaten Have you ever prepared a cream "as is" or used in desserts, dips, salad soup or other creamed dish that cur- dressings, or for cooking. When yogurt dled? Curdling results when casein, a is used in cooking, fold or stir gently protein of milk, coagulates or clumps into the other ingredients so that the together. Such a coagulation can be texture is not changed. 149 The velvety, thick consistency and ages, cereals, or desserts as well as for tangy flavor of dairy sour cream adds cooking. Heavy cream, in addition to a gourmet touch to foods from appe- being used for cooking, is used for tizers to desserts. As an appetizer, try whipping. this dip. Thick, luscious mounds of whipped cream naturally team up with des- SOUR CREAM-HAM DIP serts—as a garnish, as part of the About 1 cup dessert, or even as a dessert by itself. Whipped cream also can be included 1 cup dairy sour cream in saJads or party sandwiches. 1 can mi ounces) deviled ham Heavy cream should whip to twice 1 teaspoon prepared mustard 1 tablespoon grated onion its volume. That is, 1 cup Q;i pint) of cream yields about 2 cups of whipped Whip dairy sour cream until fluffy. cream. This volume is best obtained Mix ham, mustard, and onion. with cream that is 30 to 35 percent fat, Blend into sour cream. is at least 24 hours old, and is thor- Serve with crackers, potato chips, oughly chilled to between 35° and 40° or raw vegetables. F. It helps to chill the bowl and beater, too. Use a deep, narrow bowl with As it comes from the carton, dairy straight sides rather than a wide and sour cream is a ready-to-use salad shallow one. dressing or an instant sauce for raw Beat the cream until it is fairly stiff. or cooked vegetables or baked pota- Be careful not to overheat or you will toes. You can also purchase a dry mix have butter. for sour cream sauce that can be used When the cream is stiff, fold in a for these same purposes. You can tablespoon of sugar per cup of un- make a fancier sauce by adding in- whipped cream and )^ teaspoon vanilla gredients like chives, horseradish, dill or other flavoring. More sugar can be seed, onions, or nuts. added, if you wish. Do not add the When used in dressings or sauces sugar too soon or it will take longer to which contain acid foods such as whip the cream and the volume will vinegar or lemon juice, the sour cream not be as great. Sweetened whipped may become thin when it is mixed. cream will not be as stiff or as stable However, it will return to its original as unsweetened. You might prefer to consistency after the product is chuled. use unsweetened whipped cream when Remember when heating sour cream it is a topping for some desserts. that it reacts as milk does to high Whipped cream can be frozen in temperatures, and may curdle. This individual portions and used as a may also happen if it is heated at low garnish. This is particularly good on temperatures for a long time. It is best warm fruit pies. to add the sour cream near the end of Whipped instant nonfat dry milk cooking and to keep the temperature or whipped evaporated milk can be low. If the mixture should curdle, the substituted in many recipes in which appearance will be unattractive but whipped cream is used. For the best the flavor will still be good. results, whip instant nonfat dry milk Sour half-and-half may be substi- according to package instructions. tuted in many foods for sour cream. Evaporated milk should not be diluted However, because of the lower fat when it is to be whipped. Place the content, do not substitute sour half- evaporated milk in the freezer until and-half in cakes and cookies unless it is icy around the edges and partially these contain fat in addition to the frozen. Then whip until stiff. Unlike sour cream. cream, evaporated milk triples in vol- Rich, smooth cream is an essential ume so that % cup of milk will yield ingredient in fine cooking. Light or 2 cups after whipping. table cream is used "as is" for bever- If you wish to serve whipped cream 150 as a dessert, fold in rum, sherry, or brandy to taste in place of the vanilla flavoring. Or fold in 1 cup of apple- sauce or other fruit puree to 2 cups of whipped cream. , America's favorite des- sert, was also popular during our colonial days. There are many flavors on the market, but vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry are still the bestsellers. Frozen custard, fruit sherbet, and are other popular desserts. Frozen desserts should be stored in the tighdy closed carton at 0° F. or colder. If you store ice cream in a refrigerator frozen-food compartment, use it within a week. When the ice cream is partially used up, cover the surface with a protective wrap so as to avoid the loss of moisture. Commercial frozen desserts are ex- cellent. But homemade ice cream or sherbet is a treat worth your effort. There are prepared mixes on the market, or you can find a recipe in almost any cookbook. Quality of ice cream is improved if the dairy prod- ucts used are homogenized or in concentrated form, such as evaporated milk. Adding gelatin or egg also im- proves quality. There are two methods of preparing Versatile dairy products can be served as ice these desserts—stirred and unstirred cream, above; as an ingredient in soup, left; or still -frozen. and as and milk with a meal, right. H■ m■ m •r ^#^2 Ik

