TOP OF THE POPS A brief but thorough guide to Champagne by Michèle Shah – the grapes, the growth, the processes that make this glorious

othing is more titillating city of is a good starting point to tour than popping a bottle the Champagne area and has all the feel of of Champagne. Its very a bustling regional capital. The old city is name evokes the tingle of dominated by the 13th century cathedral – one celebration. Known as “the of the great gothic cathedrals of northern France Nwine of kings and the king of ”, as far – which is a UNESCO world heritage site. The back as the 9th century in the time of the famous combed of Champagne lie on Emperor Charlemagne, Champagne was a the chalky hills to the southwest of Reims, and rich agricultural area. Today, Champagne is around the town of Epernay. the industry leader in and spirits, The Champagne area is generally divided to the tune of 4.7 billion euros, of which 2.6 into three parts – the Montagne de Reims, billion come from export. the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des The Champagne appellation today covers Blancs. The Aube region, 110 km to the 33,762 ha, representing 4% of France’s total southeast, is important for wines that go into area and producing some 309 million many of the non- blends of the major bottles, comprising 13% by volume of world champagne houses. consumption of sparkling wines. Its exports The subsoil in Champagne is reach more than 190 countries, with the main predominantly limestone. So too are the export markets being the UK with 36 million outcrops of sedimentary rock (75% limestone), bottles and USA with 20.5 million bottles. composed of chalk, marl and limestone The heart of the Champagne region lies proper which provides for good drainage and 145 km to the northeast of Paris. The vibrant also imparts that particular mineral flavour

62 INDIA JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017 found in certain Champagne wines. CHAMPAGNE: KEY MARKET STATISTICS Sloping vineyards are so much a feature of Champagne, that in the 17th century its CHAMPAGNE wines were known as vin de coteaux (wine of the slopes). The terrain, from undulating to moderately steep, creates ideal vineyard sites that combine good drainage with excellent exposure to sunlight. The manicured TOP OF landscapes, the abundance of lush green in the spring and summer and the history that one breathes while visiting the is truly magical. THE POPS he main grape varieties found in A brief but thorough guide to Champagne by Champagne can almost be divided Tinto one-thirds, with Michèle Shah – the grapes, the growth, the taking the slightly larger share, followed by Pinot Meunier and . Yields are processes that make this glorious wine kept to a low of 10,600 kg per hectare, to keep the grapes healthy and dry and aid their ripening. Each Champagne grape variety has its own unique personality, which is expressed at its purest in single-varietal Champagne wines: Un blanc de blancs blended exclusively othing is more titillating city of Reims is a good starting point to tour from white Chardonnay grapes, un blanc de than popping a bottle the Champagne area and has all the feel of noirs blended exclusively from red Pinot Noir of Champagne. Its very a bustling regional capital. The old city is and Pinot Meunier. name evokes the tingle of dominated by the 13th century cathedral – one Cru, the French term for “growth”, refers celebration. Known as “the of the great gothic cathedrals of northern France to a certain winegrowing location with a Nwine of kings and the king of wines”, as far – which is a UNESCO world heritage site. The particular growing environment, especially back as the 9th century in the time of the famous combed vineyards of Champagne lie on with regard to soil and climate, which favours Emperor Charlemagne, Champagne was a the chalky hills to the southwest of Reims, and a particular grape variety. Champagne rich agricultural area. Today, Champagne is around the town of Epernay. is represented by 320 crus and 275,000 the industry leader in French wine and spirits, The Champagne area is generally divided individual vineyard parcels, each with its own to the tune of 4.7 billion euros, of which 2.6 into three parts – the Montagne de Reims, specific profile. billion come from export. the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Back in the time of the monasteries, The Champagne appellation today covers Blancs. The Aube region, 110 km to the blending was an automatic part of the 33,762 ha, representing 4% of France’s total southeast, is important for wines that go into process. Grapes were delivered by vineyard area and producing some 309 million many of the non-vintage blends of the major local farmers as payment of their tithes to the bottles, comprising 13% by volume of world champagne houses. church, and then pressed collectively, regardless consumption of sparkling wines. Its exports The subsoil in Champagne is of differences in grape variety or vineyard site. reach more than 190 countries, with the main predominantly limestone. So too are the Blending became an art in the hands of export markets being the UK with 36 million outcrops of sedimentary rock (75% limestone), notable monastic winemakers, such as the bottles and USA with 20.5 million bottles. composed of chalk, marl and limestone monk, Dom Perignon, bursar of the Abbey of The heart of the Champagne region lies proper which provides for good drainage and Hautvilliers in Champagne. Their particular 145 km to the northeast of Paris. The vibrant also imparts that particular mineral flavour expertise lay in combining selected grapes

