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Winter 2008 Textile Society of America Newsletter 20:1 — Winter 2008 Textile Society of America

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 20 • NUMBER 1 • WINTER, 2008

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Hawaii' s Textile Resources Featured at Site Seminars 11th TSA Biennial Symposium, Honolulu, HI, Sep. 24-27 CON TEN T 5

TSA 2008 Symposium Site HAWAII PLANS AN EXCITING Restoring the Grandeur of and its contents and furnish- Seminars and unique addition King Kalakaua's and Queen ings were sold and dispersed. 3 President's Letter to the program for Lili'uokalani's 'Iolani Palace A worldwide search, spanning 4 TSA News the upcoming Symposium in Following a detective-story pre­ four decades, has recovered Honolulu. Site Seminars at muse- sentation by Deborah Kraak that over 3, I 00 original palace items. S TSA Member News ums and at special exhibitions interprets rare pieces of evidence The palace experts will discuss 6 TSA Member News, continued will feature the unequaled col- available between Honolulu, the methodology used, archival 8 Visual Language of Cloth: lections and resources of Hawaii. New England, Europe, and the materials consulted, and the Commemorative Handkerchiefs On Friday, September 26, from Orient, seminar participants modern resources found for the by Daphne Zuniga-West 2:00-4:30 pm, Site Seminars will be escorted through 'Iolani reproduction of historic textiles. 10 Symposium Site Seminars, will allow Symposium attend- Palace by curator Stuart Ching Special textile artifacts will be on continued ees behind-the-scenes access and collections manager Malia temporary display only for the 11 Pre-Symposium Colloquium to textiles and their stories. Bus Van Heukelem. 'Iolani Palace TSA Symposium. The seminar Post-Symposium Tour transportation to the museums was the royal residence of the will end with a presentation by Publications News, Member and exhibition sites is provided Hawaiian monarchy from 1882 quilt scholar Loretta Woodard News, continued through funding from the State until the overthrow of Queen and a viewing of the spectacular 12 Featured Collection: Armenian of Hawaii Department of Lili'uokalani in 1893, when but poignant crazy quilt begun Museum and Library Business, Economic Development the palace was transformed by Queen Lili'uokalani while she 13 Collections News and Tourism (DBEDT). into a government building was imprisoned in an upstairs 14 Exhibition Reviews Be sure to register early' As room of the palace in 1895. space is limited at each of the 16 Calendar-Exhibitions Site Seminars, it is important Presenting Culturally Sensitive 18 Calendar-Lectures, Workshops, for all Symposium registrants to Exhibitions This Site Seminar Tours indicate the Site Seminar of their highlights the need for incor­ 19 Conferences & Symposia, choice when they register (also porating culturally sensitive Employment listing their second and third approaches into the display choices). When individual Site of native objects and natural THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA, Seminars become fully booked, resources. Participants will be INC. PROVIDES AN INTERNATIONAL registrants will be assigned to among the first to have an on­ FORUM FOR THE EXCHANGE their second or third choice of site tour of the renovation of AND DISSEMINATION OF sessions. Two new and unique Hawaiian Hall, a masterwork of INFORMATION ABOUT Site Seminars have been added late-Victorian museum design TEXTILES WORLDWIDE, to the list of eight published ear- at The Bishop Museum. This FROM ARTISTIC, CULTURAL, lier in the Newsletter. They are three-year project will be com­ ECONOMIC, HISTORIC, the first two listed here: Throne Room at 'Iolani Palace, one pleted in the spring of 2009. POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND of the venues for Site Seminars Noelle Kahanu, project manager TECHNICAL PERSPECTIVES. during the 2008 TSA Symposium. top.2 TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA cloth bedcovers (kapa ku 'ina) that TSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS facilitated the transition to quilt­ 11 TH BIENNIAL SYMPOSIUM OFFICERS making when it was first intro­ PRESIDENT duced by American Protestant Carol Bier missionaries in the I 820s. TEL 510/849-2478 Hawaiian quilt expert Loretta caro/[email protected] Woodard will show examples of the "other" Hawaiian quilts-the VICE PRESIDENT Patricia Hickman less well-known, non-traditional TEL 8451947-8735 TEXTILES AS CULTURAL E XPRESSIONS types involving piecing, applique [email protected] and embroidery. Expert Lee Wild HONOLULU, HAWAI'I TREASURER will focus on the striking and bold Patricia Cox Crews fromp.l two-color patterns of traditional TEL 402/472-6342 for the renovation, will describe art traditions-feather work, Hawaiian applique quilts and the [email protected] the new interpretive plan for the hapa making, and hala or puhala hidden meanings of their motifs. weaving. Witness a royal feather RECORDING SECRETARY exhibits, emphasizing a complex Finally, well-known Hawaiian Roxane Shaughnessy layering of native perspectives. cape being made, as well as quilter Junedale Lauwa'eomakana TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 Maile Drake, the museum's hahili (royal standards) and feath­ Quinories will "talk story" and [email protected] er leis. Hawaiian feather artisans Collections Manager, will discuss demonstrate Hawaiian quilting DIRECTOR OF INTERNAL RELATIONS the consequences of a decision surpassed all other Pacific island­ techniques that are integral to the (vacant) to omit interpretive information ers in the variety and quality of current Hawaiian renaissance. their work, tying multitudes of DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIONS that would have aided in under­ Janice Lessman-Moss standing the cultural significance tiny feathers from forest birds Plantation-Era and 20th­ TEL 330/672-2158 FAX 330/672-4729 of objects in an exhibition of to close-meshed, durable nets Century Textiles in Hawaii j/[email protected] material collected during Captain made from the strong fibers At the Japanese Cultural Center of the olona plant. Kapa, or PAST PRESIDENT Cook's voyages. A third presen­ of Hawaii visit the exhibition Pamela Parmal Hawaiian bark cloth, served tation by anthropologist Keola "Pride and Practicality: Japanese TEL 617/369-3707 FAX 617/262-6549 Awong will relate how a collabora­ as clothing in old Hawaii and Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii" [email protected] tion between Hawaiian elders and is considered the finest in the and hear poignant stories of how DIRECTORS AT-LARGE Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Pacific, unexcelled in workman­ precious kimono were cut up and Mary Ann Fitzgerald staff resulted in an important shift ship, colors and designs, and adapted to work clothing. Barbara TEL 608/263-3686 in perspective regarding resource in the tools of production. Join Kawakami has spent a lifetime [email protected] management and protection. in discussions of kapa-making collecting, researching, writing and Joanne Dolan Ingersoll and a demonstration of lauhala lecturing on immigrant clothing. weaving. TEL 4011454-6514 Traditional Art Forms in Sara Nunes-Atabaki relates touch­ dolaningersol/@gmail.com Hawaii Join creators of Hawaiian ing stories of The Shishu Ladies Fran Dorsey traditional arts at the Heritage Hawaiian Quilting: An of Hilo as she observed them Evolving Cultural Tradition TEL 902/494-8113 FAX 902/425-2420 Center on the spectacularly sited embroidering in her grandpar­ [email protected] campus of Kamehameha Schools. Learn about the Hawaiian ents' house in Hilo. They taught Founded in 1887 by Princess quilting tradition in the gra­ the centuries-old art of shishu Sumru Krody cious atmosphere of the Queen TEL 202/667-0441 ext. 37 Bernice Pauahi Bishop, great-grand­ to predominantly nisei (second FAX 202/483-0994 daughter of King Kamehameha Emma Summer Palace in lush generation) women; the designs skrody@texti/emuseum.org I, Kamehameha Schools provides Nu'uanu Valley, and examine and functions of their work were significant examples from the Matilda McQuaid educational opportunities for transformed in the new setting. TEL 212/849-8451 children of Hawaiian ancestry. Palace collection. The seminar Shishu required perseverance and [email protected] Native specialists in traditional arts opens with a discussion by discipline and it reinforced cul­ Barbara Harger on the native Vita Plume E. Nuulani Atkins, Gussie Bento, tural values, stories and aesthetic TEL 919/513-4466 FAX 919/515-7330 and Duncan Ka'ohuoka'ala Seto Hawaiian tradition of making sensibilities. As the ladies became [email protected] highlight three unique Hawaiian multilayered "stitched" bark shishu friends, lasting relationships TASK REPRESENTATIVES were formed. Carol Nagano is TSAWebsite Sheraton Waikiki Extends Special Rate to Students committed to keeping the ancient Susan Gunter, [email protected] craft of kumihimo- Japanese braid­ TSA Listserve The Sheraton Waikiki Hotel, venue for the 2008 TSA Biennial ing alive. Kumihimo flourished Laura Strand, [email protected] Symposium, has generously extended a special room rate of in Japan during the Samurai era $100.00 (single/double) to students. Students must call the when the intricately-braided cords TSA Newsletter Editor Karen Searle [email protected] hotel directly 808/921-4611, indicate they are coming for the were used for helmets and armor, TSA Symposium, and provide verification of student 10. This sword hilts, bows and arrows, TSA Symposium 2008 Co-Chairs special rate only applies to the four days of the Symposium, harnesses, clothing, and religious Reiko Brandon, [email protected] Tom Klobe, [email protected] Sept. 24-27, 2008. and temple embellishments. See top. 10

2 TSA NEWSLETTER New Initiatives Study Tours continue to TSA Board Changes be developed. At the Oct. 2007 The Founding Presidents' We thank Lisa Kriner for her Board meeting we approved A wards will be inaugrated at the five years of service, most recent­ plans for a tour to Uzbekistan I I th TSA Biennial Symposium ly as Internal Relations Director. for Spring 2009, and are looking in Honolulu, Sep. 24-27, 2008. Lisa has stepped down for per­ ahead to Study Tours to Peru, These newly-established awards sonal reasons; in October the Oct. 30-Nov. 13, 2009; and to recognize excellence in the fields Board accepted her resignation Korea in Fall 20 I I. of textile studies and support with regret. The Board position A TSA Member Survey the presentation of new work at of Internal Relations Director will solicit your assessment of HE WINDS BLEW AND MY SAILS TSA Symposia. will remain vacant until the TSA Member Benefits, guiding Ttook me to the Doge's A TSA Publications new Board takes office in late the setting of our priorities for Palace in Venice, where I was Initiative funded by The Coby September. the future. As a result of the privileged to see the exhibition Foundation, Ltd. will provide Ashley Callahan has 2003 TSA Member Survey, we "Venezia e Islam," organized an opportunity for us all to resigned as Task Representative have instituted Student/New by Stefano Carboni of the assess the publication needs in for the TSA Website; she has Professional Awards, and schol­ Metropolitan Museum of Art in the fields of textile studies. We been succeeded by Susan arships for all TSA-initiated New York with the collaboration encourage you to take the time Gunter, a colleague at the programs, tours, and workshops. of the Institut du Monde Arabe to consider what is needed for Georgia Museum of Decorative Think about how you would in Paris and the Musei Civici us to advance the field-individu­ Arts, who is eager to take on like this organization to advance Veneziani. To witness the interac­ ally and collectively. When you this increasingly important role. your professional and personal tions of technology and aesthet­ receive an email announcing this Ashley has kindly agreed to goals, and take this opportunity ics through trade, diplomacy, survey, we hope that you will train Susan for this position. to share your thoughts with the and war, physically displayed in share your thoughts and contrib­ We thank Ashley for her four TSA Board. a locale central to the activities ute to a collective understanding years of dedicated Board service of the Venetian Republic, was that will benefit us all as we National Office Changes before taking on this role as Task a thrilling experience. We are proceed. Representative. reminded of the signal impor­ Site Seminars at the I I th We are pleased to welcome tance of textiles in the cultural Biennial Symposium will offer Charlotte Cosby as Manager May Elections of the TSA National Office and crossings of the East and the West special opportunities for presen­ Our annual elections are Member Services. Charlotte by the exhibition's crimson velvet tations and discussion on specific approaching in May. Please joined the TSA staff on Oct. cushions, chasubles embroidered topics in association with exhi­ be sure to express your voice 15, as Executive Director, Kim or brocaded with gold, elegantly bitions. Each Site Seminar will through submitting nomina- Righi, moved into a full-time draped and patterned silk textiles, take place at a unique Hawaii tions and voting, and share your position with the Cecil County and the careful depiction of gar­ cultural institution. We are for­ concerns with the Board. TSA Chamber of Commerce. Kim ments, headgear, and furnishings tunate to have the participation exists to serve its members by trained Charlotte in all aspects in official portraits of cardinals, and collaboration of the Bishop providing an international forum of TSA membership services and popes, princes and pashas. Those Museum, East-West Center and for the exchange and dissemina­ database management, registra­ of us who are engaged in the Shangri La, Hamilton Library, tion of information about textiles tion for tours and Symposia, study and practice of textiles are Honolulu Academy of Arts worldwide from artistic, cultural, handling public inquiries, and the inheritors of this rich legacy of and the Academy Art Center, economic, historical, political, providing liaison with our global importance. 'Iolani Palace, Japanese Cultural social, and technical perspec­ Website. Kim will continue to Several new initiatives for Center of Hawaii, Kamehameha tives. We strive to achieve these handle all TSA financial transac­ TSA will foster the broader Schools, Queen Emma's Summer ambitious goals by organizing tions through 2008 and oversee awareness and recognition of Palace, and the University of and developing a broad range of Charlotte's initial months. The dynamic historical traditions and Hawaii Art Gallery. Please reg­ activities and programs that rely TSA email, phone, and mailing contemporary practice, which ister early to reserve the Site upon the cooperation and collab­ address have changed. Please together shape the world in Seminar of your choice! (For oration of a corps of dedicated make note of our new phone which we live today. more information, see p. I J members and volunteers working and fax numbers, and postal A Textiles and Technology together to advance our interests TSA NATIONAL OFFICE mailing address listed in the box Workshop will again be offered and provide rich opportunities at left. Facing these transitions Charlotte Cosby, Manager by TSA preceding the 2008 for professional growth. Please PO Box 193 in the TSA National Office and Symposium. We have received consider the ways in which you Middletown, DE 19709 changes within the Board (see in-kind support from the Bishop can contribute to make our col­ TEL 302/378-9636 below) has proved challenging, FAX 302/978-9637 Museum in Honolulu, where lective dreams come true. but we are committed to a tran­ [email protected] this year's seminar, "Identifying We hope to see you in sition without disruption. Thanks Textiles: Surface Finishes and Hawaii at our I I th Biennial Visit the TSA website, to each of you for your patience Techniques," will be taught by Symposium' www.textilesociety.org Desiree Koslin. and consideration. for membership forms, tour Aloha, information and latest news. - Carol Bier, TSA President

