Mindemoya Log - July, 2005

August 1 and we are anchored close to the beach hiding from the meltemi so it is a good day to write the log while the captain tears apart the engine in search of the black-smoke gremlin. The past month has been one of culture.

At the beginning of July we sailed for Mykonos and arriving off the south coast enjoyed a lunch and a swim including cleaning of the waterline and propeller before heading for the “EU” marina. Such marinas are plentiful in Greece where the EU monies were used to build the structure but the matching Greek funds never added the utilities or bow mooring lines or management. We walked across the road for a cold drink and watched the filming of a segment of E Television Travelogue that is to air at 10 pm August 8. Maybe you’ll see us at the next table.

The next day we were up early to catch a bus to town and a ferry to Delos where we tramped around the ruins for 5 hours learning about the most important archeological site in the Cyclades and the mythical birthplace of the twins Apollo and Artemis. In the 8th century BC a festival in honor of Apollo was established there and the oldest shrine remains are from that era. Delos was important politically and economically thus the many splendid homes of the wealthy. We enjoyed the striking mosaics which are still exquisite art works. The Sanctuary of Apollo contained the temples dedicated to him and the much-photographed Terrace of the Lions. The actual marble beasts are in the site museum but the plaster copies on the terrace are impressive.

We allowed all the culture to blend with a day of boat chores. Paula and Sara washed laundry while Randy and Doug carried water 60 liters a trip from half a kilometer away. We rewarded ourselves with showers and wandering and dining in Mykonos town.

After a 4-hour rock ‘n roll sail we anchored off Naxos town beneath the unfinished Temple of Apollo, Naxos’ most famous landmark. The next day we enjoyed a day visiting the island by scooter. We found the Temple to Demeter, a beautifully manicured hillside site with its informative museum and then the village of Halki, where a distillery still distills kitron the old-fashioned way. The citron looks like a large, lumpy and we found the to taste the same but it is a Greek specialty. We urged our scooters over the mountains to make the steep slog by foot to the cave of Zeus. Suppose we should have worn hiking boots instead of sandals?! Back over the mountains to see an ancient marble quarry where two kouros, nude male statues, were abandoned in 7th century BC as not-good-enough. Back on board we enjoyed sundowners and dinner before showers and bed.

Decision Day: Paula and Randy wanted to visit . If Mindemoya sailed that far south, she would have a difficult time returning to Athens against the strong meltemi winds. Compromise: they would go by ferry and we would sail to Athens and meet there to spend their last day visiting the Acropolis together. Sadly we waved them off as we felt our time together had been short but we looked forward to seeing them in 5 days.

Mindemoya sailed off the next day to make day hops to Athens. First night found us anchored all alone in a little bay on the southeast of Kithnos. Second night we discovered cruising friends on the northwest of Kithnos and stayed there. Third night we anchored under the Temple of Poseidon with more cruising friends. Fourth night we moored in Marina, a huge marina southeast of the great harbor of Piraeus. We stayed here 12 days soaking up Athens and surrounding area as well as doing much-needed boat chores and re-provisioning.

Indeed we did spend a day exploring the Acropolis with Paula and Randy. We began on the southwest slopes at the Theater of Dionysos where only 20 rows remain of the original 64 which seated 17,000. The stage was roped off so Sara had to sing from behind stage. We walked past the Asclepion which is being rebuilt, past the stoa, and on to the Theater of Herodes Atticus, completely rebuilt for use of the Hellenic Festival summer performances. Then up, up to the Acropolis, the most important ancient monument in the Western world, and through the towering entrance and along the way to the Parthenon, symbol of the glory of ancient Greece. It is magnificent as the largest Doric temple ever completed in Greece even with much of it under scaffolding. On past the Erechtheion, the most sacred sanctuary with its southern portico help up by the 6 Caryatids. Then to the museum to see the actual Caryatids behind glass and the finest kora (maiden) statues. It was late afternoon but we pressed on and walked the Panathenaic Way to the Ancient Agora with its rebuilt Stoa of Attalos and the Temple of Hephaestus. Exhausted from walking in the sun, we stopped for refreshing cold drinks before we shopped and ended our day with a lovely dinner under the lighted Acropolis. At the subway station we shared our final hugs and Paula and Randy left for the airport and we for the marina. We have so much enjoyed all our guests this summer. It is so nice to be able to share the experiencesof cruising and cultural sites with friends.

