PRG. 28-A· (xix-xx) (N) 1,000

CENSUS OF INDIA 1961

VOLUME V-PART VII-A

SELECTED CRAFTS OF GUJARAT

19. BLOCK ENGRAVING AT PETHAPUR 20. BLOCK AND SCREEN PRINTING AT JETPUR

R. K. TRIVEDI

Superintendent of CensUs Operations, Gujarat

PRICE R~. 4.(j0 or ~O Sp, 9 g. or $ V.S. '.66 CENSUS OF INDIA 1961 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS CEl'I'TRAL GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS Census of India, 1961 Volume V -Gujarat is being published in the following parts: '" I-A(i) General Report

'" I-A(ii)a ') '" I-A(ii)b " '" I-A(iii) General Report-Economic Trends and Projections '" I-B Report on Vital Statistics and Fertility Survey :I< I-C Subsidiary Tables '" II-A General Population Tables '" II-B(l) General Economic Tables (Tables B-1 to B-IV-C) '" II-B(2) General Economic Tables (Tables B-V to B-IX) '" II-C \ Cultural and Migration Tables :t: III Household Economic Tables (Tables B-X to B-XVII) "'IV-A Report on Housing and EStablishments "'IV-B Housing and Establishment Tables '" V-A Tables on Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes @ V-B Ethnographic Notes on .. ~ ~~es and Scheduled Tribes (including reprints) "'* VI Village Survey MonograPi!-, 1 VII-A Selected Crafts of Gujara~ l .e-\ '" VII-B Fairs and Festivals '" VlII-A Administration Report-EnumeratiOn Not for Sale *VIII-B Administration Report-Tabulation '" IX Atlas Volume • IX(A) Atlas Volume (Abridged) * X-A(i) Special ReP,Ort on Ahmedabad City ;. X-B Special Tables on Cities and Block Directory '" x-C Special Migrant Tables for Ahmedabad City STATE GOVERNMENT PuBLICATIONS '" 1 7 District Census Handbooks in English '" 17 District Census Handbooks in Gujarati • Published @ General Notes on Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes and Ethnographic Notes on 'Siddi' publi~hed . •• Village Survey Monographs for fourteen villages, Pachhatardi, Magdalla, Bhirandiara, Bamanbore, Tavadia, Isanpur, Ghadvi, Chichod, Sutrapada, Jambur, Ambav, Nana Sanja, Velavadar and Abhapur published t Monographs on Agate Industry of Cambay, Wood Carving of Gujarat, Patara Making at Bhavnagar, Ivory Work of Mahuva, Padlock Making at Sarva, Scale Making of Savarkundla, Perfumery at Palaripur, Crochet Work of Jamnagar, Sujani Weaving of Broach, Soap Making at Kapadvanj, Mashru Weaving of Patan, Glass Work at Kapadvanj, Jari Industry of Surat, Transparent Lacquer Work of Sankheda, Traditional Silver Ornaments, Brass and Copperwares at Sihor, Snuff Making at Bihor and Penknives, Nutcrackers and Scissors of Kutch and Jamnagar published

PRINTED BY SHANTILAL H. SHAH AT NAVAJIVAN PRl!S8, AHMEDABAD-H.

I'UII~ By 'q{E MANAQ1!.11 Of' PUlIl.lCATIONS DJl.LHl-1970. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

1. BLOCK ENGRAVING AT PETHAPUR

FIELD INVESTIGATION M. L. ACHARYA Statistical Assistant PHOTOGRAPHS K. D. VAISHNAV

LAY OUT AND PRINTING M. P. JACOB Head Proof-Reader

SUPERVISION AND FIRST DRAFT K. P. YAJNIK Deputy Superintendent of Census Operations, Gujarat, AHMEDABAD

(SPECIAL STUDIES SECTION)

Assisted by M. L. ACHARYA Statistical Assistant

EDITOR R. K. TRIVEDI Superintendent of Census Operations, Gujarat, AHMEDABAD

2. BLOCK AND SCREEN PRINTING AT jETPUR

FIELD INVESTIGATION M. L. ACHARYA Statistical Assistant

PHOTOGRAPHS K. D. VAISHNAV

LAY OUT AND PRINTING M. P. JACOB Head Proof-Reader

SUPERVISION AND FIRST DRAPT C. P. VYAS Research O~cer (SPECIAL STUDIES SECTION)

Assisted by

1. KUM. P. C. GANDHI 2. K. C. DESAI Computors

EDITOR R. K. TRIVEDI Superintendent of Census Operations, Gujarat~ AHJI4EDABAD

CONTENTS

1. BLOCK ENGRAVING AT PETHAPUR

PAGES FOREWORD ix-xii PREFACE xiii SECTION INTRODUCTION Introduction-Location-Pethapur-Ahmedabad-Rajkot-Historical Background of the Craft 3-6 SECTION II CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN Caste and Community-Origin of Suthar Caste-Main and Subsidiary Occupation-Migra­ tion-Size and Structure-Family Workers-Hired Workers-Residential Pattern-Working Conditions-literacy-Personal Characteristics 7-10 SECTION III RAW MATERIALS 11-12 SECTION IV TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE 1. Tools-Tools and Implements-II. Technique-(i) Sawing of Timber-(ii) Tracing of Design-(iii) Engraving-Designs and Decorative Motifs 13-15 SECTION V FINISHED PRODUCTS 16 SECTION VI MARKETING Problems of Marketing 17-18 SECTION VII ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS Cost of Production and Earnings-Economic Status 19-21 SECTION VIII ORGANISATIONAL AND SOCIAL CHARACTERISTICS 22 SECTION IX CONCLUSION 23 APPENDIX Tables 27-29 LIST OF STATEMENTS IN TEXT

STATEMENT I Distribution of artisans by caste, Pethapur . 7 II General description of workshop located in the house 9 III Literacy and educational status • 10 IV Price of raw materials 11 V Cost of production and earnings 19 VI Workers by age group 20 VII Distribution of surveyed households according to annual income 21 UST OF TABLES IN APPENDIX

TABLE I Numbers of persons employed in production in surveyed households 27 II Distribution of artisan communities 27 III Designs 27 IV List of very skilled craftsmen of each community 28 V Tools and implements 28 VI Composition of workers 29 VII Working of the cooperative society 29 ILLUSTRATIONS (i) Tools Between pagel 24-25 (ii) Implements II Tracing of design on a wooden log III Engraving design on a wooden piece IV Engraving minute details V Specimen designs of the blocks

v 2. BLOCK AND SOilEEN pRINTING AT JETl'tm

PAGES SEatION INTRODUCTION Introduction-Block Printing-Location-Jetpur 33-36 SECTION II CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN Traditional Artisans-Khatri-Chhipa-Development Of Block Printing-Development of Screen Printing-Surveyed Housebolds-Migration-Literacy-Workshops and Dwellings -Hobbies and Recreational Activities 37-41 SECTION III RAW MATERIALS Muslin cloth-Colours and Chemicals 4-2-43 SECTION IV TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE A·Block Printing-Tools and Implements-Technique-B.Screen Printing-Tools and Implements-Technique-Dyeing and Developing of Printed Cloth-C-Designs-Designs in Screen and Block Printing 44-50 SECTION V FINISHED PRODUCTS AND MARKETING Finished Products-Mar)(_eting 51-52 SECTION VI ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS Capital Structure-Cost of Production-Income- Wage Structure 53-55 SECTION VII ORGANISATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS Cooperative Society-Training 56-57 SECTION VIII CONCLUSION 58-59 APPENDICES I Table. 63-66 II Unstructured Biographies 67-69 71-72 73-74

LIST OF STATEMENTS IN TEXT

STATEMENT Households by caste 40 II Literacy and educational status 40 III Rates of muslin cloth (1964) 42 IV Colours

TABLE Distribution of artisan communities 63 II Distribution of family members according to age, sex and earning status 63 III Literacy according to age and sex 64 IV Composition.of workers in the surveyed households 64 V Cost of production, sale price and earnings, 1964 . 65 VI Designs 65 VII List of very skilled craftsmen of each community 66

vi ILLUSTRATIONS

PLATE Screen making tools Between pages 60-61 II Colours and Chemicals in workshop III Set of blocks in traditional designs IV Block printing in single colour V Printing in multi-colour VI Stretching of cloth for screen printing VII Screen printing in operation VIII Rolls of printed saris IX Acidic process for fastness of colour X Printed saris are dipped in river wat!'r before "ashing XI Washing in clean water XII Final process on river bank XIII Sun drying XIV (i) Ironing of saris-a hand process (ii) Passing through rolls XV Pressing in hand press XVI Gala XVII Galo with butti in palav XVIII PaZav butti XIX Chokdi palav XX Dhaka print sari XXI (i) Dhaka palav (ii) Bandhani border XXII Chandarvo or pichhavai (Temple cloth) XXIII (i) Single star (ii) Navi Kothmir XXIV (i) Patangiyu (ii) Jui Vel XXV (i) Tar-nu-monogram (ii) Tar-nu-ltlheriyu XXVI (i) Nani badam kina, (ii) Shelur-ni-nani kinar (iii) Shetur-ni-kinar XXVI[ Block printed saris are popular among rural folk

vii

FOREWORD

One of the first steps to be taken in the study may well reveal that it is perhaps cheaper First Five Year Plan was the establishment of from the social point of view to develop industrial s~ boards for the promotion of handicrafts, skills from scratch than to try to graft traditional V1~lage and small industries: (1) The Khadi and skill on alien soil. A rather tragic case of Village Industries Board; (2) The All-India failure to make what would on the face of it Handicrafts Board; (3) The All-India Hand­ seem a minor

Thus, in the first circular of 18 February, Mention has been made of a questionnaire in 1960, it was suggested that the inquiry might three parts and thirty questions. The idea was be conducted through the agency of the to make a beginning with empirical, analytical Development Department, the State Director of studies based' on a structured questionnaire Industries, the Director of Tribal, Welfare, ,the which would replace general descriptive accounts Registrar of Cooperative Societies, and other orga­ that had obtained so far. The primary aim nisations concerned with the promotion of house­ was to obtair;t a picture as much of the artisan hold industry. A draft questionnaire containing himself as ofhis craft, to obtain a perspective of 30 questions in three parts wa~ recommended the artisan and his craft in his social and for canvassing. It was suggested that information economic setting, the extent to which tradition on this questionnaire, viflage by village and bound him and the winds of change ruffled area by area, might either be obtained through him, the extent of his mobility and immobility, the regular departmental channels of the State l the conditions of market, credit, new contacts Government, or through the newly set up Census and designs in which he operated, the frame organisation, or through the hierarchy of the of 'new as well as traditional producer-customer newly-created Panchayats. Stress was laid on , relationships in which he still worked, and how the need of photog~aphic documentation and far he was ready to pierce his own caste-tribe illustration of designs, shapes and forms not only socio-economic cocoon and make a break by photographs bu t with the help of line through to new opportunities promised by the drawings or sketches together with a full Five Year Plans. The aim was to. hold up the ,description of the materials used. mirror to hereditary skills struggling with the dialectics of tradition and change. Almost the whole of 1960 and the first half of 1961 were spent in organising and taking Thus the first part of the questionnaire, purport. the Census count, although several States even ing to be a village schedule, sought to take account during this period had not allowed the grass of the size and population of the village, its to grow under their fe~t but made exploratory remoteness from a proximity to centres of trade studies and decided in their minds how the and commerce, in shoft, the degree of isolation in inquiry should be organised. A series of regional which the artisan worked, and the relative conferences held in Trivandrum, Darjeeling and strengths of various communities in the village Srinagar in May and June 1961 revealed much which would afford clues to social interdependence enthusiasm among' State Superintendents to and the prevalence of the jajmani system. The proceed with the survey, but the need of second part was devoted to artisan communities separate staff and equipment was felt at the in the village: the several castes of artisans, the same time as the realization dawned that this number of families in each, the total number of was much too serious an inquiry to be treated workers, males and females, the extent of casually and left to be achieved through the cooperative activity among them, the extent of usual administrative channels and State Census dependence upon employers and of wage of Superintendents proceeded to augment their contract labour. There were questions on the raw staff with qualified research and investigating materials used, the means of their procuremen t, the officers, technical persons, photographers, artists, possible extent of dependence on others for raw draughtsmen and other trained personnel. materials, the extent of the material that artisans This was followed by rapid progress in can handle within the limits of their skill. There coordination between the Central and State were other questions on the exchange and flow Census Offices in the matter of exchange and of designs, the use of colours, the ancientness of processing of information, documentation and the craft and legends associated, the colonization investigation, of assisting each other with trained of the craftsman, on patrons and customers and investigators and editing and finalizing drafts, on social and economic. contact .with the layouts, presentatioI\s, 'World inside and outside the village. Then~ FOREWOitD were specific questions on the workshop itself and handicrafts obtaining in their State. As for the particularly the tools and the source of supply of specific crafts to be investigated several tables these tools, because it was felt that tools decide were devised from the structured questionnaire everything and are the surest index of inertness in order to guide investigators toward pointed or flexibility. Sep~arate blocks of questions were observation and analysis, to enable them to designed to bring out the ramifications of write, not just general descriptions, but with artisan castes throughout the country and the their eye on the object and on facts. ways they sustained' themselves, the type of clientele they catered for, the extent to which Investigations conducted between September they operated on money or barter or service, 1961 and May 1962, including a study group how specialized their craft was, how wide the of all States and the Social Studies Division in market, how dependent they were on their December 1961 at Delhi, stimulated many of socially preordained clientele and now restricted the States into going in for a much enlarged the latter was by the seemingly unalterable schedule. The revised village schedule itself, the laws of social custom; the extent to which counterpart of the first part of the February they could operate in the open market, the 1960 schedule, contained 19 large sections range of their wares and the sizes to which containing elaborate and probing questions. The these were ordinarily restricted either by the Family Schedule for practising artisan families limits of their own skill or the length of their similarly contained 19 main questions each customer's. purse-strings. Inquiries were to be subdivided into many questions. The Family made about the operation of middlemen and Schedule for non-practising artisan families of cooperative societies, the people who gave contained 21 questions. There were schedules new designs and demanded new products. for the study of cooperative societies, of production. Finally the several stages of production of the cum-training centres, and of consumer's prefe­ articles themselves were to be fully described rence. This enlarged schedule of investigation, in including the final and finishing stage and a the formulation of which the States themselves list of very skilled craftsmen of each community actively assisted, was greatly welcomed.Thesurveys was to be furnished. The third part was devoted that will appear in this series will therefore consist specially to tribal communities and designed to of two main types: (a) those based on the original find out how self-sufficient or dependent they short schedule and (b) those based· on the much were on the production and supply of manufa. enlarged schedule. In some cases Census Superin­ ctured goods, the extent to which they produced tendents felt enthused enough to scrap the work themselves or depended on others, their contacts based on the original short schedule and do it over with other communities and the specific forms again on the enlarged schedule. In the meantime of production and commerce through which these much experience was gained on the analysis of contacts were maintained. facts and figures to clothe each observation with Particular emphasis was laid on the need of plenty of authentic information so that the reader obtaining as full an account as possible of could make his own judgment instead of being unique regional design differentiations as they expected to see all the time through another reflect not only the very culture patterns of the pair of eyes. country but the persistent inventive faculties of This programme of survey of handicrafts the craftsmen. The importance was emphasised and household industries has been fortified by of giving full attention to articles of domestic several ancillary surveys, each one of which use as it is in their shapes, designs and forms would deserve major attention. Along with the that the culture patterns and traditional skills survey a compilation has been made of all persist most tenaciously. handicraft centres in each State and an inventory Simultaneously with the investigation of prepared of skilled craftsmen. Photographic specific crafts, State· Superintendents 'proceeded and other documentation has been built up to to compile a comprehensive list of all types of constitute what may now be regarded as the xi 'onWORD most considerable repository in the country. complete inventory, replete with sketches and Elaborate and accurate maps of craft centres measurements of every object, has been prepared in taluks, tehsils and districts are either ready of exhibits in museums of tribal crafts in India. or under preparation. A full census of all fairs There has been a fairly satisfactory survey of houses and festivals, weekly hats and markets, throughout and buildings, indigenous architectural designs India, has been taken and is being published and use of local building material of the whole for the first time. Andhra Pradesh has embarked country. All this has been entirely a labour of upon a project of chronicling the social and love, patiently organised and executed under religious antiquity and uniqueness of . every fair great strain and. in disregard of health and and festival. A separate volume will be devoted to comfort, for which I take this opportunity of each district which promises to be of the utmost expressing my appreciation and grateful thanks value to sociologists and orientalists. A full and to my colleagues.

NEW DELHI, ASOK MITRA, JULY 30, 1964. Registrar General, India.

xii PREFACE

Gujarat has been well-known in the country and abroad for its crafts since ages. A special study, therefore, of the selected crafts in this region along with the 1961 Census offered a good scope of finding out what they were in the past and are capable of in the present times.

This publication is the eleventh in the series of craft monographs. It studies (i) Block Engraving at Pethapur and (ii) Block and Screen Printing at Jetpur. The earlier publications relate to:

(i) Agate Industry of Cambay, (xi) Mashru Weaving of Patan, (ii) Wood Carving of Gujarat, (xii) Glass Work at Kapadvanj, (iii) Patara Making at Bhavnagar, (xiii) Jari Industry of Surat, (iv) Ivory Work of Mahuva, (xiv) Transparent Lacquer Work of (v) Padlock Making at Sarva, Sankheda, (vi) Scale Making of Savarkundla, (xv) Traditional Silver Ornaments, (vii) Perfumery at Palanpur, (xvi) Brass and Copperwares at Sihor, (viii) Crochet Work of Jamnagar, (xvii) Snuff Making at Sihor and (ix) Sujani Weaving of Broach, (xviii) Penknives, Nutcrackers and Scissors (x) Soap Making at Kapadvanj, . of Jamnagar and Kutch.

Besides the field staff and other members of the Census Organisation who have contributed to this sUl'lVey, I must acknowledge the useful comments offered by Dr. Roy Burman, Officer ·on Special Duty, while going through the draft monograph and express my grateful thanks to Shri Asok Mitra, Registrar General and ex-officio Census Commissioner, India, for his valuable guidance in the organisation of this survey in Gujarat.

R. K. TRIVEDI, AHMEDABAD, Superintmdent of Census Operations, October 11, 1968. Gujarat.

xiii

1. BLOCK ENGRAVING AT PETHAPUR

SECTION I INTRODUCTION

Pethapur, Rajkot and Ahmedabad. The chief INTRODUCTION among these is Pethapur, a village in Kalol 1.1 GUJARAT HAS been famous for its handi­ taluka of Mehsana district. It is 4 miles away crafts, especially textiles, since ancient times. from Randheja, a railway station on Kalol­ Before the beginning of the Christian Era up Vijapur-Ambaliyasan metre gauge section of to the rise of the British power in India, textiles the Western Railway. Kalol, the taluka head­ from Gujarat were popular all over the known quarters 14 miles away is approachable by world. Different branches of the silk and cotton train and bus except in the rainy season. Kalol, textile industry, namely, weaving, dyeing and a railway station on Ahmedabad-Delhi metre printing, etc., were highly developed in this gauge line, is 16 miles away from Ahmedabad. State. The craft of block engraving supplied It is connected with Ahmedabad by State the tools for one of the most important bran­ Transport buses. Between Randheja and Petha­ ches of this large industry, namely, block pur regular State Transport buses ply 6 trips printing. It is no wonder, therefore, that the up and down. The village is connected with art of block engraving was specialised and Ahmedabad 40 miles away and Mansa 15 miles developed in Gujarat by the Suthar artisans of away by State Transport buses except in the the carpenter class. In a way, the craft ori· raInY season. ginally represented certain aspects of the ancient 1.4 According to 1961 Census count it has Indian culture depicting as it did religious and an area of 14,189 acres and 2 gunthas and a social themes typical of the contemporary civili­ population of 6,301 souls living in 1,448 house­ zation. Under modern influences this aspect holds occupying an equal number of census has changed with the adoption of modern motifs houses. The river Sabarmati flows at a distance and designs which would appeal to the present. of one mile. Most of the houses are pucca built day customers. The minute carving carried out with bricks and whitewashed and coloured. by skilled craftsmen pursuing this art has been Roofs are covered with tin-sheets or country the cause of admiration for their handiwork. tiles. Houses are constructed in rows according 1.2 Pethapur in Gujarat, Bombay in Maha. to various divisions of castes or communities. rashtra and Farukabad in Uttar Pradesh are A small water-works is constructed for water­ three important centres in India, which are supply. There are two big temples, viz., well-known for the making of engraved wooden Swaminarayan temple and Ramji Mandir. The blocks for use in textile hand printing, though grid scheme has electrified the village. There the craft was practised at various other centres are three educational institutions (kanyashala, all over the country. Among these three, Petha­ primary school and high school) and a Bal pur ranks first because of its unique workman. Mandir is run by a private agency. It has a ship in block engraving. post and telegraph office, Government dispen­ sary, 3 private dispensaries, a maternity borne LoOATION with 4 beds and a library, besides a cinema 1.3 Pethapur-The craft of block making theatre for recreation. There is a bobbin factory for printing purposes is at present pursued in which gives employment to 100 persons. Block Pethapur, Kalol and a few villages of north engraving (122 households), carpentry (20), Gujarat, Rajkot, Ahmedabad and Jetpur towns. tailoring (12), pottery (7), silver and gold The centres selected for this monograph are ornaments making (4), bamboo work(3},.dyeing SECTION I-INTRODUOTION

and printing including banahani (8), blacksmithy mart of the world' and merchants had their (3), paper-box making (I), hidi making (200) agents in distant countries of Asia, Asia Minor, and oil extracting by ghani (I) are the house­ North Africa and Europe. The satin, velvet, hold industries of this village. But the back­ mashru and kinkhah of Ahmedabad were very much bone of the village economy is agriculture in demand in the markets of Europe. The city which yields crops like cotton, hajri, groundnut was famous for brass-engraving, wood-engraving, and potatoes. Because of these crafts and agri­ paper-ma,king and other industries and crafts. culture, 5 cooperative societies (Bibavala Saha­ I ts commercial and industrial expansion came kari Mandali Ltd., Consumers' Cooperative to a standstill with the loss of enterprise and Society, Vividh Karyakari Sahakari Mandali, initiative half a century after the death of Potato Growers' Cooperative Society and Dyers Aurangzeb under successively weak rulers. and Printers' Cooperative Society) have been 1.7 The first spinning and weaving mill organised. started in 1861 worked successfully and spurred I.5 Pethapur was founded 1,000 years ago the innate business acumen of the people. In by a Vaghela Rajput. It was a very small 1906, there were in the city 33 mills, 52 in State consisting 0\ a few villages. It is situated 1910, 60 in 1926, 78 in 1933 and 81 in 1939. on the west bank bf the river Sabarmati, on The number of mills has subsequently dwindled 23 0 14' North latitude and 72 0 40' East longi­ to 63 on account of amalgamation and liqui~ tude. It was a popular centre for manufactur­ dation. Ahmedabad is rightly known as the ing muskets, razors and handhani saris. There is Manchester of India on account of its flouri. a legend that on the bank of the river, Sabar­ shing textile industry. In addition to the mill mati there was a village named Sukhda or sector there are in Ahmedabad many power­ Sokhda near Sukhadia or Sokhda Mahadev. A looms which produce cotton cloth. Vaghela Rajput who killed his maternal uncle 1.8 In old times, many craftsmen who Pruthuraj or Pithuraj and usurped his throne, engraved designs in wood had settled in Ahmeda­ once saw a dream advising him to establish a bad. The hand and machine printing industry of new capital in the name of Pruthuraj at a Ahmedabad in the' progress of which Gujaratil distance of one mile. He, therefore, founded played a very active role and in which there Pruthupur, now known as Pethapur, more than were many good hand printers even before the 1,000 years ago. Rajput and Bania comprising textile mills were 'started suffered a set-back 500 households were the main castes inhabiting it. when the machine-made printed fabrics of 1.6 Ahmedabad-Another centre selected England and Japan competed with them during for this monograph is Ahmedabad city having the British rule. But the hand printing industry a population of 1,149,918. It is situated on in Ahmedabad survived theonslaughtofmachine the bank of the river Sabaqnati on 23' l' printing, as the natural talent of the local hand North latitude and 72° 37' East longitude. printers proved to be very useful in machine It is a railway junction of the Western Railway printing which was later introduced by the with lines branching off in all directions. With .. textile mills of that metropolitan city. The in its limits, the city has four other railway Calice Mill was the first to introduce machine stations. On the bifurcation of the State of printed cloth and many of the other fine count Bombay, Ahmedabad has become the tempo· niills followed suit. About a dozen indepen­ rary capital of the Gujarat State since lst May, dent machine processing plants have been 1960 when the new State came into being. It installed at Ahmedabad by enterprising Chhipal, has been an important centre of industry and Bhavsars and others. This change over has' trade in Gujarat from very early times. During necessitated making of engraving copper rollers the Mogul regime, Ahmedabad had already for printing and Ahmedabad has made a good acquired fame not only as a very prosperous progress in this line also. Moreover, there are business centre but also as a manufacturing more than 500 hand printers still carrying on centre thriving on 'three threads', the cotton, their vocation of cloth printing with the aid of . the silken and the golden. It rose to be 'the blocks engraved in Pethapur and elsewhere. HISTORICAL BAOKGROUND OF mE ORAFT 5

