LIST OF SPECIMENS OF AND FABRICS IN THE REF- ERENCE SERIES OF THE SECTION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRIES OF THE U. S. NATIONAL MUSEUM, JUNE 30, 1886,

By Eomyn Hitchcock.

Missouri. 7555. 7011. Abutilon avicenncc, | AnlherccemyliUa (cocoons), Tusscr 7008. Abutilon Bedfordianum, Australia. , . 7009. Abutilon mollis, Australia. 7025. Apocynum sp. (), Minnesota. 7010. Abutilon oxycarpum, Australia. 7024. Apocynum sp. (rope), Utah. 7112. Acer cratoegifolium, Urina no 7078. Arum peniculaceum. kawa. 7001. Asclepias (fiber), United States. 6881. Acrocomia sclcrocarpa, Coco de ca- 7003. Asclepias (fiber), Cipo lactecente, tarrho, Brazil. Brazil. 6998. Adam's Needle, Yucca aloifolia, 7338. Asclepias (fiber) milkweed, Iowa. Australia. 6999. Asclepias (down), Tripoli. 7027. African . 6560. Asclepias (down), vegetable silk, 15333. Agave sp. Costa Rica Indians, Dis- India. trict of Talamanca. 7000. Asclepias (stalk and fiber), United 5327. States. > Agave Americana. 7842. 7002. Asclepias and (fabric). 6970. Agave Americana, Nicaragua. 7487. Asclepias cornuli, New .

21070. Agave dcserti, Southern California. 6875. ) Astrocaryum vulgarc, tucum, Bra-

5335. 6873. 5 zil. > Agave Jceratto, Jamaica. 7977. 7565. Bagasse, cane, New Or-

7940. Agave lechuguill a, Mexico. leans. 7115. Aiso, Urtica Thunbergiana. 7015, ? Banana, Musa sapientum. 7016. ' Algodon sylvestris (down), Yng- 7456. han, Argentine Republic. 5341. > Banana, Musa sapientum, Jamaica. ' Aloe, American. {See Agave.) 7974. 7154. . 7337. Banana and silk (fabric). 7502. Ampelodesma tenax, Diss, Genoa. 5021. Bark, used for cords, Pai Ute In- 7022. Ananassa saliva, pineapple. dians. 5133. Ananassa saliva, pineapple, , 5001. Bark used for ropes, San Domingo.

5338. i Ananassa saliva, pineapple, Ja- 5188. Bctula Bhojpattra (bark), East In- dies. 7972. l maica. 7819. 7082. f , Argentine Repub- 7820. 7083. lie Boalimeria nivea, China grass. 7821. S 7084. f 75(50. Angora wool (fabric), Kentucky. 7116. 7330. Angora wool, Maryland. 7630. 5315. Anono Colorado (bark), San Fran- 7131. Bcclimeria nivea, France. cisco. 7632. 649 '

