NADRAZI HOLESOVICE III Say what? a.k.a. a quick Czech lesson. Let’s be honest here: Czech is pretty difficult to master, and Vítejte v Praze! HOLEŠOVICE
B d no-one expects you to speak it as a foreign visitor. But for e 49 08 that added cuteness, you can try. d 03 Černý most Welcome in Prague! 60 20 First, a pronunciation guide: b a XIII 55 49 02 HOLEŠOVICE Rajská zahrada Rajská The “c” sounds like “tz” (as in Ritz). The “ř” sounds like a “rzh” of sorts. VLTAVSKÁ MARKET C BUBENEČ 76 44 The “j” sounds like a “y” (as in Yentl). (This one is unique to Czech, and 59 Hloubětín
Letňany 42 A The “r” rolls rather than glides (think tought.) DEJVICKÁ LETNÁ b b 25 29 46 27 41 c Spanish) and the “g” is a hard g. The “ň” sounds like a Spanish “ñ”. 13 Kolbenova a 03 KRIŽÍKOVA HRADČANSKÁ
Depo Hostivař 49 50 Prosek The “č” sounds like a “ch”. And the simple accent above vowels 18
Skalka 19 Vysočanská The “š” sounds like a “sh”. makes them a bit longer. The 77 best THE PLEDGE VLTAVA IV VI C a 26 KARLÍN 16 77 07 68
Střižkov The “ž” sounds like a “zh”. This guide is independent. No kickbacks, no advertising, no favours. We ate 36 39 FLORENC f 05 Háje 04 77 e 64 66 a 08 Strašnická all the meals and paid for them. We treat your vacationXII as if it were24 our own. V Českomoravská JEWISH 08 places you must 33 15 a 40 28 And here’s some basics: QUARTER 03 d Ládví Come on. Have we everMALOSTRANSKÁ lied to you? NÁMĚSTÍ 55 d REPUBLIKY NÁMĚSTÍ Palmovka I HRADČANY
Opatov 56 a STAROMĚSTSKÁ REPUBLIKY Želivského Hi! Ahoj! [Ahoy. Like the chips.] 22 b 71 67 b 65 08 b 31 62 72 OLD TOWN try in Prague 71 03 c SQUARE 30 Hello. (formal) Dobrý den. [Do-bree den.] CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES!g 11
Flora b
Kobylisy 77 62 Invalidovna
Chodov 56 c 56 h Yes, just like David Bowie, we all have to turn and face the74 strange ch-ch- 77 How are you? Jak se máte? [Yak seh maa-teh?] 34 OLD b b Křižíkova 01 RAILWAY LESSER TOWN 69 35 32 47 a 77 MŮSTEK HLAVNÍ NÁDRAŽÍ STATION changes... of openingTOWN times, ownerships69 and addresses. Don’t worry, rock’n’roller. Roztyly Náměstí Míru Good bye. Na shledanou. [Nah skhle-dah-noh.] a c 37 d XII MŮSTEK 27 08 i 77 b
Jiřího z Poděbrad Just tune to our Prague food blog over at tasteofprague.com for updates
Hlavní nádraží Hlavní #tasteofprague 77 56 b c c ŽIŽKOV 11 Thank you! Děkuji. [Dieh-koo-yee.] 61 52
Muzeum 56 63 NÁRODNÍ TŘÍDA 55 58 Vltavská and news. We’ve got you covered. 38 WENCESLAS SQUARE #nomnom 51 70
Florenc 43 23 Please. Prosím. [Pro-seem.] 34 MUZEUM
Nádraží Holešovice Nádraží XII NÁMĚSTI JIŘÍHO a Kačerov Z PODĚBRAD 73 75 48 e 56 d Sorry! Pardon. [Par-don.] LET’S ALL BE FRIENDS17 77 49 c
Náměstí NEW 77 republiky Cheers! Na zdraví! [Na zdra-vee.] II You’ll be back, right? Let’s stay in09 touch TOWNthen. Follow us on social mediaVINOHRADY to make I. P. PAVLOVA b I.P. Pavlova I.P. 55 NÁMĚSTÍ MÍRU Vyšehrad Budějovická sure you’re up to date on new openings andKARLOVO cool NÁMĚSTÍ places to visit!
Můstek Bon appetit. Dobrou chuť. [Do-brou khut’.] a j Pankrác 77 c a 25 45 49 12 11 Yum. Mňam! [Mnyam!] IX
Pražského povstání Pražského summer 2018 KARLOVO NÁMĚSTÍ instagram.com/tasteofprague 53
Národní třída Národní Where is… Kde je… [Kde yeh…] Staroměstská VIII 54 edition SMÍCHOV
How much is it? Kolik to stojí? [Ko-lick toh sto-yee?] facebook.com/tasteofprague14 Malostranská X
Anděl 57 f 21 Karlovo náměstí Karlovo 49 d I don’t speak Czech. Nemluvím česky. [Ne-mlu-veem ches-ki.] 56 Hradčanská twitter.com/tasteofprague MAP Dejvická Do you speak English? Mluvíte anglicky? [Mlu-vee-teh ahn-glitz-ki?] Radlická Hůrka Y Bořislavka Jinonice
A SHARING IS CARING VII Help! Pomoc! [Po-mots!] 06 Smíchovské nádraží Smíchovské W
Lužiny We’d love to see how you did in Prague. Share your Prague moments and Nové Butovice Nové Nádraží
Veleslavín Put your finger. Strč prst skrz krk. [Strch prst skrz krk. VYŠEHRAD through your throat You can make it.] www.tasteofprague.com discoveries! You’ll inspire others10 and give us the feedback we need. SU B Luka Just use our hashtag! Petřiny SMÍCHOVSKÉ BTW, put a video of you trying the last sentence on Instagram or FB under NÁDRAŽÍ
Stodůlky #strcprstskrzkrk. We’d love to see it. Thanks! LEGEND Motol 12 15 49 VII #tasteofpraguerestaurants sweets cool spots LETNÁ name of district river Nemocnice A Zličín PRAGUE PRAGUE SUBWAY MAP SUBWAY PRAGUE ISBN 978-80-270-0952-7 PS: And if they’re taking their time with your order, here’s how you count to ten in 35 bars and pubs 53 farmers’ markets Czech and best bites parks other landuse B Czech: jedna - dva - tři - čtyři - pět - šest - sedm - osm - devět - deset. Have fun in Prague. You deserve it. 43 cafés 67 shops and galleries ANDĚL metro station forests roads
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To k lsteho a Say what? a.k.a. a quick Czech lesson. Say what? a.k.a. a quick Czech lesson. Let’s be honest here: Czech is pretty difficult to master, and Vítejte v Praze! Let’s be honest here: Czech is pretty difficult to master, and Vítejte v Praze!
B no-one expects you to speak it as a foreign visitor. But for B no-one expects you to speak it as a foreign visitor. But for that added cuteness, you can try. that added cuteness, you can try.
Černý most Welcome inČerný most Prague! Welcome in Prague! First, a pronunciation guide: First, a pronunciation guide:
Rajská zahrada Rajská The “c” sounds like “tz” (as in Ritz). The “ř” sounds like a “rzh” of sorts. zahrada Rajská The “c” sounds like “tz” (as in Ritz). The “ř” sounds like a “rzh” of sorts. C C The “j” sounds like a “y” (as in Yentl). (This one is unique to Czech, and The “j” sounds like a “y” (as in Yentl). (This one is unique to Czech, and Hloubětín Hloubětín Letňany Letňany A The “r” rolls rather than glides (think tought.) A The “r” rolls rather than glides (think tought.) Spanish) and the “g” is a hard g. The “ň” sounds like a Spanish “ñ”. Spanish) and the “g” is a hard g. The “ň” sounds like a Spanish “ñ”. Kolbenova Kolbenova Depo Hostivař Depo Hostivař Prosek The “č” sounds like a “ch”. And the simple accent above vowels Prosek The “č” sounds like a “ch”. And the simple accent above vowels Skalka Skalka
Vysočanská The “š” sounds like a “sh”. makes them a bit longer. The 77 best THE PLEDGE Vysočanská The “š” sounds like a “sh”. makes them a bit longer. The 77 best THE PLEDGE C C
Střižkov The “ž” sounds like a “zh”. This guide is independent.Střižkov No kickbacks, no advertising, no favours. We ate The “ž” sounds like a “zh”. This guide is independent. No kickbacks, no advertising, no favours. We ate Háje Háje
Strašnická all the meals and paid for them. We treat your vacation as ifStrašnická it were our own. all the meals and paid for them. We treat your vacation as if it were our own. Českomoravská And here’s some basics: places you must Českomoravská And here’s some basics: places you must Ládví Come on. HaveLádví we ever lied to you? Come on. Have we ever lied to you? Palmovka Palmovka Opatov Opatov
Želivského Hi! Ahoj! [Ahoy. Like the chips.] Želivského Hi! Ahoj! [Ahoy. Like the chips.] Hello. (formal) Dobrý den. [Do-bree den.] try in Prague CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES! Hello. (formal) Dobrý den. [Do-bree den.] try in Prague CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES! Flora Flora Kobylisy Kobylisy Invalidovna Invalidovna Chodov Chodov How are you? Jak se máte? [Yak seh maa-teh?] Yes, just like David Bowie, we all have to turn and face the strange ch-ch- How are you? Jak se máte? [Yak seh maa-teh?] Yes, just like David Bowie, we all have to turn and face the strange ch-ch- Křižíkova changes... of opening times, ownershipsKřižíkova and addresses. Don’t worry, rock’n’roller. changes... of opening times, ownerships and addresses. Don’t worry, rock’n’roller. Roztyly Roztyly Náměstí Míru Good bye. Na shledanou. [Nah skhle-dah-noh.] Náměstí Míru Good bye. Na shledanou. [Nah skhle-dah-noh.]
Jiřího z Poděbrad Just tune to our Prague food blog over at tasteofprague.com forJiřího z Poděbrad updates Just tune to our Prague food blog over at tasteofprague.com for updates
Hlavní nádraží Hlavní #tasteofprague nádraží Hlavní #tasteofprague Thank you! Děkuji. [Dieh-koo-yee.] Thank you! Děkuji. [Dieh-koo-yee.] Muzeum Muzeum Vltavská #nomnom and news. We’ve got you covered.Vltavská #nomnom and news. We’ve got you covered.
Florenc Please. Prosím. [Pro-seem.] Florenc Please. Prosím. [Pro-seem.] Nádraží Holešovice Nádraží Holešovice Nádraží Kačerov Sorry! Pardon. [Par-don.] LET’S ALL BE FRIENDS Kačerov Sorry! Pardon. [Par-don.] LET’S ALL BE FRIENDS Náměstí Náměstí republiky Cheers! Na zdraví! [Na zdra-vee.] You’ll be back, right? Let’s stay in touchrepubliky then. Follow us on social media to make Cheers! Na zdraví! [Na zdra-vee.] You’ll be back, right? Let’s stay in touch then. Follow us on social media to make I.P. Pavlova I.P. Pavlova I.P. Vyšehrad Vyšehrad Budějovická sure you’re up to date on new openings and cool places to visit! Budějovická sure you’re up to date on new openings and cool places to visit!
Můstek Bon appetit. Dobrou chuť. [Do-brou khut’.] Můstek Bon appetit. Dobrou chuť. [Do-brou khut’.] Pankrác Pankrác Yum. Mňam! [Mnyam!] Yum. Mňam! [Mnyam!]
Pražského povstání Pražského summer 2018 instagram.com/tasteofprague povstání Pražského summer 2018 instagram.com/tasteofprague
Národní třída Národní Where is… Kde je… [Kde yeh…] třída Národní Where is… Kde je… [Kde yeh…] Staroměstská edition Staroměstská edition How much is it? Kolik to stojí? [Ko-lick toh sto-yee?] facebook.com/tasteofprague How much is it? Kolik to stojí? [Ko-lick toh sto-yee?] facebook.com/tasteofprague Malostranská Malostranská Anděl Anděl
Karlovo náměstí Karlovo I don’t speak Czech. Nemluvím česky. [Ne-mlu-veem ches-ki.] náměstí Karlovo I don’t speak Czech. Nemluvím česky. [Ne-mlu-veem ches-ki.] Hradčanská twitter.com/tasteofpragueHradčanská twitter.com/tasteofprague MAP MAP Dejvická Do you speak English? Mluvíte anglicky? [Mlu-vee-teh ahn-glitz-ki?] Dejvická Do you speak English? Mluvíte anglicky? [Mlu-vee-teh ahn-glitz-ki?] Radlická Radlická Hůrka Hůrka Y Y Bořislavka Bořislavka Jinonice Jinonice A Help! Pomoc! [Po-mots!] SHARING IS CARING A Help! Pomoc! [Po-mots!] SHARING IS CARING Smíchovské nádraží Smíchovské nádraží Smíchovské W W
Lužiny We’d love to see how you did in Prague. Share your Prague moments and Lužiny We’d love to see how you did in Prague. Share your Prague moments and Nové Butovice Nové Butovice Nové Nádraží Nádraží
Veleslavín Put your finger. Strč prst skrz krk. [Strch prst skrz krk. Veleslavín Put your finger. Strč prst skrz krk. [Strch prst skrz krk. through your throat You can make it.] www.tasteofprague.com discoveries! You’ll inspire others and give us the feedback we need. through your throat You can make it.] www.tasteofprague.com discoveries! You’ll inspire others and give us the feedback we need. SU B SU B Luka Luka Just use our hashtag! Just use our hashtag! Petřiny Petřiny BTW, put a video of you trying the last sentence on Instagram or FB under BTW, put a video of you trying the last sentence on Instagram or FB under
Stodůlky #strcprstskrzkrk. We’d love to see it. Thanks! Stodůlky #strcprstskrzkrk. We’d love to see it. Thanks! Motol #tasteofpragueMotol #tasteofprague Nemocnice Nemocnice A A Zličín Zličín PRAGUE PRAGUE PRAGUE SUBWAY MAP SUBWAY PRAGUE PS: And if they’re taking their time with your order, here’s how you count to ten in ISBN 978-80-270-0952-7 MAP SUBWAY PRAGUE PS: And if they’re taking their time with your order, here’s how you count to ten in ISBN 978-80-270-0952-7 B Czech: jedna - dva - tři - čtyři - pět - šest - sedm - osm - devět - deset. Have fun in Prague. You deserve it. B Czech: jedna - dva - tři - čtyři - pět - šest - sedm - osm - devět - deset. Have fun in Prague. You deserve it. Say what? a.k.a. a quick Czech lesson. Let’s be honest here: Czech is pretty difficult to master, and Vítejte v Praze!