1.9 Rajkot-The third centre Rajkot, with 1.13 Block engraving is a very old craft the a population 194,145, is situated on the origin of which is not known. It is laid that river Aji on 22' 18' North latitude and the idea of hand printing on cloth with en­ 70' 5' East longitude. It is an important graved wooden blocks originated from beautiful metre gauge railway junction in the centre of wood-carvings on buildings in Gujarat. Another Saurashtra peninsula, from which railway lines opinion is that during the time of the Mogul branch off to Wank~ner, Jamnagar and Gondal. empire, the craft was adopted from Iran and It is also a nerve-centre of State Road Tram­ concentrated in Sindh at Shikarpur from where port services in all directions, being on the it spread to Gujarat. National Highway No. B-B from Ahmedabad 1.14 The concentration of this craft in to Porbandar and State Highways from Rajkot Pethapur seems to be in conformity with the to Jamnagar and Bhavnagar. It has an aero­ general development of the area in respect of drome served by air services from Bomba.y, handicrafts. Patan in Mehsana district was for Jamnagar, Bhuj and Gandhidham. several centuries the capital of Gujarat till the I.tO It has been a marketing centre for a establishmen t of Ahmeda bad in the early 15th long time and has recently developed indus­ century. Prosperous towns like Sidhpur, Modhera, trially particularly in the field of small etc., grew up in the surrounding region and engineering works. It has a cotton textile mill, successive rulers interested in the well-being of oil-mills, a large flour-mill and numerous their subjects encouraged a number of arts and establishments of small engineering industries. crafts in the area. It is believed that one The first industrial estate in India was started group of artisans keeping alive the ancient in Rajkot and it has 110 sheds let out to tradition of this craft settled at Pethapur in the small industrial establishmen ts producing machi­ early 18th century, since - when Pethapur nery, spare parts, handpumps, barbed wire, contributed its quota of artisans engaged in this machine tools, diesel engines, wall-clocks, elec­ craft. This is the only developed centre having tric accessories, plastic articles and cotton yarn. craftsmen of block engraving in the Mehsana The Small Industries Service Institute and a district. With the advent of mills in big cities Prototype Centre producing machine tools pro­ like Ahmedabad, many of these skilled artisans vide valuable guidance and assistance to small who produced blocks of nice designs and also industries. In the field of handicrafts, Rajkot worked at printing migrated to these centres is well-known for its gold ornaments, silverwares but such migration has not deprived Pethapur and embroidery work. of all its craftsmen. Their skill in wood-engrav­ ing has sustained them in their village in spite HISTORICAL BACKGROUN'D OF THE CRAFT of the growing mill industry elsewhere. Out of 1.11 Hand printing on cloth against white 15 establishments of block engravers in Ahmeda­ background represents a simpler method of bad 50 years ago, only four of Suthar ca.ste colouring the cloth by means of vegetable dyes. survive today in Jamalpur and Khadia wards. Such printing though carried out by the same 1.15 The block engraving of Rajkot is in­ type of ve~etable dyes gave extra attraction timately connected with the block printing in­ and beauty to the cloth and also provided dustry of Rajkot and Jetpur. The craft has scope to the arti~~n to express forms altogether developed there during the last 15 to 20 years different from what was possible in simple and engaged four establishments in this work. dyeing. About 50 years ago in Vikram Samvat 1970, i.e., 1.12 Prior to the invention of wooden black 1914 A.D., only the following 4 establishments for taking impression on textiles for embroidery were engaged in block engraving at Pethapur. and for printing, doth was decorated with the (1) Shri Haribhai Gangaram; (2) Shri help of a brush. Popular hand painted textile. Atmaram Pocharam j (3) Shri Ranchhod Naran; were chhidri and covers of mattresses. This type (4) Shri Magan Nathu.· of painting was done on coarse cloth, used by These establishments working with 2 or S rural populations. family members each, employed in all 50 6 SECTION I-INTRODUCTION

artisans of Bhavsar, Luhar and Patidar castes in wooden blocks to the printers of Bhavsar com­ block making for the printing of textiles known munity at Pethapur and Vasna. Vohra mer­ as chhidri, bangala and sodagari print on coarse chants of Ahmecbibad wed to give cloth for cloth. The father of this craft was Tribhovan printing on piece-wages to artisans of these two Khushal, the great grandfather of Haribhai centres. Gradually the craft of dyeing and Gangaram. It is said that he first designed printing developed at Vasna, 4 miles away the block and started the sodagari print 150 from Pethapur on account of two clever agent. years ago. Sodagari is derived from sodagar and skilled dyers and printers, viz., Bhagwan meaning those engaged in the sale of valuable Parshottam and Govind Moti, but the blocks merchandise. The word sodagar was also used were obtained from Pethapur. in case of those engaged in trade other I.16 Karim Yaru and Chhotubhai Chhipa of than local or foreign. He used to export prin­ Ahmedabad contributed much to the development ted textiles to Siam through merchants of Surat, of this craft. On commercial basis, Atmaram Bombay and Ahmedabad.' Apart from the tra­ Pochalal and Maganlal Harchand of Pethapur ditional sadagari prints, he conceived the idea received the first order for block making from to prepare new designs of chint from British two dyeing factories of Bombay, viz., Bhupendra chintz in the markets and experimented on Dyeing and Bombay Dyeing respectively about those lines during spare time. Having succeeded 50 years ago. The craft saw rapid growth after in preparing blocks of a new type, he started the boycott of foreign goods during the national supplying them to the Chhipas or printers of movement of 1930 A.D. The colourful printing Ahmedabad. Chand Ali of Surat had started of khadi textile started then. similar type of printing after purcha5ing engra­ 1.17 Th ere are at present a bout 5ixty ved wooden blocks from Pethapur, employing families engaged in carpentry in Pethapur. artisans of Maskati Vohra community as dyer~ Previously they used to manufacture bullock and printers. He became so popular that he carts and wooden agricultu~al implements. Besides Was known as a king of sadagari prin ts in those developing block engraving work in Pethapur. days. One of the artisans of Maskati branch Haribhai Gangaram imparted training in this of Vohra community, Abdul Taiyab Ismailji handicraft to some other carpenters of the from Surat, established at Ahmedabad his firm village. The latter in turn opened their own of exports of printed textiles of Pethapur. Two workshops in which other carpenters trained other branches of Vohra community, viz., themselves and thus the craft was placed on a Vasi and Mogul also developed the export sound footing in Pethapur as all the trained trade. Tribhovan Khushal of Pethapur also carpenters had now their workshops in which exported printed textiles through these Vohra fresh apprentices learnt the work. Among the merchants. But because of loss in the trade of new-comers there were, besides carpentet8, Pati­ gur. he concentrated on making and supplying dars, Kumbhars and others. SECTION II CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN

gave a high rank to Vaishyas, followed by CASTE AND COM14UNITY Mewada, Gujjar and Pancholi. Vaishya and II.l MOST OF THE craftsmen working in this Mewada are reputed for minute carving, whereas craft at Pethapur are of Gujjar Suthar caste. the other two for building construction. The It is believed that they settled here 200 years former are likened to Brahmins while the latter ago and started working on independen t basis. to merchants. Vaishya and Mewada put on the It is said that due to the harassment of the sacred thread, but the remaining two are not former Pethapur State, after 1930 AD. the authorised to do so. In the past, they used to artisans migrated to Ahmedabad where they perform the sacred thread ceremony at Ellora settled in Jamalpur ward. But during the nearAurangabad, but now it is performed at the communal riots of 1941, they returned and time of marriage. Vaishyas do not interdine or settled in Pethapur. Originally the main intermarry with other divisions. occupation of these artisans was carpentry, i.e., building construction, making of carts, agricul­ MAUll AND SUBSIDIARY OCCUPATION tural implements, etc., which were of a seasonal II.3 The statement given below shows the nature. But block engraving provides employ­ approximate number of households of different ment for the whole year and fetches better castes engaged in the craft at Pethapur. returns than carpentry. Other reasons attributed to their settlement at Pethapur are (i) low cost STATEMENT I of living, (ii) low rent for workshop and resi­ dence and more living space, (iii) opening of Distribution of artisans by caste. Pethapul' new market at Bombay and Ahmedabad. Persons Families Worken of Gujjar Suthar caste are engaged in block engaged c':faged engraving and carpentry also at Vasna, Cute In the craft In ccraft Indroda, Randheja, Kolwada, Rupal, Unau, 2 S Sardhav and Mokhasan villages of Kalol taluka. Total 122 132 Other castes engaged in this craft for a long Suthar SO 4{) time are Bhavsar, Luhar and Patidar whereas Kumbbar 20 20 Thakarda, Muslim, Rajput, Prajapati (Kuin. Thakarda 2.5 25 bhar), Barot and Valand are new entrants. Patel 10 10 Muslim 10 10 ORIGIN OF SUTHAR CASTE Rajput 10 10 11.2 According to the legend about the Bhavsar 10 10 origin of the main caste of Suthar engaged in Luhar 4 4- this craft, Vishvakarma, the Architect of Gods, Valand 2 2 had four wives, one each from Gujarat, Mewad Barot and Panchal and the fourth was a prostitute. MIGRATION Their children were known as Gujjar, Mewada, Pancholi (Suthar and Luhar) and Vaishya IIA Only Suthars are traditionally connected respectively. As the Vaishyas were looked down with this craft, others are later entrants. upon by the other three brothers, Vishvakarma Except earlier entrants like Bhavsar, Luha.r a.nd

7 8 SEcnON n-CRArT AlII> ORAFTslmN

Patidar, the others joined this craft nearly 10 HnmD WOlUtERS years ago. Two Suthar families have migrated to Ahmedabad and are working in a textile II.a All but one family of block engravers mill. About 10 to 15 families have carried this in Pethapur employ hired workers in the pro­ craft to Ahmedabad and Rajkot and a similar duction of engraved blocks. There are 23 family number of families has changed over to screen members working in the craft against 65 hired making at Ahmedabad, Rajkot and Jetpur. workers, bringing the total of workers in the craft to 88. Among hired workers, there are SIZE AND STRUCTURE Thakarda, Muslim, Suiliar, Rajput, Luhar, II.5 From the statemen t given above it can be Kumbhar, Patidar, Barot and Valand. The seen that 132 workers belonging to 122 house­ four craftsmen in Ahmedabad have 3 hired holds are engaged in 25 establishments of block workers to assist them while in Rajkot besides making and 2 of Luhar make tools for the 2 adult males of the family 17 are hired craft. Family members working in the craft workers who are all Suthars. None of the hired generally draw and carve the required designs. workers in Pethapur, Ahmedabad and Rajkot supervise the work, give final touch to the carved are members of any cooperative society. blocks and also attend to sales. Hired workers RESIDENTIAL PATTERN do the work of cutting pieces of wood according to the size of block and grind them On stones. 11.9 Most of the establishments are located Those who are skilled workers trace designs in Sutharwad but a few of them are located in and also do engraving. Most of the establishments the bazar owing to the shortage of space in are run by the help of hired artisans. All the the house. Because of the minute nature of units get orders from dyeing and printing fac­ work involved, it is essential that the workilhop tories at Jetpur, Rajkot, Ahmedabad, etc. 2 to 5 should have good ventilation. All the p"cca Thakardas work on sawing big logs of sag or teak workshops are well-ventilated. The artisans wood (approx. 25 cubic ft.) into pieces of 3" shift their seats in the evening from the work­ on daily wages. Two Luhar households prepare shop to 010 or raised platform of the shop to punches and chisels and repair the tools used get more light. Most of the workshops except in the craft. three are on ground-floor and attached to the residence of the owners. FAMILY WORKERS 11.6 Out of 21 households surveyed in WORKING CONDITIONS Pethapur, 16 are of Suthars, 4 of Prajapatil 11.10 Of the 27 households covered by the and 1 of Patidar. All the 4 households i~ survey, 13 have their workshops in separate Ahmedabad and both the surveyed households rooms in the dwelling-house, while 3 have only in Rajkot are Suthar by caste and engaged in one room each which- is used as workshop­ block engraving, which is their main occupa­ cum-dwelling. The workshops of the remaining tion. As seen earlier the craftsmen at Pethapur establishments are not attached to their dwelling, still continue to work in this craft-Block but are less than a mile away from it. House­ engraving, though artisans from other centres holds having their workshops attached to the have migrated to Ahmedabad, where they dwelling number IS out of 21 in Pethapur, work at making designs and printing cloth. and one in Ahmedabad. 11.7 Twenty-one households concerned with II.11 As regards the tenurial status, the this handicraft at Pethapur have 23 adult males workshop is owned by 15 households and rented working at block engraving, Ahmedabad has 4 by the rest. The former include 12 households . adult males and Rajkot Neither females nor 2. of Suthar caste, two of Prajapati caste and one children are engaged in the handicraft. The of Patidar caste in Pethapur. All the Suthar average size of the household engaged in the families of Ahmedabad and Rajkot work in craft consists of 6 members, of whom one male rented workshops. Two families of Pethapur works in the craft and others are non-workers. and all the families of Ahmedabad and Rajkot WORKING CONDmONS 9 live in rented premises. The details of location, workshop'Gum·dwelling are given ill the state· meas ure men t and general description of the ment below.

STATEMENT D

General de.cription of work.hop located in the house

No. of Delc:riptioD oC households having hOUieholda No.oC workshops with residence having hOUieholds Total leparate having Location No. of workshops workahops 81. houaehold. away from with the Verano Front Rear Upper Other No. Centre Calte lurveyed relidenee hOUie dah portion portion portion portion 2 3 4 3 6 7 8 9 10 11

Total 27 11 16 6 3 3 5 1 Pethapur Suthar 16 4- 12 4 2 S S · Prajapati 4- 2 2 1 Patidar 2 Ahmedabad • Suthar 4- 3 3 Rajkot · Suthar 2 2

Description of households having workshops with residenc:e

Area (Iq. ft.) No. of rooms Light and ventilation 81. 51 to 101 to 151 to 201 to 251 and One Two No. Centre Caste 100 150 200 250 above room rooms Good Moderate

2 3 12 IS 14- 15 16 17 18 19 20 Total 4 4 2 5 1 3 13 14 2 Pethapur · Suthar 3 2 5 3 9 10 2 Prajapati 1 2 2 Patidar 1 2 Ahmedabad • Suthar S Rajkot • Sutbar - 1I.12 Three workshops at Pethapur and one 2 in moderate condition in respect of light and at Ahmedabad have an area of 51 to 100 ventilation. One such unit at Ahmedabad also square feet each whereas four others at Pethapur has good ventilation. have an area of 101 to 150 square feet. The space available to the remaining 8 units of II.l3 In block engraving, an artisan has to Pethapur ranges from 151 to over 251 square sit for more than 8 hours carving minute feet. Three households of Pethapur have one designs. He should, therefore l be a healthy man room but a majority of the units numbering 12 with good eyesight. Constipation, the result of from Pethapur and 1 from Ahmedabad occupy constant working and sedentary habits is the houses with two rooms. Out of a total of 16 general complaint of artisans. As the craftsman workplaces attached to the dwelling.house in has to engrave blocks by means of chisels and Pethapur, 13 units are in good condition and hammer, any defect in his hands, eyes and 0-2 10 SECTION I1-GRAPT AND CRAFTSMEN palms will be a serious hindrance to his work. LITERACY Minute carving affects eyesight and spectacles are to be used after working for a number of II.14 The following statement distributes all years in this craft. The palms become very the members of the surveyea households into hard as they are constantly used for pressing different educational standards according to chisels and punches. their age and sex.

STATEMENT m Literacy and educational status

Literate without any Age group Total Illiterate educational level Primary Secondary Matriculate Graduat. 1 2 3 4- 5 6 7 8 P.non. 154 50 38 52 11 2 t 0-14 69 33 13 22 15-34- 45 4 16 15 8 2 . 35-59 33 8 8 I4 2 60 and above 7 5 1 Ma/'I 76 21 10 32 11 1 1 0-14- 32 17 4- 10 I 15-34 22 3 10 8 35-59 J7 1 2 II 2 60 and above 5 3 1 l'l1lIalu 78 29 28 1O, 1 0-1+ 37 16 9 12 15-34· 23 4 13 5 55-59 16 7 6 3 60 and above 2 2

II.15 The rate of literacy is thus found to secondary but none of the females have reached be 67.53 per cent with 104 literates out of a that status. Whereas 32 males and 20 females total of 154 persons. The rate varies from 73.33 ha.ve received primary education, 10 males and per cent at Rajkot to 68.37 at Pethapur and 28 females can only read and write. 72.72 at Ahmedabad. Illiterates numbering 50 PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS constitute 32.4Z per cent of the population covered by the survey. Further classification shows II.16 The artisans are tempted to smoke that out of 76 males, 72.37 per cent are literate hitlis, and to take snuff and tea frequently for and27.63 per cent are illiterate as against 62.82 per relaxation. They visit drama and cinema shows cent literate and 37.18 per cent illiterate among at Pethapur, Kalal, Ahmedabad and Rajkot. females. One male aged 40 is a graduate living They are religious minded and visit temples at Pethapur. He is not able to work on account and mosques occasionally and attend bhqjan of paralysis whereas a matriculate of 21 who party or nama,t, They take interest in politics has passed First Year Science works in the and discuss current affairs in leisure hours. craft under study. One female matriculate of They celebrate festivals like Divali, Tulshi Vivah, Ahmedabad attends to household duties but is Shivratri, Gokul Ashtami, Makara Sankranti, not gainfully employed. Eleven males, i.e., one Muharram, etc. There is no special association in the age group 0-14, eight in the age group of the craft with any special deity, fair or 15-34 and 2 in 35-59 have taken education up w festival. SECTION III RAW MATERIALS

IILI THE CHIEF RAW material required for III.3 It is used for carpentry work of all making blocks is hard timber locally known as kinds such as carving, turning, etc., as also for sagi patti. Sag or Tectona grandis which is one of the making structural parts, bridges, ships, furniture, best timbers, is also known as Indian Oak. Sag cabinets, agricultural implements, railway keys is a large deciduous tree having a height of 21 and sleepers, transport vehicles, etc. Its root, to 30 metres and girth of 3.6 to 6 metres. It bark, wood, flowers and seeds have medicinal grows in the forests of Gir and Dangs in Gujarat. uses. The tree yields good oil, a substitute for It grows in abundance all along the slopes of the linseed oil in preparation of paints. The leaves Western Ghats, and also in other parts of the of the tree are eaten by cattle and are used as country, i.e., in North Kanara district of Mysore, plates, for wrapping parcels and thatching and Madhya Pradesh. In Gujarat it is found in houses. mixed deciduous forests. III.2 The colour of the sap-wood is golden 111.4 The timber is imported from the jungles yellow which turns brown, dark brown and of Umarp:'da and other places in Surat district finally almost black with age. The rings are through the agents and cooperative societies marked by one or more lines of regularly arranged formed by the forest workers which auction out pores, many ti\lles set in a belt of loose tissue large quantities of teak. The craftsmen of Petha­ but in the rest of the wood they are scattered, pur have formed a cooperative society which scanty, sometimes subdivided and variable in size deputes its representatives for the purchase of from small to moderate and a few large. This is wood. As many merchants from various places considered as most naturally durable wood as it take part in the auction, they have to face keen is strongly and characteristically scented and competition at the bidding when prices some­ contains an oil which has preservative chara­ times rise as high, Rs.18 per cubic foot of teak. cteristics. Because of its so many qualities When the teak purchased is not sufficiently combined in one, it is an all-purpose wood. seasoned the raw material has to be stored for This strong and hard wood has outstanding merit sometime before it can be made use of. The in retention of shape and durability. It is easily other materials required for block engraving are sawn and worked either by hand or on machine. chalk or khadi, tracing paper, copying and It is soft, easy to work on and specially suitable coloured pencils, etc., particulars of which are for doing fine work as' there are no fibres in it. given below.

STATEMENT IV Price of raw materials Price

Prescnt Past Si. (1964) (1937-38) No. Name of raw material Place from where procured Unit (In Rs.) (in Rs.) I 2 3 4 5 6 I Timber-Sagi patli' JankhWaV} Kewari Surat Cubic ft. 15 0.62 Kosamba district 0.75 Umarpada 2 Whitening chalk Local St. md. 4 to 6 1.0') 3 Tracing paper (Chinai paper; Elepbant Ahmedabad, Calcutta Quire 3 0.09 Brand; Bengal Paper Co.) • Press ink (Ganges Co.) Bombay, Ahmedabad 500 gms. 4 to 10 5 Copying pencil and coloured pencil (Scholar) Ahmedabad Dozen 3 (India) 0.75 12 (German) 2.25 'Purchased in loti 11 12 SECTION III-RAW MATERIALS

111.5 The transport charges on timber per the advantage of the cheap raw materiala. All wagon come to about Rs. 250. The financial year the raw rna terials described above are purchased for this trade ends on Ashvin Vad 10 (October). by the society and distributed at reasonable The amQunt due should be paid up before rates to its members. that date otherwise interest is charged at 6 per 111.6 The total annual consumption of cent. On cash payment, a rebate at 2, per cent is timber at Pethapur is valued at Rs. 30,000 given. A deputation of some of the members of purchased in the proportion of 50: 50 from the the cooperative society visits the market for the cooperative society and the opt'n market. The purpose of purchase of raw material. Members consumption of other raw materials for this and non-members alike purchase timber from centre amounts to Rs. 8,000. At present, the the society at Rs. IS per cubic foot. But the rate society meets the requiremehts of the members. of open market is Rs. 18 per cubic foot and III.7 The teak wood is purchased by the thus the artisan gets an advan tage of Rs. 3 artisans of Ahmedabad and Rajkot from the per cubic foot. The society has to accept some local markets on cash and credit basis along inferior quality of timber because it purchases with other raw materials. The price of teak in lots. It is now proposed by the members of wood varies from Rs. 15 to 20 per cubic foot. the cooperative society, that artisans who are It is not stored in sizeable quantities but pur.. not members of the society, should not be given chased by the artisans, as and when required. SECTION IV TOOLS AND TECHNIQ.UE

IV.l THE HANDICRAFT or block engraving are not available in the open ~rket at involves only manual labour and does not reasonable rates. They try to get import licence require the use of power in any form. The from the office of the Director of Industries, very nature of work involved in engraving Ahmedabad, through the agency of cooperative preclude the use of any modern devices, as all society with the help and guidance of the Registrar work is to be carried out by hand by means of Cooperative Societies, Ahmedabad. If such a of tiny iron chisels. Tools and different stages of licence is given, it will reduce the overall ex· technique of this craft are described below. penditure on tools. I. Tools IV.5 Total investment in tools and imple­ ments in this craft is Rs. 4,500 to 6,000 at TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS Pethapur, Rs. 1,600 to 2,000 at Ahmedabad IV.2 The skill of the craftsmen is aided and Rs. 2,000 to 3,000 at Rajkot. The esti­ by tiny tools and implements to create minute mated investment in tools and implements per and attractive designs on the blocks. The parti­ establishment at these centres is Rs. 214 to culars of tools and implemen ts used in this 285, Rs. 400 to 500 and Rs. 1,000 to 1,500 craft, are given in Table VI in Appendix. The respectively. The annual repairing charges and numbrr of tan/mas, punches and scrapers with replacement value per establishment are each craftsmen varies from 25 to 30 and the estimated at Rs. 150 to 200. aggregate cost of one set of tools ranges from II. Technique Rs. 100 to 130. Most of the tools used are made locally by blacksmiths in Pethapur, (i) SAWING OF TIMBER Ahmedabad and Rajkot. The shardi (drill) and IV.6 The thick sagi patli, i.e., big sag is kanas (file) of foreign make are also utilised in preferred for sawing, if it is adequately seasoned. Pethapur. Sometimes, timber with moisture is air seasoned IV.3 The saw is used in the initial stage for 12 months. It is not kept in the sun other­ for making suitable pieces of blocks from log wise it develops cracks and loses its hardness. of wood, while the plane is used for making Thick and hard timber, i.e., teak wood with the surface smooth and even. The drill is used close veins is selected for economy and durability. for making holes in the blocks, whereas the IV.7 Two artisans of Thakarda caste at chisel carves out minutest designs at the stroke Pethapur, and Suthar at other places cut big logs of the hammer. The file smoothens the block. into pieces 3" thick with a saw 4' in length. The vice and pincers are useful for holding Cracked edges and' gar or heart-wood which small pieces in position. No change has been are considered too soft are sawn off and avoided. made in the tools as none is called for in spite The electrically operated band-saw can be used of new and unprecedented designs now engraved to cut these pieces. But this technique i. ngt on the blocks. Gravers or chisels are made by re!lOtted to as the artisans believe that the heat the local blacksmiths from old files, supplied by of the machine damages the hardness and vein. the artisans charging Rs. 2 per dozen. A of wood. This uneven wooden piece is known wooden stand and a wooden gotilo or thapdi, i.e., as wadh. Its edges are then shaped by saw, a mallet are made by the artisans themselves. chisel and adze to give it oblong, square or IV.4 It is the opinion of the artisans that round shape. The piece thWl prepared for files made in Japan are more durable but they tracing, is known al kap/o. 13 14 'SECTION IV-TOOLS AND TECHNIQ.UE \