650 rp:port on national

7979 Beehmeria nivea, Jamaica. 23350. Cedar bark (dressed), Neah Bay, 7081 Beehmeria nivea, Mexico. Washington Territory. 7080 Beehmeria nivea, Mississippi. 88732. Cedar root splints, Massett In- 7093.7093 British ) dians, Columbia. > Beehmeria nivea, Philadelphia. 709,7ftqr 7589. Chain drops excelsa, China. 7039 Beehmeria nivea (fabrics), France. 6869. Chorisia speciosa, paina branca, 7096 Beehmeria nivea with wool, col- Brazil. grass. ton, etc. (fabrics). China (See Beehmeria ) 7990. Bombax cciba (bark), llor ceiba, 7269. Cibotium sp., puln, Sandwich Isl- Venezuela. ands. 5263. TJowt&ttx oci&a,i>ochote,Guatemala. 7988. Cibucaia de buchivacoa, Venezu- ela. 0864. Bombax globosa, paina cle coco, Brazil. 7616. Cipo. (See Sipo.) 7457. Bombax pendandrum, pohate, Yu- 7003. Cipo lactccentc, Asclepias, Brazil. catan. 7978. Cladiam occidentale, rush or flag 7007. Bottle tree, Stcrculia rupestris, grass, Jamaica. Australia. 6831. Coco dc catarrho, Acrocomia scle- 7976. Bowstring hemp, Sanseviera zey- rocarpa, Brazil. 7570. lantca, Jamaica. Cocoa-nut, Cocos nucifera. 5337 Bowstring hemp, African, Sanse- 7570. Cocos nucifera, cocoa-nut. 7570. . (See Cocoa-nut.) 7970 viera guineensis, Jamaica. 7138. Corchorus sp., 5015. Bromclia sp., District of Canara. , France. 7120. 7020. Bromelia sp., Southern Florida. 7121. 5340. Bromelia Icaratas, silk grass, Ja- Corchorus sp., jnte, Louisiana. 7128. maica. 6976. 5339. Bromelia pinguin, pingnin, Ja- 7122. Corchorus sp., jnte, Virginia. 7975. maica. 7488. Corchorus sp., prepared jnte and 7625. Bulrush, great, Sciipus valid us, paper pulp, Now Jersey. Arizona. 7111. Corchorus capsularis. 7980. Burn-nose bark, Daphnopsis tini- 7034. Corchorus capsularis, jute, Asia. folia, Jamaica. 7136. Corchorus capsularis, jute, Mary- 7579. Cactus fiber, Argentine Republic. land. 7824. 7037. Corchorus capsularis, jute, New 7825. Calf hair, Germany Orleans. 7826. 7827. 7039. Corchorus capsularis, jute, South- western United States. 7156. 's hair 7030. Corchorus olitorius, Australia. 8053. Camel's hair, Russia. 7131. Cordia jerascanthus. 7567. Canna plant, New Orleans. 7497. Cordia grandis (bark), Cuddapah. 7285. Cannabis sativa, hemp, Argentine 7263. Cordyline indivisa, tall palm lily, Republic. Australia. 5325. Cannabis sativa (seed), hemp, Per- 7288. Cordyline pumilio, dwarf palm sia. lily, . 7290. Cannabis sativa, hemp, Portugal. 7588. Corn fiber (paper), Austria. 7291. Cannabis sativa, hemp, second 7408. class, Portugal. 7409. 7292. Cannabis sativa, hemp, third 7410. class, Portugal. 7590. 5036. Cannabis sativa, hemp, Spain. 7402. Cotton bolls. 7981. Carludovica plumicri, low pal- 7542. Cotton, Hiwaiian Islands. metto, Jamaica. 7552. Cotton, San Paulo. 7499. Caryota urens, kittool, Ceylon. 6899. Cotton, Madagascar. 7813,. , Alabama. 7960. Cotton, Mexico. 7407. Cashmere wool, California. 7533. Cotton tree. 5345. Ceeropia peltata (bark), tm in pet- ')7490. Cotton, yellow, China. tree, Jamaica. 7002. Cotton and asclepias (fabric). TEXTILE FIBERS' AND FABRICS. 651