WINTER 2008 3 The Coby Foundation, Ltd. responsible for covering their shop. At the Mingei Museum we is the only US foundation focus­ own travel costs and accom­ saw traditional Indian textiles. ing solely on funding projects in modations as well as other Yoshiko commented that cotton textiles and needle arts. Its inter­ meals during the Symposium. is more amazing than silk since est in the survey was prompted Recipients will be asked to: silk is already a smooth fiber, by two factors: I) The recogni­ I. Attend the opening but short-staple cotton fluff must tion that textiles provide a valid reception of the Symposium, be spun into fine thread. A hot and important subject of study 6:00- 8:00 pm on Wed. Sep. 24, bath in a traditional ryakan was and scholarly investigation; 2) where they will be introduced. a welcome relief from the bustle the currently prevalent attitudes 2. Select one panel or ses­ of Tokyo. 2007 Shep Award among university presses, which sion from the Symposium or an In Kiriu we reeled silk from Book Award are reluctant to publish scholarly exhibition on display in conjunc­ cocoons bobbing in warm water monographs-particularly those tion with the Symposium and at the Milano Rib Company. An Nominations Due which require numerous illustra­ write a review of it for the TSA ailing but enthusiastic Junichi Arai tions and color reproductions. Newsletter. delighted us with an exhibition of HE RECIPIE NT OF THE 2006 The survey will be used to ascer­ To apply please submit: his new work with metal melt-off TR.L. Shep Award was The tain current needs with regard I. A statement (maximum shibari. We purchased Junichi's Kashmiri Shawl, from Jamavar to to the publication of scholarly 250 words) outlining how atten­ daughter Motomi's light-weight Paisley by Sherry Rehman and monographs in a diverse range of dance at the Symposium would jewelry made with fine stainless Naheed Jafri, published by Mapin textile fields. relate to and benefit your profes­ steel threads. Junichi's son-in-law, Publishing Pvt. Ltd. The survey will be distributed sional goals. Masanao Arai, accompanied us Victoria Rivers is Chair of online to the largest possible con­ 2. If images are relevant to to visit artist and scholar Mr. the 2007 R.L. Shep Book Award stituency of textile scholars, aca­ your work and submission state­ Kazuo Mutloh, who, in spite Committee that will review and demics, creative practitioners and ment, you may submit up to 8 of illness, graciously allowed select the best recently published other specialists. To facilitate the jpeg images of 72 dpi resolution Yoshiko to show us a group of book on ethnographic textiles. compilation of a comprehensive with a size no larger than 854 x Meisen kimono. This prestigious award is given mailing list, we welcome your 1280 pixels. Please include an In the traditional shibori annually by the Textile Society assistance. Individuals associated image list providing title, dates, center of Arimatsu, we tried pole of America. Also serving on with academic presses or others dimensions, and medium for wrapping with a mechanized the committee are Mattiebelle with an interest in learning from each image. device in Mr. Kaei Hayakawa's Gittinger and Barbara Sloan. this survey, please contact the 3. A resume, clearly indicat­ workshop, where our samples The committee seeks nomina­ TSA office with recommenda­ ing title and starting date of your were dyed in his long vat of natu­ tions for books on global textiles tions for questions or topics. current occupation or position. ral indigo. Then we enjoyed sub­ published in 2007. Please send [email protected] Scholarship submissions lime textiles and tea at the show­ your nomination, and include the will be reviewed and awards room of Mr. Kahei Takeda II, a author's name, book title, pub­ determined by the TSA Awards 15th-generation shibori merchant. lisher and 2007 publication date, Student/New Committee. Please submit to Victoria at [email protected]. Professional your request via e-mail to Vita Since it takes some time to solicit Below: Yoshiko Wada greeting Scholarships for Plume at [email protected] and receive the review copies, Junichi Arai at Arai's exhibition in by March 3 t I 2008. Successful Kiryu. Photo: Vita Plume. nominations should be received 2008 Symposium recipients will be notified by May Facing page: The TSA Japan Study by Feb. t I 2008. Many thanks 15,2008. for your nominations. SA'S PROGRAM OF Tour group with Mr. Inamoto at the TStudent/ New Professional Kyoto Ethnographic Museum. Some participants are wearing traditional Scholarships will again be offered Japan Study Tour TSA Receives Coby patched and stitched boro garments for the TSA Symposium in Report from the Museum colllection. Photo: Foundation Grant Honolulu, HI, Sep. 24-26, 2008. Masako Takenaka. Scholarships will be awarded to ERE ARE SOME MEMORIES SA IS PLEASED TO ANNOU NC E several TSA members who are H from an incredible journey Tthe receipt of a grant from currently either students in a tex­ where tour leader Yoshiko The Coby Foundation, Ltd. tile-related field, have graduated Wada's impromptu lectures on to develop and undertake a from a textile-related field within Japanese culture and language survey of publication needs the past three years, or have enriched each day. in the fields of textile studies. been working in their first job The Tokyo fashion scene Since TSA's mission is to pro­ in the textile field for less than was epitomized by the boutique vide an international forum for three years. Babaghuri, where owner Jurgen exchange and dissemination of The Scholarship award will Lehl greeted us. Tokyo National information about textiles, it is cover the cost of the Symposium Museum exhibition treasures well-positioned to undertake this registration, including the ban­ were followed by shopping at investigation. quet. The recipients will be Morita, a rich antique textile

4 TSA NEWSLETTER In the sea-side town of the fashions at Hinaya Company, Obama we enjoyed very fresh the endeavor of a former obi sushi. At a local paper studio we maker specializing in exquisite created layered mulberry paper. naturally dyed fashions. We We also visited the Ethnographic also visited the Kyoto National Museum in that district, known Museum and numerous bou­ for wisteria fiber weaving. The tiques such as the charming Sou curator, Mr. Inamoto, allowed us Sou,which promotes tradition­ to try on old bora, patched and ally dyed, yet hip clothing styles. stitched wisteria garments. Keiko Kawsashima's Gallery Hiroyuki Shindo welcomed Gallery, founded by Masakazu Meg Andrews will participate us to the thatched village of Kobayashi, remains a top spot in the the Decorative Antiques Miyama. He has recently installed for contemporary textile art. & Textiles Fair, Jan. 22-27 at a small intemational indigo After visiting I.M. Pei's Miho Battersea Park, London, and in museum in his home. We dyed Museum, tucked away in a the London Textile Society's cloth in his natural indigo dye beautiful mountain, we stopped Antique Textile Fair on Mar. 9. vats and saw a video of Shindigo in Shigaraki, where we saw [email protected] Shibori, a clever variation on pole T adayasu Sasayama's ceramics Mona Berman, art dealer, con­ wrapping. The next day, fiber and his anagama kiln built into sultant and independent scholar artist Naomi Kobayashi greeted the hillside. Shibori work in indigo by Rebecca with a special focus on ethno­ us in her beautiful country home. The last evening of the tour Cross. graphic and contemporary art Her late husband (and artist) was spent at the opening festivi ­ textiles, served on the jury panel Two textile sculptures were used Masakazu, attended University ties of the Kumihimo Conference, for the Jacob K. Javits Fellowship in a collaborative performance with Yoshiko. Their home is where the exhibit room full of Program. The program pro- at Playhouse Square, Cleveland, imbued with the art and affec­ extraordinary braids was opened vides fellowships for study at OH, during the 2007 "Cleveland tion of two people who shared a up for us. A last bit of shopping the doctoral and MFA level in Ingenuity FestivaL" The multime­ common passion. at a textile supplier and a needle selected fields of arts, humanities, dia per-formance, "Fault Lines," One highlight of the trip was shop with a lovely garden filled and social sciences. Mona was included choreography, original the 59th Annual Exhibition of our suitcases to the brim. pleased to note the large number music, and video art, and was Shoso-in Treasures at the Nara I have not mentioned the of applicants in the Fine Arts produced by Kora Radella's National Museum. A small group numerous amazing meals we field working in or with textiles. Double Edge Dance Company. of ancient textiles was brought enjoyed and all the various types Some artists worked primarily in An earlier version of the perfor­ to life for us through Yoshiko's of accommodations from the textiles while others incorporated mance at the Cleveland Public instruction. At a sumi ink shop most modern to the truly tradi­ textiles and textile techniques Theatre in Feb. 2007 received we practiced calligraphy and tional and rustic. So I close this in their work. These artists were critical acclaim. then formed sumi sticks by memory with thanks to Yoshiko among the most interesting to Three of Rebecca's wear­ kneading the warm ingredients. Wada, Masako Takenaka (our the six-member panel. abies were in the "Wearable Three simple ingredients (red admirable local guide), and TSA [email protected] Art Show" produced by the pine soot, water buffalo skin for an amazing journey. Textile Arts Alliance of the glue, and perfume) produce a - Barbara Shapiro Karen Diadick Casselman, Cleveland Museum of Art last variety of blacks after the sticks Textile Artist and Educator Director of the Nova Scotia fall. Four landscape quilts were are aged for four years. San Francisco, CA Institute for Natural Dyes, has in "Earth Matters: International In Kyoto we experimented completed her PhD at the Art Exhibit 2007," Nov.-Dec. with natural dyeing and admired University of New Brunswick, at The University of T exas- Canada. Her dissertation Pan American's camapus in was on British dyeing in the Edinburg, TX. The exhibition can period 1750-1920. She also be viewed at: http://www.utpa. attended "Dyes in History and eduldeptlintemationalprograms l Archaeology" in Vienna (Nov. default. asp. Three of Rebecca's 2007), and presented a paper shibori pieces are included in in association with Dr. Takako "Mood Indigo" at the Kent State Terada, Kwassai Women's University Fashion Museum, University, Nagasaki, Japan. Kent, OH. Curated by Dr. Anne [email protected] Bissonnette, the show juxtaposes indigo pieces from the museum's Two works by Rebecca Cross textile collection with work by appeared in "Fiber Directions regional artists, and is on display 2001" at Wichita (KS) Center for until Aug. 2008. the Arts, Mar. 16-May 20, 2007. [email protected] top. 6