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151 The stirred method requires either sanitary controls. All of these things hand or electric power to turn the play a part in giving us wholesome dasher crank. When you first begin, butter with a fine flavor and good turn the dasher slowly and steadily spreadability. to insure a smooth cream. Do not turn Butter is made by churning pasteur- the dasher too fast or your mixture ized cream. By law, butter must con- may be churned to butter. When the tain not less than 80 percent milkfat. ice cream is frozen to a mush (about It may or may not contain salt. If 5 to 10 minutes), turn the dasher more no salt is added the package is usually rapidly to whip air into the cream. labelled "unsalted butter." However, To harden the ice cream to serving in some markets it is known as "sweet" consistency and also to insure a well- butter. blended flavor, freeze the cream at The highest quality butter is made least 1 hour after mixing is completed. from sweet cream, or sweet cream to Continuous stirring in the freezer which a culture similar to that used keeps ice crystals small and incorpo- in cultured milk products has been rates air. When the dessert is still- added. Cultured butter has a mildly frozen, as in refrigerator trays, some acid flavor and aroma. Unsalted butter other means must be used to keep the packed for sale to consumers generally ice crystals small and prevent forma- has this pleasing acid flavor. tion of a solid ice mass. This is done by Whipped butter is made by whip- rapid freezing; by folding in a fluffy ping air or inert gas into butter. This beaten product such as whipped increases volume and makes the butter cream or beaten egg white; and by easier to spread. Most of the whipped removing the mushy mixture from the butter sold in this country is unsalted. refrigerator freezer, beating it until Most of the butter ofí'ered to con- well-blended, and returning it to the sumers has the U.S. Department of freezer until firm. Even when these Agriculture shield with a letter grade procedures are used, texture of a still- indicating the butter's quality at time frozen dessert is less smooth than of grading. The assigned grade is based that of a stirred one because the ice on oflicial standards and specifications. crystals are larger. These ice crystals Tests are run on the butter's "keeping will continue to form during storage quality" as a check for wholesomeness. so that still-frozen dessert is best eaten Only butter manufactured in a plant soon after preparation. inspected and approved by USDA for Ice cream is easier to scoop or slice sanitation and good operating prac- if it is at refrigerator temperature for tices can be oflicially graded. a short time—about 10 minutes for a U.S. Grade AA butter has delicate, pint and 20 minutes for a half gallon. sweet flavor, with a fine, highly pleas- Butter is one of our oldest staple ing aroma. It has a smooth texture foods. Recorded history shows it was with good spreadability. U.S. Grade A used in India as long ago as 2000 B.C. butter is made from fresh cream. Its In the United States, the buttermaking flavor and aroma are pleasing but not industry has developed in stages start- quite as fine as for the top grade. ing as a farm operation; then moving To maintain the delicate flavor, store into small plants receiving cream de- butter in the original wrappings until livered by horse and wagon; then to ready for use. Keep in the coldest part larger central plants to take advantage of the refrigerator and only remove as of the savings in volume operations. much as you will use at one time. If Plants are continuing to consolidate butter is exposed at room temperature into larger units. Consumers benefit for long periods, light and heat may because these plants are taking ad- hasten rancidity. Always keep butter vantage of the newest milk and cream covered so it will not absorb flavors processing equipment and churns, from other foods. The butter compart- automated packaging equipment, and ment on the refrigerator door keeps 152 stitute for butter in a recipe since the shortening power is not the same as for unwhipped butter. Butter can be used for pan frying. Don't