blocks with naili without heads or screWS after (ii) TRACINO OF DESIGN the block is ready. IV.S Two types of blocks are engraved IV.IO The pieces to be carved are placed from !apia, one is known as rekh or main block on a small wooden ghodi or stand measuring used for marking outlines, and the other as IS"xIS- for engraving the desired designs. The dalla or subsidiary blocks used for differen t portion to be etched out around the design is colours. The surface of the blocks is first removed with the help of a driI1 and chisels. levelled with ari or ~ar(}at, i.e., saw, and then To facilitate carving, holes l~" deep are first filed smooth, it process known as masarvu. Further drilled one adjacent to the other. Whereafter smoothness is obtained by grinding the surface the intermediate portion is taken out with the on ordinary rough stone a.fter pouring water belp of a chisel known as lhasa. This process with thin river-sand on a stone. Itattains golden of chiselling continue~ till the entire portion colour by grinding the piece of wood on a around traced design is carved out. Various polished stone. A thin layer of whitening chalk shaped chisels are used, viz., a flat chisel is mixed with gum and water is a pplied on the used to remove drilled portions, a nail shaped smooth surface to take 'the impression of the chisel is used for floral designs whereas design. The design drawn in different coloun geometrical designs are worked by chorasi. Mter on paper, is fixed on the surface of the block completing the carving of the block, a nail by small nails or chisel known as tichaniyu. shaped point, i.e., mokh is engraved on the With the help of flat or pointed chisels, the right corner of the block. The printers u~e this outline is impressed in the form of a short line as a guide point for putting the block properly or dots, so that the same design-paper is pre­ successively on the cloth for exact prin ting. served for further use in tracing the other Then the handle is carved in case of rekh and blocks. There are as many blocks as there are fixed in case of datlu as seen earlier. All the oolours in the design, so that, when all these four sides of the carved block are sloped to­ blocks are used, they produce a complete design wards the bottom. In certain blocks which in all the varied colours. have floral designs or close designs, holes are drilled from top to bottom for allowing air to pass (iii) ENGJ.AVINO while printing, so as to avoid spreading of IV.9 Once the design is thus traced on colour on the cloth. the smooth surface of the block, the work of IV.ll It is possible that after carving the engraving the block according to the design is upper layers of the seasoned timber, there may started with a large number of tillY iron chilel~. be moisture in the inner layers of the timber. It is here that the skill of the engraver is needed Moreover, since the carved blocks are to be most. In engraved blocks used for h~nd print­ dipped constantly in colours and water, the ing, the designs cut out at the top of the blocks are immersed in groundnut oil for a block, while in the rollers used in machine period of 2 to 3 days. This process averts printing the designs are brought out by ~mboss­ harmful effects of the atmosphere like bending, ing on the surface of the rollers. The first etc. block called reM which is considered as the IV.12 The reJ:h or main block for outline main or principal block, is regarded as parti­ and da'la or subsidiary blocks for other colours cularly important and its thickness is kept at are known as sat or a set. These blocks can 3". From this log of 3", a space of about Ii" be used for printing 500 to 600 saris, after is used as the carving field and the rest is which they become out of fashion and are used for carving out the handle or chhado. In thrown into the river. Sometimes they are kept case of other subsidiary blocks to be prepared for a while in the hope that the design will for different colours, the thickness is I!". The have a good market. Artisans preserve some handle or ehhado is chiselled out only from the blocks which are not worn out for further principal block or re"h, while a separate handle printing in future. The artisans never use of Ii" thickness is fixed on other subsidiary these old blocks as fuel as they consider them ENGRAVING 15 as the symbol of livelihood. Present-day technique an imals, freehand and geometrical designs, and processes have not changed from those in bandhani-keri, sag-keri, dhaka-palav, etc. All vogue in the past. No improvements have craftsmen keep a list of all the designs engraved been or can be devised for this handicraft by them on the blocks made by them, so that except in the designs to be engraved according the merchants or printing establishments who to the demands and taste of the modern times. indeut ,the blocks can quote the numbers In the past the blocks were made only for mentioned against each. printing three or four popular textiles like IV.l5 The most popular designs engraved ,Midri, bangala and sodagari. on blocks are geometrical and floral. There is IV.l3 Another method which is an alternative no legend behind these designs. But it can be to carving is also resorted to by the crafts­ stated in general that geometrical designs are men. This process involves fixing of copper, preferred by Muslims while Hindus go in for brass or steel wires or strips to form the design all sorts of floral designs and decorative motifs traced on the block. Such blocks used for like birds, animals, human figures, and deities. printing in one colour are generally termed IV.16 In block engraving, designs are fancy blocks by the artisans. In Bombay, for created by the artisans themselves, who draw the printing geometrical designs in a single them from their own insight and inspiration. colour, copper, brass and steel wires or strips Sometimes, they copy down foreign designs are fixed on the outline of the traced design with suitable alterations. The clever eye of the of the wooden block called rekh. This saveS the artisan fillds new designs from printed literature labour of carving the main block. After tracing and natural objects. Artisans send coloured the design on leapla, narrow grooves are carved designs to their customers, who order out blocks on the tracing with flat chisels in case of geo­ they approve or sometimes suggest required metrical designs, whereas small holes are bored improvements in the design. There is no restrict­ with a drill in case of dotted designs. Strips ion against ,dopting a particular design evolved by and wires are then fixed in the grooves or a particular family or section of the caste engaged dots as the case may be. But it is not possible in the craft. But there is a moral binding and to prepare datla or subsidiary blocks for multi­ cOllvention among the artis,ms not to copy the coloured designs for which the surface of designs made by another artisan or household. different blocks must be carved. Two households IV.17 In past only geometrical design in have adopted this new technique in Pethapur. the form of dots, crosses, etc., on white back­ In Saurashtra also blocks with circular floral ground and in the form of zigzag, simple, designs are made from hard steel strips for thick lines were used in the prints like ehhidri, single colour printing. These blocks are durable ballgala and sodagari. At present minute and because while cleaning they do not get damaged complicated geometrical and floral designs are by the brush as in the case of wooden blocks. employed for printing cotton and silk textiles They are in demand only by big dyeing and like khadi cloth, cotton tapestry, bed-sheets, printing factories where mass production is table cloth, mercerised cotton and silk saris. taken on hand. IV.IS In Gujarat and Maharashtra, artistic DB SIGNS AND DEOORATIVE MOTIFS wooden blocks which create pleasing patterns in IV.14 Skilled craftsmen engaged m block light colour scheme are mostly in use. The custo­ engraving devise their own de~igns which are mers from Madras prefer blocks which give light attractive and in great demand. These designs arc colour impression with scattered design but varied in number and have motifs of flowers, Bengali customers go in for blocks having clost creepers, dots, leaves, human figures, birds, designs with variegated colour effects. SECTION V FINISHED PRODUCTS

Vol THE ENGRAVED BLOCKS are in different No. of Portion of the textile Sile of the block blocks for which wed sizes ranging from 6" to 8" in length, I" to 7" 1 in breadth and 3" in thickness. Two to three 2 3 6" It 5.5" 5 Palav (Corner) artisans can engrave a block fetching Rs. 50 6.5" I 5.5" 3 Buti (Ground) to 125 in 2 to 3 days. 1.5" l[ 6" 4- Patto or mar (Border) Toaal 12 V.2 In the past, blocks of various sizes V.4 . The price of a block or set of blocks such as 3" x 5", 3" X 4", or 8.5" x 3.5" were made varies according to the number of blocks and for narrow or wide bOrder and for the field or designs. For obvious reasons, there cannot be ground portion of the textiles from single to any standardisation of the designs. Sometimes four colours. At present blocks for borders are a design may not be popular or take long to made in the size of 4" x 6". Larger blocks varying do so. The estimated production of blocks of in size for 6" x 6" to 7" x 12" are used in printing various sizes at Pethapur is valued at Rs. ground work, corners and colours range from 200,000. It is not possible to estimate the pro­ one to seven. The block of 6" x 6" are prepared duction in numbers owing to the variation in in the largest numbers. There is no change in n umber required according to the range of the thickness of the block hut the depth measures colours used. The engraved blocks are preserved 2/10" or less instead of 3/10" in former times. in racks or cup boards or covered with coarse cloth or gunny bags to protect them from dust V.3 About half a century ago, blocks sold and damage. On an average, each craftsman in sets of four called charkam buto, measuring makes engraved blocks valued at about Rs. 6,200 8.5" x 3.5" each used to be priced at about Rs.7 per annum out of which leaves him a net per piece, and varied from Rs. 28 to 40 per set profit of Rs. 1,600 after deducting the expen­ according to the nature of the design. But diture incurred on the purchase ofraw materials, nowadays a block of this size costs from Rs. 35 rent for hired premises, purchase and repairs to 55. The present price of a complete set to tools and other miscellaneous expenditure on comprising various pieces shown below is Rs. 150. account of correspondence, etc.

16 SECTION VI MARKETING

VI.lI.THE ENGRAVED· blocks·· are marketed exhibitions organised by the State or Institutions in all.the prominent hand .printing centres of like the All-India Handicrafts Board and won India. Most of the production of Pethapur is prizes for their excellent workmanship. consumed by Bombay only where more than 45 VI.3 Finished blocks are transported by establishments are also engaged in block railway parcel. But home delivery is effected engraving. The blocks made by the artisans of to near-by centres like Ahmedabad, Jetpur Rajkot and Ahmedabad fulfil the local needs and Rajkot. The articles are packed in wooden of the printers of those centres. Main centres chests prepared from the deodar boards of dis­ of marketing Pethapur blocks are Jetpur, Rajkot, carded packing cases of cigarettes, tea, etc., Jamnagar and Ahmedabad in Gujarat, Bombay costing Rs. 2 to 3 a piece in the local market. in Maharashtra, and khadi printing centres of The blocks and specimen· proofs of the designs Bengal, Madras and Uttar Pradesh (Meerut). are also kept in the chest. Waste paper or The blocks made accord with the taste aI_J.d wasted bidi leaves an;. packed in the chest to demand of the people and the printers. The avoid damage to these blocks. Approximate maximum use of engraved blocks is made by transport charges of 20 kilograms from Pethapur the hand printers of Rajkot, Jetpur, Ahmedabad to Bombay are Rs. 5 to 6. These charges are and Jamnagar in order. Most of the popular paid by the artisans. The rest of the charges centJ;es of hand printing are located in the and taxes at the destination are paid by the vicinity of a river or where there iii adequate purchaser. In case of urgency, blocks are sent facility for water as water is the most essential through the agency of angadiyas engaged in the requirement for the concentration of hand business of transport of goods. printing at a particular place. Other facton VI.4 The value of blocks engraved during influencing the development of this craft are one year in Pethapur, Rajkat and Ahmedabad availability of labour, raw materials and means is estimated at Rs. 200,000, Rs. 25,000 to of transport. The finished products-printed gO,OOO and Rs. 12,000 to 15,000 respectively. textiles-are sold all over India and abroad. The blocks are ·manufactured to orders placed VI.2 There is no middleman or cooperative by the party, and hence the sale can be said society for the sale of finished blocks to the to be on retail basis. The price of a block printers. The engraved blocks are sold by arti­ varies from Rs. 5 to 50 or Rs. 60 while that sans themselves to establishments engaged in of a set of blocks for a design varies from hand printing on credit. The amount is generally Rs. 50 to 200. The blocks are not exported paid by the party to the artisans within 30 abroad. days though sometimes the payment is delayed PROBLEMS OF MARKETING in case of regular customers. Summer and winter are the peak seasons for the sale of VI.5 Sardhav (7 miles from Kalol), Mokhasan blocks. Generally, there is no question of time (4 miles from Kalal) and Kalal in Kalol taluka, lag between production and sale because the Rajkot, Ahmedabad and Jetpur in Gujarat, blocks are made to orders placed Vvith the Bombay in Maharashtra and Farukabad in Uttar engravers by the printers and cloth merchants. Pradesh are the places which compete with No advance is claimed from regular customers. Pethapur in block making. But the unique The blocks engraved at Pethapur are of such a workmanship of Pethapur in the W1ique craft of high order that they have been displayed at block engraving establishes its first rank among 17 G-3 18 SECTION VI-MARl{ETINO

all the centres of India. The craft is not so far the printed cloth. Hand printed textiles look as affected much by the competition from modern if printed on both the sides, because the cloth and mechanised modes of printing. But the absorbs the colour. But this is not possible in artisans think that screen printing and roll print­ scree~ printing. Mter several washes, the hand ing in mills will in the long rlU1 deal a blow to prin ted textiles preserve the same depth of this craft. There is keen competition between colour do and durability which is not the case arthtic block printing. on a limited scale and with'screen printed fabrics, because of the use mechanical screen printing on a large scale. of indigo colours, whereas screen printed textiles However, for the reasons given below, the craft look dull owing to the use of naphthol colours has been able to hold its own till the present which also affect the texture. times. The customers get new designs because of hand printing. Different matching of colourl VI.6 All the artisans have their own regular from sari to sari is possible in block printing customers and so they do not have to worry which it not possible in screen printing. In much about marketing trends of the products of screen printing, the customers do not get palau. other centres. Because of neat and minute It is not pos~ible to cut game of the designs in carving of blocks at Pethapur, the customers screens. Moreover, a number of sari is printed are ready to pay high prices for them as against in screen prin ting at a time but in hand printing the low prices of the blocks engraved in other

I the artisan gets an inner satisfaction of his own centres. artistic creation after completing a sari. Screen VI.7 With a view to get exemption from printing involves a large capital investment and the levy of sales tax, the members of· the requires a spacious workshop, but hand printing cooperative societies at Pethapur have obtained does not present any such problems. Because of certificates from Akhil Bharat Khadi· Gramodyog the stroke or pressure of the palm given to the Board that the blocks are the products of block in hand printing, the colour passes through handicrafts. SECTION VII ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS

VIL1 THE CRAFTSMEN are able to finance them­ Rs. 20,000 and Rs. 5,000 respectively. An esta­ selves as sale money is realised expeditiously. blishment requires on an average Rs. 1,000 to They do not depend for loans on Government, 1,500 for the purchase of raw material, Rs. 200 cooperative societies, banks, money-lenders, to 300 for tools and implements and Rs. 1,000 traders or any other agency. In other words, cash on hand for payment to hired workers, etc. the craft calls more for skill and labour than COST OF PRODUCTION AND EARNIblGS money. The craftsmen invest their own capital in the craft. At Pethapur they get the raw material VII.3 It is very difficult to ascertain the cost at reasonable rates from the cooperative society. of production of individual blocks as the price VII.2 At Pethapur, Ahmedabad and Rajkot of the main and subsidiary blocks varies the fixed capital in vested in the form of work­ according to close or sparse nature of designs shops equipped with furniture and fixtures can engraved. However, a rough estimation is be estimated to be Rs. 70,000; Rs. 30,000 and attempted below for a single block and for a set Rs. 1,500 and circulating capital Rs. 150,000, of blQcks.

STATEMENT V

Cost of production and earnings

Expendi. Expendi- ture on tufe on subsidiary Price of Unpaid main raw raw the Average family No. of materials materials block earning wages man-days Size of the block liD. Rs.) (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in R.I.) required I 2 3 4 5 6 7 A. Single Blo&k 6" x 7"-1 block 5 0.50 12 6.50 4- B. Set ~f the 12 blocks 6" x 7"-5 blocks, 1.5" x 6"-4 blocks 50 1.50 150 98;50 H 11 6.5" x 5.5"-3 blocks

VII.4 The profiit per block can thll! be to 12 hours. For engraving of blocks, there is estimated to be Rs. 2 to 5. An apprentice get. no such season as peak and slack but the Rs. 10 per month whereas an unskilled worker artisans work for about 325 days in a year. All gets Re. 1 per day. The semi-skilled artisan the artisans find employment for the whole year. gets Rs. 2 to 2.50 and the skilled worker gets They observe important Hindu festivals as holi­ 'Rs. 4 to 4.25 daily. The artisan engaged in days which come to about 40 days in a year. sawing of wood earns a daily wage of Rs. 3 or The Suthar and Luhar artisans observe Magh Rs. 1.25 per cubic foot on piece-wage basis. Sud 13 as Vishvakarma Jayanti, the birthday of Only adult males work in the craft. The rates the Lord of their livelihood. In Pethapur and of wages are the same in all the seasons. Gene­ Ahmedabad, there is uniform work throughout rally all the artisans work for 8 to 10 hours the year, with 317 and 330 working days respect­ a day except family members who work for 11 ively and an average of S working hours per

19 20 SECTION VII-EcoNOMIq CHARACTERISTICS diem. In Rajkot the eight months from January ECONOMIC STATUs to May and October to December have 210 working days of 8 hours each and the -slack VII.5 The statement that follows show! the lea'on of the four months from June to distribution' of 27 households surveyed in the September has 105 working days of 4 hours present stu,dy into workers and nnn-workers by each. sex and age group.

STATEMENT VI

Workers by age group

Persons Males Females

In other rn other In other In the occupa- Non- In the occupa- Non- In the occupa- Non- Age group craft tion workers Total craft tion workers Total craft tion workers Total 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 -,:- 9 10 11 ~12 13

Grand Total 29 3 122 154 29 3 44 76 78 78 Below 15 69 69 32 32 37 37 15-34 14 2 29 45 14 2 6 22 23 23 35-59 14 18 33 14 2 17 16 16 60 and above 6 7 1 4 5 2 2 Pethapur-Total 2J 2 92 117 23 2 32 57 60 60 Below 15 51 51 23 23 28 28 15-34 14 1 23 38 14 4 1~ 19 19 35-59 9 1 13 23 9 2 12 11 11 60 and above 5 5 3 3 2 2 Akmtdabad-Total ~ 1 17 22 1: 1 6 11 11 11 Below 15 9 9 4 4 5 5 15-34 4 5 2 3 3 35-59 3 3 6 3 3 3 3 60 and above 1 2 1 2 Rajkot-Total 2 13 15 2 6 B 7 7 Below 15 9 9 5 5 4 4 15-34- 2 2 1 1 1 35-59 2 2 4 2 2 2 2 60 and above

vn.6 Out of 154 persons in 27 households 35-59 besides one aged over sixty years .till surveyed-2 of Rajkot, 21 of Pethapur and 4 working in the craft at Ahmedabad. of Ahmedabad-32 or 20.78 per cent 2Te VII.7 Two adult workers of Gujjar and workers and 122 or 79.22 per cent are non~ Prajapati castes, One each, are engaged solely in workers. It can be seen from the statement that agriculture at Pethapur whereas one man in minors as well as females are not engaged in Ahmedabad earns Rs. 80 per month as a weider this work requiring' special skill rather in a factory. None of them participates in making than only physical labour. Of 32 earners, 29 engraved blocks. or 90.62 per cent are engaged in block making as against 3 or 9.38 per cent in other occupa~ VII.8 The average income of the householda tions like agriculture and service in a factory. engaged in the craft at the three centres ranges 14 block engravers fall in the age group 15-34, from over Rs. 200 to more than Rs. 2,500 per and an equal number in the next age group year as shown in the subjoined statement. ECONOMIC STATUS 21

STATEMENT VII 70.33 per cent of the 27 households surveyed, the Distribution of surveyed households two ranges above and below claiming 4 house­ according to annual income holds each. In the highest bracket of more than Rs. Rs. 2,501, there are two households one each at No. of 2,501 Rs. RH. RH. RH. Rs. Rajkot and Ahmedabad and none at Pethapur I house- & 2,001-1,501-1,001· 501· 201- Centre holds above 2,500 2,000 1,500 1,000 500 the most reputed centre of the craft. Rajkot and 234 5 6 7 8 Ahmedabad has none of their famiIis in the Total 27 2 2 10 9 2 2 lowest income groups Rs. 1,000 and less. Petha­ Pethapur 21 8 8 2 2 pur having the largest number of artisans in the Ahmedabad of 2 1 craft has four out of 21 families in these groups. Rajkot 2 1 1 It is thus the only centre having some of its VII.9 A majority of the households falls in families in these groups and all the rest in the the income ranges Rs. 1,001 to 2,000 which claim middle income ranges. SEC'rrON VIII ORGANISATIONAL AND SOCIAL CHARACTERISTICS

VIII.l ALL THE ESTABLISHMENTS work indepen­ also received working capital of Rs. 33,523 and dently. Artisans work out designs and send them a loan of Rs. 1,000 from the Mehsana District to the customer for approval. At times the Cooperative Bank in 1965 at 2~ per cent interest customers also send their own designs which are on condition to repay the full amount in three worked after receiving the order. The artisans years. The net profits of the society ranged from keep specimens of various designs which are Rs.977 in 1958-59 to Rs. 1,461 in 1960-61, assigned different code numbers recorded in a while it incurred loss in 1957-58 and 1962-63 pucca book for future re(erence. as shown in Table VII in Appendix. VIII.2 In 1956,4 craftsmen of Pethapur had VIllA Like all tradition3.l crafts, the crafts­ formed themselves into an association with a men learn the craft hereditarily from their father view to purchase raw materials collectively and or elders without any formal training. Families to take up the problems facing the craft for which did not know the craft learnt, it in the redress by the Gram Panchayat, State Govern­ established workshops in the same village and ment, etc. Unfortunately it did not work due to once they acquired the requisite skill in the lack of cooperation of other artisans. But as a craft it was imparted to their progeny. The result of efforts of these craftsmm and officers craft is being practised in the same manner and of the cooperative department, a cooperative method and with the same kind of tools as in society was formed on 6th February, 1957 under the days of yore. New entrant of any caste or the name of 'Bibawala Cooperative Society Limi­ community can join an estc,blishmen t of engraving ted.' At present there are 24 members, of whom as an apprentice, who, at the age of 14 to }-8 . 19 are Suthar, 4 are Kumbhar and one is can easily grasp the technique of block engraving. Patidar. 8 artisans have not so far enrolled them­ An intelligent and educated man can become a selves as members. The society distributes raw skilled artisan within 5 to 7 years; otherwise material used in the craft to its members at 10 years are ordinarily required for training in reasonable rates and in required quantity. It the case of others. The knowledge of drawing attempts to obtain the import licence for Japa. is most essential in this craft. nese files which are of good quality. Sale of VIII.5 Besides a number of other crafts like finished products of the members is not possible lacquer work, other woodwork, moulding, tailoring, on a cooperation basis because the artisans leather work, etc., the Diamond Jubilee Cottage receive direct orders from their customers. The Industries Institution, Baroda, popularly called society is, however, reported to be ready to Kala Bhavan conducts a training course in block handle sales of finished products, ifneed be. engraving as a part of wood-carving. Artisans VIII.3 Though the area of operation of the generally wish their sons not to take up thil cooperative society which has its headquarters line who they wish should go in for technical at Pethapur includes the whole of Kalol taluka, lines like engineering and architecture. They block engravers of centres in that taluka at also wish that guidance and new designs should Sardhav, Rupal, Kalol, Mokhasan, etc., who also be given by the National Institute for Industrial use the same raw materials and make similar Design, Ahmedabad to sustain the craft which blocks have not yet come forward. to become faces keen competition and possible extinction members of the society in spite of repeated from mechanised processes. The Regional Design attempts to obtain their cooperation. The admission Development Centre of the All-India Handicrafts fee is Re. I and the value of each share is Rs. 10. Board at Bombay has offered some suggestions in The society sold 704 shares realising a total respect of designs to some of the units engaged amount of Rs. 7,040 from its members. It has in hand printing at Ahmedabad. 22 SECTION IX CONCLUSION

IX.l IN THE MODERN TIMES, it is no doubt (3) The blocks required oy the KhadiHats for' di~cult for the block engravers to prevent thdr printing khadi by the Akhil Bharat Khadi Gramo­ craft from being seriously jeopardised by the dyog Board and Government Training Schools variegated and multi-coloured designs of cloth and Institutions teaching printing should all be produced by mills with the help of machine purchased through the craftsmen's cooperative printing. Even so, the genius of these craftsmen society at Pethapur. in inventing new designs of popular choice hal IX.3 The handicraft of block engraving has helped them keep their handicraft going fairly been so far maintaining its own position in the well. The handicraft in Pethapur is not assisted face of competition from machine and screen financially by any cooperative societies or banks printing and kept itself going against heavy odds. or Government except that the timber required It requires to be aided in all possible ways, so by the craftsmen is purchased through cooperative that this age-old heritage which the artistic society formed by them. The craftsmen make traditions of Gujarat and India have so far their own arrangements for financing the craft, preserved may not become explicit. selling the finished products, obtainin g their IX.4 The future of the craft may no~ be tools, etc. No assistance is at present given to considered to be particularly bright. For after them by statutory boards like the All-India all, the continuance of an industry or craft will Handicrafts Board, the All-India Handloom in the final analysis depend on the popular Board or the Akhil Bharat Khadi Gramodyog demand for its products and the prices charged Board. for them. The survival of the craft of block engraving is thus dependent mainly on the popu­ IX.2 Durin g the course of survey, craftsmen larity of hand printed textiles which in turn of Pethapur represented that the following depends in a considerable measure on the assistance may be given to them: ingenuity of both the engraver and the printer (1) The income derived from this craft should in preparing attractive designs. The Government be exempted from Income-tax. and institutions like the Handloom Board, (2) As the cooperative society has to bid for Khadi Gramodyog Board, Handicrafts Board, teak wood in the auctions which take place in . etc., can doubtless render valuable help by way the Surat district, they have to pay high price. of guidance, financial assistance and popularisa­ for the raw material. Part of the teak purchased tion of the final products, but the ultimate in big lots is many a time of inferior and future of the craft will be finally determined by useless quality. Arrangements .hould, therefore, the winds of fashion blow. Fortunately for all be made with the Jungle Kamdar Cooperative traditional crafts a favourable climate has beell Societies in Surat district to supply good teak recen tly created through the efforts of varioUl to the society without inviting any tender or such organisation which have revived among the auction, at reasonable rates, so that the craft different sections of society a liking and demand may work IImoothly and without unnecessary for all traditional handicrafts because of their financial loss. a.rtiltic excellence and design••

23

PLATES

PLATE I

6

8 7 4 9 10 r- .- - i;- -:- __-= .. - •. -., 12

TOOLS: 1, r't'ooden strip; 2. Wooden club; 3. Dividers; 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Engravers; 11. File; 12. Steel riller

!

