CA MBRIDGE COU NTY GE OGRA P HIE S

M. . ra l d t . . M RD M. D Ge n e E : F H . H G UI L L E A A . i or , ,

HA MP SHIRE CA MBRIDGE UNIV E RSIT Y P RE S S

C F C L A Y M A N . . , A GE R

L ONDON F E TTE R L A N E E C , . . 4

N E Y O R K T H E M C M I N W A L L A C O . BOMBA Y

A L U TT MA CMIL L A N A N D co . L T D C C A , . MA D RA S I T H E M C M I L L N T O R O N TO A A C O . O F C A N A D A D , L T .

TO KYO MA RU Z E N - K A B US H IKI- K A IS H A

O A L L RIGHT S RE S E RV E D ! 6 ’ ‘ m u S “ N aN CX F r a (3 U G , t

Ca mé riafige County Geog ra pbies

H A M P S H I RE

TE LF ORD VARLE Y

l ’ H ea d M a s er P e t er S m o n d s S c h o o] W in t , y , che s t e r

W it h Ma s D a ams a nd s t a t p , i g r , Illu r ions

CAMBRIDGE A T THE UNI VE RSIT Y PRESS

1 9 2 2

P RE FACE

THE author b eg s t o exp ress his cordial thanks t o many friends wh o have given him valuable assistance in con

i n — t o V n ect o . with the following pages Canon J aughan , for kindly reading the proof sheets dealing with the flora of for t o the county , and information relating thereto

' H A ssist a n t Coun t S for in Mr . W . Butler , y urveyor , formation as t o roads and other topics ; t o Mr H . J.

F S for in for armer , Borough urveyor Of Christchurch , mation as t o coastal changes at the harbour mouth t o Dr Williams F reeman for varied information ; to Mr

of F J. C . Newsham , formerly the County arm Institute

t o a lso t o and many others . The author wishes acknowledge the valuable help received by him from

H of S . Mr Clement opkins , Isleworth chool

on 68 The maps pp . 39 and (published in the Geological

’ Survey Memozrs) are inserted by permission of the

’ ‘ of His S f Controller Maj esty s tationery O fice . The

of s on 6 details the geological ection p . 3 are taken , by E d permission , from a section published by Messrs . S tanford Ltd Long Acre . TE LF ORD VARLE Y

W IN CH E S E R 1 2 1 T , 9

CONT E NTS

I n . County a d S hire

2 G . eneral Characteristics

S S B d ize . hape . oun aries

Surface a n d General Features

S Water upply . Drainage . Rivers Geology

Natural H isto ry

Th e E d . Coast . Ti es rosion

9 . Climate

People . Population . Dialect

Place - Names Agriculture S pecial Cultivations

Ind ustries a n d Manufactures Fishing

Shipping a n d Trad e

History of t h e Co unty Antiquities — Architecture (a ) E cclesiastical viii C ONTENTS

Architecture (b) Military — Architecture (c) Domestic Communications

Ad ministration a n d Divisions Roll of Honour

Th e Chief Towns a n d Villages of Hamp shire IL LU STRAT IONS

P A GE

k N e w Mar Ash , Forest ’ S t H Catherine s ill , near Winchester B H B eacon ill , near urghclere S hawford Valley

But s e r H P e t e rsfi e ld ill , near

Distrib ution of Anglo - Saxon Place - names end ing in - ton

L it ch fi e ld d Down , near Whitchurch , with mist pon The River Test at Mottisfont S tone B rid ge over the Test at Red b rid ge

G S a n d 8 eological ection N . . across County The Basin of the ancient River Solent Diagram s howing fewness O f S ettlements in the

G in E H ault area . ants S S S d arsen tone at hawfor , near Winchester

Ye w t h e k n b d W in Trees on Chal , ear Cra Woo , chester Cottages near H ursley Kn ig h t wo o d Oa k B k B ran some Chine , near ournemouth

e n d S S hingle Spit at W . of olent Diagrams O f Sand b ank at mouth of Christchurch Harb our Rainfall Map O f Hampshire Hampshire Down Sheep

New d Forest Ponies , near Lyn hurst x ILLUSTRAT I O N S

P A GE ‘ Y d k on S d d L e e Farm ar with Ric s ta les , , near Romsey Watercress B ed s at Alresford H b C C k arvesting To acco , hurch roo ham ’ R k E : t h e B —fi n ish ers S ailway Wor s , astleigh rass hop

Hut a n d E e l o n t h e Fishing Trap Test , near Longstock

M S Vi ctor in H b H . . . y Portsmouth ar our Th e White S tar Liner Oly mp i c

Th e G H C reat all , Winchester astle Alton Church Basing Church ’ Th e a n d S t H Itchen Catherine s ill , Winchester

B S . reamore Church , Transept Arch ’ b b b b a n d - S Romsey A ey , A ess s Door Anglo axon Rood C North Transept , Christchurch Priory hurch

k in C a n d Norman Wor hoir N . Transept , Romsey Ab b ey

Th e d Font , Winchester Cathe ral Netley Ab b ey

B a r a t e S t h e g , outhampton , from North Thatched Cottages near Lynd hurst ’ Chalk- b uilt Farm B uild ings near Prior s Dean d b Thatche Dau Wall , Pitt , near Winchester Roman a n d P ro - Roman Road s a n d Settlements in H amp shire C B ut s er H d Deep utting , ill , Portsmouth Roa

Th e H Town all , Portsmouth Izaak Walton Charles King sley Hursley Vicarag e ILLUSTRATIONS xi

Memorial to Florence Nightingale B d S d roa treet , Alresfor Christchurch Prio ry

Corhampton Church , Meon Valley H S igh treet , Lymington

k P e te rsfi e ld Mar et Day , Winchester from S t Giles ’ Hill d C d Rere os , Winchester athe ral S chool , Winchester College

MAPS H ampshire , Topographical H G ampshire , eological

Th e us ra on s on . 1 8 1 2 0 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 8 2 0 ill t ti pp 7, , 57, , 5 , 9 , 44 , 45 , 95 , 9 , 5 Me a re re rod uce d ro m h o o ra h s b ssrs . V a le n n e S on s L td . p f p t g p y J ti , h ose o n 1 1 1 6 2 2 8 1 1 0 t P P . 3, 5 1 , 5 , 9 1 4 5 47» 4 , 4 9 a 9 » 93, 94 , 97» 9 . 1 2 1 1 1 62 1 8 2 1 8 ro m h o o ra h s s e c a a ke n b th e 5 , 53, 54 , , , 9 f p t g p p i lly t y a uh or h a on is n clud e d b cour e s O f th e T o ca P re s s A ss oc . t ; t t p . 99 i y t y pi l h a o n 1 0 is re r d uce d ro m h ra h k n d su e d b Mr t t p . 3 p o f a p o t o g p i ly ppli y

R. U r e o f t h e L . 8: S W . Ra lwa E n n ee r n D e a r m e n E a s e h i , i y gi i g p t t , tl ig ;

h a o n . 1 1 6 is ro m a h o o ra h b Mr S ua r k n d s u ed b t h e t t p f p t g p y t t , i ly ppli y W h S r L 6 1 8 2 06 2 0 e a n e h o se o n . 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 8 it t i ; t pp 3, 39 , 4 , 4 , 47, , 7, , 7

r ro m Me r F F r h 0 L td h a o n . 1 8 a e h o o ra h s b s s s . C . f p t g p y it , t t p 3 m a h o r 6 is re rod uce d ro o a h h R v G . S a m so n h a on . 1 f p t g p b y t e e . p ; t t p 7 p

ro m a h o o ra h b E m e r W a ker L t d h a o n . 1 b a rra n e g y , 77 y g f p t p y , l t t p m en t with th e Roy a l S o ci e ty for th e P re v e n ti on o f C ruelty t o A n i ma ls ; a n h 1 0 m n f h e D ea n a n d Ch a er o f S t d t a t on p . 8 b y ki n d p e r i ss i o o t pt ’ P a u s Ca h e d ra l t l .

n n d h r 1 . Cou ty a S i e

E ngland is divided into areas curiously dissimilar in size and shape , known as shires or counties d a ivision of much interest historically , for it carries

- S us back to the days of the Anglo axon occupation . On the decay of Roman civilisation and the with

d rawal A . D . 2 0 of their legions from Britain about 4 , u r s ccessive waves of barbarism swept ove the country ,

r S Pictish tribes from the no th , cots from Ireland , and

S m . Jutes , Angles , and axons fro over sea In this deluge most of what was Roman was swept away , and for some 0 35 years these tribes occupied the land , warring one ll with another , and gradua y establishing kingdoms

so- H the called eptarchy . It was at this early period , E before ngland had become welded into one nation , ” that we got the word shire , which is derived from

- S -a sh a re i the Anglo axon scire , that is , or div sion

s of land h am ofi from a larger portion . As the Anglo S axons spread over the country , the land became ll increasingly covered with sma settlements , or village l ul communities , ti l timately the whole area was carved a r out into a number of sep rate estates or prope ties , ” or known for the most part as tuns , worths ,

hams . The members of each community cultivat ed

or the soil in common , under a lord owner , but had A 1 2 HAM PSH IRE

clearly defined rights of their own . These varied from ” 6" t o u tun tun , and the vario s tuns , with their n lords or owners , were independent one of a other , except in so far as common action was necessary for

al . mutu protection As the kingdoms developed, how

a n ever , they bec me more and more orga ised , and in comparatively early Heptarchy days each had come to — be divided into portions known as s cires the originals

— of E s of our shires the present day . ach cire was

E a ld orma m governed by an , and an administrative

'

- - f scire ere o z . e . o ficer , the g f , shire reeve (our modern S f offices of Alderman and heri f) , while for minor purposes of government . the t un sh ip s were grouped together into districts c alled hundreds . E of ach unit in this triple series shire , hundred , and t s i un h p had its own administrative assembly , known

moot as the or meeting , at which matters affecting their general welfare were discussed and determined . All subsequent developments of local government have p ractically . grown from this . Thus from the early tun grew the d emesn e or ma n or of later Anglo - Saxon and Norman days , with the parish as its ecclesiastical equivalent . The later word county is derived from the Norman

t comte or comes ti le of count , the (companion) of the

comita tus or king, and the county is therefore the

ole. th e a rea t . . coun ship , governed by a count Thus , while the words shire and county both stand for the

“ a re di f m . sa e thing , their origins widely ferent One tells us of development of local institution g oing back C OUN TY AND SHI RE 3

- S t to early Anglo axon imes , the other , of the subjuga

Of th e S tion axon to the Norman invader . The name of our county is recorded for the first time

E Ch ron i cle A D in history in the nglish , under date . . 755 , Si eb erh t where we read that g , King of Wessex , was deprived by the Witan of all his possessions except

ir Hea ntun s c e . This name connects it with the great S seaport on its coast , outhampton , known in earlier s Ha n tune t H day as , and in medieval imes as ampton . t o u l Later , when avoid conf sion with the mid and town , “ ” S i e . . the prefix uth south , was added , the seaport

S une Suth h a uns ir nt c e . became uth hant , and the county

n H Thus while in ordi ary parlance we speak of ampshire , the true style of our county is the County of South ” u f i ampton , and as s ch it appears in all legal and o fic al documents , both present and past .

Ha ntun e As to the derivation of the word , more

a than one explanation has been given . The usu l and apparently obvious one is that Ha n tun e (or Hampton)

H - means the ome town , the headquarters or principal

f - S Gewiss a s o . town the original Anglo axon settlers , the

V of Others , again , in iew the fact that the Test River F is known as the Anton above ullerton Junction , and probably in early times all down its course as far as the

S Ha n tun e olent , have explained as being connected

Cla usen tu S u with the name m (the Roman o thampton) , both Ha n tun e and Cla us entum being thus derived from an , a Celtic word meaning water , which occurs

- elsewhere in many other of our county place names . i n ma of t h e Whatever the explanat o y be , the name 4 H AM P SH I RE county is undoubtedly of the same origin as that of

the seaport , which in early days , as at the present time , has so greatly influenced its fortunes . It is important to note that different meanings are attached to the word coun ty . When we mean the whole geographical area , corresponding practically to the

Ha n tuns cire th e u original , we term it Ancient Co nty” It is in this sense that Hampshire is used when we H ” speak of the Lord Lieutenant of ampshire , or the population of Hampshire ” as given in the Census u Reports , and it is in this sense (excl ding the Isle of

Wight , which is dealt with in a separate volume) that we shall ordinarily use the term . But for certain pur

Of poses local administration , administration of j ustice , and Parliamentary election , municipal boroughs have

- a n d for many years had powers of self government , while included in the county area for some purposes , are inde 1 888 pendent areas for others . In th e larger municipal S u boroughs , Portsmouth and o thampton , and later

Bournemouth,were given the status , for administrative

of of purposes , separate counties , under the name County

Boroughs , while the remainder was divided into two ” Administrative Counties , the mainland forming ” “ t S the Administra ive County of outhampton , and the Isle of Wight becoming a separate administrative

. county , each under a County Council

6 H AM PSH I RE that wild life has suffered less in Hampshire than in

E un almost any other nglish county , and there is an usually extensive flora and fauna . Over the wide rolling downs sheep - rearing has been carried on for centuries ; indeed in medieval days the wool industry was the t H s aple industry , and ampshire wool was a leading item in the commerce of the land . In particular areas special cultivations , such as hops and strawberries ,

o are now extensively carried on but , in the main , general farming and the ordinary minor industries connected with it form the chief occupations of the inland population . Another outstanding feature of Hampsh ire is the

i r l almost en tire absence of m n e a wealth . There are no mines , no coal , and very little building stone . Brick earth exists plentifully and bricks can be made almost H everywhere , but this is practically all . ence the almost exclusively rural character of inland Hampshire .

- The sea board has special features of its own . All along the coast are well - marked river estuaries and

- land locked harbours , and lying athwart them all is S the Isle of Wight , which acts as a protection to pithead , S S . outhampton Water , and the olent behind it These sheltered waterways give ready access to the ocean east

n and west , and tidal co ditions are such as always to S afford a good depth of water . outhampton indeed possesses unusually favourable conditions for com merce , not merely from its geographical position , and

a the security of its waterways , but lso from its hinter ” H land . It is practically as near to London as arwich D or over , and railways connect it directly with the great

8 HAM PSHI RE coal - producing and manufacturing districts of the

Midlands and South Wales . Natural conditions thus seem to mark it out as the future colonial distributing port of E ngland . di It is to the same con tions , viz . central position , ease of access to the ocean and the hi nterland ” and security from weather and from foreign attack , that Portsmouth owes its position as the greatest naval port

E n and arsenal in the world . ver si ce Roman days

r H Po tsmouth arbour has been a naval centre , and it is now by far the largest urban area of the county . Its industries— which are those naturally arising in a great naval and victualling port— support something like

- of one third the whole population of the county . Th e sheltered character of the Hampshire inland waters , the beauty of its coastal scenery and that of

Of the Isle of Wight , and the excellence the climate , render the neighbourhood especially attractive for yacht H ing , and all through the summer months ampshire s w coastal water abound ith every type of pleasure craft . Comparing the inland and the maritime features of the county we see that it is the latter and not the inland characters to which it owes its chief importance . Never th eless rural Hampshire is essentially the pro ducing part , the seaports merely the distributing .

I

. z h B n d 3 S i e . S a p e . ou a ri e s The Ancient County of Hampshire has a total area of acres , of which are in the Isle of — S IZE SHAPE— BOUNDARIE S 9

Wight , the remainder , acres , forming the main h land area w ich we are studying . Of this some 4000 acres are water . h H Compared wit others , ampshire is a large county . of In point size it stands seventh on the list , being ex ceeded D only by Yorkshire , Lincolnshire , evon , Norfolk ,

Northumberland and Lancashire , in the order given . l H Rough y speaking , the ampshire mainland forms a

r 0 so t of square , measuring some 4 miles from north to

. t south , and from east to west The greates distance from boundary to boundary is from Bournemouth in the south

F - west corner to arnborough in the north east , a distance of about 67miles . The county boundaries are largely natural . The same considerations which dictated the

t un sh i s limits of the p or manors of earlier days , were likewise operative in determining those of the coun ty .

These were mainly , though not entirely , geographical , though as time went on various alterations would naturally ensue owing to sale and purchase of property and other like causes , all of which have had their

H - influence in shaping the ampshire of to day . S tarting from the coast at the western extremity , the boundary runs from a point ab o ut six miles from the mouth of Christchurch Harbour (now the western

t of limit of the qui e modern town Bournemouth) , and w of proceeds north ard , following roughly the line the

of a t Of watershed the Avon valley , keeping a distance about three miles from the stream , to a point near

F H t h e ordingbridge . ere Avon is j oined by the little l tributary stream , the Allen , whose val ey the county 10 H A M PSHI RE

a bound ry practically outlines in exactly the same way , till reaching the head of the Allen valley it turns sharply eastward , crosses the Avon directly at right angles a n little north of Breamore , and the keeps along the edge of the well - d e fi n e d escarpment which connects North

“ ” Charford and Bramshaw Telegraph . It now turns

s northward , and meeting the valley of the Test , outline ll it in much the same manner , running para el first to the main stream and afterwards to its tributary , the S Wallop Brook , till near hipton Bellinger it meets the valley of the Wiltshire river , the Bourne . Crossing the Bourne , it outlines its valley as far as Tidworth , and then , turning sharply to the east , and crossing it again , keeps an easterly course till it reaches a point H two miles south of Tangley . ere the surface is very 600 broken , and the elevation high , averaging some feet

o above sea level , and the b undary follows in the main the ridges of the higher ground , and except at one spot , viz . Combe , where an important alteration was made a few years ago , follows this natural line as far as Pilot H 8 ill ( 74 feet high) . At this point it turns sharply E and descends into the nborne valley as far as the river , which now forms the boundary for a distance of almost seven miles . Leaving the river , it follows another natural line marked out for it by the Old Roman road S S between peen and ilchester , and passing northwards Sil by an irregular bend round chester itself , again follows the Roman road from Southampton to London for some six miles , till it meets the Blackwater , which di it follows as far as its source near Aldershot , a stance — — S IZE SH APE BOUNDARIE S 1 1

of some sixteen miles , and then takes a more or less . winding course southward , either skirting the streams and outlining their valleys , or in the more elevated areas keeping the line of the ridges , till between Grayshott and H 00 indhead it rises to something like 7 feet . Keeping the same general character , it passes through Rake S and close to heet , crosses directly over the Rother

t wo P et ers fi eld valley miles east of , and then passing across the line of the South Downs by a fairly well H defined gap between Buriton and arting , it holds a E direct course till it meets the coast at msworth , at

' ‘ f Ch ich es er H F the head o t arbour . rom this point l onward , the boundary is a water boundary , fo lowing th e Of centre the tideway , until it meets the open sea ,

Of H a little east ayling Island . A few years a g o the outline of the county in on e or two localities was much more complicated and , for the reasons indicated above , parish boundaries and county boundaries did not always coincide , and this gave rise

s to many inconvenience . By the provisions of the

1 8 Local Government Act of 94 , however , the whole of every parish and , unless the County Council other

of r wise directed , the whole each rural district , we e H placed within the same administrative area . In amp shire this Act caused the following changes —the ancient parish of Combe in the north - west was trans

t o D ferred Berkshire , and the modern parish of ocken field in the middle east to Surrey ; part of Bram S H shott parish was transferred from ussex to ampshire , E D and the Wiltshire parishes of Bramshaw ast , amerham , HAM PSHIRE

t w Mar in , Melchet , Plaitford , Toyd Farm ith Allenford ,

West Wellow , and part of Whitsbury were handed H over to ampshire . The main result was to straighten out the more irregular portions of the county boundary , though in the case of Combe , to which we have already

’ referred , it was carried out in defiance of all natural geographical conditions . Combe , as its name implies , lies in an extremely deep hollow, and the county boundary , which formerly took the natural geographical line along the ridge of the steep escarpment to the north of it , now descends abruptly into the valley below , and then reascends the hill slope some miles further west .

f 4 . S ur a ce a n d Ge n e ra l F ea tu re s We cannot too clearly realise that the varied pheno mena which it is the function of geography to investi gate are either immediately or ultimately the outcome of certain natural causes , chief among which are (1 ) geographical position (2 ) elevation (3) the nature

of of the soil or rock , and (4) climate ; and all these , while they mutually interact , are largely brought about — by one central physical cause geological structure . We shall therefore proceed to enquire how this has affected our county H The foundation , or base as it were , of ampshire is the chalk , which forms the core of the county and stretches as an elevated plateau over the whole of the centre , flanked on its northern , eastern , and southern slopes by a series of sands , clays , and gravels , and

1 4 H AM PSH I RE

H S which here protrudes into ampshire from ussex , and which for want of a better name we may call the

Selbor ne area .

Th e surface of the Chalk Plateau , though as a rule elevated , is by no means level , but presents the character is tic series of rolling ridge and hollow which distinguishes

r i this formation . In many places this chalk forms p a ct ; cally the actual surface , with merely a few inches of soil on the top . Where this is the case we get the i beautiful down country , with w de stretches of turf , over which the eye can range uninterruptedly fOr many miles . More generally , however , the chalk is overlaid with clayey or loamy soil , possibly a good many feet

. in in depth , and here farms prevail This is almost variably the case in the hollows and lower levels all through the chalk upland , for the latter was once com

let el p y covered many feet thick with clayey material , and though nearly all of it has since been worn or washed away , it has naturally collected or persisted

t a ccu u longer in the hollows , and it is s ill continually m

i on lat ng there . Thus , while portions of the upper slopes or ridges we shall find nothing growing but the natural vegetation of the chalk land , namely turf and j uniper , in other places where a thin layer of soil exists we shall find yew and beech but only in the hollows where there is a deep soil shall we meet with elm or ash , hawthorn l or sycamore , and if oak or ho ly are present we shall know that underneath there is probably a good depth of strong marly loam or heavy clay . Another interesting and instructive point to note

1 6 HAM PSHI RE is the variation of soil as we approach the limit

a of cultivation in a ch lk valley . The gently curving character of the summits of th e chalk downs is typical of them , but as the hills descend they often take a

- d efi n ed steeper slope , occasionally forming well or even bold escarpments , and sometimes they meet the

Shawford Va lley (S h owin g n a tura l h edg e a lon g th e culti va ti on li mi t) soil wash lying in the bed of the valley at quite a sharp i angle . Where this is the case the lim t of cultivation ur b ut almost always occ s at the angle , whatever course ll the limit takes , it usua y indicates a definite degree of soil thickness . The chalk upland reaches its greatest elevation along

- hi two or more well marked ridges , the chief of w ch

D S D o are the North owns and the outh owns . The f rmer SURF ACE AND GENERAL F EATURE S 1 7 stretch across the county from the Wiltshire downland

- in the north west corner in a curve , first eastward and 0 then southward , with a general level Of from 75 to 8 0 7 feet above the sea , the chief elevations being Beacon H 8 8 H 68 H 8 ill ( 5 feet) , Ladle ill (7 feet) , Pilot ill ( 74 feet) , ’ H t and King John s ill (754 feet) , af er which they broaden 00 out at Medstead into a plateau of some 7 feet elevation , and then curve southward forming steep escarpments

Noa r H 6 6 W h ea th a m again facing eastward at ill ( 9 feet) , H 8 1 S H 6 ill ( 3 feet) and tonor ill (75 feet) . S D The line of the outh owns , though less continuous , is more direct . On the wes t it reaches a general eleva tion o f 500 feet but eastward it rises higher to Beacon H i H 660 ill and Old W nchester ill (each about feet) , and

But ser H u 88 ill , the highest point in the co nty ( 9 feet) . All round But ser Hill the county i s wonderfully p ictur esque , with deep combes and valley s , often really bold in contour .

This chalk upland is not continuous , but is intersected at various points by river valleys , which have cleft deep fissures in it , the course and causes of which we shall presently examine . The bottoms and lower levels of these valleys are filled with rich alluvial soil , washed f into them from above , a fording excellent grazing and arable land , and the courses of the streams throughout

l out these chalk val eys are marked by rows of farms , villages , or small towns , in almost continuous succession , with a remarkable prevalence of the place - name sufli x

- t on along them . Over the higher levels we shall find numerous artificial ponds— bedded with clay and lime

B

SURF ACE AND GENERAL F EATURE S 1 9 — carefully puddled in and known as dew or mist

for ponds . These are the cattle and sheep which graze the upland pasture . In the absence of natural springs ,

Distribution of An g lo - Saxon Pla ce - n a mes e n din g in -t on

Th e un sh a d ed a rea s a re ch a lk th e s h a d ed oth er orma ti on s ( , f )

domestic water supply is obtained from wells , and these are nowadays often provided with small wind - pumps which pump the water up into storage tanks . These 20 HAM PSHI RE

pumps , recently introduced , are now quite a marked feature of the landscape all over the chalk upland . The areas which fringe the chalk plateau north and u south are practically identical in geological struct re ,

of n consisting of a series clays and sa ds , but they differ in climate and in rainfall . The elevations throughout both areas are much lower than the central plateau .

“ Litch fi eld o ea u s on d D wn , n r Whitch rch , with mi t p

The name Woodlands , given to the northern of these areas , is not derived from the timber which grows upon it , though much of it is under timber or covert , but h from the somewhat cold nature of the soil , w ich favours the growth of wood and covert rather than of crops . The soil varies greatly where clays predominate

al the soil is strong , and both timber and gener crops

flourish , but over much of it there is merely thin sand

22 HAM PSHIRE

or bracken , with here and there stretches of turf , accord ing to t h e character of the soil . Much of it is u nder timber , usually in plantations . Wild life abounds , and ’ portions of the district are a naturalist s paradise . The Selborne area also has a character qui te of its

Noar H own . Looking out eastward from the top of ill or Stonor Hill the eye travels for miles and miles ove r

- a broad well wooded plain , flanked southwards by S D the outh owns . This plain is the extreme western corner of the Weald . The surface , though generally t speaking low , undula es greatly . In places it is very broken , and everywhere it is extremely picturesque .

Much of it is sandy , and the soil is in parts so thin that

u — in it will not s pport timber fact nothing but bracken , t gorse , or heather . Par of it is heavy clay land covered H with thick wood , especially oak . ops grow well over a good portion of it , so that it may also be termed

.of H the hop region ampshire .

. W a t e r Dra n a e . R v ers 5 S up p ly . i g i On the water supply of any region depend not merely the nature and extent of natural vegetation and of cultivation , but also the distribution of population , the nature of the industrial occupations , and in many t It cases the communication rou es . is therefore one of the most important factors in determining local characteristics . Water falls plentifully in the form of rain over the

e H u whol of ampshire , and makes its way contin ously — — WATER SUPPLY DRA INAGE R IVER S 23 to th e lower levels by the visible drainage of brooks ” or r and rivers , or by invisible drainage pe colation through the soil below the surface . When porous or permeable strata overlie im

o f permeable r ck such as sti f clays and the like , the rainfall soaks through the former till its passage is arrested by the impermeable strata , which thus form ” - what is termed a water seal . Much of the rainfall which falls on our Hampshire heights collects in natural basins underground and issues as springs at points a considerable distance below and away from the place of catchment .

