Maymester HART 3790 / May 2017

Professors Kevin D. Murphy and Betsey A. Robinson TA: Roxane Pajoul MONUMENTAL LANDSCAPES OF : NATURE, BUILDINGS, and SOCIETY (AXLE: HCA)

Possible credit in Anthropology, Classical and Mediterranean Studies, Environmental & Sustainability Studies, European Studies, French

The South of is famous for its rich and varied history and spectacular land- and seascapes as well as lively street-markets and delicious foods and wines. It also offers almost infinite possibilities for studying the relationships between humans and the natural world, and among the diverse peoples who have coexisted in the region since antiquity. Gauls, Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, French Africans, and diverse others came together at this Mediterranean crossroads. Their diverse cultural production inspired countless artists and architects, as did the unspoiled natural environment.

This Maymester course will explore the landscapes of southern France in geological time and across human history, sampling human inventions and experiences, from indigenous Celtic settlements to le Corbusier’s Unité d’habitation in . The course will be anchored in the landscape, and a recurring question will be how physical geography influences human experience. We shall take time to consider Southern France’s relation to the and fresh water resources, the elements of art—from the mining of pigment and carving of stone to the handling of light and landscape in art and architecture, and the adaptation of architecture to the environment. Two major themes will develop: 1) the history of architecture and designed landscapes, including public and private buildings, temples, churches, monasteries, and cities; and 2) the artist’s gaze, and the “making” of the Provençal landscape by Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Cézanne, and others.

The course will be based at Vanderbilt in France in Aix-en-Provence for three weeks, and in the great port-city of Marseille for the fourth. Classroom lectures and discussions will lay out the major themes and concepts, and walking tours and longer excursions will be integral to our program, leading to a fully immersive, and thoroughly transformative experience for students.

Books Garrett, M. Provence: A Cultural History (Landscapes of the Imagination). Oxford, 2012. Baxter, J. and its Artists: Art, Literature, Love, and Life on the Côte d’Azur. New York, 2015. --These are available in hard copy or on KINDLE format Scanned articles (pdfs) provided on Blackboard, bibliography below Websites, examples listed below

Films: , "Les Mystères du Château du Dé" (1929, Villa Noailles); The Price of Desire (2015, on E-1027, Gray, and le Corbusier); To Catch a Thief (1955, landscape); Connections: Faith in Numbers (1978, 10-minute section on Barbegal, Cistercian waterworks, and the industrial revolution)

Transportation: Students travel independently to Aix-en-Provence, arrive by the evening of 7 May. Nearest airport: Marseille (MRS). Shuttle-bus (navette) to Aix-en-Provence center, or fly to , then take TGV to Aix-en-Provence station and shuttle to Aix­en-Provence center.

Lodging: 7-28 May: Adagio Aparthotel Hotel, 3-5 rue des Chartreux, Aix-en-Provence http://www.adagio -city.com/gb/hotel-6796-aparthotel-adagio-aix-en-provence­centre/index.shtml

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28 May-3 June: Aparthotel Adagio Access Marseille Prado Périer, 161 avenue du Prado, 13008 Marseille

Course learning objectives: Upon completion of the course, students will:

• Understand the Provençal landscape, from the limestone calanques of the Marseillaise peninsula and the solitary Mont Sainte-Victoire to the Alps of the Riviera, and from inland river valleys to the Bouches- du-Rhône salt-marshes, and their fascinating ecosystems. They will have a sense of local products, from building stone and pigments to sea-salt and wine, sweets, soap, and perfume.

• Be able to identify principal monuments of Southern France—Greek colonial, Roman provincial, medieval, and modern, and discuss them from a variety of points of view.

• Be able to discuss major interpretive issues in landscape studies and history of art and architecture.

• Be adept at using textual and visual evidence to support historical arguments.

Attendance Policy: Attendance at all scheduled course meetings and site visits is required.

Evaluation: The evaluation of a student’s performance and the determination of her/his grade will be determined as follows:

• Class preparation/participation/attendance 50% • Journal (book and/or blog or Scalar presentation) 25% Sketching, reflections, and other contents to reflect your engagement with ideas and places • Final presentation 25% Distillation and development of major themes, personal reflections and conclusions, 15-minutes

Grade Scale: 94-100: A 90-93: A- 86-89: B+ 83-85: B 80-82: B- 76-79: C+ 73-75: C 70-72: C- 65-69: D Below 65: F

Honor Code: The instructors vigorously uphold the Vanderbilt Honor System, as described in the student handbook: http://www.vanderbilt.edu/student_handbook/chapter2.html.

