Hong Kong Tatler May 2016
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STYLE | JEWELLERY Diamond secret watch with 33.37-carat carved tourmaline by Graff hen the surrealist its soft, muted tones, the larger pieces are designer Elsa extremely eye-catching. Schiaparelli saw the Another lovely gemstone is the peachy 17-carat vivid pink pink morganite, discovered in 1911 and diamond her glamorous named by Tiffany & Co gemmologist George client Daisy Fellowes was Kunz after the banker JP Morgan, who was wearing, she described its also a gem collector. It’s the pink translucent colour and size as “shocking.” And in 1937, variety of beryl, which includes aquamarine, when Schiaparelli created the Shoe Hat green beryl and emerald. Colour and clarity for Fellowes, the magenta of its heel was are the most important considerations, and described as “hot” for all the attention it expect to pay prices similar to those for attracted. Thanks to these two women, we quality aquamarine. Extremely feminine and have two fabulous descriptions for a flirty, pretty, morganite looks gorgeous set in rose sexy, racy pink—and what gorgeous gems gold and is perfect for brides. Add some pink there are to be deserving of such adjectives. pearls in an individual design and you have Hot-pink rubellite tourmaline is the perfect jewellery you’ll enjoy wearing long after the gemstone for women who like to stand out wedding day. in a crowd. Large, good-quality rubellites Vivid pink diamonds may be setting with no visible natural impurities (what the auction records, but exceptional stones industry calls inclusions) have a high value weighing more than three carats are very and are becoming rarer on the market, so hard to find. Kunzite, a lovely sparkly snap them up while you still can. Prices for lavender gem, can look very much like a pink rubellite increased substantially when the diamond on the finger and for that reason, is stone caught the eyes of Asian gemstone now finding favour with jewellery designers investors and more than doubled recently and gem collectors. An interesting gem find for gems of more than three carats. of the 20th century, the stone was named About 20 per cent of the tourmaline after Kunz, who first described it in 1902. Its from the Cruzeiro mine in Brazil, one of the original name was pink spodumene—and world’s main producers, is rubellite, but only I wonder if it would have enjoyed the same a few crystals are of gem quality. Many of the success if its name hadn’t been changed. country’s older mines are exhausted, so gem One tip: don’t wear kunzite when hunters need to find collectors with old stock. sunbathing or swimming, as the colour is Rubellite crystals have a complex chemical not stable and the gem may fade under structure and are coloured by small amounts strong sunlight. In fact, jewellery should of manganese, lithium and iron. It’s the never be worn when swimming, as chlorine different levels of these elements that produce attacks the gold, and hot sunshine and cold the amazing tones, from soft pinks and bluish water may crack a gemstone. baby pinks to chocolate pinks and the striking It’s easy to forget that beautiful gems watermelon pink and green gemstones. are created by nature under extreme heat Indeed, watermelon, bi- and tri-colour and pressure, that the inclusions are the tourmalines grow in every colour imaginable. handprints and DNA of each crystal, and As each gem is unique, finding a matching pair that the colours vary according to the for earrings is always a challenge. minerals in the ground where they formed. My tip for tourmaline collectors? Collect Given the challenges involved in bringing watermelons, and seek out the pink and these coloured crystals out of the ground, lavender Paraiba-type gems. These extremely and the skill of the lapidaries in cutting and rare pink tourmalines are special because they polishing them, these gems deserve respect contain traces of copper, putting them in a as valuable gifts from the earth. La Vie en Rose similar category to the electric neon-turquoise With so many lovely pink gemstones to Paraiba tourmalines. choose from, it’s a breeze to find the perfect Pink stones are set to take centre stage this year—and if you have What if your inclination is towards the shade to complement your colouring. True a passion for the shade, Mother Nature offers plenty of options, softer pinks? Pantone says pastel pink is the luxury is wearing jewellery that’s a one-off colour of the year. Consider rose quartz, a piece, perhaps created especially for you: a writes jeweller and coloured stone expert Tayma Page Allies plentiful crystal that’s said to bring serenity, special gem that highlights your personality compassion and wellness to the wearer. With and character. 2 hong kong tatler . month year hong kong tatler . month year 3 STYLE | JEWELLERY THinK PinK Satisfy your sweet tooth with these candy-coloured jewels Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Lopez and Mariah Carey are just a few of Hollywood’s glamour girls who love to wear pink gems. Gwyneth was spotted wearing a pair of pale pink morganite earrings at the British Fashion Awards—and who could forget Jennifer and Clockwise from above: Mariah’s fabulous pink diamond Anniversary morganite engagement rings? necklace by Tiffany & Co; Halo Delilah morganite earrings This season, designers have by Boucheron worn by given the sweet pastel shade a Gwyneth Paltrow at the 2013 refreshingly offbeat attitude with British Fashion Awards; Hopi combinations in bright yellow, morganite ring by Boucheron; like Victoire de Castellane’s Soie morganite earrings in rose gold by Tayma Fine Jewellery; Soie Dior collection. Uniquely shaped Dior Gros Grain Saphir Rose morganites are artistically set bracelet by Dior Joaillerie in rose gold and paired with diamonds. The grandest maisons of the Place Vendôme in Paris are experimenting with more types of precious stones in their high jewellery with increasing frequency, and this has thankfully trickled down to the city’s fine jewellery collections. Make Me Blush A few things to remember about our favourite pink gemstones PINK SAPPHIRE MORGANITE SPINEL PINK DIAMOND ROSE QUARTZ The most coveted hues This gem’s colour range Frequently confused Due to their extreme One of the Pantone for this gemstone are includes pink, rose, with ruby, fine-coloured rarity, most vivid pink colours of the year, this saturated purplish red peach and salmon. spinel is rare above five diamonds range in the gem’s hue comes from with a medium tone— Look for large, faceted carats, and the most millions of dollars per mineral inclusions. The often described as “hot stones since these show valued hues are bright carat and come from best come in well-shaped, pink” or “bubblegum stronger hues. (Ring by red and vivid pink. (Ring Australia’s Argyle Mine. transparent crystals. pink.” (Ring by Anna Hu) Tayma Fine Jewellery) by Van Cleef & Arpels) (Ring by Chow Tai Fook) (Ring by Pomellato) 4 hong kong tatler . month year hong kong tatler . month year 5.