WINTER 2008 5 (romp. 5 Museum, Pasadena, CA, on view Alan Kennedy is organizing an Barbara Shapiro's coiled waxed­ Walter Denny spends one through Jan. 27. (www.pacificasia­ exhibition of historic Japanese linen basket, 'Tajine II," was day a week at the Metropolitan museum.org). The exhibition focus­ costume during Asia Week in selected for "Beyond Basketry Museum of Art serving as a es on emblems of office (rank New York City, Mar. 17-22 at 2008" on view at the Dairy Barn Senior Consultant in the plan­ badges or mandarin squares) the James Goodman Gallery in Art Center, Athens, OH, May ning for the reopening of the worn by civil and military offi­ the Fuller Building, 41 E. 57th St. 23-Sep. I. The work will travel to Met's Islamic Galleries, scheduled cials in the Ming (1368-1644) Asia Week is an annual event in other venues until 20 I O. A cata­ for 20 I I. His work at present is and Qing (1644-191 I) dynasties. New York, featuring gallery and logue is being produced by Ohio largely focusing on carpets and In 2008 Dale will lead a four­ museum exhibitions, art fairs and University Press. textiles in the Museum's collec­ week textile-oriented Silk Road auctions focused on Asian art. www.barbara-shapiro.com tions. He continues to work on tour in China, departing Nov. 8. [email protected] [email protected] the catalogue for the exhibition For tour information please con­ of the Ballard Collection of ori­ tact Dale at gluckman@earthink. Judith Powell Krone was Uzramma sends this update to her awarded the Tom and Lora ental carpets in the St. Louis Art net or Phila McDaniel at lecture on khadi weaving in India Museum, scheduled to open in [email protected], or visit Arledge Fine Art Merit award at the 2006 TSA Symposium: Our at the Georgia National Fair. field-to-fabric initiative, making late 2008. www.eastwesttours.net. [email protected] She was delighted to be the first the cotton textile chain entirely Jane Hoffmann announces her weaver to receive this award. village-based, harnesses the best Three drawings by Emily 2008 workshop schedule. She She will teach a workshop in engineering minds of the country DuBois have been accepted into offers a January felting workshop March for the Chattachoochee to the village skills and tradi­ the collection of the Renwick and an April workshop in natural Handweavers Guild: "Designing tions. At the time of the Toronto Gallery, Washington DC and dyeing in her Tucson, AZ studio. with the three Ts .. .. Threading, Symposium in Oct. 2006, we two woven works into the collec­ She will teach a summer tapestry Treadling and Tie-Up." Judith had one working unit. Now, a tion of the Hilo Art Museum. weaving workshop at Waugh teaches weaving at the year later, two more have been emi/y@emi/ydubois.com Mountain Alpacas, Nutrioso, AZ. Callanwolde Fine Arts Center. installed. The one in Wardha, For details, see Jane's website, She was the weaving consultant Maharashtra is part of a Khadi Deborah Gamer, formerly www.desertweaving.com, or email on "The Thread Project," which establishment, where all the spin­ of Tribal Spirit, announces her [email protected] hung in St. Paul's Chapel in NYC ning is done by hand. The other, new business, Deborah Gamer for the 5th anniversary of 9/ II. in Khammam, Andhra Pradesh, Collection, and her online pres­ Nancy Arthur Hoskins has The panels were exhibited in is in a village that grows cotton ence at http://www.deborahgamer­ received a grant from Australia Charleston, SC in September, without chemical pesticides. Here collection. com. She features muse­ National University to present and many of the weavers attend­ the electronically-controlled pre­ um-quality costumes/textiles of lectures on Coptic textiles for ed a reception and performance. spinning machines-carder, draw­ traditional peoples of Asia, Africa their Art Forum program and for (See www.threadproject.com.) frame and fly-frame-designed and the Americas, as well as 'Tapestry 2008," the internation­ [email protected] and made by Vortex Engineering personal adornment and cultural al tapestry conference being held of Chennai are being run by local artifacts. Members with special in Canberra, May 1-4, 2008. Five works by Karen Maru boys who we've trained. There interests or those seeking com­ [email protected] appeared in the "Rays of Hope" was no weaving in this village, plete costumes of tribal peoples exhibition at the Rhonda Schaller but women have taken to it Elyse Koren-Camarra co­ may contact her via email: Gallery, New York, Dec. 6-20, enthusiastically, and to spinning, curated two fiber art ehibitions [email protected]. 2007. A gallery of her multicul­ too, on motorized 12-spindle for ILNMW A (Illinois State tural textile works can be seen at ring-frames. Committee for the National Dale Carolyn Gluckman karenmaru.com. [email protected] curated the exhibition "Rank and Museum of Women in the Arts), [email protected] Style: Power Dressing in Imperial held Oct. 2 I-Dec. 30 in Chicago, Carol Westfall exhibited three China," for the Pacific Asia with David L Johnson. Elyse Four TSA members were involved pieces from her "Sufi Poetry" currently serves as President of in the exhibition and catalog La series of digital prints in the "Prints the organization, with Johnson Trama y La Urdimbre: textiles tradi­ & Company" exhibition at the as Treasurer. The exhibition cionales del Peru (]he Watp and the Ben Shahn Galleries at William held at Gage Gallery, Roosevelt Weft: Traditional Textiles of PeruJ. Paterson University, Wayne, NJ. University, featured work by The exhibition was held at the These are printed on Italian cotton instructors Laura Strand, Peruvian-North American Cultural and "framed" in cloth. Christine LoFaso, and Christy Center (ICPNA) in Miraflores, [email protected] Matson, each of whom selected Lima, Peru, Jul. 12-Sep. 9, 2007. one student to show with. The Mary Frame, Lynn Meisch, and Patricia Williams, Professor other exhibition at the Ukrainian Ann Rowe wrote articles for the Emerita of Textiles and Director Institute of Modern Art featured catalog. while Elayne Zorn wrote of the Jacquard Certificate work by Chicago fiber artists. wall text on Taquile Island weav­ Program in the Art Department [email protected] ing for the exhibition. of Eastern Michigan University, L [email protected] "Sea Grape"tapestry by Jane Hoffmann.

6 TSA NEWSLETTER Holly Brackmann's book, The and costumes, decorative arts Surface Designer's Handbook: and design. He is author of 30 Dyeing, Printing, Painting and museum exhibition catalogues Creating Resists on Fabric and numerous academic and (Interweave Press, $29.95), was popular books and articles. The designated the best "how-to" tex­ 72-page catalog sells for $29.95 Learning to tile book for 2006 by The Library and is available from weave on the Journal and is now in the second www.museums.ualberta.edu handloom, printing. The book is a compre­ john. [email protected] Khammam, Andhra Pradesh, hensive guide to studio practices India, October in dyeing, painting, and printing Beth Wheeler's latest book, 2007. Photo: on fabric. Altered Photo Artistry, was released Uzramma. [email protected] at the International Quilt Market in Houston, TX last November. Weaving a Chronicle by judith Details can be found at will be in Norway as a Fulbright implements, and a massive pho­ Poxson Fawkes was published www.threadography.net. Scholar, jan.-May, 2008. She tographic archive of Anatolian in conjunction with an exhibi­ [email protected] will conduct weaving research nomadic and village weavers will tion of eight new linen tapestries at Digital Weaving Norway, and be made available to researchers exhibited Nov. 28-Dec. 22, 2007 Berg Publications lists several both lecture and participate in a in the near future. The catalogues at Laura Russo Gallery, Portland, books by TSA members in its "Future Textiles" project at the are of two exhibits of her collec­ OR. The book pictures 46 tap­ Fall, 2007 catalog. These include: Bergen National Academy of the tion. They are available online at estries, accompanied by stories Quality Assurance for Textiles and Arts. Working on a TC-I loom http://www.pandora.com.tr/ of their creation. The tapestries Apparel by Sara J. Kadolph, with Norwegian wools at each They are also available from contribute to the chronicle of Twentieth-Century American location, she will investigate opti­ Pusula Productions, how artistic ideas are conceived Fashion edited by linda Welters cal color mixing and differential tel (0090)212.293.69.68 and executed. Judith is a graduate and Patricia Cunningham, The shrinkage effects in jacquard For orders via email: [email protected] of Cranbrook Academy of Art. Fashion Reader edited by Linda weaving. [email protected] She taught college-level weaving Welters and Abby Lillethun, [email protected] at four institutions, most recently and Dress Sense: Emotional and Sally Holkar and Sharada at Lewis and Clark College in Sensory Experience of the Body and Member Publications Dwivedi are co-authors of Portland. Her 56 commissions Clothes edited by Donald Clay Kimberly Hart is the editor and Almond Eyes and Lotus Feet: Indian hang in such diverse locations as Johnson and Helen Bradley a contributor to two recently Traditions in Beauty and Health, a a Federal courthouse, hospitals, Foster. See www.bergpublishers. published catalogues on the compilation of tales and reme­ university and school buildings, com for details. josephine Powell collection of dies gathered from grand women corporations and businesses, a Anatolian f1atweaves : Josephine of India's past. Proceeds benefit Royal Caribbean Cruise ship, Electronic Media Powell Collection, 2003 Exhibition the WomenWeave International homes in Saudi Arabia and Paris, DVD Release: Arimatsu-Narumi Catalogue: Kilim Ornekleri: Fund. The book is available in and in a jail lobby; 63 tapestries Shibori: Celebrating 400 Years Examples from Kilims, and bookstores, through Amazon.com, are in public collections. She is ofJapanese Artisan Design. The Josephine Powell Collection, 2007 Barnes & Noble.com, and at other a recipient of a WESTAF/NEA Guild of Artisans from the vil­ Giving Back the Colours, published internet book sites. Regional Fellowship for Visual lages of Arimatsu and Narumi, by the Vehbi Ko<;: Foundation, Sally has been involved with Artists, an Individual Artists' japan, has assembled an in-depth Istanbul 2007. handloom revival in India for 35 Fellowship from the Oregon view of their work, illustrating josephine Powell was a years. She and her husband found­ Art Commission, and a Crafts both traditional and modern photographer, amateur eth­ ed the Rehwa Society to benefit Fellowship from the National processes of japanese shape-resist nographer and textile collector Maheshwar's threatened weav- Endowment for the Arts. dyeing, called shibori. Narrated who lived in Turkey from the ers. Today, with more than 120 [email protected] in japanese and English by I 970s until her recent death in looms, Rehwa provides health, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, with 2007. She was honored last year education and housing benefits john Vollmer's new book original music by Andrew Galli. with the George Hewitt Myers for the community. Sally founded Dressed to Rule: 18th Century Runtime: ISS mins. japanese & Award by the Textile Museum, the WomenWeave International Court Attire in the Mactaggart English Language Subtitles. UPC Washingon, DC. Her collection Fund to extend the Rehwa model, Art Collection, with Foreword by 649241845577 $29.95. Order was bequeathed to the Koc focusing on the role of women in janine Andrews, was released from http://www.studiogalli.tv Foundation in Turkey and will the craft (www.womenweavers.org). in October. It is a guide to the or World Shibori Network, be integrated into the Sadberk She hosted the TSA study tour to exhibit of the same name, shown [email protected]. Hanim Museum in Istanbul. The India in Chennai a few years ago at the University of Alberta in Also available from amazon.com, textile collections, an extensive and arranged visits to local artisans. 2007. john is an internationally­ dharmatrading.com, target.com. collection of Anatolian weaving [email protected] recognized curator and scholar in the fields of Asian art, textiles top. 11

WINTER 2008 7 Visual Language of Cloth: Commemorative Handkerchiefs By Flavia Zuniga-West

HE ARCHIVING OF HISTORY The handkerchief was included court embraced the use of snuff The Commemorative Thas taken many forms within the rules and regulations as a daily necessity throughout Handkerchief throughout the centuries, regarding clothing published the 17th and 18th centuries. With the rise of the Industrial beginning with the written form throughout Europe during the With the social attractiveness of Revolution the handkerchief as the primary type of documen­ 16th century, and its use was for­ snuff on the rise, the handker­ became a fashion cornerstone, tation. Painting and sculpture, the bidden for the lower classes. But chief became a major fashion not only because of the social most traditional artistic media, all these regulations were fated accessory for both men and acceptance of snuffing, but also began to archive history through to fail from the start, because women. Larger handkerchiefs because of the invention of new the depiction of battles, sig­ the lower classes loved nothing were required; colors-golden printing technology-the roller nificant individuals, victories, and more than imitating the upper browns, maroons and yellows­ printer and copperplate printer. treaties to show national pride class. The handkerchief provided became very popular and practi­ A massive market for factory­ and respect. Around the 17th a welcomed opportunity for this. cal for their ability to mask the made printed handkerchiefs was century in England, the hand­ Its popularity and use rose during snuff stains that were visible on created with the availability of kerchief became a new canvas the 16th century and peaked in the more traditional white hand­ innovative prints and a variety of upon which historic events were the 18th century. kerchiefs. color options. With copperplate recorded. The handkerchief was During the 16th century, The mention of handker­ printing, the ability to pattern a an everyday object in the 17th the handkerchief gained a new chiefs occurs more frequently fabric surface with dye by simply and 18th century, equivalent in function when tobacco entered in literature during this period. transferring it through the pres­ function to the bumper sticker Europe. England and Holland Shakespeare refers to the hand­ sure of a press onto an engraved of modern times in displaying an were the first to use tobacco for kerchief as a symbol of betrothal copper plate made it possible for individual's personal, political and pleasure, as opposed to its previ­ in his Tragedy of Othello, the Moor any image, including pictures, societal opinions. ously-considered medical uses. of Venice, and this is a significant slogans, maps and flags, to be Sir Walter Raleigh introduced reflection of the handkerchiefs The Handkerchief in printed on paper or fabric. This tobacco to England and made role and importance in the world new technology brought about a Fashion it popular in the court. Tobacco at the time. Shakespeare's inclu­ new role for the commemorative The handkerchief is defined as "A was rarely smoked, but snuff­ sion of the handkerchief in his handkerchief. square article made from any of ing was at the height of fashion. play sheds light on the connota­ The handkerchiefs golden the major textile fibers. It serves Snuffing became so popular that tions and social symbols of the age spanned from 1800 to 1955: as a necessity or an adornment. treatises were published on how handkerchief after the potency of everyone had one everywhere in It varies in size and may be deco­ to take snuff with the appropri­ its class significance decreased. the world. Whereas floral-print rated by the use of lace, a border, ate social grace and skill. The handkerkchiefs were favored design, or monogram." At first among women, men had access the handkerchief functioned as a to a larger selection of designs. class signifier, representing upper They preferred commemora- class wealth, along with other tive motifs, which became small items, such as for example, fab­ symbols of national pride. Images rics, fans, gloves, and hairstyles. and scenes from victories in Over time its popularity grew battles and other current world in Europe and the handkerchief events were now available on became not only fashionable, everyday objects. The handker­ but also an everyday object with chiefs' subject matter ranged historical significance. The first from world political events to mention of the handkerchief as local and regional events. In this a small luxurious article appears way, the handkerchief became during the reign of King Richard personalized and its use was 11(1377-1399). extended beyond the practical. The handkerchief entered The depiction of historic England after gaining popularity events made the handkerchief in France and Italy. The English a unique object, melding its government tried to restrict the utilitarian function with its use of luxury handkerchiefs, roles as an embellished fashion claiming they were extravagant.