7642. Cotton cloth (red), Malta. 7332. , wool, and cotton (fabric). 7332. Cotton, llax, and wool (fabric). 7906. Flax fabric (ancient). 7312. Cotton, wool, and (fabric). 7990. Flor ceiba (bark) Bombax ceiba, 7568. Cotton stalk (bark and fiber). Venezuela. 7564. Cotton stalk (fiber), New Orleans. 7971. Furercea Cubcnsis, Henequen or 5028. Cotton (colored with My- silk grass, Jamaica. sore dyes), India. 5047. Furercea gigantea, Madias. 50C4. Cypress, swamp (inner bark), 7026. Furercea gigantea, Mexican hemp, Quapaw Indians. Australia. 5343. 7130. Gazona ulmifolia. £ Dagger plant, Yucca aloifolia, Ja- 6760. 57495. f maica. hair, China. 7973. 57496. 7506. Daphne cannabina, Kainoon (pa- 7564. Gossypium sp. (stalk and fiber), per). 7568. New Orleans. 7267. Daphne tenuifolia. 5207. Grass (whisk broom), Florence. 7980. Daphnopsis tinifolia, burn-nose 7153. wool. bark, Jamaica. 6860. 7504. Debrcgcasia longifolia, Wild Rhea, 6861. >Guaxima, Urena lobata, Brazil. India. 6862. 7494. Dipicrocarpus tuberculatum, Bur- mah. 6863. Guaxima (seeds), Urena lobata, 7502. Diss, Ampclodesma tenax, Genoa. Brazil. camel. 7286. Doryanihus cxcclsa, Spear Lily, 7156. Hair, Russia. Australia. 8053. Hair, camel, 57495. Down. (See Algodon sylrcstris, Hair, goat, China. 57496. Asclepias, Bombax, Pain a, Popu- 7109. Ilelicicrcs jamaicensis. lus, Ochroma lagopus, etc.) Hemp. (See Cannabis saliva.) 7288. Dwarf Palm Lily, Cordyline pum- 7027. Hemp, African. ilio, New Zealand. 5337. >Hemp, African bowstring, San- 7954. Echinocactus horizonthalmum, wild guincensis, Jamaica. 7970. l sev'icra silk, Mexico. 7976. Ilem-p, ho wsti'mg,Sanscvicrazeyla- 6884. Embirama Xylopla scricca, Brazil. nica, Jamaica. 7261. Epeira socialis, silk spun by spi- 7026. Hemp, Mexican, Furercea gigantea, ders, Argentine Republic. Australia.

6865. ) Eriodendron sp. Paina loura, Bra- 7028. ) Hemp, Queensland, Sida retusa, S zil. 6872. 7031. ] Australia. 7287. Eucalyptus obliqua, stringy bark, 7289. Hemp, Victorian, Plagianihuspul- Australia. chellus, Australia. 7042. Fibers (unknown), Swan River, 5127. Hemp, coarse, Sida tiliwfolia, King- United States of Colombia. ma, China. 7496. Ficus Isiela, India. 5016 Hemp bark, Pan, Siam. 7004. Flame tree, Sicrculia acerifolia, 767272.? Hemp cloth, Madagascar. Australia. 767979. < 7293. Flax, Linum usitatissimum, Brazil. 7850 Henequen, Mexico. 6937. Flax, Linum usitatissimum, sixty- 7971 Henequen or silk grass, Furercea two specimens from various cubensis, Jamaica. countries. 6979. Hibiscus sp. 6934. Flax, cottonized (unbleached). 6987. Hibiscus csculentus. 6935. Flax, cottonized (bleached). 6981. Hibiscus csculentus, Maryland. 7574, Flax (dressed). 6980. Hibiscus csculentus, Mississippi. 7283. Flax, Irish (water-retted). 6982. Hibiscus laiifolia. 5140, Flax, Linum usitatissimum, Spain. 7035. Hibiscus moseheutos, American 7998. jute, United States. } Flax, Linum usUatissimum, Russia. 7999, 7284. Hibiscus moseheutos, Ohio. 6939 Flax, New Zealand, Phorminm 6978. Hibiscus sabdariffa. tenax, New Zealand. 6977. Hibiscus sinensis. )