F o for rom various causes , n tably the larg e demands

- - town water supply , the water table or saturation

i level of the underground water is cont nuously sinking , E as is the case over a great part of ngland . There is evidence indeed that in Roman and Saxon times the springs in the Andover district issued some fifty to sixty

feet above their present points of origin . The great water - bearing formation of Hampshire U is the chalk . While the pper chalk is porous and

fi ssured f ra cti much , the lower chalk strata are sti f and p

n s a cally impervious , acti g as a water e l for the layers articu above . Thus springs are extremely abundant , p

T e larly where these two meet . h soaking through the o al chalk takes s me time , however , and ch k springs m usually flo w most abundantly so e weeks after rain , the immediate effect of rain on them being often negli “ ” e ible i . . g . The water of these springs is hard ( it contains dissolved lime i n the form of calcium carbonate) HA M PSHI RE

and is very clear and limpid , and as they issue from deep - seated sources the Hampshire chalk springs have — ° F a remarkably even temperature usually about 5 0 ahr . H throughout both winter and summer . The ampshire chalk streams flow in well - d efi ned valleys and are fed

a ffluen ts by numerous , and if we trace these upward we shall find they generally origin ate in channels or h ravines , which are either entirely dry , or along whic S streams flow intermittently according to season . uch ” H intermittent streams are called bournes . The urst

H S Oxen b ourn e E bourne , eadbourne , omborne , , nborne ,

e as well as many streams known mer ly as Bourne , are l examples of this , and their origin wi l be at once evident from what has been said above . The points at which these bournes first become apparent vary greatly accord ing to season .

Next , but far less important in our county as water bearing strata , are the sands and gravels . The water is softer and less clear , and is often impregnated with iron , which combines with the presence of peat in the associated strata to turn the water dark and inky hence the term Blackwater so Often applied to streams in the sandy areas . The rivers of this type do not

- fi e d e n d . flow in well valleys , like the chalk streams H m H ampshire forms one ain drainage area , the amp ” shire basin proper , but a smaller area to the north di drains into the Thames valley, and a minutive portion near P et ers fi eld into the Sussex basin along the Rother H valley . The main watershed of the ampshire basin u follows a zigzag co rse , which is , roughly , as follows WATER SUPPLY—DRA I N AGE—R IVERS 25

H Sid own H H St Pilot ill , ill , Beacon ill , Wootton F He Laurence , Church Oakley , arleigh Wallop , rriard ,

F r xfi ld L ewa o e . Medstead, y y , West Tisted , Privett ,

F roxfi eld At , where the three basins meet , it branches , cutting off the Thames basin along a line through

S H l Noa r Hi tonor i l , Warren Corner , ll , and by a line

The River Tes t a t Mottis fon t (S h owi ng ch a lk es ca rp m en t ea s t of th e v a lley )

’ W ol r D H south of m e Pond to Weaver s own . The amp shire and Sussex basins meet along the line from

F roxfi eld S D , across to the ridge of the outh owns over

Buts er H of ill . The lowest point the watershed is at 00 Church Oakley , 3 feet above sea level . The most characteristic Hampshire rivers are the H Test and the Itchen , which are ampshire rivers throughout the whole of their course . Both are typical 26 HAM PSHI RE

ll chalk streams . The Avon is rea y a Wiltshire stream ° whose lower course traverses our county to get to the

- sea . All three flow through well d efi ne d valleys with

a ffluent s charming scenery , and are fed by numerous . These valleys have been slowly but continuously carved out by their rivers , assisted by wind and frost

and rain . This erosion of rock or soil is always irregular , so that rivers tend slowly to change their course and to swing backwards and forwards from side to side of their valleys , so that the latter continually widen and deepen as time goes on . On some formations , too ,

- notably chalk , rain water exerts a directly solvent action wh ich co - operates in producing hollows and H depressions . Ages ago the ampshire land levels were much higher than now - possibly several th ousand feet

e in plac s . The water supply was more copious . Ice and snow accumulated in winter , the melting of which caused violent floods , and so erosion was far more active then than now . Thus the land became crossed by great l va leys and so the Test and Itchen grew , their main hl streams flowing roug y from north to south . The

Test , being the more active , produced more rapid erosion , ultimately cutting below the levels of some of the valleys which drained into the Itchen , thus “ capturing ” thi s drainage and causing rivers to flow along entirely new courses . In this way much of the drainage of the northern heights whi ch once fed the

Itchen was diverted westward into the Test valley , while the Avon , which probably once flowed direct from S S alisbury to outhampton Water , broke out a new — WATER SU P P LYfi DRA INA GE R IVERS 27

channel southward and so attained its present course . The river Rother is again another local example of this S process of river capture , the ussex river Arun having captured it as well as a number of streams which once d S flowed irectly south to the ussex coast .

a s 8 The Test h a total length of some 3 miles . Its permanent source is in th e water meadows between Overton and Ash at a level of 300 feet above the sea ; — thus i t has an average fall Of 9 feet t o the mile a swift e stream as compared with the Thames , for xample , l u 2 which has an average fal of abo t % feet to the mile .

Its ultimate source is at Church Oakley , and in wet seasons a continuous stream flows down the valley from this point , but in dry seasons it disappears in “ swallow holes near Deane and wells out again in P olh am t on S great springs at p , outhington , and Laver

r stoke . At Whitchurch the rive broadens out into several branch es which pass through marshy meadows , H meeting the Bourne at urstbourne , and from here by

o Longparish, Middleton , and Wherwell , right n to

Mottisfont , great springs well up . Near Wherwell the Bullington (or Micheldever) flows in on the left and l the Anton on the right . The Bu lington valley is particularly interesting . The stream rises at North brook , and flows along a marshy peat valley through

Bra n sb ur Bullington and y Common , and the whole

Bra n sbur a n d district of Longparish , y , Wherwell is a veritable land of water , a natural paradise where fish ,

- marsh haunting birds , and bog plants of every kind

n abound . The Anto gives its name to Andover , and 28 HAM PSHI RE with its little tributary the Ann or P illb rook serves to

- drain a large open area , the head waters of which are at Appleshaw and Kimpton . Retracing our steps t o the northern edge Of the Test area we find an altogether different country , the dry D H steep slopes of the Northern owns . ere bare chalk downs with deep combes and valleys and a dry sto ny soil alternate with patches of woodland and cultivated farms . Of the lateral valleys which debouch into the central valley of the Bourne , the most striking is Nether ton valley , which leads from the great hollow of Combe — down to Hurstbourne Tarrant a dry valley filled with a rich alluvial wash along which water once flowed fl freely , leaving in places great accumulations of int and

d eb ris to to rough testify the activity of former erosion . h S The permanent eadwaters of the Bourne are at toke , but in wet seasons a steady stream comes down right ’ V D St from ernham s ean . Mary Bourne lies below

S . toke , and here watercress beds abound The flow of

In Ma rch water varies greatly . great springs well out , but by August the supply ceases and the stream shrinks to quite small dimensions . dl Below Wherwell the Test valley broadens rapi y ,

an d the river dividing into numerous channels , receiving continual rei nforcemen ts of springs and tributaries

S D Ta db ourne the Wallop Brook , omborne , ean , and others . At Mottisfont , where a Benedictine Abbey once stood , is a beautiful natural spring with a per manent flow yielding some gallons of water

th e daily . Below Romsey Test ceases to be a chalk

30 HAM PSHI RE s everal channels , flowing along a broad valley where picturesque villages and hamlets follow in close succes S H sion from Itch en toke to eadbourne Worthy . This is

- wat ers la sh es a regular water country , with fords or p at numerous points , and mills at short intervals along the stream . At Twyford , below Winchester , the valley E widens rapidly , past Otterbourne and astleigh , with l its big rai way construction works . The tidal estuary S is flanked by the great outhampton docks on the west ,

of and the shipbuilding yards Woolston on the east , l t S til finally it loses i self in outhampton Water . The Avon enters the county j ust south of Downton in Wilts— where it is liable to considerable flooding at times— and flows through a picturesque valley past F S . ordingbridge , Ringwood , and opley to Christchurch All round this town are broad water meadows where

S y cattle graze , and here the river j oins the tour to empt H into Christchurch arbour , a wonderful inland lake of great beauty and interest . The actual harbour mouth

Mud eford is at , where there is a remarkable bar or bank of shingle which has undergone great changes in form and extent in the last few years . The long narrow entrance is termed the Run , and here salmon are netted in some numbers during the season . Of other Hampshire streams the Meon is th e most

Oxenb ourn e marked in character . It rises by springs at

South mill 00 e and , at a level of 4 feet abov the sea the highest chalk springs in Hampshire . As it is only

about fifteen miles long , its current is rapid , though the

volume is small . At West Meon it is intermittent , as — — WATER SUPPLY DRAIN AGE RIVERS 31

- swallow holes occur , into which the river disappears . There are mills along i ts course at Droxford and else where . Its estuary is now silted up , and the river enters

Ti fi eld the sea as an insignificant dribble below t ch .

The Meon valley is remarkably picturesque , with numer

old V - S x ous illages . In very early Anglo a on days it

- became peopled by the Meon wara , a Jutish folk who

r Gewissas settled here , probably befo e the occupied H the rest of ampshire . E as tward of the Meon there are no regular streams

r- but the chalk formation here is highly wate bearing , and characteristic springs or streams more or less intermittent flow out all along the j unction of the chalk with the clays and sands above it . These are called la va n ts . They usually issue at various levels after 1 8 1 1 —1 winter rains . In 79 for instance , and also in 9 4 5 , great la v a n t s occurred at Hambledon at the head of l the Wal ington valley . The absence of streams is due

t e to the absorbent character of h chalk , for the water yield of this corner of the county is exceedingly copious .

r At Bedhampton remarkable sp ings exist , which yield Of millions of gallons water daily , and supply Ports f mo uth with water . An interesting eature of th ese is that they are fed from rain which has fallen on the

S D as southern slope of the outh owns , and h drained under the clay strata lying south of the chalk , which , l being impermeable , have acted as a seal , ti l the water has fin a lly broken out at a lower level on the southern chalk outcrop close to the shore . The New F orest streams are of quite different char HAM PSHI RE

— - acter they are mainly somewhat ill d efi ne d trickles through marshy and water - logged hollows emptying

i into winding tidal estuar es . We have already referred to their dark and inky appearance , and to the occurrence Of the name Blackwater both here and elsewh ere in the county , where similar soil conditions prevail . The Hampshire streams belonging to the Thames basin are not important . The ch ief is the Loddon , which rises near Basingstoke not very far from the source of the 00 H Test , at the lowest point (3 feet) of the ampshire

“ ’ etween watershed . Thus the divide the Test and

Loddon valleys is all but imperceptible , and the two valleys indeed form a long uninterrupted trough - like

- depression , well watered and fertile , a natural line of crossing of the channels of communication east and west with those going north and south , where the important town Basingstoke has sprung up . A unique feature of Hampshire is that some part of its water supply is derived from wells sunk under the sea . The forts at Spithead a re supplied by deep wells of this character , and the water so obtained is not only used l to supp y them , but is actually shipped to various points along the coast .

6. Ge olog y At the time Hampshire began to take shape the east and south of E ngland formed the bed - of a shallow sea

' whose shore stretched north - east from Dorset across

l - H S the Mid ands . Present day ampshire and ussex GE OLOGY 33 formed the estuary of a great river which flowed east ward . On the bed of this estuary , during what is known as the Cretaceous Period , the sandy and clayey off l detritus washed the land began to accumu ate , forming what is now the Lower Greensand , Gault Clay ,

- and Upper Greensand , portions of which we find to day

S P etersfi eld exposed in the elborne and areas , and also

S . near ydmonton Then the ocean grew deeper , the

de coast rece d westward , and a deep sea was formed

of F E ur beneath which much rance and Northern ope , as well as the greater part of Britain , was submerged . On the floor of this ocean the remains of marine creatures consisting largely of shells of F oraminifera slowly ul — accum ated , forming three types of chalk the Lower

Chalk , impure and mingled with clay and sand ; the

al flints Middle Ch k , purer and whiter , with occasional and the Upper Chalk , also pure and white , with great deposits of flint , Often disposed in layers . Later , this

- sea bed slowly rose , and earthy matter , the result of E land erosion , again collected on it , and thus the ocene — rocks of the Tertiary period were deposited a series of W oolwich a n d e clays and sands known as the , R ading o Beds , the London Clay , and the Bagshot Beds , c vering H S t ampshire , ussex , Ken , and part of the Thames

—" valley . A period Of shrinkage followed the Cretaceous and E ocene rocks were crushed in together from the south , causing the sea bottom to bulge and curve , and forming a series Of ridges and hollows with their long axes roughly east and west . Thus the central ridges of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight 34 HA M PSH IRE

P ea . a ll v m s h n e oos e s a n d . P os t I Re ce n t (N e o t u iu , i gl , l r ck E a r h i t . Te r a r . l r la e r ti y l ith i c) o t . B Va l e r v l y G a els . N e e r P a e a Gra v e s w l t u l .

C a - h - fln s l y wit i t . ld e r P la e a ra v e s O t u G l .

He a d n d — o B e s sa n d s a n d cla ys .

a r n B to B e d s (wh it e sa n d ) .

B a rton cla ys (blue with n um e ro us foss s il ) .

Te r a r . i y Bra t ckle sh a m B ed s (s a n d s a n d cla y s) . E oce n e .

B a gsh ot B e d s (s a n d s a n d cla ys) .

L n n C a bl e c a o d o l y ( u l y) .

Re a d i n g B e d s (re d mottle d cla ys with s a n d s a n d p e bble b e d s ) .

— U p p e r Ch a lk (soft a n d wh it e with n me r flin t s u ou s ) .

M d d e Ch a lk h a rd e r h e h i l ( , w it wit o ca s n a l fln s c i o i t ) . — Low er Ch alk (gra y a n d m a rly im p e rv iou s ) . e n S co d a ry . U p p er Gre e n s a n d (fe rrugi nous s a n d r e s with ch e t n od ul ) .

' Ga ult (s t ifi blu e cla y with ma rl a n d s a n d ) .

F o lke s t o n e B e d s (ferrugi n ou s s a n d) .

a n la S a n d g a t e B e d s (sa n d d c y) .

Hyth e B e d s (g re e n i sh fe rrugi n ou s s a n d with ch e rt n o d ule s a n d li me s ton e b a n d s (Ba rg a t e s t on e) . GE O L OGY 35

slowly emerged and became dry land , while a series of beds known as the Oligocene or Fluvio - Marine were deposited in the trough between . As successive layers

emerged erosion and denudation agam became active , but the upheaval continued and Hampshire came into being . Whether the later Tertiary strata ever formed a continuous sheet or cap over the whole chalk area we do not know , as during emergence marine erosion must have competed with upheaval , but at all events active denudation began to remove the upper layers , if not to lay bare the chalk itself . Rivers began to carve out the valleys along lines somewhat as we see them

- H to day , and ampshire began to assume its present shape , a core of chalk thrown into folds , with Tertiary sands and clays in the troughs between . The coast line

S on was of chalk , extending eastward from tudland a line considerably south of the present Isle of Wight coast ; and the Solent and Southampton Water of to - day formed parts of a big river system flowing in an easterly direction with its mouth somewhere near

Brighton . S ince then , though changes of level have occurred , there has been no general submergence of the whole area . The general change has been to wear away the upper layers , sometimes so completely that not only has the Tertiary cap in many places been entirely got rid of , but much of the chalk has been removed also , while in others small Tertiary patches or outliers still remain i n s itn . The river valleys have grown deeper and wider , and the general land level has been lowered enormously ,

38 H AM PSH I RE

’ to south of St Catherine s Point . The scour of the tide along the Dorset coast steadily cut this chalk back w more and more , while the continued pitting and s inging S l of the olent across its val ev deepened the river bed ,

th e S till finally chalk barrier gave way , and the olent

- became an arm of the sea . The chalk sea wall once broken through , erosion of the soft Bournemouth sands proceeded swiftly— the sea coast was cut back north

e wards , the Lower Avon deep ned its bed and its di l gra ent grew continuously steeper , til finally it

- flow captured the water from the higher levels , and the whole Avon system was di verted into its present course . SO far we have dealt mainly with the foundation “ S e strata or olid G ology as it is termed , but above these he extensive sheets of s urface depo sits known as

“ D d Of rift , the result of erosion and re istribution the uppermost layers of soil . The erosive effect of — water on chalk is not merely mechanic al the washing away of matter— but a direct solvent or chemical action l hi takes place as wel , and t s , exerted both on and below

Of the surface , is one of the chief causes the deep hollows and rounded depressions found everywhere on the Chalk D H owns , the best ampshire example being the Punch ”

Ch esford H . bowl at ead , near Winchester But while this solvent action has removed much of the chalk of the upp er layers , it has left behind enormous masses f h O flint and other insoluble matter . In t is way t h e soil usually found covering the chalk has be en

“ S formed . We have poken of the hazel loam and

4 0 HAM PSH I RE

- - in s fl t . clay with The former is a light , stony , easily- worked soil in which small weathered flints f abound . In many places , however , a sti f dark red brown clayey soil containing angular flint - stones in “ ” Of large quantities occurs , instead the hazel loam . This is termed clay - with - flint s and is probably broken down Tertiary matter mingled with undissolved scourings from the chalk . It is found in isolated patches

n practically all over the chalk plateau , sometimes eve m perched on the very su mits , as for instance at Linken 00 holt , at a height of over 7 feet , and above Combe 00 at a height of 9 feet . On the eastern side of the chalk plateau it forms an extensive shee t from F roxfi eld and F H ilmer ill to beyond Medstead , as is well shown by the widespread use of flint in this area as material

“ ” for building . The Plateau gravel also mentioned

e occurs in patches over the upper levels , . g . at Si lchester , but its main development is over the F “ V New orest , where it forms great sheets . alley gravels occur mainly in terraces fringing the river

on valleys , as near Romsey the Test , and the marshy valley bottoms contain considerable quantities of peat . All these gravels are deeply impregnated with iron , S which gives them their rich ruddy colour . olvent

to action by air and water , however , tends remove this iron , and the upper layers of gravels , especially in ex posed places , frequently become entirely bleached . In the New F orest the exposed gravel is sometimes almost dead white . The characteristics of the Drift in this coun ty are GEOL OGY 4 1

extremely variable , and local industries , such as pottery

- l and brick making , as wel as agriculture , depend as

or much , even more on it than on the solid geology .

S of udden changes conditions are frequent , and on one and the same farm the soil may vary from light sand and loam to heavy clay , while close at hand may be a ch lk down covered with dry pasture . The characteristics of the chalk plateau have been f di — su ficiently in cated the broad swelling curves , the dry hollows and combes , and the deeper valleys watered by clear streams . The Tertiary formations to the south and north call for no detailed discussion here , but the Selborne (Middle and Lower Cretaceous) area presents characters quite distinct from the rest of t h e county

S t e al elborne itself is on h Lower Ch k , but east of it

out - d efi n ed the Older beds crop in well belts , Upper i l . Greensand , Gau t , and Lower Greensand The f rst h named is ighly ferruginous , and blocks of ironstone , often of considerable size , are of frequent occurrence .

“ ” Along with it are found strata of malmstone

fi rest on e a hard sandy rock , locally also termed or free stone . The Gault , which succeeds the Upper Green sand , forms a narrow belt curving from Bentley to Peters — fi eld a t . stiff , dark blue clay impervious to wa er The — F S Lower Greensand series olkstone , andgate , and

H - ythe Beds are also ferruginous , the last named con taining a hard stone called chert , and beds of hard

B a r at e sandy limestone known as g stone , formerly in great request for building . The surface characters of this district are very marked and interesting . The 4 2 H AM PSH I RE

h chalk plateau ends in a sharp high ridge , from whic beds of malmstone protrude in terraces , the whole forming a steep escarp ment or land cliff run

ning north and south . Land slides are fre u quent , as the Ga lt clay beneath retains the moist ure and forms a slippery surface on which the upper layer creeps c o n ti n u o u s l y do w n

wards . Thus the sur face Of the fields is

curiously billowy , land marks are subj ect to slow continual move

ment , and hedgerows once straight become

wavy and curving . The b ig l a n dsl i de n e a r Hawkley in 1 774 is mentioned by Gilbert

Dia g ra m showin g fewn ess of White . Settlem en ts in th e Ga ult a rea The various forma a n in E . H ts tions are clearly marked = (S h a d ed a rea Ga n lt) not only by the general

Of character their contours , but also by their vegeta tion and other surface features . The weathered

of malmstone the Upper Greensand , enrich ed by GE O L OGY 4 3

Of washings marl from the Lower Chalk above , forms t an excellen medium for hop culture , and a line of il E S E v lages , Binsted , ast Worldham , elborne , mpshott H and awkley follow along the Greensand outcrop . But ,

t h e l once Gau t to the east is reached , the surface changes to rich open grassland covered with dense patches

dl o ak of woo and , almost exclusively , which here revels in the strong heavy soil . The Gault belt wa s probably

one of the last areas in the county to become inhabited , as the heavy impervious soil defied the rude cultivation of early days , and villages are even now almost entirely absent along its length . But immediately the Gault

Of is passed a line settlements again appears , Kingsley ,

Oa kh a n er P et ers fi eld g , Blackmoor , Greatham , Liss , and marking the water - line along the Lower Greensand F outcrop . The olkestone Beds form a hungry , sandy , barren waste as Gilbert White phrases it the Sand t gate Beds are less permeable , and marshy spo s abound in them wh ile open heath and mingled timber mark

H F ew the ythe Beds . parts can compare with this in t picturesqueness , and the rich grow h of bracken , furze , and heather of Weaver ’s Down and Liphook are a glorious sight in autumn .

Of the Tertiary outliers , of which we have spoken ,

H r o se d own . the best marked is Common , near Crondall Another interesting local feature is the occurrence of large masses of hardened sandstone or conglomerate

- h known locally as Sarsen stones or Grey wet ers . A large

—or — one occurs near Twyford , and many are were to x l th e e be found in the F ro fi e d area . Years ago v wer 4 4 HA M PSH I RE

much more numerous , but they have now been largely broken up for road metal and building material . An interesting evidence of change of level . is the raised

- 1 0 sea beach , now 4 feet above the sea , best shown

P ort sd own near the Nelson Monument on , and trace

a t able points along the Test and Itchen valleys , as well as eastward along the coast as far as Goodwo od in Sussex .

N a t ra H s tor 7. u l i y

We have already seen how , during the Ice Age , glacial conditions prevailed over Britain , thus destroying all s plants save tho e of Arctic type . When temperate conditions returned a slow re - establishment of v eg e t ation E took place from the uropean mainland , to which Britain was at that time joined , and the present flora , like the fauna , of our land is thus of similar general character to that of the continent of

E urope . Hampshire pres ents a great diversity of soil and t climate , so that we should naturally expec a con sid era ble richness of species whether of plants or animals . But , in addition to this , the untouched nature of much of the county , its extensive open s heaths and woodlands. its marshes and bog both F e in the New orest and lsewhere , have made much ” of n it practically a reserve or sanctuary , wherei

r or survive many fo ms of animal , bird , plant life which

4 6 HA M PSHIRE human interference has elsewhere rendered rare or extinct . There are nearly 1 2 00 species of flowering plants

H a n d e found in ampshire , of th se a good number have their chief range within the county limits . Thus about 1 80 species found in Hampshire are absent from both

1 0 Wiltshire and Berkshire , 5 from the Isle of Wight ,

1 2 0 S 60 D from urrey , and about from both orset and S x usse . Most noticeable perhaps , of all , are the great

th e timber trees which spread over so much of county , and the hedge timber , some of it not improbably the remains of the primeval forest wh ich once covered nearly the whole area . Along the chalk upland , the beech — is the most conspicuous t ree thoug h here and there — the yew vies with it and many of t h e highest points are crowned with a clump or possibly a dense wood

e too m of beeches . These be ch woods , , in any places , clothe the sides of the chalk slopes , forming the

- of well known hangers or hanging woods , which S r H elbo ne anger is perhaps the best known . The

finest beech wood is Mark Ash in the New Forest , and th e beeches in Hackwood Park are also remarkable for their size . E qually characteristic in its way is the yew— some H — times called the ampshire weed , found mainly , f . di but not exclusively , on chalky soil It is widely fused

n t - over the central , norther , and nor h eastern parts of th e county , and is conspicuous on the grand chalk

s H downs fro m But er to Old Winchester ill . In ancien t

e times it was xtensively planted , and nearly every

4 8 HAM PSHI RE

Hampshire church yard has its yew tree , while wonderful hedges and topiary work of t h is tree are common in H ampshire gardens . Among the larger and more S famous churchyard yews are the yew at elborne , which in 1 879 measured 2 43 feet in circumference S H 4 feet from the ground , that at outh ayling , and the

Cotta g es nea r Hurs ley

(Yew a n d B eech on th e ch a lk s lop es a bov e)

enormous clipped yew at Twyford . An avenue of ancient giant yews lines one of the roads at Preston t H Candover . A qui e characteristic ampshire View

a n d will show the chalk slopes bearing beech yew above , and at the bottom of the hollow a hamlet or cluster of buildings , with elm , sycamore , or chestnut revealing the presence of a deeper soil . The oak is common , NATURA L HI STORY 4 9

especially in the New Forest , and the areas of the London Clay and Gault are marked by the splendid H F oak belts which cover them . Alice olt orest is almost entirely com

of posed th is tree . The largest oak in the New F orest is

Kn i h twood the g Oak , t h r e e m il e s f r o m

Lyndh urst . F ew trees in th e c o u n t y a r e m o r e widespread than the S c o t c h fi r , w hi c h forms extensive belts all along the sandy s o i l s a n d s p r e a ds n at u r a l l y w i t h re markable quickness . Whether it is native to the county or not is a debated ques

Kn i h tixrood Oak tion , but much has g N w F ores t (L a rg est Oa k in th e e ) been planted , and the whole district of Bournemouth has within a hundred years or so All become covered with magnificent fir woods . over the New F orest great plantations of it exist , and the trees planted closely together send up long straight stems specially useful for telegraph poles .

