Footprint St Lucia & Dominica n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known sites, from the forested mountains of St Lucia to the marine parks of Dominica. Also includes Fort-de-France

in Martinque. St Dominica Lucia &

1

W I I n Expert author S N Sarah Cameron has L D A W N travelled throughout the Caribbean for DOMINICA A D

R

S MARTINIQUE D over two decades ST LUCIA n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant or tour operator n Comprehensive information to immerse you in St Lucia’s colonial history and Dominica’s traditional culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on the Caribbean

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES Footprint Handbook

Travel: Caribbean UK £7.99 2nd edition USA $12.99 St Lucia & ISBN 978 1 910120 56 9 Dominica

footprinttravelguides.com SARAH CAMERON Planning your trip...... 2

St Lucia ...... 30 Castries...... 31 North of Castries...... 39 Rodney Bay...... 40 Pigeon Island...... 42 North coast ...... 43 East coast to Vieux Fort ...... 44 Vieux Fort...... 48 West coast to Soufrière...... 48 Soufrière...... 50 South of Soufrière...... 51 The southwest ...... 56 Listings...... 58 Martinique Fort-de-France ...... 80

Dominica...... 86 Roseau...... 87 Trafalgar Falls...... 91 Morne Trois Pitons National Park ...... 92 South coast...... 94 Leeward coast...... 95 The north...... 98 Transinsular road...... 98 Atlantic coast...... 99 Listings...... 101 Background...... 116

Practicalities...... 130

Index ...... 141 Footprint Handbook St Lucia & Dominica SARAH CAMERON St Lucia & Dominica St Lucia, Dominica and Martinique are part of the Windward Island chain, a series of volcanic peaks jutting out of the sea. They form a barrier between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea and all have a wild, blustery east coast and a calm, sheltered west coast with lovely natural harbours and picturesque fishing villages. Sulphur fumaroles and hot springs are evidence of the dormant, but not dead, volcanoes, while the volcanic soil provides immense fertility. There are large areas of lush rainforest with national parks protecting places of biodiversity or natural beauty on land and underwater. The islands are a haven for birds with lots of endemic species, while the sea is teeming with fish and other marine life including whales and dolphins. Hikers and birdwatchers are spoilt for choice, with many rewarding trails through forested mountains, following rivers and along beaches. There is always something to do and an action-packed holiday can include any number of watersports, such as canyoning, kayaking, diving and snorkelling.

These islands were all at one time colonized by the French and share a cultural heritage even though St Lucia and Dominica eventually became British before getting their independence. Martinique has remained French and is a part of France: a Département. Imported African slaves brought to work on plantations have added to the rich ethnic mix. This Caribbean melting pot of races and cultures has produced a language known as Kwéyòl, which is widely spoken, with regional differences. St Lucia and Dominica have retained French names for many of their towns and villages, where the older colonial buildings are decorated with gingerbread fretwork and jalousie shutters. They share a Créole cuisine, Roman Catholicism, and music, with Cadence, Zouk, Compas, Bouyou and Soukous heard at Créole festivals and fêtes around the islands. However, the official language is English, cars drive on the left and cricket is the most popular sport. Sarah Cameron To Guadeloupe Dominica Passage Pennville Miami Cabrits National Par k Calibishie Fort Shirley (Ruins) Larieu Dos Wesley 7 D'Âne 10 Marigot Cuba Dublanc Waitukubuli Carib Crayfish National TrailTerritory River Dominican Coulibistrie Central Forest Reserve Sineku Haiti Republic Salisbury Bells Castle Bruce Puerto Layou Pont Petite Rico Layou Cassé Soufrière Dominica Valley Dominica Sylvania 8 Rosalie Martinique Trafalgar Titou St Lucia Roseau Gorge Boiling Lake Loubiere 8 Savane Mahaut Soufrière Berekua Scotts Head 9

Martinique Passage Atlantic Ocean

W

i Basse-Pointe n Pelée d Morne Rouge Martinique w St-Pierre La Trinité a Le Robert r

d Fort-de-France

Les Trois-Ilets I Rivière-Salée Caribbean Sea s Ste-Luce Le Marin l

a

n

d St Lucia Channel

s

Fort Rodney Pointe Hardy Gros Islet Port Rat Island Dauphin Castries 2 Paix Grande Anse 1 Bouche Marigot Bay Bexon La Sorcière Massacré Grande Rivière Morne Dennery Canaries Beaujolais Morne Gimie Praslin St Lucia N Soufrière Edmond Soufrière Bay Petit Forest Reser ve 4 Piton 5 Micoud Gros Piton Etangs Belle Vue Choiseul Laborie 3 20 km Piaye Maria Islands Vieux Fort Nature Reserve 20 miles St Vincent Passage To Guadeloupe Dominica Passage Pennville Miami Cabrits National Par k Calibishie Fort Shirley (Ruins) Larieu Dos Wesley 7 D'Âne 10 Marigot Cuba Dublanc Waitukubuli Carib Crayfish National TrailTerritory River Dominican Coulibistrie Central Forest Reserve Sineku Haiti Republic Salisbury Bells Castle Bruce Puerto Layou Pont Petite Rico Layou Cassé Soufrière Dominica Valley Dominica Sylvania 8 Rosalie Martinique Trafalgar Titou St Lucia Roseau Gorge Boiling Lake Loubiere 8 Savane Mahaut Soufrière Berekua Scotts Head 9

Martinique Passage Atlantic Ocean

W i Basse-Pointe n Pelée historic site. The 18th-century British d Martinique Morne Rouge garrison once housed more than 600 w St-Pierre La Trinité soldiers. Some of the ruins have been a rebuilt, while others lie half-buried in the Le Robert r jungle and are fun to explore. Page 96. d Fort-de-France 0 Waitukubuli National Trail Les Trois-Ilets I Rivière-Salée This coast-to-coast hiking trail winds its Caribbean Sea s way for 115 miles through lush virgin Ste-Luce Le Marin 8 l Soufrière and Scotts rainforest, over steep mountainous a Head ridges, past waterfalls, coastal villages and n down to the sea again. It’s a showcase This marine reserve off the south coast of Dominica’s rich cultural and natural d of Dominica is the most picturesque bay St Lucia Channel heritage and can be completed as a series s on the island both above and below the of day hikes. Page 112. water. Characterized by warm underwater

Fort sulphur vents and abrupt coral reef Rodney Pointe Hardy drop-offs, it’s a site for pelagic fish and Gros Islet Port cetaceans including spinner dolphins and Rat Island Dauphin Castries 2 sperm whales. Page 94. Paix Grande Anse 1 Bouche Marigot Bay Bexon La Sorcière 9 Massacré Grande Rivière Fort Shirley, Cabrits Morne Dennery Canaries Beaujolais Morne Peninsula Gimie Praslin St Lucia N Soufrière Edmond Soufrière Bay Petit Forest Reser ve A former military outpost on a scenic 4 Piton 5 Micoud Gros Piton Etangs Belle Vue peninsula in the north of the island, Fort Choiseul Laborie 3 Shirley is Dominica’s most important 20 km Piaye Maria Islands Vieux Fort Nature Reserve 20 miles St Vincent Passage • 7 When to go

to be missed: the views are spectacular, with majestic mountains, steep valleys and endless shades of green, where you will be serenaded by a huge variety of birds, frogs and other creatures of the forest. A tour to see the leatherback turtles laying their eggs on Grand Anse Beach on St Lucia or Rosalie Bay on When Dominica is a must, as is a whale-watching trip. There are about 20 species of whale and dolphin in the waters around both islands. Diving and snorkelling is rewarding off the leeward coasts, with the added attraction of underwater to go springs off the coast of Dominica. It is well worth making the ferry journey between the two islands, dividing your holiday between St Lucia and Dominica. International flight connections are better to St Lucia, so start and finish there. Martinique lies between the two and a stopover in Fort-de-France is required one way, but the return can be done in one go. There are flights if you prefer, but the scenic benefits of the ferry are well worth the extra time. For details of Express des Iles services, see page 132.