652 REPORT ON NATIONAL MUSEUM, 188G.

7119. Hibiscus syriacus, Makuki. 7044. Mauritiaflexuosa, Utapalm, Dem- 5211. Hibisus tiliaceus, China. erara. 7495. Holoplelia integrifolia, . 107534. Mescal fiber, Arizona. 12261. Indian fabrics, Ohio. 7338. Milkweed, Asclepias, Iowa. 7934. Istle (ixtle) (fiber and coraline). 7118. Mitsumata, JVislcstrocmia Japon- 7872. Istle de lechuguilla, Mexico. ica. Jute. (See Corchorus sp.) 7586. (combed). 7034. Jute, Corchorus capsularis, Asia. 8054. Mummy cloth. 7036. Jute, Corchorus capsularis, Mary- 7013. Musa paradisiaca, plantain. land. 7014. Musa imradisiaca, plantain 7037. Jute, Corchorus capsularis, New hemp, Australia. Orleans. 7023. Musa paradisiaca, plantain, Brit- 7039. Jute, Corchorus capsularis, south- ish Guiana. western United States. 7012. Mtisa paradisiaca, plantain, 7030. Jute, Corchorus olitorius, Aus- Demerara. tralia. 7015. Musa sapientum, banana. 7035. Jute, American, Hibiscus nwschai- 7016.

to8, United States. 5311. Musa sapientum, banana, Jamai- 7489. Jute and paper pulp. 7971. ca. 7506. Kamoon (paper), Daphne eanna- 7017. Musa textiUs, manilla hemp. bina. 729."). Nettle-tree, Laportea gigas, Aus- 7117. Kanabikio. tralia. 7111. Kanabikio, Corchorus capsularis. 7453. Ochroma lagopus (down), Vene- 7116. Kara mushi, Bwhmcria nivea. zuela. 5335. 7043. Ochroma lagopus (bark), West Keratto, Agare keratto, Jamaica. 7977. Indies. 5127. King-ma (coarse hemp), Siila ti- 6869. Fa in a branca, Chorisia speciosa, liccfolia, China. Brazil. 7499. Kittool, Caryota urcns, Ceylon. 6864. Paina de coco, Bombax globosa, 7076. Elcinhovia hosplia. Brazil. 7077. Kydia calycina. 6865. Paina loura, Eriodendron sp., 7507. Kydia calycina, Australia. 6872. Brazil. 729."). Laportea gigas, Tree-nettle, Aus- 6880. Paina loura (seeds), Eriodendron tralia. sp., Brazil. 7872. Lechuguilla (ixtle or istle), Mex- 7288. Palm Lily, dwarf, Cordyline pu- ico. milio,Txew Zealand. 7873. Lechuguilla yunguillo, Mexico. 7263. Palm Lily, tall, Cordyline indi- 7874. Lechuguilla zarcia, Mexico. visa, Australia. 7264. Lepedospcrmum flexuosum, sword- 7573. Palmetto, Sabal palmetto, Geor- rush, Australia. gia. 7288. Lily, dwarf palm, Cordyline pu- 7981. Palmetto, low, Carludovica plu- milio, New Zealaud. mieri, Jamaica. 7263. Lily, tall palm, Cordyline indivisa, 5332. Papelillo fiber, San Salvador. Australia. 5016. Pau, hemp bark, Siam. 7286. Lily, spear, Doryanthus excelsa, 7503. Phoenix pedunculata, Madras. Australia. 6939. Phorium tenax, New Zealaud 7152. Lana de Lino, (wool), cross be- flax, New Zealand. tween and goat, Argen- Pine-apple. (See Ananassa and tine Republic. Bromelia. 7612. Linho, Brazil. 7975. Pinguin, Bromelia pinguin, Ja- 7293. Linum usitatissimum. (See Flax.) maica. 7266. Lyonsia reticulata, Australia. 7270. Pinus sylvestris (fabric from 7141. Maize (husk, , and cloth). leaves), France. 5177. Majaguillo bark, Venezuela. 7018. Pita (flossed), Honduras. 7119. Makuki, Hibiscus syriacus. Plantain. (See Musa paradi- 7017. Manilla hemp, Mum terlilis. siaca. ) TEXTILE FIBERS AND FABRICS. 653