D 5 0 HAM PSH I RE

The most characteristic hedgerows are those which outline the cultivation limit along the lower edges of D much of the Chalk owns , particularly along the northern heights of the county . Many of these , as has been E already pointed out , are of natural growth . qually characteristic , too , on these slopes is the juniper , found

» widespread on the open down all over the chalk country, The sea - shore plants alone form a numerous series : the sandy cliffs or dunes of Bournemouth and Hayling ; the

i of mud flats of Lym ngton and Beaulieu estuaries , Ports mouth and Langston Harbours and Southampton Water ; the dry shingle of Calshot Spit all have their character i ul is t c flora . One leading and most usef sand plant is the

Ammo h ila a run din a cea Marram grass ( p ) , spreading by

- creeping root stocks , some three feet deep , and holding

the thin sand together . It is found in sandy places along H the sh ore , from Boscombe as far as ayling Island . The H mud flats along the river estuaries at Beaulieu , ythe ,

S . outhampton Water , etc , are covered with great

S a rtin a stricta growths of cord grass ( p ) . An interesting

- S a rtin a species of this , the many spiked cord grass ( p

a ltern i ora - S a rtin a Town sen di fi ) , with the sub species p has S established itself now for many years at outhampton . Other familiar and characteristic sand and shore species

l E r n ium ma ritimum are the prickly sea ho ly ( y g ) , with its

A rmeria v ul a ris pale blue leaves , the sea pink ( g ) ,

S ta ti ce Limon ium - S a wd a sea lavender ( ) , sea blite ( — — ma ritima ) and the sea or horned poppy (Gla ucium u u E l te m) . Along the shore from xbury to Calshot

- the sea kale is still found abundantly . At one time NATURAL HI STORY 5 1

S immense quantities grew on Calshot pit , and here the shore folk used to cover the young sh oots with shingle to blanch them for the market . Curtis , the naturalist ,

F lora L on din ien sis ex eri author of the , first tried the p

- ment of cultivating the sea kale , and the new vegetable

on soon became popular the London market . Another

d B eta ma ritima - in igenous vegetable , , the sea beet , grows everywhere along the shingle , and is probably the parent of our garden beet and mangold wurzels .

H a t Mud eford ere and there too along the shore , as

H Crithmum ma ritimum and ayling , the samphire ( ) occurs , th ough never plentifully . It is much more abundant in the Isle of Wight , and samphire gathering , for pickling or perfume making , was formerly a distinct industry . Among the rare plants are the two species

on s eli en si s P littora lis r P ol o on m . of bea d grass ( yp g p ,and ) , which are found on the salt marshes at Portchester an d H Portsea . The ampshire shore plants are in fact extremely interesting . By many of the Hampshire streams the giant musk

Mimulus la ten s ( ) , an American plant naturalised here , is found brightening the banks in summer with A great splashes of brilliant yellow . nother American

e E lodea Ca n a d en si s introduction is the wat r thyme ( ) , which within the last sixty yea rs or so has spread everywhere along the streams . A plant now com

a ra tiv el Men a n th es tri olia ta p y rare is the buckbean ( y f ) , b ut the cotton grass (E ri oph orum polysta ch ia m) with its little white tufts nodding over the swamps , Drosera is common . All three species of sundew ( ) 5 2 H AM PSH I RE

f are widely di fused , forming ruddy patches on the peaty

P i n ui c soil of the swamps , and the butterwort ( g ula vulg a ris) and more than one species of bladderwort

Utricula ria ( ) are to be met with in the ponds and ditches . Of the specially uncommon species the purple gladiolus (Gla diolus illyricn s) and the Isnardia (Ludwig i a pa lustri s)

F E a n have their chief range in the New orest in ngland , d ’ the summer lady s - tresses (Spira n th es aestiva lis ) occurs H F t only in ampshire and in Wyre ores , Worcester .

- Over the dry chalk pastures , such plants as the rock rose

Helia nth emum v ul a re - or ( g ) , m , , , ilk wort red white blue ,

P ol a la vul a ris - A s erula ( yg g ) , squinancy wort ( p cyn a n ’ chica - S ira ea F ili en d ula ) , drop wort ( p p ) and salad burnet (P oterium S a ngui sorba ) are among the most character

is ic l t . Over the sandy stretches of W o mer and the New

t we wi Fores find the heaths gro ng freely , as well as the

yellow broom and the two species of gorse . In the same districts the whortleberry (Va ccin ium My rtillus) abounds : its berries are gathered by the country folk

and find a ready sale . The cranberry (Oxycoccus a lustris S p ) is found in bogs near Liss and elborne . H l ampshire is pecu iarly an orchid county , no less

- than twenty nine species occurring . Among the wood land types are the butterfly orchis (Ha ben a ria bif oli a and

Ha ben a ria chlora n th a Ce h a a ) , the white helleborine ( p l n th era ra n di ora - Li stera ov a ta g fl ) , tway blade ( ) , and others , while over the dry chalk pastures we find the bee orchis

O h r s a i era i O /i r s musci era ( p y p f ) , the fly orch s ( p y f ) , the

G mn a d en ia Con o sea fragrant orchis ( y p ) , and the frog

Ha bon aria viridi s h orchis ( ) , as well as many ot er species .

5 4 HAMPSHIRE

Histor ul i y , it wo d be hard to imag ne a clearer natural

- contrast than that between the juniper dotted , wind swept hills of the Hampshire highland and the rather

n tepid condition of the New Forest , laden with vegetatio l ” and fi led with springs , streams , and bogs , and this f di ference is exemplified in its plants and animals . On the northern uplands we find such birds as the Norfolk t plover and the do terel , though the latter is now a rarity . The New Forest is almost without a rival in our land as a sanctuary , and it abounds in plants , birds , and insects of interest and rarity . Another feature of the county is the occurrence of shallow sheets of water , ” F or Ponds , of which leet Pond is the best example , and these , too , are tenanted by a more or less special fauna and flora . The numerous marshy meadows tend

t o to add still further the long list of species . Beginning with the birds of prey we find the buzzard i u is vanish ng , the honey b zzard no longer breeds , and the hobby is becoming scarcer , but the peregrine is still far from uncommon . Blackgame are still to be found in certain localities . Of late there has been considerable increase in the numbers of many of the h a wfi n ch small birds , notably the starling ; and the ,

E . too , as in other parts of ngland , has multiplied The tufted duck is becoming more common , and breeds regularly in various places . In some seasons the cross bill is very numerous , attracted by the plantations of conifers , and they often nest , especially in the neighbour

of t h ood Bournemouth . At one time th at beau iful bird , the bearded tit , used to frequent the Avon , but N ATURAL HI STORY 5 5

it has long since departed . Two other rarities , how

— th e S ever , there are the waxwing and woodchat hrike which occur sporadi cally in winter and summer resp e c i l t v e . y There are several heronries in the county , and the great crested grebe breeds in the F leet and other F ponds . ine collections of Hampshire birds may be seen in the museums of Christchurch and Winchester

College . There is no special feature concerning the reptiles of the county which calls for remark except

o ca la mita that the natterj ack toad (a ) , easily recog nisable by the yellow line down its back , is found locally in some abundance . The adder is common , especially in F the New orest .

As a tro ut - fi s h ing county few are more famous than

H al ampshire , and the Itchen and Test are especi ly notable rivers . The trout occurs practically in all the streams suitable for it , but the grayling is confined to the Test , Itchen , and Avon . At one time salmon were abundant in the rivers of the county , but this is no

F or lon ger the case . some time past they have been t a re decreasing in numbers , but hey still found in the

S . three rivers j ust mentioned , as well as in the tour F o The New orest , as might be supp sed , is a remarkably

l - not good col ecting ground , only for Lepidoptera , but also for beetles , of which there are many rare species , and several that are found nowhere else . 5 6 HA M P SH I RE

8 . T h s . T d . r e Coa t i e s E os ion . h H T ough ampshire is a maritime county , it may almost be described as a maritime county without a coast line , for along more than half of its length the shore is protected from the direct influence of the sea by the

Isle of Wight , so that only between Bournemouth and H H urst Castle on the western side , and at ayling Island di on the eastern does it lie rectly open to the Channel . It is this that gives the maritime waters of Hampshire the special character of being practically inland waters .

F of urthermore , the rock formation the whole coast H is everywhere of a soft and yielding nature . ence only at the Bournemouth end are there any cliffs worth

of Hen istbur H speaking , and only at g y ead is there F a promontory of anything like boldness of form . rom

Hen istbur the landscape point of view , apart from g y

H . ead , the Isle of Wight dominates everything Never th eless there is much to attract and very much to interest H a along the ampshire co st , and several extremely important problems of tide and of coastal change can be studied here as they can in no other place . The coast of Hampshire co n sists of a foreshore of

w f of sand or shingle , ith here and there cli fs very moder ate elevation , intersected at intervals all along its length

- by river estuaries , either funnel shaped or broadened f t out into lagoons . The cli fs along the western ex remity from Bournemouth and Hen g istb ury to Milford- on - Sea are of sand and clay , and are cut by deep , wind — — THE C OAST T IDE S EROS I O N 5 7

ing ravines called Chines at Bournemouth , and

Bun n e s E y further east . verywhere else we find

o r either mud banks a foreshore covered with shingle , though from F areham to Cosham there is a bold cliff or escarpment fronting the shore some miles inland . Along their shores these estuaries are fringed with great

B a nks o n n Bo n o r me Chi e , ear ur em uth

- mud banks , mostly covered with the characteristic

S a rtin a H long coast grass , p . Christchurch arbour forms h a kind of lagoon to the west Portsmout , Langston , and Chichester Harbour a continuous lagoon with some large islands in it to the east and between them are

- u the funnel shaped estuaries of Lymington and Beaulie , H — and of the Test , Itchen , and amble the latter three 5 8 HAMPSHI RE

S t h e all opening into outhampton Water . Be tween Isle of Wight and the mainland come the Solent and S — S pithead both of them inland waters , pithead having S the character of a roadstead , and the olent rather that of a broad river , so much so indeed that sailors always

Shin g le Spit (1 5 miles l on g ) a t Wes tern E n d of S olen t

H urs t Ca stle i s a t th e ea stern en d o th e s i t wi th mud a ts i n th e ( f p , fl t a r a o t e a s t llu tra tes la w o ea s twa rd d ri t s h el ered e t h e . I s f f )

speak of it as The River . Place this soft and estuarine t coast , these wa erways and the Isle of Wight in the

- E middle of a trumpet shaped sea , the nglish Channel , broadening out to the west , and we have the problem

a of tide n d coastal loss or gain clearly before us . To understand this problem we must first study the i tidal action of the Ch annel as a whole . Wh le particular THE C O AST—TIDE Sé -ERO S I ON 5 9

al loc conditions are very complex , one main principle w — E D operates every here the law of astward rift . The tidal wave rising in the Atlantic causes a broad swell over the wide mouth of the Channel from Brest ’ E n d u to the Land s , which passes up Channel as p a narrowing funnel , each point of the coast serving , as c ul the wave reaches it , as the entre of a fresh tidal p se ,

- k f in accordance with the well nown laws o wave motion . E astward the wave sweeps with a scour that grows i n intensity the further it advances , carrying with it the loose stones , shingle , and sand that lie round the shore , a d o f n cutting into the base the foreshore as it goes .

al When the tide f ls the conditions are reversed , but the receding waters flow from a narrow channel towards

- an ever widening one , and though the scour westward serves to some extent to move the sand and shingle w back again , it does so ith diminished force . Thus , every tide tending to carry eastward more ma terial than it brings back , the detritus is continually being transported eastward . The material of the beach at any particular spot will depend on the kind of rocks to the westward of it , but its coarseness or fineness depends on the intensity r dl of scour . The coarser the mate ial the more rapi y r it is deposited ; the finer it is , the longer it emains in a state of suspension , only settling in comparatively smooth water . At a point or headland directly in the line of scour we s hall perhaps find no beach at all ; where the scour is less direct we shall find shingle and only i n sheltered areas where the flow is very slack 60 HAMP SHIRE

d shall we find fine sand or mu . Thus the parts where u there is rapid sco r are points of erosion , and those of t quiescence end to be points of deposition , and all along the Channel the estuaries and lagoons tend to silt up and sandbanks to form in quieter spots away from shore . These points are well illustrated in many parts of H the ampshire coast . At the mouths of Christchurch H H arbour , at urst Castle , Beaulieu River , Calshot ,

H e xtM a n W Portsmouth arbour , and to a less g and Chichester Harbours we find long low spits of shingle and sand all running out eastward and more or less

- of the same character , while round the north east corner of each there is usually a patch of quiet water where mud flats tend to form . These spits of shingle , whose mode of formation will be readily understood from what has gone before , are not of course confined to H i ampshire , as Ches l Beach exhibits the same character istics H in a very marked way . urst and Calshot are H the best examples of these ampshire spits , and the advantage they posses s for defensive purposes was ' early recognised .

More remarkable , however , than either of these , from the rapid variations of form and extent it is liable to assume , is the natural mole or shingle bank that lies F d athwart the mouth of Christchurch Harbour . orme

Hen istbur ~ it from the wear of Bournemouth and g y , extended in 1 91 0 as a low bank between one and two 80 2 00 miles in length , and with a width of from to yards , roughly parallel to the shore , leaving a long narrow

62 HAM PSHI RE channel varying from 1 00 to 2 00 yards in width along which the outflow from the Harbour passed to the D 1 1 0 sea . In ecember 9 exceptionally high seas broke H through the bank close to Christchurch arbour , and the breach became the outlet to the sea . In less

n tha twelve months the bank again began to develop , and it is gradually working eastward once more . In the inland waters of Hampshire we find a different set of tidal conditions from those prevailing - n the

n e open Channel . We have what is commo ly t rmed

T e e the double tide . h gen ral tidal movement making from the westward is split at the Needles , and while S part of the flood passes up the olent , the main body sweeps round the south of the island and enters Spithead from the east , reacting with the other body of water and thus causing two periods of maximum high water . The intervals between the two maxima are as follows

S o en t l . ith ea d S p . ’ ’ 6o H Cowes , ythe , 77 ’ ’ 1 1 0 S Beaulieu , outhampton , 97 ’ ’ 1 1 0 1 1 0 Lymington , Redbridge , ’ ’ 1 2 0 Yarmouth , Calshot , 55 ' H t 1 2 0 urs , ’ 1 0 Christchurch , 5 During the period between the two maxima the varia — tion of depth is very slight thus at P orstmo uth the time required for a variation of one foot at high water

2 , 2 H is hours and at Lee 5 hours , but at Calshot , amble , H S 1 Netley , ythe , and outhampton it is about 33; hours . — THE C O A ST TIDE S—ERO S I O N 63

These figures show us that while in Spithead the effect of l this double tide , as it is cal ed , is merely that of prolonged

al n S a nd S high water , o g outhampton Water the olent two definite maxima are reached , the intervals between S them increasing as we get farther from pithead . Nor f S is the e fect of this confined to the olent ; it is felt , though with diminishing intensity , as far along the coast

t h e as Portland , interval increasing progressively the

r fa ther west we go . At Weymouth th e double tide corresponds with low water instead of high water , and

Weymouth has therefore a double low tide , known ” Guld er locally as the . S The double tide , by prolonging high water in outh t amp on Water and the adj acent channels , has been a material feature in the commercial development of the port of So uthampton . It has been noted as a

of peculiarity our coast by the earliest observers , and

t e d escri Bede , writing in h eighth century , gives a p tion of the phenomenon wh ich is as correct as it is

Vivid . While little can as a rule be done permanently t o

arrest erosion , it can often be delayed and sometimes entirely checked in certain spots by b uilding sea walls ' lat ter a re and groynes . The barriers of timber or stone running out to seaward from th e foreshore at right

- e angles . The sea borne detritus , . g . shingle and sand ,

collects on these groynes , heaping itself at first up the western side (law of E astward Drift) until perhaps

al the whole is fin ly covered . When this is the case the groynes remain as a permanent barrier guarding the 64 H AM PSH IRE

foreshore from erosion at its base . It will thus be seen that the cartage of shingle from the foreshore f is highly inadvisable , as it removes its most e ficient protection . The chief erosion spots along the Hampshire coast a re ' from Southbourne to Hurst on the west and Hayling on the east . At Bournemouth erosion has been going H on at the rate of about one foot a year , and at engist bury Head and Highcliffe the coast has been cut back during the last sixty or seventy years to the depth of

1 from 1 2 to 5 feet a year . There is a considerable quantity of ironstone at

Hen is tbur g y , and this was at one time collected from the h foreshore as well as quarried , and was s ipped to Wales for smelting . This removal of loose material has been very inj urious to the whole locality . The huge sand bank e t this spot has not only rendered Christchurch

H t e arbour useless for commerce , but by directing h out

' flow of the river against the cliffs at Highcliffe it is threatening to undermine th em . Moreover , the bar at the mouth keeps up the level and so tends to cause submergence of the low - lyin g grazing lands higher up the river . Further east from Hordle and Milford a rapid was ting of the coast is again experienced , the shingle being carried H towards urst , while the finer detritus settles out in the channel forming the great sandbank called Shingles D d Ledge , a part of which , called olphin Bank , is expose at low tides . The position of this bank , owing to tidal changes , is very variable , and it is sometimes THE CO AST —TIDE S—ERO S I O N

spoken of as the Moving Island . Within the Solent the mud flats off Lymington and Beaulieu are in a sheltered area , but even so the soft mud is liable to be washed away at times of specially high tide . Off

l a re Beau ieu these mud flats growing in extent , as de position is assisted by the recent growth on them of the

S a rtin a w l - F p , kno n local y as rice grass . rom Beaulieu t River to Calsho the scour is more active , and h ere groynes h ave been erected to arrest the movement of the shingle . — At Hayling Island again erosion is active at one place in E ast Stoke Bay the sea is said to have encroached

6 1 0 1 0 . 3 feet between 9 4 and 9 7 Indeed , large areas H i of ayl ng Island have been lost in h istoric times , and the land where the earlier church stood has been sub merged . Groynes have been erected by private owners H in ayling Bay , and appear to have a satisfactory f e fect . While erosion is thus active at certain parts Of our

al coast , it has been counterb anced at others by reclama tion of the foresh ore . This , in the quieter areas where natural deposition tends to occur , can be carried out i by erecting barriers to seaward a n d d raining the land S so recovered . Thus , at outhampton , the dock and railway companies have in recent years reclaimed 180 2 2 acres and the Corporation , while at Lymington the railway company have reclaimed 1 00 acres . The greatest local reclamation in recent years has been in — H . the Isle of Wight viz . that of Brading arbour In i H 1 8 clud ng the Isle of Wig ht , ampshire lost 9 acres

E 66 HAM PSHIRE

1 8 6 1 8 8 2 a eres by erosion between 5 and 97, but gained 5

reclamation w a f by di ference of one square mile . Th e n aviga tion of our Hampshire channels and waterways is greatly affected by the sandbanks a n d their tendency to shift , and were it not for the special tidal conditions already discussed Southampton Water would very possibly be comparatively unnavigable ,

As it is , its deep water channel or fairway (5 fathoms) t Off contracts in places o very narrow dimensions .

Calshot itself it is barely a quarter of a mile wide , and

- from that point it takes a course south west , so that ocean - going steamers leaving Southampton Water bear right over towards Cowes whether proceedi ng down All S Spithead or the Solent . through pithead sand

or banks occur , marked by bell buoys lightships , and off Portsmouth there are others , on some of which forts b — H S ’ S h ave een erected orse and , No Man s Land , pit F ort , etc .

Lighthouses and lightships are numerous . The

H E t h e Needles , urst , gypt Point at Cowes , Calshot ,

an d Warner , the Nab are among the best known . Of these the Needles Lighthouse and Hurst are the most important . Both of them are occulting , and visible

1 about 5 miles . The possibility of the existe nce in Roman times of a ford or even an actu al land connection between Gurnard Bay in the Isle of Wight and the mainland at Stone

Point is a question which has been much discussed . Numerous traditions and some direct evidence favour D H it - :an d roa d ra n e , a Roman from ibden , near yth , CLIMATE 67

to Stone Point . Alth ough the greatest depth of the 66 intervening ch annel is as much as feet , the soundings are known to have increased by 1 0 feet in the last 1 50 years .

C ma te 9 . li While by weather we mean the particular atmo spheric conditions of the moment , the word climate sums up their general tendency and results , together with the seasonal changes usually experienced over a series of years . Temperature , wind , rain and snow , dew , cloud , humidity , and sunshine are among the chief factors in connection with climate . The chief conditions on which climatic phenomena depend are

i . ( . ) Latitude

- (ii . ) The general character of the air currents .

(iii . ) Position in relation to land and sea masses , including elevation .

We may consider these three for a moment . Latitude

is , naturally , a very potent factor . Roughly speaking , E of course , the nearer a place is to the quator the warmer e t h . it is , and the nearer Pole , the colder But there are many exceptions to this rule , and we find the points of greatest h eat and cold to coincide with neither of these , but to occur in the middle of large continents like Africa and Australia and in north - east Siberia respectively . In some places the isotherms may even run north and south instead of east and west . 68 HAM PSHIRE

Wind or air - flow is always from areas of high baro Of metric pressure to those lower pressure , and the British Isles lie between two large areas of fairly — constant pressure a high pressure area over Central E urope , and a low pressure area between Iceland and f Greenland . The di ference of pressure between these two areas causes a general circulation of air of a rotary m character , which drifts over these islands ainly from

- - south west to north east . But as Great Britain is at the border of E urope (a great land mass) and the Atlantic Ocean (a great sea mass) over each of whi ch f quite di ferent systems of climate prevail , it is very largely a matter of chance , as it were , what type of conditions we shall be affected by at any particular — moment the oceanic or the continental . When the former prevail , low pressure rotary systems , known as cyclones , pass over the country . Pressure being lowest in the centre , the wind sweeps inwards , and precipitation , producing rain or snow , follows . When the continental type prevails we have high pressure systems , or anti cyclones , in which , pressure being highest at the centre , the wind blows centrifugally and precipitation is p ra cti cally impossible . Cyclonic conditions are marked by variable winds , changing weather , and rain anticyclonic

. l by clear skies , little wind , and no rain It is the pecu iar position of Great Britain , on the debateable area or ’ no - man s land between two regions over which these two systems operate , th at causes the extreme variable

ss ness and proverbial fi cklene of our weather . In E ngland by far the largest amount of precipita

70 HAMPSHIRE

tion is in the form of rain , though snow and dew are r other forms too , and have an impo tant place also in agriculture . The causes of rain may be briefly sum

ri i ma sed . The atmosphere everywhere holds with n it a certain amount of moisture in the form of vapour , and if the air is warm it is able to contain more than if

t e it is cool . When h air holds all the moisture possible at any given temperature it is said to be saturated , and if , when saturated , air is chilled , it gets rid of its

. d moisture and rain falls If , on the other hand , saturate air is warmed it becomes unsaturated and proceeds to acquire additional moisture from seas , lakes , rivers , marshes , etc . , until it again becomes saturated at the higher temperature . If it is further heated, more moisture is picked up , and so on . When , therefore , air in motion is getting steadily warmer it becomes a drying wind ; but when it is progressively cooled its course is marked by showers of rain . There are several causes that result in air being

i one cooled , but the ch ef operating over land and sea is the well - known physical fact that if air passes into a space where it has opportunity to expand , temperature

all S immedi ately f s . uch spaces occur at higher eleva tions where the air is less dense , and the pressure con sequently less . On the other hand , the temperature of the air rises when it is , for any reason , crowded into D a smaller space . epressions such , for instance , as the central parts of cyclones , are th erefore associated

al with rainf l , while over the high pressure areas associ ated with anticyclones the weather is almost invariably CLIMATE 71

Th e fi n e . passage of a cyclone or anticyclone over a ny di strict therefore brings rain or drought independently of any influence of land masses . But the presence of u land masses , especially if high land , exerts a powerf l

n influence also o precipitation . In passing over hills the air is forced upwards into the colder region of lower

al pressure always existing at the higher titudes , and the consequent fall of temperature often brings about

D t e rain . uring h descent on the leeward side of the di hill , the con tions are reversed , and this side is there E fore drier than the other . As in ngland cyclonic

- conditions are associated with south west winds , and as the chief elevations in the British Isles are in th e al S H west , in Ireland , W es , and the cottish ighlands ,

ill we a ss it w be seen that as p from west to east , the 80 rainfall becomes less and less , varying from over inches u a year in Killarney , Glamorgan , and C mberland (it actually reaches about 1 2 0 inches at Borrowdale) to

0 S 2 - 4 inches over alisbury Plain , from 5 inches to 375 H inches over the greater part of ampshire , down to E under 2 0 in Cambridgeshire and parts of the ast Coast . The general di stribution of rainfall in Hampshire pre

x . sents , therefore , no e treme feature The importance of climatic statistics has only been recognised of late years . The records of rainfall , temperature , sunshine , etc are now systematically collected by an ever - increasing body of observers all over the country , and there is every hope that , as the al work is extended , the gener principles governing weather phenomena generally will emerge more and 72 HA MPSHIRE

more clearly . Much information has been obtained as ul the res t of the recent development of air navigation . Rainfall is reckoned by the average number of inches

a r of rain per year , but the actual f ll in any one yea may F 1 888 1 0 be very variable . rom to 9 5 there occurred a regular succession of one wet year followed by two 1 0 dry years , 9 3 being the wettest year of the period with an excess of 43 per cent . over the average , and 1 8 0 w 2 . 7 the driest year , ith a deficiency of 4 per cent It is further to be observed that the whole country is passing through a cycle of years throughout which mild weather rules . The general principles we have referred to are re flect e d more or less closely by the distribution of rainfall

H - in ampshire . If we were to follow the south west wind inland from the coast we should pass over regions of increasing and decreasing rainfall more or less as we found ourselves to windward or leeward of the higher elevations . The Isle of Wight , with its high ridges ,

t e accentuates this blanketing effect , so that h region round Portsmouth Harbour is one of low rainfall i (2 5 nches to inches per annum) . Over the New F orest a maximum of about 35 inches is reached , after

t he S which the rainfall diminishes , but in elevated outh Downs region all round P ete rsfi eld a decidedly higher maximum inches) is attained .

of l The g reater part the Test va ley is , as we should

of 2 expect , a region low precipitation ( 5 inches to inches) but curiously enough the highest rainfall in the Test valley is at its southern end near Southampton CLIMATE 7

Water . The driest part of the county lies at its

- - north eastern extremity , in the low lying Loddon valley .

How far surface characters , apart from elevation , influence rainfall is an interesting question . Thus F S N E W . . . in crossing the New orest along our line ( . to ) 2 we rise from 5 inches to a maximum of over inches , F falling again as we leave the orest , yet the elevation 00 is nowhere over 4 feet , and the general level very much lower . It is probable that the increased rainfall recorded is due in part to the large area of woodland .

al Again , we may note th at the greater rainf l occurs over the chalk or greensand , while the Tertiary belts , F apart from the New orest , receive decidedly less . The general distribution of rainfall in the county is 6 given in the map on p . 9 .

t o f H The driest mon h the year in ampshire is April .

r to Octobe is the wettest month , and from April

October the average rainfall regularly increases , de creasing again in an equally regular manner till April again is reached . l H The prevai ing wind over ampshire , as over the

l - British Isles genera ly , is west or south west . The average temperatures over the cdunt y reflect the general mild E character of the south of ngland . The northern region r m is cloudie and more hu id than the southern , so that the total quantity of bright sunshine di minishes as we leave the coast proceeding northward . The sunniest part of the Channel coast is a strip extending westward from Beachy Head through Southampton to Lyme 74 HAMPSHIRE

th e l H Regis , and whole coasta fringe of ampshire , with th e S S l olent and pithead , as wel as the Isle of Wight , is included in this maximum sunshine strip .