ON THE ROAD Best activities § Birdwatching in the Edmund Forest, deep in the tropical nature reserve, page 55. § Canyoning in Titou Gorge where a narrow channel ends in a torrential waterfall, page 93. § Diving in the marine park at Soufrière; a pristine underworld adventure, page 51. § Diving or snorkelling off Soufrière and Scott’s Head, swimming through the bubbles of underwater hot springs at a site known as Champagne, page 94. § Hiking some or all of the Waitukubuli National Trail, taking in Dominica’s dense forests, volcanic hills, rivers and waterfalls, page 112. § Kiteboarding or windsurfing at Anse de Sables, where wind conditions are exciting but you won’t get carried out to the ocean, page 47. § Sailing from Rodney Bay down the west coast for a view of the cliffs, forests and majestic Pitons, page 76. § Turtle watching on Grand Anse, an overnight vigil of the leatherbacks hauling themselves up the sand to lay their eggs, page 42. § Watching a Test Match at St Lucia’s Beausejour Cricket Ground, one of the best pitches in the West Indies, page 73. § Whale watching in Soufrière Bay with playful dolphins leaping in and out of your wake, page 114.

10 ● Planning your trip Route planner When to go

When to go … and when not to

Climate The climate is tropical. The volcanic mountains and forests of St Lucia, Dominica and Martinique attract more rain than some other, more low-lying islands in the Caribbean. The driest and coolest time of year is usually December-April, coinciding with the winter peak in tourism as those from Europe and the US escape to the sun. However, there can be showers, which keep things green. Temperatures can fall to 20°C during the day, depending on altitude, but are normally in the high 20s, tempered by cooling trade winds. The mean annual temperature is about 26°C. At other times of the year the temperature rises only slightly, but greater humidity can make it feel hotter if you are away from the coast, where the northeast trade winds are a cooling influence. The main climate hazard is hurricane season (See page 12), which runs from June to November. Tropical storms can cause flooding and mudslides, the latest being Tropical Storm Erica which battered Dominica at the end of August 2015.

Festivals You can time your visit to coincide with one of the islands’ festivals. On St Lucia, Carnival is celebrated in July with colourful parades and pageants, music and competitions; visitors are welcome to join in. Dominica’s carnival, which takes place in February/March, is one of the friendliest in the Caribbean and is a celebration of calypso, building up to two days of street jump-up. The greatest influx of visitors is usually for St Lucia’s annual Jazz Festival in May, when open- air concerts by internationally renowned artists are held around the island. In October, Dominica hosts the World Créole Music Festival attracting artists from across the globe. Other events to consider are Test Matches, when cricket fans travel to support their team, or the arrival of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers in the first week of December, when Rodney Bay on St Lucia fills with yachts and their crew, hell-bent on enjoying themselves on terra firma. For further details, see page 70 for St Lucia’s festivals and page 109 for those in Dominica.

Planning your trip When to go ● 11 Castries

Castries one of the Caribbean’s busiest port cities; spreading from the seashore up steep hillsides St Lucia The picturesque capital, Castries, is set on a natural harbour against a mountainous background. Ships of all sizes come in here: mammoth cruise Very popular as both a family holiday destination ships, cargo and container ships, the ferry to Dominica and the French Antilles, yachts and brightly painted fishing boats, all jostling for space at their respective and a romantic paradise for honeymooners, St Lucia berths. The centre of Castries is small enough to walk around, but to get to (pronounced ‘Loosha’) offers something for everyone. outlying districts you can catch a bus (minivan) or call a cab. There are lots of car Its beaches are golden or black sand, some with the hire companies if you want to drive yourself.

spectacular setting of the Pitons as a backdrop, and HMarket area and around many are favoured by turtles as a nesting site. Offshore Largely rebuilt after being destroyed by four major fires, the last in 1948, the city’s commercial centre and government offices are built of concrete. Only the there is good diving and snorkelling, with a marine buildings to the south of Derek Walcott Square and behind Brazil Street were park along part of the west coast. Rodney Bay is one saved. Here you will see late 19th- and early 20th-century French-style wooden of the best marinas in the West Indies and windsurfing and other watersports are available. The mountainous interior is outstandingly beautiful and there are several forest reserves to protect the St Lucian parrot and other wildlife. Sightseeing opportunities include sulphur springs, colonial fortifications and plantation tours. St Lucia has a rich cultural heritage, having alternated between the French and English colonial powers, both of whom used African slaves, and has produced some of the finest writers and artists in the region. The island has the distinction of having produced two Nobel prize winners, the highest per capita number of Nobel Laureates ever, anywhere.

Best for Empty beaches  Nightlife  Watersports 30 ●● St Lucia Food & drink Castries

Castries one of the Caribbean’s busiest port cities; spreading from the seashore up steep hillsides The picturesque capital, Castries, is set on a natural harbour against a mountainous background. Ships of all sizes come in here: mammoth cruise ships, cargo and container ships, the ferry to Dominica and the French Antilles, yachts and brightly painted fishing boats, all jostling for space at their respective berths. The centre of Castries is small enough to walk around, but to get to outlying districts you can catch a bus (minivan) or call a cab. There are lots of car hire companies if you want to drive yourself.

