CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Magnificent anemone; Fishing in channel; Chomodoris lochi on lattice coral; Marbled cleaner shrimp: Flatworm; Chromodoris africana nudibranch on sponge

The spacious, purpose- I’d started the morning in Dar-es- past the palm trees, down the built dhow slid through the Salaam and caught a Coastal small beach, and onto the wait- Airways Cessna 182 for the ing dhow. On the leisurely cruise calm . We 20-minute 07:30 flight to Stone out to a reef near , were briefed sitting under Town on the west coast of , acquaintances were made and the shade area of the more commonly known as the loudmouth been-there-done- deck, then kitted up and , for some low-level sun- it-all-in-25-dives Harvard post-grad rise shots of the outlying reefs. Ten Italian diver was quickly identified went through our buddy minutes in a taxi, and I was kitting and avoided as a buddy. checks before a giant up at One Ocean Divers, a mug The wreck itself was a tad dis- stride took us into the 30°C of coffee steaming next to me. appointing. Although the briefing sea. Looking down, I could One Ocean started 16 years by Amani had covered all the ago, and in 1999, it was taken essentials and had been thorough just make out the dive site, over by Aussie Gary Greig and in terms of safety procedures, no an old British lighter, 27 his South African wife, Gail. From indication of the size of the wreck metres below me. It was one dive shop in , had been given. Hence, my initial they now operate from four other thoughts of “With a lifeboat that 9:30 a.m. and the day was resorts around the island. Kit size, it must be a huge wreck” ZanzibarDiving Unguja & going fantastically. was dished out whilst more cof- soon turned to disappointment fee was brewed and then con- when Amani went straight for it. Text and photos sumed, before we were walked It was host to a large school of by Christopher Bartlett 33 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel

CLOCKWISE: Zanzibar’s west coast; Detail of giant clam; Featherstar; Scorpionfish; Bifurcated flatworm; Healthy table corals; Diver with large gorgonian fancoral; Starfish

our best to convince our Italian expert that a Stonefish sting really would spoil his day, it was time to pull on our shorties again. The visibility was around 15 metres, and the site deserved its moniker. Table and plate corals adorned the reef, and we spotted common lionfish, lots of nudis, an undulated moray eel, a hermit crab, huge gorgonian fans, a giant clam, and two blue spotted rays. However, the highlight of the dive was the large remora that took a fancy to Captain Fantastic’s bare leg, his squeals being

Aquarium at Murogo Reef (how many Aquariums are striped eel catfish and long strands of whip there around the world?), our coral (that numbered one less after some bellies were grumbling, and the unusual buoyancy “skills” from the Adriatic). crew laid out a spread fit for Omani Following the dive plan, we then finned away Sultans—once rulers of Zanzibar and the following the contours of the sandy bottom up to some most successful slave and spice traders outcrops of reef, home to a bearded scorpionfish, in Africa. and an assortment of triggerfish, butterflyfish, and After samoosas, spring rolls, chapat- coachmen. tis and fresh fruits and a leisurely spot By the time we’d started puttering along to The of digestion during which we tried

34 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar Stone Town Back on shore in Stone Town, there is a bit of sightseeing to do. Central Stone Town is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways, flanked by crumbling mansions and mosques. The main attrac- tions are the massive Zanzibari wooden doors, Mercury’s restaurant and bar (Freddy of Queen fame is Unguja’s most famous son) by Big Tree, vaguely reminiscent of dolphin the House of Wonders, the chatter as he trashed around Omani Fort, Tippu Tip’s house, trying to avoid its attempted the Hamamni Persian Baths, love bites. Back on the dhow, and the fish market (conser- he was informed that remora vationists beware: you will find like to live on sharks, and that sharks here). The night food one is never very far from the market in Forodhani Gardens other. “I could’ve been killed is alleged, by the same guide- then”, he shrieked. “If only,” book that I used in Dar es the “must-dive” of Unguja. thought I. Salaam, to host the best food With average viz 20 metres or The reefs around Stone Town market in . If the better, there are a multitude are fairly plentiful and other, guidebook was written for flies, of sites to dive, and its calm larger wrecks exist, too. And this is undoubtedly true. conditions make it suitable whilst any aficionado of Bass for novices and experienced Lake would gawk in amaze- Matemwe & Mnemba divers alike. ment at the coral formations Situated close to Mnemba One Ocean’s centre here and the fish life, the reefs have Atoll, a shallow expanse of was on the premises of the suffered greatly from plagues coral reef with a tiny heart- Beach Village where stand- of crown of thorns, draining shaped island on its western ard rooms are comfortable the coral of any colour. fringe surrounded by some and clean. The Shamba step drop-offs, Matemwe is suites are huge and charm-