1 0. P e . op le P op ula tio n . Dia l e ct

Hampshire has been peopled by human beings for vast ages . Long before the Isle of Wight became cut off H from the mainland , and the ampshire streams had carved out their present valleys , early races of mankind roamed over the Hampshire of that day . These men fli used nt implements , rudely chipped and shaped , which

for we find the most part in the river gravels . We thus — term these people the men of the River Drift or men

P l li i i e a mo h . S of the t c ( . Ancient tone) Age . Later— and probably after a considerable interval of

- a time , though the question is still unsettled superior people came on the scene . They used implements of fl int and bone , but of much more skilful workmanship . u Many of these are beautif lly wrought , finely shaped , and not merely chipped , but ground and polished . Of S these people , whom we call the Neolithic or New tone men , we find remains all over the chalk downs . They lived mostly on the upper levels— the only spots at that time at a ll open or possible for human habitation they made clearings , which they gradually extended down the slopes , they pastured flocks and herds , and they used some primitive form of cultivation . Many of the

( 4 ” huge earthworks , or rings , which crown the ridges and summits of our Hampshire heights are their work . — PE OPLE—POPULATI ON DIALECT 75

— a We find their burial places mounds of long shape , — called long barrows and it was the people of this age , small of stature and with dolichocephalic (long and

r S na row) heads , who in Wiltshire erected tonehenge and

Avebury .

Then followed a more advanced race , larger of stature and with skulls of a rounder type (brachycephalic) than

of those of Neolithic man . These people knew the use metals , making weapons and implements of bronze , from ll which fact they are ca ed the men of the Bronze Age .

They burnt their dead and buried the ashes in urns . Their burial mounds may be seen everywhere o ver the chalk F uplands and the open heaths of the New orest , round in shape , sometimes occurring singly , sometimes in Li fi l S t ch e d . groups , as at the even Barrows at E Then other races followed . Celtic tribes from urope , moving ever westward in accordance with the great drift of population which has been in operation since

of the earliest ages mankind , spread in successive waves

f a over Britain . Two main streams o these folk h ve

distin uish ed w th e been g Goidels or Gaelic Celts , who peopled Ireland and the Scottish High lands ; and the r Brythons (Britons) who followed late . The Brythons , m who were users of iron i plements , remained in occupa tion till somewhere near the time of Julius Caesar . We speak of this period as the E arly I ron or Celtic Age .

Then lastly came Gaulish tribes from the Continent ,

Se ontia ci such as the Belgae , the Atrebates , and the g , and these and other tribes were in occupa tion in Hamp shire a t the time of the Roman invasion . 76 HAM PSHIRE

Compared with their predecessors the natives of ’ a l Britain in C esar s time were a high y civilised folk .

t o They were the first form regular towns and villages .

Agriculture was well developed , and many arts such

- as weaving , the making of pottery , and metal working

im le were practised by them . They made weapons and p e a n d ments of iron , used metal coinag , and had chariots horses for warfare . They engaged in regular commerce ,

- of . the tin trade in particular being importance The tin ,

t wa s r ob ained in Cornwall , brought eastward over regula H roads and tracks to the ports of Kent and ampshire ,

e w s whenc it a carri ed oversea by Phoenician mariners . Later waves of immigration belong to historical times . The Romans stamped their civilisation deeply on the county , providing it with a network of roads , and establishing towns or stations at many places , chief

Ven ta B el a rum among them being Winch ester ( g ) ,

S Ca llev a A treba tum S Cla us ilchester ( ) , outhampton ( ul e a m o P ortus A durn i . ) , and Portchester (p ssibly ) Under them commerce a n d agriculture were greatly developed , and much of our county was covered with

so- ill farms , the called Roman v as . Later , Roman

Britain was to a considerable extent a Christian country .

But , though they organised the country , the Romans A D 1 0 never peopled it , and when , about . . 4 , their legions were recalled , the people of the land were racially almost unaffected by the Roman occupation in spite of its long duration .

With the departure of the Romans , the country became again exposed to attack , and invaders poured

78 HAM PSHIRE

farers , they loved to establish themselves on the estu V aries and creeks , and are hence spoken of as ikings ,

- v i vik or creek men (from g or a fj ord or creek) . H hi In amps re , the site of a port for their vessels has been di scovered at Longstock on the upper Test .

S - D w axo anish rule gave ay in turn to Norman , and for some 2 00 years the Normans became the ruling di race , infusing elements of culture , of sciplined thought , of art and learning . But though th eir influence on the ruling class , and through them on the country , was profound , the general stock of the people remained little altered . Indeed , it is not too much to say that the mingled Anglo - Saxon stock from which our Old E nglish race was derived , exhibited from quite early days a remarkable power of absorbing and assimilating

f - t e peoples of many di ferent types , j ust as to day h British Colonial people sh ow the same power of retaining th eir racial characteristics while absorbing immigrants from E practically every uropean land .

It is difficult now to trace present - day physical

i Gewissas character stics to their original source . The

- were a fair haired race , and the blonde type prevails H D in parts of ampshire , as well as in Wilts and orset , but in the middle and north of the county the people are supposed to show a preponderance of the dark

type , possibly due to Wendish ancestors . The Jutish

- type , with long oval skull and face , flat cheek bones , and

- long nose , straight or aquiline , high under jaw , and well

developed chin , is still to be noticed among the people

of the Meon district . — — PEOPLE POPULATI O N D I ALECT 79

Since th e Norman period there h as been no infusion of fresh races on a large scale . In early Plantagenet .

s day Winchester had an important Jewish colony , with a ghetto and a synagogue of its own . In Tudor times various small settlements of Walloons were estab lis e d 1 6 1 00 h in the county , and in 5 7a body of were S granted permission to settle at outhampton . In

1 68 E 5 , after the Revocation of the dict of Nantes , F rench Huguenots took refuge in some number at

S i - outhampton , and th irty s lk looms were brought over V H here from Lille and alenciennes . Of these ugueno t

wa s H refugees , the most famous enri Portal , the founder H of what has since become a great ampshire family . It wa s he who started the paper indus try at Laver

- E d stoke , and bank note paper for the Bank of nglan S is still made in the Laverstoke mills . At outhampton the F rench Protestant community still preserves some a nd ul degree of continuity , its members meet reg arly for worship at the little historic church of God ’s House near the town quay .

H 1 1 1 The total population of ampshire in 9 , excluding the Isle of Wight , was being an increase since the former census of The density of p op ula 8 tion is 5 3 per square mile , or nearly one person to the

E al 61 8 acre . ngland gener ly has a population of to the square mile , and the greatest density of population 2 is in Lancashire , where the number of persons is 554 per square mile . The density of population over the county varies enormously . Apart from military centres , the districts 8 0 HAM PSHIRE growing most rapidly in population are the large urban areas . The largest urban area , Portsmouth and

Gosport , has a population of and is growing S at the rate of per cent per annum . outhampton and Woolston , at present grow at the rate of

per cent . per annum , and Bournemouth , now E shows an annual increase of per cent . ast leigh and Bishopstoke , owing to the removal thither

1 0 E in 9 9 from Nine lms , London , of the engine works W . S of the L and . Railway , have a population now of

T e an increase annually of per cent . h great -F military centres , Aldershot , arnborough , Bordon , and

Tidworth , all show large increases of population . One : or two individual parishes only show a decline thus , while there is practically no depopulation going on H in the rural parts of the county , urban ampshire is dl gaining ground rapi y .

The speech of our ' county is founded on the West S axon dialect , which became recognised as the standard di alect of the Old E nglish race through the literary H labours of Alfred, and prevailed in his day from amp shire and Berkshire as far north and west as Worcester shire and Gloucestershire . Recent investigation has shown that the vowel system of the West Saxon tongue was practic ally identical with that of th e much earlier H West Germanic parent tongue . Thus ampshire speech is not in the proper sense of the word a dialect — at all rather can we see in it some of the main char E a ct erist ics of the early nglish literary tongue . PLACE - NAMES

- m s 1 1 . P l a c e Na e

The different stages of land occupation can be most readily followed by a study Of the place - names n ow

all of on e or existing , nearly which have their origin in

of al other the early periods ready mentioned . The

e - earli st place names are Celtic , and refer almost entirely

l of t o a . natur features hill , wood , spring , and stream

Most are water names , and among them are

A n or A m z or a spring stream , as Anton , Andover

A m fi eld l Amport , p , Ampner and Andwel .

Dov er or Deoerz wa t er , as in Andover , Micheldever ,

Ouse t oo D . Candover , urley , Overton , and Ower ,

a lso = a H (locally Uss) , stream , and occurs in urstbourne

l Usseb ourn e Usslebur (loca ly ) , Owslebury (locally y) ,

Oxen b ourn e and Ouse itself . The

for Tweoxn a early Saxon name Christchurch , (later Twy n a m) at the meeting - point of the two rivers Stour

- Tw Ousen a or Two S . and Avon , is y , the treams The names Avon and Stour themselves are also of Celtic — A sh or A x E . origin . (also sse) water , occurs in W A sh let . Axford , Ash , Asholt , Ashley , , etc , and y

two . water , in Wymering , and the rivers Wey

l P en or , Of hi l names we have , a hill head in Inkpen ,

Cor= a h on the Berkshire border , and rounded ill , occurs in Corhampton .

be z , Cwm or com a hollow , is frequent , as in Combe C Testcomb e Chilcombe , ompton , Combe Wood , Combe

un z e d or S . B n Bolton , tancombe and elsewhere

F 8 2 HAM PSHIRE

bottom , in Chewton Bunney , and Beckton Bunney , the

P wlz ool deep river ravines in Christchurch Bay . p ,

P olh a m ton P olsd en P a uls rov e in p , , g , etc . Signs of the Roman occupation are mainly shown by

or the towns they founded , the roads they constructed .

h esters e c . V The fortified towns are , g . Winchester ( inton ,

V Bel a rum S l from enta g ) , Portchester , and i chester . From the roads we get stra t or strea t (= straight) as in

ld sa e St ra tfi eld Stra tfi e S . y , Turgis , and the trattons The Roman practice of marking distances along their roads by milestones may perhaps be preserved in

S t o toneham , referred in Bede as Ad Lapidem . The Saxon place - names tell us h ow the Saxon occupied the land and conquered in detail the formidable d iffi culties of soil , swamp , and thicket . In time the land became divided up more or less completely into estates or or on properties , the villeins dwellers each estate forming a separate and independent community under

or a lord owner , from whom they held their portion of t o land , and whom in return they owed service

of in some form . In a characteristic estate this kind

on ll cultivation was the Open field system , the vi eins grazed their animals in common on the pasture and

stubble , cut their timber , and fed their pigs in the woodland and the waste . The cultivation was care ll — fu y regulated the land was ploughed in acre strips ,

or each strip being four rods roods wide , and a furlong

= or 2 0 ( furrow long) ploughing length (2 yds . ) in extent . Th e of d width the strip was measured by wooden ro s , l 0 each 5 5 yds . long , and a norma holding (viz . 3 strips) , P L ACE - N AMES 8 3

v ir a or - was called a virgate (Lat . g ) , a yard land , both words having the same derivation and each mean

r ing od . The central area containing the dwellings of ” 1 the community was usually tyned or girded round for protective purposes by a fence of girds or t o tun or worth rods , and thus came be known as a

z r S (worth g a rth o yard) . ometimes these settlements

h a ms h a m z h om e were called ( ) . The tuns or worths were the nuclei of most of our towns or

of f villages , and hence the prevalence these su fixes in

- of t o - on 1 local place names day . The map p . 9 shows h ow S of our the axon settled by the streams county ,

al particularly the chalk streams , and in the Avon v ley ,

t on on e along which and worth crowd another .

“ ” 1 00 1 Out of nearly tons and 4 worths , about

80 on to tons are actually the chalk area , 7close the

1 2 or 1 of 1 Avon , and only 3 elsewhere , while the 4

on e n ot on worths there is only , Chilworth , the chalk

“ ” t o area . This is in marked contrast the hams . Out of 2 8 some 7Of these , only are in the chalk area , 3 near 1 6 the Avon , and in the other districts .

- The present day parish boundaries indicate , generally

of on e speaking , the lines ancient boundaries between ’ ’ lord s lands and another s , and the areas often tend — — towards on e of two types blocks or strips suggestin g that the fi rst - comers picked out the best land and

t o own made their boundaries suit their convenience , while later the mode of parcelling out was probably

“ 1 B ot word s e a n d ird s i exis i n a ri ra h , tyn g , t ll t g cultu l circles . 8 4 HAM PSHIRE

or by royal grant charter , and was thus more methodical .

In many cases the areas form long narrow strips , roughly

of rectangular and strangely exaggerated form , and nearly always running from on e well - d efi n ed limit t o E l S another . Thus cchinswel and ydmonton are two

six l long parallel strips , over mi es long , but only half

E -r a mile wide , stretching from the nborne river trans v ersel of D y across the ridge the N . owns , until they ’ l Cms a r s end at the Roman road , locally cal ed Belt ,

S t o S running from ilchester arum . Laverstoke is an

al equ ly extreme instance , stretching from the Roman road over the Upper Test Valley to the high ridge of 1 Popham Beacons . The strip principle can be traced in a very large number Of cases . In the neighbourhood of streams the strips run across the valleys , being bounded by the stream where the latter is broad , but where it is narrow running across it and up the

S ob slopes on both sides . uch an arrangement is v iously chosen t o give each strip its fair allowance o f

- or water and meadow land , arable , down , dry pasture , S S wood and waste . outh Tidworth , hipton Bellinger ,

Gra t el Thruxton , Quarley , and y , all form strips running ’ ll A nn directly athwart the hi slope Monxton , Abbot s , h Upper Clatford , Goodworth Clatford , and W erwell , are strips running across a stream .

Other Anglo - S axon names indicate the nature of the

or 01 settlement , its aspect , some other natural leading

1 L a verst oke p a ri sh b ound a ry on Popha m rid g e p oss ib ly m a rks a n unrecog nis ed Roma n roa d from Popha m L a ne Corne r s t o s o me p oint t o t h e we t .

8 6 H AM P SH I RE

S E prings are denoted by well , as cchinswell . The intermittent streams are bournes as Itch b orn e S n ombor e , etc .

Wood names are numerous . Clearings are cleres , H as Kingsclere , Burghclere , and ighclere ; wood

= W OOd - = occurs in Woodhay ( hedge) , Odiham ( woody

“ ” “ ” all ham) , etc ; holt , hurst , shaw , meaning

z wood of wood , in Linkenholt ( limes) , Brockenhurst = ’ ( badger s wood) , and Bramshaw . Woods growing

“ of or down the slopes a hill are hanging woods , hangers ,

Oakh a n er W olv ese as in g , and wild life is reflected in y ’ ’ ’ = W olmer = or ( Wolves Isle) , ( wolves mere wolves pond) , and Brockenhurst mentioned above . Wooded ” D dells are deans , as Bramdean and ibden . The

Celtic fortresses or entrenchments on the hill - tops the

S = e axons called bury ( burg , a fortress) , . g . Winkle

Da n eb ur bury , Woolbury y . Other names

i e or are patronymics , . . names indicating family descent

- among these are many ending in ing , as Basing ,

E of sin s lin a s Ba a E . ling , the settlements the g , g , etc

E z m E th elin sh a . llingham ( g ) , etc S o complete was the Saxon occupation that the D anes , though much in evidence here , have given their

Wi ckz z creek t o . names relatively few places , and

th or or th ro ffi x e . . p p village , are their chief su es , g ’ S i Swe n es on d iffi wanw ck ( y wick) the coast , but it is

t o Ib th or Swa n th or E cult explain p , p , and astrop , occurring in the northern corner of the county . Norman

n ot names are numerous , and are chiefly in the New — F . F r e . . o est g Beaulieu and Purlieu , also reemantle AGRICULTURE

r r 1 2 . A g icultu e

ul in H s i r Agric ture amp h re , as elsewhe e , depends on geological and climatic conditions , and these being very varied , the type of agriculture is also extremely

H in varied . istorically , agriculture . our county has undergone great changes . As late as Tudor times the manorial system with its open fields and tillage in common obtained . On the borders of the manors D stretched the owns , over which large flocks were fed .

S - r heep rea ing for wool was indeed the great industry , and Hampshire a most important centre for E nglish

- wool production . Of this open field system of cultivation no trace practically now remains , save here and there on sloping ground where the strips along which the soil was ploughed have left their mark on the surface of the land . The plough , passing continually lengthwise along the face ill of the h , gradually worked out the side of the slope

a into terraces , with narrow banks c lled balks between them Numerous traces of these linchets

. S or lynches , as they are termed , remain ome are a di extremely ncient , others are me eval , others quite S E modern . They may be seen at hawford , aston ,

Twyford , Woolbury , and elsewhere . With the wholesale depopulation caused by the D 1 visitation of the Black eath of 349 and other years , came the gradual break up of this manorial system . u Agriculture declined , the fields were enclosed , and c lti vation by paid labour replaced th at of common cultiva 8 8 HAM PSHI RE

tion by the tenants of the manor . Nothing , however , has had more to do with changing the character of H amp shire agriculture , more especially over the central

‘ chalk plateau , than the introduction , between one hundred and two hundred years ago , of the turnip , and

t e - later , of h mangold . This rendered root feeding possible during the winter instead of grazing , so that‘ sheep are now fed over the arable land instead of merely D . hi over the owns T s , together with the high prices obtainable for corn one hundred years ago , caused the n pastures everywhere to be broken up , and cor and root crops to be grown . The low price of corn since the repeal of the Corn Laws afterwards reversed the process , and much of the corn land was laid down again for

n ow pasture , though again broken up . The most characteristic agricultural district is naturally the central chalk area . All of this , practically , except the very highest ridges—which are covered with short nutritious springy turfs composed largely of ’ F estuca ovin a — sheep s fescue ( ) is overlain with soil ,

n often of considerable depth , and good crops of all ki ds t are obtained . Much of it , par icularly over the north ,

' “ is excellent wheat land , and seeds (clover , sainfoin , lucerne , etc . ) are largely produced . Most of the farming

i e is mixed , . . part is arable , part pasture , so that sheep grazing , the rearing of horned stock , and the raising S r o n . of crops , are all ca ried on the same farm oil

- conditions vary , and while in general the four course 2 1 1 rotation ( corn crops , roots , seeds) is adopted , its s di exact nature i very versified . On such a farm

9 0 HAM PSHI RE

H has been practised in ampshire for centuries , and is r regularly practised still , but less vigo ously than dl i l formerly . The soil of the Woo ands w l not carry S sheep , but cattle are grazed . ome of it is good barley land, and good general crops are here and there grown . The shrinkage of arable land and the development of

ed grazing above referred to , have been specially mark dl over the Woo ands , where much of what was formerly wheat land has been laid down to permanent pasture . The fall in corn prices is not the only cause producing this result ; the development of urban and residential districts , by creating a large and practically constant

- demand for milk , has rendered dairy farming partien l rl a . y profitable Th us , though excellent cheese can be

- made , cheese making as an industry is little practised H in ampshire . The development of permanent pasture

- has also curtailed the extent of sheep farming . In

s o fact , while during the last thirty years or , horses

s h ave kept tationary , horned stock has increased 0 5 per cent , and cows in milk or in calf an equal amount ,

2 8 sh eep have fallen off per cent , and pigs , which

—fi v e twenty years ago were rapidly increasing , h ave again sunk practically to their former level . No special breed of cattle is predominant th roughout di f l the county , but with sheep it is ferent . Original y

- the favourite breed was a white faced horned variety , but

- special breeding , combined with winter root feeding , has developed a type peculiar to Hampshire— the short S H D wool outhdown , or ampshire own sheep , as it is

n d termed . It is a larg e breed with black face a leg s AGRICULTURE 9 1

and gives a heavy clip of good quality wool , but the breed tends to di minish in numbers in favour of lighter kinds — E Cheviots and mixed breeds . normous sheep fairs are

VVe ill F held annually over the county . yh air and Over F ton air are the best known , and buyers come from all H parts to purchase ampshire wool . Of pigs , the

Ha mpsh ire Down Sheep

favourite breed is the black Berkshire . The principal

P et ersfi eld S markets for stock are Basingstoke , , outh ampton , and Fareh am . The agriculture of the New F orest is different altogether from th at of the rest of the county . The land is poor i l hi . and t n , and often waterlogged It w l not bear sheep , but cattle of a small and hardy breed are grazed , large di numbers of pigs are fed , and a stinct type of pony ;

- so F . the called orest pony , is a special feature The pig s 9 2 HA M PSHI RE

too are of a distinct type , closely resembling the Large

Black . They roam over the land , and feed largely

- Th i ri h t on the beech mast and acorns in the woods . e g ” i e of pannage , . . the right to turn pigs out to feed in the woods , is an important right of the commoners in the F orest .

- all The New Forest pony is a semi wild animal , sm , S w light , and hardy , larger than the h etland , and ith an ample , th ough smaller , mane and tail . The mares E are turned out , and breed in the Forest . very year

- u di they are rounded p , and the foals are branded accor ng to the ownership of the dam they run with . The roundi ng - up of Forest ponies affords many an exciting scene , well figured in the familiar picture by Miss Lucy

Kemp Welch . About a quarter of a century ago the F New orest pony was deteriorating , owing to the practice

off then prevalent , of selling all the good foals and ” suckers , and leaving only inferior stock to breed

of F from . Now by the operations the New orest Pony

! i Association , formed for the purpose , th s has been checked , and by an infusion of new blood for breeding purposes , the breed has been greatly improved, so that yearling ponies readily fetch at least £2 a head more T than they did fifteen years ago . h e number of ponies in t h e New F orest is estimated at between three and “ S four thousand . uckers fetch £4 to £5 , yearling s

6 - - 1 0 1 2 £ to £7, and two year olds £ to £ , according to u e q ality . R gular sales are held at Brockenhurst and elsewhere . These prices (as those elsewhere in this

b c . ook) are , of ourse , those prevailing before the war

9 4 HA M PSHI RE

a F M ny of the orest holdings are quite small , and a good number of these were originally obtained by ” al squatters . The commoners proper have v uable and ancient rights of common , chief among them being

Ya d ks on S dd es Lee Farm r with Ric ta l , , n e ar Roms ey

- — (1 ) Mast bote or pannage the right to turn out

pigs to feed .

(2 ) Pasture .

- (3) Turbary or turf cutting rights .

- — (4) E stovers or fi re bote m the right to dead wood for

fuel .

Fern or bracken is largely cut and carted for litter ,

- and formerly , during what are called the fence months , cattle were not allowed to be pastured at large so that

s strays and intruder might be impounded . SPECIAL CULTIVATI ON S 9 5

C v 1 3. S p e cia l ulti a ti on s Of several special cultivations carried on in Hamp

- shire the chief is strawberry growing , which is now an industry of importance . The reasons for its origin and success are the natural ones of soil , situation , S and climate . trawberries like a clayey , loamy soil , retentive without being cold , and such a soil they find to perfection on the Lower Tertiary fringe in the south . H ere , on the sunniest belt of the county , they ripen early and thus hold the early market , maturing in regular succession according to locality . Among the first are those from Swanwick and the lower Hamble River area

Botley strawberries are generally a week later . The Kent strawberries are usually some days behind those of Botley , and with fruit and vegetables the early market is a ll important as regards prices .

The strawberry plants are grown in large fields , in rows wide enough apart for plough and harrow cultiva

l - tion between them , sma l market garden produce , such as autumn - sown and spring - transplanted onions being di planted between the rows in the first year . The lea ng

S Sir sorts are Royal overeign for the earlier , and Joseph D Paxton for the later crops . uring the season (June to July) , which lasts from three to six weeks according

i - to weather cond tions , strawberry picking is the chief

T e l occupation of whole districts . h culture is a high y

a s remunerative one , but the area h so much increased that the high prices of former days are now not so readily obtained . 9 6 HAMPSHI RE

dl With so perishable a fruit , marketing it rapi y and di in perfect con tion is a prime condition of success , and the strawberry train service is carefully organised .

Picking is done early in the day , as far as possible , and S the fruit placed in small baskets . pecial trains ,

fitted with narrow shelves to receive the fruit , are pro v id ed h , and are despatched several times a day bot to London and the north . Locally there is also a large market , and great quantities find their way to Ports S S . mouth , outh ampton , and the Isle of Wight traw berry preserving is developing also as a dependent industry . Strawberry culture is developing also in parts “ of

di t e the Woodland strict , where the soil is of h same kind , though the season is much later . In certain places a considerable acreage of fir trees has been grubbed up to make room for these plants . The relative importance of the strawberry culture in the three leading counties is shown by the following figures for 1 91 4

Kent Cambridgeshire Hampshire

H Apart from strawberries , fruit cultivation in amp

al H shire is relatively unimportant , though round edge

E n d considerable quantities of raspberries are grown .

A much older - established culture in Hampshire is

h O - that of the hop , and p picking is one of the picturesque

98 HAM PSH I RE

hops over the whole of E ngland has considerably de

in H creased recent years , in ampshire it has held its

e . own , and even slightly incr ased A familiar feature of the hop country is the oast

house , wh ere the hops are dried . The drying is an

important process , as the extent to which the bitter

principle called lupuline , which gives the hop its value

in bittering ale , is developed , depends largely on the skill employed in drying . Alton is the chief centre for

hops .

- Another special cultivation is watercress growing .

t e This is carried on extensively , particularly along h chalk streams . The temperature of the water issuing from the chalk springs is wonderfully uniform , viz . about ° 0 F F 5 . , and the flow of warm water in ebruary is very stimulating to the young shoots . At Alresford , Maple d urwell , and Old Basing in particular there are excellent and extensive watercress beds , but the culture is general along Hampshire streams . A quite modern industry— tobacco culture—has been successfully carried out at Church Crookham . Com men cing in 1 91 1 with an experimental acre on a single farm , cultivation has been extended till the area was in

1 1 0 9 4 about 3 acres , and several persons grew about an t e E acre each . Crookham being h centre for all nglish s grown tobacco , pecial plant has been erected for curing ,

e . tr ating the leaves in heated chambers , packing , etc , and crops grown in other parts of the kingdom , notably ! S in cotland , North Wales , Norfolk , and Worcestershire , are sent here for curing . The le aves when g athered SPEC I AL CULTIVATI O N S 9 9

an d are stripped sorted , then cured and dried . The curing is a delicate process and the final drying is done in specially constructed rooms heated by steam pipes ° 1 0 F 2 . H to ampshire tobacco sells well , and there

Ha v es n ob a cco o ok a r ti g T , Church Cr h m

‘is every prospect of tobacco culture developing into an important local industry ; H Agriculture in ampshire stands at a high level .