let the temperature get too high or the butter will smoke and brown. Because butter has a low smoking point, it is not suitable for deep-fat frying. Cheese is available in many styles, SHIELD ON Ü.S. GRADED BUTTER AND CHEDDAR CHEESE flavors, and textures to suit just about every taste and occasion. The refrig- erated showcase in any modern food butter at spreading consistency. If you market is most enticing with its display do not plan to use the butter within a of various shapes and sizes of cheese short period of time, keep it in the packages—wedges, oblongs, segments, freezer. It can be frozen in the original cubes, slices, blocks, and cut portions. container unless you plan to keep it for For many people, their adventuresome several months ; then it should be over- spirit takes over when they see the wrapped with moisture-proof material. attractive cheese display, and they buy Butter adds a pleasing, distinctive unfamiliar varieties for the pure enjoy- flavor to vegetables, creamed dishes, ment of getting acquainted with new desserts, icings, and of course, to hot cheese flavors and textures. Others like breads and rolls. Sauces that combine to choose with more certainty the type butter with many diflerent kinds of of cheese that will be just right for a seasonings are also good and very easy particular dish, a particular occasion, to make. Melt or whip the butter with or to suit their taste. parsley, lemon, dill, basil, or other With more than 400 varieties of herbs. Start with % teaspoon seasoning natural cheese alone, there are bound to % cup {% stick) butter and increase to be several cheeses for every taste. according to your taste. You may not like some kinds, others Try out your own combinations; may become favorites. If you are used you might even become noted for to a mild Cheddar, try other mild your own special sauce. cheeses first, and then stronger flavored A dessert hard sauce is made by ones. For still more variety, the market creaming butter with confectioner's offers pasteurized process cheese and sugar and flavoring it with extracts or related products. spices or with wine, brandy, whiskey, The jfoUowing information on the or rum. This is the traditional sauce various forms of cheese available in for English plum pudding. retail markets may enlarge your own For any flour mixture that contains acquaintance with the cheese family. a considerable amount of fat, butter is Natural Cheese is made by coagulat- a good choice since it adds fine flavor ing milk and then separating the curd as well as shortening. It has long been or solid part from the or watery a favorite for cakes, puff* pastry, and part. Most natural cheeses are made butter cookies. firom whole cow's milk, although some Butter can also be used as the short- are made from skim milk, whey, or ening in plain pastry, but because mixtures of all three. butter is only 80 percent fat the crust Many of the popular varieties of will not be as tender as one made with natural cheese, although originating another shortening, unless you use in Europe, are now produced in the more of it. Use 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons United States, and are available in of butter in place of 1 cup of vegetable most food stores, delicatessens, and or other shortening. specialty cheese stores. Do not use whipped butter as a sub- Many persons prefer natural cheeses 153 to other forms of cheese because each culture and enzymes. The rate of has its own characteristic flavor and curing, however, is much slower be- texture. Flavors range from bland cot- cause of the very low moisture and tage cheese to tangy Blue (or bleu) or high salt content. In this category are pungent Limburger. Textures vary, Parmesan, Romano, and Sap Sago. too—from the smooth creaminess of Blue-vein, mold-ripened cheese cur- cream cheese to the firm elasticity of ing is accomplished by the aid of Swiss cheese. Flavor and body and bacteria, but more particularly by the texture of cheeses are closely related use of a characteristic mold culture to degree of ripening or aging. Some that grows throughout the interior of natural cheeses are used unripened. the cheese to produce the familiar Soft unripened varieties such as cot- appearance and characteristic flavor. tage, cream, Neufchâtel, and ricotta The well-known blue-veined cheeses cheese contain relatively high moisture include Blue (or bleu). Gorgonzola, and do not undergo any curing or Stilton, and Roquefort. ripening. Examples of firm, unripened Pasteurized Process Cheese is a blend of cheeses are Gjetost and Mysost. fresh and aged natural cheeses which In the soft, ripened cheeses, curing have been shredded, mixed, and progresses from the outside or rind of heated (pasteurized), after which no the