In this course we support the free exchange of ideas among creative, well-informed, rigorous, honest thinkers. To make this possible—and to maintain integrity and credibility within a community of scholars—it is crucial to acknowledge the sources of our ideas, both in conversation and in writing. I encourage you to share and engage with each other’s ideas while talking inside and outside of class. For group work in class, you may represent the group as a whole without crediting individuals. All writing submitted under your individual name must be your distinctive and original work; as you engage with others’ words or ideas, always credit them through appropriate methods of citation. Plagiarism or any other violation of Vanderbilt’s Honor Code in this course will be subject to disciplinary action.

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PART I: Aix-en-Provence 8 – 27 May (3 weeks)

M 8 May 0930-1100: Welcome, organization, introductions. Aix and its history 11:00-12:00: Orientation/logistics/safety meeting with Vanderbilt-in-France team

1700-1900: Survival French 1900 Welcome reception at Vanderbilt-in-France (snacks/light dinner)

Read: Garrett, M. Provence: A Cultural History, selections; Blue Guide excerpts; Barrthes, “The Blue Guide”

T 9 May 0930-1100: Landscape and human geography (w/ guest: Vincent Ollivier, Aix-Marseille University) 1100-1300: Opening the book: journaling Provence (discussion of the materials to include in the journal, sketching exercise).

1700-1900: Survival French

Read: Garrett, M. Provence: A Cultural History, selections; Morris, “Introduction”

W 10 May 0930-1030: Archaeology of Colonialism: Greeks in southern France 1030-1130: The Invention of the French Nation

PM: Fieldtrip to Marseille (Musée d'Histoire de Marseille, Docks, Mucem), public transportation, with guest-speaker, Sophie Bouffier, Aix-Marseille University

Read: ʠ Burgin, on Marseille; ʠ Dietler, “2. Archaeologies of Colonialism”; ʠ Cleere, Guide, on Marseille

Th 11 May: 0930-1030: Coming of Empire: What did the Romans Do for Us? 1030-1200: "Lieux de Mémoire," reading and discussion

1300-: Student team-work on walking tours by neighborhood (four groups of five). 1700-1900 Survival French

Read: ʠ Anderson, Roman Architecture in Provence, selections; ʠ Nora, “Between Memory and History: Lieux de Mémoire”; and on Aixoise architecture: http://www.archi-guide.com/VL/Fra/aix_en_provence.htm

F 12 May: 0930-1030 Neoclassicism to the Origins of Impressionism 1030-1200: Working at the Granet Museum: Entremont, and Granet to Cézanne

1300-1600: Afternoon fieldtrip (local bus) to Entremont and Atelier de Cézanne 1700-1800 Survival French

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Read: ʠ Cleere, Guide: Entremont; Shiff, “Defining ‘Impressionism’ and the ‘Impression.’” Explore: Gauls in Provence: Oppidum of Entremont website: http://www.entremont.culture.gouv.fr/en/index2.html

S 13 May: EXCURSION 1: Arles (Forum, Cryptoporticus, Amphitheater, baths), Barbegal (mills), Glanum/St.-Rémy

Read: ʠ Cleere, Guide: Arles, Barbegal, Glanum; ʠ Leveau, “The Barbegal Water-mill in its Environment”; ʠ Arles and Vincent Van Gogh (Arles Tourism Board tour handout)

S 14 May: Free day

M 15 May: 0930-1045 The Annalistes and the Longue Durée in French history 1045-1200: Aix Walking Tour #1: Center West

1300-1415: Aix Walking Tour #2: Center East 1700-1900: Survival French

Read: ʠ Braudel, “Memory and the Mediterranean” 3-16, plus Murray’s “Introduction” OR ʠ Trevor- Roper, “Braudel, the Annales, and the Mediterranean”

T 16 May 0930-1030: Roman Nîmes and the taming of the Bouches-du-Rhône 1045-1200: Aix Walking Tour #3: Northwest Area

1300-1415: Aix Walking Tour #4: Northeast Area 1700-1900: Cistercians, Crusaders, and Popes (skype by E. Moodey), discussion

