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Making Sourdough Bread Ganache Chocolate And TAUNTON'S APRIL! MAY 1994 NO.2 FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK MAKING SOURDOUGH BREAD GANACHE­ CHOCOLATE AND CREAM HUNGARIAN STEWS fine APRil/MAY 1994 ISSUE 2 DEPARTMENTS ARTICLES Letters South Indian Chicken Curry by Aminni Ramachandran 4 20 Coconut milk and ten spices flavor its thick sauce Roasting coffee at 6 home,Q&A reheating bread in Marinating Vegetables Mediterranean Style the microwave, sweating 24 by Jeanne Quan Building up layers of flavor ingredients A Spring Menu for b by Bruce LeFavour Notes Pumpkinseed oil, 28 Simple cooking techniques Lamset you free to enjoy your guests 10 Chefs Collaborative, new KitchenAid blender Boning a lamb loin 32 Food Science Why Conquering San Francisco Sourdough by Phil Van Kirk cream sauces curdle 12 34 Make bread with a thick crust, moist crumb, and tangy flavor Tips Flaky pie crusts, Macaroons by Jane Spector Davis 16 crushing peppercorns, Simple ingredients make a classic cookie salvaging dry cake 38 Basics Roasting and From Simple and Distinct to Complex and Melded 72 peeling eggplant, clarified 42 by Gail Vance Civille How ingredients are blended butter, sugar syrups Hearty Hungarian Stews by Maria & Lorant Nagyszalanczy Reviews Cookbooks Goulash and its kindred make satisfying suppers 44 34 San Francisco 74 on sauces Sourdough Roast Chicken with Honey e Vinaigrette Flavorings Bay leaf 48 by Sarah Stegner Make everyday chicken something-Thym special 78 Calendar Cast.. Iron Cookware by Ruth Rohde Lively 79 Advertiser Index 50 It's inexpensive, cooks well, and will last for generations 79 Recipe Index Granitas by Diane Posner Mastro 81 53 Scraped Italian ices are refreshing, flavorful, and easy to make Tidbits 82 Home .. Cured Pork by Jean Jacob 58 Twenty minutes of work turns pork into velvety demi-sel On the cover: Mediterranean-style marinated vegetables, p. 24; Earthy Lentils by Kevin Taylor Granitas, p. 53. 60 Careful flavor pairings elevate this lowly legume Cover photO,lohn Kane; inset, Ruth Uvely. This page: top. Susan Kahn; center, Sloan Howard; bottom, John Kane. Ganache-A Marriage of Chocolate and Cream Back cover photo. Susan Kahn. 64 by Ortrud Carstens Confident handling unites these rich ingredients Tr iple chocolate cake 68 28 A Spring Menu ofSimple Tastes Fine Cooking0 S 1072-5121) is published bimonthly by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, cr064 70-5506. Tel. 203/426-8171. Applicaeion co mail ae second-class poscage raees is pending ae ewtown, cr064 70 and ae addieional mailing offices. GST paid regisrraeion # 123210981. U.S. distribution by ICDlThe Hearse Corporaeion, 250 Wese 55ehSt., New York, Y 10019 and Eastern ews Distributors, Inc., 1130 Cleveland Rd., Sandusky, OH 44870. Postmaster: Send address changes to Fine Cooking, The Ta unton Press, Inc., 63 South Main Street, PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Printed in the USA LETTERS We invite you to share your thoughts, opinions, and comments with fellow third tin1e, knead it for 10 percent longer. readers. Please send your cards or Yo u'll build up the experience to know fin Fine Cooking, when dough is properly kneaded. letters to letters, PO Box Another option is a new mixer being 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506. developed by the K-Tec company in WOKINGPublisher/Editor Jan Wahlin Orum, Utah. As gluten develops, bread dough becomes stiffer; once gluten has Art Director Steve Hunter CUISINART'S POWER STRAINER passed its peak development, the dough Managing Editor Martha Holmberg E FOR PUR EING begins to relax and soften, requiring less Assistant Editors The article "Tools for Pureeing" in Fine power from the mixer. The K-Tec mixer Suzanne Roman, Dana Harris Cooking # 1 omitted one tool that I find employs a computer chip that tracks how Copy/Production Editor Li Agen essential and unsurpassed for many pro­ much power is needed to mix the dough, cessing tasks. Cuisinart's Power Strainer allowing you to stop mixing as soon as Editorial Secretary Kim Landi attachment is my number one choice fo r the dough shows signs of softening. For Contributing Editor Ruth Rohde Lively painlessly eliminating skin, seeds, and more information on the K-Tec, call stones from cooked fruit and for produc­ Charlie Coombs at 800/748-5400. Design Director Susan Edelman ing purees of unrivaled smoothness. It's Editorial Director John Lively quick, easy to use, cleans up in moments, WHAT BOOKS DO CHEFS READ? Circulation Coordinator Sarah Roman and is notably quiet. To use the Power I was happy to see Yamuna Devi's The Strainer, you need Cuisinart's Citrus Art of Indian Ve getarian Cooking reviewed Public Relations Manager Donna Pierpont Juicer attachment. If your local Cuisinart in Fine Cooking # 1, and I liked the the­ Administrative Secretary Nancy Crider dealer