cheese toward the center. Particu- further ripening occurs. It melts easily lar molds or culture of bacteria or when reheated. The blend may con- both, which grow on the surface of the sist of one or two or more varieties of cheese, aid in developing the charac- natural cheese and it may contain teristic flavor and body and texture pimientos, fruits, vegetables, or meats. during the process of curing. Curing Smoked cheese or smoke flavor may continues as long as the temperature also be added. is favorable. These cheeses include The flavor of pasteurized process such varieties as Brie, Camembert, cheese depends largely upon the flavor and Limburger. They usually contain of the cheese used, which may be more moisture than semisoft, ripened modified by flavoring materials added. varieties. As an example, pasteurized Gruyere Semisoft, ripened cheeses ripen from cheese has a nut-sweet flavor, some- the interior as well as from the surface. what similar to Swiss. This ripening process begins soon after Process cheese is packaged in slices, the cheese is formed, with the aid of a )^-, 1-, and 2-pound loaves, and cut characteristic bacterial or mold culture portions. or both. Curing continues as long as Pasteurized process cheese food is the temperature is favorable. Exam- prepared in much the same manner as ples of these cheeses are Bel Paese, process cheese except that it contains Brick, Muenster, and Port du Salut. less cheese, with nonfat dry milk or They contain higher moisture than the whey solids and water added. This firm ripened varieties. results in a lower milkfat content and Firm ripened cheeses ripen with the more moisture than in process cheese. aid of a bacterial culture, throughout Pasteurized process cheese food also the entire cheese. Ripening continues may contain pimientos, fruits, vege- as long as the temperature is favorable. tables, or meats, or it may have a The rate and degree of curing is also smoked flavor. The most popular vari- closely related to moisture content; ety is American cheese food. therefore these cheeses, being lower in Cheese food is milder in flavor, has moisture than the softer varieties, do a softer texture, spreads more easily, usually require a longer curing time. and melts quicker than process cheese Included are Cheddar, Colby, Edam, due to a higher moisture content. It is Gouda, Provolone, and Swiss. packaged in slices, rolls, links, and Very hard ripened cheeses also are loaves. cured with the help of a bacterial Pasteurized process cheese spread is 154 made in much the same manner as packaged alike, but the names on the pasteurized process cheese food but labels will be different. Do not confuse generally contains higher moisture, and the brand name with the name of the the milHat content is usually lower. A cheese. stabilizer is used in preparing this The name of a natural cheese will product to prevent separation of in- appear as the variety such as "Cheddar gredients. It is normally more spread- cheese," or "Blue cheese." A very im- able than cheese food. Cheese spread portant bit of information on the label may contain pimientos, fruit, vege- of certain varieties of natural cheese tables, meat, or have a smoked flavor. pertains to the age or degree of rip- It is sold in jars and loaves. ening. For instance, Cheddar cheese The flavor of pasteurized process labeled "mUd" usually has been aged cheese spread depends largely upon 2 to 3 months; "medium" or "mellow" the flavor of the cheese used, which has been aged 4 to 7 months; and may be modified by flavoring materi- "aged" or "sharp," 8 to 12 months. als added. Pasteurized process cheese labels will Coldpack Cheese or Club Cheese is a always include the name of the variety blend of the same or two or more vari- or varieties of cheese used, for instance, eties of fresh and aged natural cheese, "pasteurized process American cheese" as in process cheese, except that the or "pasteurized process Swiss and cheese is mixed into a uniform product American cheese." In some cases, pas- without heating. The flavor is the teurized process cheese may be labeled same as the natural cheese used and to indicate a sharp flavor when a much usually is aged or sharp. It may have higher proportion of sharp or aged a smoked flavor. The body is softer cheese was used in its preparation. and spreads easily. Principal varieties Labels of cheese foods and cheese are coldpack American cheese and spreads will include all the ingredients coldpack Swiss cheese. Coldpack cheese used in preparing these products along is packaged in jars, rolls, or links. with the kinds or varieties of cheese Coldpack cheese food is prepared used in the mixture. Also, the milkfat in the same manner as coldpack cheese, and moisture content may be shown. but