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Omani Fort; Mosque minaret and Anglican cathedral towers domi- nate the skyline of Stone Town. The cathedral was built over the old slave market; Typical Stone Town alleyway; Tinga tinga artist displays his work; Breakfast view of Stone Town from Hotel Kiponda; Forodhani Gardens, deserted in daylight, becomes a hive of activity in evenings with the food market; Detail and full view of Stone Town’s famous doors

35 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar

a relaxing atmos- After another dhow-diving phere that even lunch taken anchored over a the open water snorkelling site that had several students were divisions of sergeant majors flit- looking like sea- ting over it, it was time to visit soned veterans. Turtle Reef. The site was not If it was a one unbroken reef, but rather haven of peace coral mounds interspersed with and tranquil- sand, where unusual sightings lity on the boat, included two left-eyed flounder, under it, the a huge octopus in some rocks, ocean was buzz- and a grand total of zero turtles ing. With great between eight divers. However, viz, our first site lionfish fans were delighted; was West Bank. there was an abundance of Starting at six these delicate-looking but metres and then venom-carrying members of the rolling down into scorpionfish family. a 50m drop-off, Having returned along the it was covered same road due to extra-low ingly decorated. Located next in reef fish and eels, hard and tides, instead of in the dhow, to the beautiful infinity pool a soft corals, and large schools of beers were cracked around few paces from the beach, it fusiliers. There were the intriguing the poolside bar and new arriv- also had excellent equipment, juvenile black snapper, dam- als greeted like distant cousins, friendly and efficient service. sels in the staghorn coral, royal before dinner and a relatively After a bumpy 45-minute and emperor angelfish, choco- early night under the sleep- drive to the launch site in a late dips, blue spotted rays, inducing whir of the strategically daladala and transfer to anoth- two-bar clown fish. Thumbing positioned fans. If you want to er purpose-built diving dhow, through the fish book back on treat yourself, the Shamba suites the MV Jessica, the divers car- the dhow, it was a case of “Saw are well worth the extra 50 dol- ried on the banter from the that, saw that, saw that, loads lars, and for a special romantic CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Green turtle with Remora fish; Striped eel catfish (above); Color-changing night before. More flat sea and of them, two of them, few of night for two, the honeymoon Spotfin lionfish; Matemwe Beach Village; Rock lobster octopus attempts to attract a mate baking sunshine make for such those, etc…” suite is even more secluded and

36 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar garden eels stick their heads out of the sand and start swaying to the tune of an invisible snake-charmer. Kendwa I caught a ride across the top of the island where there are two resorts to choose from. Nungwi was a dusty vil- lage that has rapidly grown into the most frequented and fashionable (read promoted) resort on the island. It has the liveliest nightclubs and the greatest selec- tion of restaurants, but is also overrun by tourists and has poor swimming beaches. For divers, there are a few local sites, but the best dives involve a long dhow trip to Mnemba. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Kendwa Beach is the longest in the The less-publicised resort of Kendwa north, good for a long walk; Weedy Scorpionfish; Bommie at End has a huge beach of the World dive site; White mouthed moray eel near Kichafi that is ideal for bathing even at low tide, offers a choice of eight places to stay, Porcupinefish swimming slowly ranging from thatched ban- above the table corals, false stone- das at 15 dollars a night, fish hid on the rocks whilst pep- to air-con en-suites, has six pered and white-mouthed morays restaurants, is the location skulked in crevices; paperfish of the only dive centre using swayed gently in rocky recesses, zodiacs (rubber ducks), and rock cod went about their business has some great local reefs. and, looking off into the beautiful By operating with the faster blue, a napoleon wrasse cruised by craft, Scuba-Do can get unperturbed by a school of kingfish. their divers past Nungwi, The last dive was at Mnemba’s round the tip of the island, take on The Aquarium. With a more and onto Mnemba dive sites open seascape, it was like being in just under 30 minutes— in the aquarium rather than look- quicker even than from ing in to it. We drifted on the gentle Matemwe, which overlooks current from one outcrop of coral the atoll. to another, marvelling at the size The dive center is situated of the schools of fusiliers and the next to the excellent Bikini number of green turtles. In total, Beach Bar and very rea- twelve individuals were observed, sonable Sunset Bungalows including three resting on one out- (50 USD for a spacious crop, with remoras being cleaned en-suite double with a tra- by accompanying wrasse attached ditional Zanzibari bed that has its own plunge pool, beach access, and chef. to their carapaces. could sleep four). The BCDs Fully refreshed and as relaxed as a rasta As we eventually moved off the site, the dive weren’t as new as those at in a ganja pile, it was time to blow bubbles master led us to a vast sandy patch. Not the ideal One Ocean, as they were at Mnemba again. Small Wall was home to spot for a safety stop you think, until hundreds of coming up for replacement,