B no-one expects you to speak it as a foreign visitor. But for that added cuteness, you can try.
Černý most Welcome in Prague! First, a pronunciation guide:
Rajská zahrada Rajská The “c” sounds like “tz” (as in Ritz). The “ř” sounds like a “rzh” of sorts. C The “j” sounds like a “y” (as in Yentl). (This one is unique to Czech, and Hloubětín Letňany A The “r” rolls rather than glides (think tought.) Spanish) and the “g” is a hard g. The “ň” sounds like a Spanish “ñ”. Kolbenova Depo Hostivař Prosek The “č” sounds like a “ch”. And the simple accent above vowels Skalka
Vysočanská The “š” sounds like a “sh”. makes them a bit longer. The 77 best THE PLEDGE C
Střižkov The “ž” sounds like a “zh”. This guide is independent. No kickbacks, no advertising, no favours. We ate Háje
Strašnická all the meals and paid for them. We treat your vacation as if it were our own. Českomoravská And here’s some basics: places you must Ládví Come on. Have we ever lied to you? Palmovka Opatov
Želivského Hi! Ahoj! [Ahoy. Like the chips.] Hello. (formal) Dobrý den. [Do-bree den.] try in Prague CH-CH-CH-CH-CHANGES! Flora Kobylisy Invalidovna Chodov How are you? Jak se máte? [Yak seh maa-teh?] Yes, just like David Bowie, we all have to turn and face the strange ch-ch- Křižíkova changes... of opening times, ownerships and addresses. Don’t worry, rock’n’roller. Roztyly Náměstí Míru Good bye. Na shledanou. [Nah skhle-dah-noh.]
Jiřího z Poděbrad Just tune to our Prague food blog over at tasteofprague.com for updates
Hlavní nádraží Hlavní #tasteofprague Thank you! Děkuji. [Dieh-koo-yee.] Muzeum Vltavská #nomnom and news. We’ve got you covered.
Florenc Please. Prosím. [Pro-seem.] Nádraží Holešovice Nádraží Kačerov Sorry! Pardon. [Par-don.] LET’S ALL BE FRIENDS Náměstí republiky Cheers! Na zdraví! [Na zdra-vee.] You’ll be back, right? Let’s stay in touch then. Follow us on social media to make I.P. Pavlova I.P. Vyšehrad Budějovická sure you’re up to date on new openings and cool places to visit!
Můstek Bon appetit. Dobrou chuť. [Do-brou khut’.] Pankrác Yum. Mňam! [Mnyam!]
Pražského povstání Pražského summer 2018 instagram.com/tasteofprague
Národní třída Národní Where is… Kde je… [Kde yeh…] Staroměstská edition How much is it? Kolik to stojí? [Ko-lick toh sto-yee?] facebook.com/tasteofprague Malostranská Anděl
Karlovo náměstí Karlovo I don’t speak Czech. Nemluvím česky. [Ne-mlu-veem ches-ki.] Hradčanská twitter.com/tasteofprague MAP Dejvická Do you speak English? Mluvíte anglicky? [Mlu-vee-teh ahn-glitz-ki?] Radlická Hůrka Y Bořislavka Jinonice A Help! Pomoc! [Po-mots!] SHARING IS CARING Smíchovské nádraží Smíchovské W
Lužiny We’d love to see how you did in Prague. Share your Prague moments and Nové Butovice Nové Nádraží
Veleslavín Put your finger. Strč prst skrz krk. [Strch prst skrz krk. through your throat You can make it.] www.tasteofprague.com discoveries! You’ll inspire others and give us the feedback we need. SUB Luka Just use our hashtag! Petřiny BTW, put a video of you trying the last sentence on Instagram or FB under
Stodůlky #strcprstskrzkrk. We’d love to see it. Thanks!
Motol #tasteofprague Nemocnice A
Zličín PRAGUE PRAGUE SUBWAY MAP SUBWAY PRAGUE PS: And if they’re taking their time with your order, here’s how you count to ten in ISBN 978-80-270-0952-7 B Czech: jedna - dva - tři - čtyři - pět - šest - sedm - osm - devět - deset. Have fun in Prague. You deserve it. FAQ______6
Restaurants _FAST______AND (NOT SO) FURIOUS 9
Restaurants_SLOW______DANCE 17
Bars & pubs______21
Cafés______33
Sweets______41
Farmers’ Markets______47
Shopping_FRENZY______WITH A DIFFERENCE 51
Czech bites______60
Best bites_NOT______STRICTLY CZECH 64
Best of‘s______66
Off the map______68
Prague districts______70
Neigborhood walk – Letná______72
Cool spots______75
48 Hours in Prague______78
What to do in Prague______82
Entertainment______84
Statistics______86
Budget eats. These won’t break the bank.
Our personal favorites. The shortlist, if you will.
Good vegetarian options.
Bring your own wifi. Our ours. (Look it up on our website.)
Instagram likes guar- anteed. And that’s what life is about, right?
Romantic spot. The rest is up to you.
Outdoor seats. Get a tan!
Alright, this is us. Taste of Prague. We like to travel and eat, just like you. In any case, have fun in Prague! Vacation We wrote this guide because we want you to eat well and have a good time is so scarce, so we hope this will help Good place for brunch. time in Prague. Simple as that. We hope you enjoy your stay in Prague, you squeeze the most out of your time in You deserve it. and we’re happy we get to play a small role in it. Prague. And if you see us on the street or in a restaurant, come say hi! We don’t bite, okay? Also, we wrote this as a gift we give out to our guests at the end of Gluten-free options our food tours. If you fall into this group, thank you for joining us! All the best, available. If you insist. You are awesome and we love you. We know you need a nap right now. Zuzi, Jan, Karolina, Martin, Anna and Markéta Or cocktails. You deserve both. Did we mention we love you? Kid-friendly. Because they happen.
2 3 Second, our rental apartment. (Oh, and it’s a good idea to stalk SO WHAT ELSE Is there any other place to stay us on Instagram. We don’t mind. in Prague? Nope, nothing comes Our feed is a great addition to this DO WE DO? to mind. It’s located in the heart guidebook. Please follow us, okay? of the cool Letna district (see Our lives have one meaning only. Okay, so you’ve bought the guide. here in Prague back in 2011, and page 72) but that doesn’t matter New followers. So what you’re Excellent choice! they’re still the best. Just ask our because it’s so cool you won’t waiting for?) Want more? We gots more. Time moms. Four hours, great vibes, want to leave it. for a shameless plug. local insights and looots of food And now back to our scheduled and drinks. Like an episode of Interested? Just let us know. We program. First off, we run food tours in Anthony Bourdain’s TV show, but will be happy to host you or show Prague. They’re pretty awesome. in real life. And you get to pay for you around! They were the first food tours it. Yay!
4 FOOD TOURS AND APARTMENT 5 FAQ
Is Prague safe? Is public transit free? How much do you tip? Can you drink on the streets? Very. Last year: 22 homicides No. You must buy 30 min, 90 min, In general, about ten percent. Generally, yes. There are and they were mostly domestic 24 hour, or 72 hour passes and If you‘re happy, that is. exceptions though (like Prague disputes. Apparently, you’re safer validate them on entry. (Look for 1, for instance). Look for the on the street than at home here. a yellow box. Locals have annual What if you want to pay with appropriate signs. passes, so they don’t validate a card? Can you drink the water? anything.) Tell the staff the total amount you What are your marihuana laws? Yes. It’s delicious, actually. Ask for want to pay (including tip) as you Consumption is legal, up to a point, it in restaurants too. Many places Will taxis try to rip me off? hand out your card. And btw, most but distribution is not. If you want it won’t serve it unless you ask. Probably. Let the restaurant call places accept cards, except maybe you have to grow your own. The law you one. Uber works here as well, the smallest ones. says: „It is illegal to carry a quantity Is English widely spoken or download the local favourite, of marihuana that is bigger than in Prague? Liftago. Just no matter what you What’s the dress code small.“ True story, bro. Yes. Aim for someone younger: do, don’t sit in a cab in front of the in restaurants? younger Czechs speak more English Main Train Station. Be sure to ask Casual. You‘ll be fine with jeans Are the boat tours worth it? than their parents. This was written for the estimated price first. virtually anywhere in Prague. We’d No, we don’t think so. Maybe the by native Czechs, anyway. skip shorts for fine dining restaurants. boat cruise to the zoo. Other than Do cars have to stop in front Just don’t wear crocs, okay? that, we’re out. How do you get to the city of crosswalks? from the airport? Yes, pedestrians have the right of Is smoking allowed in Is the chimney cake really Public transport (usually bus and way. But you have to show intent, restaurants? Czech? How do you pro- subway to the centre) is one option. walk in first. Confidence is key. No. Smoking in restaurants was nounce it? (CZK 32) Uber or Liftago is another. Watch out for the trams, though. banned in May 2017. Good riddance. It’s pronounced “Tr-del-nieek”. And (Prague airport has wi-fi, so you they’re not really Czech. Most of don’t need a data plan.) Taxis are Will exchange offices rob me? Is beer really cheaper them are pretty bad. That said, if available, too, and Prague Airport Most of them will try. Here’s how than water? you put Nutella on a dead rat, it’s Transfers offer a fixed-fee fare to you do it: ask how much you will In most pubs beer is truly cheaper going to be good. So the ones with anywhere within Prague. get for the amount you want to than soda. So, for a true budget Nutella are passable, we guess. Still exchange. Do your own calculation. choice, beer is your best option. wrong though. If you’re unhappy, walk away. Need a tip? Exchange.cz at Kaprova 14 street: print the voucher from their website first.
6 PRAGUE FAQS YOU HAVE QUESTIONS, WE HAVE ANSWERS. 7 RESTAURANTS FAST AND (NOT SO) FURIOUS cosmopolitan, with great beers, a sign of great beer service wines, cocktails and now defi- if they do. You must also try nitely coffee. We used to have tripe soup (uncompromising a strong pastry making tradi- Czech specialty), fried cheese tion. It’s good to see it coming with tartare sauce (junk food), back, too. Prague ham (tradition), pickled sausage (pub food), “svíčková” Your three favorite places in with bread roll dumplings (tradi- Prague? tional festive dish), cooked beef Lidová jídelna Těšnov, because with tomato sauce (for the kids), it’s an authentic Czech canteen. schnitzels (one thing you can People form a long line every always rely on), “buchtičky se day to eat cheap and good food. šodó” (traditional sweet dish), Sia is a new big restaurant and větrník or laskonka (a sweet the culinary dream come true bite with coffee). for Chef Štift, a long-term Exec- Photo: Jakub Dohnálek utive Chef at Prague’s Mandarin Oriental. It’s worth a try. Onesip Your secret tip for Prague? coffee 39 . Expertly prepared My first rule to enjoying Czech TOMÁŠ coffee just like in London, food: don’t swap the sides! served by great people to have Czech dishes come with spe- a chat with. Listen well: they cific sides, and you lose the When Tomáš speaks, you listen. As the founder of the ubiquitous will give you great recommen- magic if you swap them. If sold Ambiente group of restaurants, he is the most respected man dations. separately, let the staff choose. on Prague’s food scene. But you wouldn’t know: sporting jeans Whenever I get this question, I also recommend to leave the and a t-shirt, he is a humble, kind man that projects calm and life I avoid our restaurants on centre and find an authentic experience. But you know that in the back of his mind, he’s already principle. That said, it would Prague dive pub, like U kladi- thinking about the new project he will be rolling out soon. Does he be a shame not to discover va in Strašnice. Have a day to ever sleep? We’re not entirely sure. the “Dinner from the Bone” spare? Visit Czech mountains, in Kantýna 1 , and větrník like the beautiful Bedřichov just in Myšák 52 when you’re in 1.5hr away. Can you describe the food today, most meals served are Prague. scene in Prague? Czech. Local food can be found Our food scene is ambitious everywhere, from cheap can- What should a foreginer and lively. It has also finally teens to modern, traditionalist, order in Prague? become patriotic. The Czechs locavore eateries following the We’re a land of beer. But not Tomáš have long seen their cuisine as New Nordic shool, or luxurious all beers are born equal. Go to Restauranteur, chef, founder of Ambiente restaurants heavy and old-fashioned, but restaurants. Prague is also very a pub that serves a “šnyt”. It’s Instagram: @ym_yn
10 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 11 01 KANTÝNA 02 MR HOT DOG 04 SISTERS 05 NAŠE MASO Politických vězňů 5, P1 Kamenická 24, P7 Dlouhá 39, P1 Dlouhá 39, P1 Mo-Su 11.30-23 Mo-Su 11.30-22 Mo-Fr 8-19, Sa 9-18 Mo-Sa 8.30-22
A shrine of meat, Kantyna Have an itch that only a proper “Chlebíček”, the classic Czech Locals stand long lines in this comes in layers as Dante’s hot dog will scratch? Then pay open-faced sandwich, gets a butcher shop with a focus on Inferno. First you choose your a visit to this Letná district sta- farmers’ market overhaul by Ms local heritage breeds for good cut in the butcher shop. Then ple. With all kinds of hot dogs Michopulu, a prominent Czech meat, burgers, excellent hot dogs you sacrifice your dignity at the with meat from Naše maso 5 , food writer. Add great daily soup and steak tartare, and the best chlebicky-praha.cz kantyna.ambi.cz/en
marble table in the central part beef chilli fries and beef sliders for a quick, tasty and relatively nasemaso.ambi.cz/en meatloaf anywhere. Still want with hot meats. Finish yourself that challenge the best burgers healthy lunch, or come for their more? Sign up for the six-course off with beers and liquor at the in town, this is the opposite funky breakfasts. dinner for true carnivores (Mon- facebook.com/mrhotdogprague tables in the back. of eating for a beach body. Wed). Self-serve craft beer from Finish with beers, milkshakes or the wall tap! cocktails. TIP: They’re all pretty good but the classic ham-and-potato-salad remains our TIP: Leave your vegetarian friends at favourite. The beetroot and goat cheese is home. Kantyna has literally nothing for TIP: Want to show the locals what’s up? delicious, too! TIP: Avoid coming during Fri or Sat lunch them. (We’re not joking here.) Check out Mr Hot Dog’s FB page for their hours unless you like standing in Disney hot dog eating contests. World-caliber lines. Beat the crowds before 11am or shortly after 3pm.