Agricultural education receives special attention , and S plendid work in this direction is being done by the

County Farm Institute at Westley , near Winchester , f s i r a which o fers p ecial facil ties fo gricultural education , 1 00 H A M PSHI RE

n 1 4 . I d u s tri e s a n d Ma n u fa ctu re s

H Owing to the absence of coal and metals , ampshire ,

i e speaking generally , is not an industrial county , . . there is no definite manufacture which employs any d large section of the population , and gives any marke a industrial char cter to it as a whole . The county owes such industrial features as it possesses to its g eog ra ph i cal position , and not to any advantages of soil or rock .

1 1 1 Thus in 9 , out of male residents , over ten years old , in active employment , were engaged in agriculture , in engineering , in com

ercial m and business pursuits , and no less than in the carrying and transport of goods— forming the railway , dock , and mercantile marine class . The import ance of trade - routes in determining the character and distribution of occupations and population in Hampshire is well illustrated by these figures . e S The chief industrial c ntres are Portsmouth , outh

E . ampton , astleigh , and Basingstoke At Portsmouth , e industrial life centr s round the Navy , and the town is practically an enormous ship - building and victualling D yard for that service . In the ockyard every kind of

- ship building and repairing is carried on , and industries

- such as flag making , the manufacture of blocks and ’ E sheaves , and smith s work of every description . very ’ kind of ship s stores is provided , and there are large establishments for the supply of cordage , sails , and naval s clothing . At Gosport , on the opposite side of Port

1 02 HAM PSHIRE

dl centre which has marke y a character of its own , E namely astleigh . Near the head of the Itchen estuary , S where the lines to outhampton and Portsmouth diverge , it is a natural centre for railway construction works , and it has become , as it were , the Crewe of the L . and W R 1 S . . . 0 . system In 9 9 , the removal hither from Nine

E lms of the engine works caused a further rapid develop ;

1 1 1 E ment . In 9 astleigh had a population of

1 00 i of whom some 5 were employed on ra lway work . Although no other urban centre has a special in d ust ria l character , thriving industries are actively developing at various points in the county , dependent H mainly on ampshire agriculture . Foremost of these is Basingstoke . The rise of Basingstoke is instructive .

n ow The parent community was Basing , Old Basing ,

two a small village some miles away , the headquarters of the De Port family in Norman days . Basingstoke

i e a ( . . the staked ferry maint ined over the Loddon by

B a sin a s the g ) , was then merely a convenient point for crossing the river . Lying at the flat head of the Test

V - n alley to the south west , and the valley of the Loddo

- to the north east , with open land on either side , Basing stoke became a natural centre for population , as a point of intersection of the trade routes from London to the

- S . south west , and from outhampton to the Midlands

In coaching days it developed as a coaching centre , in railway times it became an important railway j unction , and the same causes have marked it out as a natural i S centre for m d or north Hampshire industries . everal

firms manufacture agricultural implements , and more INDUSTR IES AND MANUF ACTURES 103 recently the great motor and other engine works of ’ Th orn e croft s y have been established here , employing 1 000 as many as hands . Ironworks also exist at

Andover , Winchester , Ringwood , and elsewhere . ‘ Some of the countryside occupations are occasional

’ a a W o ks E a s : th e B a ss - fi n ish efs S o R ilw y r , tleig h r h p

t and seasonal rather than permanen callings , such as

- H — hurdle making , thatching , etc . urdle making , one of the most ancient of rural industries , is general all over H the wooded parts of the county . urdles , before the

8s 5 war , fetched from . to 9 . a dozen , and they take an r hour to make . It is hard work , and the poor p ice f makes it di ficult to earn much at the work . Thatching

t e is declining , partly owing to h cost of straw , but more 1 04 HAM PSHIRE

en to the difficulty of getting m skilled in the art . Wheat straw is used for general thatching , for ricks , and for potato clumps . The best thatched roof , h owever , is made of the reed (A run d o P h ra gmites) which grows freely in the river swamps , but in many farms nowadays

ol h at c corrugated iron roofs are superseding the d t h . F or ornamental thatching purposes ling or heather is frequently employed . With the numerous rapid streams flowing through the county , we should expect milling to be widespread , and it is so . There are numerous mills on the streams

- ll some grind corn , oth ers are paper mi s . The grind ing industry inland , however , is a decadent one . It x tends to concentrate at the ports , owing to the influ of foreign corn , and to decline elsewhere . Large mills S F exist at outhampton and areham , but there are also i st ll many inland , as at Winchester , Bishopstoke , D Bossington , roxford , and elsewhere . — Paper mills were at on e time more numerous than they

- are now . The paper mills formerly at Alton have now ceased to exist , and those at Romsey have also declined . The most important fa ct ory of this nature is tha t of bank - note paper for the Bank of E ngland; still carried on at Laverstoke , as has already been mentioned .

Timber , both native and imported , is sawn in large quantities at various mills along the rivers . Large sales F of New orest timber are held every year , and much of it finds its way to the saw - mills at Totton and South D ampton . There are large mills also at urley . The smaller mills along the streams in many cases carry on

1 06 HAM PSHIRE cula rly on the low swampy shores from Hurst to Lymin g

re ton , existed from immemorial antiquity , and are ferred to in numerous old deeds and records . But the superior salt made in Cheshire , combined with cheap and easy transport , proved their ruin . The last of the

- di 1 86 Lymington salt works sappeared in 5 , and thus the commerce which eighty years before had paid E a year into the xchequer , lined the shore with a busy population , and covered the Channel with mer ” ch a ntm en , has now totally ceased . Another extinct industry which was of considerable importance up to the middle of the eighteenth century

- is that of iron smelting . Artificial dams were erected to work the great hammers needed to beat out the slag , forming what are still called hammer ponds . One of

Sowle 1 00 these is y Pond , acres in area , 3 miles east of Lymington , formed to work the great hammer of

S owle Ha mmer on d or y , and another the p at Wakeners

Waggoners Wells , near Bramshott . Ironstone was

H en istb ur H regularly quarried at g y ead , and the smelting done at Sowley with charcoal from the Forest H and limestone from the Isle of Wight as a flux . ence the importance of the charcoal - burning industry of earlier days . The use of pit coal in the iron centres of the North ultimately did away with Hampshire iron

t e smelting , but it lasted till the latter end of h eighteenth c L in entury . At that period the district all round ym g ’ H a . ton was busy spot At Buckler s ard , on Beaulieu ’ river , several vessels of Nelson s Trafalgar fleet were built by the famous shipwright , Adams . F I SHI NG 1 07

F h n 1 5 . is i g The fishing grounds of the British Isles are the most productive in the world , far exceeding in total product the other two considerable grounds , namely , the waters round Japan , and in the neighbourhood of Newfound S fi — . ea sh er land Moreover , the North y for this is E the most important of western urope , owing to the warm shallow sea affording abundance of food— is the best organised and most efficiently worked Beyond — one marine league from the shore the three - mile — limit the sea is open to all nations but , in the North

Se a E , the nglish from the east coast ports preponderate over every other nation , both in numbers of men em ployed , and in the average amount caught , for hundreds of steam trawlers (of which other nations have very few) e stay out w eks at a time , passing the fish on to smaller vessels for landing as it is caught . The chief fish is the herring , of which so many have been caught that the fish remaining in the sea have become seriously diminished in quantity . International arrangements have been made for close seasons and close areas , so

cod that this fish may not become extinct . Mackerel , , plaice , and soles are also numerous . The south coast E of ngland is much less productive , and has only a very few steam trawlers , while the west coast is poorer still . H H On the ampshire coast , Portsmouth , amble and

Warsash , and Christchurch are the chief centres of the 1 08 HAM P SH IRE

fishing industry . Portsmouth produces soles and plaice by trawling , herrings and mackerel by drift nets , sprats by seine nets , escallops and oysters by dredging , lobsters

by pots and trawls , and periwinkles by hand picking ,

floun d ers Christchurch produces salmon , and also soles , , E herrings , prawns , crabs , and lobsters . msworth has oyster beds . The most important part of the fishing e H industry centres , howev r , at amble and Warsash , which are practically t h e headquarters of the crab E and lobster trade in ngland . The shellfish are not hi caught in the neighbourhood , but fis ng smacks collect from down the Channel as far as the west coast of E ngland and Ireland , the vessels being fitted with wells to enable the catch to reach their destination alive . There are commodious ponds at both Warsash and H amble in which they can be stored and kept alive , and the shellfish industry is not merely confined to home markets , but is an extensive Continental trade . Indeed , for a very long period the Hamble river has been a centre k for this industry . The mon s of Beaulieu and Netley

t e centuries ago had oyster beds in h river , and oysters used to be sent from here inland to the monasteries at Winchester and elsewhere . Prawn fishing by push

e . . nets is also carried on at many points of the coast , g ,

Calshot . Hampshire has been traditionally a favourite haunt of lovers of the rod . Precentor Wulfstan in the tenth century , speaking of the stream of water brought ’ A et elwold s into Winchester by Bishop h enterprise , ” D iscos e fl i xi says , ulcia p a um n a t ra t aquae . Izaak

1 1 0 HAM PSH I RE

F S as far as ullerton , and in the Itchen as far as hawford . S H almon enter a number of ampshire streams . They are netted from February to July in the famous run or narrow channel at the entrance to the Avon , near

M f r ud e o d . The Test below Romsey is an excellent stretch of salmon water , and salmon may often be seen f in the river from Romsey bridge . There are a ew in the Beaulieu river . In the Itchen , salmon can only

W oo ill ascend as far as dm . E els are caught plentifully Stockbridge eels are famed . The Avon is the best river for pike and coarse

fish generally , Ringwood and Fordingbridge being good centres . Pike also are plentiful in the Loddon and other waters of the north of the county .

h n a n d T ra d e 1 6. S ip p i g Hampshire has two great centres of sea trade and — business Portsmouth , the Naval arsenal and dockyard ,

S . and outhampton , the great commercial port Before these had attained such predominant importance , the shipping industry was active at many points along the S coast . Now outhampton forms the converging point of nearly all the lines of trade and sea - borne traffic to the almost entire exclusion of other places . Bourne H mouth has no trade whatever by sea . avant and Fareham have a small trade with shallow- draught vessels , mainly in flour , timber , and coal . At Christ church and Lymington trade has dwindled to small dimensions . P ortchester , at the back of Portsmouth SH I P P I N G A ND TRADE 1 1 1

H arbour , once a busy point of military landing and embarkation , is now so no longer . Portsmouth Harbour has been a centre of maritime 2 000 H activity for nearly years . ere the Romans established t h e westernmost of the fortified stations from which they controlled what was called the Litus — S a xon icum or Saxon shore that part of the eastern V and southern coast which , even in Roman days , iking or other North S ea pirates were in the habit of raiding and plundering . Roman Portchester was strongly

1 0 defended with walls , and its Roman masonry , feet

F or — thick , still stands . the shallow draught vessels of Norman days the innermost parts of t h e harbour were ’ m most advantageous , but from King John s ti e onwards , as the draught of vessels steadily increased , docks with deeper water became necessary , and a dock town began to grow on Portsea Island and the mud flats at t h e harbour mouth . Thus Portsmouth waxed , and by ’ H VIII s enry . time waning Portchester was already

S ‘ becoming obsolete . ince that date , the development

It s of Portsmouth has been continuous . convenient position , the extent and depth of anchorage in the harbour— where it is said that the wh ole British Navy — i could lie its tidal facilit es , and above all its security , protected by the narrow harbour mouth and the flats and shallows of Spithead on which strong forts have

been erected , have combined to mark out Portsmouth III ’ H V . s as the great naval centre of E ngland . enry S reign first saw it rise to importance . In tuart times

' a of it receiv ed a g reat impulse . In the naval w rs 1 1 2 HAM PSHI RE

it Napoleonic and Georgian times , played a preponder ating part . Now its importance is still more definitely emphasised . A great amount of general maritime trade centres in Portsmouth (which for this purpose includes Gosport

t e on the opposite side of h harbour) , for it is a great place of import for all manufactured and raw materials needed for the vast quantity of naval stores wh ich the dockyard supplies . But , speaking generally , Portsmouth

Her is not an exporting centre . commercial docks , the outer and inner Camber , form a considerable bend behind Point Battery , but their small extent relatively to the dockyard shows the comparatively small im portance of the place as a port proper . As a commercial port Southampton occupies a conspicuous place . Its geographical position marks ut it o as a natural world port , lying as it does in the middle of the Channel coast , within easy reach of London , and with the great hinterland ” of the Midlands and

Wales to draw commerce from . But over and above di this , its protected waters , and the special tidal con tions S already mentioned which outhampton Water enj oys , give it natural advantages that no other E nglish port

F or S can claim . all this , outhampton as a port has had

its periods of prosperity and decline . In Norman days Southampton first became of im p ortance forming on e end of the Anglo - Norman

H t o of S bridge from ampshire the mouth the eine .

on n ot In Plantagenet periods it carried a great trade , o F V nly with rance , but also with Genoa and enice ,

1 1 4 HAMPSHIRE

oil exporting wool and importing wines , , silks , and

E al V astern wares gener ly . The Genoese and enetian carracks or galleys obtained permission in 1 378 t o make

S of outhampton their port destination , as it saved the — long Channel voyage up t o London j ust for the same reason that the big liners of the present day have made

of it their port call . I ’ f II s The prohibition o export of wool in Henry VI .

on reign stopped the Levant trade , and the port fell evil A . t of S days the time the Armada , outhampton was unable t o provide even two ships and a pinnace for national defence . The Atlantic trade and the Newfound land fisheries which had Sprung up as the result of colon isa tion S in Tudor and tuart times , greatly restored its

of prosperity , however , but the place remained minor

of importance till the beginning the nineteenth century , when an attempt was made t o improve the port so that F it might rival almouth and Plymouth . The proximity

Of London gave it a great advantage , but the first real

1 8 0 impetus came in 3 , when a railway scheme was first t moo ed . The line was completed in sections , and

1 8 ultimately in 40 the whole was in operation . 1 80 The dock schemes had been in hand since 3, but 1 8 6 in 3 large docks were actively commenced, and in 1 8 43 they were opened . The mud lands at the Itchen

t o mouth were be reclaimed , and the docks excavated on them . Continued progress marked the successive stages of reclamation and growth carried into execu tion then and since , and the port became a moderately

on e n ot good for small vessels , but the docks were a SHI PPING AND TRADE 1 1 5

l 1 8 2 a . . S W commerci success In 9 , however , the L and . b Railway Company ought the docks , enlarged them , and constructed new ones , at the same time improving the communications with the metropolis . The Whi te S tar Line then moved its headquarters from Liverpool t o S e in outhampton , and from this tim the port has

dl in 1 1 creased very rapi y size and importance . In 9 0 it stood fourth on the list of British ports for tonnage of ships , the figures being

London Liverpool Cardiff Southampton Plymouth

of 1 8 th e The value the exports , which in 45 , when l docks and rai ways were first opened, stood at had in 1 880 reached The population has

1 8 1 increased in the same way . In 3 it was

1 88 1 1 1 1 in , and in 9 , thus j ust doubling in th e last thirty years . Notable among the imports of the place are the large S quantities of meat from outh America and the Colonies , and other cold storage articles . The installation for cold storage is indeed the largest in E urope it aecom mod at es h undreds of tons of beef and mutton , millions

of eggs , and large quantities of poultry , fish , butter , and game . 1 1 6 HA M PSHIRE

Southampton as a port is one of the best equipped E D in the world . The mpress ock has 2 6 feet of water at low tide , and is the only dock in Great Britain where deep - water lading and discharging berths can be reached by the largest vessels at any time of night and

Th e White Sta r Lin er Olymp ic

day irrespective of the state of the tide . There are

35 miles of railway line around and about the docks , thus giving direct access to every railway in the country . S hips can be discharged or loaded throughout the night , as the whole is brilliantly lighted by electricity . The facilities not only for entry at all states of the tide , but for rapid loading and unloading , have been the deter

in t e S mining factor h rise of outhampton , and have

1 1 8 H A M PSH IRE lis in h g forts and stations along their lines of road . The recall of the legions left the county a prey to the Anglo

S GeWiss as axons , and Jutes and peopled and gradually

S off reclaimed it . hut as it was from the east by the E dense forest belt which covered the south of ngland , it received no call to Christianity from Augustine ’s A D A D 6 mission ( . . and it was not till . . 34 that

Birin us , the monk , who had been sent on a mission to H H Britain by Pope onorius , brought ampshire the

K n e ils Gospel message . y g , the then King of Wessex , ’ Birinus became a convert , and at instance , founded a monastery at Winch ester , and h ither , towards the

Ha e d d a close of the seventh century , Bishop transferred 68 t e . h Bishopric In 7Bishop Wilfrid of York , the

S Meonla n evangelist of ussex , converted the Jutes in d to Christianity . Kingdom warred with kingdom until E gbert , King of Wessex , made himself overlord , and

A l la d A D 8 e 2 . was crowned King of ng n at Winchester . . 9 H Thus ampshire , the centre of Wessex , became the l E crad e of nglish rule as well , with Winchester as the capital . F or a century or so Hampshi re hi story was one with E nglish history , and though as years developed the position of London gave the latter increasing advantage , it was not until some centuries later that it became

E E Aeth elwulf the undisputed capital of ngland . gbert , — and his four sons of wh om the last and greatest was — E E E Alfred dward the lder , Athelstan , dgar , these are H E all great alike in ampshire and in nglish history , and all made Winchester their capital . Most of them HISTO RY OF THE COUNTY 1 1 9

were buried in Winchester , and at Winchester Cathedral l their memories , if not their very bones , will stil be

K ne ils found preserved , together with those of y g and

Ken walh of x his son , the first two Christian kings Wesse .

It was at Winchester that Alfred reigned , and consoli dated his rule ; it was here that he attracted that rare s circle of scholars who e literary labours he directed , the outcome of which were the E n gli sh Ch ron icle and ’ His Alfred s own translations into the vernacular . and succeeding reigns , moreover , saw the establishment of monasteries at Winchester , the new Minster , founded ’ St Alswith a by Alfred ; Mary s Abbey by , his queen , E and Romsey by their daughter , dith ; and later E ’ E Wherwell by dgar s widow , lfrida . Then early in D the eleventh century the anes gained the upper hand, and Winchester became the centre of the great Anglo

D . anish empire , under Cnut The traditional scene of ’ Cn ut s rebuke to his courtiers is on the beach by the S Town Quay at outhampton , and it was above the high altar of Winchester that Cnut hung up his crown in

i He 1 0 token of hum lity . died in 35 , and was buried in Winchester 1 066 H With the advent of Norman rule in , ampshire still retained its importance . William was crowned both in London and at Winchester , and regularly held his court h ere at E aster . It was at Winchester that

D s . Curfew was promulgated , and ome day Book compiled

l F H . Rufus was ki led in the New orest , and enry I

1 1 00. , succeeded in Robert , his elder brother the

, Crusader , attacked him , but at Alton the brothers met 1 20 HAM PSH I RE

H and enry I . bought him off and was left to reign in peace . D uring all this period , Portchester had been very H notable as a port , chiefly for military purposes . enry I . erected a castle here and founded an abbey , which was

S He moved fifteen years later to wanwick . also built

Th e G a Ha n s e a s re t ll , Wi che t r C tle

D S ’ St S . a Priory at enys , outhampton tephen s weak H reign and the civil war saw ampshire devastated . Castles were erected in various parts of the county ; ’ S H of tephen s brother , enry of Blois , Bishop Winchester ,

l M r W o v ese e d on . building those at y , Winchester , and

Others , some of them earlier , were erected at Winchester ,

S . Odiham , outhampton , and Christchurch The two castles at Winchester were held by opposing factions ,

1 22 HA M PSH I RE is now a ll but extinct that of Weyhill still remains as a great sheep fair , th ough with nothing like the import ance of medieval days . Hampshire reached a high degree of prosperity in ’ E T e H dward I . s reign . h ampshire wool clip was of ” great importance , and Winchester was the staple town where all wool sales for the county had to be

. S h held out ampton was the port of export , and both l . prospered high y It was the wool sale , indeed , which t h e caused great development of the fair at Winchester . ’ III s S E dward . reign saw outhampton develop also as 1 6 E a military port , and in 34 dward and the Black

Prince sailed hence for France on the Crecy expedition . E ’ dward s foreign policy , however , caused the ruin of — Hampshire h e removed the wool staple from Winchester F to Calais , to encourage the trade with landers . Win S chester and outhampton rapidly declined , and the D F Black eath completed their ruin . rom that day the

H a n d inland towns of ampshire sank and dwindled , thenceforward the develo pment of the county has been almost purely maritime . The wars with F rance made the coast vulnerable to S attacks , in the course of which outhampton , Ports f E III ’ . . s mouth , and other places su fered In dward reign Southampton ’s sea defences were consequently much strengthened , and naval and military activity continued H V to develop . It was from here that enry . sailed on his ’ H VIII s famous Agincourt expedition . enry . foreign S policy gave the seaboard increased importance . outh

is ampton built great ships for h navy , and Portsmouth HI ST ORY OF THE C OUN TY

H was by this time a strongly fortified naval base . enry

— at also erected defences all along the shore Cowes , S H — outhsea Castle , Netley Castle , Calshot , and urst the three last built from the spoils of th e Cistercian abbeys at Netley , and from Beaulieu , dissolved a few years

Alton Church

S before . outhampton had by this time decayed , and

Hampshire took but little part in the Armada episode . ’ James I . s reign witnessed the grant of a charter to d Romsey , and the disgraceful con emnation at Winchester Ma lower of Sir Walter Raleigh . In this reign also the yf sailed to New E ngland from South ampton . By this time Portsmouth had become the war port , and from 1 24 HAM PSH I RE hence the Duke of Buckingham ’s forces sailed to attack

La Rochelle . H Then came the Civil War . In this ampshire played a vigorous part . Portsmouth was seized by the Royal

ist s b . , but was attacked and captured y the Roundheads

This had important consequences , as the Roundheads were enabled to hold the coast fortresses , and the loss

— - of the sea ports so important even then was sea power

- r had great weight in determining the ultimate esult . The Roundheads then attacked and plundered Win t chester , but the Royalists recovered , and drove heir opponents from that city and the centre of the county , though they were unable to dislodge them from the coast . 1 6 Towards the end of 43 the Marquis of Winchester , who had fortified Basing House and held it for the

King , was strongly besieged , and a fierce fight in Alton ended in a defeat of the Royalists , Colonel Boles being driven to take refuge in Alton church , where he and his little band perished; fighting bravely to the last .

The bullet - marks may still be seen on the door and 16 pillars of the church . In 44 a more serious disaster b efel Sir the Royalists , when William Waller defeated their army marching to relieve the Roundhead pressure . H This heavy blow decided the Royalist cause in ampshire , and Cromwell marched south after Naseby , besieging and taking Winchester and Basing , the latter of wh ich had kept up a heroic resistance for nearly three years .

t W olv ese Winchester Cas le , y Castle , and the fortress ”

i e . at Basing were slighted , . . dismantled The later

1 26 HAM PSHIRE

H f ampshire life , and at Winchester Judge Je freys Opened the Bloody Assize by condemning Dame Alice Lisle t o

- be burnt at the stake within twenty four hours , a cruel

for l sentence , which the Judge on y after earnest entreaty consented t o substitute execution . The aged lady , who bore herself with extreme dignity , was executed at

S e E . Winchester . h is buried at llingham Later Hampshire history— apart from Portsmouth and its dominating influence in naval matters in the — Napoleonic Wars is mainly the story of the develop

of ment the traffic routes , first by coach and then by

i . t o ra l . The coaching days brought prosperity the

— P et ersfi eld inland towns Alton , Basing , , Alresford , di Ringwood , O ham , and Andover . Then came the ill railways at first resisted , then encouraged . The v age

- all out posting houses and inns declined . Towns left of the railway scheme , as Odiham , and the country f districts generally speaking , su fered as the favoured towns grew . In recent days the cycle , the motor , and the desire for country residence have done a good de al t o al lla redress the b ance , and town and vi g e hostelries are once more prosperous . Later developments inland have been practically all military . After the Crimean War , the waste and Open land near Aldershot was made the centre of a great permanent military encampment . Aldershot is n ow an important urban centre , and Farnborough , its

al near neighbour , is so developing fast . Then came

of W ol er F the establishment Bordon Camp in m orest , r and Tidworth Camp near Shipton Bellinger . Furthe AN TIQUITIE S 1 27

t o our changes , due the great war , are beyond scope . Meanwhile the great increase of traffic facilities has S of made outhampton a world port prime importance ,

t o which promises , as far as can be foreseen , increase ll S sti further . outhampton and Portsmouth together seem destined t o be more and more the seats of a large industrial maritime population , and the day may come

of S n ot nl when the mud flats outhampton Water , o y

al al at its head , but so ong both its shores , will be lined with wharves and sheds .

A n e s 1 8 . tiq u iti

Hampshi re has preserved a varied record of practic ally every era of human occupation from early Palaeolithic

of times t o the present . Many these remain above th e i di so l , often practically un sturbed , among them being ” of burial mounds , earthworks every kind , rings ,

ul - dykes and trenches , ancient c tivation ridges , and early trackways . Many have escaped destruction by the plough , others the worm and the plough have even ‘ for . S preserved us tone and bronze weapons , coins , f n of R ou dations buildings , oman pavements and relics of all kinds , pottery and metal work , a Jutish buri al — g round these are but some among many treasures which have been covered up by earth and thus protected from destruction .

Palaeolithic man has left behind him , buried in the river gravels , the rude stone implements he fashioned 1 28 HA M P SHI RE

n o of e in early days , but traces his work abov ground

. on exist Neolithic man , the other hand , has left his mark permanently over a wi de area ; the long barrows and most of the great circular earthworks capping the hills H are his work . In ampshire they form a wonderful

on two h series , in the main aligned the great ridges w ich

- t o - cross the county from north west south east . Generi . al ly speaking , they have a common family resemblance a ridge thrown up on the slope looks down into a deep

or l - to ditch fosse , the whole running around the hi l p

Nor and enclosing a large area . is the arrangement

“ of these rings fortuitous ; they occur at intervals , usually having the next within sight , and are j oined by tracks which keep as far as possible t o the tops of

- i of the ridges . From long cont nued ages use and weathering , these Often bear the character Of trenches rather than trackways . What was the purpose Of these rings !E xamination Of the evidence points t o prolonged rather than t o

t o temporary occupation . The trackways from camp camp are t oo permanent and t oo deeply worn t o have

for been occasional use only , and the most probable explanation is that they were the earliest settlements of Neolithic man , though succeeding races in many

n o . cases doubt used and developed them Frequently , indeed almost invariably , near the rings the hill slopes above the present cultivation - levels exhibit shallow

out ridges , showing where the camp dweller carried his primitive agriculture in the limited Open area or natural clearing around the settlement . Below this level came

1 30 HAM PSHI RE the thick continuous hedgerows of natural origin to which we have already referred , which originally formed the upper edge Of the pri mitive forest and n ow mark the cultivation limit .