Read: Schapiro, "On the Aesthetic Attitude in Romanesque Art"; Morris, “Medieval Towns”

GROUP DINNER: Le Riad, 7:30 pm

W 17 May-Th 18 May EXCURSION 2 Wednesday am: Depart Aix, pass through Avignon (walls, bridge); Pont du Gard and the garrigue Wednesday pm: Nîmes (Tour Magne, Fontaine, Maison Carrée, Amphitheater). Overnight in Nîmes Thursday am: Aigues Mortes—walls, streets, and history of a medieval bastide Thursday pm: Salin d’Aigues Mortes (1:45-3), Stes. Maries de la Mer, return to Aix.

Read: ʠ Hauck, “The Roman Aqueduct of Nîmes”; ʠ Cleere, Guide: Nîmes; ʠ Bellet & Florençon, The City of Aigues-Mortes

F 18 May 0930-1030: The Classical Tradition and Historicism 1045-1200: The Birth of Modernism

F 19 May, after lunch through S 21 May: free weekend. Return to hotel by Sunday night!

M 22 May-T 23 May EXCURSION 3 Monday am: Depart Aix, visit archaeological site of Olbia. Lunch by the beach.

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Monday pm: Villa Noailles, then drive to Beausoleil. Late pm visit to C. Garnier’s Casino at Monte Carlo Tuesday am: Train to Villa Kerylos, train back to Roquebrune/Cap Martin, Plage de Buse picnic lunch Tuesday pm: Cap Moderne, return to Aix via

Read: ʠ Villa Noailles handout packet; ʠ Cleere, Guide: Olbia and La Turbie. ʠ Archinote: Roquebrune-Cap Martin: Cap Moderne; Divide and conquer ʠ Prelorenzo selections.

W 24 May 0930-1030: Design in the landscape, gardens 1030-1130: Renovation, restoration, and the persistence of historicism

PM: Bibemus quarry tour, then hike around Mt. Saint-Victoire

Read: Etlin, "Le Corbusier, Choisy, and French Hellenism…” Machotka, Cézanne: Landscape into Art, “The Late Landscapes,” 155-206 (with lots of pics)

Th 25 May 0930-1030: Taking stock: Provençal landscapes, lives, and art 1030-1200: Looking forward: Marseille in the 19th and 20th centuries

PM: Cooking course or afternoon in the Roman Baths—student choice

Read: Crane, Mediterranean Crossroads, “The View from the Bridge”

1930- GROUP DINNER, location t.b.a.

Fri-26 May-Sa 27 May: Days off

S 28 May: EXCURSION 4 Silvacane Abbey, Fontaine-de Vaucluse, l’Ile sur la Sorgue

ʠ Molina, Silvacane (guide); ʠ Pouillon, The Stones of the Abbey, selections—fiction.

PART III: MARSEILLE 28 May-2 June (1 week)

M 29 May: “Meeting Place of the World” AM: Students and faculty transfer to Marseille and leave luggage at hotels (local bus, metro); lunch

1230-1400: Exploring the Vieux Port, Hôtel de Ville, La Tourette 1400-1700: View from the water—seeing Marseille as a sailor (rental of three boats)

Read: “Dirty Sexy Cities,” link below; Euromediteranée Initiative--Revitalizing Marseille, link below. Arcitectouro--MUCEM<> VIEUX PORT: http://www.architectouro.fr//parcoursma11.html; ; Architectouro “FRAC <> SILO” http://www.architectouro.fr//parcoursma36.html

T 30 May: Marseille 1000-1300: Cathédrale de la Major and Notre Dame de la Garde (2 stops, 40-minute city-walk between)

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Afternoon—time to work on final projects

Read: van Zanten, “Vaudoyer’s Cathedral”

W 31 May: Marseille Morning—time to work on final projects

1300-1600 Unité d’Habitation; first student presentations and discussion

1700 Wine and cheese by the pool

Read: Curtis, W. J. R. "The Modulor…,” Le Corbusier, Excerpts from Toward an Architecture; Le Corbusier’s inaugural statement (link below).