03 LOKÁL 06 U BANSETHŮ 07 BANH MI MAKERS Táborská 49, P4 Dlouhá 39/Hradební 1, P1 a Dlouhá 33, P1 c Sokolovská 55, P8 Mo-Su 11:00-24:00 Mo-Fr(Sa) 11(12)-22(21) Mo-Sa(Su) 11-01(24), Mo-Th(Fr) 11-24(0.30) Sa(Su) 11.30-0.30(23) b Míšeňská 12, P1 d Nad Královskou oborou 31, P7 Czech pubs don’t get more au- There are many Vietnamese Su-Th 11.30-24, Fr-Sa 11.30-01, Mo-Th(Fr), Sa 11.30-24(01), thentic than that: off the beaten bistros in Prague, but we keep Su 11.30-23 path, with fresh Pilsners and coming back to BMM, tucked
The classic Czech neighborhood pub, reinvented. Truly Czech pub clas- ubansethu.cz hearty Czech cuisine all made away in a corner of the Dlouhá sics (fried cheese!), great fresh Pilsner from the tank, and the Kozel dark in house and from scratch. The foodie arcade, for a clean Pho, banhmimakers.com lager for you know what. (Ask the staff if you don’t.) Great for watching smoking ban has opened the the Chef Salad and the spring sports games. Just observe the locals and repeat for best results. The av- world of the Czech pub to tour- rolls. So now you know where the erage number of beers locals have per night? Nine. Just sayin’. ists, and this is one of the best Czechs hide their veggies: yup, lokal.ambi.cz/en
b ones. See what the institution is it’s in Vietnamese cuisine. d all about. TIP: We know it may feel odd having pastries at a pub, but they resell delicious pastries by Café Savoy 51 and they sell them cheaper than Café Savoy. But you didn’t hear it from us. TIP: Want a killer Bun Bo Nam Bo with your baguettes or pho? Visit banh-mi-ba in TIP: Just get the signature dish: a quarter Rybná, just a 3-min walk away. roast duck stuffed with dumplings and sauerkraut, paired with Pilsner. The per- fect combo. Life is good.
12 RESTAURANTS FAST AND (NOT SO) FURIOUS 13 08 BOTTEGAS 11 LAS ADELITAS 12 PAPRIKA a Americká 8, P2 Rumunská 16, P2 Dlouhá 39, P1 c Ondříčkova 17, P3 a Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 11(12)-24 Mo-Fr 11-22 Mo-Sa(Su) 9-24(22) Mo-Sa(Su) 9-22(21) Lucemburská 6, P3 Tusarova 39, P7 b d Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 11(9)-24 Platnéřská 11, P1 Mo-Sa(Su) 9-22(21) b c Malé náměstí 13, P1 Mo-Sa(Su) 8.30-22.30(21.30) Havlíčkova 13, P1 Need rest from the meat extrava- e Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 11(12)-24 Mo-Sa 8.30-23.30, Su 9-22 ganza that is Prague? We feel you. The one Mexican restaurant in Find refuge in this Israeli bistro La vita é bella in these popular high-end Italian bistros where affluent Prague worth visiting serves the that does the basics. Think hum- Czech and expat families enjoy their time off. You’re on vacation, so why usual suspects: tacos, carni- mus, falafel, sabich or shakshuka. not join them? The styling and the food (we love the risottos, the salads tas, meat al pastor and so on. The tiny, spare bistro is not a lasadelitas.cz
labottega.cz and the egg breakfasts) are great. Choose the central location if place for dinner dates but you can fb.com/bistrobar.paprika c you’re nearby and hungry, but we still recreate your favorite Zohan find ourselves more often in the moments here. TIP: Fancy a longer meal in the same style? The group includes La Finestra and Aromi, two Vinohrady and Žižkov locations. established high-end Italian eateries that will hit the button if you like to eat fancy Italian. a b TIP: Let them describe the shakshuka be- fore you order - you may know a different TIP: Mango margaritas! They give you version. Can’t go wrong with a plate of a slight brain freeze, but after the fifth one, hummus, though. you won’t even care.
09 THE REAL MEAT 10 WINE FOOD 13 GRILS 14 QQ ASIAN SOCIETY MARKET U Nádražní lávky 2, P8 KITCHEN Mo-Fr 11-15, 16-22, Sa-Su 11-22 Náplavní 5, P2 Strakonická 1, P5 Ladova 3, P2 Tu-We(Th-Fr) 11-18(19), Sa 9-13 Mo-Sa(Su) 7(8)-23 Tu-Fr 11:30-14:30, 18-22, Sa 18-22
Opened by two women (the You know that cool, hip Asian The loved organic butcher shop A bit of Italy in Prague. The ful- name is anagram for “Girls”) and bistro you have at home? That’s got a major overhaul last year ly stocked food shop is fun, but partly funded by a crowdfunding QQ in Prague. Opened by Lee trms.cz with cool visual retro touches. the central “market” area with campaign, Girls serves rotisserie and Nyoman, two former chefs at This is not a place for a lavish a bakery and kitchens around grilskarlin.cz chicken-based dishes to the Sansho, the cooking is authentic, winemarket.cz lunch, but the porchetta sand- it is even funner. Very lively, young creative professionals from effortless and most importantly wich or the hot dogs are as good family-friendly place loved by the offices in the hip Karlin dis- fb.com/qqasiankitchen fun. The no-thrills room creates as they get - Paul Day knows a affluent locals. trict. Best time to come? Summer a low-key atmosphere great for thing or two about meat, and evening for the post-work vibes. quick lunches and long reunions. you can reap the benefits. TIP: Great food option after a stroll at the Vyšehrad fortress VII if the farmers TIP: The pulled chicken with smoked mayo TIP: The oyster mini po’ boys. They’re just market 57 is closed. The cooking is nice, in sourdough bread and the cider from the awesome. Also, cocktails in da house! TIP: While the sandwiches may rotate but we come for the cheeses, cold cuts tap (or cold beer from Lokal next door) are seasonally, the porchetta with salsa verde and wine. a great combo, best eaten in the Karlinske sandwich is still the best. Wash down with namesti park. craft beer by Matuska. 14 RESTAURANTS FAST AND (NOT SO) FURIOUS 15 RESTAURANTS SLOW DANCE 15 LA DEGUSTATION 16 FIELD 19 SANSHO 20 MILADA Haštalská 18, P1 U Milosrdných 12, P1 Petrská 25, P1 Šmeralova 22, P7 Tu-Su 18-24 Mo-Fr 11-14.30, 18-22.30, Tu-Fr 11.30-14 + 18-23, We-Sa 12-15, 18-22 Sa(Su) 12-15, 18-22.30(22) Sa 18-23 As if our grandma had Czech seasonal fare meets no- a bottle of liquid nitrogen When you combine a talented Want to see where Prague‘s thrills French bistro-inspired in her kitchen. This Miche- TV chef focusing on local pro- chefs and foodies go to eat? cooking in this small place with
lin-starred fine dining venue duce and modern Czech cuisine sansho.cz Then the funky Asian fusion set clean interiors opened by Mr serves the most creative in a simple, modern and well-de- menu dinner or a-la-carte lunch Sahajdak, the Executive Chef of 15 ladegustation.cz/en Czech tasting menus without signed room, you have a winner. in Sansho’s casual interiors is a La Degustation , and his wife. the usual stuffiness in one Strong sauces, and good wines must. Make sure you chat with The two chefs and two members
of the most beautiful dining fieldrestaurant.cz/en to boot. Reservations are a must Paul Day, the chef, the owner, of staff keep it simple with only instagram.com/milada_bistro rooms in Prague. after they received their first the legend. a few starters and mains, but Michelin star. what more do you need, really?
TIP: The pairing with hard-to-get Czech TIP: Pork belly in any form, soft shell crab wines is worth the price of admission slider, the sambal, the rendang and the TIP: Stick to Czech flavours. Skip the Tip: The seating in the back is nice and alone. And the juice pairing ain’t bad best dim sum dumplings in town! For extra tasting menu and the fish or meat of the all that, but the kitchen bar is where the either. guilt, the sticky toffee pudding. day, and order a la carte instead. fun happens. Check out the herb garden in the back.
17 CAFÉ LOUNGE 18 ESKA 21 TARO 22 KUCHYŇ Plaská 8, P1 Pernerova 49, P8 Nádražní 300/100, P5 Hradčanské nám. 1, P1 Mo-Fr 7.30-22, Sa(Su) 9-22(17) Mo-Fr(Sa, Su) 8(9)-23.30 Tu-Fr 11:30-15, 17:30-23, Mo-Su 10-23.30 Sa 12-16, 18-23 Café Lounge used to be listed Czech tradition is getting a se- as a specialty coffee shop here. rious update in this restaurant/ You have to applaud Taro for Finally a restaurant with a view But that was before Michal, bakery/cafe in a converted the ambition. Where most in the Prague Castle area that the chef of the legendary (and Karlín factory with a healthy taro.cz Prague restaurants play it safe, makes sense to us. Come for cafe-lounge.cz
now closed) Story restaurant, eska.ambi.cz/en dose of vegetables, foraging, Taro opened a Momofuku Ko- proper Czech cuisine, stay for took over the kitchen. Which fermentation and natural style bar-around-the-kitchen the fresh Pilsners. One soup and kuchyn.ambi.cz/en means the unpretentious and wines. Cool industrial design space that hides nothing from one dessert only. You choose hidden CL now officially does with an open kitchen does not sight. Opened by young Czechs your main in the kitchen as the everything well: food, wine and hide anything from sight. of Vietnamese descent, Taro chefs open lids of pots and pans. coffee. opens a new era of tablecloth Make sure you get the outdoor Vietnamese places in Prague. seating… for the view. Tip: Their brunches are actually among the best breakfast offerings in town right now. TIP: We’re not sure if we should say this, but the ”garden“ in the back is the number TIP: The set menu dinners are nice, but for TIP: This one ain’t easy to find but here’s a clue: one spot for outdoor dining in Prague a local atmosphere, join the office rats for the entry is right behind the statue of Tomáš right now. a reasonably priced lunch. Garrigue Masaryk facing the Prague Castle.
18 RESTAURANTS SLOW DANCE 19 BARS & PUBS How would you describe the What beer should a foreign “beer scene” here in Prague? visitor have here in Prague?
I think Prague is one of the Únětický Pivo, because it’s best cities in the world for beer delicious, and because you won’t lovers: we have some of the most find it anywhere else. traditional brewers and oldest beer halls in the world, as well as a new generation of cutting-edge craft breweries and modern beer Your secret or general tip bars. It’s the best of both worlds. for Prague.
Enjoy the bridges and old build- ings, but do try to get out of the Your three favorite places center. Visit the neighborhoods to have a beer in Prague? where people actually live. Walk through Vršovice, Vinohrady, Zlý Časy, where I occasionally Holešovice, Bubeneč or Karlín. meet friends for burgers and Go to a park like Stromovka craft beer. or Riegrovy Sady. Prague is a Pivovarský Klub 26 , where I’m vibrant, moving city, and there’s probably found most regularly. a lot more to enjoy beyond (I’ve been called PK’s mascot.) Charles Bridge and Prague U Slovanské lípy, the oldest pub Castle. in Žižkov, which I wrote about in “The Brewery in the Bohemian Forest.” EVAN
Funny that a born San Franciscan has lost his heart in Prague. But it makes total sense: where else do you want to live if you love, and write about, beer? Evan is one of the best writers about beer, traveling the world to judge beer competitions. He is also one of the few who can put Czech reality into a wider context, and his writing about Prague Evan for the NYT shows his love for the city and is something we can easily beer writer, journalist and food critic subscribe to. Twitter: @evanrail
22 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 23 23 BEERGEEK 24 MANIFESTO 27 BEER GARDENS 28 BOKOVKA Vinohradská 62, P2 Na Florenci 21, P1 a Riegrovy sady park, P2 Dlouhá 37, P1 Mo-Su 15-02 Mo-Su 8-24 Mo-Fr(Sa) 17(15)-01 b Letná park, P7 The holy grail of craft beer The pop-up market made of The two biggest beer gardens The perfect refuge from a busy aficionados: a very well curated containers (think Boxpark in town with communal tables day in a 1500s brewery cellar. selection of 30 Czech and in London) could rank in any under leafy trees are the per- Rest your legs, and soul, in a bokovka.com beergeek.cz foreign beers on tap served by category: we’re talking beers, fect place to bond with the lo- tiny wine bar with a punk vibe men with beards to other men manifesto.city cocktails, specialty coffee, lots cals. Riegrovy sady garden has and focus on Czech and foreign with beards. And, for some of (mostly fast) food and shops. the capacity of 1400 and a rock natural wines. But don’t skip on reason, chicken wings. Can With some big names in Prague festival atmosphere, while the their cheese and charcuterie become a great party place on present, this is your crash Letná offers a fantastic view of boards, and the high-end sar- weekend nights. course to Prague casual dining. the Old Town. dines are delicious, too. It’s tiny so book ahead. TIP: If you want to bring some beers home, TIP: Check their social media for planned check out the Beergeek shop in Slavíkova events. A few steps from EMA Espresso TIP: The beer is not that great but that’s street nearby. Bar 40 , the Doubleshot box lets you com- beside the point. Riegrovy sady is the place pare the work of two Prague coffee giants. TIP: You can actually order any meat prod- to watch a soccer match with the locals. uct at Naše maso 5 next door, and they will bring it to Bokovka for you. Dry-aged steak with a red, anyone? (Ask at Bokovka for permission first.)