includes other dairy ingredients as Coldpack cheese and coldpack cheese used in process cheese food. In addi- food are labeled in the same manner tion, sweetening agents such as sugar as other cheese and cheese foods except and corn sirup may be added. It is that "club cheese" or "comminuted packaged in the same way as coldpack cheese" may be substituted for the cheese. name "coldpack cheese." The flavor resembles the cheese from Grades—based on flavor, body, tex- which it is made but is milder; the ture, finish, appearance, and color— cheese food is softer and spreads more have been established for some varie- easily due to the other ingredients ties of natural cheese. Grademarks do added and the higher moisture content. not usually appear on retail packages, The descriptions above show there but you may find some packages of are significant differences between nat- Cheddar cheese bearing the U.S. Grade ural cheeses and different kinds of AA mark. Cheeses with this mark are process cheese and related products. of the highest quality with fine, pleas- These diff'erences make it very impor- ing flavor. Grade A is very good quality. tant that you check the labels when Process cheese and cheese foods are buying cheese. not federally graded, but frequently For some purposes you may want are inspected and bear the USD A natural cheese, for others process cheese "quality approved" inspection shield. or cheese food, and for still others Cottage cheese also may have a shield pasteurized process cheese spread or on its container stating that it is coldpack cheese may best serve your "quality approved" by the U.S. De- needs. In many cases, they may be partment of Agriculture. 155 tightly covered container. This is es- pecially needed for cheeses with a o SD A strong odor, such as Limburger. Cheese that has become dried out and hard I QUALITY APPROVED^ during storage can be grated and kept 'U.S.DEPT.OF AGRICULTURE in a tightiy covered jar. GRADING AND QUALITY CONTROL SERVICE If you want to keep a larger piece

OFFÎC1ALLY INSPECTED of cheese for an extended time, dip the cut surface in melted paraffin. Jars of process cheese spreads and SHIELD ON USDA-INSPECTED PROCESS cheese foods can be kept at room tem- CHEESE PRODUCTS perature until opened, then refriger- ated, tightly covered. These will keep To earn the *'quality approved" for several weeks. , shield, the cheese must have been Freezing is not recommended since manufactured in a plant that meets the texture of natural cheeses becomes USDA specifications for condition of crumbly and mealy, and soft cheeses plant and equipment, A USDA in- separate upon thawing. However, cer- spector stationed at the plant checks tain varieties can be frozen if it is done on quality of raw materials and plant rapidly, if pieces are less than a pound sanitation, and inspects the finished in weight and an inch in thickness, and products for compliance with Federal if pieces are carefully protected in specifications. moisture-proof material. Varieties that To find the relative cost of various can be frozen include Cheddar, Swiss, cheeses, compare the price of equal Edam, Gouda, Brick, Muenster, Port weights of cheese. du Salut, Provolone, Mozzarella, and Aged or sharp natural cheeses usu- Camembert. If Blue, Roquefort, or ally cost more than mild ones; im- gorgonzola cheeses are to be used ported cheeses frequently cost more for salads or salad dressings where a than domestic ones; and prepackaged crumbly texture is acceptable, small sliced, cubed, or grated cheeses may quantities of these can be frozen. Store cost more than wedges or sticks. Cream the cheeses in the freezer no more than or cottage cheese flavored with chives, 6 months, thaw in the refrigerator, and pimientos, or other ingredients some- use as soon as possible after thawing. times is more expensive than similar Cheese can be eaten throughout the cheese bought plain and seasoned at day in many ways—^with crackers, as a home. Pasteurized process cheeses toasted sandwich, or with assorted often cost less than natural cheeses. relishes on an appetizer tray. In many How do you store the cheeses you've European countries, a mild cheese ap- selected? Keep them refrigerated. The pears at breakfast accompanied by length of time you can store cheese fresh white bread or rolls and jam. depends on the kind and the wrapping. Complete the meal with a hot bever- Cottage and Ricotta cheeses should be age, and you will have a different and used within a few days. Other soft delicious way to start the day. varieties such as cream and Neuf- When eating cheese as it is, the im- chatel should be used within 2 weeks. portant thing to remember is that the Hard cheeses will keep up to several characteristic flavor and texture of