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MOSCOW SEPTEMBER 2009 www.passportmagazine.ru The State of Russian TV Professor William Brumfi eld Zamoskvorechye Post-Perestroika Warrior – Geoff rey Cox Withdraws Contents 4 What’s On in September 6 September Holidays 7 Previews 12 Art History 12 Yevgeny Oks 14 Culture Russian Hospitality Children’s TV The Present State of Russian TV 20 History Remembering the Holocaust 20 24 Travel Art Courses in Edinburgh 26 Viewpoint Anth Ginn in Russia 28 Restaurant Review Barashka Friends Forever 28 32 Wine Tasting Crisis Wine Buying 34 Interview Professor William Craft Brumfield – Architectural Historian Extraordinaire 36 Book review History of Russian Architecture, Professor W. Brumfield 34 37 Out&About Expat Football League Summer Tournament 38 Real Estate Zamoskvorechye 42 Columns Alexander Ziminsky, Penny Lane Realty: To Buy or Not To Buy Sherman Pereira, Crown Relocations: 38 Transporting Fine Art 44 Community Football: The Moscow Bhoys 46 Last Word Geoffrey Cox OBE 48 Viewpoint Michael Romanov 44 September 2009 3 Letter from the Publisher Soviet Jews are arguably one of the longest suffering races of modern history. We all know that Jews were repressed by the Soviets, however it is a little known fact that the Nazis efficiently and ruthlessly eliminated a large number of Jews from Soviet territory they occupied. Phil Baillie investigates. Geoffrey Cox OBE is somebody who many of us know. He is returning to England, al- though he will be visiting from time to time on business. His departure marks something of an end of an era of expat life here in Russia, as the original post-perestroika settlers gradually move on. In this month’s ‘Last Word’, Geoffrey outlines some of the good and bad times in his career here. Anth Ginn, a writer from England visited me for two weeks in August. This is the second time he has visited Russia, the first when he was cold-shouldered as a tourist not know- ing anybody here; and the second when he came as a guest. His perceptions of Russia during these two visits couldn’t have been more different, something that points out just how easy it is to misinterpret this country. Anth tells his story on page 26: Don’t Listen to Dead Fish. John Ortega On the subject of visiting Russians, deputy editor Elena Krivovyaz writes on how to be- Owner and Publisher have yourself when visiting Russians socially. For example: never refuse food and drinks, and take the sign of the desert being put on the table as a subtle hint that you should leave soon, as no Russian will ever tell you that it is time to go. Whenever one reads a decent book about Russia, the name of Professor William Brum- field; the world’s expert on Russian architecture, comes up. But who is Professor William Brumfield? Does he actually exist? He does, and for this issue, Passport interviewed him and reviewed his classic work: A History of Russian Architecture. These are just some of the articles in this month’s issue. I hope you enjoy it. Portait of Geffrey Cox on cover by John Harrison Owner and Publisher Arts Editor Contributors John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Alevtina Kalinina Charles Borden, Ross Hunter, Elena Rubinova, [email protected] [email protected] Olga Slobodkina-von Brømmsen, Nick Rees, Editor Designer Maria Savelieva, Alina Ganenko, Adrian Carnegie, John Harrison Julia Nozdracheva Ian Mitchell, Vladimir Kozlov, Marina Lukanina, Anth Ginn, [email protected] [email protected] Frank Ebbecke, Alexander Ziminsky Yuri Pushkin, Sherman Pereira, Deputy Editor Webmaster Phil Baillie, Peter Ellis, Elena Krivovyaz Alexey Timokhin [email protected] [email protected] Sales Manager Accounting and Legal Services Valeria Astakhova Vista Foreign Business Support [email protected] Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. Passport occasionally uses material we believe has been 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible Office 013, 1st floor 77-18639. 08.10.04 to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim 109316 Moscow, Russia Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat ownership of something we have published, we will be 93 Ulitsa Mira , 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia pleased to make a proper acknowledgment. Tel. +7 (495) 640 0508 Fax +7 (495) 620-0888 www.passportmagazine.ru 4 September 2009 What’s On In September Tuesday, 1st a long-lasting silence in 2008 with a concert features the Gregorian Quartet slightly retooled sound – including the comprising 3rd/4th-year students of National Russian Show presence of electric guitar, musical saw, the Moscow Conservatoire. For more (dance) and synthesizer – for the band’s third information, contact the chaplaincy’s The show is an aesthetic journey into album, Perfect Symmetry. concert master, Nikolai Grigorian, by Russia’s deep history. The