HMarket area and around Largely rebuilt after being destroyed by four major fires, the last in 1948, the city’s commercial centre and government offices are built of concrete. Only the buildings to the south of Derek Walcott Square and behind Brazil Street were saved. Here you will see late 19th- and early 20th-century French-style wooden

Essential St Lucia Finding your feet Getting around

Hewanorra, the international airport, Hiring a car is the best way of exploring is in the south of the island, about the island, but remember that the two hours’ drive from Castries and the mountain roads into the forests are beach resorts in the northwest. The very poor. A 4WD or high-clearance smaller short-haul George F Charles vehicle is recommended. If you don’t Airport is on the Vigie Peninsula, just want to drive yourself, there are tours outside Castries, from where you can to anywhere you might want to go get a taxi or bus transfer to the capital. and guides can always be arranged. If you are arriving on the international The Forestry Department (page 75) ferry from Dominica, the terminal is on and Heritage Tours (page 78) are the south side of Castries’ harbour, a well placed to organize customized short taxi ride from any of the hotels in itineraries. Minibuses provide a and around the capital. reasonable public transport system but will not get you far off the beaten track. Weather Castries

January February March April May June 29°C 29°C 30°C 30°C 31°C 31°C " 22°C! 22°C! 22°C ! 23°C ! 24°C ) 25°C 95mm 69mm 60mm 74mm 88mm 131mm

July August September October November December 31°C 31°C 32°C 31°C 30°C 30°C ) 24°C* 24°C) 24°C * 23°C* 23°C ) 22°C Best for 171mm 219mm 200mm 250mm 222mm 138mm Empty beaches  Nightlife  Watersports 30 ● St Lucia Castries ● 31 St Lucia Pointe du Cap Smuggler’s Cove Pointe Hardy Cap Estate Pigeon Island Historic Park Anse Lavoutte Fort Rodney 20 32 Cas-en-Bas 10 Comerette Point Gros Islet Massade Anse Comerette Rodney Bay Beausejour Anse Lapins Cricket Ground Espérance Harbour 34 Rodney Bay

Bois d’Orange Labrellotte Bay 13 21 Monchy Cap Marquis Marisule Port 8 Dauphin Estate Grande Choc Bay Rivière Cassimi Point N Rat Island 14 Marquis Vide Bouteille Point 5 River Gablewoods Union Morne Vigie Beach 11 Mall Agricultural Monier Tanti Point Station D'Estrées Point 1 12 31 Paix Bouche Vigie Morne Chaubourg 2 km La Toc Bay Castries Grande La Toc Point Anse 2 miles Coubaril Point Morne Fortune Babonneau Desbarra Fort Fond Tortue Point Goodlands Charlotte Fond Latisab Creole Park Cul de Cacao Fond Where to stay 15 Assor Chassin Anse Sac Bay Rain Forest Adventures Anse Chastanet Massacré Hess Oil Forestière Castries Waterworks Louvet Point Terminal Forest Reserve & Jade Mountain 30 9 23 Anse Louvet Marigot Bay Auberge Seraphine 1 Roseau 6 Piton La Sorcière Flore Povert Pt Bay Guest House 10

Bay l

La Croix i a St Lucia Distillery Maingot r Balenbouche Estate 2 T

Bexon e r Au Leon Vanard o Boucan Hotel & Restaurant 4 Massacré l Grande Jacmel Ravine F n La Caye o Rivière Mamelles Pt R Sarot it The Boiled Frog 5 o Poisson P Fond d’Or Nature Reserve s Anse La e & Historical Park

Pointe a Fond Calabash Cove 8 il u

Raye a D'Or Fond D'Or Bay La Ville r Ri River T Casa del Vega 12 v e Morne

r e e l Anse Cochon r r s Beaujolais Dennery a I ' Chez Camille 18 B Plas Kassav l Morne Dennery Bay 33 e Treetop La Combe d Errard Adventure Coco Palm 34 Anse Jambette Millet e Linnis Point r Park r Crystals 17 a Canaries B Anse La Fregate Island East Winds 13 Liberté Grand Bois Nature Reserve Forest Praslin Eudovic’s Guest House 15 Blanche Mamiku Gardens Praslin Bay Point 3 Fond Doux Holiday Morne Tabac Trou Gras Plantation 16 17 (2224 ft) Mon Repos Point Anse Foxgrove Inn 3 Grand Chastanet Anse Caille 24 Diamond Falls Quillesse Patience Chapeau Golden Arrow Inn 31 Point 30 Botanical Gardens Forest Reserve Mahaut & Mineral Baths Morne Gimie Soufrière (3118 ft) Henry’s La Panache 32 18 Soufrière Bay Sulphur Edmond Latille Fond Bay Inn on the Bay 6 Morne Coubaril Estate Springs Forest Reserve Gardens Italian Guesthouse 20 19 29 Port Volet Fond St Petit Piton Micoud JJ’s Paradise 23 Rabot Estate Jacques 27 Fond Doux Morne Grand Ti Rocher La Dauphine Estate 22 4 7 22 16 Troumassé Anse des Pitons Estate Magazin Blanchard Ladera Resort 7 Tet Paul Nature Trail Etangs (2022 ft) Bay Fond Gens Libre Fond Doux Holiday Plantatio n Desruisseaux La Haut 24 Monzie Gros Piton Victoria La Mirage Guesthouse 18 Anse L'Ivrogne Dacretin Saltibus Belle Vue Anse Jnct Ger Point Lamarre Mirage Beach 26 Caraibe Industry Point Banse Marigot Beach Club 9 Anse L'slet Gertrine Pierrot Rendezvous 11 Sauzay Stonefield Estate Resort 19 Choiseul Savannes Bay Augier Nature Reserve Sugar Beach 27 Balenbouche Laborie The Reef 25 2 Ti Kaye Resort & Spa 33 Piaye Laborie 26 Bay Vieux Maria Islands Tropical Breeze 10 Fort 25 Nature Reserve Black Villa Beach Cottages 14 Bay 28 Anse de Sables Villa Caribbean Dream 28

Caesar Point Windjammer Landing 21 Cap Moule à Chique Zamacá 29

32 ● St Lucia Castries Essentials Castries

St Lucia Pointe du Cap Smuggler’s Cove Pointe Hardy Cap Estate Best views on St Lucia Pigeon Island Historic Park Anse Lavoutte Castries from the Inniskilling Fort Rodney 20 32 Cas-en-Bas 10 Comerette Point Monument, page 38 Gros Islet Massade Anse Comerette Rodney Bay Beausejour Anse Lapins Morne Gimie from Cap Moule à 34 Cricket Ground Espérance Harbour Rodney Bay Chique lighthouse, page 48 Bois d’Orange Soufrière and the west coast from Labrellotte Bay 13 21 Monchy Cap Marquis Marisule Port 8 Dauphin the top of Gros Piton, page 54 Estate Grande Choc Bay Rivière Cassimi Point N The Pitons from Ladera Resort, Rat Island 14 Marquis Vide Bouteille Point 5 River Gablewoods Union Morne page 61 Vigie Beach 11 Mall Agricultural Monier Tanti Point Station D'Estrées Point 1 12 31 Paix Bouche Praslin Bay from the Foxgrove Inn, Vigie Morne Chaubourg 2 km La Toc Bay Castries Grande page 75 La Toc Point Anse 2 miles Coubaril Point Morne Fortune Babonneau Desbarra Tortue Point Goodlands Fort Fond Charlotte Fond Fond Latisab Creole Park Where to stay Cul de Cacao Chassin Best empty beaches 15 Assor Anse Sac Bay Rain Forest Adventures Anse Chastanet Massacré Hess Oil Forestière Castries Waterworks Louvet Point Grand Anse, page 40 Terminal Forest Reserve & Jade Mountain 30 9 23 Anse Louvet Marigot Bay Auberge Seraphine 1 Anse Lavoutte, page 44 Roseau 6 Piton La Sorcière Flore Povert Pt Bay Guest House 10 Anse de Sables, page 47