doesn't stock them, both the Pow­ matic approach to the reviews and the er Strainer and the Citrus Juicer attach­ fact that older books as well as more re­ Advertising Manager Tom Leihbacher ment are available by mail order from cently published ones were included. I'm Advertising Accounts Manager Doris Hanley Culinary Parts Unlimited, 80 Berry Drive, curious about what chefs read and refer Advertising Sales Coordinators Pacheco, CA 94553; 800/543-7549. to. Could you ask cooking professionals Margaret Capellaro, Nancy Clark -Amanda Burton, Emeryville, CA to write about their cookbook libraries? Marketing Secretary Christine Ferguson Each cook could highlight a fe w books, GLUTEN DEVELOPMENT either general reference books or books How tocontact The Taunton Press: EQUIPMENT on special topics, or even just one crucial I was very interested by the Food Science text (even if it's out of print), and tell Telephone: 800/283-7252 203/426-8171 piece on gluten by Professor Joseph G. why the books are useful, mention a fe w Ponte, Jr. (Fine Cooking #1, pp. 14-16) . techniques they teach, and name a fe w Fax: 203/426-3434 I often make bread and have wondered recipes from them that sing. Subscriptions: about recipes that caution against over­ -Joanne Bouknight, Greenwich, Orders: 800/888-8286 CT Customer Service: 800/477-8727 kneading. Professor Ponte mentions a de­ Advertising Sales: 800/283-7252 x 547 vice used by baking technologists to test UNWISE FERN CHOICE gluten development in dough. What is I've enjoyed reading the interesting, new Retail Sales: 800/283-7252 x 238 this equipment called, how much does it magazine Fine Cooking. However, I must Copyright 1994 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc. Fine Cooking'" cost, and, if it's not too expensive, how comment on a reply concerning fiddle­ is a registered trademark of The Taunton Press, Inc. could I buy it? head fe rns. The fe rns most commonly Subscription rates: U.S. and possessions, $26 for one year, -Joan Black, Easton, CT sold and used for eating in this country $42 for two years, $58 for three years; other countries, $32 for one year, $52 for two years, $72 for three years (in U.S. are ostrich fe rns, not bracken. Members dollars, please). Single copy, $4.95. Single copies outside U.S. Joseph Ponte, Jr., replies: We use sever­ of the American Fern Society state that and possessions, $5.95. Address correspondence to the appropriate department (Subscription, Editorial, or al instruments to measure gluten devel­ bracken is considered a possible carcino­ Advertising), The Taunton Press, 63 South Main Sr., PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506. opment in dough as it's being mixed. genic, and discourage using them. Since these instruments cost several -Virginia D. Otto, We stborough, MA Writing an article thousand dollars each, I wouldn't recom­ Fine Cooking welcomes articles, pro­ mend them for a home baker. If you make Editor's note: We mistakenly added a ref­ posals, manuscripts, photographs, dough in an electric mixer, you can take a erence to bracken fe rns to Jasper White's and ideas from our readers, amateur more empirical approach by timing how reply. Ostrich fiddleheads, or Matteuccia or professional. We 'll acknowledge all long it takes to knead the dough until it's struthiopteris, are in fact the kind of fe rn submissions, return those we can't satiny smooth. Then bake the bread and most commonly sold fresh and canned. use, and pay for articles we publish. see how well it rises and what the crumb John Kallas of Wild Food Adventures in Send your contributions to Fine texture is. The next time you make that Portland, Oregon, suggests that you buy Cooking, PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT bread, knead it for 10 percent less time, fi ddleheads only from fo ragers who can 06470-5506. bake it, and evaluate the results. The identify them by their scientific name .• 4 FINE COOKI G Q&A Have a question of general interest b Fine Cooking, tender. For reasons not well understood, ing. The cover keeps moisture in so the a out cooking? Send it to PO Box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470- the energy from a microwave doesn't. ingredients soften and don't burn. For A final caution: be careful when even moister cooking, cover the ingredi­ 5506, and we'll try to find a cooking or microwaving baked products with icings, ents with a circle of parchment paper be­ food professional with the answer. high sugar-based fillings, or dried fruit fore putting on the lid. like raisins. These ingredients can heat While ingredients are usually sweat­ REHEATING BREAD very fast and may become very hot while ed in a small quantity of oil, which pre­ IN THE MICROWAVE the bread or cake portion stays much vents them from burning, you can also When I microwave bread products, cooler.
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