8 TSA NEWSLETTER accessory, and ultimately as American Independence. The a communicator of personal British victory in the siege was views. These handkerchiefs one of the strongest sources of had an enduring effect, since national pride during this period. the events depicted lived on in The Commemorative hand­ the minds of the people. Two kerchiefs with their historic pat­ handkerchiefs from England terns or designs, catapulted the provide wonderful examples promotion of propaganda textiles of signigicant events: the into the 19th century. Themes "Handkerchief Commemorating of commemorative subject mat­ The British Naval Victory of ter developed into themes of 1794," designed by William modernity and tradition. Themes Hanson, and the "Handkerchief of empire, militarism and patrio­ Commemorating the Siege of tism were prominent, along with Gibraltar," made in 1782. the leaders and heroes who The "Handkerchief facilitated them. Slogans, words Commemorating The British and songs became iconographic, Naval Victory of 1794" portrays along with color choices that a battle that was very important usually represented the flag of to the British during the French a given nation. The improved Revolutionary Wars. Each corner printing technology of the Though literature has record­ express contemporary social of the handkerchief displays a Industrial Revolution, combined ed the use of the handkerchief and political opinions today, portrait medallion of officers with the ability to convey specific throughout time, the handker­ the handkerchief was the textile involved in the battle. During this messages through clear graphics chief became a timeless storytell­ propaganda medium of its time. period the British feared the rev­ and unambiguous text, made er in its own right as a repository It became an individual flag of olutionary movement in France, the handkerchief a prime con­ of commemorative subject mat­ personal opinion, documenting and thus were exhilarated by this veyor of propaganda as well as ter. Shakespeare's Othello cap­ events as well as the pen or the victory, known as the "Glorious a fashion accessory and a histori­ tured the handkerchief of symbol brush. Through the handker­ First of June." The attention to cal document. As noted earlier, and romance; the handkerchief chief, everyday items became detail; the meticulous care to battles and victories had been itself records its own history as a individualized and proclaimed name all who were involved, documented in various forms, fashion accessory as well as the the intimate and personal views and the series of events that led from the written word on paper social vernacular of the period: of the wearer. to victory clearly evinced the to paintings on canvas capturing political and social history, satires national pride evoked by these the moment of victory, to poetic and opinions. Textile propaganda References handkerchiefs. prose. The handkerchief in the began with the commemora- Atkins, Jacqueline. Wearing The "Handkerchief commem­ 19th century, however, docu­ tive handkerchief's fusion of Propaganda: Textiles on the Home orating the Siege of Gibraltar" mented fame, battles, and victo­ cloth with text and message; it Front in lapan, Britain, and the held vast significance to its own­ ries, while seemingly diminishing developed into various types of United States. Yale University ers. The Great Siege of Gibraltar the seriousness of the issue for propaganda textiles, including the Press, New Haven, 2005. was an attempt by France and the viewer and making the under­ t-shirt of modern times. Just as Bonneville, Francoise de. The Spain to capture Gibraltar from lying message more palatable. the t-shirt and the bumper sticker Book of Fine Linen. Flammarion, the British during the War of Paris, 1994. Braun-Ronsdorf, Margarete. Page 8: England: "Jubilee Handkerchief The History of the Handkerchief Showing Queen Victoria (1819-1901)" c. 1897. F. Lewis Publishers Limited, Cotton, twill weave; roller and engraved roller England, 1967. printed. 71.7 x 73.8 cm. (28 1/4 x 29 in.) The Art Institute of Chicago, Gift of Mrs. Chauncey B. Gustafson, Helen. Hanky Borland. Panky: An Intimate History of the Handkerchief Ten Speed Press, Above Right: England: "Handkerchief Berkeley, 2002. Commemorating the Siege of Gibraltar, 1782:' Designed by William Hanson. Linen, plain weave; copperplate printed. 69.2 x 73.7 cm. (27 Flavia Zuniga-West is a graduate 1/4 x 29 in.) The Art Institute of Chicago, Mr. student in the Museum Studies and Mrs. John Farwell III Fund. Program, New York University. She researched commemorative hand­ Right: Engliand: "Handkerchief Celebrating the kerchiefs as a Museum Education Battle ofthe Glorious First of June, 1794:' 1794. intern at the Art Institute of Chicago Cotton, plain weave; copperplate printed. 55.2 in 2006. x 59 cm. (21 3/4 x 23 1/4 in.) The Art Institute of Chicago, Mr. and Mrs. John Farwell III Fund. lj~~~~~~~~~~~§~i~~~;I~~~&J

WINTER 2008 9 TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA Co-chair, will focus on dynamic of Asian theater Elizabeth Curator Michael Schuster will Ilnl BI ENNIAL SYMPOSIUM Art-Deco-influenced Taisho-style Wickmann-Walczak will discuss discuss the carpets and other kimono from Japan's modern era, the performance-enhancing styl­ Mughal masterpieces in the col­ using the Academy's outstanding ization in the design and function lection. A rug weaver from India collection-the most extensive of Chinese opera costumes. will demonstrate weaving tech­ TEXllWAS CULTURAl. ExPRESSIONS Ho OLUW. H AWAr'1 outside of Japan. The seminar niques. TSA President Carol Bier fromp.2 concludes with an exclusive tour Textiles from the Malay will present superb examples of how this dying Japnese art is of two special exhibitions: "Bright Archipelago and New Guinea Uzbek suzani from Shangri La continuing in a Western venue. and Daring: Japanese Kimonos Indonesian textile experts and relate the conclusions of Leigh Wishner presents a study in the Taisho Period," and "Blue Garrett and Bronwen Solyom the collaborative research team, of Hawaiian textiles which use and White: Indigo-dyed Japanese will discuss the iconography consisting of a curator, a textile words and phrases-both English Textiles." of spectacular examples of the conservator, and a technical and Hawaiian-to enhance visual Lampung ceremonial textiles on assistant. Their collective analysis imagery and transmit concepts Chinese Opera and Southwest display in Hamilton Library on yielded new understanding of specific to Hawaiian culture. Chinese Minority Costumes the University of Hawaii cam­ this needle art. Nazanin Shenasa The exhibition "Writing with pus. Based on their fieldwork will examine the narrative scenes Spirited Textiles ofJapan: Thread: Traditional Textiles of and research, they provide new on silk textiles from Safavid Iran From Country Casual to Southwest Chinese Minorities" interpretations of textile imagery ( I 50 I-I 722) and how they Urban Chic The splendid tex­ at the University of Hawaii that consider ancient legends of established both personal and tile collection of the Honolulu Art Gallery is the focus of this origin, reverence for ancestors, national identity. Midori Green Academy of Arts illustrates the Site Seminar. Chinese art histo­ continuity of lineage, and agriCUl­ will present velvets of the Safavid hidden energy that animates rian and textile curator Angela tural fertility. Hwei-Fe'n Cheah court, building a structural con­ Japanese textiles in three tradi­ Sheng will examine works in will illustrate how the adoption nection between the linguistic tions: indigo-dyed fabrics of the the exhibition and those from and transformation of imported patterns in poetry and the pat­ countryside, bold and daring archaeological finds to articulate motifs in 19th- and early 20th­ terns of color and design in kimono of the 20th century, the relationships of gender, visual century Malaysian metallic-thread Safavid figural velvets. and striking ritual objects of literacy, and visual production as embroidery indicate intersecting rice straw and paper. Barbara expressed in women's script (nu relationships between local poli­ Five Artists Speak of Tattered Stephan, author and researcher shu) and textile work. Collector ties and their engagements with Cultures and Mended Histories on Japanese textiles and paper, Huang Yingfeng will recount colonizers and trading partners. At the Academy Art Center, will discuss shimenawa (ritual experiences from his extensive Jill D' Alessandro, Curator of 'Tattered Cultures," an invita­ straw ropes) and gohei (geometri­ fieldwork in southwest China Textiles, and Christina Hellmich, tional contemporary fiber art cally-cut paper offerings) and will that contributed to his expertise Curator of Oceanic Art at the de exhibition featuring works by conclude with a hands-on dem­ in identifying unique embroidery Young Museum, will discuss the international artists who are onstration. Japan resident Amy stitches. Nancy Doubleday will construction and religious/cul­ TSA members, explores how Katoh, author, researcher, and use baby carriers in the exhibi­ tural significance of selected fiber dominant ideologies of a specific owner of the well-known Tokyo tion to examine the cultural works in the Jolika Collection of time and place tatter the cultural shop "Blue and White," will share and environmental influence on New Guinea art. heritage of the less-dominant both her passion for indigo-dyed the eternal maternal concern and culturally diverse. Exhibition textiles and anecdotes drawn for infant health and well-being Islamic Textiles Shaped royal curator Mary Babcock will con­ from 40 years experience with among minorities of Southwest carpets from the Doris Duke sider the metaphor of mending Japanese dyers and textile artists. China and the Inuit in Canada's Collection at Shangri La are the as a potent model for cultural Reiko Brandon, former curator of Eastern and Central Arctic. At the centerpieces of this Site Seminar transformation. Four other art­ textiles at the Honolulu Academy University of Hawaii Kennedy at the East-West Center Gallery. ists- Frances Dorsey, Lisa Lee of Arts and TSA Symposium Theater, renowned professor

Call to TSA Authors TSA authors can display and promote their publications at TSA's inaugural Book Fair, to be held on the last day of the 11 th TSA Biennial Symposium in Honolulu, Sat. Sep. 27, from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. First priority for space is given to TSA authors who are registered for the Symposium and who meet the deadline. Deadline to reserve a Book Fair space is June 15.

To participate: Email the·following to [email protected]: your name, address, phone number and email address; the title(s) and description(s) of your publications to be displayed; and the name of any organization with which you are affiliated, in addition to TSA. Hawaiian kapa from the collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts (detail).