Bay l

La Croix i a St Lucia Distillery Maingot r Balenbouche Estate 2 T Maria Islands, page 47 Bexon e r Au Leon Vanard o Boucan Hotel & Restaurant 4 Massacré l Grande Jacmel Ravine F Laborie, page 57 n La Caye o Rivière Mamelles Pt R Sarot it The Boiled Frog 5 o Poisson P Fond d’Or Nature Reserve s Anse La e & Historical Park

Pointe a Fond Calabash Cove 8 il u

Raye a D'Or Fond D'Or Bay La Ville r Ri River T Casa del Vega 12 v e Morne r e e l Anse Cochon r r s Beaujolais Dennery a I Best local eats ' Chez Camille 18 B Plas Kassav l Morne Dennery Bay 33 e Treetop La Combe d Errard Adventure Coco Palm 34 Castries central market vendors, Anse Jambette Millet e Linnis Point r Park r Crystals 17 a page 35 Canaries B Anse La Fregate Island East Winds 13 Liberté Grand Bois Nature Reserve Dennery fish fest on the beach at Forest Praslin Eudovic’s Guest House 15 Blanche Mamiku Gardens Praslin Bay Point weekends, page 45 3 Fond Doux Holiday Morne Tabac Trou Gras Plantation 16 Anse La Raye fish fry on Fridays, 17 (2224 ft) Mon Repos Point Anse Foxgrove Inn 3 Grand Chastanet Anse page 49 Caille 24 Diamond Falls Quillesse Mahaut Patience Chapeau Golden Arrow Inn 31 Point 30 Botanical Gardens Forest Reserve Roots Bar, page 68 & Mineral Baths Morne Gimie Soufrière (3118 ft) Henry’s La Panache 32 18 Martha’s Tables, page 69 Soufrière Bay Sulphur Edmond Latille Fond Bay Inn on the Bay 6 Morne Coubaril Estate Springs Forest Reserve Gardens Italian Guesthouse 20 19 29 Port Volet Fond St Petit Piton Micoud JJ’s Paradise 23 Rabot Estate Jacques 27 Fond Doux Morne Grand Ti Rocher La Dauphine Estate 22 4 7 22 16 Troumassé Anse des Pitons Estate Magazin Blanchard Ladera Resort 7 Tet Paul Nature Trail Etangs (2022 ft) Bay Fond Gens Libre Fond Doux Holiday Plantatio n Desruisseaux La Haut 24 Monzie Gros Piton Victoria La Mirage Guesthouse 18 Fact file Anse L'Ivrogne Dacretin Saltibus Belle Vue Anse Jnct Ger Point Lamarre Mirage Beach 26 Location One of the Windward Islands Caraibe Industry Point Banse Marigot Beach Club 9 chain lying between the Atlantic Ocean Anse L'slet Gertrine Pierrot Rendezvous 11 and the Caribbean Sea, with Martinique Sauzay Stonefield Estate Resort 19 Choiseul Savannes Bay to the north and St Vincent to the south Augier Nature Reserve Sugar Beach 27 Balenbouche Laborie The Reef 25 Capital Castries, 14° 1’′0” N, 60° 59’ 0” W 2 Ti Kaye Resort & Spa 33 Piaye Laborie 26 Time zone Atlantic standard time. Bay Vieux Maria Islands Tropical Breeze 10 Fort 25 Nature Reserve GMT -4hrs, EST +1hr Black Villa Beach Cottages 14 Bay 28 Anse Telephone country code +758 de Sables Villa Caribbean Dream 28 Currency East Caribbean dollar, EC$ Caesar Point Windjammer Landing 21 Cap Moule à Chique Zamacá 29

St Lucia Essentials ● 33 North of Castries

ON THE ROAD peninsula a military stronghold. The Vigie Lighthouse was built in 1914, although a lookout of sorts was used as far back as 1768. Its light can be seen 30 miles out The port of Castries, then and now to sea and the 36-foot tower overlooks 18th- and 19th-century barracks, military The first settlement and fortification built by the French in the 18th century ruins and other historic buildings. Vigie Beach is a lovely strip of sand with plenty was at Vigie, stretching along the coast to Choc Bay, and known as Petit of shade, popular and cleaned regularly. Its only drawback is that it runs parallel Carénage. However, in 1768-1771 the main fort was moved up to Morne with the airport runway, but that is compensated by the lack of hotels (except Fortune and the government buildings, including Government House, at one end). The airport is used for inter-island flights with small aircraft, so they followed. The town then relocated to its present position and was eventually don’t take long to take off or land and the noise soon passes. named Castries by the British, after the Maréchal de Castries a French governor in 1780, having briefly enjoyed the name of Felicité Ville during the North of Castries French Revolution and the aftermath. In the second half of the 19th century the island’s tranquil interior with good hiking and an Atlantic turtle-nesting beach Britain decided to develop the port of Castries for coal bunkering. Welsh coal was brought to St Lucia and sold on to passing steam ships, so that by the turn The part of the island to the north of Castries is the principal resort area; it of the century Castries was the 14th most important port in the world in terms contains the best beaches and the hotels are largely self-contained. It is also the of tonnage handled. However, by the 1930s oil had superseded coal and the driest part of the island. Inland are a number of interesting places to visit. port declined. During the Second World War two ships in the harbour were torpedoed by a German submarine. A third torpedo missed its target: an Union Agricultural Station Alcoa ship carrying a full cargo of TNT which might have blown the whole of The John Compton highway leaves Castries past Vigie and follows the curves of Castries to smithereens. In 1948 most of the town was engulfed in flames and Vigie Beach and Choc Bay. Where the road leaves the bay and just before it crosses many buildings destroyed when a fire started in a tailor’s shop, although the Choc River, a right turn to Babonneau will take you past the Union Agricultural fortunately there was no loss of life. Further fires caused damage in 1951 and Station (about one mile), the site of the Forestry Department Headquarters 1963, when about a third of the town was burned down. Castries officially i T758-468 5649, www.forestryeeunit.blogspot.co.uk. There is a visitor centre, became a city in 1967. Nowadays, buoyed by tourism, the port is again nature trail and a small, well-run Union Zoo, where you can see indigenous thriving, receiving some of the largest craft in the world: cruise ships. species such as the agouti and the endemic St Lucia parrot as well as iguanas. The Forestry Department organizes hiking across the island. governor are buried here, as well as military personnel and civilians, many of whom died of malaria and yellow fever. Babonneau and Fond Assau The most spectacular view is from the Inniskilling Monument at the far side of Continuing inland you come to rural villages in St Lucia’s heartland, most of the college (just beyond the old Combermere barracks) where you get a fine view them unaffected by tourism. Babonneau and Fond Assau are villages where it of the town, coast, mountains and Martinique. It was here in 1796 that General is believed the last group of African slaves were brought, as there are still strong Moore launched an attack on the French who, together with the Brigands had African traditions. At Fond Assau is the Fond Latisab Créole Park i T758-450 5461, gained control of the island after defeating the British at Vieux Fort and Rabot. Sun-Fri, tours by appointment, a 10-acre working farm producing honey, cocoa The steep slopes give some idea of how fierce the two days of fighting must have and spices, such as nutmeg and cinnamon. Visitors are given demonstrations been. As a rare honour, the 27th Inniskilling Fusiliers were allowed to fly their of traditional methods of agriculture and other skills. Drumming is still used as regimental flag for one hour after they took the fortress before the Union Jack was a means of communication, while wood cutting is done with a two-man saw raised. The monument was built at the eastern end of Fort Charlotte in 1932 to accompanied by drums, singing and a chak chak band. Crayfishing is done using commemorate the event. Sir Arthur Lewis, Nobel Laureate in Economics, is buried bamboo pots and you can see how they make farine, or flour, from cassava before in front of the monument. making it into bread.