Th 1 June: Marseille Student presentations and discussions, continued

F 2 June: Marseille to Cassis Students and TA visit Cassis, calanques, and old usines on the shore “In Marseilles they make half the toilet soap we consume in America, but the Marseillaise only have a vague theoretical idea of its use, which they have obtained from books of travel.” –Mark Twain

[Professors review journals (so as to return them before departure)]

1900: End of course celebration, Société Nautique de Marseille, Vieux Port

3 June Departure…

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Bibliography ʠ Archinote: Roquebrune, Cap Martin. Lyon, 2015.

Arrhenius, T. "Restoration and the Machine Age,” pp. 112-137 in The Fragile Monument--on Conservation and Modernity. London, 2012.

Barthes, R. “The Blue Guide,” pp. 74-77 in Mythologies. New York, 1972. Baxter, J. French Riviera and its Artists: Art, Literature, Love, and Life on the Côte d’Azur. New York, 2015.

ʠ Bellet, M.-É., and P. Florençon. The City of Aigues-Mortes. Paris, 2001.

ʠ Braudel, F. Memory and the Mediterranean. New York, 2001 [excerpts].

ʠ Burgin, V. Some Cities. Berkeley, [excerpts, esp. pp. 186 -191 on Marseille].

JStor Crane, S. “Digging up the Present in Marseille’s Old Port: Toward an Archaeology of Reconstruction. JSAH 63 (2004), 296-319.

ʠ Crane, S. Mediterranean Crossroads: Marseille and Modern Architecture. Minneapolis, 2011 [excerpts].

JStor Crane, S. “Mutable Fragments: Destructive Preservation and the Postwar Rebuilding of Marseille,” Future Anterior: Journal of Historic Preservation, History, Theory, and Criticism, 2.1 (2005), xiv, 1-11.

ʠ Cleere, H. Oxford Archaeological Guide: Southern France. Oxford University Press, 2001.

JStor Constant, C. “E. 1027: The Nonheroic Modernism of Eileen Gray,” JSAH 53 (1994), 265-279.

ʠ Curtis, W. J. R. "The Modulor, Marseilles, and the Mediterranean Myth, pp. 162-74 in Le Corbusier: Ideas and Forms. London/New York, 1986.

JStor Etlin, R. A. “Le Corbusier, Choisy, and French Hellenism: The Search for a New Architecture,” The Art Bulletin 69 (1987) 264-278.

Garrett, M. Provence: A Cultural History (Landscapes of the Imagination). Oxford, 2012.

ʠ Hauck, G. F. W. “The Roman Aqueduct of Nîmes,” Scientific American 260.3, 98-104.

Hildesheimer, F. 1995. Notre-Dame de la Garde, La bonne mère de Marseille, Marseille, 1995 [excerpts].

ʠ Le Corbusier, excerpts from Toward an Architecture.

ʠ Leveau, P.: 'The Barbegal Water-mill in its Environment: Archaeology and the Economic and Social History of Antiquity,” Journal of Roman Archaeology 9 (1996), 137-53.

ʠ Machotka, P. Cézanne: Landscape into Art. Revised edition. Revnice, Arbor Vitae, 2014, [selections].

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ʠ Molina, N. Silvacane Abbey Paris: Centre des monuments nationaux, 1999.

ʠ Morris, A. E. J. History of Urban Form Before the Industrial Revolution. Third Edition. London/NY, 1994.

JStor Nora, P. “Between Memory and History: Les Lieux de Mémoire,” Representations 26: Memory and Counter-Memory, Spring, 1989, pp. 7-24.

ʠ Pouillon, F. The Stones of the Abbey. New York, 1970.

ʠ Prelorenzo, C., ed. Eileen Gray, Étoile de Mer, Le Corbusier: Three Mediterranean Adventures. Lyon, 2013 [selections].

ʠ Sbriglio, J. Le Corbusier – L'Unité d habitation de Marseille / The Unité d Habitation in Marseille. Basel/Boston, 2004 [selections].

ʠ Schapiro, M. "On the Aesthetic Attitude in Romanesque Art" (1947), in Selected Papers, Vol. 1: Romanesque Art. New York, 1977.

JStor Trevor-Roper, H. R. “Fernand Braudel, the Annales, and the Mediterranean,” Journal of Modern History 44 (1972) 468-479.

ʠ Shiff, R. “Defining ‘Impressionism’ and the ‘Impression,’” pp. 181-188 in Art in Modern Culture: An Anthology of Critical Texts, ed. F. Frascina and J. Harris, New York, 1992.