10 TSA NEWSLETIER Peterson. Denise Ava Robinson Professor of Chinese Art History, Berg Publishers announces Member publications, from p. 7 and Consuelo UndelWood-will University of Hawaii. the launch of its much-antici­ Mark Clayton has developed a speak of their work and address The Colloquium is offered pated publication, The Journal website for his Miao baby carrier how a dominant culture sup­ free to TSA members and will of Modem Craft. Available from collection at www.miaobabycalTi­ presses the voices of others and be from 9:00 am to 12 :30 March 2008, it is the first peer­ ers.com. Please visit if you have how cultural fabrics are weak­ pm in the Yukiyoshi Room at reviewed academic journal to an interest in vintage embroi­ ened by gaps in recognition, cel­ Krauss Hall on the University of provide an interdisciplinary and dered baby carriers made by the ebration, and understanding. Hawaii campus. Pre-registration is international forum in its subject various Chinese minority groups. Don't miss the Site Seminar requested. area. The journal covers craft Comments, questions, and of your choice. Register early! [email protected] in all its historical and contem­ proposals are welcome. porary manifestations. It aims to [email protected] - The 2008 Symposium Ulana' Ana Lauhala examine: Lesli Robertson has launched a Organizing Committee Textile Tour • The connections among iden­ Tom Klobe and Reiko Brandon, website focusing on her research Sep. 3D-Oct. 1 tity, culture and craft practice Co-Chairs within the context of modernity. of Ugandan cultural arts and her LACES ARE STILL AVAILABLE artwork. Images and informa­ • The tensions and synergies Pfor this post-Symposium tour Special Pre-Symposium between the tradition and the tion relating to plaited palm leaf to the Big Island of Hawaii. The Colloquium handmade and new technologies. mats, coiled basketry, and bark tour features visits to little-known cloth will be continually updat­ • The vexed relationships SPECIAL OPPORTUNITY AWAITS historical and sacred cultural A between craft and cognate fields ed, providing a resource for this Symposium attendees sites as well as instruction in (design, contemporary art) and material culture. interested in Chinese minor- traditional Pandanus leaf weav­ how these manifest themselves www.leslirobertson.com ity textiles. Plan to attend the ing, Hawaiian language and local within the institutionalized con­ [email protected] Colloquium presented in con­ culture by a beloved traditional texts of museums and galleries. junction with the exhibition Kumu (teacher). Other activities Ruth Scheuing's recent project The inaugural issue includes "Writing with Thread: Traditional include soaking in an oceanside 'Walking the Line' was launched the following: Articles: "Fiber Textiles of Southwest Chinese lagoon heated by the nearby Nov 30 on 'Digital Threads: as Art and the Hierarchy of Art Minorities" on Tuesday, Sep. volcanic flow, an evening family­ part a web project by five art­ and Craft, 1960-1980" by Elissa 23. This half-day colloquium style lu 'au, and visits to museums ists for the Textile Museum of Auther; "Materials, Skills and provides a summation of the and cultural centers including Canada. The site also has an Cultural Resources: Onta Folk research conducted for the Kawaiokalehua Foundation, extensive archive of earlier exhi­ Art Pottery Revisited" by Brian exhibition. The eight research Kahuwai Village, Kuaokala bitions. www.digitalthreads.ca Moeran; "Sources of Modernity: associates who worked on this Charter School, Uncle Robert's [email protected] The Interpretations of Vernacular project will discuss the outcomes Cultural Center, Dakini Gardens Crafts in Polish Design around of their work and answer ques­ and Retreat, Lyman Museum, I 900" by Andrzej Szczerski; tions from the audience. They Hilo Art Museum and Nihon "The Arts and Crafts Education include: Angela Sheng, principal Cultural Center. For registration of the Brucke: Expressions of curator of "Writing with Thread" and more details, please email Craft and Creativity" by Christian TSA NEWSLETIER and Associate Professor of [email protected] or call Weikop; "Simon Starling: Chinese Art History at McMaster 808/965-9523. DEADLINES University, Hamilton, ON; col­ Crafting the Modern" by Tag lector and curatorial advisor Gronberg; "Statement of Practice March 30 Huang Yingfeng; Deng Qiyao, Five Thousand Years (Some July 30 Notes, Some Works)" by Simon Professor and Dean, School of November 30 Communication and Design, Sun Starling. Primary Text: "Sparks from a Plastic Anvil : The Vat-sen University, Guangzhou, Please send news, Craftman in Technology" by China; Li Qian Bin, Director reviews, listings, and Reyner Banham. and Curator, Guizhou Provincial articles to: Museum, China; Xi Ke Ding, Subsribe today at Karen Searle, Editor Curator, Cultural Palace of http://www.bergpublishers. 1742 Portland Ave. Nationalities and consultant for comlJouma~}{omepage/ The Journal of Modern Craft St. Paul, MN 55104 the Institute of Archaeology and TheJoumalofModemCraftl ISSN: 1749-6772 Cultural Relics, Guizhou; Zhang and receive the journal 3 times TEL/FAX 651/642-9897 eISSN: 1749-6780 Xiao, Director and Associate a year in March, July and [email protected] Edited by: Glenn Adamson, Professor, Institute of Minority November, from 2008 onwards. Victoria & Albert Museum, UK Culture, Guizhou Academy of Special rates for individuals. Please send calendar Tanya Harrod, Royal College of Social Sciences; Stevan Harrell, www.bergpublishers.com listings to Art, UK Professor of Anthropology, Rebecca Klassen, Edward S. Cooke, Jr., Yale University of Washington; rebecca_klassen@ University, USA and Kate Lingley, Assistant yahoo.com

WINTER 2008 11 Other activities include needle covers, and coverings for bed­ Rug weaving was and still is a lace and embroidery workshops. ding. Examples of these embroi­ strong industry among Armenians. deries in ALMA's collection date The collection includes 200 knot­ Wedding Dresses from the mid-19th century to ted-pile rugs, small weavings such Armenian wedding dresses are mid-20th century. The history of as saddle bags, mafrash (storage a very rich and diverse group of this stitch is a fascinating story containers) and kilims (flat-woven the costume collection. A circa- of its travels between Egypt rugs). Kazak and Karabagh rugs 1875 Dikranagert bride's ensem­ and Germany, Cilician Armenia with bold geometric designs and ble features a long-sleeved silk and India. The oldest surviving colors predominate, and most Hidden Textile jacket and matching ankle-length examples of this type of work of the rugs are inscribed with a drawstring skirt. The vibrant can be found in 13th-century date. An unusual silk prayer rug Treasures at the turquoise blue silk satin skirt is Mamluk embroideries. In 2002 made by the orphans of Agin is Armenian Library brocaded in a striped floral pat­ the exhibit "From Hayastan to inscribed with the date 1898 and and Museum tern with metallic threads. In Hindustan" explored the con­ text in Armenian and English. nearby Kharpert (Harpoot), tex­ nections between Armenian and Textile exhibits rotate, allow­ by Susan Lind-Sinanian tile industries producing this type Indian interlaced embroideries. ing opportunities to exhibit new of fabric existed from I 86 I to Very unusual and rare artifacts and introduce themes, ISITORS TO ALMA, THE 1915. The Fabrikatorian Brothers embroideries were made such as the recent exhibition V largest ethnic museum in and Kurkjian family were two of from the cocoon shells of the "Under Cover: Armenian Textiles Massachusetts, are introduced to the industries that made silk bro­ silk worm. This cocoon work of Bed and Bath." Beautiful silk an ancient and rich culture of the cades for local use and export. embroidery was made by cut­ bath wraps, embroidered bundle Middle East. The galleries always ting cocoons in various shapes cloths, bath shoes, and embroi­ include examples of Armenian Needle Lace and to form three-dimensional flow­ dered terry-cloth bath robes were textiles and the vast collections, Embroidery ers, leaves, and birds stitched on displayed in a period-setting like the treasures of Ali Baba, black velvet. In ALMA's collec­ hamam (bath house). are stored in the Textile Center. The knotted needle lace collec­ tion the examples include floral Plans are under way for a Each textile has its own special tion numbers close to 300 items arrangements in a wreath design new exhibition on Armenian story which is documented by and includes doilies, lace used with a space in the center for a regional costumes, to open in the textile curator and her vol­ as trim on clothing, and house­ photograph. The realistic floral­ Spring, 2008. In connection with unteers. Donors relate the often hold linens. Some of the finest shaped cocoons are stitched the exhibit ALMA will host an difficult and treacherous journey examples were made by orphans onto the fabric using sequins and Armenian tea party for textile of their family heirlooms from in the late 19th century using metallic threads in bouillon work. lovers, featuring a tour of the Armenia and the Near East to size 100 cotton threads. Silk exhibit and opportunities to view ALMA. In addition to registra­ thread was also used to produce Other Holdings special collections in the Textile tion, the staff prepares traveling needle lace throughout Historic ALMA's holdings include knit- Center. Researchers and textile and in-house exhibitions, and Armenia (Eastern Turkey). Two ted wool socks in blues, reds and enthusiasts are always welcome. provides opportunities for schol­ of the most spectacular needle greens from all regions of Armenia If you are interested in visiting ars to research the collection. laces in the collection are a silk jabot and a finely-worked large and natural color socks with small ALMA and would like a special collar. Doilies in the collection intarsia motifs in red and green, tour please contact: show a huge range of patterns, popular in the Kharpert region. Susan Lind-Sinanian sizes, and creativity in combining Soft blue and undyed grey mohair Textile Curator the vocabulary of knotted needle textiles from Ankara include Armenian Library and Museum lace stitches. sweaters and shawls produced by of America Embroideries are one of Armenians who were involved in 65 Main Street the largest groups of textiles the process of raising, harvesting, Watertown, MA 02472 at ALMA. Some of the special processing, and stitching the final TEL 617/ 926-2562, ext. 25 items include Marash interlacing, product made of goat hair. [email protected]. Aintab pulled-thread and drawn work, and cocoon work. The interlacing stitch was primarily used in Marash and neighboring Malatia to decorate household items such as pillows, divan