Vigie Rain Forest Adventures Castries harbour is protected on three sides by hills, of which the Vigie Peninsula Chassin, T758-458 5151, www.rainforestadventure.com, closed Mon, Fri-Sat, online is the northern promontory. The word Vigie comes from the French term for prices US$45-95, depending on activity, hotel transfers available, booking essential. having someone posted as lookout and both the French and the English saw its Further along the road, Rain Forest Adventures is a popular attraction, particularly strategic advantage and built defensive military positions there, making the entire with cruise ship visitors, where you are taken up the side of La Sorcière hill in a

38 ● St Lucia Castries North of Castries

peninsula a military stronghold. The Vigie Lighthouse was built in 1914, although a lookout of sorts was used as far back as 1768. Its light can be seen 30 miles out to sea and the 36-foot tower overlooks 18th- and 19th-century barracks, military ruins and other historic buildings. Vigie Beach is a lovely strip of sand with plenty of shade, popular and cleaned regularly. Its only drawback is that it runs parallel with the airport runway, but that is compensated by the lack of hotels (except at one end). The airport is used for inter-island flights with small aircraft, so they don’t take long to take off or land and the noise soon passes.

North of Castries the island’s tranquil interior with good hiking and an Atlantic turtle-nesting beach The part of the island to the north of Castries is the principal resort area; it contains the best beaches and the hotels are largely self-contained. It is also the driest part of the island. Inland are a number of interesting places to visit.

Union Agricultural Station The John Compton highway leaves Castries past Vigie and follows the curves of Vigie Beach and Choc Bay. Where the road leaves the bay and just before it crosses the Choc River, a right turn to Babonneau will take you past the Union Agricultural Station (about one mile), the site of the Forestry Department Headquarters i T758-468 5649, www.forestryeeunit.blogspot.co.uk. There is a visitor centre, nature trail and a small, well-run Union Zoo, where you can see indigenous species such as the agouti and the endemic St Lucia parrot as well as iguanas. The Forestry Department organizes hiking across the island.

Babonneau and Fond Assau Continuing inland you come to rural villages in St Lucia’s heartland, most of them unaffected by tourism. Babonneau and Fond Assau are villages where it is believed the last group of African slaves were brought, as there are still strong African traditions. At Fond Assau is the Fond Latisab Créole Park i T758-450 5461, Sun-Fri, tours by appointment, a 10-acre working farm producing honey, cocoa and spices, such as nutmeg and cinnamon. Visitors are given demonstrations of traditional methods of agriculture and other skills. Drumming is still used as a means of communication, while wood cutting is done with a two-man saw accompanied by drums, singing and a chak chak band. Crayfishing is done using bamboo pots and you can see how they make farine, or flour, from cassava before making it into bread.

Rain Forest Adventures Chassin, T758-458 5151, www.rainforestadventure.com, closed Mon, Fri-Sat, online prices US$45-95, depending on activity, hotel transfers available, booking essential. Further along the road, Rain Forest Adventures is a popular attraction, particularly with cruise ship visitors, where you are taken up the side of La Sorcière hill in a

St Lucia North of Castries ● 39 Listings

Listings St Lucia

Tourist information $$$ Casa del Vega South side of Vigie Peninsula, There are tourist information centres T758-459 0780, www.casadelvega.com. at George F Charles airport and in the Rooms and studios, also 3- to duty-free shopping centres at Pointe 5-bedroom apartments, kitchen Seraphine and Place Carenage where facilities, on a little cove on Clarke Av the cruise ships come in. overlooking the harbour, 96 steps down to little beach, watersports, spa Tip... treatments, restaurant, about a mile The website www.stlucianow.com to Vigie Beach and the airport. Helpful has lots of useful and up-to-date owners, nothing is too much trouble. information. $$ Eudovic’s Guest House Goodlands, T758-452 2747, Where to stay [email protected]. On the same premises as Eudovic’s Castries p31, map p34 Studio, see page 37, 10 mins from city $$$$ Rendezvous centre. The family of woodcarvers Malabar Beach, T758-457 7900, and artists run this simple, friendly www.theromanticholiday.com. guesthouse and have made all the Medium-sized, pretty, all-inclusive furniture from local wood. hotel for couples at the end of Vigie Beach beyond the cemetery, very North of Castries p39, map p32 romantic, specializes in weddings $$$$ Calabash Cove and honeymoons. Good value in Bonaire Estate, Marisule, T758-456 3500, that all sports, even scuba diving, are www.calabashcove.com. included, food is good and drinks are Very attractive beachfront property branded. Service is excellent, friendly on a small cove, intimate and relaxing, and attentive. excellent service and food. All hillside $$$ Auberge Seraphine rooms and beachfront cottages have Vigie Marina, T758-453 2073, sea view, lovely for sunset watching. www.aubergeseraphine.com. All-inclusive option. A gleaming white, modern hotel on $$$$ East Winds the edge of the harbour close to Vigie Labrelotte Bay, T758-452 8212, airport. 22 rooms on 2 levels, terrace www.eastwinds.com. and pool with good views of the boats. Set in gorgeous gardens covering Attractive and well run, very pleasantly 12 acres, this small and elegant all- located. Flocks of egrets fly in to roost inclusive hotel has 30 rooms, most of here in the trees by the lily pond. which are in pretty pastel-coloured Good restaurant. bungalows in traditional style. There are lovely views of the bay and beach