/

IMPLEMENTS: 1 and 2. Saw; 3 and 7. Drill; 4. Plane; 5. Screw driver; 6. Bow string; 8. File; 9. Hammer; 10. Chisel PLATE II

Tracing oj design on a wooden log PLATE III]

Engraving design on a wooden piece PLATE IV

Engradng rninute details PLATE V

. .1. '

"

I '1 ,1

-.--~

.~-~~ .f ~f>i

. • -

-. -- ... :

'_" '"_ .to .._._~\. ... :""'_' "_~_. 74..':'

Specimen designs oj the blocks PLATE V

. \ ' . r, .. ~

- I

·1 j

' .. ~ "r loi -~-,. ~ .. ..._ . - • ~ -l_ - ... ' ..-- 1 .,,~, ....•

Specimen designs oj the blocks

APPENDIX

G-4

APPENDIX

TABLE I

Number of persons employed in production in surveyed households

Family workers employed in production

Centre Persons Males Females 2 3 4 Total 29 29 Pethapur 23 23 Ahmedabad 4 4 Rajkot 2 2

TABLE n

Distribution of artisan communities

No. of families working in Total No. of adult Approximate family workers Workshops Name of caste No. of set up by Centre or community families Persons Males Females Own houses their employers 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Pethapur Gujjar Suthar 16 18 18 16 Prajapati 4 4 4 4- Patidar I Ahmedabad Gujjar Suthar 4 4 4 4 Rajkot Gujjar Suthar 2 2 2 2 Total 27 29 29 27

TABLE DI

Designs

No. of households engaged in manufacture indicating the sources from which they receive designs Name of designs Middlemen Coopera- who under- tive No. of surveyed No. of Tradi- Self- taken Design sales Other centres engaged centres tional designed marketing centres societies sources Name in its manufacture 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 3 3 24 Geometrical and free-hand Village and designs, flowers, squares, 2 Cities creepers, dots, leaves, human figures, animals, birds, bandhani-keri, sag­ keri, dhaka-palav, etc. 27 28 APPENDIX

TABLE IV List of very skilled craftsmen of each comlnunity

Centre Name of craft Name of community Names of skilled craftsmen 2 3 4 Pethapur Block Engraving Suthar (Hindu) Somnath Joitaram 2 Shanalal Vithaldas 3 Keshavlal Nan alaI 4 Chimanlal Nanalal 5 Maneklal Trikamlal

Ahmedabad Block Engraving Suthar (Hindu) Gordhandas Somnath Mistri 2 Atmaram Pochabhai Mistri 3 Damodardas Laljibhai Mistri 4 Babaldas Maganlal Mistri

Rajkot Block Engraving Suthar (Hindu) Somnath Chhaganlal Gurjar 2 Jethalal Chhaganlal Gurjar 3 Kantilal Maganlal Gurjar 4 Govindbhai Natharam Gurjar 5 Gangaram Kacharadas Gurjar

TABLE V Tool. and implements

Tools SI. Price Place of No. Local term English equivalent Unit (in Rs.) procurement Use Life 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Bhido Vice One piece 30 Ahmedabad, Rajkot Fixing 25 Years Shighro Vice 2 .. 20 .. " 10 Years 3 Vansalo Adze 10 Shaping " " 2 Years Ari/karvat Saw 4'; 1.5"; 35; 5; 5 Cutting 4 1.25" " " I Year 5 Farsi Chisel 7 " Shaping and 1 Year " cutting Pakad Pliers 4 Holding 6 " .. 5 Years 7 Randho Carpenter"s plane 12 Smoothening " " 2 Years 8 Dismis Screw driver ., 3 Fixing 5 Years 9 Kanas File 12"; 10"; 6" 20; 12; 6 Filing " " I Month 10 Tankanu Graver/chisel Do:zen 4 Local Engraving 6 Months Panch Punch 12 Punching 11 " " 6 Months 12 Shardi Wooden drill One piece 2 Ahmrdabad, Rajkot Boring I Year 13 Hathodi Hammer 4 Hammering 3 Years 14 Ghodi Wooden stand 5 " Local Supporting 2 Years Gotilo or thapdi Mallet 15 " Hammering I Year APPENDIX 29

TABLE VI

Composition of workers

Total No. of persons employed in production Total No. of households No. of households Total No. Total No. of Main caste/tribe of engaged in engaging other of family other hired other hired workers Centre the craft hired workers members workers Total as shown in col. 5 2 3 4 5 6 7 Total 27 24 29 8S 114 Thakarda, Luhar, Barot, Rajput, Muslim, Suthar, Vora, Vaghela, Prajapati, Patel and Valand.

Pethapur 21 20 23 65 88 Thakarda, Luhar, Barot, Rajput, Muslim, Suthar, Vora, Vaghela, Prajapati, Patel and Valand

Ahmedabad. 4 2 4 3 7 Gujjar Suthar

Rajkot 2 2 2 17 19 Gujjar Suthar

TABLE VII

Working of the cooperative society

No. of members of Share Reserve Other Bank Sale of raw Net profit (+) Rate of cooperative capital fund funds loans material or 10sl(-) dividend Year society (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in RI.) (in Rs.) (per cent) 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1957-58 12 1,560 12 7,000 115 4!l5

1958-59 18 3,160 18 12,083 + 977 5.00

1959-00 18 3,260 194 192 10,000 10,401 +1,272 6.25

1960-61 23 4,790 695 625 10,758 +1,461 6.25

1961-62 24 5,210 1,859 1,501 10,991 +1,447 5.50

1962-63 21 5,990 1,862 1,370 8,766 -1,306

1963-64 21 6,460 1,862 1,416 10,000 9,980 +1,200 3.75

2. BLOCK AND SCREEN PRINTING AT JETPUR

SECTION I INTRODUCTION

1.2 Regarding calico prmtmg in India R. INTRODUCTION Ptister said "The secret of cotton dyeing, which 1.1 THE SKILL OF THE Indian dyer and printer was the basis of printing processes, was very is well recognised throughout the world since slow in spreading beyond the bounds of India. ages. This land produced many raw materials •... India has, since very remote times, for creating a wide variety of stable and fast enjoyed a monopoly of cotton, and in particular colours. The early Indian dyer turned to these of printed cotton goods ... It is not surprising, resources which nature had bestowed and pro­ therefore, that the Egyptian earth holds printed duced dyes from them till the recent past. Now fabrics from India."2 At a lecture delivered in this art is nearly forgotten and rarely found in 1938 at the Burlington house given under the remote villages. The use of the indigenous dyes auspices of the India Society and the Warburg is mostly replaced by foreign syn thetic dyes Institute he observed "Whenever Indian painted which are not always as stable or fast as many or printed calicoes are mentioned, our thoughts of the indigenous products. Readily available in turn first of all to the splendid panels of the a greater range of hues, tints and shades, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries which synthetic dyes are easier to use, whereas the pro­ made the fortune of the various India companies duction of indigenous colours is time-consuming importing them into Europe."3 and laborious. The art of ornamenting fabrics 1.3 Gujarat has been famous for its handi­ with the application of dye-stuffs or pigment is crafts, especially dyeing and printing, since known in India from the earliest times. Coloured ancient times. Since before the beginning of fragments of cloth and traces of madder dye the Christian Era up to the rise of the British found at Mohenjo-daro and Harappa would power in India, textiles from Gujarat had lead us to believe that the mordant process of popular markets all over the known world. dyeing cloth was known in India five thousand Different branches of silk and cotton textile indus­ years ago. try, namely, dyeing and printing, weaving, brocade, "The Indian arts of printing and etc., were highly developed in this marine State. dyeing have been greatly celebrated and The following extract gives an interesting account the beauty and brilliance as well as the of the art of cloth printing in Gujarat. durability of the colours is worthy of parti­ "The earliest specimen of Indian resist­ cular praise. The early esteem in which dyed cloth dates back to the 8th cen tury. Indian fabrics were held in Europe is It is a fragment of resist-dyed cotton cloth, evidented by the Oriental names ofmany with a floral motif discovered by Aural Indian goods being applied to English Stein in Central Asia. Fragments of block­ imitations. In the management of colours, printed silk have also been found by Stein the skill with which a number of varying at some of the Central Asian cities. Innu­ hues are employed and the taste with merable fragments of resist-dyed cloths which they are harmonised, whether in have been discovered from tombs at Fostat cottons Or carpets, silka or shawls, Europe in Egypt. The earliest specimens date has nothing to teach India and a great back to the 12th century. An analysis of deal to learn."! the indigo dye and the treatment of

1. JAMILA BRIJ BHUSHAN, The Costumes and Textiles of India, p. 56, 1958 2. MEHTA, RUSTOM J., The Handicrafts and Industrial Arb of India, p. 120, 1960 3. Ibid., p. 119

G-5 34 SECTION I-INTRODUCTION

decorative motifs in these Fostat fabrics of printed cottons, which were exported has led to the belief that the origin of these to other parts of the world. He also states resist cloths was Gujerat. A study of these that Siam and China both imported woven fragments is fascinating, revealing as it materials from these places."2 does a highly developed sense of colour 1.5 It will be seen from above quotations and design. Many of the motifs found on that various modes' of printing had developed the Fostat cloths are identical with similar in Gujarat. These were block printing, resist motifs in use to-day. When we compare printing, ragan printing, batick, brush work, and the Fostat fragments with the costumes de and dye using various methods and colours of the same period worn by men and and processes of development covering the women, as revealed in the Jain ·miniature modern method of screen printing in a variety of paintings of Gujerat, we find the same shades, lines and designs. Of all these processes amazingly rich treatment of design and a those which command extensive market are unique arrangement ~f the design on the screen and block printing. cloth. Dr. Moti Chan'dra in his book on 1.6 A rich heritage of designs and colouring in Jain painting hali dealt in some detail on Saurashtra and Gujarat is evident from the the varied treatment of designs on the following. cloths as shown in these Jain miniatures.'" "An examination of the Jain manu­ Innumerable fragments of block printed silk scripts of the 15th cen tury will give a hint as well as resist-dyed cloth from tombs at Fostat of the variety of designs and richness of in Egypt and other places in Central Asia reveal colouring of the printed cottons of Gujarat l\ striking resemblance to the clothes, worn till and Kathiawar. In those early days, Gujarat recently in more remote villages of Gujarat and was the centre of the cotton printing indus­ Rajputana. try and through its port of Broach on the 1.4 The richness of the calico printing of river Narbadda, eXP9rted many a fine Gujarat can be seen from the following. specimen to the far Corners of the world as "The well-known authority, G.B. Baker mentioned by Duarte Barbosa. Even today, has also recorded that printed or patterned among the women of Kathiawar, the cottons were a speciality of India. Another cotton printed sari known as the kausamba proof of the ancient heritage of this craft holds pride of place in a bride's wardrobe, is to be found in many chapters of The together with the palata and the bandhani. Periplus of the Erythraean Sea written some­ The designs of these bridal saris consist of time towards the first century. A.D. Its parrots and dolls, in white, yellow and author refers to the export of cotton goods green. But during periods of mourning, from the coast of Coromandel and from printed saris in black relieved in red and Barygaza in the Gulf of Cambay. white or in dark red with white relief and In a detailed Chinese account written with flowered pallavs are used and these at the beginning of the fifteenth century constitute some of the most beautiful of and describing the voyages of Cheng-Ho the printed cotton textiles of Gujarat. and his retinue, there are many references Both in Gujarat and Kathiawar the to imports of printed cottons from Calicut, wa or resist printing is used with block with special mention of the fastness of the stamping, ·and brush work may also be dyes used. Again, Duarte Barbosa, who in resorted to, especially in the making of the sixteenth century spent a few years beautifully printed and painted pishvis or in India in the service of the Portu­ temple curtains. Unfortunately, these days guese Government, has stated that Cambay artificial aniline dyes have replaced the (Khambat) and Paleacate on the Coro­ old indigenous vegetable products and mande! Coast produced largt; quantities therefore it is not surprising that the dyed

1. Indialt Printed Textilel, All India Handicraf'ts Board, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, p. 6 2. MEwl-A, RU8TOM J., The Handicrafts and Industrial Arts of India, p. 119, 1960 . BLOCK PRINTING 35

and printed textiles of today lack the soft 17 The art of dyeing and printing was spe­ tones and dignified effects of the past. cialised and developed in Gujarat by the 'Chhipa' The use of wooden blocks for the actual artisans. The craft which was well-known for, its printing has been current in Gujarat since tmique beauty and workmanship had behind it the 18th century. Nowadays, after printing the experience of generations no longer retained with the resist, the fabric is dyed for the that excellence and suffered in popularity after ground colour. This may be done either by the advent of the machine age and the intro­ brushing the dye on to the cloth uniformly, duction of cheap machine printed cloth imported or differently coloured panels formed by from England. The artisans have mostly forgotten the use of a flannel mop. Thus the pat­ the method of preparing vegetable dyes, the tern shows in white on a coloured ground. raw materials for which Nature has bestowed In Sind, faded and pale colours are prefer­ in abundant measure. Though loosing ground red, mostly lemon yellow, orange, red with changes in fashion and preference~ for and green, but all in dull shades, these machine-made goods the crafts has survived being more representative of the old craft and been able to hold its own due to the then bright tones. In Baroda, the colouTi traditional dressing habits prevailing in various popular are a dark green and blue-black, communities. the designs being minute, but with the borders and end-pieces of the saris strik­ BLOCK PRINTING ingly distinct in colour. In Gujarat and 1.8 As seen earlier the art of block print­ Kathiawar, flowers, birds, animals, and ing is said to have originated in· India and human figures are common motifs of the de­ China where the practice of printin g with wooden signs, but are never used in profusion. They blocks had come into vogue since earliest times. include horses and elephant~, parrots, pea­ There are also records of some very interesting cocks and geese, and the (doll) the putli examples of patterned cloth which is believed latter being a popular motif of all Gujara t to have been produced by some method of dyed fabrics. hand printing. Among the more specialised forms may "Wood-block printing came into use be mentioned the striped lahiria cloth of in China long after this more primitive Ahmedabad, in red, blue or green, mostly mode, and the first record of its employ­ in two-colour combinations. In Kutch, really ment there is said to have been in 593 beautiful black saris are produced with a A.D., when the Emperor Wen.ti is supposed floral motif, but the paUav or end-piece is to have ordered certain texts and rules more variegated with parrots and elephan ts, engraved on wood in order that they might and the inevitable putli. be printed for distribution. No wonder the printed cottom of It was wood-block prin ting also which Gujarat and Kathiawar were so famous became the important medium in spreading and even today retain a certain popularity. the knowledge of Buddhism in Japan, and As Pupul Jayakar says, the effect of the the earliest existing examples of the art, inverted treatment of colour of the Gujerat so far as known, are four dharani from the and Kathiawar printed cloths with their Buddhist Sutras or(hed to be prin ted by dark backgrounds, green or chocolate, deep the Japanese Empress Koken, in Tempyo red or black with the design in relief in Hoji 8, or 764 A.D., the year in which, red or white, is like carving in red san'd­ after having been obliged to give up her stone or wood, bearing the impress of Guje­ cherished dream of spending the rest of her rat architecture and her famous bandhana life in a convent when she retired from the fabrics." I throne in 758, she again took up the reins

}. MEHTA, RUSTOMJ., The Handicrafts and Industrial 4rl$ of Indill, pp. 123-124, 19(iO 36 SECTION I-INTRODUOTION

of Government and returned to the palace Swami was installed as Acharya the head. Four under the name of Shotoku."l miles from Jetpur and 1; miles from Jetpur railway station is situated the temple of Bhid. LOCA'I'JON . bhanjan Mahadev in the midst of beautiful 1.9 The craft of dyeing and printing is at surroundings which is also a picnic spot. A 'lok­ present practised in various towns and villages all mela' started in 1957 by the Block Development over Gujarat. Some of the well-known centres authoritie~ , is held at Jetpur. on Shravan Vad 7, of calico printing are Jetpur, Rajkot, Ahmeda­ Band 9 (August), wherein 30,000 to 35,000 bad, Anju, Bhuj, Deesa, Vadnagar, Kaira, people participate. Gandevi and Jamnagar. A brief account of the art I.IS Jetpur was originally under the control as practised at Jetpur a well·known centre of of a Ba10ch family, near relatives of Junagadh calico printing in Rajkot district is given in this Nawab. Arab and Kathi soldiers were employed monograph. for its protection. Kathi soldiers became ulti. mately powerful and conquered Jetpur and other ]ETPUR villages of Jamnagar, Rajkot and Bhavnagar 1.10 Jetpur is ivdl.known for dyeing and States. But this Kathi St

1. LomsE NORTON BROWN. Block Printing and B.o" Illustrative in Japan, p. 4, 1924 SECTION II CRAFT AND CRAFTSMEN

castes and tribes. In Dharwar, the TRADITIONAL ARTISANS tradition regarding their origjn iss that ILl As THE TRADITION holds a powerful sway in they are the descendants of seven sage~ India, the various crafts are pursued hereditarily Bharadwaja, Jamadgni, Kashyap, Katyay an , by different occupational castes. The Suthar works Valmik, Vashishtha and Vishwamitra. on carpentry, a Soni or goldsmith on precious The Poona, Nasik and Ahmednagar metals and jewellery, a Kumbhar or potter makes Khatris relate that in order to avoid clay utensilsand so on. Calico printing is essen­ being slain by Parashuram, they were tially a craft pursued by Khatris, Bhavsars and told by the Goddess Hinglaj to assume the Chhipas. The artisans are scattered throughout name of Khatris and to take to weaving. the State and found everywhere in villages, The Nasik Khatris further state that their towns and cities. Being a traditional craft, it is original ancestor Was Kartavirya. There handed down from father to son. The artisan, is a tradition in Ahmednagar to the effect therefore, acquires requisite skj1l while working that they formerly lived in Sahasrarjuna and z.ssisting in the family craft since childhood. in Mundugad, the old capital of Malwa. In course of time persons belonging to other caste The Sholapur Khatris state that they came have also taken up this industry, but they are there about a hundred years ago from few and far between. A brief ethnographic Cheu} in Kolaba. The Khandesh Ksha­ account of Khatri and Chhipa is narrated tris claim Sahasrarjun to be their common below. ancestor. The Gujarat Khatris say that they came into Gujarat from Sind in the KHATRI sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, tempted "Khatris or weav~rs, ...... are found by the strong European demand for their all over the Presidency. They call them­ cloth. selves Kshatris or Kshatriyas and claim a Khatris are hereditary silk and cotton Kshatriya origin, those in Gujarat claiming weavers. They weave women's robes, to be Brahma Kshatris. As a rule they are waist-cloths, shoulder-cloths and bodice­ tall and fair and they wear the sacred cloths. Besides weaving they string on wire thread. Like the Brahma Kshatris, their or thread gems and pearls, make fringes, favourite objects of worship are Devis or threads for necklaces, tassels, netted work, goddesses, and even in the south of the and hand and waist ornaments. Their Presidency their home tongue is inter­ industry has been much crippled since the spersed.with many Hindustani words. Th€se introduction of machine-made piece-goods. facts would seem to suggest that they The social organisation of the caste originally belonged to the great Kshatri is very intricate. It cannot be said with race of the Punjab, but the custom of certainty how many endo~amous divi~ions widow marriage which / obtains £lmongst they have. Broadly speaking, they may be them, and their ceremonies which closely said to consist of the following groups: resemble those of Kunbis in the Deccan, (i) Brahma Khatri, (ii) Gujarati, (iii)Istari, of Smart Deshasth Brahmans in the (iv) Kapur Khatri,(v) Karnatak, (vi) Kayat, Karnatak and of Vanias in 9ujarat, would (vii) Maratha, (viii)Sahasrarjuna, (ix)Surti, suggest some admixture at least of local (x) Somavanshi. (xi) Suryavanshi. 38 !!EOTION II-CRAFT AND CRAFTS :MEN

The above divisions neither eat toge­ Shaiva, Swaminarayan and Vallabhacharya sects. ther nor intermarry. The Marathas, Gujara­ The Shravaks contain members of the Svetam­ tis, Surtis and KarI1ataks are of the terri­ bar, Digambar and Dhondia sects. Their family torial type. The Somavanshis claim descent. Goddesses are A~baji and Hinglaj. from soma the moon, the Suryavanshis from DEVELOPMENT OF BLOCK PRINTING surya the sun, and the Saha5rarjunas from a mythological hero of that name. Brahma II.3 Jetpur, has since long gained popularity Khatris are an offshoot of the Khatris, as a chief trading centre in cloth. Before claimillg a superior status or they repre­ Independence, it was a small Kathi State wherein sent the Brahma Khatris proper. The origin no duty was levied in the State on the cloth of the other divisions is unknown. imported into Jetpur. This concession made it The above divisions are described below profitable for the traders of Jetpur to import under Maratha, Gujarati and Karnatak cloth from Japan and other western countries Khatris. Gujerati Khatris are Vaishnavas and sell it in other' parts of the country. This by religion, but ~ost of them prefer the important advantage in the form of relief from worship of Devi, especially of Hinglaj Mata. taxation worked as an impetus to commercial Except that they allow widow marricge, development of the town which became a famous their customs differ little from those of and important centre of trade in textiles. It is Vanias. They live, as a rule, on vegetable reported that in past cloth merchants of Jetpur food, but many in south Gujarat eat flesh had brought cloth from Japan by chartered stea­ and drink liquor to exceS5."1 mers. Bosky and Satin-duck imported at Jetpur from Japan had acquired a market all over India CHHIPA at one time. II.2 As stated above, other persons engaged II.4 Dyeing of cloth developed and progres­ in this industry belong to the HiLdu caste of sed pari passu with expansion of trade in textiles, Chhipa which has migrated from Rajasthan. In a proce~s which was; further encouraged by Gujarat Bhavsars are also known as 'Chhipa' or certain chemical properties of the water of the 'Chhapgar' a term which applies equally to both Bhadar lon' the banks of which Jetpur is situated. Hindus and Mohammedans practising this craft. Since last two to three centuries Brahmakshatri­ Gujarati Bhavsars are divided into Hindu, yas, Muslim Khatris, Gar~tla, Bhavsar and Vanza Jain and Musdman. They neither eat together communities have been engaged in the dyeing nor intermarry. Some appear once to have been at Jetpur. Before the introduction of Naphthol Ba.nias but most claim to be of Kshatriya des­ dyes, vegetable dyes obtained from harda cent and have Rajput surnames such a.s Chohan, (Terminalia chebula) , majith (Rubia tinctorun) , Gohil, Parmar and Rathod. Like Kanbis, baheda (Terminalia bellirica), etc., were in general Bhavsars are almost certainly of Gurjar origin. USe. The most popular items were odhanis and According to legend about their origin, during saris of Charni style, Rabari style and those WOrn Parshuram's persecution of the Kshatriyas, their by other rural communities. Deshi odhani, dodhia ancestors hid themselves in a Mata's temple, and sadla, and bepoto sadla dyed at Jetpur commenced for this act of trust and confidence, i.e., bhav a market all over Saurashtra and Gujarat. The which they placed in the goddess they came to famous designs which were in demand in various be known as Bhavsar. parts of the country were hathikor (elephant Marriages cannot take place within ten to border), safed hathikor (white elephant border), twenty degrees from the common ancestor. Mar­ !ali hathikor (black elephant border) and sathia riage with a maternal uncle's or mother's sister's (swastik) kaT printed with locally manufactured daughter is not permitted. Widow remarriage is blocks by wax and clay resist methods. practised. About 50 years ago nearly; 100 artisans were Hindu Bhavsars belong to ~abirpanthi, Radha engaged in the craft. Since 1940, block printing Vallabhi,Ramanandi, Rama:nuj, Santrampanthi, developed progressively, as the craft got a

1. ENTHOVEN,R. E., Tlu Tribes and Castes of Bombay, Vol. II, pp., 205-207, 1922 SCREEN PRINTING 39 considerable impetus during the Second World There are 5 to 10 establishments dealing in War. colours and chemicals and about 50 cloth mer­ Following units were engaged in block print­ chants supply cloth for printing on piece-wage ing in 1944. basis. This industry thus gives employment to about 5,000 persons through about 200 estab­ SI. Name of 81. Name of No. establishment No. establishment lishments engaged in various branches connect­ 1 Tribhovan Dharamshi 6 Jagjivanbhai Padiya ed with it. The workers in the craft belong 2 Girdharlal Devshi 7 Dulabhdas Devchand to various communities like Khatri, Muslim, 3 Nathabhai Vithal 8 Devchand Narsinh Patel, Koli, Khant, etc., whereas the ovmers of 4 Samjibhai Devkaran 9 Samji Deviji the establishments mainly belong to Brahma­ 5 Jinabhai Dhanjibhai 10 Jagadish Dyeing kshatriya, Patel, Luhana and Bania castes. Formerly blocks engraved at Jetpur were used SURVEYED HOUSEHOLDS in block printing, but blocks made at Pethapur were introduced and mostly in use after the year II. 7 In all, six households were surveyed for 1940. Panetar, bandhani prints, palav butti, palav the study of block printing at Jetpur; five be­ skirt, were some of the designs which found longing to Brahmakshatriya and one to Kumbhar favour in the initial stages of introduction of caste. They comprise 46 members with an Pethapur blocks. equal number of males and females. The aver· age size of the family comes to 7.7 members. DEVELOPMENT Ol\' SCREEN PRUnING The total workers of these households engaged II.5 It has a large number of establishments in th(( industry number 16 or 34.78 per cent-14 engaged in screen printing which was first males and 2 females. The average earner per introduced in 1947-48 by Shri Nathabhai Vithal­ family engaged in the craft is 2.7 while non. bhai, J. P. Textile Dyeing and Printing Works, earners are 5. Six of the workers are engaged in al).d during 1949-50 by Shri Gordhandas Kar­ the traditional craft of block printing, while 10 in , sanji Bosamiya who started Jagdhh Textile Dye- screen printing. Besides family workers there are ing and Printing Works and developed the hired workers numbering 15 engaged by them. industry further. Gradually other merchants of 11.8 Besides block printing, the survey has Brahmakshatriya caste from Amreli, Mahuva, also covered 15 households engaged in screen Keshod and Bagasara, shifted to Jetpur. printing. Of these, 6 are Brahmakshatriya, 5 are II.6 Since the first screen printing establish­ Muslim and 4 other Hindus. They comprise ment started in 1947-48, the craft has showed 160 members-90 males and 70 females-giving a continuous and rapid growth. At present there an average of 11 members per family. The are 115 establishments working in the calico family workers looking after the industry by printing registered under the Shops and Estab. way of general supervision and control in this lishments Act applied by the municipality. Of industry number 34 or 21.25 per cent of the these 115 units, only a few are engaged in block total. Besides family workers 135 hired workers printing, and the rest in screen printing. About are also engaged in the industry. Statement I 20 establishments are also registered under the gives distribution of the number of house­ Factory Act. As screen printing requires screens holds of different castes of Jetpur. as a basic equipment the ancillary industry of MIGRATION screen making has also developed here. At pre­ sent about 8 to 10 establishments are engaged 11.9 Of the 5 Brahmakshatriya households in making screen frames, and 15 to 20 in screen engaged in block printing, 4 have migrated making. There are 3 independent units engaged from Pakistan after partition of India ~nd in finishing and folding of saris the finished goods. started this industry, and one has Come from About 60 to 80 households supply water to these Vasavad, a village. of Rajkot district before establishments through bullock drawn carts. 20 years, where they pursued the same craft. Traders and merchants dealing in raw materials, The household of Kumbhar' caste has started finished products have also grown in number. the craft 15 years ago. 4-0 liBaTION U-CRAPT AND CRAFTSMEN

STATEMENT I LITP:RACY Households by caste Percentare Total n.lO Of the 46 members in six households No. of to total Total workers engaged in block printing, 43.48 per cent are house­ house- popu- engaged Religion and caste holds holds lati on in craft literates and 56.52 per cent illiterate. Of 20 1 2 3 4 5 literates, 19 have received primary education A-BLOCK PlUNTlNG and only one has studied up to secondary level, Hindu and none is above it. Among males 12 are illite­ Brahmakshatriya 5 83.33 40 l~ Kumbhar 1 16.67 6 2 rate, 1 ia literate without educational standard, Total 6 100.00 046 16 9 have taken primary education and only one B-SCREI!:N PRINTING - , has studied up to secondary level. Fr,om 23 Hinau females, 14 are illiterate, 2 are literate who can Brahmakshatri ya 6 40.00 72 14 read and write and 7 have received primary Others ~ 26.6? ~2 8 Muslim 5 33.33 46 12 education. None of the females has studied up to Total 15 100.00 160 34 or beyond secondary standard.