25 BAD FLASH BAR 26 PIVOVARSKÝ KLUB 29 VELTLIN 30 “BIG” VINOGRAF a Krymská 2, P10 Křižíkova 17, P8 Křižíkova 488/115, P8 Senovážné nám. 23, P1 Mo-Su 17-01, Fr,Sa 17-02 Mo-Su 11.30-23.30 Mo-Sa 17-23 Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 11.30(17)-24
b Březinova 21, P8 Beers, beers and more beers! If you want to taste Central Eu- The fantastic, 1000-strong collec- Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 8.30(17)-24 Six on tap, nearly 300 in bottles ropean wines, this local hangout tion of local, foreign, organic and 12 beers on tap, 300+ in bottles? in this non-smoking pub. This focuses on bio-dynamic wines super fancy wines (some offered veltlin.cz Bad Flash Bar is the perfect is not a beautiful, designer pub from the former Austro-Hun- vinograf.cz by glass thanks to the Coravin place for a prolonged study of - or a particularly stylish place garian Empire, incl. the Czech system) is best enjoyed at the
what the beer world has to offer, pivovarskyklub.com for that matter - but will anyone Republic, in pleasant, modern long, wooden bar that dominates and an even longer contempla- notice after a thorough explo- surroundings. A cult following the room. Full kitchen on board,
fb.com/BadFlashBar tion on why the hell is beer so ration of their beers selection? among local wine lovers, and for but we prefer the charcuterie, incredibly cheap in Prague. Look Yes, we didn’t think so, either. a reason: they did put natural cheeses and pates. Very popular out for their live music shows! wines on Prague’s wine map. at night. Book ahead.
TIP: Finish here after exploring the hipster TIP: Stick to Czech pub snacks if you’re TIP: Ask about the clay amphora in the central that is the Krymská street and the hungry. (Or better yet, go eat elsewhere.) wooden box at the end of the bar. It may TIP: Ask the slightly geeky staff about the Grébovka vineyard X nearby. With the contain something interesting. hilly terrain, you’ll deserve that beer. upcoming guided tastings with local and foreign winemakers in the basement!
24 BAR & PUBS BAR & PUBS 25 2. Your three favorite places And then, of course, our Družstvo for wine in Prague? natural wine pop-up parties. Check out our website/FB/Insta if Bokovka 28 . Especially in the we have one during your stay and summer, as you sip a crisp pet- if you want to see unique natural nat under the secluded arches of wines and smooth deephouse the beautiful courtyard, two steps being devoured by colorful young from all the hustle of the Dlouha crowds in an unusual venue. street. Plenty of conventional and natural wines, plus cheeses 3. What wines should a for- and quality sardines to snack on eign visitor to Prague order? (plus the famous tartare from the neigboring Naše Maso 5 . Natural producers and local varieties! Fat cabs? Wrong Café Lounge 17 – Café and country. Instead, try a Frankovka restaurant with best-in-town from the famous Dolni Kounice wine selection. The current chef terroir. (My pick? Dva Duby LUCIE Michal Černý is among of the winery.) Refresh with some most gifted in Prague, and the bubbles (like the DANGERously same goes for pastry chef Lucie drinkable pet-nat by Milan As far as we know, Lucie (1) is a fantastic writer, (2) loves monstrous Dvořáková, so its one of those Nestarec or the elegant Creme concrete buildings, (3) co-organised hugely successful political rallies, rare places where great food de Pinot Noir by Dobrá Vinice) (4) is a whisky expert, (5) modeled for a local fashion designer, (6) matches interesting wines. (Plus or a full-bodied white (Jakub is the head of communication of goout.net, a handy Prague culture it’s our traditional pre-xmas Novák ftw). Also, go Bohemian: guide with lots of great content in English, and (7) is a natural wines brunch place. We spend the most wines here are produced evangelist as part of the Družstvo group of young somms who run whole day with friends every year. in Moravia, but great things are awesome pop-ups in Prague and abroad. Is the future female? With Yes, the whole day. You don’t want made even closer to Prague, Lucie around, we definitely hope so. to pick up the wine bill.) such as Muller Thurgau by Porta Bohemica. Brut & Oysters - Bubbles and 1. Can you describe the and regions. Yet if you stay oysters served in a friendly “wine scene” in Prague? in the safe haven of places atmosphere of a tiny Letná wine recommended in this guide, bar. Which also means local I think Prague still has you’ll probably end up drinking patrons and proximity to all the an evolving, kinda price- good value and in the best cases other wonders this village-like sensitive wine scene with most even low-intervention wines, as hip neighborhood (the Expo58 Lucie restaurants playing it safe and natural wines take deep roots in building, two beautiful parks, or Wine lover and head of communication at goout.net serving well-known varietals local wine lists. Mr. Hot Dog 2 ). Instagram: @coq_au_vin
26 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 27 31 “SMALL” 32 RED PIF 35 HEMINGWAY BAR 36 BANKERS BAR VINOGRAF Betlémská 9, P1 Karolíny Světlé 26, P1 Haštalská 16, P1 Tu-Sa 16.30-23.30 Mo-Th(Fr) 17-01(02), Mo-Sa(Su) 17-01(00) Míšeňská 8, P1 Sa(Su) 19-02(01) Mo-Sa 16-24, Su 14-22 Natural wines and design? The original location of Vi- Sounds great. This minimal- The best bar in town for many Sure, this fairly new cocktail bar nograf is a tiny affair that sits ist, designer bar offers a nice is also one of the most popular with the strong visuals of a bank redpif.cz no more than twenty-five and selection of French and Czech ones, so make sure you book vault may not be the college offers a great opportunity to wines (most of them natural) a seat (not an option after party central. But sometimes bankersbar.cz
www.vinograf.cz explore Czech boutique wines and the kitchen is turning out 9pm). Tell the bartenders what you just need to savour a quiet in the shade of the Charles solid dishes, but it’s all about you love or just pick a drink moment with a great drink that Bridge, yet worlds apart from the good vibes, the vinyls and from the menu. Great place for just hits the spot. And that’s
the hustle and bustle of it. the joie de vivre of the place. hemingwaybar.cz/bar-praha a date: no cameras allowed! where Bankers Bar delivers. Cheese boards and charcuterie available, too. Great for a date. TIP: A great spot before or after theatre, and before or after dinner at La Degusta- TIP: Things get merrier when the owner is TIP: Try the Becher Butter Sour for some- tion 15 next door. in the house. Come here just after open- thing Czech, or anything that uses their ing for a lazy afternoon and privacy. large selection of rums. TIP: New to Czech wines? Ask for a tast- ing. The staff will put together a represen- tative sample.
33 L’FLEUR 34 PARLOUR 37 BONVIVANT’S CTC 38 ANONYMOUS V Kolkovně 5, P1 Krakovská 15, P1 Bartolomějská 305, P1 SHRINK’S OFFICE Mo–Su 18–03 Mo-Su 18-01 Mo-Su 16-01 Jungmannova 11, P1 A place by and for fine spirit It is easy to miss this small bar We’d watch Bonvivant‘s lab Su-Th(Fr-Sa) 18-2(3) enthusiasts, L’Fleur is a more near the top of the Wenceslas coat-clad bartenders do laun- The speakeasy bar presents the adult alternative to the Tretter’s Sq. run by true cocktail nerds. dry because they can turn any drinks menu as a Rorschach test, lfleur.cz parlour.cz meat market next door. A vast No menu: just say what you activity into entertainment. with each inkblot card represent- selection of Champagnes from fancy and you’ll get a drink in But they can also fix you a fine ing a signature drink. So don’t the best boutique producers at a vintage glass. This is a refuge cocktail and are not afraid to think about it - just choose what fb.com/BONVIVANTsCTC good prices. Whatever “good for the serious cocktail drinker. serve them all day. Add their you feel like. A much more adult prices” means. And for drunken nibbles, the tapas into the mix so that you bar opened by the people behind
KFC down the road will just don’t feel that guilty about anonymousshrinksoffice.cz the AnonymouS Bar still retains have to do. drinking during the day. the fun element of its parent. TIP: This is how we do it: tell the staff what’s your favorite classic drink to get TIP: Eduard, the co-owner, is the ultimate their own, signature version... or have quirky and witty character. Ask him for any- a glass of Champagne instead. TIP: Hone your cocktail chops before you TIP: The entry door is not where you think thing with local spirits, like a Meruňkovice enter and be prepared to answer many it is, so don’t get surprised. Oh, and you or a Becherovka sour. questions. They want to get your drink just can opt for classic cocktails, too. right and you’ll need to cooperate.
28 BAR & PUBS BAR & PUBS 29 Can you describe the “ar- What else? Bugsy‘s, Black Angels, tisanal cocktail scene” in Anonymous, Bonvivant’s 37 , Prague? Parlour 34 , Le Valmont, Cash Only, La Casa Havana, Tretter‘s, We can be proud of what we Bar & Books and Public Inter- have given Prague’s size: a single est... I simply cannot choose just street can fit great bars that two. serve classic cocktails or pursue modern trends. You will appre- What drinks should a visitor ciate the bars’ proximity to each to Prague order? other, the variety, the hospitality, and the prices. And the Prague Try the signature drinks of bartending community sticks Prague’s cocktail bars, then add together. Add patrons eager to the classics for comparison. explore, liquor distributors eager Czech beer is a must (focus to educate, and the generous on the microbreweries). Have “Czechoslovak Bar Mafia” run- the classic Becherovka liquor ning bars abroad and willing to and anything from our beloved share the newest trends, and you distiller Martin Žufánek. You’ll be get a great Prague bar scene. happy.
Your three favourite bars Your secret tip for Prague? in Prague? There’s so many! I like the Prague Tough question. Of course, I like ZOO, or just a stroll through the my bar, L’Fleur. I’ve built it ex- Vyšehrad fortress VII . And when actly the way I wanted. But first it comes to tasting Prague, look and foremost, the Hemingway out for the pop-ups by Tamarind Bar. That’s where I have become Tree and Forbidden Taste. Not MILOŠ a true mixologist. I love the work Czech but great. You’ll be wowed. and creativity of its people, its drinks, all of it.
Miloš is the “rug that ties the room together” when it comes to the Prague bar scene: having left the lauded Hemingway Bar 35 and opening L’Fleur 33 (named after his grandma who paid for his first Miloš mixologist/owner at L’Fleur bartending courses), he’s friends with probably every bartender in Instagram: @milosdanihelka town and the best ambassador for the noble profession.
30 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 31 CAFÉS How would you describe the or an espresso from the beautiful “coffee scene” here in Prague? Kees van der Westen lever machine at onesip coffee 39 . Better then ever! Lots of If you want to escape the city diversity, varied shop concepts, for a while, visit Kavárna pod amazing selection of local and Pavlačí, a reconstructed baroque international roasters, and homestead on the outskirts foremost a lively and growing of Prague. barista community. The biggest challenge for most owners is What coffee should foreign how little coffee actually gets visitors to Prague taste? sold due to the non-existent take-away culture. However, this Czechs love a drink. I would can be seen as an advantage by definitely recommend coffee customers, as cafes have to offer in combination with spirits. food, beer, wine and have long With our Slovak neighbours, we opening hours to survive. What is have some of the top bartenders missing is more confidence and and baristas in the world. Play it determination that would attract safe and choose the traditional „big money“ and more generous Irish coffee, or go crazy and projects. Specialty coffee in pick a signature drink usually Prague is still mostly about small on the shop’s coffee menu. independent shops. Your secret tip for Prague? Your three favorite places for Photo: Tomáš Zumr coffee in Prague? Go for a morning run to Šárka or Hvězda park. Have a beer I honestly rarely drink coffee at Přístav 18600 in the summer. JARDA outside of our own shops. Visit Tea Mountain in Karlín After a long day in the roastery, and ask what’s new on the menu. Doubleshot nearly single-handedly brought specialty coffee to I’d rather go for tea or beer. If you are touring the Castle, But I will always enjoy a cup walk up to kavárna Nový svět I Prague, and Jarda has been at the helm of the ubiquitous Prague of perfectly brewed filter coffee and make sure to grab a table roasters from the very beginning. He will cup you under the table. at the Saturday’s Brew Bar at the at the tiny patio overlooking (Can you actually do that?) Anyway, true Mr Coffee and one of the Náplavka farmers market 57 , the garden. most respected people on the local coffee scene who knows everyone and everything is also a no-thrills, down-to-earth guy that is Jarda Owner of doubleshot roasters a true joy to be around. Instagram: @doubleshot
34 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 35 39 ONESIP COFFEE 40 EMA 43 SUPER TRAMP 44 ALF&BET Haštalská 15, Prague 1 ESPRESSO BAR COFFEE Světova 2, P8 (Su)Mo-Fr (10)9-(17)18 Mo-Fr 8-18, Sa,Su 9-17 Na Florenci 3, P1 Opatovická 18 / Spálená 15, P1 Our favourite tiny espresso bar Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa-Su 10-18 Mo-Fr 8-20, Su 10-17 You know how your favorite tucked away in the Haštalská EMA proves how mainstream good Hidden in a courtyard of an old coffee shop has began roasting st. has become the destination coffee has become in Prague. It printing house, you must know its own coffee? Add baking, and for Prague’s baristas... and girls. is an “espresso bar” just like the about Supertramp to find it. you get Alf&Bet. The quiet sis- onesip.coffee The attraction? Excellent cof- Hummer is a “car”: it retains the An oasis of calm that attracts ter of EMA 40 and Café Lounge 17
fee by European micro-roasters basic principles - great coffee and younger crowds in the know: fbcom/alfabetprague , A&B is great for work or a from the cool Kees van der no wifi - just bigger. Minimalist in- good coffee, old Bowie spinning lazy summer afternoon as the emaespressobar.cz/en Westen espresso machine, and teriors and old-time school seats, on the turntable, and some fresh- large garage doors open to the Adam and Zdeněk, two cutest but there’s nothing old-school ly baked goodies. And a glass of quiet street of the quiet, lazy fb.com/supertrampcoffee.cz baristas in town. Tiny! about the crowds. natural wine before you get back street of the Palmovka area. into the madness of the city.
TIP: Great place to get some beans home, TIP: Come before - or after - the busy TIP: Bring your own wifi. Use A&B as the too. Ask about candycane coffee - their lunch hour. Consult your coffee with the start for a local exploration as you walk TIP: No wifi. And that’s a good thing. new venture into roasting. baristas if you’re finicky. And snatch the back to the centre through Karlín or (But great for work if you don’t need to last plum jam buchta bun in the morning! Holešovice. be online.)