Left: Dikrangert bride's ensemble from ALMA's collection. Photo: Naveed Noor. Right: Knotted needle lace doily from ALMA's collection. Far right: Detail, cocoon embroidery from ALMA's collection. 12 TSA NEWSLETTER change on cotton production, and and donate examples of their The glass-and-brick building ;:::\,.0: l:,.~ ~'-"'::,:';,,:\; :<.i."'.~.; how cotton markets evolved. The work to the museum's collection. designed by Robert AM. Stern .CO.LL'ECTJQ:NS Cotton Museum at the Memphis This museum is part of a Korean Architects of New York will Exchange is at 65 Union Avenue, Instutute for preserving traditional house the center's impressive col­ 'X "YN-EWS )( Memphis, TN. decorative arts and architecture lection of more than 2,300 quilts memphiscottonmuseum.org founded by Prof. Kim Tae Eun, and its international study center ~~ who has turned her family home­ dedicated to the research, preser­ New Museums for stead into a museum and educa­ vation and display of important Korean Folk Arts tion center for floral and other quilts from cultures around the arts related to daily life in pre­ world. In addition to the Ardis and Japan Cloth Clothing From Karen Searle: Two new museums honoring traditional industrial Korea. Robert James Collection of antique Network art forms have opened in Daegu, http://flowerarts. org and contemporary studio art quilts, the collection also includes JCCNet was inaugurated in June, Korea. Both have resulted from ATHM News 2007 and welcomes the partici­ the life-long dedication of their the Cargo Collection of African pation of anyone who is or has founders to studying and preserv­ Renovation. Due to the suc­ American Quilts and the Jonathan been involved in scholarly work ing important aspects of Korea's cessful progress of its Capital Holstein Collection which about cloth andl or clothing in cultural heritage. Campaign, the American Textile includes the seminal Whitney Japan. In July Joyce Denney The Museum of Natural History Museum has moved Collection and an unparalleled (Assistant Curator, Department Dye Arts boasts an impressive from the design phase into the group of Pennsylvania Amish of Asian Art, Metropolitan display of historic and contem­ construction phase of renovations quilts. Museum of Art) arranged for a porary natural-dyed textiles and to its 'Textiles in America" mAl A Virtual Quilt Gallery will group to view a katabira (sum­ costumes of Korea, plus antique core exhibition. In addition, the be available at both the IQSC mer robe) said to have belonged tools and looms, and an exhibit of museum recently received a grant and online at www.quiltstudy.org. to the early 17th-century shogun natural-dyed textiles from around from the Henry Luce Foundation It will provide multimedia, inter­ Hidetada. In addition to its obvi­ the world. Charming miniature to conserve costumes and textile active experiences for visitors of ous historical significance, the process dioramas feature hand­ objects related to this core exhibi­ all ages. Individuals may design robe is an extremely fine and made dolls in traditional peasant tion. A soft opening is envisioned a quilt, inspect details of quilts early example of the stenciled clothing, An international library during Marchi April, followed from the thousands of archived paste-resist technique now known and study center for natural dyes by a series of Grand Reopening images, and videotape their own as komon. In addition to future includes computerized color events later in the Spring. During quilt stories on topics including events in and around New York, analysis. Adjacent is a state­ construction, the Museum is family memories, artistic inspira­ we also plan to gather in the Bay of-the-art dye kitchen with an temporarily closed to the public. tion, technical challenges and Area, Chicago, and the Pacific indigo fermentation room and a The Collections department and historical facts. These web-based Northwest. Ideas for additional school of natural dyeing. Museum the Osborne Library are open by services will allow visitors to meetings are always welcome. founder and curator Prof. Kim Ji­ appointment, and selected pro­ share their experiences via e-maiL An online forum for discussion Hee is credited with rescuing this grams are availale. For more information about the and information exchange is in art form from near-extinction in Special Endowment Fund. As International Quilt Study Center, the works in the form of a wiki Korea. She has organized interna­ a result of the many donations visit www.quiltstudy.org made to ATHM in memory of for our group. For details, contact tional symposia on natural dyeing Digital Threads at TMC leila Wice. [email protected]. since 1991 and has published the textile artist Deborah Pulliam, Natural Dye Journal since 200 I . the Museum has set up an "Digital Threads" is an interactive The Cotton Museum www.naturaldyeing.net endowment fund as an opportu­ Web environment that highlights From Karen Mam: The history With brilliant bursts of color nity for her friends and admirers new digital artworks by Canadian of textiles is as much about eco­ the Museum of Korean Flower to continue to make donations in artists Jennifer Angus, Joanna nomics and technology as it is Arts celebrates the vanishing art of her name. www.athm.org Berzowska, Kai Chan, Ruth Scheuing and Samuel Thomas. about culture and aesthetics. In artificial flower making. It features International Quilt Memphis, TN there is a charming impressive examples of silk and Internationally known for inno­ Study Center opens museum devoted to these aspects paper floral arrangements used vative work that challenges the of cotton. The Cotton Museum in traditional ceremonies and March 30 boundaries of conventional textile has been built inside the old festivities. Distinguished Masters The Grand Opening of the new arts, these five artists' dynamic Memphis cotton exchange, the of the art form from around the quarters for the International projects link to 50 exhibitions and place where bales of cotton were globe present workshops on-site, Quilt Study Center & Museum, thousands of textiles from the graded on quality and staple, and will take place on Mar. 30 at the Textile Museum of Canada. This were bought and sold in bulk. East Campus of the University of interactive project also has an By the end of the 19th century, Nebraska-Lincoln. As part of the online studio for visitors to create almost all cotton went directly or Grand Opening activities, famed their own digital work with com­ indirectly through Memphis, the quilter Nancy Crow will lecture ponents and concepts borrowed world's foremost cotton market. on contemporary quilts. from the five artists. www.digitalthreads.ca The museum's exhibits document Prof. Kim Tae Eun with some of the the role of cotton in the US econ­ impressive displays at the Flower omy, the nature of technological Arts Museum. WINTER 2008 13 paintings dating from the 13th to different museums the 20th century, including hang­ and collections at ing scrolls, hand scrolls, albums the University. and engravings. The Collection, The University valued at over $37M, counts of Calgary, a short among the largest donations ever three-hour hop given to the University of Alberta. from Edmonton, The Government of Alberta has is also home to matched the donation in order a recent textile to establish the China Institute, donation. In 2003, BEYOND COWBOY CULTURE: dedicated to enhancing teaching Dr. Lloyd Erikson RECENT TEXTILE EXHIBITIONS and research activities between donated $1.5M IN ALBERTA MUSEUMS Canada and China. to the Nickle Arts The inaugural exhibition of Museum at the University DRESSED TO RULE: 18TH CENTURY the Mactaggart Art Collection is of Calgary to care for, COURT ATIIRE IN THE MACTAGGART research, and exhibit the COLLECTION "Dressed to Rule: 18th Century Oct. 24-Dec. 15, 2007 Court Attire in the Mactaggart Jean and Marie Erikson Telus Centre for Professional Collection," curated by John Collection. The Collection Development Vollmer. This tiny, precious gem presently numbers close University of Alberta, Edmonton of an exhibition offers a mere to 700 artifacts; most are taste of the riches the collection pile-woven carpets from COLLECTING COMFORT: QUILT holds and the insights its future Turkey, the Caucasus, Iran, CULTURE IN THE ROSENBERG research will proffer. http://www. and Central Asia. There COLLECTION are also some significant Oct. 26 - Dec. 9, 2007 museums. mactaggart.ualberta.ca McMullen Gallery The Department of Human kilims, domestic items such University of Alberta Hospital Ecology, University of Alberta is as bags and cushions, and and Human Ecology Building, home to over 16,000 textiles, embroideries. Much of the University of Alberta, Edmonton garments, and related artifacts. It Collection dates from the has also recently become home 19th century, although PATIERNED PLEASURE: Top: A view of "Dressed to Rule: to the Gloria Rosenberg Quilt there are examples of late 16th­ INTRODUCING THE JEAN AND MARIE 18th Century Court Attire in the Collection. Donated by collec- to 18th-century pieces. ERIKSON COLLECTION Mactaggart Collection:' University Although donation of Sep.21-Nov.l0,2007 tor and dealer Gloria Rosenberg, of Alberta. the collection features 677 the Collection is pending, the The Nickle Arts Museum Above: Victorian Crazy Quilt Top, University of Calgary quilts purchased between 1958 Museum has actively engaged c. 1885 (2006.19.18). Gift of Alvin and 1990, mainly from Eastem in its research and development and Gloria Rosenberg, Costume THE PROVINCE OF ALBERTA IS Canada and the US. The earli- (see TSA Newsletter Vol. 19, No.2 and Textile Collection, Department perhaps best known as the est example is thought to date for further details on the Erikson of Human Ecology, University of Alberta. gateway to the Rocky Mountains, from 1840, and a variety of Collection). "Patterned Pleasure: the starting point of the Alaska techniques, materials, and pat­ Introducing the Jean and Marie will become better known out­ Highway, and home to the infa­ terns are represented in the Erikson Collection" was a major side the province. mous Calgary Stampede. Less Collection. Valued at $500,000, exhibition featuring 66 of the - Michele Hardy well known outside of Western the Rosenberg Collection will finest pieces in the collection. It Curator of Decorative Arts Canada are Alberta's rich cultural be used for study purposes as examined Dr. Erikson's personal The Nickle Arts Museum heritage and diverse museums. well as a resource for local artists approach and rationale to col­ University of Calgary Alberta is also home to some and textile scholars. "Collecting lecting while highlighting current very fine textile collections-three Comfort: Quilt Culture in the research on carpet-making tech­ of which were recently show­ Rosenberg Collection" features niques, styles, and interpretation. 5TH CHEONGJU INTERNATIONAL cased in exhibitions. 25 quilts coordinated by Julia The exhibition was accompa­ CRAFT BIENNALE The University of Alberta Petrov, celebrating the technical nied by a color catalogue and an recently received donations of and stylistic breadth of the col­ ambitious program of talks and FINDING LOST VALUES two significant textile collections. lection. Carefully selected and lectures, including one by TSA CRAFTS: A MODE OF liFE The Mactaggart Art Collection exhibited with captions that juxta­ president, Carol Bier. CREATIVE EVOLUTION DEEPLY AND features more than 700 textiles, pose references to past lives and Perhaps it is the impending SLOWLY (COMPETETIVE EXHIBITION) costumes and related artifacts present realities, it invites further chill of winter that turns Prairie Oct. 2-28, Cheongju, Korea dating from the 10th century, study and reflection. minds to thoughts of brilliant many fine examples of I 7th- and Both the Clothing and color, rich texture, warmth and CONTEMPORARY CRAFT SYMPOSIUM 18th-century Chinese court cos­ Textiles Collection and the comfort. While Albertans are Oct. 3, Cheongju, Korea tumes, as well as an important Mactaggart Art Collection are fortunate to enjoy these three HE 2007 INTERNATIONAL collection of Tibetan costumes. part of the University of Alberta collections and the riches they TBiennale sponsored by These are complemented by Museums, consisting of 35 hold, it is to be hoped that they

14 TSA NEWSLETIER Cheongju City consisted of two found myself returning several this exhibition to bring the work installation by Sonjie Feliciano­ invitational exhibitions, a juried times to this exhibit. of her Western students together Solomon that collapses into a competetive exhibition, a Guest In the international com­ with that of leading Korean fiber small, handkerchief-sized stack of Country exhibition (Italy sent a petitive exhibition, outstanding artists who work with tradi­ silk squares. Sonjie demonstrated stunning exhibit of Venetian glass printed textile works included tional and contemporary pojagi. this feature during the exhibi­ and jewelry), and an exhibit of "Light from East: Sheet Pulsation" Participants included 29 Korean tion's opening. Korean traditional crafts. A sym­ by Feliksas Jakubauskas and ''Tree artists, 24 Western artists who The Korean portion of this posium provided a discourse on Lace II" by Lesley Richmond. have studied with Lee in work­ exhibition was shown at the the future of craft. Tapestry, basketry, and knitted shops and master classes, and Honolulu Academy of Arts in Although Korean artists works were well-represented, but the 12 students from Lee's 2007 August of 2007 as part of a predominated, more than 200 the textiles paled in comparison Rhode Island School of Design Korean arts event curated by artists representing 60 countries to the metal, ceramics, and furni­ Pojagi class who participated in Sara Oka. An exhibition catalog is exhibited contemporary works in ture entries. More Western artists "Blue," an exhibition component available which includes essays by clay, glass, wood, metal, paper, should participate in this well­ of musician Yo Yo Ma's ongoing Oka and Lee. The entire exhibi­ and fiber. The main exhibition, funded competition. "Silk Road Project." tion will travel to venues in Japan "Finding Lost Values," showcased A set of hefty exhibition cata­ The exhibit was beautifully and Europe, and is seeking venues 71 artists in a mix of installations logs from the each Biennale are mounted, filling two floors of the in the US. For catalog or exhibi­ and individual works. Ceramic available from www.ohcj.org museum-one for Korean works, tion inquiries, contact Chunghie works were the most impressive. At the related Symposium one for Western works. A con­ Lee, [email protected]. Works in paper were the most panelists from Korea, Japan, stantly-running DVD slide show The Pojagi Symposium innovative, especially Yun Woo China, and the US endeavored introduced each artist and pro­ featured Korean and US artist/ Choi's "Somewhere I Belong," a to redefine craft for the 2 I st cen­ vided an overview of her work. educator panelists speaking on huge cube assembled from rolled tury. US presenters included the The variety and quality of various aspects of the art form. magazine pages and lit from distinguished critics Arthur Danto the works was impressive. The US presenters included Maria within; Anna Gobel's "Revealed and John Perrault. Korean works ranged from tradi­ Tulokas, RISD; Mary Ruth Smith, III" installation of sliced paper tional usage of color and pattern Baylor University; and Sara Oka, spheres; and Jerry Bleem's group POJAGI AND BEYOND to dramatic departures in materi­ Honolulu Academy of Arts. of stapled paper container forms. als and design. Tapestry, crochet, -Karen Searle I was especially drawn to a wire Oct. 2-28 and paper interpretations were installation by Lanny Bergner, Korean Craft Museum especially inter­ a group of seaweed forms by Cheongju, Korea esting. Kyung Sook Koo, and dimen­ Diverse POJAGI SYMPOSIUM sional fiber works by Adrienne Western inter­ Oct. 4, Korean Kraft Museum Outlaw and Sooman Youn. pretations In a second invitational N OFFI CIAL SATELLITE included pieced exhibition, "Crafts: A Mode of A exhibition of the Cheongju garments and LIfe," contemporary works with a Biennale, this textile exhibition accessories, functional or decorative emphasis bridging Eastern and Western knitted gar­ were intermingled with ethno­ aesthetics was held in the lovely ments by Risa graphic textiles from Africa and nearby Korean Craft Museum. Benson, a Asia, honoring cultural diversity. Pojagi is the Korean term for unique artist's Some stellar collections of tex­ pieced cloths used for wrap- book, "Pojagi tiles were a treat: Plaited belts ping gifts, storing objects, and Book" by Jean from Oceania, raffia bags from for culturally symbolic purposes. Anne Fausser, Cameroun, Iranian embroideries, Korean Fiber artist Chunghie Lee "Shirt Pojagi" and Indian costumes, as well as a has presented pojagi workshops by Robin fine showing of Myanmar lacquer for fiber artists in the US, the Quigley, made work. Some juxtapositions in UK, and Europe, encouraging from a rear­ this diverse exhibit worked well, students to apply the specialized ranged silk shirt, such as contemporary baskets stitching techniques of pojagi to and "White by Hisako Sekijima and rattaan sculpture, installation, wearable Landsape," a sculptures by Jung Myung Taek art, and other media. She curated large sculptural with antique Japanese rattaan; Top: Contemporary pojagi works by Korean artists or contemporary basket forms include (I to r) a work in ramie by Sung soon Lee, works by Gina T elocci and wire cage in paper by Jieun Kim, Jungsik Kim, and Myung Hee Oh. forms by Liang Bim Pim with Center: Indigo Pojagi works by RISD students adorn the antique Chinese bird cages. The walls; in the center is Sonjie Solomon's collapsible silk logic of other juxtapositions was organza sculpture inspired by Pojagi piecing. Bottom: Yo-Yo-Ma draped in a large pojagi hanging (also elusive, but the overall selection shown in center photo) surrounded by the RISD stu­ of objects was fascinating, and I dents who collaborated on this work.