“ ” These camps vary from the simple form of St ’ H Catherine s ill , Winchester , with its single fosse and

al t o of s v lum , the highly complex multiple series trenche

- D n r and defensive entrance works of a eb uy . Among the most characteristic are Woolbury (or W orlb ury) S overlooking tockbridge , Tidbury Ring at Bullington , H H Beacon ill in Burghclere parish , Bury ill near H Andover , and Old Winchester ill near Meonstoke .

al c W alb ur The largest loc amp is y , j ust overlooking

for H Combe , which geographical purposes is really amp 1 8 it shire , although since 94 has been administratively included in Berkshire . x Long barrows e ist , among other places , at Old

t H Da n eb ur D Winches er ill , y , Chilbolton own , the ’ F Giants Graves at Charlton near ordingbridge ,

Whitsbury , etc .

wh o The Bronze Age men , followed the Neolithic , doubtless made use of these camps - and enlarged and extended their protective lines , but their chief remains are the Round Barrows . These occur in groups at

Litch fi eld H (seven) , Clarendon ill , Tidworth (nine) , D ’ Popham Beacons , the evil s Jumps near Privett , and

of elsewhere . Groups round barrows have recently

Da n eb ur W in kleb ur been destroyed at y and at y , and doubtless they were much more abundant in earlier days than at present . AN TIQU ITIE S 1 31

The barrows , both long and round , are sepulchral ,

but their contents vary very much in character . The — — long barrows contain skeletons usually in groups Of

the earlier Neolithic peoples , the round barrows show

- single interments Of the broader skulled Bronze Age man .

The dead , especially in the long barrows , are often buried — in a sitting posture in the round barrows traces of

of cremation are frequently found , and the ashes the

of dead are placed in urns Of pottery . Bones animals , ‘ all pottery , and personal ornaments may occur in , and in the round barrows bronze weapons and food vessels . Of rarer occurrence and of particular interest are the

” “ ” s o- or of called promontory peninsular camps , H which several excellent examples occur in ampshire . In these , water formed a natural defence round the greater

of or of part the area , and the narrow strip neck land giving access t o it was protected by a dyke or series of earth works . Their age is uncertain . The most characteristic

B ra n sb ur inland example occurs near y , where an area of 60 of about acres , lying j ust above the level the waters , has been defended from attack on the eastern side by

800 w A n d ke a curving bank , yards long , kno n as the y . ’ P ott s H l y i l near Basing is an instance Of a similar kind , and Hen g istbury Hill has been converted into a sea - shore

so- D D promontory camp by the called ouble ykes , cut across the narrow isthmus .

The best example of the so- called British villages

th e of - H e is group pit dwellings at urstbourn . These

1 2 t o 1 were nine in number , circular , and from 3 feet 1 32 HAMPSHIRE

t o in diameter , with sloping passages leading down them , the floors being 4 feet below the surface , and roughly

flin ts paved with . Portions of millstones used for

of grinding corn , bones , pottery , and a large number ” ot n o p boiler stones were found , but metal articles , thus indicating that these dwellings were of very remote antiquity .

Of Roman times numerous traces remain . Roman l S walls stil stand at ilchester and Portchester , and the wa lls round a considerable part of Winchester n ot only

of clearly outline the limits the Roman city , but actually

on stand the Roman foundations . The great Roman roads may still be tracked for miles along many parts of the county , and the plough and spade have revealed foundation courses of Roman farm buildings with pottery and implements , tesselated pavements , etc . in many parts Of the county . A Roman villa was recently

S P et ersfi eld excavated at troud , near , and Roman altars , stones with Roman inscriptions , and other articles t oo numerous t o mention have also from time t o time been unearthed .

on e Of these antiquities , the far surpassing all others in extent and interest is the Romano - British city S H Of ilchester . ere once stood a British settlement which in later Romano - British days was protected by — a wall n ot foursquare as original Roman walls in variably were,but following the irregular course of the

- of two earlier British vallum . At the meeting point

r of f S Roman arte ies tra fic , ilchester had its day Of f al f importance . Later, the tra fic flowed ong di ferent

1 34 HAM PSH I RE

of used in trade and in the shops , even the toys Romano

t o British children , are all be seen here . S The other Roman towns , Winchester , outhampton ,

of of and Portchester , have yielded much interest , but S quite minor importance compared with ilchester .

Cla usen tum or S n ot , Roman outhampton , does appear t o on — it on have been a large scale stood a peninsula, t o of the east the Itchen , near Bitterne . The site is S practically Open land still . tones with inscriptions have

n ot been found here , but very many . Indeed, Roman H ampshire has left behind it singularly few inscriptions .

so - Of Roman camps , called , there are several in the

o f county , but very few them are really Roman . One

Roman camp exists at Ashley , half a mile north Of the

- S E b ur Vin d omis Winchester arum Road . g y ) is thought

t o also be Roman , and there are some others . — Of antiquities of post Roman date the Jutish burying place at Droxford in the Meon Valley is the most im

al ow . h portant We have ready seen a Jutish tribe , the — Meon wa ra on , settled the shore and made their way up

Titch fi eld V the river , until they peopled the Meon alley .

t o al In cutting the railway from Fareham Alton , a buri

of of place these folk was discovered . One skeleton

n o 8 enormous size , less than feet long , with a sword by

t o . its side match , was also found

of Of considerable interest , but uncertain date , is

so - D of the called anish ship , the keel which still lies H off buried in amble mud , Bursledon , and can be seen

of at very low tides . Portions it are preserved in the

Westgate Museum at Winchester . There is a vivid ARCHITECTURE— E CCLESIASTICAL 1 35

E n li sh Ch ron i cle of b e account in the g , a fierce fight ’ tween King Alfred s navy and six a es ca s or Danish

- S long ships , somewhere along outhampton Water . Only

e on e of the invaders g ot away . Thre were driven ashore on of th e two to the scene encounter , and had be beached

to elsewhere . The captured crews were led Winchester ,

o where King Alfred ordered them t be hanged .

A r h re — a E e s s 1 9 . c ite ctu ( ) ccl ia tica l

A preliminary word on the various s tyles of E nglish architecture is necessary before we consider the churches

i of our and other important bu ldings county .

- or n o Pre Norman , as it is usually , though with S E great certainty termed , axon building in ngland was the work of early craftsmen with an imperfect

of wh o knowledge stone construction , commonly used

n o rough rubble walls , buttresses , small semicircular or triangular arches , and square towers with what is

- - or termed long and short work at the quoins corners .

of It survives almost solely in portions small churches . The Norman Conquest started a widespread building of massive churches and castles in the Continent al style

al E ot c led Romanesque , which in ngland has g the name “ ” of . of Norman They had walls great thickness ,

u - semicirc lar vaults , round headed doors and windows , and massive square towers .

F 1 1 0 t o 1 2 00 rom 5 the building became lighter , the

of arches pointed , and there was perfected the science

a n vaulting , by which the weight is brought upon piers d 1 36 HAMPSHIRE

of buttresses . This method building , the Gothic , originated from th e endeavour t o cover the widest and

of loftiest areas with the greatest economy stone . The E E E ” first nglish Gothic , called arly nglish , from

1 1 80 t o 1 2 0 about 5 , is characterised by slender piers

of (commonly marble) , lofty pointed vaults , and long ,

- 1 2 0 narrow, lancet headed windows . After 5 the windows became broader , divided up , and ornamented by

of patterns tracery , while in the vault the ribs were

of E multiplied . The greatest elegance nglish Gothic

1 2 60 t o 1 2 0 E was reached from 9 , at which date nglish sculpture was at its highest , and art in painting , coloured glass making , and general craftsmanship at its zenith . About 1 300 the structure of stone buildings began t o be overlaid with ornament , the window tracery and

of vault ribs were intricate patterns , the pinnacles and spires loaded with crocket and ornament . This latter

“ ” D to style is known as ecorated , and came an end 1 0 D about 35 with the Black eath , which stopped all

for building a time . With the changed conditions of life the type Of build ing changed . With curious uniformity and quickness the style called Perpendicular —which is unknown — a b foa d developed after 1 360 in all parts Of E ngland

t o 1 2 0 and lasted with scarcely any change up 5 . As its name implies , it is characterised by the perpendicular arrangement Of the tracery and panels on walls and in windows , and it is also distinguished by the flattened arches and the square arrangement of the mouldings o h b t- t v er t em , y the elaborate vaul raceries (especially

1 38 HAM PSHI RE

or - on e stone frith stool , is Of the best . Warnford S church possesses a axon dial , and an inscription records

Brea more Church

S outh Tran s e t A rch with A n lo- S axon n s cri ti on ( p , g I p ) that the earlier church on the same site was built by

Bishop Wilfrid himself . At the opposite corner Of the county , at Breamore , near Fordingbridge , is a still S more interesting church . The axon tower and south — ARCHITECTURE ECC LE S I A STI C AL 1 39

transept are practically perfect , and the nave , chancel , and transepts S how the characteristic pilaster strips admirably . In the porch is an ancient crucifixion

Roms ey Abb ey ’ (A bbess s D oor a n d A n g lo- S a xon Rood )

S group , eminently axon in method and treatment . H A similar group , greatly mutilated , exists at ead

ul on e bourn Worthy , and a far more beautif , perhaps of on t of this period , the ou er wall the south transept 1 4 0 HAM PSHI RE

S of Romsey Abbey . axon work is also found at Boar S . hunt , Tichborne , Warblington , and elsewhere imilar

- e in character , but Of post Conquest date , is Chilcomb church near Winchester . Th e great impulse t o Norman came when Bishop

W alkel n of y , the first Norman Bishop Winchester ,

S of A eth elwold pulled down the existing axon cathedral , and began the present building . Cruciform , with a

e of squar tower , with nave , triforium , and clerestory somewhat heavy but truly dignified Norman character ,

t o it must have been a revelation its first beholders .

Bishop Godfrey de Lacy , in the twelfth century , ex

e of tended it astward , and William Wykeham trans

of t o th e formed most it , giving the interior lighter and more graceful beauty of Perpendicular arch and tracery . The original Norman character can be seen in the trans

of septs , and good examples practically every later style can be well studied in the building . Christchurch

of Priory came next in point time , with its beautiful u Norman turret , diaper mo lding , and interlaced arches .

th e S At Romsey , axon abbey was rebuilt somewhat St later as a Norman Transitional church , and at Cross ,

t o which is very similar Romsey , a little later still .

Both have beautiful work in choir and transept , and the interlacing arch - work seen at Christchurch is re p ea te d here more extensively . The impulse first given by Bishop W alkely n is

H a . seen in ampshire churches gener lly Brockenhurst , D E Fawley , roxford , Tichborne , Compton , ast Meon ,

W in ch fi eld H S d m on Portchester , , urstbourne Priors , y

1 42 HAM PSHIRE

No n W o k in o a n d No a s rma r Ch ir rth Tr n ept , Roms ey Abbey

Warnford , Crondall , Kingsclere , and Goodworth Clat ford , are examples . The change from Norman t o Transition and Transition ARCHITE CTURE— EC CLE SIASTI CAL 1 4 3 t o E arly E nglish came naturally as the masons acquired

r more and more maste y over their materials . The mechanics of building construction and design were in

n ot u fact f lly understood in Norman times . As time went on the builder learnt more and more h ow t o balance his material and dispose his masses— hence the light shafting and graceful spring of the E arly E S nglish arches and arcading . Barton tacey , in par

i ula r of t c . , shows this light spring the arches admirably There was much rebuilding of churches in Hampshire E E in the early thirteenth century , and arly nglish work exists in abundance . The best examples of the Perpendicular style exist in Winchester Cathedral . The nave , transformed by

Wll of of i iam Wykeham , is perfect conception , and in the beauty and perfection of the reredos and of Wyke ’ ham s chantry Perpendicular work reaches its zenith .

Christchurch Priory church , in nave and chantries , exhibits the same type Of beauty . Basing and Basing stoke are among the few good parish churches in this

two a t style . The chapels Winchester College and the beautiful cloister work reflect the same spirit and character .

of r E With the advent the Tudor pe iod, nglish

of church architecture declined . The side screens

S h ow Winchester Cathedral choir how it passed away , and h ow the foreign artist with Renaissance ideas brought

To from abroad replaced the native craftsman . turn from the strength and vivacity Of th e carving of the miserere seats of Christchurch t o the facile mediocrity 1 4 4 HAltIP SHIRE

’ of Gardiner s chantry at Winchester reveals h ow com l p etely the joy of the craf ts man in h is han dicraf t had

r as by the sixteenth centu y p sed away .

ri of th e Ham Of the inte ors pshire churches , the fonts

Th e on n c s er ath edral 1 2th c F t, Wi he t C ( en tury)

are for r rman or E ar E i an d as the most pa t No ly ngl sh ,

am al F a rule reflect much the s e gener character . our are al i s i Of speci ntere t , the four black l mestone fonts,

i a ral St ar B E s o at W nchester C thed , M y ourne , a t Me n, ’ S am St . in and Michael s , outh pton The carv g

r el in an d ri al t em y qua t rude . The mate from whi ch

1 46 HAMPSHIRE

St S ’ H withun s Priory at Winchester , yde Abbey , St ’ and Christchurch . The nunneries , Mary s Abbey ,

Romsey , and Wherwell , followed the Benedictine rule .

t o S Portchester Priory , afterwards moved wanwick ,

of S was a Priory Augustinian Canons , as were also elborne

n ot Priory , and Mottisfont . The Cluniacs were directly

of f represented , but Cistercian houses , an o fshoot from

H two Cluny , ampshire possessed noble monasteries , 1 2 0 Beaulieu , founded by King John in 4, and Netley

H 1 2 . by enry III . in 39 The neighbouring monasteries of ua rr of F Q , Isle Wight , and Waverley near arnham ,

Titch fi eld were also Cistercian . Abbey , founded in

1 2 2 2 . , was Premonstratensian Beaulieu and Netley are to- day noble ruins , but that is all ; the merest

of H vestige yde Abbey remains the others , apart from

Winchester Cathedral , Romsey Abbey Church , and

Christchurch Priory Church , have all passed away .

Beaulieu parish church of t o - day is the old Priory

of refectory , and lies north and south instead east and west .

r h e re — b M a r 20. A c it ctu ( ) ilit y

Military defensive architecture may be said t o H S be well represented in ampshire . trongholds had

W e existed here , as have seen , in Roman times . Alfred b the Great defended the county with bur s , but,

S W olv ese apart from Portchester , ilchester, and y walls n ow at Winchester , nothing stands above ground of earlier date than the N orman . ARCHITECTURE— M I L ITARY 1 47

In Norman days , strong royal castles were erected S at Winchester , outhampton , Portchester , and Odiham , and there was also a Norman castle at Christchurch

Ba r a te So am on f om th e No g , uth pt , r rth

all Tw n a (then c ed y m) . The Norman castles both at Winchester and Southampton were built on elevated of S ground in a corner the town . At outhampton there e n on or were strong d fe ces the north landward side , f r o a ts e. . Ba at e s l r in . How fa which p r , g the g , ti l ema r 1 4 8 H AM PSH I RE the defences round the other side were complete is

for uncertain , but they were certainly inadequate , in 1 337an assault was made by sea on the town by the S F . rench , and outhampton was sacked The seaward defences were then greatly strengthened , and much

t o remains in excellent preservation the present day . A tidal moat ran north and south by what is n ow Canal

of B a r a t e Walk , and east and west in front the g , the

n ow beautiful arcaded portion along the west , called

the Arcades , was erected , and , thus completed , the walls

of Southampton contained twenty - nine towers and ’ of seven principal gates , which four still stand . God s

H so t o ouse tower proj ected eastward , as enable defenders t o en fi la d e an enemy attacking from that

t o side . Water Gate led direct the Town Quay , and

t o of Westgate the western shore . The scheme defence of a medieval city can be well studied in S outhampton . Winchester Castle and defences equally have their

e The V isibl records still . Normans found Winchester l T a a . h e lready w led , but they improved its defences

of S a original stronghold axon Winchester , as we h ve

W olv ese seen , had been y , which occupied the south

of — eastern corner the city , its magnificent wall much — of it still standing defending that quarter . Later

S W olv ese axon kings relinquished y , and it became the

How of . residence the bishop . William I strengthened

the city , erecting his castle at the upper angle to the

- H of con south west , and how enry Blois , the bishop , verted his residenc e into a stronghold an d built another

1 5 0 HAM PSHI RE h ow the Plantagenets needed protective works against home and foreign foe alike and h ow under the Tudors sea defences were greatly strengthened , while the castles

n i land were converted into peaceful country residences ,

for of which , save the disturbing eddies the Civil War , they have since remained .

A r — c 2 1 . rch ite ctu e ( ) D ome s tic

Hampshire is a county of noble mansions and splendid

of of country seats , manor houses great beauty and

t oo h umbler e . , , , inter st Its cottages in a p way can

H - - i claim distinction . alf timbered , daub bu lt , and with thatch roofs they form a pleasant and old - world feature of the rural landscape . As security from foreign invader and local robber increased , the baronial and manorial residences lost their defensive character , and houses more commodious

Not H and open replaced them . many ampshire resi

‘ d en ces dl recall outwar y their earlier history . Lord ’ Mon t a us l g house at Beau ieu , however , built where ’ the Abbot s residence once stood , with the Abbey ruins as a background and the defensive moat seaward , built in Napoleonic days as a guard ag ainst attack by

H or own . sea , tells its story ere and there a Tudor Jacobean mansion remains but little altered from its

al V n e origin form , as The y near Basingstoke , and the

fre S plendid Jacobean building at Bramshill . More quently it is Georgian influence that is reflected , as at

S or dl . n tratton , Broa ands near Romsey The ma or ARCHI TE CTURE— DOME STIC 1 5 1

— houses are a numerous series t oo numerous indeed t o S of be mentioned in detail here . ome them still retain

o traces f the moats by which , in the insecure medieval

times , they were protected . There is an extremely H interesting Manor ouse at Wymering , and Bramley

- Old Man or House has an excellent half timbered front . Hampshire town architecture dates from very early

on e of times . At Christchurch the earliest existing h ow chimneys , dating from Norman times , reminds us

wh o the Normans , extinguished domestic fires by the

t S h ow t o curfew , aught the axon deal with the smoke

so as well . In few places can town geography be well studied as in Southampton— the ancient houses and narrow ways dating from at least Norman times clustered behind the Water Gate , the great warehouses , th e H splendid Tudor mansion Tudor ouse , the change

t o out of th e from medieval Georgian , the flowing town for residential purposes t o the open country on

of for the north , the reclaiming the shores mercantile — purposes on the seaward side all these are of note and interest .

old In this respect Winchester is less illustrative , and

of Portsmouth , though full interest , is mainly Georgian

of in type . The method grouping at Basingstoke ,

P et ersfi eld on e Alton , Alresford , and , where long street largely predominates and the houses are aligned along th e old of coaching road , tells the story their develop f ment in a di ferent but characteristic way .

The Hampshire old - world rural cottage is a diminish

t o- ing type day , indeed perhaps before long a vanishing 1 5 2 HAMPSHIRE on e T e al l of . h typical rur cottage is built who ly daub or - m of half ti bered , the roof is thatch , often reaching

to nearly the ground , and the whole is set back from

— in the road with a well stocked garden front . It is

of — often a picture great beauty externally , that is ;

a d o a es n a n d s Th tche C tt g , e r Ly hur t

for within , the charming and picturesque cottage is

t oo e . only often cramped , dark , and poorly ventilat d

or d ob Good daub , as it usually is called, is a

of al n ot n ow s o mixture clay and ch k material , and is

S for readily procurable as formerly . traw thatching

ul t o out is more expensive , and skilf thatchers carry

so the work are fewer , that these cottages when past repair are more and more being replaced by hideous modern brick cottages , usually tiled , sometimes slated .

F - lint is largely used , particularly where the clay with

COMMUN ICATION S 1 5 5 replaced by structures of metal work in which corra

a gated iron plays leading part , and j ust as early man

t o so passed from flint in weapons bronze and iron , rural Hampshire t o - day is passing alike from mud and

t o for thatch and hand implements iron construction ,

for and machinery labour .

mm n n 22 . Co u ica tio s

Th e ea rlies t existing roads of Hampshire were of the y simplest type , and can in many cases still be followed V along the ridge of the chalk upland . ery possibly particularly where they descended into the valleys or — crossed streams some of them followed tracks made

al — for origin ly by wild animals , whether by air , by

or t o t o land , by water , animals love keep an accustomed

o of path . We have seen h w along the ridges the down land the camps of Neolithic man and his successors a re al e t o igned . It is quit easy follow the ancient

t o trackways , still clearly be discerned , that connect camp with camp ; as for instance from far beyond

W alb ur H l H on to y , by Beacon ill and Lad e ill , right W in kleb ury or the other tracks Which lead by Dane

t o t o Butser bury Woolbury , and from Old Winchester — Hill probably parts of a much larger trackway which S D led from tonehenge t o the Sussex owns .

n ot of But all ancient trackways are this character .

S for ome avoid the camps , as instance the famous

Ha rrowa y , which led originally from the west country

S H t o past tonehenge , past Weyhill and urstbourne 1 5 6 HA M PSHI RE

t o Farnham and beyond . Its name is thought mean

H i e of the oar ( . . ancient) way , and it is part an ancient road leading from Mounts Bay in Cornwall right on

t o D . over It crossed the Roman road , constructed

t o S of later from Winchester ilchester , near the village of Worting , and eastward this point is known as the

of Pack Lane . Another ancient track , the origin which

Lun wa is unknown , is the y , connecting Woolbury with F Swarraton . The New orest also is covered with ancient

of tracks in every direction . A proof the antiquity of these tracks is that they d o n ot touch the modern towns and villages— the conditions which dictated the positions of these n ot being in operation when these

out early pathways were first trodden .

l of Gradua ly , as what we may call the sense the

° t o for community grew , routes began be opened up tribal purposes . We have already spoken of the tin trade and the much - discussed tradition that tin was

H t o on S brought through ampshire Lepe the olent , and

n t o of across by a passage the fordable the Isle Wight ,

so or n ot and thence exported . Whether this was

n ot does greatly matter . The point is that such trade

t o routes and from the coast , and elsewhere across the country , were certainly in existence when the Romans came .

The Roman occupation brought fundamental changes .

The Roman looked at the country as a whole , and opened up through communications throughout the length and

of His breadth the land . roads were primarily designed t o on e secure military control , and linked up fortified

1 5 8 HAM PSHIRE

A Roman road of great importance led from London through Silchester direct t o Old Sarum and the west country . This was the Port Way . It crossed the

- Winchester Cirencester road practically at right angles ,

of - a little north present day Andover . Another principal road ran roughly parallel t o the coast from Southampton

t o past Warblington Chichester , and another can be

D H t o readily tracked from ibden Purlieu , near ythe ,

Lepe . Recently a road has been traced from Otter

so on t o bourne , crossing the Test at Nursling , and

Wimborne . The Roman roads were scientifically constructed on a definite plan . They varied in width and were metalled with stone setts where these were procurable , much as modern roads are metalled . They were raised above

of the level the surrounding land, and hence the common title High Street for the main thoroughfare of town or village . S axon and medieval trunk roads followed the line of the great Roman arteries , though many causes oper i ated to produce dev ations from them . From Roman

for n ot t oo times onward many centuries , it is much t o or t o say that roads were more less left themselves . There was n o general policy followed in maintaining dl them in repair . When a road became ba y worn ,

f on tra fic followed new and parallel tracks either side , and so the modern roads are frequently found t o take

t o old on e a line parallel the Roman . Moreover , the steep gradients necessitated by the straight course of f of s the Roman roads , and local, di ficulties wamp C O M M UN I C ATI O N S 1 5 9 or t o river , further operated make wide deviations necessary . An interesting example of this can be seen in following

t o F or the Roman road from Winchester Cirencester . seven miles out of Winchester the present highway takes the old Roman line up and down over the high S ridges in a straight line . Near Barton tacey , however ,

t o it deviates sharply the west through Wherwell ,

so where it crosses the river Test by a bridge , and goes on to al Andover . The origin road exists , however ,

of - d efi n ed beyond this point deviation as a well track , forming for some short distance part of the road to S Barton tacey , till it loses itself later in the marshes

n s r of Bra b uy Common . Crossing the Micheldever and

two Test rivers in fords , it becomes recognisable again

so on t o - as a track over the land and the north west . Curiously enough the site of the Roman road is still

for clearly defined locally , the spot where the L . S W and . . Railway line passes over it is indicated by a bridge , which is a conspicuous landmark as we look

Bra n sb ur northwards across y Common . The explana tion of the divergence lies in th e marshes of this latter

for area , all the roads near it are regularly flooded , even nowadays , in spring and winter . The new road followed the more natural route , and linked up Win chester directly with Andover and th e fertile Anton valley . But roads were n ot merely made t o connect town with town . Many of them had their origin as lines for th e of or t f conveyance particular g oods ra fic . Such 1 60 HAM PSHIRE is the origin of several of the tracks t o which the word ” Ha rro a L n way still clings . Besides the w y and u way

Saltwa s Oxwa s already discussed , we have y , y , Mault

of ways , etc . , and , most picturesque perhaps all , the ’ S altwa s Pilgrims Way . The y led direct inland from the ” S or on S . alterns altings the coast In medieval ,

S of as in early and late axon times , before the days ( for of winter feeding stock , large numbers animals had

o for H th e t be killed and salted down winter . ence

S altwa s salt industry was extremely active , and the y

Ma ultwa came into existence . The word y is believed “ ” t o be derived from a word meaning sheep . The movements of cattle are indeed responsible for many existing tracks , and the steep side lanes in particular often found dropping direct into the valleys mark old

t o tracks made by cattle coming down water .

of In medieval times modes conveyance were varied .

f t o Wheel tra fic was only a limited extent in vogue ,

of owing t o the bad surface the roads . Travellers rode on on horseback , ladies were conveyed in litters and

on or ul pillions , and goods were taken horseback m e

of u or h back . Long trains sumpter m les orses followed — on e another often under armed escort because of the — of danger robbers and , when the weather was favour

on able , heavy goods were placed rude sledges and

al f dragged ong . The wear caused by tra fic , intensified u by rain , frost , and wind , deepened the ruts , partic larly

so in chalk and sand districts , that in certain places we find the chalk downs scarred deep into remarkable

T f o narrow g ulleys . h e best instances o this are t be

1 62 H AM PSH I RE d isturn iked H p , tolls were abolished , ighway Boards

of on were formed , and the cost upkeep placed the

1 888 of various parishes . Ultimately , in , the control the chief roads was placed in the hands of the County

S . Council . uch roads are technically termed main roads

Dee n Buts er H o s o oa d p Cutti g , ill , P rt m uth R

F or or other roads the municipal boroughs , rural , urban i district counc ls are responsible . The modern road as we know it thus dates almost

entirely from the eighteenth century , but the surface ‘ l of MA d am was generally speaking poor ti l the time ,

of at the beginning the nineteenth century , whose great principle was that roads should n ot only b e of proper

n of - al of gradie t , but be made road met uniform size (instead of stones indiscriminately larg e and small) COMMUN I C ATI O N S 1 63

or well rolled in and properly contoured cambered . In quite recent days the introduction of fast motor

t o traffic has made it more necessary eliminate dust , and the best roads n ow are surfaced with materi al containing tar in some form . Military requirements have lately played an important

of part in road development . The establishment great permanent military centres or camps at Bordon and on Salisbury Plain some twenty years a g o made good

th e t o new roads necessary , and great war has added their number .

of Before we leave the subj ect roads , we may pause t o note a point of interest in connection with the more H ancient highways . ere and there as we pass along them may be seen widish stretches of open land fringing ” al the road , known technic ly as waste . These were a

l f of n ot regu ar eature medieval roads , and only allowed the traveller an alternative if the ordinary track had

e becom impassable , but acted as a protection against

S e of highway robbers . By tatut Westminster in ’ H III s . t o enry reign , all trees and bush growth had be

t o removed a bowshot from the road , prevent robbers l from lurking and suddenly attacking travel ers . In

of later times , by Act Parliament , the manor lords have been allowed t o enclose the waste up t o a certain

e of H distance from the middl the road . ere and there , u however , the waste still remains nenclosed , and where this is so we may say almost certainly that the road is

on e an ancient . The first canal work of importance in Hampshire wa s 1 64 f HAMPSHIRE the attempted canalisation of the Itchen by Godfrey

of de Lucy , Bishop Winchester , in the twelfth century .