58 ● St Lucia Listings Listings

Listings St Lucia and gourmet food, romantic dining, $$ Golden Arrow Inn piano bar and afternoon tea. Gablewoods Mall, on highway to Gros Islet, T758-450 1832, $$$$ Villa Beach Cottages http://goldenarrowinnslu.com. Choc Beach, T758-450 2884, Simple, pleasant rooms, private www.villabeachcottages.com. bathroom, modern house with balcony Under same ownership as La Dauphine and veranda, view down to the bay. Estate. Beachfront villa suites Within walking distance of beach and sandwiched between the main road and bus, friendly host, complimentary the sea next to The Wharf restaurant, breakfast, Golden Sun restaurant and with gingerbread fretwork, wooden bar on the property, parking. shutters and jalousies, 1 or 2 bedrooms with 4-poster beds, kitchen, living room, Rodney Bay p40, map p41 balcony with hammocks, Derek Walcott used to spend his holidays here before it $$$$ Coco Palm became so glamorous. Rodney Bay Blvd, T758-456 2800, www.coco-resorts.com. $$$$-$$$ Windjammer Landing Excellent location close to beach, Labrellotte Bay, T758-452 0913, restaurants, nightlife and other activities www.windjammer-landing.com. within a stone’s throw. A variety of A lovely hillside setting but isolated, 30- comfortable rooms and prices in min walk to a bus route. Villa complex 2 sections, the more expensive block with hotel facilities, 1-bedroom suites, 2- set back from the road is quieter, good to 4-bedroom villas spread out with own for families or couples, all-inclusive and plunge pool, all white and multilevel other packages available, reasonably in the style of a southern Spanish priced restaurant, spa. Friendly service. development. Tennis and watersports, on a much-improved beach, $$$$-$$$ Bay Gardens honeymoon, family, diving packages. Rodney Bay, T758-457 8006, The food is good, international and www.baygardensresorts.com. aimed at pleasing everybody, families The resort comprises 3 hotels: Beach well catered for. Resort, Hotel and Inn, catering for families, couples and business travellers. $$$ The Boiled Frog The flagship property is the Beach Choc Bay, T758-720 8843, Resort, with a great location on Reduit www.theboiledfrog.net. Beach. rooms and suites which can Canadian-owned 2-room guesthouse be connected to make 2-bedroom by the beach with supermarket, bank, apartments, wheelchair accessibility, buses the other side of the road. Good smart and upmarket, security staff on location within easy reach of both the beach deter hustlers. The 2 other Castries and Rodney Bay. Comfortable properties in the village are convenient rooms with great view from deck. and comfortable. Evening meals can be taken with the family and their dog or The Wharf is just along the sand.

St Lucia Listings ● 59 St Lucia history

Background St Lucia & A sprint through history Early history St Lucia was first settled by Arawaks in AD 200. By AD 800 their culture had been superseded by that of the Amerindian Caribs who called the Dominica island ‘Iouanalao’ and ‘Hewanorra’ meaning ‘Island of the Iguanas’. 1502 It is believed that Christopher Columbus sailed past St Lucia but missed it St Lucia completely. History ...... 117 Culture...... 121 1520 A Vatican globe marked the island as Santa Lucía, suggesting that it was Land and environment. . . . 122 claimed by Spain. Dominica 1605 The first European attempts to settle the island of Iouanalao, or Hewanorra, History ...... 125 were repulsed by the Caribs. There is evidence of a Dutch expedition and also the Culture...... 127 arrival of 67 Englishmen en route to Guiana. Land and environment. . . . 127 1638 The first recorded settlement was made by English from Bermuda and St Kitts but the colonists were killed by the Caribs about three years later. 1642 The King of France, claiming sovereignty over the island, ceded it to the French West India Company. 1650 The French West India Company sold the island to M Houel and M Du Parquet. There were several attempts by the Caribs to expel the French and several governors were murdered. 1660 The British began to renew their claim to the island and fighting for possession began in earnest. The settlers, mostly French, developed a plantation economy based on slave labour. 1762 British forces under Admiral George Rodney took St Lucia, only to lose it again in 1763. 1778 War erupted again. Admiral Rodney wrote that St Lucia was a far greater prize than neighbouring Martinique because of its excellent harbour, then called Carénage (now Castries). 1782 Admiral Rodney led the English fleet in an epic assault on the French navy, on its way to attack Jamaica. The Battle of Les Saintes took place around the French islands of Les Saintes and resulted in the death of some 14,000 French soldiers and sailors when Rodney broke the French formation, allowing his ships to encircle and fire broadsides into the helpless French vessels. The battle marked a turning point in the political balance of power and recognized British supremacy in the West Indies. However, in the subsequent Treaty of Versailles, St Lucia was returned to France and fighting continued intermittently.

● 116 St Lucia history

St Lucia A sprint through history

Early history St Lucia was first settled by Arawaks in AD 200. By AD 800 their culture had been superseded by that of the Amerindian Caribs who called the island ‘Iouanalao’ and ‘Hewanorra’ meaning ‘Island of the Iguanas’. 1502 It is believed that Christopher Columbus sailed past St Lucia but missed it completely. 1520 A Vatican globe marked the island as Santa Lucía, suggesting that it was claimed by Spain. 1605 The first European attempts to settle the island of Iouanalao, or Hewanorra, were repulsed by the Caribs. There is evidence of a Dutch expedition and also the arrival of 67 Englishmen en route to Guiana. 1638 The first recorded settlement was made by English from Bermuda and St Kitts but the colonists were killed by the Caribs about three years later. 1642 The King of France, claiming sovereignty over the island, ceded it to the French West India Company. 1650 The French West India Company sold the island to M Houel and M Du Parquet. There were several attempts by the Caribs to expel the French and several governors were murdered. 1660 The British began to renew their claim to the island and fighting for possession began in earnest. The settlers, mostly French, developed a plantation economy based on slave labour. 1762 British forces under Admiral George Rodney took St Lucia, only to lose it again in 1763. 1778 War erupted again. Admiral Rodney wrote that St Lucia was a far greater prize than neighbouring Martinique because of its excellent harbour, then called Carénage (now Castries). 1782 Admiral Rodney led the English fleet in an epic assault on the French navy, on its way to attack Jamaica. The Battle of Les Saintes took place around the French islands of Les Saintes and resulted in the death of some 14,000 French soldiers and sailors when Rodney broke the French formation, allowing his ships to encircle and fire broadsides into the helpless French vessels. The battle marked a turning point in the political balance of power and recognized British supremacy in the West Indies. However, in the subsequent Treaty of Versailles, St Lucia was returned to France and fighting continued intermittently.

Background St Lucia history ● 117 Essential A-Z

Essentials A-Z

Accident and emergency Vaccinations It is important to confirm your primary T911 in St Lucia, T911 or 999 in Dominica. courses and boosters are up to date. It is also advisable to vaccinate against Electricity tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A. 220 volts, 50 cycles. A few hotels are Vaccines sometimes advised are 110 v, 60 cycles. Most sockets take 3-pin hepatitis B, rabies and diphtheria. square plugs (UK standard), but some Yellow fever vaccination is not required take 2-pin round plugs or flat US plugs. unless you are coming directly from Adaptors generally available in hotels. an infected country in Africa or South America. Although cholera vaccination Embassies and consulates is largely ineffective, immigration officers may ask for proof of such For a full list of embassies and consulates vaccination if coming from a country in St Lucia and Dominica and St Lucian where an epidemic has occurred. Check and Dominican offices abroad, see www.who.int for updates. Malaria is not http://embassy.goabroad.com. a danger in St Lucia or Dominica. Health Health risks Travel in St Lucia and Dominica poses The most common affliction of travellers no health risk to the average visitor to any country is probably diarrhoea provided sensible precautions are taken. and the same is true of St Lucia and It is important to see your GP or travel Dominica. Tap water is good in most clinic at least 6 weeks before departure areas, but bottled water is widely for general advice on any travel risks and available and recommended. Swimming necessary vaccinations. Try phoning a in sea or river water that has been specialist travel clinic if your own doctor contaminated by sewage can be a is unfamiliar with health conditions cause of diarrhoea; ask locally if it is safe. in the Windward Islands. Check with Diarrhoea may also be caused by viruses, your national health service or health bacteria (such as E-coli), protozoal (such insurance on coverage in the islands as giardia), salmonella and cholera. It and take a copy of your insurance policy may be accompanied by vomiting or with you. Also get a dental check, know by severe abdominal pain. Any kind your own blood group and if you suffer of diarrhoea responds well to the a long-term condition such as diabetes replacement of water and salts. Sachets or epilepsy, obtain a Medic Alert of rehydration salts can be bought in bracelet/necklace (www.medicalert. most chemists and can be dissolved in co.uk). If you wear glasses, take a copy boiled water. If the symptoms persist, of your prescription. consult a doctor.