months if protected from drying out most cheese is best when served at and mold contamination. room temperature. Remove from the All cheeses should be kept in their refrigerator at least 1 hour before serv- original container or wrappings, if ing. The exceptions are cottage and possible. Once a cheese is cut, it tends cream cheese which are served directly to dry out rapidly unless it is over- from the refrigerator. wrapped with aluminum foil, plastic Cheese and fruit are natural part- wrap, or waxed paper, or stored in a ners and can become an easy but ele- 156 gant ending to your next dinner party protein nature, cheese that is heated at or buffet. Plan on several varieties too high a temperature or for too long with varying flavors and textures. a time becomes tough and stringy. The Serve at least one full-flavored variety fat separates out from the protein and such as Blue cheese. the flavor may change. You might also include one cheese Cheese will melt quicker if it is which is unfamiliar to most of your sliced, cubed, shredded, or grated to guests for its conversation value. use in a recipe. Shred soft cheese on a Use your prettiest tray or platter. coarse grater; shred hard cheese on a Gut the cheeses in difl*erent forms; for fine one. example, Swiss into slices, Cheddar Follow cooking directions carefully into cubes or fingers, and Blue into in any recipe you use. In general, for wedges. Serve a soft cheese in one piece best results when you are cooking on or cut into cubes. The red, wax-coated top of the stove, use a double boiler. Edam or Gouda is a colorful addition You can cook your cheese dish over if served with a slice removed from the direct heat if the heat is low and you top so that the center can be scooped stir constantly. out. In making cheese sauces, add the Serve several kinds of fruits. Apples, cheese last and stir just until melted. pears, orange sections, pineapple spears, Easy cheese sauces can be made from and seedless grapes are good choices. the dry sauce mixes or the condensed If apples and pears are served cut, Cheddar cheese soups which are on remember that they will darken unless the market. dipped in lemon juice or other citrus What cheese should you use for juice. cooking? Your family has certain pref- If fresh fruits are not available, you erences and many homemakers regard might serve fruit preserves, jam, an Cheddar or American as the best especially interesting jelly, or candied cooking cheese. However, other varie- and dried fruits. ties such as Blue, cottage, cream, Par- Finish your tray with crisp crackers mesan, Romano, and Swiss are also or thin slices of pumpernickel or rye excellent for various dishes. With few bread. Select crackers with flavors that exceptions, the use of any cheese is not will not compete with the cheeses. limited. Cheese spreads and dips are popular In general, a sharper, longer aged as snacks and for entertaining. You natural cheese contributes more flavor might prefer making your own, but and better texture to cooked dishes there are a large number of already than a milder, less-ripened one. Proc- prepared snacks and dips available. ess cheeses are often preferred for Whipped cream or Neufchâtel cheese cooking as they melt to a creamy may have clams, chives, mushrooms, smoothness and blend well with other onions, bacon, dates and nuts, or other foods. However, they are often bland ingredients added. in flavor. Cheeses packed in pressurized cans are another convenience. You can use CHEESE RAREBIT (WELSH RABBIT) these for canapes and sandwiches. Sev- 6 servings, % cup rarebit each eral difl'erent cheeses are available. 1 egg, beaten The use of cheese in cooking is end- V/i cups milk less. Cheese makes a delicious com- 3 cups 0i pound) shredded cheese bination in casseroles with pasta ; with 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Yi teaspoon dry mustard vegetables; and with meats, poultry, 2 tablespoons chopped pimiento and fish. Attention to two simple rules will Combine all ingredients except pi- insure a successful cheese dish—use low miento. Cook over low heat, stirring heat and do not overcook. When cheese constantly, until cheese is melted and is melted, it is cooked. Because of its the mixture is slightly thickened. Stir 157 Cheese rarebit served with a tomato slice on bread. in pimiento and serve immediately on and need to be placed over simmering toast or crackers, as desired. water and stirred until it is again smooth. The texture may be slightly If the rarebit is made with natural grainy. Cheddar cheese it will have a zesty If the rarebit is made with process flavor, but must be freshly stirred and Cheddar cheese it will have an unfail- served immediately. It may separate ing smoothness and a milder flavor.