To f of h e keep a su ficient volume water , built a dam

Alre across the river at Old Alresford , forming he lake known as Alresford Pond . The proj ect failed , “ ” al however , as the swallow holes in the chalk lowed

t o the water leak away through the soil . The loca l

f t o e fect , however , was important , as it caused houses

on of Alre be built the eastern side the , and thus New

Alresford , the present town , developed .

It was during the eighteenth century , however , that practically all the important canals of our country were planned , and various canal schemes carried out

H hi t o in ampshire , the c ef obj ects being link up the

or t o waterways , connect towns with the coast . Thus the Loddon and Wey canal was cut from Basingstoke t o for l the Wey and Thames , and a scheme cana isation of the Test from Southampton t o Romsey and Andover was undertaken . This was never completed , but part of the channel from Southampton was later used for S W the L . and . . Railway . The Loddon and Wey canal is n ow derelict except for some local traffic from Alder F shot and rimley .

a on e Water carri g e , though slow , is cheap , and at time

for al it seemed that a great future existed can s . The advent of railways in the early half of the nineteenth s t o . ll century , however , cau ed canals decline It is sti a debated point whether with motor - engines canals

u n o H cannot be usef lly revived, but ampshire canal ,

x . e cept as above noted, is in use at the present time

1 66 HAM PSHI RE

m n ra on a n d D v s on s 23. A d i is t ti i i i

By the time E ngland had been consolidated into on e

E - of kingdom under gbert , the tun ships , which we spoke I in Chapter . , had developed into manors , each with “ ” own or its manor court tun moot , and the manors “ E grouped into hundreds . ach manor court met at

for of first the punishment offenders , and the regulation of al for nation defence , but later other purposes , such ” Trin od a of as the Necessitas , namely the settling

of military service , the repair fortresses , and the upkeep D of . bridges Later , when the anegeld was imposed , money payments as well as payments by service were

t o for ecclesi made , in addition which there were tithes

i on a st cal purposes . As time went the tendency was more and more toward payments in money and , by

of ra cti the time the Conquest , lands were assessed p

wh o cally by fees paid by the knights , held them Knight ’s fees they were called— and the Domesday survey was in reality a survey of the land for purposes of exact assessment .

al The next step came from ecclesiastic impulse . F rom the beginning of Christianity in Hampshire

A D for ( . . grants were made Church purposes , and

for churches erected . These were intended at first the benefit of th e manorial lord himself and his people and hence we often find the parish churches in the ’ — D S . quire s park as at Warnford , ean , and Avington

all Regular dues , c ed tithes , were instituted , and ultim ately districts were formed, comprising single manors ADMI N ISTRATI ON AND D IVI S I O N S 1 67 or of of hi groups manors , called parishes , the tithes w ch were definitely appropriated t o the support of a parish

r p iest .

a The parish , thus originally a purely ecclesiastic l

e for al unit , later becam the unit local life so and when by Tudor days the system of cultivation in common

of had broken down , the manorial basis local life began t o break down also , and the parish took its place , though in many parts of the country the manor is still

for largely the unit legal purposes . Parish church f o ficials , such as churchwardens and parish clerks ,

e cam into existence , and the churchyard became the spot where parish and other meetings , social gatherings , and even fairs were held . Later , the parish meetings

so were held in the church vestry , and the modern

- To V . estry meeting took its rise this day , though th e Church as such takes little part in local government ,

of lists voters , ratepayers , and assessments are still

of affixed t o the doors churches . The development of the parishes was , however , a slow process and some of them did n ot come into effective existence till long after the Norman Conquest . A further change took place in parish matters dating from about the thirteenth century . By this time the monasteries had gained possession of many manors and

on e of with them the corresponding tithes , and their num

out ber was appointed t o carry the parochial duties .

i e These men were called vicars ( . . deputies) and “ e i e th e monasteries themselves becam the rectors ( . . ’ H Vlll s o . receivers f tithe) . When in enry reign the 1 68 HAMPSHIRE

monasteries were dissolved , the tithe as well as the monastic estates in many cases came into priv ate

H of t o W rioth esle hands . In ampshire most them fell y ,

E of - arl Southampton . Thus in many parishes to day

Th e own Ha o s o T ll , P rt m uth

t o the rector is a layman and the tithe is paid him ,

V while the parish priest is called the icar , and receives ” only a small portion called the smaller tithe . A further illustration of this point is that the care of the chancel of a parish church is always vested in the

1 70 HA M PSH IRE

al all n ot con were in gener c ed liberties , and were

of fined t o boroughs only . Thus the portion Winchester

n ot outside the city , and therefore under the authority of or f the mayor baili f , was a liberty , known as The S oke . S t S ’ Great convents like Beaulieu and withun s , Win

e of chester , claim d and exercised extensive rights sanctuary . In the latter a small manor , known as ’ Godbiet e E Cn ut s , granted by Queen mma , widow , “ ” t o s o co the prior and convent , was a liberty m ’ plete that n ot even the king s warrant could be executed S within it . uch sanctuaries became a nuisance and a danger , as every felon could find shelter in them . The general government of the county was conducted — in early days by Justices of the Peace a title dating from the time of E dward III though the actual office goes — back to much earlier days and their work was narrowly scrutinised by a Committee of Privy Council known

r as the Star Chamber . These j ustices met at Quarte

S n ot essions , where only was j ustice administered , but

of matters county administration determined . But

of al the needs loc government outgrew this machinery , 1 888 and in a new era commenced , with the creation of for Two of elective councils local purposes . classes these were created , the larger districts became County ” of Boroughs , and the remainder the county was divided into Administrative Counties under County Councils . Thus in mainland Hampshire we n ow have for general

of S purposes the Administrative County outhampton , and S the three county boroughs , Portsmouth , outhampton , ADMINISTRATI ON AND D IVIS I O N S 1 71

F or and Bournemouth . certain purposes , the County Council exercises authority over the sma ller boroughs for other purposes they are quite independent . The County Government Acts of 1 888 were in 1 894 extended by the creation of Urban District Councils for minor

al D l for urban areas , Rur istrict Counci s less populous

for areas , and Parish Councils parishes . F or Poor Law purposes th e county IS divided into areas called Unions , and each Union is administered

of H by a Board Guardians . ence the familiar term ” for or Union , as the popular name the poorhouse ,

Union workhouse . F or Parliamentary purposes the county is divided into boroughs and county divisions . Bournemouth

S two has one member , outhampton , and Portsmouth

of three . The county divisions , apart from the Isle F Wight , are the Aldershot , B asingstoke , areham ,

F P et ersfi eld D New orest , , and Winchester ivisions .

of a ll The Isle Wight has a single member . In this

dl of me ey areas and authorities , however , the ancient meaning of the county as a unit for organisation of defence and the administration of j ustice has n ot passed

l of n E away . The ancient ru er the cou ty , the aldorman , l d stil exists as the Lor Lieutenant , and by a recent act the organisation of matters relative t o County

al F Territori orces is placed under him . The ancient

al f S i - scire- ere a or S f leg o ficer , the h re reeve , g f , heri f,

ffi for still retains his title and o ce , and is responsible

of out of the holding the Assizes , and the carrying sentences . 172 HAMPSHIRE

E In fact , local administration in nglish counties still — follows the ancient lines areas of administration and

o taxation g together areas govern themselves , and elect

own wh o their responsible rulers , exercise their rule in accordance with and under the supervision of the

of national government . A host county and local

f of s o ficials , Lords Lieutenants , Chairmen County Council ,

S f of D heri fs , Mayors , Chairmen Urban istrict Councils , of of D Parish Councils , Rural istrict Councils , Boards of of Guardians , and Justices the Peace , all carry out responsible and often onerous duties , sometimes

of for compulsorily , and all them are unpaid the work

d o they .

of Hon o r 24 . Roll u

of H The worthies ampshire , as might be expected , i form a long list . Great h storic names , such as kings

of S n ot and bishops axon and Norman times , we shall

“ t o H refer here . Of later state personages , enry III .

of and Arthur , Prince Wales , were born at Winchester , and William of Wykeham (1 32 4 the great builder ’ ’ f E III s o . II s and chancellor dward and Richard .

of reign , was , as his name indicates , a native Wick ’ ham near Bishop s Waltham . As Chancellor under

of of E . dward III , architect the Round Tower Windsor

of of Castle , founder New College , Oxford , and Winchester ,

of the first great public school the country , as well as th e great builder wh o gave Winchester Cathedral its

for l He present form , he calls particu ar mention . lived

1 74 H AM PSHIRE

’ E The Lisles lived at Moyles Court near llingham .

for of St Colonel Lisle was a time Master Cross , Win ’ of D chester . The tragedy ame Alicia Lisle s death has

o already been referred t . The great statesmen of more recent days include

D of St ra tfi eld s a e the uke Wellington , whose seat , y , was presented to him by the nation ; Lord Palmerston

1 8 ( 74 born at Broadlands , near Romsey and E V arl Northbrook , sometime iceroy of India , who carried out important work locally as Chairman of the H ants County Council .

of S Among great naturalists , Gilbert White elborne — (1 72 0 93) will always rank as the father of that school of careful and methodical observers wh o are the pioneers of of exact knowledge and therefore science . It has been truly said of him that he ascertained more of the habits of the wild creatures of this country than ” He on e or . any man before since was , moreover , the first t o recognise and describe the harvest mouse and

a oc a a His on the great bat (P ipistrell s n t l ) . letters the

N a tm a l Histor o S elborn e hi 1 8 y f , w ch first appeared in 79, S are a leading classic . At elborne , where he was born ,

all he lived practically his life , and lies buried in the

n of churchyard o the north side the chancel . Goodyear of wh o 1 6 8 H Buriton , died about 5 , is an early ampshire

al t o natur ist , whose name deserves be rescued from

i of of F lora oblivion . W lliam Curtis , Alton , author the

L oa din en si s of B ota n ica l , and founder the celebrated

Ma az in e of al g , the introducer many agricultur grasses ,

- of of , and sea kale as a vegetable , was a botanist RO LL OF HO N OUR 1 75

He 1 high merit . died in 799 , but is still a famous of th e name at Alton , where another member same name and family founded an Institute and Museum

Iz a ak Wa lton

8 in 1 39 . Another ardent naturalist was William of Gilpin rector of Boldre (1 72 4 the author , of s so t o , F orest S ketch e , the Gilbert White , speak the

h e New F orest , but was even better known perhaps

as a topographical artist and illustrator of books .

o h is t o th e His sketches , s ld at death , served endow 1 76 HAM PSH IRE

1 —1 8 parish school at Boldre . Izaak Walton ( 593 6 3) has every right t o appear in our list of Hampshire

He o worthies . lived in Winchester after the death f l H his second wife , repeated y fishing in the ampshire

Cha rles Kin g sley

so streams , which he warmly praises in his immortal

th e Com lea t A n ler book , p g , which was first published in 1 6 al 53. W ton died at Winchester, and is buried in the r cathed al . Charles Kingsley , the naturalist and writer ,

- r though not a native , was for thirty one years Recto

E our of versley , and closely associated with county .

1 78 HAMPSH IRE

n ow E 1 681 little read , but dward Young ( author of N i h t Th ou h ts wh o i g g , was born at Upham , st ll remains

- a well known name .

on D 1 6 1 S Born ecember th , 775 , at teventon Rectory , an d living nearly her whole life there and at Chawton

i t o t o 1 8 1 t ll she moved Winchester die in 7, Jane Austen

H Her is essentially ampshire . novels deal with simple E nglish domestic life , and aim neither at high romance n or sensation but for acuteness of perception and charm they command widespread admiration , and the lapse of a hundred years still leaves her on e of the great

E . wh o nglish novelists Charlotte Yonge , was born 1 8 2 at Otterbourne in 3, and lived there practically all

of for her life , a most prolific writer novels young ladies of - V the mid ictorian period , commanded as large , if hardly as critical a public , and was a strong supporter

— - of high church tenets . Yet another well known name among literary women of the county is Mary Russell

1 8 H r of M . e itford , born at Alresford in 79 scenes

Our Villa e country life and manners , collected in g , will always live as a faithful and charming presentment of this subj ect long after her tragedies have been forgotten .

of on th 1 8 1 2 In a suburb Portsmouth February 7 , ,

D for Charles ickens was born , but his father left London

d o when he was an infant , and the county can little

of more than claim the great novelist by right birth . Another writer of renown born at Portsmouth is George

' 1 82 8 He Meredith ( began life as a j ournalist , and it was some time before he obtained full recognition R OLL OF HONOUR 1 79

' of hi s - o powers as a novel writer . Lack f naturalness

- in style and over elaboration may restrict his readers , but cannot invali date his p osition as on e of the best

of novelists his century . Ten years after his birth a

third , and most deservedly popular novelist was born

Sir at Portsmouth . This was Walter Besant , whose

w of On ce a literary partnership ith James Rice , editor

W eek , was as eminently happy as their novels . Charles

Dib din (1 745 the writer of the well - known song

Tom n ot Bowling , might claim mention less as a

water - colour painter and dramatist than as a composer

of of e 1 00 songs , which he wrot over 3 in his lifetime . S H He was born at outhampton . ampshire artists are V R A n ot . . . of numerous icat Cole , , painter sunny

S 1 8 urrey landscapes , was born at Portsmouth in 33 and 1 8 died in 93. Hampshire is identified in a remarkable degree with

St ern h old 1 00— hymn writers . Thomas ( 5 49) author

H of Metrica l Version o th e P sa lms with opkins the f , was

H an d a ursley man , at that place he is buried . Thomas

n ot H Ken , though a ampshire man by birth , was

of educated at Winchester , was Prebendary the Cathedral ,

E v en in Morni n H mn s h is and wrote his g and g y , and

Ma n ua l o P ra er for of H f y the use Winchester boys . e

n of t o wo the esteem King Charles II . by refusing coun f ten a n ce ul . o his irreg ar life As Bishop Bath and Wells ,

f t h e S H he was later on e o even Bishops . e di ed

1 1 1 of H on his in 7 . Isaac Watts , uguenot descent ’ 1 6 S H mother s side , was born in 74 at outhampton . ere

“ he wrote When I survey the wondrous Cross . He 1 8 0 H AM PSHI RE

of our o is perhaps the greatest hymn writers . O G d ” our e s of help in ag s pa t , There is a land pure

He delight and other wonderful hymns are his . di ed in 1 748

Memorial t o Floren ce Nig htin g a le ’ (I n th e Cry p t of S t P a ul s Ca th ed ra l)

of x m John Keble , the leader the O ford Move ent , a

for Gloucestershire man by birth , was thirty years

resident in the county , first as curate , and later as

of H Ch ristia n Yea r rector ursley , but the was written 1 82 in 7, some time before he took the living . Thomas

1 8 2 H AM P SH I RE

k n h e a re for illed i t church itself . There fairs sheep a n d S d in a n d S b 2 cattle on last atur ay April on eptem er 9 .

G S 1 8 . 8 1 0 1 0 1 1 d d 6 . rammar chool foun e 3 (pp 9 7, 9 , 4 , 5 , 9 ,

l s oke . d G a n d d t h e A ver t Parish inclu es osport Rat Islan , Ha sla r a n d N ew B k a n d t h e B k arrac s , Royal Marine arrac s .

A n d ov e b r ancient oroug h on River Anton , at b d . meeting of a num er of roa s Present church , nearly all

B o a d S ee esfo d r tr t , Alr r

d fi n e d . mo ern , has a Norman oorway Two important — Roman road s th e Portway a n d that from Winchester to — d a n d t h e b d is Cirencester crosse near here , neigh ourhoo ’ f a n d S — t h e ull of antiquities , Roman axon Devil s Ditch , B H D n r e t c Th e G S a eb u H . ury ill , y ill , rammar chool was 8 1 1 0 1 0 1 1 1 2 6 1 0 1 8 f d d in 1 . 2 2 6 . oun e 5 9 (pp 3, , 3, 5 , , , 3 , 5 ,

a n d s le . . A h y 7m W of Winchester , has a Norman B n a d . E . church with Norman font chancel arches Traces

in b d . 8 1 of a Roman camp neigh ourhoo . (pp , CH IEF TOWN S AND VI LL AGES 1 8 3

b b S . A v in Avin g ton 5 m . from Itchen A as tation g H C is t h e d b . ton ouse , often visite y harles II , seat of the ”

S t h e k is t h e G Oa k . helley family . In par a ncient ospel

1 8 o f . The th cent . church has state pews mahogany 1 0 (pp . 9 ,

Ba dd esle No . S S E . . y, rth 3 m of Romsey The small b ut ancient church of S t John B aptist has a chained B b k S t h n . b a n d b i le Jaco ean pulpit , tom of a night of Jo d d of Jerusalem . Rectory stan s on site of comman ery of K S t the nights of John . B E d d a on S a ce . S . rt t y 5 m of An over , a joins

B n b . ra s ur E E fi n e . y Common . . . church with Perp tower 1 66 8 1 1 ) (pp . 5 , 4 3, 45 ,

B n 01d N B k t h e as 2 . E . i g , m of asingsto e , site of 8 1 a b attle b etween t h e Danes a n d E nglish in 7 . Fine

. a n d . Perp church , with two chantry chapels , monuments t h e B H t h e Near here are ruins of asing ouse , ancient seat

t h e a n d th e . of Paulet family , the scene of historic siege

Ba s in gstoke b usy railway a n d agricultural centre a n d manufacturing town at fork of main road s from d S b a n d Lon on to alis ury Winchester . It has agricultural k i a n d a n d implement wor s , cloth ng factories , large motor

k . is engine wor s Fine late Perp . church . Near station = ancient cemetery known as t h e Litten (S axon li ctun co rp se

H G . 2 enclosure) , with ruins of chapel of the oly host . (pp 3 ,

Bea l eu B u i at head of estuary of eaulieu River . Here a re extensive a n d very interesting ruins of Cistercian b b B t h e r i s t h e A ey , eaulieu , refecto y of which now parish ’ . d t h e is B k H d church Two miles own river uc ler s ar , b d 0 d . 60 6 formerly a naval ship uil ing yar . (pp 5 , 5 7, , 5 ,

Bed a on t o H G h mpt close avant . reat springs here t o k s supply Por sm uth waterwor s , There i a Norman 1 8 4 H AM PSHIRE

’ a in S t a n d fi n e old ew in ch ncel arch Thomas s church , a y

d . the churchyar . (p

E o 6 N . n S R B n . W e . . . tley miles of Alton , L ’ f a n St d 1 . Mary s church has a late Norman ont , 5 th cent

h . 1 r d in t e . cleresto y win ows chancel (pp 4 , N N d B o 2 . E . o f ew a n d ig ht n m Alresfor , Norman f E B . church with Norman ont I N N E W e . . B s ed on . . . of in t y , 4 m of Alton In centre Th e o f S t C is o f t h e 1 2 t h hop country . church ross century , with good Knight Templar monument . (p .

B o s oke t h e d in E ish p t on Itchen , now merge ast

D . 8 0 U . . leigh (pp , ’ ’ B s o s S o on b A i h p utt n Pilgrim s Way , etween lres n d B o f f h a d ford a Alton . The ishops Winchester ormerly S t a resid ence here . Nicholas church has very small Norman a n d t wo d d d . nave win ows , goo Norman oorways

’ E 1 0 S . W a a . Bish op s lth m m of Winchester . t h e B of Formerly a seat of ishops Winchester, shows ruins h b B H B of o f t e palace b uilt y ishop enry of lois . William k d d a n d o f Wy eham ie here Margaret Anjou , wife ’ o f H k t h e b b d enry VI . An artificial la e , A ot s Pon , forms

t h e d o f t h e H b . hea am le River . (p

B e n e 1 2 t h e Cla us en t um f S itt r (3 4 ) ( Roman ) , aces outh

on . ampton opposite sid e of Itchen estuary . (p N B n E . S oa rhu t 3 m . of Fareham . Late axon - a n d S a n d church , with exterior pilaster strips , axon font d On P ort s d own d i s t h e win ow . Ri ge Nelson monument , a k n 1 8 1 d d i . prominent lan mar , erecte 4

B N N ld e w 2 . W o e . r Forest village , % m . of Th e S t Lymington . church of John has much Norman k d d G wor , inclu ing an arca e of three arches . William ilpin , a n d o f F ores t S cen er V fo artist author the y , was icar r

a n d b d . . 1 thirty years , is urie here (p 7

1 8 6 HAM P SH IRE

Burg hclere (on e of t h e three Hampshire cleres K d b t h e K H b t h e B a n d ingsclere hel y ing , ighclere y ishop , B S o f . . b o n G W R B b . . . urg hclere y a aron) , 4 m New ury , B H d H a n d t h e S B a re eacon ill , La le ill , even arrows local 8 6 1 0 antiquities . (pp . , 3 ,

B on 2 . S . P e t ersfi eld f B ut ser urit m of , at oot of ’

H S t . . ill . Mary s church has a Norman nave (p

B s ed on . S E . S H b e ur l 4 3m of outhampton , on am l k T i s b d a n d d Cree . here some ship uil ing coasting tra e ,

a n d b . . 1 0 1 straw erry culture (pp ,

Ca n d ov er three villages B rown Cand over i d C d Ch lton Can over Preston an over lying N . f in d o d . Alresfor , Can over Valley Fine avenue , half a mile

in C C d . 2 length , of ancient yews , near hilton an over . (pp 9 , 8 4 ,

in H a e on . . S i s C th r gt 5 m N of avant . All aints an E fi n e a n d H d a n d arly Norman church , with tower, y e

Napier monuments .

J I a S t h e C a w on . .W . h t 2 m of Alton , home of Jane for t h e h e r H Austen last eight years of life . Chawton ouse is of E lizab ethan d ate ;

E C e i on 6 . S h r t m . of Winchester , near source of t h e it in b o f Itchen , which flows through a num er channels , d b E E b d . . . d crosse y ri ges Fine . church Local tra itions b t h e C in 1 6 . survive of attle of heriton , fought here 44 . (p

C co b d a n d h of hil m a j oins Winchester, has c urch t h e t h e C time of Norman onquest .

Christchurch b orough at j unction of Avon a n d S d C H b Ha s tour , at hea of hristchurch ar our . a mag nificent r t h e of C b prio y church , remains hristchurch Priory , uilt

1 8 8 H AM P SH I RE

n E E w k b b d b a d . . y Flam ar , showing eautiful Norman or , a n d d very perfect vaulted Perp . choir with canop ie stalls . e a re fi n e a n d Ther also several chantry other chapels , a d d d o f d a n d t o t h e splen i rere os Perp . perio , a monument S h r o f d e . a e poet helley un er t W . tower There also ruins C a n d o f d b d Christchurch astle , Norman omestic uil ings . 8 8 . 0 60 62 1 2 1 0 1 2 0 1 0 1 1 6 (p p 9 , 3 , 5 5 , 5 7, , , , 7, , 4 , 4 3, 4 , 1 1 1 1 4 7, 9 , 5 , 4 I m W B O . S k c k e 7 . . d Chur h a l y 4 } of asing sto e , at hea o f d d d Test valley, has an interesting flint church e icate to S t d b 1 0 Ma lsh a n er in h 0 . t e b Leonar , re uilt 5 g , neig h our d t h e b o f A b a n d hoo , was irthplace rch ishop Wareham , t h e f ancient seat of that amily .

fo d n k U e a d . Clat r , pp r has a mill ironwor s Its interesting church has a t wo - arched arcad e d ivid ing ’ nave a n d chancel . Goodworth Cla tford S t Peter s church has early Norman a n d Trans . nave a n d shingled 8 spire . (pp . 4 ,

f S o o S o . C mpt n 2 % m . . Winchester All aints

S x d a n d a n d . church has a on win ows , Norman nave font O n Compton Down Crom well encamp ed at t h e opening of t h e o f a re b in sieg e Winchester . There some arrows the b d neig h ourhoo .

o i n Ha s C rha mpton Meon Valley . an ancient S x S a n d fi n e old ew a on church with Frith tone , a very y

‘ 8 1 (p p :

Cosha m a large village on t h e mainland opposite d d b t h e t h e Portsea Islan , forme y amalgamation of parishes

o f d a n d . Wi ley Wymering . (p p 5 7,

N W a le . . . Cr w y a villag e 4 m of Winchester, much b b in of which has recently een re uilt p icturesque style . ’ S t is E E o f Mary s church chiefly . . , with traces an earlier

Norman b uild ing . (p .

1 9 0 HA M P SHIRE

Roman road can b e traced from here t o S tone Point . 8 E E . 66 6 Church . . (pp , ,

’

o fo d o n . E . o f B Dr x r village Meon , 5 m ishop s E E d a n d Waltham . Norman church , with . . nave arca es ,

k d 1 8 . 8 1 0 1 some much later wor , restore 4 7. (pp 5 , 4 , 34 ,

W f B k S . o . S nt Dummer 5 m . . asingsto e All ai s d 1 b d church ates from 3th century , has a curious al acchino k f d t h e d li e structure , which ormerly covere roo , some b a n d d b interesting rasses , a woo en elfry .