STATEMENT n

Literacy and educational status

Literate PersonsJ without MalesJ educational S. S. C. or Females Illiterate standard Primary Secondary matriculate Total 2 S 4- 5 6 7

A-BLOCK PRINTING

Persons 26 3 16 I 46 Males 12 1 9 I 23 Females 14- 2 7 23

n-SCREEN PRINTING

Persons 66 18 50 20 6 160 Males 26 10 33 16 5 90 Female. 40 8 17 4 1 70

The standard of literacy is higher among the WORKSHOPS AND DwELLINGS family members of screen printers than among • those of block printers. Of 160 members in the 11.11 W.erkshops of four e'tabli~hments surveyed households of screen printers 58.75 engaged in block printing are separate situa­ per cent are literate and 41.25 per cent are ted within a mile from their residence, while illiterate. Among 94 literates, 18 can read and two having workshop-cum-dwellings mostly work write, 50 have received primary education, 20 in the verandah of the house. ThOle having have studied up to secondary level and 6 have separate workshops work in rented premises. passed S. S. C. examination. The extcn t of male Two workshops are about 200 sq. feet literacy is high (71.11 per cent). Thirty-three each, but 4 are bigger, each having more males have studied up to primary level, 16 up to than 2~O sq. feet. Four families live in two room secondary level and 5 are matriculate. Among tenements and two in single room tenements, 30 literate females, 17 are educated up to pri­ Light and ventilation are good in all of them. mary standard, 4 up to secondary and only one II.12 All the 15 Icreen printing establiah­ has passed S. S. C. examination. ments have a separate workshop away from the ( WORKsHOPS AND DWELLINGS 41 house. Only three are located in owned premi­ those coming from outside reside within ses and the rest are rented. Twelve are within radius of 2 miles. a distance of one mile from the residence of HOBBIES AND RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES the owner and three about a mile away. All but one small lUlit which has area of 51 to 100 II.lS The working hours in most of the sq. feet admeasure more than 250 sq. feet and establishments are generally from 8 a.m. to 12 are fairly big in size. In addition to the work­ noon and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Males are fond shop proper, there are two rooms one of which of tea and bidi, which they take whenever they is used as office and other as store-room for feel the need'of relaxation during working hours. storing colours, chemicals, cloth and finished pro­ They are also fond of cinema which they visit ducts. Ventilation is good, but there being no often. They are religious minded. BeJideshaving drainage, dirty water spreads out or accumu­ regular darshan at temples, they attend bkajans lates in pit. dug for the purpose. Their residen­ and katka. Hindus celebrate festivals like tial accommodation il comparatively good, well­ Navratri, Hali, Divali, Janmashtami, Ram­ lighted and ventilated. Seven families live in navami, etc., while Mahmmedans celebrate lingle room tenement, 6 use two rooml each Ramzan, Id, etc. As a weekly off on Monday and two have three rooms. and on other religious days, workshops are kept closed. Hindus attend the fair held on Shravan Most of the workers are concentrated in Vad 30 (Amas) at the temple of Matri Mata on Fulwadi area, Gondal.Gate, Bhadar Road, Vora­ Osam Hill near Patanvav, 17 miles from Jetpur wad and Makati Bheri. The owners live within and also take part in a fair held at Jetpur on a radius of one mile, whereas workers except Shravan Vad 7, a and 9. SECTION III RAW MATERIALS

STATEMENT MUSLIN CLOTH m Rates of muslin cloth (1964) 111.1 THE BASIC AND PRINCIPAL raw material Rate required in this industry is cloth. Mill cloth Quality Count Unit (Yards) (in RI.) as well as handloom and power-loom cloth, 1 2 3 4 Unmercerized 48 x 56 20 21 mercerized as well as unmercerized of different Mercerized 60 x 80 20 2B COlUlts is used. Proprietary establishments procure Mercerized 70 x 90 20 30 it directly in bulk, whereas those working for Mercerized 80 x 100 20 34 others are supplied by the master traders. About Mercerized 100 x 120 20 36 to 40 50 cloth merchants of Jetpur eli well as others COLOURS AND CmMICAU from Bombay, Rajkot, Ahmedabad and Madras supply doth of desired length. All the establish­ UI.2 Besides cloth which forms the basic raw ments engaged in block printing are working material on which a large variety of designs are for the traders who supply cloth to them and printed, the chief are colours and chemicals. decide the design and colour scheme. Screen No vegetable dyes are used. Only the ready­ printing and block printing is mainly done on made dyes of reputed companies like eIBA, IRL, fine and superfine mercerized cloth, the main KCA, ARL, etc., are used~ The colours and item of production being saris, whereas block chemicals are available locally from establish­ printing is also done on coarse pankora as well ments engaged in this trade. However, their as other handloom cloth. The establishments prices being higher than those quoted by the working independently purchase cloth directly manufacturers, they are mostly pm-chased through from mills and factories through the agents their agents or salesmen. Only small establish­ at Bombay and Ahmedabad. Statement III ments who cannot order bluk purchases avail of gives the rates of muslin cloth of different the local traders at the higher rates. The different counts. colours and chemicals required are given below.

STATEMENT IV Colqurs and chemical. Price 1964 (ex. Sl. eluding tax) No. Particulars Company· Unit (in Rs.) Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 6 COLOUU 1 Brown IRL kg. 122 Available in tin of2, kg. 2 Red IRL kg. 22 3 Golden RAKA kg. 25 to 26 GEEKA kg. 29 4 Blue ARL, KCA kg. 24 5 Green IB Kuidip, Liberty kg. 24 ATIC, kg. 95 to 102 KCA, ARL, CIBA, Bharat, Textile } 42 COLOURS AND CHEMICALS 43

STATEMENT IV-contd. Colours aud c:hemic:als-contd.

Price 1964 (ex- SI. eluding tax) No. Particulars Company· Unit (in Rs.) Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 GreyIBL CIBA kg. 240 7 Blue 04B (indigo) ARL, elBA, KCA, kg. 82 Bharat 8 Indigo Golden Yellow IGK Sterling kg. 198 9 Indigo Violet IRR, ARR Sterling, ARL kg. 26:3 10 Indigo Pink IR Sterling, ARL kg. 240 to 250 11 Blue IBC DH kg. 185 CHEMICALS

1 Gum kg. 3.60 to 8 Bag of 50 kg. 2 Crystles-bleaching 50 kg. 4l.56 3 Flour-bleaching 50 kg. 42 4 Una 50 kg. 50 to 55 5 Caustic (Flakes) 100 kg. 180 6 Glydot B. IeI 25 kg. 8 to 12.50 7 Glymole B. ICI 25 kg. 11.94 8 Wax Local Company kg. 1.75 Also available in bars of 8 lb. 9 Glycerine kg. 3 to 5 Also available i kg. in bottle 3 kg. in tin and 150 kg. barrel

NOTE: IRL-International Research Laboratories RAKA-RAKA Laboratories GEEKA-GEEKA Industries ARL-Arlabs Limited, Bombay KCA-Kathiawad Colour Agency Kuldip-Kuldip Colour Industries Liberty-Liberty Dyes ATIC-ATIC Industries Ltd., Bulsar CIBA-CIBA Dyes Bharat-Bharat Dyes and Chemicals Company; Bharat Texdyes Industries Textile-Textile Aniline and Chemical Company Private Ltd. Sterling-Sterling Dyes DH-Durand Hugenon leI-Imperial Chemicals Industries

III.3 Most of the establishments purchase colour or chemical is in short supply, that colours and chemicals wholesale on credit basis, purchases are made at higher prices. Shortage the payments being usually made within 30 days of raw materials of good quality is generally felt after purchase. It is only when a particular during the peak season, SECTION IV'

TOOLS ~ TECHNIQUE

A-Block PrIntIng undertakes block making according to orders. Toou AND lJ.fPUMENTS He employs four workers who are skilled in this IV. 1 BLOOK PRINTING' is one of the simple work. The blocks, particularly of traditional processes involved in printing artistic designs motifs and designs, are made locally. But for by pressing a pattern on lengths of cotton or various artistic designs, blocks are purchased other fabrics by means of wooden stamps. The from Pethapur, which is a well-known and operation is entirely manual requiring necessary specialized centre in block engraving. The price skill on the part of the artist. The cloth is spread of a block varies from Rs, 10 to 40 and even on a padded wooden table or pat and stamped higher in case of complicated designs. The price by the artisan sitting on ground or stool or is related usually to the size of the block, but standing. The tools required in block printing it also depends on the nature of design and are simple and listed below giving the price and workmanship. Blocks of finer designs having dots place of their procurement. and lines produced by fixing wire ends and strips (in the block) are costlier and in greater STATEMENT V demand. The price of blocks 2" x 5" and 5" x 8" Tools and implements-Block Printing in size varies from Rs. 10 to 40 per block. The Prict Place from number of blocks required depends on the num­ SI. Name of tool/ 1964 where ber of colours in which a particular design is No. implement Unit (in RI.) procured Life to be printed. A design in three colours will 2 3 4 5 6 require three blocks each showing that part of Wooden blocb Per the design which is to bt printed in that colour. (engraved) article 15 to 40 Jetpur, 1 year IV.3 The blocks do not last long. They do Rajkot, not wear out much by use but with the passage of Pethapur, Kalol time. Sometimes designs become out of fashion 2 Wooden bo~ and the blocks remain un utilised for long and .(12"xlO"xli") " 5 Jetpur 1 year wear out. The usual life varies from 3 to 5 3 Wooden table Pair (two 300 20 years years depending on the care with which it is pieces) " handled and stored. The artisans replace them 4 Box carrier Per (1 6"xl6":x:36") article 40 20 years when they wear out or go in for new blocks 5 Bl'UIh (9"xl i") 1 " 1 year when new designs come into fashion. This is the 6 Bowl No. 22 " " main item on which he has to spend a large (Capacity of 2i lb.) " I " 3 years amount by way of recurring expenditure. 7 Iron press " 40 If 20 years IV.4 A wooden table which is required to 8 Balance and weights " 20 " 10 years 9 Stove 30 " HI years spread the cloth to be prin ted, is made by 10 cal 10 Bucket " carpenters. It costs nearly Rs. 300 and lasts for " 5 " 2 years 11 Utensil 1 to 8 ., 2/5 years about 20 years. The cotton rugs and kantan Barrel tin/wooden " 12 " 5 to 20" 2 years or jute cloth are spread on the table as a IV.2 Wooden blocks engraved in various pad. A wooden box is required for the colour designs are the basic tools required 1U the solution in which the engraved block is dipped operation of this craft. Blocks are made locally repeatedly while printing. It is placed on a and also procured from Pethapur and Kalal in carrier which is a square stool with small wheels Mehsana district and from Raj kat. One esta~ fixed at the bottom of each of the fOllr legs. blishment of Suthar working at Jetpur itself This facilitates its movement as printingproceeds. TOOLS AND DlPLEJlENTS 45

The other tools required are brush, iron press, requires deep insight and knowledge of designs stove, bucket, utensils, etc. and colour schemes. IV.S In block engraving besides simple IV.9 Before commencing printing on the carpentry tools chisels of different sizes, gravers, fabric, the artisan first prepares the dyes of the etc., are used for engraving. The same are required shades according to the colour scheme listed hereunder. to be adopted for a particular design. Colours used are mostly rapid fast and indigo instead STATEMENT VI of vegetable dyes used in former times. The Tools and implements-Block Engraving colours are ready-made in powder forms by Price Place from reputed manufacturers and easily soluble in SI. Name of 1964- where water. The colour solutions of different colours No. tool/implement Unit (in Rs.) procured Life to which sodium nitrate and caustic soda are 1 2 3 4- 5 6 added in the required proportion are first 1 Saw Per 32 Jetpur/ 3 years prepared by the artisan. To thicken the colour article Rajkot solutien a thickening agent like gum is added. 2 Hand drill 3 10 years When this mixture becomes a sticky mass like ! Hammer " 4- " 5 years a paste, it is poured in a square wooden box 4 File " 7 to 1~ " S months 5 Plane " 10 " 3 years having tali or a net of bamboo strips over which 6 Chisel " 0.50 to 4- " 5 years a piece of jute cloth is kept to serve as a stamp· " " 7 Compass or pad. By this device, the colour paste spreads callipers 1 5 years evenly on the jute cloth and the engraved 8 Iron vice " " 20 years 24 portion of a wooden block when dipped in at 9 Drill-beats " 0.62 " Smoothll 10 Graver " 0.37 " 3mooths the time of printing takes only the required 11 Right angle " 4 " . 20 years quantity of colour over the engraved design. If 12 Ruler " 2 " 20 years the colour paste is not of the required thickness " " or if the engraved portion of the block does not IV.6 Designs are carved on wooden blocks catch exactly the required amount of colour, by the engraver, when a particular design is the design will be blurred and spoiled. It is finally selected by the trader. Blocks may be absolutely essential to ensure that the design square, rectangular or circular varying in size printed with the block is uniform throughout according to the nature of designs. the length of the cloth and no portion is either TECHNIQ_UE darker or lighter than the other. IV.IO Thus the preparation of dyes is the rv.7 Block printing is a simple process of most important of the operations to be perfor. producing different designs and patterns on med with proper care. Mostly the proprietor fabrics by pressing a wooden stamp dipped in himself attends to this job. In bigger establish­ the dye. It is thus an outward application of ments, where screen printing is done, a well. dye-stuff to the surface of the fabric. Block trained and experienced dyer drawing a salary printing is done in many colours. Block printing Rs. 200 to 400 per month is engaged to do this i. carried out on all sorts of cloth whether job. This person obviously holds a high status coarse or fine, used as garments, bed-covers, in these units. The art of preparing dyes is hangings, etc. usually regarded as a trade secret and the IV.S Block prin ting requires simple tools artist does not allow anybody to know the like a padded wooden table and carved wooden formula he adopts in colour making. blocks. Though the entire process is manually IV. 11 About 10 to 12 colours are used in operated and appears simple it requires careful block and screen printing which are (1) Blue, handling of blocks and sufficient experience in the (2) Brown, (3) Violet, (4) Green, (S) Copper, craft. Only persons skilled in this operation can (6) Chocolate, (7) Pink, (8) Red, (9) Orange, perform the job satisfactorily otherwise the (10) Black, (11) Yellow. In each of these colours, printed design may be spoiled. The craftsman three shades can be worked bringing the total 46 SECTION IV-TOOLS AND TECHNIQUE number of colour shades to 33. Matching of portion of the block in the colour paste kept colour is done according to the designs and in the wooden box and assures himself that only motifs used in printing. The following are some the required amount is spread on the design. He of the examples for the preparation of colours then stamps the block on the fabric giving mixed in different proportions. uniform pressure over it. If the pressure is not (a) Brown colour = Yellow (4 to las) + red uniform and sufficient, the design may be un­ (Ii tolas) + blue (~tola) even having one part deeply spread with colour + hard blue (2 tolas)+ and the other with no colour at all. This is the uria (5 tolas) + Cet ustic most important part of the operation wherein the solution (1 tala) + water skill of the artist helps in giving uniform print­ + starch (Flour and cry­ ing over the fabric. The printer takes proper stle) =300 tolas (Bowl care to .fix the point at each successive stamping. No. 24). In a multi-colour design there will be as many (b) Violet colour = Original rapid (3 tolas) blocks as there are colours in the design. The + \ uria (5 tolas) + caus­ artisan first takes the main block and prints the tic' (i tola) + water portion of design in one colout. He then takes (4 tolas) + starch + the subsidiary blocks and prints them one after gum = 300 tolas (Bowl the other accordingly to the colour scheme, No. 24). taking proper care to see that the points of the Some establishments are also using glycerine blocks are fixed at exact positions. If the printer and glydot in the preparation of colours to does not take due care to fix the point while attain glaze. stamping the block the printing will be poor IV.12 When the pastes of different colours and the design will be spoiled. Printing in all to be used are ready, the printer first spreads other colours is likewise repeated. When the the cloth to be printed on a padded wooden printing is complete the fabric is passed on for table, taking all care to see that there is no what i. ,called 'acidic pro:cess' which takes place crease in the cloth. Once the cloth is perfectly on the bank of the river. spread, he takes up the printing operation. If B-Screen Printing only palav (sari ends) and borders are to be printed, he starts from one end and repeats IV.l3 Block printing is practised since long the design throughout the lengths leaving the whereas screen printing is a recent development ground portion untouched. But when the in printing technique. Both because it gives a entire sari is to be printed the de~igns are first better get-up of design, saves time and labour, prin ted on border and then on the ,ground. In and increases output, it is practised 'on a large case of one colour print only, one block having scale. A large number of establishment. is enga­ the complete design engraved is required. When ged in screen printing in Gujarat. At Jetpur 110 there are more colours than one, there will be establishments print fabrics with !creen as against as many blocks as there are col&urs. In a multi­ a few nOW engaged in block printing. An in­ colour design, each block ,will be having that teresting account of the development of screen portion of the design, which is to be printed printing is given below. in that particular colour, all the blocks placed "During the 20th cen tury a further together completing the whole. The colour box means of printing was developed in the is kept on a wooden stool having wheels, so as industry, namely, that of screen printing. to facilitate its movement while printing. In a This method has grown from the Japanese multi-colour design, darker colours are printed so-called Yuzen style, which was carried first followed by lighter ones. The blocks which out with screens made from specially pre­ are rectangular or square in shape have brass pared rice paper cut in stencil form. The or iron strips fixed on the corners to enable the patterns used were most intricate, usually printer to fix the point at each successive containing free centres or rings which were stamping. .The printer first dips the engraved . held tos-ether with human hair. Thes~ 'toOLS AN!> IW'LEJomN'l'S 47

rtencils were sometimes mounted on fine a desk are used. A rubber edged tool like a mesh silk. The U.S.A. claim a longer wooden roll known as squeegee is required for tradition in screen printing than Europe, rolling the colour paste over the screen, besides whilst France, especially in the Lyons other tools like spray pump and brush for area, is thought to be the pioneer of this cleaning the screen, weights and measures, method of the continent. Screen printing stove, buckets and other utensils for preparing has developed considerably during recent dyes. years, and it has provided the industry with a simple quick and far less costly style STATEMENT VII than that of the roller machine. This Tools and implements-Screen Printing method has far greater scope than hand block printing and the designs which it is Place Name Price from possible to produce by this means are practi­ Sl. of toolJ 1964 where cally limitless. * * * In screen printing the No. implement Unit (in Rs.) procured Life designer has a freedom hitherto restricted 1 2 a 4 5 6 in any printing style, for it is possible in 1 Screen Per article 40 Jetpur this method to produce a faithflll repre­ 2 Wooden table 63'x5' 1,000 20 years sentation of a brush stroke or a pen line, 3 Wooden " " and consequently a much greater variety frame with- in design can be obtained. The two out screen methods of screen printing which are most 27"x58" " 5 to 10 6 months commonly adopted are the photographic 4 Wooden " 5 and the lacquer styles, and although the colour roll " 3 months 5 Spray pump " preparation of the screen varies slightly (Maruti) 255 R'\ikot 50 years the result achieved is similar." 1 " Jetpur 6 Brush " 1 year 7 Bowl No. 24, TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS capacity of 2 IV.14 The above extract shows that screen 300 tolas " " 3 years printing is the 20th century product of this art. 8 Balance and weights 20 10 years It has made a revolutionary contribution to " 40 " 20 years 9 Iron presl! " " calico prin ting. Because of various advantages 10 Stove 30 10 years " S " 2 years like saving in labour and wider latitude in 11 Bucket " " designs and colours, it hal been nowadays 12 Utensils 1 to 8 " 2/5 years 13 Barr!;! tin} " adopted by all outstanding designers and manu­ wooden 5 to 20 .. 2 years facturers. Screen prmting is practised on a much " larger scale at jetpur than block printing. In IV.16 Screens are prepared by hand-cut or some big concerns there are separate units for . photographic methods. Statement VIn lists the making screens which are obtained by the other tools and implements required in screen making. firms from the establishments engaged exclusively IV.17 The screen frames are made from in this work. Statement VII lists the tools soft wood like deudar (Cedrus deodara) so that it and implements required in an average unit in may not split, while fixing nails and remain screen printing. light in weight. As the printer requires to shift IV.15 Screen is the first need. The hand­ the screen repeatedly' as printing proceeds, it cut or photographic screens are used like is most essential that scrten should be light in cyclostyle hand rollers copying the script by weight. This stout frame of good quality wood stencil. For spreading fabric to be printed, has some finely woven silk very tightly strained wooden tables of required length (preferably 63 over it. While preparing the screen, this material feet long) and breadth of five feet, slanting like is treated with resists like lacquer film, tissue,

1. EVELYN Bll.OOKS,~rOur Tu;tilB Printing, pp. 105 and 61, 1950 SEaTIolii IV-TOOLS AND TECHNIQ.UE photo stencil in luch a way that the design to cloth. When the design ill single coloured, only be printed remains porous, whilst the background one Screen is required. But in the case of multi­ becomes water proofed. coloured designs, the number of screens will be equal to the number of. colours in the parti­ STATEMENT vm cular design, each of t.he screens printing that Tools and implements-Screen Making portion of the design ,which bears that parti­ cular colour. Name Price 51. of tool/ 1964 Place from DYEING AND DEVELOpmG 01' PalN1:ED CLOTH No. implement Unit (in &s.) where procured Life 2 3 4- 5 6 IV.I9 The block or screen printed textiles 1 Saw Per article 32 Jetpur/Kajkot 3 years are rolled and kept in a cool place for 24 hours. 2 File 7 to 14 3 months They are then kep t for 15 minutes in the sun­ " 4- " 5 years 3 Hammer " shine, before they are immersed for development 4 Chisel " 0.50 3 years in the mixture of acitic acid, sodium nitrate and " " 3 montha 5 Cutter 0.75 caustic ·soda which transforms violet into blue, 6 Brush " 5 " 3 months 7 Emery .tone " 7 " 2 years orange into dark orange, light brown into light 8 Iron press " " blue and red into green. Though colours like cop­ 30 20 yean (Electric) " " per, chocolate, pink, etc., develop by the contact of air and black colour from crystals through TECHNIQ.UE sunshine, they also are passed· through this IV.IS After the screens for a required design mixture to acquire fastness. After the colours are are made and the colour pastes are ready, the developed as above, printed saris are passed printing process starts. The fabric to be printed through acidic water, so that the colours assume is spread on the wooden table specially made a beautiful look. Thereafter they are washed in for the purpose. As saris form the main item of clean water and then dipped in the mixture of production at this centre, the usual length of a bleaching powder for whiteness. Finally, they table is 63 feet on which the cloth of four saris are passed through mixture of starch, waxol can be spread at a time. The tables have top and tinopal to attain hardness. The entire process of cement sheets to which wax is applied to keep of developing and dyeing usually takes place on the cloth creaseless and firmly fixed in position the bank of river Bhadar. After folding and while printing. When wax looses its stickiness ironing, the saris are passed through a roll five because of dust and frequent use, fresh wax is times and kept under heavy pressure in a big applied at an interval of 15 days. While castor press for five hours. On completion of this oil is sometimes added to wax to obtain desired process, the finished products are ready for sale. stickiness. Rosin (rajan) is added to make it e-Designs hard and berja flour to remove excess stickiness. After the fabric is well spread over the top of DESIGNS IN ScUEN AND BLoaK PlumINO the table, the artisan places the screen on the IV.20 The designs and colour schemes make printing table with its silk lying flat upon the the fabric attractive. Whatever may be variety material to be printed and the liquid paint or the type and quality of cloth, if the designs solution is poured inside the screen frame and and the colours are artistically selected, the forced through the POMlS design by moving a finished sari immediately draws attention of a rubber roller called squeegee, once or twice buyer. It is this fundamental point which puts across the screen. The Screen is then lifted and the artist's or the entrepreneur's businels acumen placed at the next printing point or ,kin marked. to test. Innumerable design' in a variety of and . :fixed at proper distances on the slanted shades are found in the printed saris of Jetpur. side of the table to ensure continuity of the The designs are traditional as well al modem. print. The artisans standing opposite each other The businessmen engaged in the craft keep a on both the sides of the table carryon this con tinuous watch over the trends and changes process till they cover the entire length of the in fashion. It is the trend of prevailing fuhioD DESIGNS 49 that hal a conliderable influence upon the types (9) Tar-nu-laher chakkar-A combination of of designs in vogue. Geometrical designs are tar·nu·laheriyun and tar-nu·chakkar. produced by circles, dots, arcs, parallel lines, (10) CMuti chokdi-Small rhombus drawn at a cross lines, etc. Floral designs are produced little distance from each other. by the harmony of arrangements of flowers, IV.23 Multiple geometrical designs are pro­ petals, leaves and so on. Motifs of animals, birds duced with combination of dots, lines, squares, and human figures are also designed. Sometimes triangles, etc. Dots and small lines are also used the designs are a combination of geometrical, to produce artistic motifs like flowers, leaves, floral and animal motifs. branches, trees, birds, insects, animals, dolls and IV.21 Excepting independent units, majority of human figures. the establishments are working for the traders IV.24 The designs based on the flora and who supply cloth and take back the printed fauna are many. In flora, leaves of trees material. The arti8ans suggest the designs to the like pipal (Ficus religiosa) , vad (Ficus indica), mango traders by supplyillg the sketch in colours to the (Mangifera indica), asopalav (Jonesia asoka), kothmir merchants or traders for approval. If they suggest (Coriandrum satillum). etc., are printed alone or any change in colour or design in that sketch, with branches in various combinations. The com­ their suggestions are carried out and blocks or mon flower~ noticed are rose (Rosa alba), cha­ screcns are prepared accordingly. meli (Jasminum auricula tum ), champak (Mickelia IV.22 Innumerable designs have been adopted champaca ), jooi (Jasminum auriculatum) , borsali in block printed fabrics of Jetpur. A wide (Mimusops elengi), mogra (Jaminum sambac) , rat­ variety of geometrical designs are produced with rani (CcstTum nocturnum) and many others. The dots and lines-straight, curved, crossed, parallel designs are, therefore, known from the type of or triangles, circles, semi-cirdes, arcs, squares, flora printed, e.g., kothmir bhat, jooi vel, ratrani, rhombus. Some of the designs are, therefore, etc. Fruits woven into designs are mango (Mangi­ named after geometrical figures. Designs with fera indica), sketur (MOTUS alba), angur (Vitis lIini­ variations in wavy lines are styled nalli laker, ]era), akhrot (Aleurites molluccana). ckoMi laher, single laker, dabi laker wherein wave IV.25 Among fauna, birds like parrot, sparrow like effects are produced with straight, cross or and peacock, among insects butterfly, among parallel lines and small circles. Some of these animals elephant, tiger, lion, horse and among are explained below. human figures putli are the most common and (1) Rycdano-Small dota like rye or mustard widely popular. Many a times one finds a printed all throughout the fabric. combination of geometrical, with floral and fauna (2) Nalli laher-Laher or wavy effect produced designs. Traditional designs are' also revived and with small straight lines. reproduced with variations to suit modern trends (3) Chokdi laher-Laker or wavy effect produced and fashions. The arti5an sometimes invents with small cross lines. novd designs from imagination also. (4) Zini ckoMi-Design produced with parallel IV.26 For the identification of designs, serial lines running in two direction. and cross­ numbers are marked on each design. How­ ing each other makiJlg choMi or rhombus ever, some of the popular designs are named for like figures. easy understanding by the customers. In the (5) Single laker-Laker or wavy effect produced past names appropriate to the designs were with curved and parallel lines. given accoraing to the.motifs printed on the (6) Dabi laher-Laker or wavy effect produced fabrics. A sari printed with three flower petals with small circles like tlabi or small circular was called iran pankhadi or three petals, with figures. lotus flower known as kamal or lotus and a group (7) Tar-nu-laheriyun-Wavyeffect produced with of stars known as tara mandal and so on. Some very thin pieces of wire fixed on the block. of the popular designs are named after films (8) Tar-nu-cha!ckar-Chakkar or circles produced like Leader, Rakhi, Bandini, Sangam, Pyra-ka-Sa­ as in (7); gar, Dilruba, Apna Ghar, etc. Such namel bear ,G-7 50 SECTION IV-TOOLS AND TEOHNIQ.UE

no relationship to the designs and are meant people for designs and colour schemes are to make the products popular in the market. given below. IV.27 Flowers with a variety of petals, creepers, mangoes styled moti keri palm), double State Popular designs keri, etc., and leaves are used frequently to make Gujesat a design. Big trees and flowers with branches are White back~round with floral palau, not preferred now but flowers, etc., of appropriate palm}, skirt, Jancy handlzani in light col­ 'size having a good matching of colours are gene­ ours and minute geometrical designs. Rajasthan rally selected for printing. Blue, brown, violet, Bandhanis and laheriya and saris of green, pink, red,orange, copper, chocolate, black floral designs. Madras and yellow colours are the .most common c.olours Large size floral and geometrieal (south) Uled. Matching of colours IS done accordlr:g to designs in black background. Palau the designs and motifg used in printing. skirt, palau hutti, printed oandhanis, IV.28 The proprietors work out the designs Radium style, day and night style and colour schemes according to the tastes of in gaudy colours. Bengal the people. They study the trends of fashionin Coloured palau in Bengal style and ach region and some of them also employ art- palau skirt in light colours. e . Assam ists at Bombay who supply them deSIgns an d Floral designs, huttis, geometrical Bihar designs like squares, black back­ } in colour schemes. The regional preferences of ground and laheria saris. SECT~ON V FINISHED PRODUCTS AND MARKETING