41 MŮJ ŠÁLEK KÁVY 42 KAVÁRNA MÍSTO 45 CAFÉ JEN 46 KAFEMAT Křižíkova 105, P8 Bubenečská 12, P6 Kodaňská 37, P10 Dejvická 3, P6 Mo-Sa 9-22, Su 10-18 Mo-Sa 9-22, Su 10-18 Mo-Fr 7:30-18, Sa-Su 9-18 Mo-Fr 8-18, Sa 9.30-15
You can’t blame us for going to the The third coffee shop by the Hanka and Domča, the owners, Whether you’ll like Kafemat Karlín district just to visit MŠK. Doubleshot coffee roasters are friends. And you’ll feel like depends on whether you like This lively café of the ubiqui- brews consistently great one after a single visit. This cute kids: it can look like a kinder- cafejen.cz tous Doubleshot roasters offers coffee but adds modern, light little bistro serves honest snacks garten around 11am as neighbor- mistoprovas.cz
mujsalekkavy.cz consistently great coffee, simple interiors, cakes, small dishes and great coffee right next to hood moms and dads stop for dishes, nice cakes (some of them and daily soups, and the odd the Grébovka vinyeard X and a cuppa. But if you want to have gluten-free), breakfast all day over coffee-based cocktail. A great the hipster heaven that is the fb.com/kafematdejvice great coffee in a neighborhood weekends. And we’d sit in their alternative to the hipster canon Krymská street. espresso bar with a happy, family summer outdoor seating all year all around. atmosphere, look no further. long. Okay, maybe except in the winter. TIP: Breakfast is the name of the game here, so start your day with one. No ques- TIP: Sit in the left corner of the stairs if you TIP: Try to grab a seat in the window for tions asked: they serve it all day long. want privacy but still see everyone. Also, ultimate comfort. If you see an adorable the peanut věneček choux pastry (a.k.a. 9-month old, smile. That’s our son JJ. TIP: Try the tasting set of three filters. poor man’s foie gras). (Yup, we’re part of the club.) Comes with a quiz.
36 CAFÉS CAFÉS 37 47 ORIGINAL 48 MOMOICHI 50 TEA MOUNTAIN COFFEE COFFETEARIA Křižíkova 488/115, P8 Mo-Fr 11-20, Sa-Su 14.30-20 Betlémská 12, P1 Římská 1199/35, P2 Mo-Fr 8-19, Sa-Su 10-19 Mo-Fr(Sa) 8(10)-22, Su 10-18 The best tea room in Central Europe? Yes. We said it. Big focus on Dar- A specialty coffee offshoot of Japanese coffee & tea house in jeeling, Japanese and Taiwanese teas without the annoying new-age the mamacoffee empire, this Prague? Why not? Just have a cup vibe in a nicely designed, modern room with Japanese touches. Thirty- student hangout is a great place of Steampunk-prepared filter cof- year-old oolongs? They have them. Taste some tea on the spot or buy for work: good coffee, small fee or tea, macha-flavored sweets some to go from the staff who clearly know much more about tea than momoichi.cz/en snacks, lots of power outlets or something from their fresh, www.teamountain.cz we do. Btw, Zuzi thinks this is the best place for work in Prague. and strong wifi. And quite often eclectic menu in a minimalist originalcoffee.cz/en complete solitude near the cra- room with some Oriental touches, ziness of the Charles Bridge. and you’ll find yourself saying TIP: Get a tasting menu. Let the staff choose. Four teas is enough but make sure you also get the buttery biscuit. That’s a must. Visiting with friends who are not into tea? Just order wine Konnichiwa to the baristas more from Veltlin 29 next door. TIP: They sell chocolates by Ajala, than you might thing. a Brno-based chocolatier. The perfect companion to coffee? Probably.
TIP: Surprisingly nice Saturday brunch offerings and… wait for it… full English tea service by appointment.
49 OTHER CAFES
a Kafe Karlín, Sokolovská 46/51, d Coffee room., Korunní 74, P2, P8, Mo-Fr 7.30-18.30 Mo-Fr 8-18.30, Sa 9-18 kafekarlin.cz coffeeroom.cz
b Sólista, Milady Horákové 48 P7, e Barry Higgel’s Coffeehouse, Tusaro- Mo-Fr 8-18, Sa-Su 9-17.30, va 25,P7, Mo-Fr 7.30-18.30, Sa(Su) solistaespressobar.cz 9(10)-18 fb.com/BarryHiggel1704
c I Need Coffee!, Na Moráni 7, f Kavárna co hledá jméno, Stroupežnic- P2, Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa 10-17 kého 10, P5, (Mo)Tu-Sa (12)8-22, fb.com/ineedcoffee.cz Su 9-19, kavarnacohledajmeno.cz
Other notable fuel stations for your coffee addiction: Kafe Karlín, a tiny espresso bar of Adam & Zdeněk, Prague’s good coffee pioneers. Sólista, for many serving the best espresso in town. I Need Coffee! for a great room with hip design and great (in)edible gifts. Coffee room for cool youngsters eating avocado toasts and the occasional donut. Barry Higgel’s CH for a wide selection of European specialty roasters, and Kavárna co hledá jméno for the interiors and vibe.
38 CAFÉS CAFÉS 39 BAKERIES AND SWEETS 51 CAFÉ SAVOY 52 MYŠÁK 55 PASTRY SHOPS Vítězná 5, P1 Vodičkova 31, P1 Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 8(9)-22.30 Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa-Su 9-20 a Erhartova cukrárna, Milady c St Tropez, Vodičkova 28, P1, Horákové 56, P7, Mo-Su 10-19, Mo-Fr 8-20, Sa(Su) 9(10)-19, Hipsters look down on the Opened in 1911 and successful- erhartovacukrarna.cz/en cukrarnatropez.cz Savoy, but they’re wrong. Come ly redesigned in 2017, Myšák for the stunning interiors, stay has been a staple for decades, b IF Café, Tylovo nám. 2, P2, d Cukrář Skála, V Celnici 6, P1, Mo-Su 8-20, Mo-Fr(Sa,Su) 7.30(9)-20, for big breakfasts, schnitzels, even under Communism.
mysak.ambi.cz ifcafe.cz cukrarskala.cz soups and the best Czech Now with a focus on specialty cafesavoy.ambi.cz pastries (ask for “our” tasting coffee, open-faced sandwiches, Finding a good Czech pastry shop is surprisingly hard, given our strong plate). This all-day eatery is the heart-stopping pastries and tradition. Visit Erhart Café for Czech classics and a “First Repub- place to watch elegant expats big ice-cream sundaes, this is lic” 1930s visuals. IF Café, opened by Czech Top Chef’s finalist Iveta and locals, old money or new. a place where Czechs old school Fabešová, is a local hotspot for French pastries, just as St Tropez, which meets new school. adds the “I-wound-have-never-found-this” factor (and interiors so pink it makes Legally Blonde look like the Adams family). Finally, Cukrář Skála TIP: Don’t forget to visit their washrooms: focuses on Czech traditional pastries with a modern twist. watching bakers at work is magic. Just TIP: For that classic feeling, have the pull a chair (there is one) and enjoy! potato salad-and-ham chlebicek, followed by vetrnik choux pastry.
53 PRAKTIKA 54 OH DEER BAKERY 56 ICE-CREAM PARLOURS Bělehradská 66, P2 Bělehradská 62, P2 a Zmrzlinář, Slezská 15, P2, Angelato, Rytířská 27, P1 Mo, We, Fr 8-19 Mo-Fr 8-17, Sa 9-14 c Mo-Su 12-20 (or Újezd 24, P1) Mo-Su 11- The best bakery in Prague? Don’t Fancy a cronut but don’t want zmrzlinar.cz 20/21/22*, angelato.cz
expect faux-straw baskets and to stand the line at Dominique b Crème de la Crème, Husova 12 d Puro Gelato, Na Hrobci 410/1, other nonsense. Tomáš, the Ansel’s bakery in NYC? You’re (or Národní 23), P1, P2, (or Kaprova 11, P1) young baker, keeps it simple: one flight to Prague away from Su-Th(Fr,Sa) 10-22(23) Mo-Su 9-21, cremecreme.cz purogelato.cz
a bar, three tables, a coffee ma- ohdeerbakery.cz your solution: the cronuts at Oh
chlebicky-praha.cz chine, and fantastic sourdough Deer bakery. You are right - this If you have an ice-cream itch, four places in Prague will scratch it. breads with a few pastries. is super random. But that does Zmrzlinář sells 2AD gelato in hip, designer setting to families from the Check their opening times be- not make it not delicious. Vinohrady neighborhood. Crème de la Crème serves great gelato and fore you go. They tend to change. vegan options, minus the attitude. Angelato serves it’s classic gelato in two conveniently positioned locations in the centre, while Puro Gelato TIP: Get the coffee (and bread) at Praktika offers some interesting flavor combinations. 53 next door and sit in the Folimanka TIP: Their bread-butter-jam or bread-paté park. Follow through to the river, Botanical breakfast combos with filter coffee are Garden or CAMP Prague. worth the visit alone. Check out their stand at the Kulaťák 59 farmers market *(depending on season) on Saturdays.
42 BAKERIES AND SWEETS BAKERIES AND SWEETS 43 How would you describe bottle of wine yet, and they will, the baby scene in Prague? so I am totally fine.
It’s good to be a baby in Prague Alf&Bet 44 right now. It seems everybody Again, love doing tummy time has a kid date nowadays, watching the bakers do their although I was born before it was thing. Also, my parents get lots cool. We are happy our moms of work done here, and the or dads can get three years off coffee is great. Bonus: they have if they want, so we have lots of a big maneki-neko (you know, the time to play together. Wish there waving Japanese cat) there, and was more baby shopping here. we have long staring matches I know my parents would spend together. more on clothing for me if given the chance. Secret tip in Prague? U Apolináře maternity hospital. Your three favorite places in I was born here. Great memories. Prague? Also, a beautiful building from 1875. Follow for a quiet walk to Kafemat 46 the Ztracenka park, and then I live nearby, with mom and dad. perhaps the Botanical Garden Kafemat is like daycare for both and a meal at QQ Asian Kitchen us, kids, and the parents. It’s tiny 14 . but I always meet some of my friends (like Meda, she’s super Photo: Everbay.co cool and has four teeth - I have none, yet) and the parents get to drink good coffee. They say they MR JJ need it. I have no idea why. 18 His videos are so cute they have lead to spontaneous pregnancies. Eska I love watching chefs cook. Just Seven months old as of the writing of this, Mr JJ, the lovable son of gimme some tummy time on Zuzi and Jan, is a joy giver, bringing smiles (and loots of saliva and the table in front of the open poop) wherever he goes. He’s also an avid traveller and a foodie, kitchen, and I am happy camper. having drooled in the best restaurants in LA, Mexico City, Rome or I do this even with other people Mr JJ Paris. Hasn’t met a food he did not like. His biggest wish right now? sitting there. Don’t care. I know Spiritual leader at Taste of Prague At least two teeth would be nice. my parents haven’t finished that Instagram: @jjeatsaround
44 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 45 FARMERS’ MARKETS 57 NÁPLAVKA 58 JIŘÁK Rašínovo nábř. riverside, P2 Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad, P2 Sa 8–14 We-Fr(Sa) 8-18(14)
Locals start their Saturday at The only market that is open this market and so should you: Wednesdays through Saturdays, local produce, hot meals, sun, what the Jiřák market lacks in booze, a live band, and the size makes up for in neighborly swans get fed, too. We come atmosphere and local vibe... and farmarsketrziste.cz for filter coffee by Brewbar farmarsketrziste.cz benches! Great coffee by Kávový and espresso by Kávový klub, klub, good food and a friendly cheeses by Krasolesí and atmosphere fill us with joy. Great whatever fruits or veggies are in location to explore, too: Pho at season. (Or handicrafts in the Pho Vietnam, coffee at coffee d winter.) Combine with Vyšehrad room 49 , burgers at The Tavern, fortress VII before and a walk baguettes at Le Caveau and beers back to the centre after. at Beergeek 23 are all nearby.
59 KULAŤÁK 60 HOLEŠOVICKÉ Vítězné náměstí, P6 TRŽIŠTĚ Sa 8–14 Bubenské nábř. 13, P7 (Hall 22) Our “home” market is pretty big, Mo-Fr(Sa) 7.30-17(14) with nearly 100 stands. Coffee The Holešovice market is a bizarre by Kávový klub, breads by place with stands of fake purses Pekárna Praktika bakery 53 , and the cheapest, mistery-meat and classic Czech pastries from butcher shops, but Hall 22 is a farmarske-trhy.cz the stand with the longest line must if you want to meet Czech holesovickytrh.cz will fill you with sugar and guilt farmers and taste their produce for the rest of your stay. Come throughout the week. To turn the hungry: this market offers lots bizarre up to 11, have coffee at of hot foods. Check out the Alza Café in the pick-up area of nearby National Technical Li- Alza computer store’s warehouse. brary and the Bubeneč district Finish with a bowl of Pho at Tràng afterwards! An , or continue to Dox III .