The next 10 days allowed us to see many of the sites of Athens including: Temple of Olympian Zeus, the largest in Greece, Arch of Hadrian, which divided the ancient city from the Roman city, Roman Agora with its Tower of Winds, built in 1st century BC by a Syrian astronomer, an octagonal monument , each side representing a point ofof the compass with a relief depicting the wind of that point Keramikos, the city cemetery from 12th century BC to Roman times National Archeological Museum, fabulous collection of Mycenaean antiquitiesincluding incredible gold, Minoan frescos, wonderful collection of sculpture,and a pottery collection from beginning to Attica black-figured pottery National Art Gallery, disappointingly small but the special exhibit, A Retrospective of Lucas Samaras, a Greek-American, made up for it Contemporary Art Museum, moved and no one could help us find it

And many sites outside Athens including: Delphi, perhaps the fairest of all the ancient sites in Greece with its powerful and peaceful spirit. This World Heritage-listed site was built on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos overlooking the valley and the Gulf of Corinth, an inspiring site. We walked the sacred way hand in hand as this was Doug’s original choice for our wedding. He selected a shaded site overlooking the remains of the Temple of Apollo. We walked the entire site including the stadium at the top which is the best preserved in Greece and includes the stone starting blocks. The magnificent museum is filled with the treasures from the site including the famous bronze charioteer. And Meteora, an amazing area in central Greece with monasteries perched atop massive pinnacles of smooth rock. We decided walking was the best way to see these so we left the car and walked to the base of St. Nicholas monastery. After hundreds of steps we found the frescos well-preserved and interesting. Back down to the road we found an unmarked path and climbed up, up to the highest and richest and largest, the Monastery of Metamorphosis. Graphic frescos showed the persecution of the saints, terrifying but well-preserved. Here we felt the most commercialism and the most tourist buses. From here we walked the road to Varlaam Monastery, with the biggest wine barrel, and on to the Monastery of Rousanou, now a nunnery. As the afternoon was waning and we were tired, we hitched a ride with a Belarus family on holiday back to our car. The last monastery we visited was the most austere and probably the most beautiful. There was no gift shop or museum but a small, serene chapel. Outside a set of bells and metal pieces could be played for all the valley to hear. The next morning we walked to Roka, phallus rock, and past it into the next valley via a shortcut, we thought. Turned into an unmarked path and then no path. We did it all - climbed down trees, swung from Doug’s belt, climbed up through a narrow rock crevasse, slipped down gravel paths to a rock-laid path. Once again in her life, Sara followed the old mountain goat wherever he led. And he never got her into something he couldn’t get her out of again. Thankfully.

With boat chores and provisioning, shopping and cleaning completed we paid our marina bill, 36 euros a day plus water and electricity, and headed south across the Saronic Gulf toward the Peloponnese. We selected a quiet little bay on the west side of Angistri Island and anchored for the evening. It was a nice place to clean the waterline and the propeller and rudder and keel after the growth of a marina.

We went to bed early. Good thing as the wind changed to westerly and piped up to Force 4 about midnight. As the seas and winds increased we turned around and were dangerously close to rocky sides and a shallow beach. With great skill Doug managed to keep the boat from hitting anything as the wind and waves made her hobbyhorse around while Sara in the bow was lifting the anchor. The windlass would often cut out as the lifting bow would overpower it. After we were out and the adrenaline subsided, we looked for a place to hide from this meltemi wind. We checked out a couple bays but they were not protected enough or were already taken. We found a deep, protected bay on the next island with room for us about 0300. The disco on shore was blaring but we didn’t care as we know the music must end by 0400 in Greece. It was a lesson remembered that Mother Nature is always boss and we must always be prepared. The captain wrote in the log: Lesson: Clean the cockpit nightly and have clothes ready for “all hell to cut loose”. Pick a bolt hole early when in a bay open to wind. Identify dangers within 360 degrees of scope of chain.