E a s tleig h larg e mod ern ind ustrial centre at o f n d S W R a . S . . junction Portsmouth outhampton lines , L . Carriage a n d locomotive works employ t h e b ulk of t h e

k . 0 1 00 1 02 wor men . (pp 3 , , ,

E a s on d t attractive village , with picturesque thatche n h E f o t e . . o . S t cottages , Itchen , 3 m . N Winchester ’

i s fi n e n E E . 8 a d . Mary s a late Norman . . church (pp 7,

E d o f S on t h e d ling at hea outhampton Water, e ge ’ o f t h e N e w S t Forest , has an early Norman church , Mary s , d 1 8 6 Th e b a re restore 5 . parish em races Totton , where

- a n d d . large flour woo sawing mills . (p

f o n E a . . o d . lling h m 3 m N Ringwoo , Avon All ’ S n ow d S t is o f 1 aints , calle Mary s church , largely 7th ’ d b i s S o f century ate . Dame Alice Lisle s tom near . wall

C i 1 f h V . 8 6 s t e . nave . Moyles ourt m . rom illage (pp ,

E o E f h a s s 6 . S . o mp h tt a small villag e , m Alton , E E H . . d s an interesting church ( oly Roo ) , with a curiou

d b a n d d a n d . glaze elfry , a g oo screen font . (p

E swo 2 2 2 in d d in b n 2 111 m rth ( 4 inclu e War li gton , . E o f H C s H S . b . is n avant , on hiche ter ar our It a yachti g CH IEF TOWN S AND VI LL AGE S 1 9 1

a n d d Th e is station , with fishing coasting tra e . place

b d . celeb rated for it s oyster e s . (pp

W in h fi E v e s le . . c e ld b d . r y 5 5 m N of , on the or er K 1 8 2 1 8 Charles ingsley , curate and rector here from 4 to 75 , is b d in t h e d . B fi n e b urie churchyar ramshill , a Jaco ean

d b in 1 60 i H I . is resi ence uilt 7for Pr nce enry , son of James , 1 0 near . (pp . 9 ,

k a n d W N . Fa reha m mar et town small port at . en d H b . B d of Portsmouth ar our usy in ustrial centre , with d a n d a n d tanyar , flour mills , potteries , an active coasting 1 0 1 0 1 1 6 d . . tra e (pp 5 7, 4 , 5 , 34 , 9 ,

a b e la n e W l . S . a e . F r y Ch m r y , a small parish 7 m of t h e th e Winchester , with a church containing monuments of f r S t John family o some three centuries .

d Fa rn b oroug h near Al ershot . An important

n a ir- h military a d craft centre . Parts of t e parish church a re a n d is b d t h e Norman , there a eautiful woo en porch of Th e 1 5 th century . Roman Catholic memorial church h a n d t h e contains t e mausoleum of Napoleon III . Prince 8 0 Imperial . (pp . 9 , ,

n . S . o f . E . E G b r Fa rrin g d o 3 m Alton Church . il e t

1 61 - 1 8 White was curate here , 7 75 .

a wle d yilla e o n S F y scattere g outhampton Water, W w fi n n E E N . e a d . 3 m . . of Calshot , ith Norman . church

(All Saints) . (p .

lee d B s k s F t resi ential town on a ingsto e line , ome b . . d b in 3 m west of Farn orough Fleet Pon , a out i m . a n d 1 0 in is k in length , 3 acres extent , the largest la e the county . 1 9 2 HAMP SHIRE

F o d n b d e o n 1 0 . S . o f S b r i g ri g Avon , m alis ury . Ne w b Ancient Forest town , formerly with usy manu D Ha s E . E . a n d e c . S t f . w actures an church ( Mary) , ith

a d d o . . 0 1 1 0 1 0 c rve woo r of (p p 9 , 3 , , 3 ,

’ Gos o G d in k on p rt o s port) , Alversto e Parish , H b . d . a n d W si e of Portsmouth ar our Imp ortant seaport , b a n d naval victualling centre , with har our , naval hospital , k a re large b arrac s . There some interesting Georgian ’

H M S . Vi ctor . . . on houses y , Nelson s flagship , lies the H b H ’ Gosport s id e of Portsmouth ar our . and el s organ i s

h H . 8 0 in of t e . the church oly Trinity (pp ,

W . S . . d Th e Gra teley 7m of An over . church i s b s E E d f noticea le as possessing ome . . staine glass , ormerly in S alisb ury Cathed ral . (p .

N P r fi l G ea a . E . et e s e d is n ow d r th m 5 m of , rapi ly d t o t h e b o f B d a n d evelop ing , owing esta lishment or on

C . L on g m oor amps close b y . (p 4

d G E f G e we . . o r y ll (locally pronounce rewell) , 5 m k Th e o f S t d B . asingsto e church Mary has a woo en tower ,

k b d d - a n d re - a remar a le carve roo loft , a p Conquest chancel .

l n a st ra lin E H d o . S a mble g g g village 7 m . of B ’ G f ishop s Waltham , with eorgian houses ronting street . E o f E k d arly home nglish cric et , with historic matches p laye n Th e B a t a n d B in n on B roa d h a lfp en y Down . all was k b d N ren t h e H b d formerly ept y Richar y , great am le on

k Th e S S . a n d d cric eter . Church of Peter Paul has a g oo

E k . a n d E . . d eal of Norman . wor (p

o f H b E C Hambl e at mouth am le stuary . entre of

- fi sh d it b d . Th e shell in ustry , much of eing importe training M ercur b a re d for t h e ship y , where oys prep are navy , lies St d up t h e river . The church of An rew has a Norman 62 1 0 1 1 0 1 08 d . . , , , oorway (pp 5 7, , 9 5 7 ,

1 9 4 HAMPSH IRE — ru i ns o f Netley Ab b ey found ed in 1 2 37b y Henry III a n d b elonging t o t h e Cistercians a re of consid erab le extent .

S . W f H e . . o s . n K b ur l y 5 m Winchester Joh e le , curate a n d afterward s vicar here (1 835 t o reb uilt t h e out of t h e o f t h e Ch ri s ti a n Yea H church profits r. e is b d in t h e d a n d d in t h e urie churchyar , Richar Cromwell o ld a re of an d church , where monuments Cromwell family ,

of St e rn h old t h e . . 1 1 , metrical psalmist (pp 73, 79 ,

H s b o n e P o s t h e N E . ur t ur ri r on Test , 35 m . of ’

d . S t A d d An over n rew s church has Norman oorway . H b k i s t h e of t h e E urst ourne Par seat arls of Portsmouth . 2 8 1 1 1 1 0 1 (p p . 7, , 3 , 4 , 5 5 ,

H s b o n a a n . . d S t ur t ur e T rr t 5 m N of An over . ’ . d a n d Peter s church has Trans Norman oorway , a spire 2 8 with shingle roof . (pp . ,

N en bb a s 111 . E . Itch A 4 of Winchester , on Itchen , a n d d has a church with Norman chancel oorway . An ’ f s o f S t b b o f hoot Mary s A ey , Winchester .

’ Kin g s Somb orn e interesting water village on th e

- S b . S o f S kb d d d b om orne , 3 m . toc ri ge , with thatche , au wall n d o f D e c a d . cottages a flint church . perio

8 N W k K n s e e . . . o f B i g cl r small town , m asingsto e , d d d t o S t r has a Norman church e icate Ma y , with monuments h Th e K a re t o t e Kingsmill family . ingsclere racing stables 6 8 6 1 2 f . . amous (pp 3 , , 4 ,

a e s oke a n d eefo k d on L v r t Fr l unite parishes Test , k H o f t h e E o f . 3 m . . Whitchurch Laversto e ouse , seat H u f of wh o d b k- ug enot amily Portal , have ma e an note wa s 1 2 . k C b 1 2 6 pap er since 74 Freefol hapel , uilt 5 , 8 8 d b B o f . . 2 authorise y a ull Pope Clement (pp 7, 79 , 4 , 5 , CHIEF TOWN S AND VI LL AGE S 1 9 5

ss N E P e t e rs fi e l . . d v . Li a large illage , 4 m of rapid ly growing owing to military camps in neighb our

d . . hoo (pp 4 3,

on N W . . . Th e Littlet 3 m of Winchester . small d d d S t C i s church , e icate to atherine , mainly Norman .

H S n on igh treet , Lymi g t

h E o s 2 t e . . d . L ngp ari h (79 ) on Test , 4 m of An over ’ d k in t h e b H d Dea man s Plac , neigh ouring arewoo Forest , h E ZE t h e lwo l b K E d record s t e murd er of arl d y ing gar .

t h e S f d . on s o k . . o L g t c on Test , 5 m An over Inter o ld d esting village , with many thatche cottages . A Danish l k f r b f d . d oc o long ships has een recently oun here . (p Lymin g ton b orough a n d market town on estuary t h e o f H . a s of Lymington River , with ferry to Isle Wight d in h a mayor a n d co rporation . Formerly engage t e salt d i s n ow a n d b d in ustry , a yachting minor ship uil ing centre . 0 62 6 1 06 1 1 0 (pp . 5 , 5 7, , 5 , , , 1 9 6 HAM PSHIRE

n d s in t h e N e w h a v rn Ly hur t a small town Forest , g a C f fi n e mod ern church with a Leighton fresco . ourts o S wain d a n d a re a re . mote hel here , there interesting Forest relics (P

- M o E a s in . . of e n t Meon Valley , 4 m W Peters

fi l S i s a n d E . E . b d e d . All aints church a Norman uil ing , k b b k S e e d St with a remar a le lac stone font . ( un er Ma ry

Bo n e . . 1 0 ur ) (pp 4 ,

Meon Stoke ad j oins Corhampton a n d E xton in f Old H is Meon Valley , at oot of Winchester ill , on which t h e site of a Roman camp . (p .

- e on es t h e . M W t picturesque village on Meon , 3 m E S t h n t h e E W . of ast Meon , with a church ( Jo vangelist) of

D c . 0 d fi in t s e . d . square , mainly of perio (p 3 ,

Micheld ever on L . 7m . N . of Winchester . Th e is d a n d church mo ern of peculiar style , with an octagonal Th e i s o f t h e nave . tower all that remains ancient church ,

d b . 8 1 1 d . which was estroye y fire (pp , 45 ,

Milford - on - Sea an attractive a n d rising summer B a h E E m . T e a n d resort on Christchurch y . . ( partly Nor an) S i Th e ff church of All a nts has a quaint tower . cli s here 6 b d in . . ab outs a oun fossils (pp 5 ,

N M n s ea d ew 2 . i t an attractive Forest village , m d a n E E o f d . . N . N . W . Lyn hurst , has an interesting Norman h S h N t h T e t e W . e church . Rufus tone , at . part of parish , is supposed t o mark t h e sp ot where William Rufus was

d . kille . (p

o sfon . . . . is t h e M tti t 4 5 m N N W of Romsey , on i b b d t h e o f Test . Mott sfont A ey stan s on site an u t h e 1 2 t of i Aug stinian Priory of th cen , wh ch portions

' i s a fi n e in St remain . There Norman chancel arch ’ c . And rew s chur h . (p

1 9 8 HAM P SH I RE

r fi ld t h e d t h e P ete s e (4 ancient town at hea of Rother . k St Mar et p lace has equestrian statue of William III . ’ Peter s church has a very fi n e Norman chancel arch a n d E f E d . o S some . . win ows Fine scenery outh Downs , But s er H a n d a n d k with ill other high points near , a la e f H a s a n d O o 2 2 acres . a large cattle sheep fair on ctob er 1 1 1 6 1 1 1 1 h . 2 1 2 2 6 6t . (p p , 4 , 33, 4 , , 3 , 5 , 9 ,

k Da P eters fi eld Mar et y ,

o s s e a o f t h e P rtche ter a Roman fortress , much ruins o f d which still remain , covering 9 acres . In Norman ays t h e n ow d d b was chief war p ort ; superse e y Portsmouth , n Th a d a n r o f . e left hig h d d y . Fine ruins Norman castle fi n e Norman church of S t Mary was orig inally t h e church o f b b I I n d d t o b b H . a an a ey uilt y enry , remove later S k h n t h 1 8 t e e d o f e . outhwic . At th cent many French o f d a n d prisoners war were interne at Portchester , k t h e b o f later , Dutch prisoners ta en at attle Camper 8 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 2 1 1 0 1 d . 1 6 2 0 2 own (pp . 5 , 7 , , , , , 3 , 34 , 4 , 4 7, r CHIEF TOWN S AND VI LLAGE S 1 9 9

P or sm o a n d t uth large town , naval station S W a n d . . . d C t arsenal , seaport , 74 m of Lon on , onsis s of b t h e four parts , Portsmouth eing garrison town , Portsea ’ d k d d t h e k n a n d S the oc yar , Lan port wor ers tow , outhsea

- i s t h e the watering place . It most important naval

o in t h e d a n d i s d . stati n worl , very strongly fortifie It has a n d it s a long interesting history , receiving first Charter k ‘ k f d . B rom Richar I Villiers , Du e of uc ingham , was ’

d 1 6 8 . S t t h e G mur ered here 3 Thomas s church , arrison k d Gun S a n d church , the Doc yar , Wharf , ally Port , famous Th e o ld hotels are among the chief ob jects of interest . house where Charles Dickens was b orn is now t h e Dickens 8 1 0 60 62 2 8 0 1 00 1 0 1 1 0 Museum . (pp . 4 , , 3 , 5 , 5 7, , , 7 , , , 7, , 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 61 1 6 1 0 1 1 1 8 , 7, , 4 , 5 , 7, 4 5 , , 5 , 7 , 7 , 7 ,

Redb d e in b k ri g Mill roo parish , at mouth W S d of the Test , 4 m . N . . of outhampton , with ree swamp s all along the estuary . It has some shipping

d . 62 tra e . (pp , k n wood 8 . . Ri g mar et town on the Avon , m N of d Christchurch , on western e ge of New Forest . An d ki a n d in ustrial centre , chiefly ma ng gloves agricultural n d b d i 8 1 0 a t s a le . 0 implements , cele rate for . (pp 3 , 5 , 3,

N W Ro kb o n e e d . . . c ur west rn e ge of county , 35 m d b rd Th e S t d of For ing i ge . church of An rew has a Norman d a n d d o d oorway woo en tower . A R man villa was foun in 1 1 here 9 3. Romsey very ancient b orough a n d market town

N W S . b b on the Test , 7m . . . of outhampton Romsey A ey is t h e t h e b b d d church of ancient a ey , originally foun e here 1 0 it d d a n d i s d 9 ates from Norman ays , a particularly goo h O d t e S . example of a conventual church . utsi e transept i s b S d it s a eautiful axon roo . Romsey was given charter

b I . a n d i s b y James , a usy little town , with tannery , several a n d B b b . mills , a factory of erthon collapsi le oats Paper 200 H AM PSHIRE

d h a s . n ow milling , once extensively carrie on here , almost d b b b s cease . A ronze statue y No le of Palmer ton , who b B d d in b d d in was orn at roa lan s , the neigh ourhoo , stan s k 2 8 o 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 2 the mar et p lace . (pp . , 4 , 5 , 9 , , 9 , 3, 5 ,

Ro e d pl y a large parish , containing many scattere E d hamlets , some 4 m . . of Alresfor .

Sa sb a n d Swa n w ck f m d ri ury i , an ecclesiastical parish or e Tit ch fi eld in 1 8 is t h e out of 37, a great centre for early b d straw erry in ustry . (p .

St a Bou n e t h e B o f M ry r on ourne , 5 ’ d S t r An over . Peter s is an interesting Trans . No man b k f m b church , with a lac stone ont of Ton ai mar le , similar t o E a n d hi a re f that of ast Meon church , of w ch there our in s b i examp les the county, the other e ng at Winchester ’ d a n d S t s S Cathe ral Michael , outhampton . The church d ’ b . contains a Crusa er s tom . (p

S lbo n E d a s e e 111 . of r 4 5 S . Alton . Immortalise G b d the home of il ert White . The churchyar has a famous ew k G b d y tree . The Wa es , where il ert White live , the P la is t owe a n d H th e play spot) , the anger, are chief d i s points worthy of note . The country all roun extremely a n d 2 2 1 8 2 interesting full of charm . (pp . , 4 , 43, 4 , 5 , 9 7,

N B k W f . S e b o n e onks . . h r r , M 35 m of asingsto e fi n E E h l P rior ch urch a n d e . . t e o d A chancel , p art of y ‘ ,

f . elegant Norman tower , ormerly central , remain

k Th e B . Sherb orn e St J ohn 2 m . N . of asingsto e ch in e d b ooks b S t d a . interesting church of An rew has , rasses il t h e B f a n d d b . A rn e of rocas amily , a goo Jaco ean pulpit N E is fi n e E b V n e t h e . . a liza ethan mansion , The y , home h o f t h e S d f . B t e orig inally an ys amily eaurepaire , home

f o f B is in t h e . of the ancient amily rocas , also parish (9 I 73

202 HAM PSH I RE

S o kb d k on t h e t c ri g e a long , straggling mar et town 8 N W o f b Da n eb ur a n d Test , 5 m . . . Winchester, etween y b s i s f m fo r i a n d Wool ury Ring . It a ous trout fish ng eels , a n d f on 1 0t h Th e has an annual sheep air July . famous Da n b r e u y S tab les a re ab out 3 miles away . It was at S kb d b of G k toc ri g e that Ro ert loucester was ta en prisoner, while eng aged in a rearguard action t o p ermit of th e escape o f h is t h e E d f o sister , mpress Mau , rom Winchester t d a n d 1 1 0 Lu gershall Devizes . (pp . ,

S ok Ha s e a . o f . t Ch rity 7m . N Winchester some historic monuments in t h e very interesting Norman church S t of Michael .

S on e a Nor a n d S o 1 62 a n d Two t h m , th uth ( 9 E f h f b . o S T e villages lying N . y outhampton . ormer has S t t h e b o f d an interesting church ( Nicolas) , with tom Lor H k a n d t o wh o d d aw e , another some Venetian sailors ie n while o a voyage t o S outhampton in med ieval times .

Stra tfi l 8 N E o f B k on t h e e ds a e . . y miles asingsto e , B k b d d t h e a n d d er s or er . Inclu es estate house presente t o t h e k o f h Du e Wellington b y t e nation after Waterloo . Here is t h e Wellington ‘ Monument d esig ned b y B aron Ma ro ch et t i 8 2 (pp . ,

’ d 1 B St S on n E o f . y m to m . . urghclere Mary s church has a good Norman d oorway removed from t h e f 8 original church . (p p 33, 4 ,

W o f B a d e d 6 N . . T l y a scattere parish , miles asing ’ k S t i E E d d s . . sto e . Peter s a small church with a goo carve d d 1 6 0 pulpit , ate 5 .

dwo o b N W o f d S 6 . . . Ti rth , uth a out m An over ,

r b k d is in . has larg e milita y arrac s . North Ti worth Wilts 1 0 8 0 8 1 2 6 (pp . , , 4 , , CHIEF TOWN S AND VI LL AGE S 203

d . Thruxton 5 m . W . of An over Roman antiquities h S d T S . n e . a re ab und ant i neighb ourhoo . church ( Peter D n n fi n d . a d e a n d is e c . a Paul) chiefly Perp , has some early monuments . (p .

bo n e = B o ld Tich r ( Itchen ourne) , a charming , S W d t h e U d 2 . . . worl village , m of Alresfor , on pper Itchen S t h e b f b Valley . eat of Tich orne amily from efore the ’ Ha s S t d Conquest . a Norman church ( An rew s) of great a n d a n d o f interest , with ancient pews pulpit , monuments 2 8 6 1 0 b rn e s . t h e Tich o . (pp 9 , , 4 ,

Titch fi eld small b ut ancient town near mouth of H d b b Meon . ere formerly stoo a Premonstratensian A ey , d d b W riot h e sle E S pulle own y y , arl of outhampton , H b H Chancellor to enry VIII . , who uilt Place ouse , ruins i s o f of which remain . The church great interest , with k d d Norman wor , ecorate chantry chapel , and a monument W ri ot h esle H b k t h e to y . ere Charles I . em ar ed for Isle of t h e d d Wight when attempting to escape from Roun hea s .

S f W in w fo d b . . o T y r a eautiful village , 3 m a n d chester, on the Itchen . Pope was at school here , B k h is b here enjamin Fran lin wrote most of auto iography . t h e d i s d ew In churchyar an ancient clippe y . Large S a re 0 8 arsen stones numerous . (pp . 3 , 4 4 , 4 ,

B ’ Y U a . . . . . ph m 3 m N N W of ishop s Waltham oung ,

t h e t h e N i h t Th ou h ts b 1 68 . author of g g , was orn here , 4

W a l o Ne e O e a n d ddle l p , th r v r Mi (hamlet) , th e B k d N W f o f S k 111 a n . . on Wallop ec , 4 to 5 . W . toc O n D n k a b H i . b rid ge . e ury ill s an early circular earthwor 1 0 (pp . ,

W a rbling ton is a larg e village on t h e S ussex b d 1 111 E H h S t S . T e or er , . of avant . ancient church of 204 H AM PSH I RE

a B k i s a n d S Thomas ec et very interesting , has some axon

k S o f t h e x . . 1 0 wor . ome ruins castle e ist (pp 4 ,

W a rn ford (W a rren ford) a small village on t h e ’ ’ H N E f B . K 6 . . o Meon , m . ishop s Waltham ing John s ouse , in d k is d d f t h e a ruin Warnfor Par , a misnomer erive rom S t h t o it b d d Jo n family , whom once elonge . Warnfor was ’ t h e s cene o f Wilfrid o f York s evang elising of t h e Meon d d b b in t h e Valley , as recor e y ancient stone ta lets church , E E d S . a n which has a Norman tower , an . nave , a axon d 1 2 sun ial . (pp . 4 ,

W eek or W k d Th e e y e a j oins Winchester . ancient b o f 1 8 church contains a curious rass 4 9 , with a figure of S t 8 Christopher . (p .

W ow E a s W s d ell , t e t scattere parishes some

111 . . o n t h e b d 4 W of Romsey , or er . Florence Nightingale i s b d in E . d . 1 2 urie Wellow Churchyar (pp . ,

in G f . e . . . W yhill , Penton ra ton parish 3 m W N W of A d is d for it s k a n d n over , note g reat stoc agricultural

- h e d f d O b roth 1 t h . T pro uce air hel here annually , cto er 4 ‘ chancel in t h e church (S t Michael) is of early Norman d 1 2 1 ate . (pp . ,

e w 2 d H Wh r ell (5 9 ) (locally pronounce orrell) , a historic t h 111 E f d H d e S . o village on Test , 4 . An over , near arewoo Of t h d . e b b b b E d Forest famous a ey , uilt here y lfri a , wi ow K E d n 8 8 1 1 o n ow . 2 2 of ing gar , traces remain . (p p 7, , 4 , 9 ,

W b ut hitchurch a small ancient town on Test , b ut a n d with a mayor no corporation . It has mills a S o f K . fishing centre , with memories ing sley All aints f in o f F rit h b ur a S x church has a curious e fig y stone g , a a on

d . 2 la y (pp . 7,

206 HAM PSHI RE

e d os W es R re , inch ter Ca thedra l

1. E ( rected by B i sh op F ox)

W k a ic h m villag e . . on t h e 4 m N of Fareham ,

, k Meon with a p leasing mar et square . Was t h e b irth p o f i o f k in 1 2 . 8 lace Will am Wy eham , 3 4 (p . CHIEF TOW NS AND VI LLAGES 207

W n es e f a n d i ch t r a city , orming county town E d k t h e B ancient capital of nglan , nown to ritons as G t h e B e l a rum a n d t h e Caer went , to Romans as Venta g , to

S W in t a n - cea s t ir a n d axons as , full of historic memories of k E b d t h e early ings of Wessex , g ert , Alfre , Cnut , William Of a n d C e t c . onqueror , ancient fortifications , Westgate n t h e Th e Kingsgate a d some portions of walls remain . d b in 1 0 t h e H t h e Cathe ral , egun 79 , County all , ruins of

” S oo n es e Co e e ch l , Wi ch t r ll g

Th e rea t S ch ool Room built b W a rd en N i ch ola s 1 68 ( g y , 3)

W o lv es e a n d H d b b a re y Palace , y e A ey all of special interest , i s t h e of E b as Winchester College , mother nglish pu lic d d b k in 1 8 schools , foun e here y William of Wy eham , 3 7. is a n d t h e d of Winchester an assize city , hea quarters County C t h e d C o f S ouncil of A ministrative ounty outhampton . Th b J: e eautiful Norman m . to the S . d d in 1 1 2 . 2 6 8 6 , was foun e 3 . (pp 9 , 3 , 3 , 5 5 , 7 , 1 0 1 0 1 0 8 1 1 1 1 8 1 1 1 2 0 1 2 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 6 1 0 3, 5 , , 7, , 9 , , , 4 , 5 , 3 , 208 HAM P SH I RE

1 2 1 1 0 1 1 6 1 1 8 1 1 6 1 1 8 1 3 , 34 , 4 , 4 3, 4 , 4 7, 4 , 4 9 , 5 , 5 7, 5 , 5 9 ,

fi E o f B k S W in h ld . . . R W c e . 9 m asingsto e , on L . . ’ is in S t There much Norman architecture Mary s church , b a n d b nota ly a narrow Norman chancel archway , a eauti 8 d a n d d d . d . fully carve moul e W oor . (pp 5 ,

. . o f O k Th e b r Wolv e rton 5 m N a ley . eautiful ed b rick church o f S t Catherine is said to have b een d esigned b y S ir Christop her Wren .

Won ston on t h e B ullington h S d T e . of S 6 . . . tream , m N of Winchester oorway the

H is . church ( oly Trinity) , Norman

‘ W oodh a E a s t d in t h e E b y , a scattere p arish n orne Th e B o f h a d Valley . ishops Winchester formerly a palace B k d i s in . here . West Woo hay er s . (p

b E d o f W oolston a su urb of Southampton on . si e k Is S . Itchen estuary , opposite outhampton Doc s an ’ x b d Th orn e croft s - b e tensive ship uil ing centre , y motor oat k 0 8 0 d . . wor s emp loying many han s (pp 3 , ,

Y l h B k h E b a te t e t e . . d o f y on lac water, on N or er ’ t h e S t i s b t county . Peter s church mainly u has a

. d Norman N oorway .

21 0 HAM P SHI RE

0 O O O 0 0 0 0 O 0 O O 0 Q 0 O 0 O 0 0 O 0 0 0 0 O 0 0 0 0 O 0

o o o o o o 0 0

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H a m psh i re E n gla n d W a le s 649

W es tm o rla n d 8 3

F o a a d en s of o la on to th e s a e ig . 3. C mp r tive ity P p u ti qu r 1 2 1 E a ch d ot re res en ts 1 0 ers on s mile in 9 . ( p p )

F i o o o e a a g . 4 . Pr p rti nat re und er Corn Crop s comp a red with tha t of other cultiva ted la nd in Ha mpshire in 1 9 2 0 DIAGRAM S 21 1

F i . o o on a ea s of c ef e e a ls g . 5 Pr p rti ate r hi C r in Ha mpshire in 1 92 0

i 6. o o on a e a a s of n d in F g . Pr p rti t re La Hamp shire in 1 9 2 0 21 2 H AM PSH IRE

F i g . . o o on a n m 7 Pr p rti te u bers of Liv e Stock i H n amp shire in 1 9 2 0