5263. Pochote, Bombax ceiba, Guate- 7033. Sida Jamaiccmis. mala. 7032. Sida mollis. 7457. Foliate, Bombax pendandrum, Yu- 7028 Sida relusa, Queensland hemp, catan. 7031 Australia. 7411. Populus alba (down), Washing- 5127. Sida tilicefolia, coarse hemp, King- ton, D. C. ma, China. 7582. Silk 7079. Pothos violaceus. (cocoons), Argentine Repub- 7268. Pterocarpus saniatinus. lic. 7580. Silk (cocoons), 7505. Pueraria Thunbcrgiana (woven Chili. 6915. Silk (cocoons), fabric), Corea. . 7555. Silk tusser (cocoons), Anther a 7209. Pulu, Cibotium, sp., Sandwich w mylilta, India. Islands. 7068. Silk (wild cocoons), Argentine 7630. Ramie, Boehmeria nivea, Frauce. Republic. 7970. Eamie, Bcehmeria nivea, Jamaica. 7098. Silk (wild' cocoons), 7081. Ramie, Boehmeria nivea, Mexico. Madagas- car. 7080. Ramie (second cutting), Boeh- 7559. Silk, Bengal. meria nivea, Mississippi. 7067. Silk, Japan. 7093. ) Ramie, Boehmeria nivea. Philadel- 7262. Silk, raw, Japan. 7095. $ phi a. 7084. Ramie (from dresser), Boehmeria 93606. Silk, raw, from Yama Mai co- nivea. coons, Japan. 7639. Ramie (fabrics), Boehmeria 8061. nivea, > Silk, raw, and cocoons, Mexico. 8062. France. 7258. Silk, raw, North Carolina. 7631. ) Ramie (sliver and noils), Bosh me- 7632. 5 ria nivea, France. 6913. Silk, reeled, Bombyx pernyi, China.

7082 ) 7583. Silk, reeled, Massachusetts. "083* (Kamie (tow), Boehmeria nivea. 7046. Silk, reeled, Japan. r3i2. Ramie, with wool, cotton, etc. 7581. Silk, reeled, Kansas. (fabrics). 7260. Silk (from wild cocoons), Japan. 7099. Baphia rutfia (yarn), Madagascar. 7899. > Silk, wild, Mexico. 7566. Reed of the Nile. 7900. 7504. Rhea, wild, Dabregeasia longifolia, 7954. Silk, wild, Echinocaclus horizon- India. thalmum, Mexico. Rofia. (See Baphia.) 7261. Silk spun by spiders, Epeira soc- 7673. Rofia palm (fabrics), Madagascar. ialis, Argentine Republic. 7978. Rush or flag grass, Cladium occiden- 7455. Silk cottou. tal, Jamaica. 5340. Silk grass, Bromelia Jcaratas, Jam- 7264. Rush, sword, Lcpidospermumflexuo- aica. sum, Australia. 7257. Silk gut, Japan. 7573. Sabal palmetto, palmetto, Geor- 7337. Silk and banana (fabrics). gia. 7616. Sipo, Brazil. 7508. Saccharum munja. 5302. Spanish bayonet (leaves), Yucca 5236. Saccharum sp., sugar cane, Ha- alata. waii. 7286. Spear Lily, Doryanthus excelsa, Aus- tralia. 5337. ) Sanseviera guineensis, African bo w-

7970. ) string hemp, Jamaica. 7294. Sporobolus cryptandrus, New Mex- 7976. Sanseviera zeylanica, bowstring ico.

hemp, Jamaica. 6892. I Spruce root (rope), Washington Territory. 7509. Sarcocephalus cadamba, Burmah. 6893. J 7625. Scirpus validus, great bulrush, 6996. Sterculia, Australia. Arizona. 7004. Sterculia acerifolia,F\a,m&-tree, Aus- 7511. Scirpus validus, tule or tutle, pa- tralia. per pulp, Idaho. 7493. Sterculia ornata, Burmah. "114. Shina, Tilia cordata, var. Hiro- 7006. Sterculia sp., Australia. shima. 7007. Sterculia rupestris, Bottle-tree, 7113. Shina, Tilia cordata, var. Japonica. Australia. 654