FINISHED PRODUCTS return finished goods to the respective traders. On an aver age about 35,000 saris were printed V.l MAIN PRODUCT of the craft under survey at Jetpur everyday in the year 1962-6~. at Jetpur is printed sari only, but to some Since then the craft has made great progress exten t bed-sheets are also prin ted. Saris are with the result that about 65,000 saris are used by the ladies of all communities. It reported to have been printed per day is a common dress of Hindu ladies. The during the year 1968. Of the latter, about length of these saris varies from 5 yards to 5,000 are printed by blocks and 60,000 by 9 yards and width 44" to 50". Length differs screen printing method. About 31 per cent of according to the customs which vary from State the daily output at present are prin ted on cloth to State. Five yard saris are worn by Gujarati purchased by the establishments themselves and ladies, 6 yard by Bengali, Madrasi and also by the rest on paymen t of labour charge. to the some Gujarati whereas those of 8 or 9 yards are craftsmen. known as Maharashtrian saris. V.2 In the past, for identification of finished MARKI!.TING products tell-tale names noticed earlier were given, V.5 Saris of Jetpur are in demand through­ but nowadays names of some reputed persons, out Saurashtra, Gujarat and also some parts of and cinema pictures, etc., have come into vogue India. Apart from Jetpur and Rajkot, Ahmeda­ to popularise them among the masses. Designs are bad, Bombay, Calcutta, etc., are the chief not infrequently named also after the colour and marketing centres. Due to the greater rang~ ~f design adopted in printing. varieties. in design and shadel of colours, It 1S V.3 Theprices of finished articles vary accord­ becoming more and more popular day by ~ay ing to the quality of cloth, number of colours in the other partl of the country also. Bemg used and designs. The price of a sari having used as a regular wear its demand from all only. two colours with simple design will be lower classes is significant, not only in India but than that with more colours and complicated also outside. Printed saris are exported to design, even though the cloth is the same, as the Rangoon, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Osaka, Singa­ printing work involved is proportionately greater. pore and Africa. Usually saris are printed in 10 to 12 colours, V.6 Some of the important market centres each in 3 shades. Thus 30 to 35 different in India are Madras, Bejwada, Calcutta, Delhi, shades of colours are produced in the final Nagpur, Kanpur, Ahmedabad, Indore and product. The prices of finished products vary Bombay. Some of the units receive orders from from Rs.1 °to 35 per sari. the merchants of Rajkot, Ahmedabad and Bom­ VA Finished goods are kept in cupboards or bay also. The sale is wholesale on cash or c~e~it racks and sometimes packed in cloth in the basis. The amount is generally recovered wlthm form of a bundle. No special arrangement for 15 dz,ys; but the limit is relaxed up to 60 days storing the finished goods is necessary as they are in certain case8. not required to be stored for long and con­ V.7 The unit. working for traders get raw sequently there is no huge accumulation of stock. cloth in the form of a bale of 75 rolls or taka, Also most of the establishments work on behalf of i.e., 1,500 yards. The same packing material is others or prin t to order, in which case they used while returning the finished goods. Th~ 51 52 SECTION V-P'INISHED PRODUCTS AND MARKETING freight aild transportation charges of one trip is extent contributed to the promotion and concen .. borne by the traders, whereas the rolling tration of this industry at Jetpur. Forty-one and pressing charges are paid by the printing Sta te Transport buses pass through Jetpur and establishments. The orders received mainly connect with Junagadh, Dhoraji, Rajkot, Bhav­ from Bombay and other centres account nagar, Ahmedabad, Surendranagar, Amreli and for 70 per cent of the printing work, and the Gondal. It is ~l.'Jo linked by rail with Jetalsar remaining 30 per cent by local cloth merchants in one direction and with Rajkot in another of mainly Brahmakshatriya caste numbering direction. Over and above these means for about 50. A cooperative society has also. been sending the finished goods to various centres in formed since January 1964, but it has not yet Gujarat and other States and receiving raw undertaken the sale of finished products. materials, four private transport companies operate V.8 In textile printing industry, Jetpur ro,nk. regular services which are quicker and available second to Ahmedabad. But so far as printing of at reasonable rates. At times unregistered parcels sari is considered, Jetpur ranks first. Easy::: are sent also by post. The charges are Rs. 30.55 availability of means of transport and com­ for 20 kg. The maximum weight allowed by munications by road and rail has to a very large post is 13 kg. which for 52 saris. SECTION VI ECONOMIC CHARACTERISTICS

and 12 for 6 yard. The artisan thus gets Rs. 2 CAPITAL STRUCTURE to g per sari. The details of the cost structure VI.1 FACTORS LIKE investment, market, and type and returns are given below. of raw materials determine the economics of the industry. In block printing most of the Printed sari of 48 x 56 counts processes are carried out by manual labour. However, some capital is necessary to start with. 5 Yds. 6 Yds. Though the fixed capital required in printing for (in Rs.) (in Rs.) tools and appliances is meagre, the working ca­ pital for the purchase of colours, chemicals and Cloth 5.00 6.00 cloth requires sufficient funds on hand, if the Colours and chemical. 1.00 1.00 artisans work as independent units. Quantum Wages 2.00 3.00 of total investment varies from unit to unit. But Profit 2.00 2.00 at Jetpur, most of the artisans are engaged in SaJe Price 10.00 12.00 block printing work on piece~wage basis and so the question of investment on raw materials like Printed sari of 100 x 120 counts cotton does not arise. It is estimated that to start a new establishment working independently 5 Yds. 6 YcIJ. with its own raw materials, the minimum capi­ (in Rs.) (in RI.) tal required would be Rs.25,OOO-raw materials 10.00 12.00 Rs. 10,000, blocks Rs. 5,000, tools and imple­ Cloth 1.50 2.00 ments Rs. 6,000, and working capital Rs. 4,000. Colours and chemicals 2.50 3.00 In screen printing, the capital required would Wages 3.00 a.po be greater, about Rs. 50,000. Profit 17.00 20.00 VI.2 No unit working in the craft has Sale Price received any financial loan or subsidy from the Government. Loan up to Rs. 10,000, can be had In screen prin ting the margin of profit i! higher from the pepartment of Cooperation. The than block printing. The traders get about 10 artisans generally create funds from their own per cent profit on sales of finished products. It resources. is estimated that 35,000 saris are printed daily, in which cloth worth Rs. 150,000, colours worth COST OF PRODUCTION Rs. 35,000 and chemicals worth Rs. 5,000 are VI.3 The cost of production varies from article utilised and Rs. B,ooO, are paid to the workers. to article. It varies widely depending on the cloth The value of finished products can be estimated used, designs chosen and number of colours used at Rs. 225,000, inclusive of rent and other mis­ in printing. The muslin cloth of different counts , cellaneous expenses. generally ranging from 4B x 56 to 100 x 120 is INOOME used. Its price varies from Rs. 21 to 40 per taka or piece of 20 yards. On an average the cost VI.4 The following statement shows the dis­ of cloth per sari of 5 yards of 48 x 56 counts will tribution of households according to ranges of be Rs. 5 and that of 100 x 120 counts, will be net annual income derived from block printing Rs.IO. The sale price of a 5 yard sari is Rs.lO and screen printing.

53 54 SECTION VI-ECONOMIC CHARA.CTERISTICS

STATEMENT IX fo~ four saris. A printer can earn Rs. 5 to 6 Distribution of surveyed households dally in block printing and Rs. 7 to 8 in screen according to inCOllle range printing. Following statement gives the printing No. of households rates. Income range (in Rs.) Block printing Screen prinrg STATEMENT X 1 2 S Less than 800 Screen printing charges 801 to 1,000 Printing charge. Printing charges 1,001 to 2,000 No. of of 4 saris No. of of 4 saris 2 colours ---__ _ colours 2,001 to 2,500 2 7 to be 5 yards 6 yards to be 5 yards 6 yards 2,501 and above 2 7 printed (in Rs.) (in RI.) printed (in Rs.) (inRI.) Total 6 15 2 3 2 3 2 7 VI.5 Income earned from the craft is fairly 8 8 13 14 3 8 9 9 14 15 good. Out of 6 surveyed households of block 4 9 10 10 15 16 printing, 2 earn more than Rs. 2,501, whereas the 5 10 11 11 16 17 remaining four earn between Rs. 1,001 to 2,500. 6 11 12 12 17 18 None is earning less than Rs. 1,001. Similarly the 7 12 13 families engaged in screen printing earn fairly VI.8 Printing in two colour design is paid at well. Of 15 surveyed households, 7 earn more Rs. 7 for a sari of 5 yards and Rs. 8 for a 6 yard than Rs. 2,501 and an equal number earns bet­ sari. Printing charges vary from Rs. 7 to 17 per ween Rs. 2,001 to 2,500, while only one is in sari of 5 yards and Rs. 8 to 18 per sari of 6 the income range of Rs. 801 to 1,000. yards according to the number of colours in the WAGE STRUCTURE design. An artisan engaged in screen printing VI.6 The labourers and artisans are engaged earns on an averal?je Rs. 7 to 8 per day. A on monthly basis, daily wages and piece-wages. dyer is paid Rs. 200 to 350 per month. A screen The wage structure also differs according maker when employed on monthly salary is to various branches of work. There are generally paid Rs. 400 p~r month. Screen makers some workers who get monthly salary as are also working on piece-wage and charge Rs. regular employees, some work on daily wages 13 for hand-cut screen whereas Rs. 20 to 23 and some on piece-wage system. In block print­ for photographic screen. Independent units en­ ing wages are paid mostly on piece-wage basis. gaged in screen making supply screens according to orders placed with them. A hand-cut screen VI.7 In block printing a pair of artisans is charged at Rs. 40 whereas a photographic working at a time can complete 30 saris per day, screen costs Rs. 80 to 85. If the designs are com­ if they work continuously for 10 hours. There plicated or elaborate, they cost even more. are two types of printed saris (1) only border as palau printed sari with two colour known VI.9 The workers engaged in rolling and as galo and (2) whole printed sari wherein bor­ pressing get Rs. 5 to 6 per day if they work for der, palau and ground are covered with three 10 hours constantly. They take the work from or more colours. The printing chcrges per sari the units and deliver the finished products back of the first type varies from Rs. 1.50 to 3 while at the same place. For this job they get 2 paise for the second from Rs. 2.50 to 5. Only raw per sari. About 1,500 to 2,000 saris are pro- ' cloth is supplied by the merchants, the printed cessed daily in peak s~ason, and 1,000 to 1,200 textiles being given back after washing and at other times. ironing. The washer gets 12 paise per sari as washing charges, the chemicals required for VI.lO Five households are engaged in wash­ washing being supplied by the printing unit. In ing and bleaching which are carried out on most of the saris piping is done before prin ting, the the bank of river, about a mile from the tOwn. charges of which vary from 12 paise to 15 paise Chemicals required for this process are supplieq WAGE STRUCTURE 55 by the prmtmg units. WaBhing and ironing VI.12 Monsoon is the slack season as 1t 1S charges are Rs. 2.50 to 3 for 20 saris. A worker not possible to work in wet atmosphere. Wash. engaged in this branch of work can earn Rs. 4 ing and developing processes are also generally to 5 per day, if he works for 10 hours. discontinued due to absence of pure water in the VI.ll As there is no tap water facility at river. The establishments remain closed on every Jetpur more than 60 households, both Hindus Mondays and other religious d2ys observed and Muslims, are engaged in fetching water by by the Hindus. Total working days in a year bullock carts and tin barrels from the river for number 225 to 250. The working hours are from use by printing cst"blishmen ts. A person enga­ 8 a.m. to 12 noon and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. ged in this work can earn Rs. 4 to 6 per day. with a recess in between. SECTION VII ORGANISATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS

board of five directors elected in a general COOPERATIVE SOOIETY meeting. There is also one honorary secretary. VIIJ THE BLOCKAMD screen priutingindustrr is VII.3 The society had its own share capital well organised at Jetpur. There are independent of Rs. 1,325 on January 30, 1964, which is units working with their own raw materiala gradually built up by compulsory thrift collections as well as others working for traders. AU the and by enrolling new members. The society has branches of the industry are well developed and been granted a loan of Rs. 3,500 as working closely coordinated. There is a specialilation in capital at 2i per cent for period of two years most of the operations calling for division of by the 'Saurashtra Small Scale Industry Co­ labour and skill in all the branches of processing. operative Bank Limited, Rajkot'. As and when hs With the expansion of the industry during the own funds and capital are built up, its borrow­ last decade the need for organising a cooperative ing capacity will increase and the society will society wa.s keenly felt to solve the various prob­ get morc funds for working capital and other lems of the craft and protect the interests of the activities. artisans. As a result of efforts made by coopera­ tive department and block authorities, a co­ VIlA During 1963-64, the society distributed operative society, namely, 'Jetpur Rangat Udyog colours and chemic~ls worth Rs. 5,316 to mem­ Screen Print Cooperative Society' of 30 memben bers in cash and on credit. Credit is given for of different castes and communities like Khant, one month only at the rilte of RI. 500 per Dabgar, Brahmakshatriya and Pinjara was orga­ member. Efforts are being xhade to get colours nised in 1959. A loan of Rs. 5,000 wa.& granted and chemicals through State Indu.trial Co­ to purchase too Is aAd implements for the industry operative As!ociation and All-India Handicrafts and a worklhop was also started for giving Board. It also aims at undertaking in course employment to the members. But unfortunately of time joint production and lale of printed it did not work due to lack of cooperation and saris and other ancillary activities to safeguard ignorance of members, and Iluffered loss in its the interests of the arti,an •. Paucity of finance working. Later on the society stopped working and difficulty in procurement of colours and and went into liquidation. chemicals are it. chief problems. During the VII.2 After some time, a new cooperative cooperative year 1963-64, the society purchased society, namely, 'Jetpur Rangat Chhapkama coloun and chemicals worth Rs. 6,653 and made Udyog Sahakari Mandali Ltd.' was organised on a grols profit of Rs. 163.25. January 14, 1964 by constant persuadon by the TRAINlNG staff of Pilot Project of handicrafts and with the assistance of local social workers. Its member­ VII.S Like all traditional crafu, the artisans ship is open to any artisan enlaged in this learn the craft hereditarily from father or some craft residing within 10 miles of Jetpur. The elder member of the family without any formal admisaion fce i. Re. 1 and the value of each training. Families which did not pursue the .hare i. Rsi 25. At present there are 16 memben, craft learnt it in the workshops of others. The of whom 8 are Khatris, 3 are Bhavlars and others artisans are not aware of an y institution impart­ are Mualiml. The society started functionin, in ing training in different technique, processes, the year 1963-64. The society is mauaged by a colour schemes, etc. The dyeing and printing 56 TRAINING 57 indu~try by its very nature demands greater VII.6 Formerly a scheme for training of skill and up to date scientific knowledge for quality candidates willing to learn this industry was production to stand in the open market. Neither implemented by the Cooperative Department. the owners of the establishments nor the hired The candidate was paid stipend and attached to workers from Jet[>ur hwe taken any scientific some establishment for training. By this arrange­ training in dyeing and printing at any such ment the owner saved some money by way of institution. They have acquired the skill and labour charge and the candidate got training mastered the technique by experience and work. in the craft. This scheme i. not in existence now.

G-8 SECTION VIII CONCLUSION

VIlLI CRAFTSMEN AND printing units at Jetpur engaged in cloth printing, the establishment experience great scarcity of water after the of Industrial.Estate is very essen tialf or rehabilitat­ construction of Bhadar Dam, 14 miles :away from in g and coordinating the various stages of Jetpur, which has reduced the flow of water in operations at one place where all the necessary the Bhadar river. At the time the scheme was requisites are readily available. taken in hand, Govern men t had advised the VIII.6 The ever-increasing use nowadays Administrator of Jetpur Municipality to fix one of high-speed machinery for printing textiles automatic shutter in the dam so that the river by means of silk screens or revolving metal will have slow but continuous flow of water all rollers, the Indian art of calico printing and the year roup.d. But dtie to the shortage of block printing by hand are seriously affected. finance, the problem of construction of automatic If appropriate measures are taken to enable the door remained unsloved, with the results that hand-printing sector to obtain cloth and chemicals the industry has been spending a large amount at mill rates, or even wholesale rates, the in cash daily after water supply to meet this difference between the sale price of hand-printed essential need. Similar difficulty is also experien. goods and mill prin ted goods can be narrowed ced in the supply of drinking water, which has down significantly. Though hand-printed saris to be fetched from the river. Under the circum· would cost more, the difference would be very-.: stances, the construction of an automatic shutter small. The possibility of earning foreign exchange requires immediate action. further reinforces the demand for assistance to VIII.2 Another difficulty experienced is the hand-printers. Foreign de~and for Indian prints absence of a modern drainage system. Dirty has been expanding but it is a demalld for water flows on the roads causing danger to the specific hand-printed fabrics carrying designs health of the people. Steps to construct an open with traditional Indian motifs. Saurashtra is so drainage or make some alterna tive arran gemen t rich in designs that there is a great need for for the disposal of dirty water are urgently establishing a separate institution for trainees as needed. well as for evolving new designs and reviving VIII.3 The shortage of colours and chemicals old ones. is sometimes felt acutely when the industry has to purchase them at higher rates. The absence VIII.7 In the United States consumers are of requisite raw materials upsets the printing fond of hand-prin ted Indian prints with typically programme. Adequate and timely supply of Indian designs. If the textile prin ting in dustry raw materials is thus a prime necessity. is to earn foreign exchange, it can do so and VIllA Screen printing at Jetpur consumes do so on a very large scale by expanding the pro­ nearly 3.5 to 4.5 lakhs of metres of cloth per duction and export of hand-printed fabrics with day. There is thus a great scope of the develop­ traditional Indian designs in fast colours and ment of handloom industry at this place where in dimensions suitable to western dresses and the cloth is in such -great demand. Since chemi­ furnishing requirements. cals and colours worth Rs. 50 lakhs are con- VnL8 Corporate activity among artisans umed per year, there is also a scope for starting should be encouraged by all positive measures. a factory for the manufacture of the same. For smooth working of the craft, Government VIII.5 Looking to the" magnitude of the should afford full facilities of supply of requisite production and the number of establishments raw materials and financial facilities for the 5B CONCLUSION 59

purchase of raw materials in sufficient quantity improvement of designs. Technical improvements and keep ample stocks on hand. Cheap and and research should be encouraged in block timely credit should be made available to arti­ making, use of colours, etc. Training school sans through their cooperative and guilds. should be started for imparting training to Constant efforts should be directed towards prospective artisans in hand-printing.

PLATES

P1ATE I

." ."\ .::; ~ <:3 ~ *~ ~ ~ c3 ~. c:::; " ...... ,.-...... " ~"" ~ .- <:> ~ .~'""' ~ ~ f 1 ., J .I J;r ,j ,

r ...0

<0

.... .t," .",~ .::: ~ ~ !;:l ...... '" ...,;:: ~ en ...... ~ ... Q ..., ~~ 0 .::: ...., Eo< ~ o C') C\J~ ::::tci ...... ::4 ., ...... "' ;;:~ lr) ...... PLATE II

Colours and chemicals In workshop PLATE III

Set of blocks m traditional designs PLATE IV

Block printing in single colour PLATE V

Printing m multi-colour PL · VI

{retching oj cloth for screen pril1ting PLATE VII

Screen printing in operation PLATE VIn

Rolls of printed saris PLATE IX

Acidic process for fastness of colour PLATE X

Printed saris are dipped in nver water before washing PLATE XI

Washing lit clean water PLATE XII PLATE XIII

Sun drying PLATE XIV

Ironing of saris-a hand process

Passing through rolls PtATE XV

Pressing in hand press PLATE XVI

Galo PLATE XVII

Galo with butti in palau PLATE XVIII

.., ----. ------_- - Palav hutti PLATE XIX

Chokdi palav PLATE XX

/ Dhaka print sari PLATE XXI

Dhaka palav

Bandhani border PLATE XXII

Chandarvo or pichhavai (Temple cloth) PLATE XXIII PLATE XXIV

Patangiyu

Jui Vel =f!.:':",...... ' '.' .. ' I /. ' '. I~'.," ~....••••• :.~:.y."I ...... " ~ "'.':~.. PLATE XXV ...... ::, • " _/I " ...,. , ,.. ., ...... :-- . .. ' ., .• ...... , .... ,' ...... " • 1./ ....._,.,/ ,,'" ... .' /' ..' . '/1 ' • •• • " ..... -..:.~ • ,.'/' ./ .I ... ,,' l ,.,' \.~ ..... J / ,'/ • I • ••- ... ~'~.'-r""""_ ... / ,r, :...... :...... , ..'...... ,..... ///' "...... , ...... '/i ,...... i,''' , ...... ·· . .,( ...... ' ...... I ' ...~.... I ,... ,' .,'.'.. ,/ •,.. ... ,.~ " ..•, • .' '. . .'• ,... "/ .. ... ' .. ,,' . :' " ..:_/.1 .... : .1,,/'/0' : '/.'.',' .,' . i' ,,:' :' ... .:' ,.'~~•.• ,·/ ... . .':...... ,'/ ,,/.. ;' ...... // ...... 7~·· ...... ~ .. I.' . •." . /. ~ .. ., 1-': r ..'I I' : •••••_...... ,•• ;-:::.. - .... .' i ". , r:""'/. ..' ~...... 1...:...... • ....." ' .:,. ,.' •• '... ." ' , • · ,, :,'.~~....- ~."'l...... ,. ,,' 1/ ..'T • 0'/~' ,.' .,/ • F. ..' • •• •• • , ... .~' :,..~_'"- .....t..' . .. ~;:.:::.;?I<...... ".! '. \. ~,_.'\ :::::. ~,,"I. '1~:'/ i ~:.?&fjI-;.._/.. ' ~.~ -':t<~:7::::oI• ..(·· ··.. ··\"V ~·...{I . . "\! ::;',: ...... ,,\ ...... / i .;' ... c·" \ ' '.' . :I: i ...... ;: ~~'.. ('." \ . ,\ d{/It \...... ~~ i '.' " · ... ..:: I !i' \\\~\ .; ;~_'C\' '" ,-_~),:", .... : . ·1·,·l···.i)ill·'·-::i:-·~'::··~·<:<'\J \ ... _.... --l.' -....;:' '.\'\' ... ~..: O '( f h <:'::::. .<:.. .," /P /~.'. l .. ..--:,;L.\.t"1 _::_... \ "11: . . · . !"'. ::', ,I ' ''''_' " I ///"...... : • /'/Ii' !; . " '. ;.'." \ ,.", • ...'.-.,,', L'~"- -" .. • i I~' ~ .' :' /"'...... -.//... .' . Ii' ,. ', ._ \ . ". ' . / . • .... l ."\.' ~/"r!."'." ...... 1 I...... i \ .r·,. ~·'L·· ··"'- \ ", ". .l · ...... i' _ ...... ',. •. _.... l/l. .' .' /\\ \ ...... _- " ,..... ""' '1/ •.I • / ... .'...... : i ZJ'I 'J""':''''~ ' 1...... • . ' -'• • • ...:,/ /]\I" .. ,;l7·' .. l l",... //,'" .// · 1"/ · '/'" . . ·./~'/ i ". .'/,f/~ . ,'. ,.'''-'.~·.~···/'~. r· ,---/-," ..' ...... i/ ':' ...... ,;,...... roO _,.. .r...... ' .. I '. - .__..~... , ••" ! •: ' ,./I, .'. .• " .,' • .' I .,.":: ... /' ..,I' t' ,,' .' . /// /:' . ,". .-/.'" ' .' \ .. i .. ,'" .. .. •I""'-~ .. . ,. • "C"...... '~:l :.' . :'0' ;';!.... . ,<-./ ./ /////,,'./ '" . ,'. ..''<,' 0~:... :". /.:./".- "... ' .. ~'. .,.' ./'"...... ' .., . ./...... "" ,..,...'.' ...... \ :// .. " i .,~:-:':-'::' '~'-A'J __.<:~}\ .... :~~:::;,::;:::;::::,::>"":.• . (5 ". .'1. .. ~ .. :--:.~\-', ... \ I , .::sl'~...A:!O: ...... _.. ,. . .~/. ."!.' .'''-...... ,__,.\ ~ '''--::. ••.. ~' \.. •. Tar-ou-7Il·"· .... _ .,....,gram • , • , • , " .' , , • • •• • • • , I " , , " " " ,e " , .' ., I, , ," , ", , ."., , • , " , , , , , " • , " , , , ., , , '. • , " .. I '. , •, , , " • , ,.' , , I • , • , , I' " , , , , " ,.' ,• , , , " , , " , , I • , ,.' , I " • , I 0 " , ", , • , • , , , .. , , , , .' •, , • , I • • , •• , • • • '. " • • 0' I " • , , ' " , t •••• .' , " " , .' , " I I · , • • , , .', " ," , ", " • , I, , • "I ·., , •, • o • • I , , , •• • o , • , • • , • , •, , •, " I • • • • " 0' , , • " , " , 0 " " , • • " , .• , • • ," • , , • " ," , • , I I , • " ", , , .. • • , , .' , • • '. " , • , • • , " , '" , I • ., .' , , '.• • . , " • I " , , , • '. " " , " , , • I , " " , , ".. " .­ ", • , , • •" , " , " I , " , • , • o , , ", , • f, •., -- • • , • I" , , , , , • I • ' , , • • • " " 0' . •.' , • , " • • , ,.' , " " ' I , " , •" , " •, " , , , ," , • I • ..! , , •, , " • , • • • . . , • , , '. • , , • •, , •• •• .- • • • I • • ,.' , " , " ••• • ,.- , " I , • • .11 , , " , , , " " , " ..' , , , , " " ", , , " , • .'•• , , " , , " I , , • •, - • , • , , , " ", , • , , -, ,,-- " ,,' .' -" " .' I' ' " • " , •• " " , , • I , • " • ", •" , .' " ", • , I .', " , , , , , o , , • , , " , , ." , • , • • " • , , , " , , , , , , • " ," , •" , , ,. • , • ," , " ", , , " t " , , .' • •, , · , .' ,, , " .. , • , ", , • • I, . "• , " , '. I , , • , • • , I , • ' • • • '. • , , • •• . , • • " r ar-nu.laluriJu PLATE XXVI