GLOSSARY FRESH FLUID MILK Grade A pasteurized milk sold for home use. Whole milk At least 3.25 percent milkfat and 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids.' Homogenized Fat uniformly distributed through milk. Cream-line Layer of cream at top of container. Vitamin D Vitamin D increased to at least 400 U.S.P. or In- ternational units per quart. Fortified multiple-vitamin Added vitamin A, vitamin D, riboflavin, thiamine, and/or mineral niacin, and/or iron, iodine. Concentrated Fresh milk with a considerable portion of the water removed. Processed to remove most of the fat, which also re- moves the vitamin A and vitamin D of fluid whole milk. Skim (skimmed or nonfat Less than 0.5 percent milkfat and at least 8 percent milk) nonfat milk solids. Fortified skim Added vitamin A and vitamin D, less than 0.5 percent milkfat, and at least 10 percent non- fat milk solids. Lowfat Between 0.5 and 2 percent milkfat. 2 percent 2 percent milkfat and—usually—10 percent nonfat milk solids. 1 Recommended in "Grade 'A' Pasteurized Milk Ordinance," Public Ilealtli Service Publication 229 (1965 revision). Minimums oí 3 percent milkfat and 8 percent nonfat milk solids have been set by some States for whole milk. 158 Flavoring and stabilizer added. Made from whole milk with chocolate and sweet- ener. Chocolate-flavored milk Made from whole milk with cocoa and sweetener. Chocolate drink (chocolate Made from skim or lowfat milk with chocolate lowfat milk) and sweetener. Nonfat milk solids may be added. Chocolate-flavored drink Made from skim or lowfat milk with cocoa and sweetener. Nonfat milk solids may be added. Other Flavored milk: Strawberry, coflfee, maple, or other flavoring combined with whole milk. Flavored drink or flavored lowfat milk: Flavoring com- bined with skim or lowfat milk.

CULTURED MILK Made by adding bacterial culture to milk. Buttermilk Thick, smooth liquid. Usually made from skimmed milk; at least 8.25 percent nonfat milk solids. Yogurt Semisolid. Made from whole or skim milk. Fruit or other flavorings may be added.

CANNED MILK Concentrated by removing water from milk. Evaporated milk Vitamin D usuailly added. Sterilized. Whole At least 7.9 percent milkfat and 25.9 percent total milk solids. Skim Low milkfat—often 0.2 or 0.3 percent. At least 18 percent total milk solids. Vitamin A may be added. Sweetened condensed milk Sugar added to help preserve milk. At least 8.5 per- cent milkfat and 28 percent total milk solids.

DRY MILK Not more than 5 percent of moisture. Nonfat dry or dry skim milk Made from fluid skim milk. Usually "instantized." Not more than 1.5 percent milkfat in dry prod- uct. May be fortified with vitamins A and D. Whole dry milk Made from fluid whole milk. At least 26 percent milkfat in the dry product.

FILLED MILK Combination of skim milk and vegetable fat; or of nonfat milk solids, water, and vegetable fat.

HALF-AND-HALF Mixture of milk and cream. Pasteurized Grade A. Half-and-half At least 10.5 percent milkfat; generally homogenized. Sour half-and-half Made by adding bacteriail culture to fresh half-and- half; 0.2 percent acidity. Fluid or semifluid.

CREAM Pasteurized, Grade A. Table cream (coffee or light At least 18 percent milkfat; generally homogenized. cream) Sour cream Made by adding bacterial culture to fresh table cream; 0.2 percent acidity. Fluid or semifluid. Light whipping cream At least 30 percent milkfat. Heavy whipping cream At least 36 percent milkfat. Pressurized whipped cream Liquid containing fresh table or whipping cream, sugar, stabilizer, emulsifier in aerosol can.

FROZEN DESSERTS Hard or soft frozen, pasteurized during processing. Ice cream Made from cream, milk, sugar, stabilizers. At least 10 percent milkfat and 20 percent total milk solids. Frozen custard (French or Made from the usual ingredients for ice cream, plus New York ice cream) egg yolks. At least 10 percent milkfat and 20 percent total milk solids. Ice milk Made from milk, stabilizers, sweeteners. Between 2 and 7 percent milkfat and at least 11 percent total milk solids. Fruit sherbet Made from milk, fruit or fruit juice, stabilizers, sweeteners. From 1 to 2 percent milkfat and between 2 and 5 percent total milk solids. 159