62 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017 Sommelier INDIA 63 VISITING CHAMPAGNE INFORMATION YOU CAN USE WHEN TO GO May, June and July are the best months to enjoy the beautiful green vines and sunny blue skies. Also, the months of September and October HOW TO GET THERE Fly to Charles de Gaulle airport and then take the RER train to Reims or rent a car at Paris airport on arrival WHERE TO STAY Relais Châteaux Hôtel Restaurant Les Cràyeres. A handsome château in 17 acres of grounds on the outskirts of Reims, situated next to the Pommery champagne house. It has an excellent restaurant with two Michelin stars Source : Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne – 2016 and a more affordable Le Jardin Brasserie. Chef Philippe Mille’s gourmet restaurant has a wine list of various origins to improve the balance featuring more than 600 champagne labels. of the finished wine. Many years later, I Relais Châteaux Hôtel Restaurant L’Assiette the Champagne houses adopted the same Champenoise just outside Riems in Tinqueux approach, exploiting the rich diversity of their has three star Michelin restaurant with great by blending wines from different grape food by chef Arnaud Lallement. Suites have varieties, different sites and even different recently been refurbished. to create more harmonious wines. I Les Avisés situated on the hills of , in the heart of the Côte des Blancs area. A magnificent on-vintage Champagne wines are neo-classical mansion, associated with wine traditionally blended from grapes production since 1820. The hotel offers ten Ngrown in different vintages, but they rooms as well as an excellent restaurant run by may also combine wines from a whole range chef Stéphane Rossillon and his wife Nathalie. of crus and varietals – it all depends on the Great wine list and excellent value lunch menu. style of the Champagne house. Non-vintage I Villa Eugène in Epernay. Magnificent 19th blends are the means to achieve a consistent Les Avisés hotel, century villa set in a park. Its 15 rooms have house style regardless of vintage variability. a handsome neo- been newly renovated. An outdoor heated classical mansion in The house style is unique to each brand the heart of the Côte swimming pool. of Champagne. Today many of the smaller des Blancs area houses are looking to vintage variability in order to make their product more true to the terroir. Vintage Champagne is blended from the wines of a single “millésime”: a single outstanding year that the individual producer chooses to declare as a vintage. All Champagne wines must spend at least 15 months ageing in the producer’s cellars. This increases to three years for Vintage Champagne and considerably longer for the Special Cuvées. Time brings out the richness and flavour of Champagne wines. Bonne Santé! O