N ani badam kinar

Shetur-ni-nani kinar

. Shetur-ni-kinar PLATE XXVII

Block printed saris are popular among rural folk

APPENDICES

APPENDIX I TABLE I

Distribution of artisan communities

Name of Total No. of adult workers villages/towns -- Name of craft Caste or community surveyed No. of families Persons Males Females 1 2 3 4- 5 6 7 A-Block Printing Brahmaksbatriya Jetpur 5 l{- 12 2 Kumbhar 1 2 2 Total 6 16 14 2 B-Screen Printing Brahmakshatriya Jetpur 6 14 14 Musalman 5 12 12 Others 4 8 8 Total 15 34 34

TABLE n

Distribution of family members according to age, lex: and earning statas

Persons Males Females

Age group ---Workers Non-workers Total Workers Non-workers Totld Workers Non-workers Total 2 3 4- 5 6 7 8 9 10

A-BLoCK PRINTING 0-4- 8 8 7 7 5- 9 8 8 2 2 6 6 10-14 15-19 3 2 5 3 3 2 2 20-24 3 5 8 2 2 5 6 25-29 5 6 5 ~ 30-34 1 35-44 1 45-59 4- 3 7 3 3 3 4 60 & abOw. 2 2 2 2 Total 16 30 46 14 9 23 2 21 23 B-SCREEN PRINTING 0- 4 26 26 12 12 B B 5-9 23 23 17 17 6 6 10-14 23 23 14 14 9 9 15-19 1 15 16 1 7 8 II 8 . 20-24 9 11 20 9 2 11 9 9 25-29 7 10 17 7 2 9 8 8 30-34 6 5 11 6 7 4 4 35-44 6 6 12 6 7 5 5 45-59 { 5 9 4 4- 5 5 60 & above I 2 3 1 2 2 Total 34 116 160 34 56 90 70 70 63 64- APPENDIX I

TABLE III

Literacy according to age and sex ------Persoll.S ----Males Females Age'l:roup IL L l' S sse Total IL L l' S SSC Total IL------L P S SSCTotal 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 A-BLOCK PRIHTING

0- 4 8 .. S 7 ...... 7 1 1 5-9 4 3 1 .. 8 1 2 3 2 6 10-14 1 ., 1 1 .. .. 1 .. ., .. 15-19 3 .. 4- 2 2 1 .. 1 2 20-24 4 " 3 8 1 1 .. 2 3 3 6 25-29 5 .. 6 1 , . 4 .. .. 5 30-34 .;, ., 1 .. 1 ...... 35-H 1 .. .~ ...... 45-59 6 1 ' 7 2 1 3 ...... 4 " 4 60 & above 2 2 ' ...... 2 " .. 2 .Total 26 3 16 1 .. 46 12 1 9 1 .. 23 14 2 7 .. .. 23 B-SOREEN PRINTING

0- 4: 26 .. .. 26 12 ., ...... 12 a 14 9 5- 9 8 5 1 .. 23 6 6 4 .. 17 3 2 1 6 10-14 8 2 11 2 .. 23 4 7 2 .. 14 4 4 15-19 5 4 5 1 16 1 2 4 1 8 3 3 1 8 20-2~ 4- 7 6 2 20 4- 4 2 11 3 ] 3 2 .. 9 25-29 3 3 6 .do 17 4 3 9 3 2 2 8 30-34 2 1 6 11 1 " 2 5 7 1 4: 35-H 4: 2 5 .. 12 1 2 3 I .. 7 3 2 5 45-59 4- 4- 9 3 1 " 4 4 .. 5 60 & above 2 1 .. 3 2 ,., 2 Total 66 18 50 20 6160 26 10 33 16 5 90 40 8 17 4 1 70

NOTE I IL == Illiterate, L ..Literate, P ... Primary, S... Secondary, sse .Secolldary School Certificate Examination

TABLE IV

Composition of workers in the surveyed households

Total No. Total No. of persons of house. No. of house- employed in production Name of holds en- holds engag- ______villages/towns gaged in ing other Total No. of Total No. oloaer Name of craft surveyed the craft hired workers family members hired workers Total 1 2 3 4- 5 6 7 A-Block Printing Jetpur 6 of 16 15 31 B-Screen Printing Jetpur 15 15 34: 135 169 APPENDIX I 65

TABLE V

Cost or productioD, sale price aDd earnings, 1964

Cost of conversion Average sale price Average earning into finished product of finished per worker, COlt per piece per piece goods per day Name of article (in Rs.) (in Rs.) (in RI.) (in Rs.) J 2 :; 4 5 Printed Sari 5 yds. of 48 x 56 counts 5.25 8 or 9 10 5 or 6 per day 6 yds. of 4-8 x 56 counts 6.S0 10 or II 12 -<10-

TABLE VI

Designs

No. of households engaged in manu· facture indicating the sources from which they receive designs Name of designs and motifs Coope­ rative Flora Faun .. Name 01 Tradi. Self- sales Name of centre tional designed societies Geometrical Flowers Fruits Birds Animals Borders colour used

2 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Jetpur • • Vankiya, Flowers Shetur, Parrot, Elephant, Single-patti. Brown, Red, Navi laber, J uivel, Bandhani- Sparrow, Tiger. kinar, Golden, Blue, Chokdi lab:r, Ratrani, keri, Peacock Lion, Shetur-ni- Green, Gray, Zini cbokdi, Creepers, Moti­ Horse, kinar, Ful Blue, Indigo Single laber, Chameli, keri, Human kinar, Violet, Tar-nu-chillar, Champak, Double- figure Angur kinar, Indigo Pink, Tar-nu-Iaheriyu, K.aran, keri viz., Nakshi kinar, Indigo Tar.nu-laber­ Asopalav. Putali Deepak .anar, Golden, chakkar, Pipal. Vad, Dhaka palav, etc. Dam laher, Vantol Taj-ni-kinar T ar.nu.mono­ cram, Zigzag, Tar-ni-chokdi. Dotl, Single .tar, Rai dano, Liti laber

• Innumerable designs are round in the printed fAbrics of Jetpur. The artisana, besides traditional designs, produce Dew designs according to the fashions and changes in the tastes or the people. G-9 66 APPENDIX I TABLE vn List of skilled craftsmen or each community

Narne of Centre N aDle of craft Names of the community Names of skilled craftsmen 2 3

Jetpur Block Printing Brahmakshatriya Bachubhai Tapan Bhikhabhai Mulji Anandbhai Makanbhai AhmcdJi Usmanji Mahadev Laxman Kamle Kumbha J aysukhabhai Jivanbhai Khatri Surathiya Dhalubhai Bhojraj Sc,\een Printing Brabmakshatriya Champaklal Parshottam Popat Karshan Bhanu Natha Popatlal Manilal Babu Mohan Musahnan Ibrahim :Raheman Jamal Raheman Abdul Gafar Addul Majij Otbers Bhanu Natha Jekar Osman Odha Vashram Jeram Nanll VaJlta Laxmim APPENDIX II Unstructured Biogll'aphies

BIOGRAPHY NO. I NAME : Ahmedji Usmanji; AGE : 57; DESIGNATION : Dyer; ADDRESS : Jagdish Textile Dyeing and Printing Works, Station Road, Jetpur, District Rajkot

My father Usmanji had migrated to Ahmeda­ Rs. 350. In 1949, I came to Jetpur with Bachu­ bad (Gujarat) from village Pipad of Jodhpur bhai Sheth on the Same pay and post but left district (Marwar) on foot and started the tradi­ the job in 1954 on account of difference of tional dyeing and printing work of our fore­ opinion with staff members. I then spen tone fathers on a small scale with the help of a year in the prin ting establishment of Hajibhai friend. Then he decided to go to Africa with Sultanbhai Suratwa1a, near Jamalpur Darwaja, his friend but after all arrangements were made, Ahmedabad as a dyer on a -salary of Rs. 300 the friend refused to go and so he left Ahmeda­ per month. Again I cha;ged the unit. I am bad and went to Nana Varachha, two miles serving since last 3 years on the same salary in from Surat where the dyeing and printing work Ismail Abdul Rahemanji Kukdawala's printing was available on piece-wage basis and from work near Calico Mill, Ahmeda bad. Thereafter where printed fabrics were exported. At that I served the National Studio, Calcutta time I was a child of 1 year. I was born in as a dyer on Rs. 350 per month. In this Samvat 1907 and my birthplace is Ahmedabad. studio, advertisements were printed on cloth. I took my primary education in village school Again I joined Jagdish Textile Dyeing and of Nana Varachha and educated myself up to Printing Works, Jetpur as a dyer on the first standard in Model High School, Ahmeda­ same salary in 1962 and am still working here. bad. Then I left studies because of weak finan­ I remember that before the establishment of cial position of my family. During my child­ this factory in Jetpur there were only 4-5 small :hood, I was helping my father but at the age units working for block printing and one unit 14-15, we returned to Ahmedabad again in for screen printing. The monthly income of an search of work. During the slack season, i.e., in artisan which is Rs. 150-200 per month noW monsoon, I was serving in mill and stuck to that was only Rs. 45-80 at that time. The industry job for 4 years. At the time of boycott move­ has concentrated and developed here becauseof ment of foreign goods, a dyer, Shri Ahmedji Bhadar river, the water of which is very suitable Kelawala who wasserving in one of the factories for the development of designs and colours. at Bombay, started an independent establishment I have one elder brother, Shri Nabibaksh of printing work at Alunedabad. Roundabout who is now enjoying retired life at the age of . 1932, I came into contact with him and was 80. He had an independent establishment of his attracted to him to know more details of print­ own for dyeing and printing in Ahmedabad. He ing work. This led to my leaving the mill-job. was born by the first wife of my father. After her Another friend of mine, Shri Deod Noora, who death, my father remarried my mother who. had his own printing establishment near Calico is from Marwar. After the death of my father, Mill also recommended my name to -Shri Cklrdhan­ my mother has remarried. My brother went to· das Bosamiya or Bachubhai, the owner of a Rangoon thrice for trade but he was compelled printing factory at Bombay. Ijoined that fac­ to change his decision to settle there J tory in 1939 as a dyer on a monthly salary of because of riots of Hindu and Burmese. The 67 68 APpKNDlI II marriages of all of my 3 sisters took place in I am a Chhipa MuSlim by caste. About our Ahmedabad and they are happy. At the age of caste it is said that Chiloji the ruler of Nagor 20, I married and today I am the father of 3 fort, courted Islam voluntarily at the request of sons and 3 daughters. Two of my sons who 3re the Moghul Emperor. Our ancestors were thus married are serving in a mill at Ahmedabad. converted into Mohammedans. Of dallghters, two who are married at Ahmeda­ bad and Dholka, one has recently become widow At the age of 17 or 18 years, I was suffering because her husband working in dyeing and from tumour but was cured immediately after printing died of sudden heart attack. My third medical treatment. During leisure hours, I read son is working as a designer here in Jyoti Tex­ books on textiles and try to learn new theories tile Dyeing and Printing Industry, Jetpur. He of dyeing and printing. I also attend namaz has passed the drawing examInation in R.C. twice a day and read religious books. All my Technical High School, Ahmedabad. colleagues respect me. 1 smoke and take tea. BIOGRAPHY NO. II

NAMR : Mahadev Laxman Kamle; AGE : 28 years; DESIGNATION: Screen designer and maker; ADDRESS: American Screen Printery, Gondal Darvaja, Narsinhji Temple, Jetpur, Diltrict Rajkot

I do not remember I the exact date of my cut screen and Rs. 20 for photographic screen. birth but I was born in November or December In all I can earn Rs. 400 per month. of 1936 in Khar (Bombay). Our native place is In a h and-cut screen of 18" x 48", lac is first Nanglol near Shrivardhan Bandars of Colaba applied on wax paper. The required sketch is District. Out of my two elder brothers, one is then drawn and cut with the help of a cutttr. s~rving in Railway Department as a fireman and The wax paper is put on the frame. The design the second is engaged in making cabinets of sticks to the cloth because of melting of wax due Murphy Radios. I am working in American to heating while ironing with an electric press. Screen Printery, Jetpur, as screen designer and Four coatings of enamel-oil colours are applied to maker on piece-wage basis. All of my three this cutting for protection against colour, chemi­ sisters are married and happy. cals and washing of screen by water pump and I have studied up to two standards of Marathi brush after its use. language in Dadar Municipal School Bombay. In photographic screen, the design of 9" x 9" But in 1942, on account of poor financial or 12" x 12" is drawn on Kodak paper and the condition of my family, I left. the school and same is exposed on a frame after applying the . worked as a waiter in Hindu Vishranti Hotel, developing solution to it. For exposure, a small Bombay. At the age of 13, I worked as a coolie studio equipped with light-box and washing on railway stations in Bombay where I 'A-as equipment is required. The design is exposed earning Rs. 3 to 5 daily. frequen tly on the frame to cover· an area of On 15th June, 1947 I joined Mahesh Art 18" x48" of the screen. In photographic screen, the Printing Works, Kandivali, Bombay. In the labour of cutting 18" x 48" screen is saved and beginning I was getting Rs. 15 per month printing accuracy is maintained in the repita­ but in 1959 when I left the job, I was drawing tion of designs and motifs. Rs.120 per month. Shri Dhirubhai Panchamia, the proprietor of Dilip Screen Supplier, Jetpur, My father died in 194-8. I stay in Jetpur met me in Bombay and brought me here on a with my mother. My marriage took place on 1st mon thly salary of Rs. 160 which rose to Rs. March, 1961 and my wife gives me inspiration 230 in the fourth year of my service there. in drawing the designs and cooperation-in the During this period, I had become a very work relating to screen cutti~gand making. There skilled artisan in ~creen designing and cutting. are about 10 Maharashtrian families engaged I, therefore, expressed my desire to work inde­ in this work. In ~aharashtra a screen is cut at pendently on piecework b~sis. As my wish the rate of Re. 0.75, and here it pays Rs. 3. was granted, I worked there for Ii years and In this work ladies also help by augmenting left the job on account of some misunderstand­ the family income as also by saving the ing with my colleagues. I wandered without work time of artist. My son died on the 7th day for two to three months. r contacted Shri Magan­ after birth, but I am resigned to the Will lalbhai, the owner of American Screen Printery, of God and try to live a happy married life.

Jetpur for employment and started working for f I smoke and take tea. Sometimes I visit cinema him on piece-wage basis. I get Rs. 13 for hand- house and also go for a walk in the garden.

69

GLOS SAa y

A G-contd.

Akhrot A walnut; Aleurites moUuccana Gllisi A mark AngadiJIa Private agency undertaking the Ghodi Wooden stand transport of goods from one place Golmuthryu A nail shaped chisel to another through persons engaged Gonlo or Thapdi · A maIlet by it. GUT Jagcery Angur • A ripe grapej Vilis vinifera · An A saw H Asopafav • A tree which is evergreen; JOTltsia Hathodi . A hammer asoka J B JoDi A creeper bearing sweet smelling Bajari • Millet white flowers; Jasminum auriculatum BandhaAi Tie and dye sari Bangala • A variety of hand-printed textile K Berja A tree; Fmt/a llabriniflua Kamal A lotus Bhajan A devotional song Kanas A file Bhat Design or print Kaman Jute cloth Bhayat A kinsman of a ruling chief . Kapla or Kaplo A piece of wood for engraving Bhiflq A vice Karval A saw Bidi IndigenoUJ cigarette Katha · A religious discourse Borsal; • A tree; Mimusops elengi Khadi Hand-spun and hand-woven cloth Bufi A small design of flower painted or Kina, Border embroidered on cloth Kinkhab • . Silk or gold brocade cloth c Kothmi, • A plant; Coriandrum sativum

Cllllmpak • A flower tree; Michelia Champ~a L Ch_/i A jasmine flower of creeper; LoJuria Printed cloth having waVy line. Ja.minum grandijlorum Chhado • A handle M Chkidri . A variety of design printed on lari Chinai paper Tracing paper Masarvu Process of smoothening the surface Chokdi Check design MDgra The jasmine flower;Jasminums(J,mh~ Chora.i • • A aquare chisel Mokh A guide point for printing

D N

Darshan • Glimpse of deity with reverence Namaz Muslim prayers and prayer 0 Datla or Datlu • Sublidiary block Deodar or Devdar Devdar wood; Cedrus deorJ.,a Ota Raised platform; plinth Devi Goddess Dism;, • A screwdriver p

F lakad Plim Palav End of the sari Farsi • A chisel Pankora • COlrse cloth G Pal A large wooden bench Pipal A tree; Ficus rtligiosa Galo A sari having printed horder and Pishvis . Temple cloth patav PIIUtJ Solidly built; durable ahani. Oil crusher Pllt/i 0011_ 7I 72 GLOSSARY

&-Ionld.

Rajan . Rosin Sodagari Dealing in valuable merchandise Randho • Carpenter'. plane Soma The moon Ratrani • • A flower plant; Cestrum noclurnum Surya The sun Rekh Main block T R,JIdanq Mustard Iced Taka A full piece of cloth measuring 20 J to ,40 yarcia. Tali A net of bamboo strips Sag Teak wood; Tectona grandis Tankna A graver Sagi patli Hard timber Taramandal A group of Itars Sakkar·teti MUlk-melon Thasa • A sharp edged engraving tool A type of chisel Sari • A Hindu woman's chief garment TithaniJu draped round the body Tran pankhadi A design having three petals Sat A set V Shardi A drill ' Vad A banyan tree; Ficus indica Shlwr A mulberry tree or itl fruit l ,MoTUS Vansalo An adze inIlica Vel A creeper Shighro. Avice \ , W Sodagar A trader; a 1l1e'r~hant who deals In valuable merchandise Wadh Uneven wooden piece INDEX

A E Abdul Taiyab Ismailji, 6 Earnings, 19 Ahmedabad, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 17, 51 Economic characteristics, 19, 53 Akhil Bharat Khadi Gramodyog Board, 18, 23 Economic status, 20 All-India Handicrafts Board, Bombay, 17, 22, 23, 56 Ellora, 7 Ambaliyasan, 3 England, 4 ~ia Minor, 4 Estllbli~hments, 39 Assam, 50 Europe, 4 Atmaram Pochalal, 6 F Aurangabad, 7 Family worker$, 8 Aurangzeb, 4 Farukabad, 3, 17 B Felt needs, 58 Finished products, 51 Bangala, 6, 15 Bejwada,51 G Bengal, 15, 17, 50,51 Bhadar, 36, 48 Gandhidham, 5 Ghisi,48 Bhagwan Parshottam, 6 Gondal, 5 Bhamagar,5 GGtilo or thopdi, 13 Bhuj,5 Bhupendra Dyeing, 6 Government Training Schools and Institutions, 23 Govind Moti, 6 • Bibawala Sahakari Mandali Ltd., Pethapur, 4, 22 Bihar, 50 H Block Printing, 35 Haribhai Gangaram, 6 -Development of, 38 Harappa, 33 Bombay, 3, 4, 5, 6, 17, 51 Hired workers, 8 Bombay Dyeing, 6 Historical background, 5 Boycott of foreign goods, 6 Hong Kong, 51 C I Calcutta, 51 Income, 20, 53 Capital investment, 13, 19, 53 Indian Oak, 11 Caste and community, 7, 38 Indore, 51 Chand Ali, 6 Indroda, 7 Charkam buto, 16 Introduction, 3, 33 Chhidri, 5, 6, 15 Iran, 5 Chhipa,38 Chhotubhai Chhipa, 6 J Colours and chemicals, 42, 43 Jagadish Textile Dyeing and Printing Works, 39 Conclusion, 58 Jamnagar, 5, 17 Consumers' Cooperative Society, Pethapur, 4 Jaitawala, 36 Co.t of production, 19, 53 Japan, 4, 13, 36 Cost structure and returns, 53 J. P. Textile Dyeing and Printing Works, 39 Craft and craftsmen, 37, 38, 39 Jetpur, 3, 5, 8, 17, 36, 42, 44, 51 D Jetpur Rangat Udyog Screen Print Cooperative Society, 56 Jetpur Rangat Chhapkam Udyog Sahakari Mandali Dat/a, 14, 15 Ltd., 56 Delhi, 51 , Jungle Kamdar Cooperative Societies, Surat, 23 Designs, 15, 48,49 DiamondJubilee Cottage Industries Institution, Baroda, 22 K Director of Industries, Ahmedabad, 13 Kala Bhavan, 22 Dyeing and developing of printed cloth, 48 Kalol, 3, 4, 5, 7, 22 Dyers and Printers' Cooperative Society, Pethapur, 4 Kanpur, 51 73 G-IO 74 INDEX