48 FARMERS‘MARKETS FARMERS‘MARKETS 49 SHOPPING FRENZY WITH A DIFFERENCE How would you describe the What should a visitor bring independent designer scene home from Prague? in Prague? Experiences, and possibly Small, but a quickly growing something that tells a story. bubble with a great potential that It will hold a much bigger value. has many stories waiting to be Go for something strictly local. told to the world. I love soaps. You touch them every day, so they will be a daily Three shops you liked to visit? reminder of your Prague trip. My favorite is the manually The beautiful LEEDA 63 , whose shaped black soap by Helena designers used to cooperate Heinz, or the soaps by the Czech with Jan Kaplický, the architect. niche brand Ushuaya. Sadly, that isn’t an option anymore. I keep coming back Your secret tip for Prague? to the handy little belt with a suspender buckle that will give My favorite secret place an edge to any outfit from a in Prague is by the Emmaus dress to a coat. A must have! Monastery, ideally at sunset with I happen to have my workshop a view of the river. Right next in the SmetanaQ 61 concept door you’ll find the newly opened nearby, which includes a design CAMP - Center for Architecture store, coffee shop, gallery with and Metropolitan Planning VIII in a view of the Prague Castle, and Karel Pragner’s modernist cube BOTTEGAS, small workshops of from the late 60s with a coffee Czech clothing, shoe and jewelry shop, gallery and an amazing Photo: Jan Burkert designers on the 1st floor. In the bookstore focusing on design centre, I’d recommend you visit and architecture. Then just walk the store of my colleagues from down to Prague’s hippest place – IVA Chatty 77 (beautiful denim and the Náplavka riverside IX . other pieces), and Debut Gallery & Shop 62 , especially for those Featured in the Czech Forbes’ 30 under 30, Iva is one of the brightest who love jewelry. stars of young Czech fashion as the owner and designer of the ODIVI brand that has reached quite a bit of following. Just like her pieces, she is bold, yet elegant, and young in spirit and mind, a risk-taker that Iva Fashion designer/owner at ODIVI projects honesty and ambition. So yes, you can say we like her. Instagram: @messyhairlife
52 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW 53 61 DEELIVE 62 DEBUT GALLERY 65 CIHELNA 66 QUBUS+BOMMA Smetanovo nábř. 4, P1 & SHOP CONCEPT STORE Rámová 3, P1 Mo-Su 10-20 Mo-Sa 11-19 Malé nám. 12, Kaprova 14/13, P1 Cihelná 2B, P1 Arguably the only design store Mo-Su 11-20, Mo-Su 10-20 Mo-Su 11-19 Want crème de la crème of with a castle view in Prague, Two sombre oases in two of the What may seem a small hut Czech modern glass? Head Deelive carries a varied selec- most touristy spots in Prague, next to some of the biggest over to this rather small space deelive.cz tion of modern Czech design Debut Gallery and Debut Shop tourist traps in town is actually in the rather small street. - anything from stationery to qubusbomma.cz use their personal ties with a curated selection of some The store feels like the Who’s books to fashion to jewelry top young Czech designers to of the best modern Czech Who of 21st Century Czech and large glass installations.
www.debutgallery.cz bring the best of Czech jewelry, design by household names design: Olgoj Chorchoj, Maxim The beautiful space will satisfy www.cihelnaprague.com nearly every interest and nearly interior and fashion design to and up-and-coming stars. Very Velčovský, Dechem or Jakub every budget. the masses... of tourists who dangerous stuff. You see. They Berdych. It does not get better just pass by without noticing. ship. You buy. than this. TIP: The best part? Walking up to the 1st They’re missing out. floor ”bottega” - a central retail space TIP: Jewelry by Zorya, porcelain by Pirsc, TIP: Phenomena light fixtures by Dechem with racks, surrounded by the workshops glass by Dechem or Bomma, or lights by will stun with their beauty. Anything by of the designers who sell their fashion TIP: Go to Debut Shop to buy smaller Koldová. We could max our credit cards Maxim Velčovský for entertainment value. pieces there. items and fashion accessories. Debut here in an instant. Gallery carries the same plus more substantial items. See both - they’re a 3-minute walk apart.
63 LEEDA 64 LA GALLERY 67 HARDDECORE 68 100CLASS Bartolomějská 1, P1 NOVESTA Senovážné nám. 10, P1 CONCEPT STORE Mo-Sa 11-19 Mo-Fr(Sa) 11-19(17) Elišky Krásnohorské 9, P1 Soukenická 30, P1 Let’s face it: if Leeda was good Mo-Fr(Sa) 11-19(18) Harddecore carries a bit of just Mo-Fr 13-19, Sa 12-16 enough for Tilda Swinton, who One of the largest portfolios in about anything from fashion Tucked away in the Soukenická bought a few pieces on her last town, La Gallery is a great stop design to tableware, jewelry street, the beautiful and sim-
www.leeda.cz visit, it is good enough for us, on your hunt for modern Czech or home accessories: a true plistic store carries a selection harddecore.cz lagallery.cz
too. Deceptively simple pieces fashion. Available in all styles one-stop shop for reasonably stoclass.com of minimalist fashion pieces, of clothing and a small but in- and price points, they definite- priced but well-designed pieces leather accessories and jewelry teresting selection of accesso- ly have something you’ll like, by an array of young Czech painstakingly curated by Vendy, ries by young Czech designers so if you’re walking out of La designers in a great room with the owner and founder. Let in a tiny room. Gallery without a purchase, you lots of light. her guide you and present the have only yourself to blame. pieces in her collection and the TIP: We like the Blueberries jewelry and TIP: Tomski & Polanski, who decorated our authors behind them. accessories made on 3D printers. rental apartment, sell a set of funny bowls TIP: You don’t have to kill for a Jakub here. Easy. Polanka piece anymore. You can just buy TIP: For more leather bags and pieces, it here. head over to Luciela Taschen at Petrská 10 just 5 minutes away.
54 SHOPPING FRENZY WTIH A DIFFERENCE 55 69 BOTAS 66 70 BACKYARD 73 PAPELOTE 74 HRAČKOTÉKA a Skořepka 4, P1 V Jirchařích 8, P1 Vojtěšská 9, P1 POP-UP Mo-Sa(Su) 10(11)-19(17) Mo-Fr 13-19 Mo-Fr 11-19, Sa 12-18 Růžová 7, P1 b Křížkovského 18, P3 Part shop, part showroom, Stucco walls decorated with a Tu-Fr 9-18 Mo-Fr(Sa) 11-19(17) part cooperative, BackYard is grid of paper clips, shelves full Needs some gifts for those A pair of Botas 66 sneakers will a great opportunity to see the of notepads and diaries, and pesky kids? Avoid the portal to add a healthy dose of cool to works of modern Czech design- a central bar with pencils and hell that is Hamley’s, and shop
your souvenir collection: the ers in a hidden gem of a space, www.papelote.cz tapes: Papelote is a kingdom of like a respectable adult in this hrackoteka.cz www.back-yard.cz
botas66.com only sneaker available under not visible from the street. paper and stationery, and the tiny corner store. They carry Communism has been resur- Products range from clothing to choice for many local creative anything from toys to children’s rected by two young designers jewelry to sunglasses and other professionals, students and books and clothing, but always (who own the two funky shops accessories, but they’re always paper freaks alike. made by independent Czech in town) and turned into a hip- hip and fun. designers with sustainability ster favorite. TIP: Buy their diary. You will know the in mind. Czech names for the days of the week in TIP: Check their website to see which no time. designer is on duty that particular day, and TIP: Buy the vegan model if you do TIP: Also check out the cool Houbeles come for a chat! crossfit. But what will you talk about first? shop next door to get into the psyche of (Haha.) the Czech mushroom aficionado.
71 KOH-I-NOOR 72 INGREDIENTS 75 HUGO CHODÍ BOS 76 VEVERKOVA a Na Příkopě 24, P1, Mo–Su 10–20 Jáchymova 2, P1 Řeznická 1374/12, P1 STREET Mo-Fr 10-19, Sa 11-18 Mo-Fr 10-18, Sa 11-16 b Nerudova 13, P1, Mo–Su 10–19 Veverkova 8, P7 Tired of the usual suspects Kids? They can cry their hearts It all revolves around the popular Unlike many in the historical at Sephora? With scents by out. We’d buy everything in this Bistro 8. Page Five for mag- center, these little brand stores high-end, niche perfumers wonderful kids store for our- azines and posters. Garage/ of the traditional Czech pencils from all around the world, the selves, and we’d never share. Sneaker Barber for vinyls and producer founded in 1790 do only smell you’ll be missing Toys, clothing, furniture and sneakers. Jakoby for modern
not dwell in the company’s is that of the money you will www.hugochodibos.cz books for children by the best Czech fashion. Látky s příběhem www.koh-i-noor.cz rich past, but focus on playful, have left behind. Check out the Czech manufacturers are a joy fb.com/uliceveverkova for cool fabrics. Recycle with en.ingredients-store.cz colourful present. They in- beauty shop and salon in the to spend money on. Love for vintage clothing. vented the no. 2 pencil. You’re basement. welcome, world. TIP: Check out Fatra’s classic inflatable TIP: Refresh yourself at Bar Cobra on the toys by Libuše Niklová, or the newer corner of Milady Horákové and continue TIP: Zuzi’s favorite shop in Prague sells designs by young designers following in for more shopping to Koncept Story, Hnst.ly, Zuzi’s favorite perfume: Baccarat Rouge TIP: Mechanical pencils! Unscrew them her footsteps. Galerie Září and Lab 24 all nearby. 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The se- and get a spit gun for free. Thank you, cret’s out. McGyver!
56 SHOPPING FRENZY WTIH A DIFFERENCE 57 77 OTHER NOTABLE SHOPS
a Chatty, Haštalská 21, P1, f Metamorphosis, Haštalská 3, Mo-Fr 13-18, chatty.cz P1, Mo-Fr(Sa) 9-19(18), Su 10-16, metamorphosis.cz b Český porcelán, Perlová 1, P1, Mo-Fr(Sa) 9-18(13) g Artěl, U Lužického semináře 7, cesky.porcelan.cz P1, Mo-Su 10-19, artelglass.com
c Book Therapy, h Playbag, Bořivojova 106, P3, Římská 35, P2, Mo-Fr 12-20, Mo-Fr 13-20, Sa 11-15, Sa 11-17 booktherapy.cz playbag.cz
d Denim Heads/BellaBrutta, i K-A-V-K-A books, Konviktská 30, P1, Krocínova 5, P1, Mo-Fr 12-20, Mo-Sa 11-19, denimheads.cz kavkaartbooks.com
e Shit happen, j Xaoxax, Krymská 29, P10, Anny Letenské 8, P2, Tu-Fr 14-19, Sa 11-17, Mo-Fr 11-17, shit-happens.cz xaoxax.cz
Ran out of shopping tips? We know how that feels. Don’t worry. Here’s some more: While Chatty and Denim Heads/BellaBrutta will satisfy visiting fashionistas, Shit happens and Artěl will supply the glass and ceramic pieces that will go well right next to the beautiful tabletop book you got in K-A-V-K-A or Book Therapy. Blue onion design plates from Český porcelán, and a children’s book at Xaoxax. Throw it all in a backpack by Playbag. Combine with flowers from Metamorphosis.
58 SHOPPING FRENZY WTIH A DIFFERENCE 59 WIENER SAUSAGES YOU DID NOT @ NAŠE MASO 5 Wieners may be the breakfast of Czech champions, but hey, COME TO PRAGUE you’re on vacation and you can have them anytime! Have the “vari- ace”: three types of juicy, smoky Wieners with mustard. Here’s our TO EAT ITALIAN, preferred order: 1) standard, 2) beef, 3) Debrecen. Enjoy the snap! DID YOU? SVÍČKOVÁ @ NA PEKÁRNĚ Wonder why Czechs rank high on WHO’s obesity list? Just Here’s the best Czech bites in Prague: have Chef Frič’s tender, slow-cooked beef in deep and rich creamy root vegetable sauce with Carlsbad dumplings, and you’ll understand. Uber gets you to the Čakovičky village and back, and it’s worth the food and adventure. ROAST DUCK @ U BANSETHŮ SCHNITZEL WITH POTATO SALAD 51 It’s hard for us to have the roast duck filled with dumplings and @ CAFÉ SAVOY sauerkraut (while washing it down with a cold, fresh Pilsner) and A Sunday lunch classic. Potato salad is part of the Czech not sing the national anthem. It’s the ultimate Czech lunch. This classic Christmas dinner, and breading schnitzels is the first salty, fatty, sweet, acidic, and bitter combo has everything. thing we let kids do in the kitchen. Cafe Savoy’s version with cranberry compote is huge but hugely satisfying. BEEF STEAK TARTARE @ KANTYNA 1 FRIED CHEESE What? The Italian railway builders who brought bruschettas to @ LOKÁL 3 the Czech Republic in the late 1800s put tomatoes on them? Hey, It tells you something about the plight of vegetarians here nobody’s perfect. Just rub the raw garlic in and add a fat layer of when the classic Czech vegetarian dish is fried, not seasonal this raw goodness. This ultimate beer snack will keep you want- at all, and does not contain any actual vegetables. Still, the ing more. A word of caution: the garlic is stroooong. gooey, rich cheese in the crispy breading served with tartare sauce is so wrong it’s actually good. For an updated version in KULAJDA a slider, visit Maso a kobliha. @ CAFÉ IMPERIAL Fall and winter are clearly the seasons for soup, and there GOULASH aren’t many better soups in Prague than the classic kulajda at @ MINCOVNA Café Imperial: the creamy potato soup with mushrooms, dill, Goulash is like a burger: everybody knows what it is, but every vinegar and poached egg is a Czech classic we’d like to take restaurant has it’s own take on the classic dish. Mincovna a dip in. Sooo satisfying. does the beef stew just right: deep, rich, salty and satisfying, you just want to wear it as a blanket. A winter must.
60 CZECH BITES BEST CZECH GRUB IN TOWN 61 MÍŠA DEZERT KREMROLE @ CAFÉ JEN 45 @ KULAŤÁK FARMERS MARKET 59 Inspired by a very popular ice cream from the Communist The best Czech pastry on the Kulaťák farmers market. Just 60s, the Míša dessert retains all its classic features, like the look for the longest line. We recommend you buy two because combination of sweet farmers cheese and chocolate, but adds the puff pastry roll filled with soft merengue cream is so good good ingredients and lots of love. Finish your breakfast at you’ll definitely want a second one. Trust us, it’s worth waiting Café Jen with this truly Czech treat. in line for. FRUIT DUMPLINGS KOLÁČE @ KRYSTAL BISTRO @ ESKA 18 These warm yeast dough buns with fruit filling served with It’s embarrassing that Prague doesn’t offer more great melted butter and sugar were our school cafeteria favourites. kolache, the one pastry Czechs can be identified with. But Don’t have that childhood memory? That’s okay. You can still Eska’s version will do: their slightly bready kolache with great enjoy the entirely Czech phenomenon that is the “warm sweet farmers’ cheese and plum jam is less sweet, so you won’t feel dish”. BYOLP. (Bring your own Lipitor pills.) that guilty. Win win! BUCHTY BUNS @ EMA ESPRESSO BAR 40 Yes. EMA Espresso Bar may look like a hipster haven. But their buchta buns, made by famous Czech blogger Chez Lucie, are the stuff grandma memories are made of. Plum jam is the best. Come in the morning. They run out of them quickly.
VĚTRNÍK @ MYŠÁK 52 AND FOUR BIG NO-NO’S! “Why isn’t this more famous?” asked many guests of our food You’re loosing all your street cred if you do any of the follow- tours on tasting the mighty větrník. Yes, the choux pastry, ing in Prague: vanilla cream, caramel whipped cream and caramel fondant are the thing dreams are made of. Head over to the reopened Order dumplings with something that has no sauce, 1911 café for the finest one in Prague. like fried cheese. No!