Van Zanten, D. Designing Paris: The Architecture of Duban, Labrouste, Duc, and Vaudoyer. Cambridge, 1987 [selections, esp. "Vaudoyer's Marseilles Cathedral,” pp. 126-175].

Websites Aix: When living in an old city. City patrimony office: http://www.aixenprovence.fr/Patrimoine

Easy guide: http://www.aixenprovence.fr/IMG/pdf/fichpresentation-atelpatrim.pdf

Cézanne’s vantage points: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ITULKcdokCkjCulsvkmAj9PWgWDEDGE8XbA967v54do/edit

Geographical studies: http://www.societe-cezanne.fr/category/lhomme-cezanne/cezanne-dans-lespace/lieux-de-peinture/etudes- geographiques/

George Bunker (1923-91) American landscape painting, bought Bibemus quarry site and channeled Cezanne there, then willed it to city of Aix to protect and make into a park. http://articles.philly.com/1993-10-08/entertainment/25935850_1_cezanne-bibemus-quarry-richard-diebenkorn https://collections.mfah.org/art/search?classification=Drawings%2C+Pastels+%26+Watercolors&sort=artist&artist=George+Bunker

Archaeology of Aix http://www.aixenprovence.fr/Direction-Archeologie

Architecture at Aix (dominated by very recent work) http://www.archi-guide.com/VL/Fra/aix_en_provence.htm

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Archaeotouro site for Aix http://www.architectouro.fr//parcoursai11.html#.V-wbOCgrKCg

Chateau Lacoste, north of Aix http://www.arcspace.com/travel/chateau-la-coste/

Geology of Mont Saint-Victoire http://www.lithotheque.ac-aix-marseille.fr/Affleurements_PACA/13_stevictoire/13_stevictoire_index.htm

Entremont http://www.entremont.culture.gouv.fr/en/index2.html

Arles Vincent (vggallery.com)—the paintings of Arles http://www.vggallery.com/painting/by_period/arles.htm

Marseille Dirty, Sexy Cities http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2015/sep/21/walter-benjamin-marseille--cities

Unité d’Habitation http://www.marseille-citeradieuse.org/cor-cite.php?PHPSESSID=b9455f0758901ed7825661941aefdda0

Le Corbusier’s inaugural statement http://www.fondationlecorbusier.fr/corbuweb/morpheus.aspx?sysId=13&IrisObjectId=5234&sysLanguage=en- en&itemPos=58&itemCount=78&sysParentId=64&sysParentName=home

Euromediteranee Initiative--Revitalizing Marseille http://www.euromediterranee.fr/index.php?id=13&L=1

Zaha Hadid CMA-CGM Headquarters, Marseille http://www.zaha-hadid.com/architecture/cma-cgm-headquarters/

Canal de Marseille http://lecanaldemarseille.fr/j/

Riviera Cap Moderne (E-1027, Unités de Camping, Étoile de Mer, Cabanon) https://capmoderne.com/en/ https://capmoderne.com/en/visite_virtuelle/

Matisse in http://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/finding-solace-in-henri-matisses-nice

Vence, Rosaire Chapel https://vence.fr/the-rosaire-chapel?lang=en

Mougins Museum of Classical Art https://www.mouginsmusee.com/en

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Architects and artists Le Corbusier The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier. UNESCO World Heritage Centre. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1321/

Visiting Le Corbusier’s Grave http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2015/03/13/visiting-le-corbusiers-grave/?_r=0

Fernand Pouillon http://fernandpouillon.com/fernand_pouillon/architecte/architecte.html http://www.archi-guide.com/AR/pouillon.htm http://www.jeanlucmichel.com/Fernand_Pouillon/Les_constructions_de_Fernand_Pouillon.html

Miscellaneous Thomas Jefferson’s Wine Tour Through France and Italy! http://vinepair.com/thomas-jefferson-wine-map/

Marseille Soap http://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/03/world/what-in-the-world/france-savon-de-marseille-recipe.html

Walking tours of cities in the Bouches de Rhone region http://www.architectouro.fr/

Building stones of the South of France (commercial) http://www.pierres-du-sud.com/nos-pierres

Marks on major monuments like Pont du Gard, Temple of Diane http://www.academie-pontdugard.com/les-compagnons-du-tour-de-france/

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