program B1 Maximum, 21:00 phone: 772-5842. includes a varied mix of traditional St. Andrew’s Anglican Church, 19:30 national dance and contemporary bal- let. The troupe consists of more than 50 artists with 300 unique costumes Friday, 4th decorated with pearls, silver and gold Tricky (trip hop) all created and hand-embroidered Knowle West Boy is the title of the especially for the show. eighth Tricky’s album released in 2008. th Kosmos Hotel Concert Hall, 19:30, also 7 , The “Council Estate” track is the first th th 8 , 10 that features Tricky on vocals. The album has received rave reviews and is highly recommended by music lovers, many of whom say it’s his best work since Maxinquaye. Dolphins’ Show This is a must-see event and an amaz- Green Theater, 20:00 ing show for all children and even the parents. Buying one adult ticket allows you to bring in a child under 6 years. Moscow Dolphin Marine Park, 12:00, 16:00, also 3rd -6th, 9th -13th, 16th-20th, 23rd- 27th Summer Ballet Festival presents: Snow Maiden Every year the Summer Ballet Festival in Moscow brings together different classic and modern ballet ensembles. All the performances take place at Natalia Satz Moscow State Academic Music Theater. The Snow Maiden is a ballet masterpiece based on the opera in four acts with a prologue by Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, composed in 1880-1881. The Russian libretto, by the Moscow Yacht Show 2009 th composer, is based on the like-named Probably the biggest Russian event Saturday, 5 play by Alexandr Ostrovsky which pre- dedicated to yachts and luxury life Etepetete (club party) miered in 1873 with incidental music by attributes. There will be a lively music Etepetete is an Austrian DJ/VJ col- Tchaikovsky. line-up, a yacht brands exhibition and lective, consisting of 3 girls living in contests for yacht-owners. Natalia Sats Moscow State Academic Vienna, Graz and all over the world. Music Theater, 19:00 Royal Yacht Club, 20:00, also 4th and 5th, The band was founded in 2007 at the 11.00 Springseven Festival. Etepetete cross the boarders, bridge gaps, deconstruct then reconstruct and still manage to look sharp. They have played at many clubs and festivals and their personal highlights include a tour in Switzerland, the Springfestival in Graz and the C/O Pop festival in Cologne, They continue to play electroclash, minimal, funk, new rave and the hottest new hits. Sixteen Tons, 00:00 Thursday, 3rd Keane (rock) Keane’s uplifting, piano-driven pop/ rock is created by vocalist Tom Chaplin, drummer Richard Hughes and pianist Tim Rice-Oxley – three childhood Organ Music Concert friends from the small town of Battle in Every Thursday St. Andrew’s hosts a East Sussex, England. Formed in 1997, concert of classical music with profes- Keane initially started out as a college- sional musicians participating. This aged cover band. Keane returned after 6 September 2009 What’s On In September International Women’s Club Nina Gvamichava (harp) and Marianna debuted just a year ago, but she has Vysotskaya (organ) perform Handel, already been nominated as “The Rock presents: Saturday Coffee Mozart, Soler, Blanco, Pachelbel. Discovery Of The Year”. This might be Morning Roman Catholic Cathedral of Immaculate interesting for those who are interested Le Pain Quotidien, 10:00 Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, in the Russian rock scene. 19:30 Ikra, 21:00 Podmoskovye Classic Rally This event, which unites retro car lovers International Women’s Club and road racers will take place for the fifth presents: Newcomers’ Coffee time. More than 70 participants will take a Le Pain Quotidien, 10:00 ride through the Moscow region in their old-timers and then come back to join the ceremony of rewarding the winners. Friday, 11th Place and time to be confirmed Macy Gray (concert) Macy Gray is an American R&B and soul singer-songwriter, record producer, th and actress, famed for her distinctive Sunday, 20 raspy voice (it has been described as De La Soul (hip-hop band) if someone who has just eaten 150 De La Soul is an American hip hop saltine crackers and is on the verge of group formed in 1987 in Long Island, death) and a singing style heavily influ- New York. They are best known for enced by Billie Holiday and Betty Davis. their eclectic sampling, quirky lyrics, B1 Maximum, 21:00 and their contributions to the evolu- tion of jazz rap and alternative hip hop subgenres. B1 Maximum, 21:00 Tuesday, 8th RBCC presents: Banking Dispute Resolution Seminar with Baker and McKenzie (business meeting) Marriott Courtyard, time to be confirmed Christmas Time/100 Days to New Year (exhibition) In spite of the crisis, 100 producers of Christmas accessories will gather in Thursday, 24th one hall and demonstrate the achieve- RBCC presents: Moscow ments of the industry.
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