K-contd. s Kaplo, 13, 14, 15 Sabarmati, 3, 4- Karim Yaru, 6 Sagi Patli, 11, 13 Khadi Gramodyog Board, 23 Sardhav, 7, 17, 22 Khatri, 37 Saurashtra Small Scale Industries Cooperativ~ Bank Ltd., Kolwada,7 Rajkot, 56 . .[.. Screen Printing, 39 Literacy, 10, 40 -Development of, 39 Location of centres, 3, 36 Shikarpur, 5 M Siam, 6 Madhya Pradesh, 11 Sidhpur,5 Madras, 15, 17, 50, 51 Sindh,5 MaganIaJ Harchand, 6 Singapore, 51 Maharashtra, 3, 15, 17 Size and structure, 8 Manchester of India, 4 Sodagari, 6, 15 Mansa,3 State Industrial Cooperative Association, 56 Marketing, 17, 51 Sukhadia or Sokhda Mahadev, 4 Matd Mata, 41 Sukhda or Sokhda, 4 Meerut, 17 Surat, 6, 11 Mehsana District Cooperative Bank, 22 Surveyed households, 29 Migration, 7, 39 Suthar, 7 Modhera,5 Mohenjo-daro, 33 T Mogul regime, 4, Tali, 45 Mokhasan, 7, 17,22 Technique, 13, 14, 45, 48 Muslin cloth, 42 Thasa, 14- Mysore, 11 The Calico Mill, 4 N 'The mart of the world', 4 National Highway No. 8-B, 5 The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, 34 National Institute for Industrial Design, Ahmedabad, 22 The Regional Design Development Centre, Bombay, 22 National Movement, 6 The Small Indvstries Service Institute, 5 Non·workers, 20 'Three threads', 4 North Africa, 4- Tokyo, 51 North Kanara, II Tools and implements, 13, 44, 45, 47, 48 o Total production, 53 Osaka, 51 Traditional artisans, 38 p Training, 56 Patan, 5 Tribhovan Khushal, 6 Personal characteristics, 10 u Pethapur, 3, '4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 15, 16, Ii, Pithadia, 36 Umarpada, II Porbandar, 5 Unau, 7 Potato Growers' Cooperative Society, Pethapur, 4 Uttar Pradesh, 3, 17 Printing charges, 54 Prototype Centre, 5 v Pruthuraj or Pithuraj, 4- Vasna, 6, 7 R Vijapur,3 R. Ptister, 33 Vishvakarma, 7, 19 Rajkot, 3, 5, 8, 17, 51 Vividh Karyakari Sahakari Mandali, Pethapur, 4 Randheja, 3, 7 w Rangoon, 51 Raw materials, 11, 42 Wadh, 13 Recreational activities, 41 Wage structure, 54 Registrar of Cooperative Societies, Ahmedabad, 13 Wankaner, 5 Regional preferences, 50 Western Ghats, tl Rekh, 14, 15 Workers, 20 Residential pattern, 8 Working conditions, 8 Rupal, 7, 22 Workshops and dwellings, 40 LIST OF AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF GOVERNMENT OF INDIA PUBLICATIONS AS ON 17-2-1964 AGARTALA- S. S. Book Emporium, 118, Mount Joy Road Laxmi Bhandar Books & Scientific Sales (R) The Bangalore Press, Lake View, Mysore Road, AGRA- P. O. Box 507 National Book House, Jeoni Mandi The Standard Book Depot, Avenue Road Wadhawa & Co., 45, Civil Lines Vichara Sahitya Private Ltd., BaJepet Banwari Lal Jain, Publishers, Moti Katra (R) Makkala Pustaka Press, Balamandira, Gandhinagar English Book Depot, Sadar Bazar, Agra Cantt. (R) Maruthi Book Depot, Avenue Road (R) International Book House Private Ltd., Mahatma AHMADNAGAR- 4-F, Gandhi Road V. T. Jorakar, Prop., Rama General Stores, Navi Navakamataka Puhns. Private Ltd., Majestic Circle (R) Path (R) BAREILLY- AHMEDABAD- Agarwal Brothers, Bara Bazar Balgovind Kuber Dass & Co., Gandhi Road BARODA- Chandra Kant Chiman Lal Vora, Gandhi Road Shri Chandrakant Mohan Lal Shah, Raopura (R) New Order Book Co., Ellis Bridge Good Companions Booksellers, Publishers & Sub­ Mahajan Bros., Opp., Khadia Police Gate (R) Agent (R) Sastu Kitab Ghar, Near Relief Talkies, Patthar Kuva, New Medical Book House, 540, Madan Zampa Road (R) Relief Road BEAWAR- f\JMER- The Secretary, S. D. College, Co-operative Stores Book-Land, 663, Madar Gate Ltd. (R) Rajputana Book House, Station Road BELGHARIA- Law Book House, 271, Hathi Bhata Granthlok, Antiquarian Booksellers & Publishers Vijay Bros., Kutchery Road (R) (24-Parganas), 5/1 Amlica Mukherjee Road Krishna Bros., Kutchery Road (R) BHAGALPUR- ALIGARH- Paper Stationery Stores, D. N. Singh Road Friend's Book House, Muslim University Market BHOPAL- Superintendent, State Government Press ALLAHABAD- Lyall Book Depot, Mohd. Din Bldg., Sultania Road Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, U. P. Delite Books, Opp., Bhopal Talkies (R) Kitabistan, 17-A, Kamla Nehru Road Law Book Co., Sardar Patel Marg, P. Box 4 BHUBANESWAR- Ram Narain Lal Beni Modho, 2-A, Katra Road Ekamra Vidyabhaban, Eastern Tower, Room No.3 (R) Universal Book Co., 20, M. G. Road BIjAPUR- The University Book Agency (of Lahore), Elgin Shri D. V. Deshpande, Recognised Law Booksellers, Prop. Road Vinod Book Depot, Near Shiralshetti Chowk (R) Wadhwa & Co., 23, M. G. Marg (R) BlKANER- Bharat Law House, 15, Mahatma Gandhi Marg (R) Bhandani Bros. (R) Ram Narain Lal Beni Prashad, 2-A, Katra Road (R) BILASPUR- AMBALA- Sharma Book Stall, Sadar Bazar (R) English Book Depot, Ambala Gantt. BOMBAY- Seth Law House, 8719, Railway Road, AmhaJa Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, Queens Road Cantt. (R) ~, Charles Lambert & Co., 101, Mahatma Gandhi Road Co-operator's Book Depot, 5/32, Ahmed Sailor AMRITSAR- Bldg., Dadar The Law Book Agency, G. T. Road, Putligarh Current Book House, Maruti Lane, Raghunath S. Gupta, Agent, Govt. Publications, Near P. O. Dadaji St. Majith Mandi Current Technical Literature Co., Private Ltd., India Amar Nath & Sons, Near P. O. Majith Mandi House, lst Floor ANAND- International Book House Ltd., 9, Ash Lane, M. G. Road Vijaya Stores, Station Road (R) Lakkani Book Depot. Girgaum Charotar Book Stall, Tulsi Sadan, Stn. Road (R) Elpees Agencies, 24, Bhangwadi, Kalbadevi ASANSOL- P. P. H. Book Stall, 190-B, Khetwadi Main Road D.N. Roy & R.K. Roy Booksellers, Atwal Building (R) New Book Co. 188-190, Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road BANGALORE- Popular Book Depot, Lamington Road The Bangalore Legal Practitioner Co-operative Sunder Da\ Gian Chand, GOl, Gitgaum R.oad, Near Society Ltd., Bar Association Building Princess Street List of Agents~ontd.

BOMBAY-COlltd. English Book Shop, 34, Sector 22-D (R) Mehta Bros., 15-Z, Sector 22-B (R) D. B. Taraporewala Sons & Co., (P) Ltd., 210, Tandan Book Depot, Shopping Centre, Sector 16 (R) Dr. Dadabhai Naoroji Road Kailash Law Publishers, Sector 22-B (R) Thacker & Co., Rampart Row N. M. Tripathi Private Ltd., Princess Strttt CHHINDWARA- The Kothari Book Depot, King Edward Road The Verma Book Depot (R) P. H. Rama Krishna & Sons, 147, Rajaram Bhuvan, COCHIN- Shivaji Park Road No.5 (R) Sara5Wat Corporation Ltd., Palliarakav Road C. Jamnadas & Co., Booksellers, 146-C, Princess St. Indo Nath & Co .• A-6, Daulat Nagar, Borivii CUTTACK- Minerva Book Shop, Shop No. 1/80, N. Subhas Road Press Officer, Orissa Sectt. Academic Book Co., Association Building, Girgaum Cuttack Law Tinles Road (R) Prabhat K. Mahapatra, Mangalabag, P.B. 35 Dominion Publishers, 23, Bell Building, Sir P. M. D. P. Sur &. Sons, Mangalabag (R) Road (R) Utkal Stores, Balu Bazar CR) Bombay National History Society, 91 Walkeshwar DEHRADUN-' (R) Road Jugal Kishore & Co., Rajpur Road Dowamadeo & Co., 16, Naziria Building, Ballard National News Agency, Paltan Bazar Estate (R) \ Bishan Singh and Mahendra Pal Singh, 318, Asian Trading Co., 310, the Miraball, P.B. 1505 (R) Chukhuwala CALCUTTA- Utam Pustak Bhandar, Paltan Bazar (R) ChatteIjee & Co., 3/1, Bacharam Chatterjee Lane DELHI- Dass Gupta & Co., Ltd., 54/3, College Street J. M. Jaina & Brothers, Mori Gate Hindu Library, 69.A, Bolaram De Street Atma Ram & Sons, Kashmere Gate S. K. Lahiri & Co., Private Ltd., College Street Federal Law Book Depot, Kashmere Gate M. C. Sarkar & Sons Private Ltd., 14, Bankim Bahri Bros., 188, Lajpat Rai Market Chatteljee Street Bawa Harkishan Dass Bedi (Vijaya General Agencies) W. Newman & Co., Ltd., 3, Old Court House Street P.B.2027, Ahata Kedara, Chamalian Road Oxford Book and Stationery Co., 17, Park Street Book-Well, 4, Sant Narankari Colony, P. B. 1565 R. Chambray & Co., Ltd., Kent House, P. 33, Mission Imperial Publishing Co., 3, Faiz Bazar, Daryaganj Road Extension Metropolitan Book Co., 1, Filiz Bazar S. C. Sarkar & Sons Private Ltd., I.C. College Square Publication Centre, Subzimandi Thacker Spink & Co., (1933) Private Ltd., 3, Esplanade Youngman &. Co., Nai Sarak, East Indian Army Book Depot, 3, Daryaganj Firma K. L. Mukhopadhaya, 611A, Banchha Ram All India Educational Supply Co., Shri Ram Buildings, Ahar Lane Jawahar Nagar (R) K. K. Roy, P. BOx No. 10210, Calcutta-19 (R) Dhanwant Medical & Law Book House, 1522, Sm. P. D. Upadb'lay, 77, Muktaram Babu Street (R) Lajpat Rai Market (R) Universal Book Dist., 8/2, Hastings Street (R) University Book House, 15, U. B. Bangalore Road, Modern Book ~pot, Chowringhee Centre (R) Jawahar Nagar (R) Soor & Co., 125, Canning Street Law Literature House, 2646, Balimaran (R) S. Bhattacharjee, 49, Dharamtala Street (R) Summer Brothers, P. O. Birla Lines (R) MukheIjee Library, 10, Sarba Khan Road Universal Book &... Stationery Co., 16, Netaji Current Literature Co., 208, Mahatma Gandhi Road ,Subhash Marg The Book Depository, 4/1, Madan Street (1st Floor) (R) B. Nath & Bros., 3808, Charkhawalan (Chowri Scientific Book Agency, Netaji Subhash Road (R) Bazar) (R) Reliance Trading Co., 17/1, Banku Bihari Ghose Lane, Rajkamal Prakashan Private Ltd., 8, Faiz Bazar District Rowrah (R) Premier Book Co., Printers, Publishers & Booksellers, Indian Book Dist. Co., 6512, Mahatma Gandhi Road (R) Nai Sarak (R) . CALI CUT- Universal Book Traders, 80, Gokhle Market Touring Book Stall CR) Tech. & Commercial Book Coy., 75, Gokhle CHANDIGARH- Market (R) Saini Law Publishing Co., 1416, Chabiganj, Kashmere Superintendent, Government Printing & Stationery, Punjab Gate (R) Jain Law Agency, Flat No.8, Sector No. 22 G. M. Ahl\ia, Booksellers & Stationers, 309, Nehru Bazar (R) Rarna News Agency, Booksellers, Sector No. 22 Sat Narain &. Sons, 3141 MQhd. Ali Bazar, Morl Universal Book Store, Booth 25, Sector 22-D Gate

ji List of Agcnts-contd.

DELHI-eontd. JABALPUR- Kitab Mahal (Wholesale Div.) Private Ltd., 28, Faiz Bazar Modem Book House, 286, Jawaharganj Hindu Sahitya Sansar, Nai Sarak (R) National Book House, 135 Jai Prakash Narain Marg (R) Munshi Ram Manohar Lal, Oriental Booksellers JAIPUR- & Publishers, P. B. 1165, Nai Sarak (R) Government Printing and Stationery Department, K. L. Seth, Suppliers of Law, Commercial, Tech. Rajasthan Books, Shanti Nagar, Ganeshpura (R) Bharat Law House, Booksellers & Publishers, Opp., Adarsh Publishing Service, 5A/IO Ansari Road (R) Prem Prakash Cinema DHANBAD- Garg Book Co., Tripolia Bazar Ismag Co-operative Stores Ltd., P. O. Indian School Vani Mandir, Sawai Mansingh Highway of Mines Kalyan Mal & Sons, Tripolia Bazar (Rl New Sketch Press, Post Box 26 (R) Popular Book Depot, Chaura Rasta Krishna Book Depot, Chaura Rasta (R) DHARWAR- Dominion Law Depot, Shah Building, P.B. No. 23 (R) The Agricultural College Consumers Co-op. Society (R) Rameshraya Book Depot, Subhas Road (R) JAMNAGAR- Karnatakaya Sahitya Mandira of Publishers and' Swadeshi Vastu Bhandar Booksellers JAMSHEDPUR- ERNAKULAM- Amar Kitab Ghar, Diagonal Road, P. B. 78 Pai & Co., Cloth Bazar Road (R) Gupta Stores, Dhatkidih South India Traders C/o Constitutional Journal Sanyal Bros., Booksellers & News Agents, Bistapur FEROZEPUR- Market (R) English Book Depot, 78, Jhoke Road JAWALAPUR- GAUHATI- Sahyog Book Depot (R) Mokshada Pustakalaya JHUNJHUNU- GAYA- Shashi Kumar Sarat Chand (R) Sahitya Sadan, Gautam Budha Marg Kaprarn Prakashan Prasaran, 1/90 Namdha Niwas, Azad GHAZIABAD- Marg (R) Jayana Book Agency (R) JODHPUR- GORAKHPUR- Dwarka Das Rathi. Wholesale Books and News Agents Vishwa Vidyalaya Prakashan, Nakhes Road Kitab-Ghar, Sojati Gate Choppra Brothers, Tripolia Bazal' GUDUR- The General Manager, The N.D,C. Publishing & Ptg. JULLUNDUR- Society Ltd. (R) Hazooria Bros., Mai Hiran Gate (R) GUN1UR- Jain General House, Bazar Bansanwala Book Lovers Private Ltd., Kadriguda, Chowrasta University Publishers, Railway Road (R) GWALIOR- KANPUR- Superintendent, Printing & Stationery, M.B. Loyal Book Depot, Patankar Bazar, Lashkar Advani & Co., P. Box lOa, The Mall M. C. Daftari, Prop. M. B.Jain & Bros., Sahitya Niketan, Shradhanand Park Booksellers, Sarafa, Lashkar (R) The Universal Book Stall, The Mall HUBLI- Raj Corporation, Rllj House, P. B. 200, Chowk (R) Pervaje's Book House, Koppikar Road KARUR- HYDERABAD- Shri V. Nagaraja Rao, 26, Srinivasapuram (R) Director, Government Press KODARMA- The Swaraj Book Depot, Lakdikapul The Bhagwati Press, P.O. Jhumri Tilaiya, Dt.Hazaribag Book Lovers Private Ltd. (R) KOLHAPUR- Labour Law Publications, 873, Sultan Bazar (R) Maharashtra Granth Bhandar, Mahadwar Road (R) IMPHAL- KOTA- Tikendra & Sons, Booksellers (R) I{ota Book Depot (R) INDORE- KUMTA- Wadhwa & Co., 56, M. G. Road S. V. Kamat, Booksellers & Stationers (N. Kanara) Swarup Brother's, Khajuri Bazar (R) \ LUCKNOW- Madhya Pradesh Book Centre, 41, Ahilya Pura (R) r Modem Book House, Shiv Vilas Palace (R) Soochna Sahitya Depot (State Book Depot) Navyug Sahitya Sadan, Publishers & Booksellers Balkrishna Book Co., Ltd" Hazratganj 10, Khajuri Bazar (R) , British Book Depot, 84, Hazratganj List of Agents-c,nld.

LUCKNOW-ecllld. Geeta Book House, Booksellers & Publishers Krishna­ Ram Advani, Hazratganj, P. B. 154 murthipuram (R) Universal Publishers (P) Ltd., Hazratganj News Paper House, Lansdowne Building (R) Eastern Book Co., Lalbagh Road Indian Mercantile Corporation, Toy Palace Ramvilas(R) Civil & Military Educational Stores, 1061B Sadar Bazar (R) NADIAD- Acquarium Supply Co., 213, Faizabad Road (R) R. S. Delay Station Road (R) Law Book Mart, Amin-Ud-Daula Park (R) NAGPUR- LUDHIANA- Superintendent, Government Press & Book Depot Lyall Book Depot, Chaura Bazar Western Book Depot, Residency Road Mohindra Brothers, Katcheri Road (R) The Asstt. Secretary, Mineral Industry Association, Nanda Stationery Bhandar, Pustak Bazar (RY Mineral House (R) The Pharmacy News, Pindi Street (R) NAINITAL- Coural Book Depot, Bara Bazar (R) MADRAS- NANDED- Superintendent, Government Press, Mount Road Book Centre, College Law General Books, Station Account Test Institute, P. O. 760 Emgore Road (R) C. Subbiah Chetty & Co., Triplicane Hindustan General Stores, Paper & Stationery K. Krishnamurty, POll t Box 384 Merchants, P. B. No. 51 (R) Presidency Book Supplies, 8, Pycroft Road, Triplicane Sanjoy Book Agency, Vazirabad (R) P. Vardhachary & Co., 8, Li~ghi Chetty Street NEW DELHI- Palani Parchuram, 3, Pycrofts Road, Triplicane Amrit Book Co., Connaught Circus NCBH Private Ltd., 199, Mount Road (R) Bhawani & Sons, 8-F, Connaught Place V. Sad:mand, The Personal Bookshop, 10, Congress Central News Agency, 23/90, Connaught Circus Buildings,1Il, Mount Road (R) Empire Book Depot, 278 Aliganj English Book Stores, 7-L, Connaught Circus, P.O.B. 328 MADURAI- Faqir Chand & Sons, I5.A, Khan Market Oriental Book House, 258, West Masi Street Jain Book Agency, Prem House, Connaught Place Vivekananda Press, 48, West Masi Street e-9, Oxford Book & Stationery Co., Scindia House MANDYA SUGAR TOWN- Ram Krishna & Sons (of Lahore) 16/B, Connaught Place K. N. Narimhe Gowda & Sons (R) Sikh Publishing House, 7·C, Connaught Place MANGALORE- Suneja Book Centre, 24190, Connaught Circus U. R. Shenoye Sons, Car Street, P. Box 128 United Book Agency, 3.1, Municipal Market, MANJESHWAR- Conn aught Circus Mukenda Krishna Nayak (R) Jayana Book Depot, Chhaparwala Kuan, Karol Bagh MATHURA- Navayug Traders, Desh Bandhu Gupta Road, Dev :Nagar Rath & Co., Tilohi Building, Bengali Ghat (R) Saraswati Book Depot, 15, Lady Harding Road MEERUT- The Secretary, Indian Met. Society, Lodi Road Prakash Educational Stores, Subhas Bazar New Book Depot, Latest Books, Periodicals, Sty. & Hind Chiotra Press, West Kutehery Road Novelles, P. B. 96, Connaught Place Mehra Brothers, 50~G, Kalkaji Loyal Book Depot, Chhipi Tank Luxmi Book Stores, 42, Janpath (R) Bharat Educational Stores, Chhippi Tank (R) Hindi Book House, 82, Janpath (Rl Universal Book Depot, Booksellers & News People Publishing House (P) Ltd., Rani Jhansi Road Agents (R) R. K. Publishers, 23, Beadon Pura, Karol Bagh (R) MONGHYR- Sharma Bros., 17, New Market, Moti Nagar Anusandhan, Minerva Press Buildings (R) Aapki Dukan, 5/5777, Dev Nagar (R) MUSSOORIE- Sarvodaya Service, 66A-l, Rohtak Road, P. B. 2521 (R) Cambridge Book Depot, The Mall (R) H. Cbandson, P. B. No. 3034 (R) Hind Traders (R) The Secretary, Federation of Association of Small MUZAFF ARNAGAR- Industry of India, 23-B/2, Rohtak Road (R) Mittal & Co., 85-C, New Mandi (R) Standard Booksellers & Stationers, Palarn Enclave (R) B. S. Jain & Co., 71, Ahupura (Rl Lakshmi Book Depot, 57, Regarpura (R) MUZAFFARPUR- Sant Ram Booksellers, 16, New Municipal Market, Scientific & Educational Supply Syndicate Lody Colony (R) Leg~ Corner, Tikmanio House, Amgola Road (R) PANJIM- Tirhl t Book Depot (R) Singhals Book House P.O.B. 70 Near the Church (R) Bagoon Gaydev Phoud, Booksellers, 5-7 Rua, 3 Ide MYSORE- Jameria (R) H. Venkataramiah & Sons, New Statue Circle PATHANKOT- Peoples Book House, Opp., Jagan Mohan Palace The Krishna Book Depot, Main Bazar (R)

jv List of Agents-eontd.

PATIALA- SHILLONG- Superintendent, Bhupendra State Press The Officer-in-Charge, Assam Government, B. D. Jain It Co., 17, Shah N ashin Bazar Chapla Bookstall, P. B. No. 1 (R) PATNA- SONEPAT- Superintendent, Government Printing (Bihar) United Book Agency J. N. P. Agarwal & Co., Padri-Ki-Haveli, Raghu- SRI NAGAR- nath Bhawan Luxmi Trading Co., Padri-Ki-Haveli The Kashmir Bookshop, Residency Road Moti Lal Banam Dass, Bankipore SURAT- Bengal Law House, Chowhatta (R) Shri Gajanan Pustakalaya, Tower Road PITIIORAGARH- TIRUCHIRPALLI- Maniram Punetha & Sons {R} Kalpana Publishers, Wosiur PONDICHERRY - S. Krishnaswami & Co., 35, Subhash Chander Bose Mis. Honesty Book House,9 Rue Duplix (R) Road POONA- Palamiappa Bros. (R) Deccan Book Stall, Deccan Gymkhana TRIVANDRUM- Imperial Book Depot, 266, M. G. Road International Book Depot, Main Road International Book Service, Deccan Gymkhana Reddear Press & Book Depot, P. B. No.4 (R) Raka Book Agency,Opp., Natu's Chawl, Near Appa Balwant Chowk TUTlCORIN- Utility Book Depot, 1339, Shivaji Nagar (R) Shri K. Thiagarajan, 10-C, French Chapal Road (R) PUDUKOTTAI- UDAIPUR- Shri P. N. Swaminathan Sivam & Co., East Main Jagdish & Co., Inside Surajapole (R) Road (R) Book Centre, Maharana, Bhopal Consumecs' Co-op. RAJKOT- Society Ltd. (R) Mohan Lal Dossabhai Shah, Bookael!ers and Sub-Agents UJJAIN- RANCHI- Manek Chand Book Depot, Sati Gate (R) Crown Book Depot, Upper Bazar Pustak Mahal, Upper Bazar (R) VARANASI- REWA- Stu

RaHway 8oQk.. taH holder. Foreip

SIS. A. H. Wheeler & Co., 15, Elgin Road, Allahabad SIS. Education Enterpriae Private Ltd., Kathumandu (Nepal) SIS. Aktie Bologat, C. E. Fritzes Kungl, Hovobokhandel, Gahlot Bros., K. E. M. Road, Bikaner Fredsgation-2 Box 1656, Stockholm-16, (Sweden) Reise-und Verkehrsverlag Stuttgart, Post 730, Gutenberg. Higginbothams & Co., Ltd., Mount Road, Madras stra 21, Stuttgart No. 11245, Stuttgart den (Germany West) Shri lswaT Subramanyam 452, Reversite Driv Apt. 6, New York,27 N W Y M. Gulab Singh & Sons, Private Ltd., Mathura Road, The Proprietor, Book Centre, Lakshmi Mansions, 49, The New Delhi Mall, Lahore (Pakistari) (00 S " R Basis)

The Head Clerk, Govt. Book Depot, Ahmedabad The Registrar of Companies, Mahatma Gandhi Road, West The Asstt. Director, Extell8ion Centre, Kapileshwar Road, Cotto Bldg. P. B. 334, Kanpur Belgaum The Registrar of Companies, Everest 100, Marine Drive, Bombay The Employment Officer, Employment Exchange, Dhar The Asstt. Director, Footwear Extension Centre, Polo The Registrar of Companies, 162, Brigade Road, Bangalore Ground No.1, Jodhpur , The Registrar of Companies, Gwalior The Officer I/C., Extension Centre, Club Road, Muzaffarpur Asstt. Director, Extension Centre, Bhuli Road, Dhanbad The Director, Indian Bureau of Mines, Govt. of India, Registrar of Companies, Orissa, Cuttack Candhi, Cuttack Ministry of Mines & Fuel, Nagpur The Registrar of Companies, Gujarat State, Gujarat The Asstt. Director, Industrial Extension Centre, Nadiad Samachar Building, Ahmedabad (Gujarat) Publication Division, Sales Depot, North Block, New Delhi The Head Clerk, Photozincographic Press, 5, Finance Road, The Development Commissioner, Small Scale Industries, Poona New Delhi Government Printing & Stationery, Rajkot The Offioer l/C., University Employment Bureau, Lucknow The Officer I/C., Extension Centre, Industrial Estate, Kokar, Ranchi Officer I/C.,S. I. S. I. Extension Centre, Maida

The Director, S. I. S. I. Industrial Extenaion Centr~, Udhna, Officer I/C., S. I. S. I. Extension Centre, Habra, Tabaluria, Surat 24 Parganaa The Registrar of Companies, Narayani Building, 27, Officer I/C., S. I. S. I. Model Carpentry Workshop, Piyali Erabourne Road, Calcutta-I Nagar, P. O. Burnipur

The Registrar of Companies, Kerala, 50, Feet~, I ~r~-I/C., S. I. S. I. Chrontanning Extension Centre, Ernakulam \~a 33, North Topsia Road, Calcutta-46 The Registrar of Companies, H. No. 3-5-83, HyderiU~a, o~ \ /C., S.I.S.I. Extension Centre, (Footwear), Calcutta Hyderabad AsJ* irector, Extension Centre, Hyderabad Registrar of Companies, Assam, Manipur and 'rr~" ~t Director, Extension Centre, Krishna Distt. (A.P.) Shillong ... loyment Officer, Employment Exchange, Jhabua Registrar of Companies, Sunlight Insurance Building, Aj~~ y. Director Incharge, S.I.S.1., C/o Chief Civil Admn. Goa, Gate Extension, New Delhi Panjitn The Registrar of Companies, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, The Registrar of Trade Unions, Kanpur Link Road, Jullundur City The Employment Officer, Employment Exchange, Gopal Registrar of Companies, Bihar, Jammal Road, Patna·l Bhavan, Mornia RegisU'ar of Companies, Raj, & Ajmer; Shri Kamta Prasad The Officer I/C., State Information Centre, Hyderabad HOUIC, ht Floor, 'C' Scheme, Ashok Marg, Jaipur The Regiatrar en Co~panies; Pondicherry The Registrar of Cnmpaoiea, Andhta Bank Bui1dina. 6 Liachi The AIItt. Director of Publicity and Information, Vidhana Cbetty Street, P. B. 1530, .Madna Saubba (P. B. 271) Bangalore