WINTER 2008 15 the Human Hand and Spirit." Jan: The Textile Museum. To Feb. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

l::!';:~ ~ .•' 2-Apr. 30: "Threads of Comfort: 17: "Private Pleasures: Collecting To Mar. 5: "Ed Rossbach Fiber :::.:;~i. ;/~'~~ The Work of Our Mothers' Contemporary Textile Art," Art from the Daphne Farago EXHIBITIONB'" Hands." Mar. 31-Aug. 2: "Media in works by Nick Cave, Lia Cook, Collection," features 35 works Costume: Fantasy Set Loose." Louise Nevelson, Jon Eric Riis, alongside historic examples illus­ www.lacismuseum.org Ed Rossbach and Cythia Schira. trating Rossbach's sources of To Feb. 17: "Ahead of His Time: inspiration. To Mar. 23: "Walk San Jose Museum of Quilts The Collecting Vision of George This Way," footwear pieces placed & Textiles. To Mar. 23: "Marian Hewitt Myers." Feb. 15-Sep. 18: throughout the galleries to illustrate Clayden: The Dyer's Hand," "The Finishing Touch: Accessories their relationship to other works of United States curated by Melissa Leventon. from the Bolivian Highlands." Apr. art. www.mfa.org www.sjquiltmuseum.org 4-Sep. 18: "Blue," features blue textiles from Greco-Roman and Armenian Library and ARIZONA Pasadena Museum of History. pre-Columbian tunic fragments to Museum, Watertown. Through Bernal Gallery, Pima Community To Mar. 31 : "The Purse and the contemporary work by Hiroyuki Spring, 2008: Highlights from the College, Tucson, Jan. 22-Mar. 7: Person: A Century of Women's Shindo, Maria Eugenia Davila and Collection." almainc.org "Land, Art and the Sacred: Three Purses." www.pasadenahistory.org Eduardo Portillo. TEL 202/667-0441. Perspectives." Works by DY Begay www.textilemuseum.org MINNESOTA (Navajo tapestry weaver), Gabriella Pacific Asia Museum, Pasadena. Textile Center of Minnesota, Possum Nungurrayi (Australian To Jan. 21 : "Rank and Style: FLORIDA Minneapolis. To Feb. 23: "A Aboriginal painter), and Claire Power Dressing in Imperial China," Florida Institute of Technology, Common Thread," member Park (American fiber artist). explores wearing and use of woven Melbourne. To Jan. 25: "Bead­ exhibit. Mar. 7-Apr. 12: "Beads of and embroidered rank badges. work and Fiber Arts from Whimsy." www.textilecentermn.org CALIFORNIA www.pacificasiamuseum.org Cameroon and South Africa." Design Museum, University of www·fit.edu Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Califomia, Davis. May 15-Jui. 13: COLORADO To Jan. 27: "The Jack Lenor "Fashion Conscious: Designs that Denver Art Museum. Apr. ILLINOIS Larson Studio: Part III, Mark will change the world one garment 13-Jui. 6: "Gee's Bend: The Pollack." To Mar. 2: "NUNO: The Art Institute of Chicago. at a time," clothing and sustain­ Architecture of the Quilt." Textiles of the 21 st Century," To Mar. 2: "The E. M. Bakwin ability from eco-friendly textiles www.denverartmuseum.org highlights 20 years of the innova­ Collection of Indonesian Textiles." to the re-evaluation of industrial tive Japanese company's work. To www.artic.edu manufacturing. CONNECTICUT Apr. 13: "Veiled Communications: designmuseum. ucdavis.edu Wadsworth Atheneum, Head Coverings from South Asia." INDIANA Hartford. Feb. 23-Jui. 13 : "Making Feb. 9-Jui. 13 : "Larsen Design Indianapolis Museum of Art. De Young Museum, San a Splash: American Beach Studio: Part IV, Paul Gedeohn." To Summer: "Hats of Africa: From Francisco. To Sep. 7: For Tent and Fashions, 1850-1920." www.artsmia.org Trade: Masterpieces of Turkmen www.wadsworthatheneum.org Asante to Zulu." More than 50 tra­ Weaving," rugs, bags, and tent and ditional headcoverings representing MISSOURI animal trappings from the muse­ 30 groups from across Africa. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA St. Louis Art Museum. To Jun. um's collection, plus embroidered TEL 317/923-1331. www.ima-art.org I: "Missouri Made Quilts, 1850- mantles worn by women of three National Museum of African Art. To Jan. 27: "The Art of Being 1940." Mar. 2-May 26: "Quilts Turkmen tribes. MARYLAND Tuareg," the historic and evolv­ in a Material World: Selections www.thinker.orgldeyoung Baltimore Museum of Art. ing culture and arts of the Tuareg from the Winterthur Collection." Mar. 12-Aug. 17: "Meditations peoples of Mali, Niger, and Mar. 21-Jun. 8: "A Stitch in Time: The Mills Building, San on African Art: Pattern," features Algeria. Mar. 12-Sep. 2: Images of Needleworking, 1850- Francisco. To Mar. 14: "Innovative over 70 diverse works including "EI Anatsui: Gawu." africa.si.edu 1920," drawings and paintings Weaving: Contemporary Fiber textiles and adinkra dye stamps. depicting women engaged in vari­ Art," includes work by Virginia www.artbma.org ous facets of needlework. Davis, Lia Cook, Christy Matson, National Museum of the American Indian. To Aug. 3: www.slam.org and Deborah Corsini, among MASSACHUSETIS others. Curated by Margot Blum "Identity by Design: Tradition, Fuller Craft Museum, Brockton. Schevill. Change, and Celebration in NEBRASKA Native Women's Dresses." Apr. 5-Jul. 20: "Marjorie Durko Robert Hillestad Gallery, Puryear: Between the Lines ... Palace of the Legion of Honor, www.nmai.si.edu University of Nebraska, Lincoln. Woven Notes and Memorabilia." San Francisco. To Feb. 17: "Marie Feb. 18-Mar. 12: "Adaptation, www·fullercraftmuseum.org Antoinette and the Petit Trianon Renwick Gallery, Smithsonian Transition and Evolution," work by American Art Museum. To Xia Gao. Mar. 24-Apr. II: "The at Versailles." wwwfamsforgllegion Massachusetts Museum of Jan. 21 : "Going West! Quilts and Art of Shibori: Untied Treasures." Contemporary Art, North Community," the role of quilts and Apr. 21 -Sep. 5: "Celebration Lacis Museum of Lace & Adams. "Fransje Killaars: quiltmaking for women on the Threads of Robert Hillestad: New Textiles, Berkeley. To Feb. 2: Installation: Figures, Colors First." frontier. americanart.si.edulrenwick Configurations." www.textilegallery. "Needle Lace: Bom of Thread www.massmoca.org and Air, Stretching the Limits of unl.edu

16 TSA NEWSLETTER Museum of Nebraska History, Museum at FIT, New York. To The Design Center, Philadelphia WASHINGTON University. To Apr. 6: "Rummage," Lincoln. To Oct. 27: "Quilting A May 7: "Exoticism," 250 years of Tacoma Art Museum. To installation by Susie Brandt. to Z," quilts that include a pattern exoticism in fashion, from the age Feb. 17: 'Ties that Bind: Works www.philau.eduldesigncenter or other unique element associ­ of colonialism to the rise of multi­ by Pacific Northwest African ated with a letter of the English culturalism and globalization. Feb. American Quilters." Philadelphia Museum of alphabet. 2-Apr. 19: "Madame Gres: Sphinx www.tacomaartmuseum.org www.nebrashahstory.org of Fashion." www.jitnyc.edulmuseum Art. To Mar. 9: "A Passion for Perfection: James Galanos, Gustave Tassell, Ralph Rucci." To Mar 30: WISCONSIN Museum of Arts and Design, NEW MEXICO "Costume and Textiles: Recent Design Gallery, University of New York. To Mar. 9: "Pricked: Museum of Indian Arts and Acquisitions from A to Z. " To Wisconsin-Madison. To Feb. 3: Extreme Embroidery." Culture, Santa Fe. To Apr. 6: Jun. 29: "Precious Possessions: "Crafting Kimono." Feb. I3 -Apr. www.madmuseum.org "Spider Woman's Gift," classic The American Craft Collection." 6: Design 2008." Navajo textiles. To Jan. 7, 2009: Through summer: "Imagining www.designgal/ery.wisc.edu National Museum of the "Native Couture: A History of Cathay: 18th- and Early 19th­ American Indian, George Gustav Santa Fe Style." Century Chinoiserie Textiles and Heye Center, New York. To July www.indianartsandculture.org Embroideries from the Collection." International 27: "Listening to Our Ancestors: www.philamuseum.org The Art of Native Life Along the Museum of International Folk CANADA North Pacific" includes over 400 Rosenwald-Wolf Gallery, Art, Santa Fe. To May II: "Gee's ceremonial and everyday objects. University of the Arts, Philadelphia. Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. Bend Quilts and Beyond: Louisiana www.nmai.si.edu Mar. 7-Apr. 5: "Contemporary To Feb.: "The Charm of Rococo: Bendolph, Mary Lee Bendolph, Korean Fiber Exhibition," in con­ Femininity and Footwear in Thornton Dial and Lonnie Holley." Memorial Art Gallery, junction with the symposium the 18th Century." To May: To Jan. 4, 2009: "Needles and Rochester. To Mar. 16: "Wild by "Materiality + Meaning." "Chronicles of Riches : Treasures Pins," tools and techniques for Design" quilts. mag.rochester.edu www.uarts.edu from the Bata Shoe Museum." weaving, lacework and needlework. To Feb., 2009: "Beauty, Identity, www.international{olhart.org Snyderman-Works Galleries OHIO Pride: Native North American Philadelphia. Feb. 1-28: "Ed Bing Footwear." Cincinnati Art Museum. To NEW YORK Lee, Fiber Artist: A Passion for www.batashoemuseum.ca Feb. 7: 'Tiffany Jewelry." Feb. 16- Cooper-Hewitt National Design Exquisite Detail." Mar. 7-Apr. 23: Jun. I: "Masterpiece Quilts from Museum, New York. To Apr. 6: "Fiber Biennial." Textile Museum of Canada, the Shelburne Museum." Jun. 28- "Multiple Choice: From Sample to www.snyderman-worhs.com Toronto. To Mar. 2: "The Blues." Sep. 21 : "The Arts of Kashmir." Product," sample books as tools To May 18: "Between the Sea and www.cincinnatiartmuseum.org Lancaster Quilt and Textile for marketing or recording designs the Desert: The Many Cultures of Museum. To Dec. 31 : "Rags to and techniques. Feb. Is-Sep. 28: North Africa." Apr. 23-Jan. 2009: Kent State University Museum. Rugs: Pennsylvania Hooked and "Campana Brothers Select: Works "Battleground: Afghanistan War To Feb. 17: "Charles James." Handsewn Rugs." from the Permanent Collection." Rugs," images of war following the To Jun. IS: "Native Americans www.quiltandtextilemuseum.com Mar. 7- Jul. 6: "Rococo: The 1979 USSR invasion. through the Prism of Culture." To Continuing Curve, 1730-2008," www.textilemuseum.ca Aug. 31: "Mood Indigo," traditional Wayne Art Center. Mar 1-29: exploring Rococo style and its and contemporary works in indigo. "AQATS RE: View," a selection continuing revivals. TEL 212/849- from five years of "ArtQuilts Musee du Costume et du TEL 330/672-3450. 8400. www.cooperhewitt.org a~ the Sedgwick." Apr. 4-May Textil du Quebec. To Mar. 16: www.hent.edul museum 10: "ArtQuilt Elements," juried "A Day in the Life of Maggy M.: Metropolitan Museum of Art, exhibition. www.wayneart.org Michele Provost, Contemporary New York. To Apr. 13: "blog. OREGON Embroidery." Mar. 27-May 25: mode: addressing fashion." Museum of Contemporary RHODE ISLAND "Broder Notre Histoire." Visitors are invited to respond Craft, Portland. To Mar. 23: Rhode Island School of Design www.mctq.org online to recent costume and "The Living Room." To May II: Museum, Providence. Feb. 22-Jun. accessory acquisitions. May 7-Sep. "Framing: The Art of Jewelry." The Nickle Arts Museum IS: "Evolution Revolution: The I: "Superheroes: Fashion and www.contemporarycra{ts.org Calgary. To Apr. 26: "Cent:al Arts and Crafts in Contemporary Asian Textiles." Fantasy." www.metmuseum.org Fashion and Textiles." To Jun 17: www.ucalgary.cal - nichle PENNSYLVANIA "Nuance in Nature: Birds and Arthur Ross Gallery, University Flowers in Japanese Textiles." ENGLAND of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia. To TEL 401 /454-6500. Victoria and Albert Museum Mar. 16: "Beyond Boundaries: London. To Feb. 17, 2008: "O~t Contemporary Fiber Art." www. SOUTH CAROLINA of the Ordinary: Spectacular upenn.edulARC Charleston Museum. To Apr. Craft." To Mar. 30: "Central Asian 18: "Clothes to Dye For: Colorful Ikats from the Rau Collection." Textiles from the Charleston May 13-0ct. 26: "The Story of Embroidery from the series, A Day Museum Collection." the Supremes from the Mary in the Life of Maggie M by Michele www.charlestonmuseum.org top. 18 Provost on view in Quebec.