64 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2017 VISITING CHAMPAGNE I Hôtel de la Paix in Reims. Located in the INFORMATION YOU CAN USE heart of Reims, a stone’s throw from the WHEN TO GO May, June and July are the Cathedral. Spacious rooms and an outstanding best months to enjoy the beautiful green vines Champagne bar offering one of the best and sunny blue skies. Also, the harvest months selections from the region. of September and October I La Chevalée in (3.69 kms from HOW TO GET THERE Fly to Charles de Épernay). A small B&B in the charming village Champagne Gaulle airport and then take the RER train to of Hautvillers, overlooking the vineyards. Family Jacquesson from Jacquesson & Fils a Reims or rent a car at Paris airport on arrival atmosphere, offering two comfortable suites. family-owned WHERE TO STAY Relais Châteaux Hôtel RESTAURANTS Racine Just a few steps away in Dizy, Champagne Restaurant Les Cràyeres. A handsome château from Notre-Dame Cathédral in Reims. Chef in 17 acres of grounds on the outskirts of Reims, Kazuyuki Tanaka creates a fusion between his situated next to the Pommery champagne house. It country’s cuisine and that of France. A unique to biodynamic production with a great respect has an excellent restaurant with two Michelin stars style mixed with rich flavours. for terroir. Excellent Cuvée del Grands Vintages. Source : Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne – 2016 and a more affordable Le Jardin Brasserie. Chef I L’Epicerie Au Bon Manger in Reims. I Champagne Moussé Fils in Cuisles Small Philippe Mille’s gourmet restaurant has a wine list Delicatessen-bistro with artisan and terroir family-owned winery in the heart of the Marne of various origins to improve the balance featuring more than 600 champagne labels. focused food and wines. Wines are offered by river valley in the village of Cuisles. Production of the finished wine. Many years later, I Relais Châteaux Hôtel Restaurant L’Assiette the glass. The dishes are simple and everything focused on Blanc de Noirs Champagne mainly the Champagne houses adopted the same Champenoise just outside Riems in Tinqueux is prepared to order. from Pinot Meunier with very individual approach, exploiting the rich diversity of their has three star Michelin restaurant with great I Le Bocal Wonderful, well-priced fish character. Fiercely committed to environmental terroir by blending wines from different grape food by chef Arnaud Lallement. Suites have restaurant in Reims located at the back of the protection. varieties, different sites and even different recently been refurbished. Poissonnerie des Halles. Good value fish of the I Champagne Jacquesson in Dizy Family-owned vintages to create more harmonious wines. I Les Avisés situated on the hills of Avize, in the day. Excellent selection of shellfish, including winery belonging to the Chiquet brothers. heart of the Côte des Blancs area. A magnificent oysters to accompany an equally good selection Elegant wines with a continuity in style from one on-vintage Champagne wines are neo-classical mansion, associated with wine of Champagne at a reasonable price. year to the next. traditionally blended from grapes production since 1820. The hotel offers ten I Les Berçeaux Restaurant and Bistrot I Champagne AR Leonble in Damery Medium- Ngrown in different vintages, but they rooms as well as an excellent restaurant run by Traditional hotel and restaurant in the centre sized, family-owned winery. Sister-and-brother may also combine wines from a whole range chef Stéphane Rossillon and his wife Nathalie. of Epernay. Chef Patrick Michelon offers Anne and Antoine Malassagne awarded “Haute of crus and varietals – it all depends on the Great wine list and excellent value lunch menu. seasonal creations of classic and contemporary Valeur Environnementale” certification for style of the Champagne house. Non-vintage I Villa Eugène in Epernay. Magnificent 19th dishes. Good value with excellent varied menu environmentally conscious winery. Vineyards blends are the means to achieve a consistent Les Avisés hotel, century villa set in a park. Its 15 rooms have and selective wine list. in , Bisseuil and Damery, with elegant house style regardless of vintage variability. a handsome neo- been newly renovated. An outdoor heated I Restaurant Le Millénaire In the centre of crus from Côte des Blancs. classical mansion in The house style is unique to each brand the heart of the Côte swimming pool. Reims. High-level cuisine created by talented I Champagne Ruinart in Reims Now part of of Champagne. Today many of the smaller des Blancs area Michelin starred chef, Laurent Thibault Laplaige the LVMH, Champagne Ruinart was the first houses are looking to vintage variability in and his son. Ingredients and pairings of flavours champagne house, established in 1729. Each order to make their product more true to the and textures make this cuisine very special. of its cuvées bears the distinctive signature of terroir. Vintage Champagne is blended from CHAMPAGNE HOUSES: Champagne Chardonnay, the house’s emblematic grape the wines of a single “millésime”: a single Jacques Selosse in Avize Anselme Selosse, variety. Historic cellars date back to the Roman outstanding year that the individual producer a small winery and an iconic producer with chalk quarries and are a must visit. chooses to declare as a vintage. highly individual style wines and a profound I Champagne Collet in Ay A cooperative All Champagne wines must spend at least sense of terroir. Said to be the man most with a fascinating history and museum, well 15 months ageing in the producer’s cellars. This responsible for the revolution that’s changing worth visiting. Based in Ay, in the heart of increases to three years for Vintage Champagne the face of Champagne. Champagne. Sources grapes predominantly and considerably longer for the Special Cuvées. I Champagne Eric Rodez in Ambonnay. Small, from Premier and Grand Crus, and as a Time brings out the richness and flavour of iconic Champagne house, ninth generation result, reflects the diversity of within Champagne wines. Bonne Santé! O family winery. Recently converted by Eric Rodez Champagne. Excellent value . O

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