7287. Stingy bark, Eucalyptus obliqua, 7118. Jliskstrocma Japonka, Mitsumata. Australia. 7409. Wool. (See Cosmos). 7565. Sugar-canc,l>agasse,New Orleans. 7828. Wool. 5236. Sugar-cane, Saccharum sp., Ha- 7309. Wool (samples), Vermont. waii. 7154. Wool, alpaca. Sword-rush, Lipidospermum jlex- 7264. Wool, Angora, Argentine Repub- uosum, Australia. lic. 7263. Tall Palm Lily, CordyUne indivisa, 7330. Wool, Angora, Maryland. Australia. 7245. Wool, black, Cordova. 7584. Tapestry, Persian. 7251. Wool, black yuli, Smyrna. 5179. Tea Weed, Mississippi. 7813. Wool, cashmere, Alabama. 7113. Tilia cordala, var. Japonica,Shimx. 7407. Wool, cashmere, California. 7114. Tilia cordata, var. Hiroshima, 7203. Wool, Donskoi, Russia. Shina. . 7153. Wool, guauaco. 6891. TillanUsia usneoides, Brazil. 7406. Wool, kid's. 7265. Tillandsia usneoides, South Caro- 7152. Wool, lina, cross of sheep and lina. goat, Argentine Republic. 7989. Tipiiapa do Buchivaca, Vene- 5317. Wool, mountain goat, Russian zuela. America. 7533. Tree, cotton. 7404. Wool, Rocky Mountain goat, In- 7295. Tree, nettle, Laporlea giga*, Aus- dian Territory. tralia. 7201. Wool, Sardinian. 7498. Triticum vuhjare, var. ccstivnm, 7155. . 7354. Wool, vicunia, South America. 7108. Triumfelta semitriloba. 6900. 5345. Trumpet tree (bark), Cecropia 7157. , various American (sam- peltata, Jamaica. ples).

6873. )Tucum, Astrocaryum vulgare, Bra- 7312. Wool, cotton, and ramie (fabric). 6875. zil. \ 7332. Wool, cotton, and flax (fabric), Tuloor tutle (paper pulp), Scirpus 7511. New Mexico. validus, Idaho. 7569. Xylopia sp., Brazil. 7555. Tusscr silk (cocoons), Antherwa 6884. Xylopia sericea, Embirama, Brazil. mylitia. 7044. Utapalm, Mauritia flexuosa, DtMia- 6860. crara. 6861. > Urena lobata, Guaxima, Brazil. (5862. 7403. Yucca (fabric and cord), Mexico. 6863. Urena lobata (seeds) Guaxima, 5302. Yucca alata (leaves), Spanish bay- Brazil. onet. 6993. 6998. Yucca aloifoJia, Adam's needle, > Urena lobata, Brazil. 6994. Australia. 6995. Urena sinuata. 5343. ,;.' f Yucca alo{ifolia, Dagger plant, Ja- 7973 7112. Urena no kawa. Acer cratoegi- C maica. 6760..q folium. 21065. Yucca baccata (coarse), Southern Urtica Thuubcrgiana, Aiso. California. Vegetable silk, Asclepias, India. 21066. Yucca baccata (fine), Southern Vicunia wool, South America. California. 6997. Yucca baccata, California. Vine and liber (unidentified), 7456. Yughan, Alogodon sylvestris. India. 7969. Yuguilla Venezuela. TEXTILE FIBERS AND FABRICS. 655

The ultimate object of the collection represented by the foregoing list is to afford a series of type specimens of textile fibers, to be used in microscopical examinations, comparisons, etc. It will be seen that the list already embraces a large number of valuable types for thispurpose. Mingled with these, however, purely for the temporary convenience of the curator, there are, at present, a number of specimens, representing much larger ones in the reserve and exhibition series, which have not been accurately determined and are awaiting further study. Hence in some cases only common or vernacular names are given in the list, the botanical names not being known. In all cases the numbers in the margin are the regular Museum register numbers of the same fibers in the reserve or exhibition series.