CHLEBÍČEK Share beer by pouring it from one glass to another. Gross! @ SISTERS 4 Along with alcohol, the classic Czech open-faced sandwich Fold the chlebíček open-faced sandwich. This ain’t a pizza. has been making family reunions and corporate events a bit more bearable since the 1920s. Come to Sisters for a modern Eat a trdelník with ice-cream and share it on social media. take on the classic. #trdelnikisnotczech
62 CZECH BITES BEST CZECH GRUB IN TOWN 63 WILD BOAR IN ROSEHIP SAUCE BEST BITES IN @ NA PEKÁRNĚ Not technically in Prague but worth the food pilgrimage. Mr Frič will PRAGUE, NOT kidnap you into a parallel universe where regular village pubs serve STRICTLY CZECH the best Czech food. Go to Kastrol for the second best version. BEEF SLIDERS @ MR HOT DOG 2 SEKANÁ No idea why small burgers are now “sliders”. But we know that @ NAŠE MASO 5 one isn’t enough. This is perfection: juicy beef, crispy bacon, Honestly, meatloaf should not be as good as this: fairly cheap melty cheese in the right bun. ‘Nuff said. Order two. but highly addictive, its legality should be questioned. Get the smoked pork cracklings for added natural high. SMOKED PORK CRACKLINGS @ NAŠE MASO 5 BEEF STEAK TARTARE Remember Dusting Hoffman in the church scene of The @ LA DEGUSTATION 15 Graduate? That’s us, but we’re drunk, and we’re at Naše maso. Not even a main course, the small, Oreo cookie-like tartare is Smoked pork cracklings answer every question under the influ- worth the price of admission alone. They act like one is enough ence. Trust us. And they DO have them, hidden. Be assertive. but we strongly disagree. BREAD AND BUTTER BEEF CARPACCIO @ PRAKTIKA BAKERY 53 @ KANTÝNA 1 What does it take to recreate a childhood memory of fresh, A bite of the beef with the Gran Moravia emulsion and arugula moist bread with crunchy crust and a thick slice of butter? will make you ask why they don’t make it more often because we It takes a hippie young baker in New Balance sneakers. Add would give our card’s pin number for this. Steak tartare is our jam/paté with pickles and coffee for ultimate happiness. second favourite when the carpaccio is not on the menu. POTATOES IN ASH SCOTCH EGGS @ ESKA 18 @ MASO A KOBLIHA The ultimate campfire-baked potato gets a fresh overhaul: Crispy on the outside and with juicy meat and runny yolk inside, smoky, comforting and creamy with extra umami from the it is sooo wrong but sooooo delicious. Wash it down with Czech dried yolks, we could lick the bowl every time. And the craft beer and have a custard donut for a strong finish. smoked carp will change the way you look at this fish. PORK BELLY OYSTER MINI PO’ BOYS @ SANSHO 19 @ QQ ASIAN KITCHEN 14 When we serve our guests Sansho’s pork belly dish, the first Having oysters in Prague is the polar opposite of “local”, but one bite is followed by a moment of dreamy silence. That’s how bite, and you’ll forget about all the buzzwords. Proves the theory good it is. This will ruin “fat free” for you forever. that if you fry anything and serve it in a bun, it’ll be good.
64 BEST BITES IN PRAGUE NOT STRICTLY CZECH 65 WHERE WE’D is the closest to Pizza Napoletana you can get in Prague, with a surprisingly funky wine list, too. And look for Pizze di Frankie or Pizz’n’Prague on Face- GO FOR… book. They may have a pop-up while you’re here! ASIAN CZECH When we crave Asian, Sansho 19 and QQ Asian Kitchen 14 deliver. The Lokál 3 is the ground zero for Czech pub food and Pilsners. For an old- former uses organic ingredients. The latter boasts effortless cooking. Viet- school version, check out U Bansethů 6 . If you’re willing to travel for namese, anyone? A bowl of Pho at Pho Vietnam or banh mí sandwiches at honest Czech food, get an Uber to Kastrol or Na Pekárně. Want to stay in Banh mi makers 7 will do you some good. For modern Vietnamese fusion, the centre? Next Door and Cafe Savoy 51 are both classy establishments check out Taro 21 . serving some true Czech classics. LIGHTER EATS BRUNCH Prague’s vegetables are hiding in Asian cuisine. QQ Asian Kitchen (14), San- We go to Eska 18 for that feeling you did something healthy for you, even if sho (19), Banh mi makers 7 or Taro 21 are our picks. Need Czech? Sisters you had a ton of pancakes. Cafe Savoy 51 is a Sunday brunch classic. Have 4 offers a quick bite, while Eska 18 out-cooks every “vegetarian restaurant” the Champagne! You deserve it. Bottegas 8 are rolling some pretty sweet in town with one arm tied behind it’s back. brunches with an Italian twist. For good vibes, neighborly feel and great food, head over to Café Jen 45 . WITH KIDS Have kids and the babysitter’s sick? Wine Food Market 10 and Pizza Nuova are DATE DINNER THE places when the craving for spaghetti or pizza sets in. Alf&Bet 44 has a Bottega Linka 8 e offers beautiful interiors and solid, Italian-inspired foosball table and plenty of room. Or leave the kids at Lemarket hlídárna and cooking. La Degustation 15 serves stunning modern Czech dishes, just like have cocktails at the nearby Bonvivant’s 37 . Field 16 which is a bit more glitzy. Sansho 19 and QQ Asian Kitchen 14 are low key and fun, which eases the pressure. And Milada 20 is out of FOOD EXPERIENCES the way and intimate, yet cool in its own, peculiar way. And the rest is up The multi-course Dinner from the Bone served at Kantýna 1 at 7pm is incredi- to you. ble value and a lifetime experience for all carnivores. Leave your picky self at the door. Camp Fuego is your chance to enjoy or even cook some great food on fire BURGERS in wild nature. Both need to be booked ahead. Crave solitude? Just go pick mush- While the Dish used to serve our favorite burgers, we’ve recently abandoned rooms in Kunratický les at the Roztyly subway stop. Nothing is more Czech. the gourmet versions and just went back to the dirty roots. There are now only two contenders in that category: the dry-aged beef burgers at Naše maso 5 FOOD SOUVENIR SHOPPING are worth the wait, and Mr Hot Dog’s 2 beef sliders are worth the shame. Buy the best Czech booze (Žufánek!!!) from Bartida (Havelská 25). Great Ajala chocolate are sold at onesip coffee 39. Naše maso 5 sell’s Lokal’s amazing mus- PIZZA tard. The Real Meat Society sells delicious flavoured pork lards. Beer and wine? San Carlo may look like a money laundering scheme but makes the best Any of the wine bars or beer places listed here. And any supermarket for Czech pizza in town. Have nothing else from the menu though. And Pizza Nuova sweets: Tatiana, Horalka, Míša, Pedro chewing gum or Antiperle mints.
66 BEST OF‘S BEST OF‘S 67 NA PEKÁRNĚ SAPA MARKET Kojetická 36, Čakovičky Libušská 319/126, P4 We-Sa(Su) 11-22(18) Mo-Su 8-18
There’s a fine line between Nope, it’s not beautiful. And hospitable service... and getting there takes forever. But a hostage situation. Chef Frič the Sapa Vietnamese market
is yet to find it. He will feed sapamapa.cz is as close you get to Vietnam napekarne.com you food and booze, and you’ll without a passport. The bistros like it. Order Czech cuisine’s are dodgy but authentic and Holy Trinity: paté for starter, delicious, and Asian produce svíčková or boar with rosehip is aplenty. Like Blade Runner... sauce for main, and povidlové without all the rain. taštičky for dessert.
TIP: For tips on what to eat and where to eat it, have a look at our blog. For a tour, TIP: If you want to stay within the city, contact the great Marcela Vuong. Kastrol, Na Pekárně’s sister restaurant, OFF will do. THE MAP BRNO ÚNĚTICKÝ Brno, Czech Republic PIVOVAR Rýznerova 19, Únětice, Yeah, we know. It takes about Mo-Th(Fr,Sa) 11-22(23), Su 11-21 two hours to get to Brno, the capital of Moravia. And we’re A train trip and a 2-mile walk Taste of Prague. But still, if to Únětice brewery ticks all you’re taking the train to Vien- the boxes: see a proper village, na or Budapest, get off, leave taste great beer loved by the your luggage at the station, locals, and get the noon tour and give Brno a try for a few of the resurrected brewery
hours. You’ll love it. www.unetickypivovar.cz during weekends. A great trip for the entire family. Combine TIP: Vila Tugendhat, Industra Coffee, with a stop at U Kasíků, a pop- Monogram Coffee, Café Mitte, Pavillon, Atelier, Bar, který neexistuje, Super Panda ular place for kolache. Circus and Na stojáka are all good TIP: Trains are for sissies. Get a bike ride enough reasons to visit, with the Moravi- to Únětice with our friend Filippo of BIKO an wine country just miles away. Adventures tours. That glass of cold lager never tasted better!
OFF THE MAP 69 LETNÁ VINOHRADY Letná, nestled between two Vinohrady is green, beautiful big parks, has seen a big boom and opulent. Leafy streets, Art between the wars, as witnessed Deco houses, parks and vistas. by the ever-present constructiv- This is the good life accord- ist architecture. It has a young, ing to the Czechs. Which also artsy and a slightly bohemian means great food. Burgers? Pho? feel, especially the upper parts Italian? Craft beers? Farmers near the Stromovka park. market? Vinohrady has it all. Also visit: National Technical Museum, Also visit: Husův sbor, Church of the Most National Gallery, Academy of Fine Arts, Sacred Heart of Our Lord, Pavilon, Mezi Bar Cobra, Bistro 8, Ye’s Kafe/Studio, srnky, Le Caveau, Martinez bar. Cukrárna Alchymista, Brut & oysters.
HOLEŠOVICE ŽIŽKOV An old industrial district in the The “Republic of Žižkov” has river bend, Holešovice is now retained its working-class, edgy in the first stages of gentri- character up until today, and its fication with great potential locals are proud of its shabby PRAGUE for the future and a creative dive bars. But the “Montmartre buzz. Visit the Dox III and the of Prague“ also has a cool side DISTRICTS Holešovice market 60 , one of with young designers, pub food the oddest places in Prague. and a hip, bohemian feel. Also visit: Megapixel store, Libeňský Also visit: U slovanské lípy, Parukářka ostrov garden colony, M Factory, Barry park, Hunt Kastner gallery, Aero cinema, Higgel’s coffehouse, Paralelní polis, Cà The Tavern, U Kurelů, Malkovich bar, phê. Pivo a párek, Peter’s apartment.
KARLÍN VRŠOVICE Formerly the only bad district A neighborly, leafy sloped dis- in town, the post-2002 floods trict in the shade of the rich- gentrification has turned the er and more ostentatious grid-layout Karlin into the Wil- Vinohrady has much to offer: liamsburg of Prague. It may not the Grébovka vineyards X , have many sights, but it‘s real the hipster Krymská st., parks, and it‘s a place where things good coffee, villas and vistas, are happening right now. and empty streets with great Also visit: Lyčkovo náměstí sq., Inva- architecture. lidovna panel housing estate, Polévkár- Also visit: St. Wenceslas church, Boho Vin- na, Parlor, Warehouse no. 1, Bobiny tage, Baobab bookstore, Osteria da Clara, For detailed district guides, visit: bitly.com/prague-districts vintage shop. Moravské koláčky Doležal, Tvoje máma.
PRAGUE DICTRICTS 71 8 NEIGHBORHOOD WALK - LETNÁ 3 VLTAVSKÁ 7 5 Letná is arguably the best place to live in Prague. It deserves one 6 afternoon worth of exploration. Approach it from Revoluční st, across 4 the Štefánikův most bridge. 2 9 LETNÁ 1 1 Expo 58 - Yes, even Communism had a Mid-Century Modern phase, and this is its pinnacle. Like a secret lair from North by Northwest.
2 Prague 7 District Council - Just to get a ride in the paternoster 10 elevator. To see human misery, go to Tax Authority on 4th floor. VLTAVA (Closed on weekends.)
3 National Gallery. The “Trade Palace” was built in 1928. ‘Nuff said. Incredible place and modern art. Breath out in Café 1 over humongous tea.
4 Veverkova street 76 : A microcosm of Letná’s cool: snacks at Bistro 8, kicks and vinyls at Garage, books at Page Five, some fashion too. 8 Stromovka. The biggest park in Prague. Great stuff above it: the Academy of Fine Arts, Lokál 3 for beers, Milada 20 for a nice 5 Bio Oko XIII : 1930s Bauhaus cinema with a cool bar that serves meal, Alchymista for coffee and cake in the beautiful garden. craft beers and natural wines. Our tip? Lemonade to go (no sugar for us) on a hot day. 9 National Technical Museum. Testament to the skill and determi- nation of the First Republic. Awesome place. National Agricultur- 6 Mr Hot Dog 2 . Follow our regular path: Beef sliders, hot dogs, al Museum next door worth a visit, too. cheese frieds, onion rings, shame, regret. 10 Letná park. Beers in the Letná beer garden 27 or at Stal Inn VI a 7 Erhart Café 55 . Our post-Mr Hot Dog ritual along the Milady for ultimate views and vibes. In case of rain, head over to Bar Horákové street: pastries at Erhart Café, espresso or two at Cobra to hang out with the local cool kids. b Sólista 49 .