37 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Yellow Margin Moray eel in lattice coral; Coral crab; Durban dancing shrimp; Diver on one of Pemba’s signature walls

cent of a fantasy world. ited islands and the Hunga was the home to even bigger reefs, before touch- schools of snapper, and the impressive ing down in Chake crocodile flathead that can be found in Chake—Pemba’s big- significant numbers resting on the sandy gest town, half-way bottom in gullies and between bommies. up the west coast Rare finds included sea- at the end of a long horses, a Mauritius scor- mangrove-lined creek. pionfish, and a Weedy The airport was a small ramshackle affair, and scorpionfish. Visibility despite a plethora of attractions includ- was between 15 and ing atmospheric ruins, primeval for- 25 metres, and the est, unique bird species, deserted water was still a balmy beaches, and some of the best 29C. diving in the Indian Ocean, Post-diving, one of the Pemba probably hosts less bars would generally have than 100 tourists at any given something going on, and they time. could all be reached by walking Swahili Divers and the but safety was far from overlooked here; each down the beach; the only hazard at Kervan Saray eco-resort on BCD came with a surface marker bouy in the night being either nausea or hysteria brought the northwest coast are run pocket and a briefing on how and when to on by the insincere declarations of local play- by Farhat Jah, a seemingly eccentric mixture deploy it. boys to female tourists. With reduced travelling of Turkish and Indian heritage with a resolutely Local sites included Kichafi and Haji reefs time and morning and afternoon dives with a British upbringing, and his Dutch wife, Cisca. and their extensive lattice coral formations, long shore-break in between, Kendwa is also Known by locals as Mr. Raf—and just Raf to peacock mantis shrimp, paperfish and beard- more suitable for mixed parties made up of anyone else—there is something of a young ed scorpionfish, Nankivell with its giant plate divers and non-divers, children and adults. Basil Fawlty in him that, whilst a little surprising corals in fascinating formations, rays, napoleon initially, is ultimately endearing. wrasse, groupers, and the stunning Hunga Pemba Island The accommodation was built in 2008 from Reef with its interconnected bommies and a The 35-minute half-empty flight yielded some local materials, and quarry where the bricks huge variety of hard and soft corals, reminis- more picture-postcard aerial shots of uninhab- were cut is, well, a stone’s throw away. Any Leaf fish (above); Royal Angelfish (inset) 38 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar als twenty metres down were clearly visible. Backwards roll, hot tub, OK, going down. Equalize, all together? look around. W-O-W. With a capital W. On one side was a wall, like the top of a submerged mountain, covered in hard and soft corals of all descriptions, positively teeming with fish. On the other, the bluest blue, near perfect viz, dropping down, and down, and down. Lucky there’s no point talking under- water, because I was speechless. There was not one moment when there was not something to watch. The surface interval snack of still-

imported goods come by dhow whose carbon footprint is limited to the fire that the crew use to warm their food at night when at sea. It is the best priced on the island with dorm beds and doubles, and good value packages. Food is wholesome and filling, and is locally-sourced and cooked with love by Chef Mzee Ali on charcoal (chocolate biscuit cake a speciality), unlike the LEFT TO RIGHT: other two resorts that ship most supplies in, and is Chake Chake the most affordable Pemba diving option. mosque; Lush Raf pioneered much of the diving from coral bom- Pemba, and has discovered many of the sites mie at Egger’s Ascent; Walls himself, hence the odd names. You’ll find no are every- Aquarium here. Deep Freeze, Slobodan’s Bunker where; Linda’s warm crepes was taken on a (after the ex-Serbian warmonger), Le Reef flatworm; deserted island of fossilized coral Caché (hidden reef in French) and Emilio’s Back Mauritius and white sand before heading Passage to name a few. With a wealth of knowl- scorpionfish off to Slobodan’s Bunker, best edge of the reefs and conditions, years of expe- described by looking down on rience, and a passion for underwater photogra- your hand with digits splayed, phy and videography, and you can pick up a each gap a ravine in the reef full host of tips from Raf, provided you can keep up. of marine life. The RIB zipped across the top of the flat sea, The following day, at Le Trek, taking us to Deep Freeze. The ride had been we watched four Napoleon soothing, re-enforcing the remoteness of this Wrasse pass below us and a small island 50 kilometres off the coast of one of school of Barracuda cruise by as the poorest countries in the world. We passed we kept the wall left shoulder. local in sailing or dugouts, fishing teams Then one of the five other clients of up to ten men swam nets into a circle, slap- started babbling and bubbling ping the water as they went to scare fish into loudly, pointing back to the right. And along Maybe it’s a mix of the remoteness of the the net. A lone spearfisherman here and there in came a six-metre wingspan Manta, accompa- island, the remoteness of Raf’s sites, and a Jacques Cousteau mask and an elbow-grease nied by the largest and ugliest old cobia I have touch of melancholy from sitting at a key- powered spear hunted for dinner. Now it was ever laid my eyes upon. She glided by on the board, but the diving here felt like real adven- time to see if it Pemba lived up to its growing outside to the edge of visibility, then turned, ture, as if all I needed was a red woolly hat reputation. Had I saved the best for last? slowly soaring back, under me and up over the and I was the re-incarnation of Commandant Looking down as we kitted up, the table cor- group. Cousteau.