Next day late we headed again for the Peloponnese and anchored out for some rest and cool swims. Then we anchored in Old Epidavros harbor with mud bottom and all-around protection. No wonder the ancients loved it. From here we rented a scooter to explore the sites. Epidavros, one of Greece’s World Heritage Sites, was a sanctuary of Asclepius, god of healing. But the main attraction here is the 3rd century BC theater used to present Greek plays in the summer festival. A coin dropped on center stage can be heard in any one of its 14,000 seats as Sara proved by singing there and received applause from the upper rows. We walked the ruins of the sanctuary set among the green foothills of the mountains and found it a peaceful place and understandably healing. From there we scooted to Argos to visit the small but worthy archeological museum. After a piece of spinach pie, we scooted north to Ancient Mycenae, one of the three great civilizations of the Bronze Age in Greece. The Mycenaeans reached their peak between 1600 and 1100 BC. The site in the foothills between 2 mountains is mighty and somber befitting what is left of this mighty kingdom. It overlooks vast fertile valleys all the way to the port of Nafplio. The museum behind the site is well done and interesting even though all the beautiful and important pieces are housed in the National Archeological Museum. Nearby the site is the Treasury of Atreus or the tomb of Agamemnon. The Mycenaeans had buried their royal dead in shaft tombs till late 1400 BC and then devised a new form of burial, the tholos tomb, shaped like a beehive. The 40-meter long passage to this immense chamber is reminiscent of the pharaoh's tombs in Egypt. We returned to the boat after 11 hours of scooter-touring to a well-deserved cold beer.

Doug’s Notes for Cruisers:

EU Marinas and Town Quays

With our stay in Mykonos we have used two “EU” marinas in Greece and have visited at least two others. As Sara has described, the breakwaters, quays and concrete works are in, but the electric, water and management are not. Often these marinas have been taken over by the local fishermen who do not want to see improvements as they will then loose the free and secure harbours that these marinas provide. Consequently there are few berths for cruisers. Exacerbating the problem is the lack of consistency of mooring. Some boats go side to the quay, some Med moor, some raft next to those who went side to. Some anchor off and tie stern to boats already med moored to the quay. Never has there been more need for patience, creativity, cooperation and flexibility. At well organized town quays boats back stern to the hard rough concrete with 40 to 60 meters of chain and anchors off their bows. The anchors and chain serve two functions, first they keep the stern from slamming into the quay when the surge from the ferries pushes the boats around and second, the provide a meeting place for lots of people when your anchor has hooked my chain and pulled my anchor out. Again smiles, patience and ingenuity are called for in copious amounts.

Anchorage and Shelter

Our episode at Angistri island brings back some good lessons. Semper Paratus, always prepared. We fortunately, had time to get our ducks in order, review our tactics for retrieving the anchor and leaving the harbor and getting lights and instruments ready. We had not picked a “bolt hole”. A bolt hole is an alternative anchorage to be used if the weather changes. We also had not readied clothing, spotlight, cleared the cockpit as we should have. Note that we always do these things (honest!) except, of course, when we really need to. We were fortunate in that once clear of the small bay we were able to shelter behind a small islet and review our options. We determined that there were about four possible anchorages we could try. As we went seeking, we found ourselves in the company of others similarly situated. Our first three choices proved to be untenable for us because they were either occupied or the bottom rose too steeply making anchoring too difficult for a late night effort. When we finally decided on the disco bay we were the second boat to evaluate the area for a place to anchor. There were already about 13-16 boats at anchor and not much space left. The first boat, being to our starboard had right to look first and did so and declined to anchor. We did find a space and were able to anchor.

Sailing and Sheltering in the Meltemi of the Aegean

Well, it’s summer in the Aegean. The Meltemi is a strong north wind that can blow for days and is caused by a large high pressure zone north of the Aegean and an equally strong low pressure area in the levant. The forecasts read : NW 5-6 gusts 6- 7 occasionally 8. Some lighter breezes 4-5 gusts 6-7 in the morning, but up by 1030. Seas from 1 to 2.5 meters. Greek weather, by NAVTEX or via cell phone, is quite accurate so we know what to expect. Our reefing drill is quite polished now. We try to go with the wind or wait more favorable conditions when necessary. Our planning, both when and where to go are determined by the winds more now than is usual. Generally we go with our smallest main and some jib if going downwind or reaching. We will use a bit more main when needing to beat. We are fortunate to have such a strong and seaworthy home. Strong gust off the hills make the bays really gusty but without the surge. We have seen 36 knots in an anchorage behind the hills. We are quite happy with 5-8 meters of chain for every 1 meter of depth scope for our all chain rode and spade anchor. We use a nylon, it stretches, bridle that ties off to both bow cleats and helps hold the boat to the wind. Our wind generator is really happy.

Oh yes, the black smoke gremlin has still not been found but I think I cured the oil leak in the rocker assembly gasket. And the bilge is cleaned.