136 ● Practicalities Essential A-Z Essential A-Z

The major risks posed in the region are sure you have adequate insurance (see those caused by insect disease carriers below). Remember you cannot dial any Essentials A-Z such as mosquitoes and sandflies. toll-free numbers abroad so make sure The key parasitic and viral diseases are you have a contact number. dengue fever and chikungunya (also known as chik V). Dengue fever and St Lucia chikungunya are particularly hard In an emergency call T911 or go to the to protect against as the mosquitoes Gros Islet PolyClinic, T758-450 9661, can bite throughout the day as well as Mon-Fri 0800-1630. Victoria Hospital, night (unlike those that carry malaria). Castries, T758-452 2421/453 7059. St Chikungunya virus is relatively new in Jude’s, Vieux Fort, T758-454 6041. the Caribbean but there has been an Soufrière Casualty, T758-459 7258. outbreak in both St Lucia and Dominica. Dennery, T758-453 3310. Tapion, T758- There is no malaria. There are lots of 459 2000, 24-hr emergency service, mosquitoes at certain times of the year, pay first, treatment later, expensive, so take insect repellent and avoid being pharmacy, X-ray, CAT scan, laboratory bitten as much as possible. Sleep off services, specialist doctors. Rodney the ground and use a mosquito net and Bay Medical Centre, T758-452 8621, some kind of insecticide. Remember is a collection of private doctors and that DEET (Di-ethyltoluamide) is the dentists. Larger hotels have resident gold standard. Apply the repellent doctors or doctors ‘on call’, visits cost every 4-6 hrs but more often if you are about EC$70-100. If given a prescription, sweating heavily. If a non-DEET product ask at the pharmacy whether the is used, check who tested it. Validated medication is available ‘over the counter’, products (tested at the London School as this may be cheaper. of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine) include Mosiguard, Non-DEET Jungle Dominica formula and non-DEET Autan. If you There are 3 public hospitals on the want to use citronella remember that island: the Marigot Hospital, T767-445 it must be applied very frequently (ie 7091, the Portsmouth Hospital, T767- hourly) to be effective. 445 5237, and the Princess Margaret The climate is hot; the islands are Hospital, T767-448 2231. Casualty and tropical and protection against the sun intensive care units are available at the will be needed. Do not be deceived by Portsmouth Hospital and the Princess cooling sea breezes. To reduce the risk Margaret Hospital (PMH). The PMH of sunburn and skin cancer, make sure also has a hyperbaric chamber. Several you pack high-factor sun cream, light- specialists and general practitioners coloured loose clothing and a hat. operate private clinics. Hillborough St Clinic is quite large with pharmacy If you get sick attached. Note that you have to pay in There are hospitals, medical centres and advance for everything. clinics around St Lucia, while the larger hotels have doctors on call. Dominica Useful websites has several public hospitals and private www.bgtha.org British Global and clinics and a hyperbaric chamber. Make Travel Health Association.

Practicalities Essential A-Z ● 137 cleans your room is left a small, daily tip. Vaccinations Taxis should also be tipped. No vaccination certificates are required except for yellow fever if you are coming Tourist information from an infected area. Local tourist offices can be found at the start of the listings sections on pages 58 Visas and immigration (St Lucia) and 101 (Dominica). All foreign nationals arriving in St The St Lucia Tourist Board has Lucia and Dominica must have a valid information bureaux at the airports passport. Visitors from the UK, the USA, (open when flights arrive) and the cruise Canada, most European countries, ship ports (open when a cruise ship is the Commonwealth and some other in) for advice and brochures. For offices nations do not need visas. For a full list, in the UK, USA and Canada, see http:// see http://archive.stlucia.gov.lc/faq/ stlucianow.co.uk/contact. index.htm and http://www.dominica. Discover Dominica Authority has gov.dm/services/what-are-the-entry- offices and representation in the USA, requirements-for-the-commonwealth- Canada, UK, Europe and Scandinavia, of-dominica/do-i-need-a-visa-to-enter- see www.dominica.dm/index.php/ into-dominica. contact-us. Weights and measures Metric and imperial.

140 ● Practicalities Essential A-Z Index Entries in bold refer to maps A Branch, Winston 122 Columbus, Christopher shopping 110 bus travel 133 118 transport 114 accident 136 consulates 136 user fees and site accommodation 21 C coral reef 53 passes 92 price codes 22 Cabrits National costs 138 wildlife 128 activities 10, 15, 73 Park 98 Cox, Chris 122 Douglas Bay 98 adventure parks 111 Calibishie 98 crafts 111 drink 26 airports 131 Canaries 49 Crayfish River 99 Dublanc 96 air travel 131 Canefield 95 Créole cooking 24 alcohol 26 canyoning 15, 111 cricket 15, 73, 112 E Amerindians 118 Cape Melville 98 cuisine 24 Edmund Forest Anse Chastanet 51 Cap Estate 43 culture Trail 56 Anse Comerette 44 Cap Moule à Chique Dominica 127 electricity 136 Anse de Sables 47 48 St Lucia 121 embassies 136 Anse Lapins 44 Capuchin 98 cycling 16, 112, 134 Emerald Pool 99 Anse La Raye 49 car hire 134 emergency 136 D Anse Lavoutte 44 Caribelle Batik 37 Enbas Saut 54 apartments 21 Carib Model Village dance 70 Enbas Saut Trail 56 Arawak 118 99 Dennery 45 Eudovic’s Art Studio archaeological site 56 Caribs 118 Dennery Island 45 37 art and crafts 72 Carib Territory 99 Desbarra 40 F art galleries 110 car travel 79, 115, 134 Des Cartiers Rainforest ATMs 138 Cas-en-Bas 43 Trail 46 fees 92 B Castle Bruce 99 Diamond Falls ferry 132 Castries 31, 34 festivals Babonneau 39 Botanical Gardens activities 73 Dominica 109 Bagshaw’s Studio 36 and Mineral Baths art 121 Fort-de-France 85 Balenbouche Estate 50 Brazil Street 36 St Lucia 70 56 diving 16, 53, 74, 113 Cathedral of the fish fry 49 bananas 23 dolphin watching 19 Immaculate fishing 17, 113 banks 138 Dominica 86, 86 Conception 36 flights 131 Barre le l’Isle 44 accommodation 101 Derek Walcott Square Folk Research Centre baths 51 activities 111 35 36, 121 beer 26 bars 109 Central Forest Reserve Fond Assau 39 Belle Croix 94 culture 127 96 Fond d’Or Bay 44 birdwatching 17, 46, diving 17 Charles, Dame Fond d’Or Nature 49, 55, 75 entertainment 110 Eugenia 126 Reserve and boat travel 132 festivals 109 children 77 Historical Park 44 Boeri 93 geography 127 Choiseul 56 Fond Doux Estate 54 Boiling Lake 92 history 125 climate 11 Fond Gens Libre 54 Bonnett St Remy, language 127 climbing 112 food 23 Sean 122 literature 127 clinics 137 forest birds 55 Botanical Gardens 91 marine life 17 restaurants 106