72 NEIGBORHOOD WALK – LETNÁ NEIGBORHOOD WALK – LETNÁ 73 COOL SPOTS I NEW WORLD AND DEER MOAT VII VYŠEHRAD FORTRESS Light years away from the mass tourism around the Prague A park, church, monastery and cemetery of famous Czechs in Castle nearby, the New World has the feel of a small village that a fortress overlooking the river is one of the oldest, and the transcends into a lush valley underneath the main attractions. most romantic, places is Prague. Start or finish your day here. Have coffee at the Nový svět cafe and enjoy the sights from a different angle. VIII CAMP PRAHA While the Czechs have just learnt to discuss public space, II STRAHOV STADIUM architecture and urban planning, they now have a cool centre The biggest stadium in the world and the testament to the for it. Seated in a stunning 1973 building by Mr Prager in the prosperity of the First Republic, later misused for Communist Emmaus Monastery, this is a must for architecture nerds. propaganda purposes (just google “Spartakiáda”), is a majestic ruin that still radiates self-confidence and power. IX NÁPLAVKA Recently revitalised, the Prague’s riverside walk has become III DOX a place where younger people congregate to eat and drink, have The best place in Prague for modern arts, the fantastic Dox by fun or just chill out. Just beware of the joggers and cyclists! Qubus design shop, and the perfect reason to visit the Holešov- ice district and explore its surroundings. Family-friendly. X GRÉBOVKA The most beautiful vineyard in Prague, and a place where every IV ST. AGNES CONVENT day feels like a Sunday. Yeah, the wines are nothing to write home The most underrated sight in Prague is also one of the oldest about but that’s beside the point: take a sip, breath in, relax. and most beautiful. Now the home of National Gallery’s Medie- val Arts collection, the Convent is a quiet place for contempla- XI MEETFACTORY tion far from the madding crowds. “This is the part we’re gonna get raped,” said our friends when getting off the tram to see Meetfactory. No, you won’t. Although V NATIONAL MEMORIAL AT located in shabby surroundings, Meetfactory, a place for par- THE VITKOV HILL ties, cinema, galleries, artist’s residencies, concerts and more, The best view of Prague from the top of a monumental WWI-me- is worth a visit. morial-turned-Communist-mausoleum with Europe’s biggest equestrian statue. The marble palace will explain many things XII PATERNOSTER ELEVATORS about 20th Century Czechoslovakia. The best ride this side of the Disney World, and without the lines: the walk-in-walk-out elevators are due for extinction soon, so try VI STAL INN them out while they last. Our favorites? U Nováků house, the City It’s difficult to get a “beach feel” in a landlocked country, but Council, and the YMCA building if you want to start slow. a night spent underneath the Metronome in the Letná park is as good as it gets. Great views of the town, good vibes, young crowds, XIII BIO OKO DJs, beers and summer breeze. What more would you want? Tired? Rainy day? The answer: a movie in the 1930s Bio Oko cinema. Hip bar with funky wines is an added bonus.
76 COOL SPOTS COOL SPOTS 77 48 HOURS 3PM Late lunch in the Dlouhá street foodie hub: chlebíčeks at IN PRAGUE Sisters 4 or the daily special at Naše maso 5 . The first will satisfy vegetarians and gluten-free diets, the latter caters to Just two days? Shouldn’t it be at least three? carnivores. For a full-on pub lunch with fresh Pilsners, Lokál 3 But okay, here we go: is the way to go. 4PM Day One - Checking off the sights Have coffee at onesip coffee 39 . Cosy and small and run by the smart way, avoiding the crowds the two nicest baristas in town. Continue on to St Agnes Con- vent IV , the National Gallery’s collection of Medieval Arts that is below the radar.
6:30AM 5PM Charles Bridge, empty. Take advantage of that jet lag! Just you, Have a stroll through the Jewish Quarter for some serious the views… and Korean wedding photoshoots. (Not joking.) window-shopping in the Pařížská street. Buy a fragrance at Ingredients 72 and something nice to wear at La Gallery 9:00AM Novesta 64 . Café Savoy 51 . Breakfast and pastries! (Have coffee at Café c Lounge 17 nearby.) Ice-cream at Angelato 56 optional in the 6PM summer. Take the funicular to the Petřín tower. See the Stra- Now it’s time to dine. La Degustation 15 and Field 16 are hov stadium II if time allows. Walk to the Strahov Monastery both worth the splurge: beautiful but casual and serving mod- for views, beers. ern Czech cuisine. The former is set prix fixe menu only, the latter is a la carte, too. 12PM New World I . Great for some alone time and decent cuppa. 9PM No need to see the super-crowded Castle now. Instead, con- Prague Castle. Walk past the Old Town sq. and cross the river. tinue to the Royal Gardens (or the Deer Moat in the summer) Take the 22 tram up to Pražský hrad stop. Walk the beautifully and walk into the Letná park. lit courtyards in perfect solitude.
1:30PM 10:30PM Metronome IV . Great views of Prague… and skateboarding. You deserve a drink. Walk down to the Lesser Town and cross Continue to the Letná beer garden 27 , have a peek at the the Charles Bridge for cocktails at Hemingway Bar 35 . National Technical Museum (awesome, btw) and cross the For further alcoholic adventures, try Czech natural wines at bridge. Turn right on the first street lights. Bokovka 28 or cocktails at L’Fleur 33 .
78 48 HOURS IN PRAGUE 79 48 HOURS
IN PRAGUE 2PM The National Memorial at the Vítkov hill V , the proudest Day Two: The local side of things Czech monument, offers the best view of Prague. Enjoy the views of the Žižkov district, aka Prague’s Montmartre. That’s where you’re going next.
4PM TV Tower. Don’t eat in the restaurant up there. Explore the cool surroundings instead: check the backpacks by Playbag 8AM h b The Vyšehrad fortress VII is all about great views in solitude. 77 and kicks by Botas 66 69 , the nearby Jiřák farmers mar- What more would you want? Walk down to the river to enjoy ket 58 or beer at Prague’s biggest beer garden in the Riegrovy the Náplavka farmers market 57 on Saturday. Take the 3 or sady park 27 with a great view of the city nearby. 24 tram to the Václavské náměstí stop. 6PM 9:30AM Vinohrady. The upscale Vinohrady with its Art Deco houses is Breakfast time! Myšák 52 , a reborn institution, serves break- a joy to walk through, as the traffic increases towards the cen- fast, pastries and coffee all day. Get all of the above. Walk tre. Our favourite stops? The Pavillon shop, burgers at Dish, past the Wenceslas Sq. Check out the Main Post Office in pho at Pho Vietnam or snack at Momoichi 48 . Continue down Jindřišská st. into the city along the Vinohradská st.
11AM 7PM Coffee break at EMA Espresso Bar 40 . Get a plum jam New Town. The more local part of the centre offers many dis- buchta if they have it. Walk into the Karlín district along the tractions and activities but if you’re hungry, there’s no place Sokolovská street. Sandwich at Grils 13 optional. Check out like Kantýna 1 . Nothing like Czech beer and meat after the interiors of the Church at Karlínské náměstí sq. Grab a day of walking! some filter coffee at Můj šálek kávy 41 to go. 9PM 12PM Movie and drinks. Seeing a movie in the Světozor movie the- Sure, you’ve just had breakfast, but lunches at Eska 18 can atre is our favourite past time. Great movies (mostly subtitled) be pretty light. Our tip? The potatoes in ash and the žemlovka in the coolest independent cinema in the centre. After it’s for dessert. Don’t eat too much bread - it’s time to walk up the done, drinks at Parlour 34 are a must. Walk to the river for Vítkov hill V . Take the pedestrian tunnel from Křižíkova and some last views. Yup, you’ve only scratched the surface and then make a U-turn into the park. Walk all the way up. will have to come back.
80 48 HOURS IN PRAGUE 81 10. Visit the morning mass at the St Vitus Cathedral at 6:30am (8:30am on Su). No people in the WHAT TO DO Castle. (Or the Cathedral, for that matter.)
IN PRAGUE 11. See a Sparta-Slavia football match. (Look online for dates.)
Done all the sights? Now what? 12. (summer) Rent a paddle boat by the Bridge of the Here’s a few suggestions for that truly local feeling. Legions. Super cheesy but correct.
13. (winter) Get some ice-skating action going at night at the Na Františku ring.
1. Walk the courtyards of the Prague Castle. At 9pm. 14. Watch a sports match at the Riegrovy sady beer garden 27 . Take a beer to the park slope that 2. See a movie in one of Prague’s classic cinemas: overlooks the historical centre. Have a seat, sip Bio Oko XIII , Bio Aero or Kino Světozor. away and enjoy.
3. Take a picture of the city from the top of the 15. Get the Bánh cuon at Phong Phong in the Sapa Vítkov National Memorial V . market. Buy a plush toy as you walk out.
4. Visit the Main Post Office in Jindrisska st. Take 16. Buy tickets and crash a high school prom at the a selfie with the guard who’s in charge of making Lucerna hall (mid Jan through end of Feb). sure nobody takes pictures. 17. Drink a beer at a pub’s window sill (anywhere) or 5. Find your very own perfume at Ingredients 72 . on a beach chair in a park (at Lokal Hamburk 3 ). Just not Zuzi’s one. Stay away. She’ll smell you down. 18. Drink 8 or 9 beers, the average number Czechs 6. Ride a paternoster elevator in the YMCA XII have in one night, in a Žižkov dive bar. building. 19. Walk the stands of the Strahov stadium II . Have 7. Have a morning run in the Letná and Stromovka a view of the southern parts of Prague’s left bank. parks. 20. Get a cup of coffee at the Nový svět cafe and walk 8. Steal a beer mug from a classic Pilsner pub. to the centre through the Deer Moat I (closed You didn’t hear this from us. in the winter).
9. Get drunk and then beg for smoked pork 21. Get run over by a tram playing Pokémon Go. cracklings at Naše Maso 5 . (Okay, maybe not this one.)
82 WHAT TO DO IN PRAGUE 83 ENTERTAINMENT ONE-DAY TRIPS LIVE MUSIC CLUBBING KUTNÁ HORA OLOMOUC Jazz Dock is probably the best Start at Roxy in Dlouhá, and Most famous for the Sedlec Just over two hours away by jazz club in town, on a boat continue to M1 Lounge and Ossuary, a macabre chapel that train, Olomouc, a Medieval uni- in a water lock. Jazz Republic James Dean for a mixture holds the bones of som 40 to 70 versity town, has a plethora of draws younger crowds. Reduta of locals and tourists. Need thousand victims of the Black beautiful corners and religious is the conservative classic, more local flavors? Check out Death, this Medieval silver min- buildings, a fairly bizarre astro- while AghArta features the best Mecca, SaSaZu or RadostFX. ing town is worth the one-hour nomical clock, and arguably the players of the contemporary lo- For a truly local feel, head over train ride. Make sure you pop best restaurant in the country, cal jazz scene. For rock and all to Meetfactory for something into the GASK gallery on your Entrée. the other genres in a beautiful, cool. Lucka’s secret tip? Under- way to St Barbara’s Cathedral. if bizzare, theatre, have a look dogs’ in the Smichov area for at Akropolis. Need proof that deep immersion into Prague’s punk is not dead? The legend- underground. Just avoid Karlo- BOHEMIAN MORAVIAN WINE ary 007 Strahov is your place. vy lazne if you’re over 25 or still SWITZERLAND COUNTRY have some dignity in you. Top destination for a long hike Moravian wines are nice in and landscape photography, Prague, but they shine when GALLERIES CLASSICAL MUSIC this natural park with sand- drunk with their authors, small Dox III in Holešovice is your The difference between the stone arches and castles is winemakers who let you enter best place for contemporary National Theatre, State Opera just over one hour’s drive from their households. Start at Son- arts, followed by the Trade Pal- and the Estates Theatre? Prague, and definitely worth berk and continue to Mikulov. ace. For photos, have a look at Just the venue – they’re all it for people hoping to see On the way back, stop at Velké the Leica Gallery or Foto Škoda. run by the National Theatre’s a bit of natural beauty while in Bílovice – sklepy and drive up to Have money to spend and want company. For the best classical Chechia. Svatý kopeček. the best of the best? Look at music, have a look at the Czech DSC Gallery. For more inde- Philharmonic. Just book ahead pendent, younger artists, try at or pray for the last empty seats. The Chemistry Gallery, Hunt We’d avoid any concert that Kastner or Futura. And then starts with “Best of…” While there’s Meetfactory, a place they are musicians in the that can rank high in just about churches are professionals, any category. but they’ve played the Four Seasons ten times this week already. By Wednesday.
84 ONE-DAY TRIPS, MUSIC EXPLORING OUTER PRAGUE 85 Religion (CzR): PRAGUE, AND 44% atheist, 45% agnostic, 10% Catholic, 1% Protestant. THE CZECH REPUBLIC, (Yup. Not a typo.) Regular mushroom-pickers (CzR): IN A NUTSHELL. over 70% of population. University graduates: (Mushroom-picking. The real religion.) 23.6% (CzR: 12.5%) You should know what you’re visiting.
Drinking, driving, Maternity leave (CzR): PRACTICING DOCTORS PER voting age (CzR): 3 years 1000 (CzR): 18 years (28 weeks maternity, the rest parental leave.)
+ CZ: 3.3 Homicides per year: 22 Average annual pension (And most of them (CzR): 1.27 million inhabitants in Prague 7.5 million tourists in Prague per year domestic. You’re safer on CZK 142,200 ($ 6,425) UK: 2.8 (Czech Republic 10.5 million. Yup. Small.) (Skip the main sights during the day.) the street than at home.)
Average annual income: Unemployment rate: Healthcare system (CzR): ER wait time*: USA: 2.6 CZK 470,000 (21,250). 2% (CzR: 2.4%) Socialized. Insurance Life-threatening cases (Yup. There’s work payments derived from immediate, Urgent < 10 min, Tax Freedom Day: 23 June to be done.) income. Non-urgent < 30–180 min (Pretty late, but it could be worse.)
Average real estate price per 1m²: So there you have it. Prague (and the Czech Republic) is safe, CZK 82,500 ($ 3725) atheist, egalitarian, pretty socialist. Incomes are fairly low, but so
Average rent per 1m²: are the costs of living. Czechs love to complain, but it ain’t so bad. CZK 346 ($ 15.5) (Cheap. Yes, you could move here.)
Disposable income Annual all-access All of the above is for Prague, or the Czech equality ranking: public transport pass: Republic in general (CzR). 1$ — 25 CZK. 3rd in OECD countries CZK 3,650 ($ 165) (UK: 20th, US: 22nd) (Cry your heart out, London.) *UVN hospital in Prague
86 STATISTICS STATISTICS 87 THANKS!
Thank you for buying this guide! We hope you enjoyed Prague to the fullest. Come back soon!
We also want to thank Lucka, Iva, Tomáš, Jarda, Evan, Míša, Miloš, Martin, Zuzka, and all our friends who are willing to eat their faces off with us and watch patiently as their food is getting cold while we take pictures. You make our world a better place. Taste of Prague. Not your daddy’s Prague guide. (Version 2.5) Last but not least, our thanks Written by Taste of Prague go to all the great coffee shops, (Zuzi and Jan to you and all our friends). Designed by Studio Kosatko (studiokosatko.cz). restaurants, bars and bistros in Photos by Everbay Photography (everbay.co). Prague who ruin our diet plans on Printed by Fronte (fronte.cz). Made with pride in the Czech Republic. a regular basis. Seriously, thank you very much. Sigh. ISBN 978-80-270-0952-7
© 2018 Delicious Thoughts s.r.o. Zuzi, Jan, Karolína, Anna, Prague, Czech Republic.
Markéta and Martin Visit us on www.tasteofprague.com.