WINTER 2008 17 Wilson Collection," performance Indianapolis Museum of Art, The Textile Museum, Tours costumes. Aug. 3-Nov. 23: IN. Feb. 28: "A New Look at Old Washington, DC. Feb. 7: "Crafting "Fashion V Sport," explores the Rooms: The Renovation of the Design: Recent Innovations in PUCHKA Peru Textiles/Folk creative and fluid relationship Met's 18th-century American Textiles," Matilda McQuaid. Art/Market Tours Apr. IS-May www.textilemuseum.org between fashion and sportswear. Period Rooms," Amelia Peck. Mar. 9; Oct. 3-0ct. 24: Puchka has Sep. 27-Jan. II, 2009: "Cold War IS: "Dress as Concept: Curating a threefold mission: to guide you Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto. Modem: Art and Design in a Fashion at LACMA," Sharon S. into the heart of Peru's remark­ Feb. 17: "The Four Indian Kings." Divided World 1945-1970." Takeda and Kaye Spilker. able artistic heritage; to experi­ Apr. I: "Forbidden Shoes: Fear www.vam.ac.uh www.imamuseum.org ence the creative lives of the art­ and Footwear in Renaissance ists through hands-on workshops; Italy." Apr. 13: "Moccasins and Sainsbury Centre for Visual International Quilt Study and to promote awareness of the Music as Geographical Origins Arts, Norwich. Jan. 29-Jun. I: Center, Lincoln, NE. Mar. 30: extraordinary textile and folk art of First Nations." Apr. 16: "Cloth & Culture NOW," exhibi­ Contemporary Quilts, Nancy communities in Peru. Information: "Ceramic Boot Vessels: Fashion tion of international contempo­ Crow. www.quiltstudy.org [email protected] and Symbolism from the Ancient rary textile art with 35 artists www.puchhaperu.com from 6 countries. TEL 01603 Minneapolis Institute of Arts World." www.batashoemuseumca Lectures. Jan. 24: "Contemporary 593199. www.scva.ac.uh The Weaving Cultures of Bali Japanese Textile Design," Chad Textile Museum of Canada and Flores, Indonesia Jul. 17- Patton. Apr. 27: "Floral Imagery in Lectures. Feb. 6: "Textile THAILAND 30: A Textile Tour with Threads Textiles and the Visual Arts," Lotus Seminar: North and Central The Jim Thompson Art Center, of Life. Learn about the weav- Stack and Mary Carroll. African Textiles," with curators Bangkok. "Weaving Paradise: ing traditions of Bali and eastern www.artsmia.org Natalia Nekrassova and Roxane Southeast Asian Textiles and their Indonesia, and experience hands­ Shaughnessy. Feb. 8: "Artist Talk: Creators," curated by Linda S. on the arts of ikat tie-dyeing, Museum of Arts and Design, Dorothy Caldwell." Feb. 20: Mcintosh. New York, NY. Feb. 21: "An backstrap loom weaving, batik, "Lecture: Buseje Bailey," on the www.jimthompsonhouse.com Evening with Artist Sonya Clark." and dyeing with natural indigo­ retention of African elements in www.madmuseum.org blue and Morinda-red. In Bali and Diasporic art. Mar. 28: "Material Virtual in central Flores, you will meet Witness Lecture Series: Sarat Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. members of the weavers' coop­ www.fiberscene.com To Feb. I: Maharaj.," UK-based South African Feb. 7: "Behind the Seams: The eratives supported by Threads of "FiberScene Honors the American cultural theorist speaks on textiles Inside Story of Being a Fashion Life. Register by Mar. 15,2008. Artists" highlights American exhib­ as expressions of cultural transla­ Designer," Paola Quadretti. Mar. Information: Sara Goodman itors at the 12th International tion and globalization. Registration: 6: "Explore Rugs and Carpets sara.goodman@va/ley.net Triennial of Tapestry in L6dz, 416/ 599-5321, ext. 2221. from the MFA's Collection," Carol www.threadsoflife.com Poland. Feb. I-Apr. IS: "Latvian Bier. Mar. 12: 'Tongan BarkcIoth: www.textilemuseum.ca Fiber Art." Cultural Authenticity and Textile Odyssey Tour to Women's Agency through Ngatu Workshops Sumatra and Sarawak. Aug. Lectures Pepa," Ping-Ann Addo. Apr. 3: 26-Sep. 12: Visit textile artisans in "William Morris and Company's De Young Museum, San Fran­ May 16-Jun. 29, 200S: Fibers villages on two remote islands in 'Greenery': The Story of an Arts cisco, CA. Textile Arts Council and Surface Design at The the South China Sea. In Sumatra, and Crafts Tapestry," Malcolm Lectures. Feb. 9: "Enfolding Prague Institute's International Indonesia, visit the matriarchal Rogers. www.mfa.or.g History and Flux: Sumba Textiles Studio, Prague, Czechoslovakia society of the Minangkabau who with Susan Brandeis and Vita weave songhe~ the shimmering through Modern Times," Jill Asian Study Center, Georgia Forshee. Mar. 22: "Design and Plume, held in collaboration with cloths woven with metallic supple­ State University, Atlanta. Apr. 5: North Carolina State University. mentary weft yarns and Batak Pattern in the Textile Arts of Tale of Genji Millennium Lecture: Central Asia," Carol Bier. Experimental approaches with weavers who create ceremonial "Color, Design and Rituals of fiber structures and materials. TEL 415/750-3627. tac@famsforg cloths such as the ulos ragihidup or the Heian Court (794-1185 CE) Czech artists will also participate 'soul cloth' on backstrap looms. In of Japan," Mr. Sachio Yoshioka. Florida Institute of Technology, in the workshop. Information: Sarawak, Borneo (Malaysia) see Information: Junco Sato Pollack, Melboume, FL. Uncommon [email protected] Iban weavers, renown for their [email protected] Threads annual textiles celebration. pua. whose complex asymmetri­ May 31- Jun. 15, 200S: cal ikat designs come to master Feb. 21: "From Industry to Art: Museum of International Folk Weaving and Design in weavers in dreams from the gods. The Philadelphia Museum of Art's Art, Santa Fe, NM. Feb. 3: Dr. Norway at Vesaas Farm in Vinje, The tour ends in Kuching in time Textile and Costume Collection," Leslie King-Hammond, Dean Telemark. This vadmel cloth work­ for the WEFT (World Eco Fiber Dilys Blum. Feb. 22: "Dressing the of Graduate Studies, Maryland shop is taught on a working farm, Textile) Forum. Tour Leader: Mary Surrealist Woman: Elsa Schiaparelli Institute College of Art, on the where mountain streams power Connors. For information contact: and Her Contemporaries," Dilys quilters of Gee's Bend. the fulling mill. Instructors: Carol Serena Lee Harrigan Blum, luncheon symposium with www.intemationalfolhart.org haute couture exhibit and silent Colburn, Ingebj0Tg Vaagen, Eli TEL 415/666-3636 auction. www.fit.edu and Olav Vesaas. For information: textil([email protected] TEL 3191273-2390 [email protected]

18 TSA NEWSLETIER Mar. 6-8: MATERIALITY + Oct. 18: TALKING CLOTH: production record, demonstrated MEANING. Fiber and Material NEW STUDIES ON excellence in teaching Fibre at Studies in Contemporary Art and INDONESIAN TEXTILES. the post-secondary level for a Culture, The University of the Arts, The Fourth R.L. Shep Triennial minimum of 3 years, and dem­ Philadelphia, PA. Speakers include Symposium on Textiles and Dress. onstrated administrative experi­ Gerhardt Knodel, Lydia Matthews, Los Angeles County Museum of ence and committee service. The Sandra Alfoldy, Sun-hak Kang, Art. International scholars discuss successful candidate must also Hyuk Kwon, Chunghie Lee. their recent research and dis­ have strong critical/theoretical www.uarts.edu/fiber_symposium coveries regarding the textiles of knowledge and understanding of Indonesia. contemporary Fibre Practice, gen­ Jan. 26-27: THE CULTURE OF Mar. 14-15: GREAT [email protected] eral knowledge of all aspects of CLOTH. Sainsbury Centre for DESIGNERS, Museum at FIT, the discipline and specific exper­ Visual Arts. Norwich, UK. New York, NY. Annual fash- Nov. 1-10 (tbe): 7TH tise and technical skills in one Conference related to the exhibi­ ion symposium in conjunction INTERNATIONAL SHIBORI or more of the following areas: tion "Cloth & Culture NOW." with a major exhibition on SYMPOSIUM (lSS'08). The World weaving and fibre structures; www.scva.ac.uk Madame Gn§s. Speakers include Shibori Network will hold its 7th fabric printing and surface Andrew Bolton, BOUDICCA, ISS in France, with components exploration; dying processes; Jan. 26: RANK & STYLE: Caroline Evans, Pamela Golbin, scheduled in three cities: Provence, POWER DRESSING IN Patricia Mears, Valerie Steele,. Lyon and Paris. Hosted by the fibres and mixed media. Skill IMPERIAL CHINA. Pacific Asia Registration: museuminfo@fitnyc. Musee du quai Branly KNITTING PAST, PRESENT AND es are being designed to facilitate performance; a statement of Organized by the Royal Textile FUTURE. Knitting in fashion, cul­ travel. For updated information, your teaching philosophy and Academy of Bhutan. Introduction ture, and technology, Winchester please email [email protected] knowledge of the discipline; and to and instruction in the ancient School of Art, University of TEL 510/ 527-3432 a vision statement discussing art of Bhutanese weaving, includ­ Southampton, England Information: FAX 510/ 527-.0231 future directions of fibre educa­ ing fiber preparation, dyeing, A. f. [email protected] tion. Submit applications to: weaving and loom preparation; Alberta College of Art + Design exhibitions of textiles and crafts, Jul. 15-23: ETHNIC Attention: Human Resources fashion show, field trip to the COSTUMES AND NON- MATE­ 1407 14th Avenue NW National Museum in Paro and the RIAL CULTURAL HERITAGE Calgary AB Canada Textile Museum in Thimphu, and PRESERVATION. Special sec­ T2N 4R3 talks by experts. Dr. Susan S. Bean, tion of the 16th International FAX 4031284-6236 co-curator and co-editor of the Congress of Anthropological E-MAIL [email protected] exhibition and book From the Land and Ethnological Sciences, held of the Thunder Dragon: Textile Arts in Kunming, Yunnan Province, A detailed job description is of Bhutan, and Curator of South China. The main topics are: posted on the TSA website. For Asian and Korean Art, Peabody I) "Ethnic Costume Studies in more information on the college, The Fine Arts Department of Essex Museum, will lead the semi­ China and Around the World;" please visit www.acad.ca. The Alberta College of Art + nar. For details, contact 2) "Research and Preservation of Design welcomes applications Mr. Kuenga Lhendup, Royal Satin Brocade, Embroidery, and JOIN IN TSA L!STSERV for a full-time Fibre Instructor Textile Academy of Bhutan Traditional Printing and Dying discussions. To subscribe, commencing in the fall semester TEL +975 2 328128, Techniques." Information: email majordomo@s;ue. TEL +975-17601414 or 2008. The successful candidate Professor Yang Yuan edu. Leave the subject [email protected] will have an MFA or equivalent TEL 86.010.64742103 line blank. In the message www.royaltextileacademy.org degree or an equivalent combi­ bwg.yy@ 163.com write: subscribe tsalist your nation of education and experi­ http://www.icaes2008.org email address. Within the ence, a significant exhibitionl day you will receive email.

WINTER 2008 19 TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA 11TH BIENNIAL SYMPOSIUM

2008

TEXTILES AS CULTURAL EXPRESSIONS HONOLULU, H AWAI 'I

"Contemporary Quilts;' an exhibition of Hawaiian quits at the Mission Houses Museum, one of the venues for the post-Symposium tours to be held following the 11th TSA Biennial Symposium, Please note TSA's new Sept. 24-27 in Honolulu. address and phone numbers See page 1 for a detailed listing of Site Seminars to be held during the Symposium. Registration listed on page 3 information will be mailed soon to TSA members. Program highlights will be featured in the Spring TSA newsletter, and details will be posted on the TSA website, www.textilesociety.org.

TSA Newsletter Nonprofit Org. P.O. Box 193 U.S. Postage Middletown, DE 19709 PAID New Wash. OH 44854 Permit No. 54 Change Service Requested

DATED MATERIAL

Photographic details courtesy of: Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology, Brown University Estate of Lillian Elliott RfsDMuseum