Index ● 141 Forestry Department H M Pirates of the Headquarters 39 Caribbean 96, 97 Fort Charlotte 37 handicrafts 56 Mabouya Valley 44 Pitons, The 54 Fort-de-France 80, 81 hawksbill turtle 42 Mamiku Gardens 46 Plas Kassav 50 accommodation 83 health 136 mangrove swamps 47 Pointe de Caille 47, 56 bars 85 hiking 17, 75, 113, 135 Mankoté Mangrove 47 Pointe du Cap 43 Bibliothèque history Maria Islands 47 Pointe Mulattre 101 Schoelcher 82 Dominica 125 Marigot Bay 48 Pont Cassé 98 Cathedral of St-Louis St Lucia 117 Marine Reserve 48 Portsmouth 96 82 Horseback Ridge 99 markets 31, 72, 111 Powder Magazine 37 festivals 85 hospitals 137 Martinique 80‑85 Praslin 46 Fort St-Louis 80 hotels 21 Massacre 95 Praslin Bay 45 La Savane 81 price codes 22 medical centres 137 Praslin Island 45 markets 83 hurricane season 11 Micoud 46 price codes 22 Musée d’Archéologie I Middleham Trails 93 prices 138 Millet Bird Sanctuary et de Préhistoire 82 Indian River 96 protected areas 128 Musée Régional Trail 49 public holidays 139 insurance 138 money 138 d’Histoire et R d’Ethnographie de J Morne Coubaril Estate Rabot Estate 52 la Martinique 82 Jacko Flats 99 51 Rain Forest Adventures nightlife 85 Jalousie 52 Morne Diablotin 96 39 Parc Floral et Culturel jazz festival 70, 71 Morne Fortuné 37 Reduit Beach 40 82 jeep 134 Morne Gimie 49 restaurants restaurants 84 Jenny Point 100 Morne Macaque 93 price codes 22 Fort Shirley 96 Morne Trois Pitons Rodney Bay 40, 41 Fregate Islands Nature K National Park 92 Rosalie Bay 100 Reserve 46 kayaking 76, 113 Mount La Combe 44 Roseau 87, 90 Freshwater Lake 93 Kent Gilbert Trail 93 music 70 Botanical Gardens 91 G kiteboarding 20, 78 N Kwéyòl 127 market area 90 Geneva Estate 94 Nobel Laureates 30 Windsor Park 91 geography L Northern Forest Roseau Valley 48 Dominica 127 Laborie 57 Reserve 96 rum 26 St Lucia 122 language 138 O S golf 75 Dominica 127 Government House 37 St Lucia 121 opening hours 138 safety 139 Grand Anse 40, 42 La Toc Point 36 P sailing 18, 76, 114 Saltibus Point 47 Grand Bay, Dominica Layou River gorge 99 papillote 102 94 leatherback turtle 42 Salybia 100 parrots 49 Santa Cruz Grande Rivière 44 Le Pavillon Royal parrot spotting 47 green turtle 42 Museum 37 transport 31, 87 Penrice Falls 99 Sari Sari Falls 100 Gros Islet 40 L’Escalier Tête-Chien Penville 98 Gros Piton 54 100 Savannes Bay 47 Petite Savanne 101 Savory, Ron 122 guesthouses 21 literature 122 Petit Piton 54 Dominica 127 Scorpion Island 47 petroglyphs 56 Scotts Head 94 Pigeon Island 42 seafood 23

142 ● Index FOOTPRINT Features Best activities 10 Pirates of the Caribbean 97 Coconut self-sufficiency 27 Shopping in St Lucia and Dominica 20 Coral reef 53 St Lucia with children 77 Dame Eugenia Charles 126 The first visitors 118 Derek Walcott 35 The port of Castries, then and now 38 Diving and marine life 75 To beach or not to beach 95 Entertainment on Dominica 110 Turtles at Grand Anse 42 Entertainment on St Lucia 70 User fees and site passes throughout Forest birds 55 Dominica 92 Liberté, Fraternité, Egalité 119 Waitukubuli National Trail 112 Mountain chicken 25 segway 77 St Lucia Distillers 49 jeep 134 walking 135 shopping 20, 72, 110 St Omer, Sir Dunstan minibus 133 weather 11, 31, 87 Sineku 100 121 sea 132 whale watching 19, site passes 92 Stonefield Estate 52 taxi 135 78, 114 snorkelling 51, 53 Sugar Beach/Jalousie Treetop Adventure White River 101 Soufrière, Dominica 94 Plantation Resort Park 45 wildlife Soufrière, St Lucia 50 and Spa 52 tropical depression 12 Dominica 128 St Lucia 30, 30 Sulphur Springs 52 tropical storm 12 St Lucia 123 accommodation 58 T turtles 42 Windsor Park 91 activities 73 windsurfing 20, tax 139 U art 121 78, 113 taxi 135 bars 69 Union Agricultural telephone 139 X beaches 95 Station 39 Tet Paul Nature culture 121 user fees and site Xavier, Llewellyn 122 Trail 54 diving 75 passes 92 Y tipping 139 entertainment 70 V Titou Gorge 93 yachts 132 festivals 70 tourist information vaccinations 136, 140 yoga retreat 57 fishing 17, 75 140 Valley of Desolation 93 geography 122 Dominica 101 Victoria Falls 101 history 117 St Lucia 58 Vieux Fort 48 language 121 tour operators 77, 114 Vigie Peninsula 38 literature 122 Trafalgar Falls 91 villas 21 marine life 75 transport 131 visas 140 restaurants 64 4WD 134 shopping 72 W air 131 tourist information 58 bicycle 134 Waitukubuli National transport 78 bus 133 Trail 112 wildlife 123 car 134 Walcott, Derek 35

Index ● 143 Footprint St Lucia & Dominica n Extensive coverage of the most famous and lesser-known sites, from the forested mountains of St Lucia to the marine parks of Dominica. Also includes Fort-de-France

in Martinque. St Dominica Lucia &

1

W I I n Expert author S N Sarah Cameron has L D A W N travelled throughout the Caribbean for DOMINICA A D

R

S MARTINIQUE D over two decades ST LUCIA n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations to ensure you find the best accommodation, restaurant or tour operator n Comprehensive information to immerse you in St Lucia’s colonial history and Dominica’s traditional culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on the Caribbean

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES Footprint Handbook

Travel: Caribbean UK £7.99 2nd edition USA $12.99 St Lucia & ISBN 978 1 910120 56 9 Dominica

footprinttravelguides.com SARAH CAMERON