39 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Zanzibar travel CLOCKWISE: Sunset over Fundu Lagoon; Infinity pool at Fundu Lagoon; Lionfish; Diver with Giant Manta; Cobia catching a ride on manta

The next morning a cocktail of all four gels and sham- poos revived me enough a Model to make it Toby in the down to the viewfinder. dive centre. More stun- The water ning coral. was like a Unguja had been great, but Pemba mirror, as we was awesome. It’s not a place for “big” sped across encounters everydive, but the variety the barracudas and guests. Forty-five minutes later, the driver to Misali Island and its surrounding reefs and volume of small to medium-sized assorted morays at dropped us at Pemba’s main port of for my two last dives on Funga Pacha species is outstanding, with coral crabs, Njao Gap; the mul- where a speedboat was waiting and Coral Mountain. Six of us baled over magnificent partner shrimps, nudi- titude of marine life to whisk us to the lodge, a ten-minute the side and dropped down to 18 metres branchs, anthias, morays galore. I won- at Swiss Reef; and ride away. (the four other guests were only Open dered how I would re-adjust to diving the ghost pipefish The long wooden jetty was impressive, Water certified). More clear blue water, back home? ■ of Victoria’s Secret as was the discreet but warm welcome. more prolific almost to myself by The rooms are large safari tents inside a fish life, and Middle-class lodging day. And when they turned their torches wooden cabin, with a magnificent en- on the last The next port of call was Manta Reef off momentarily on Shimba Wall at night suite shower room, complete with Fundu dive, the mag- Lodge on the northeast tip of the island. and just followed my beam, the reef real- Lagoon’s own range of four shower gels nificent mar- Built on a hill just up from the beach, ly was mine. and shampoos (one of each for the bled cleaner Manta Reef Lodge’s well-appointed Dives were broken up by gourmet pic- morning and the evening, obviously), shrimp, and wooden chalets have superb views of nics on tidal sand islands in cyan waters and a secluded bit of beach for each of a last sighting the lagoon, and are good value for under cloudless skies. It was blissful; more the 16 rooms, the more expensive suites of a crocodile money, if you can afford 130 USD per dream diving. Then it was time to move having their own pool, too. flathead with person full board (excluding dives), given on for the last stop of the trip at luxurious The sunset views over the infinity pool a lionfish and the weekly shipping in of supplies from Fundu Lagoon down south. and across the bay were breath- Kenya, the excellent food, and the qual- taking, and the sun setting directly ity of the environment. Fundu Lagoon luxury behind the jetty bar and into the Over the next two days, accompa- I couldn’t hope to top the past week’s ocean surreal. It being a Saturday, nied by Van and dive master, Ali, I had diving, but the place itself looked impres- dinner was being served on the the depths and the huge schools of big- sive on the web, and the room rates beach, an eat-till-you-burst gour- eye trevally and skunk anemonefish of certainly were at 600 USD a night per met braai of slipper lobster, tiger Fundo Gap South Wall; the unidentified standard double, all inclusive (exclud- prawns, and calamari washed but beautiful cleaner shrimps and metal- ing champagne). After a 70-dollar taxi down with excellent French wines lic looking bubble algae of Manta Point ride back to the airport, I met the Fundu and a few forgotten cocktails for (but no luck with the legendary mantas); transfer minibus and three well-heeled desert.

40 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED