I Believe Rio Is the Funnest City in the World

Ten years ago I put together a guide for my foreign friends from Chicago and Vienna to read before arriving in Rio, so they could have the best possible time, in case I were out travelling.

They loved it, so I published it. I have been updating and improving it ever since.

I hope this demo version helps convey all the thought and care that went into letting you know where and when to be at every moment of your trip.

If you like this demo, get the full version, it will be the best investment of your trip to Rio.

Sincerely, Cristiano Nogueira, author [email protected]

Intro Day Tours Cultural —69 Music —94 Food —139 Around Brazil Brazil’s Talent —6 Downtown —70 Samba —96 Churrascarias —140 10 Rio Commandments —10 —37 Tour of a Favela —72 Pagode —96 Origins ofFeijoada —141 —179 Ipanema —38 Salvador —180 Where to Stay —11 Big Dude Tour —73 Chorinho —97 Popular Lunch Dishes —142 Pão de Açúcar —40 Pantanal —182 Lodging Options —12 Santa Teresa Tour —74 Brazilian Funk —97 Lunch Suggestions —143 Joatinga & Barra —42 Bonito —184 Stuff Near Ipanema —13 Silly Pastimes —75 Brazilian Pop (MPB) —98 Great Restaurants —143 Copacabana —43 Natal —186 Stuff Near Copa South —14 Giving Back —76 Bossa Nova —98 Soccer Game —44 Amazon —188 Stuff Near Copa North —15 Rock —99 Christ & Santa Teresa —46 Foz do Iguassu —190 What to bring —16 Forró —99 Stuff to Try Lagoa & Botanical Gardens Rio Stats and Keys —18 Rainy Days —79 —48 Rio when it’s Raining —80 —155 Brazilian Pride —20 Street Foods —156 After visiting Helicopter Tour of Rio —51 Cooking Lessons —81 Events —100 General Tips —22 Bar foods —158 “Do-It-All” 1 Day Tour —52 Street-Food Tour —82 Carnival —105 Emergencies —24 Desserts —159 Rio —192 Off-Zona Sul —54 Photo hunting —83 New Year’s Eve —107 Cook moqueca —193 Travel Health Tips —25 Stuff you never ate —161 Ipanema Pub Crawl —84 Brazilian Sayings —194 Safety tips —26 Drinks —162 Copacabana Pub Crawl —87 Brazilian Ideas —195 Things You’ll Need —28 Adventure Nightlife —109 Fruits and Juices —164 Business in Brazil —196 Water safety tips —31 Occasional Parties —128 Sports —59 Moving to Brazil —197 What to do at the Beach —31 Gift Ideas —89 After hours —130 Hang Gliding —60 Your Carioca I.Q. —198 Fashion Crimes in Rio —32 Brazilian Fashion —90 Around Rio Scuba —61 Pay Less Than Locals —200 Getting Around —33 Surfing —62 Brazilian Art & Design —92 Gay Rio —132 —166 What’s the deal with? —34 Pampering Options —93 Ilha Grande Rock —63 GAY NIGHT —134 Off-Road Biking —64 Búzios —168 Kayaking —65 Ilha Grande —170 Tijuca Peaks —66 ANGRA —171 KiteSurf —67 Petrópolis & Itaipava —172 Paraty —174 Honeymoon Ideas —176

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After io is split into 4 zones: the Int´l Airport RSouth Zone, the North Zone, the West Zone and the Downtown area (Centro). As far as general City of Rio at a Glance tourism is concerned, the only zone Bus station of interest is the South and the Downtown area. Downtown Maracana Regional Airport rom a tourist’s point of view, Fthe Downtown area is a zone North Zone of interest due to its historic and Lapa cultural buildings (museums, he North Zone is mostly Gloria Tpoor neighborhoods, with churches, colonial architecture very little appeal for tourists. Tijuca etc.) Although very active during the day, the downtown With the exception of the Santa Teresa Tijuca Forest, Maracana and area (with the exception of Lapa the Salgueiro samba school Flamengo and a few happy hours), is shady rehearsals, no other visits are at night. necessary. West Zone he West Zone includes Botafogo Sugar Loaf and Teverything after Barra da Tijuca (commonly referred to as Urca Barra). Barra is a new middle- Corcovado upper class neighborhood Humaita with tons of shopping areas (Christ Statue) and nightlife. It is, however, mostly modelled on the average American suburb, with large South Zone avenues, strip malls and ample Leme he South Zone is the richer parking. Unless you have never Tand prettier part of the seen an American suburb in your city, with dozens of hills and life, we recommend limiting Gavea mountains, the lagoon (Lagoa) your visits here to Pepe Beach, Lagoa Copacabana and marvelous beaches. It is Nuth dance club, Joatinga beach also safer than other areas, but and Barra Shopping mall. care must be taken in the slums covering its hills. It is in the south zone where most of your day tours and nightlife will take Leblon Ipanema place, so this is the area where we most recommend staying.

ão onrado Barra S C Map not drawn to proportion Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After 10 Rio Commandments Stuff Near Ipanema The commercial zone is along Visconde de Piraja Street. The “young” beach spot is within a block’s radius of the #9 lifeguard station (Posto 9). Ipanema is 1 Do stay in Zona Sul note thinking that the beer guy, good reason, don’t try to drive extremely safe, day and night. bus or taxi will have change. around. One wrong turn and Trust us on this: most of your Whenever at a restaurant, shop you can end up in the slums, day and nightlife will revolve or bar, pay with the R$50. Five being fined by the cops, or stuck around the neighborhood of R$10 bills can be worth more in rush hour traffic. Even if it Ipanema. Try to stay as close to than one R$50. seems more economical, stick it as possible. to taxis.

5 Don’t try to do supe r ma ket on t walk around 2 D ’ on t try the peppers cultural stuff in Barra 8 D ’ with jewelry I beg you! Your stomach is

Even though Barra is a nice

Ladies and Gentlemen! This ba r

not used to the chemistry in neighborhood it is, in summary, is not your turf, so no matter Brazilian peppers. Even if f i tness a taste of American life. We snack i o pat how much clout you have at you can handle them, your / do, however, recommend Pepe publ i c home, it is not worth shit here. intestines are bound to react in ju i ce beach and Nuth dance club. Necklaces, rings, expensive an explosive way for days after, watches, bracelets etc. are not ruining your trip. to be worn except when you are 6 Don’t stay far away

off to a swanky event or club. r ental agency

because it is cheaper Otherwise, keep it down low. 9 Avoid the hills. Okay, you have a Brazilian b i ke

Most of Rio’s slums are on the t r avel connection you met back home hills, so with the exception of 3 Don’t argue with or on the Internet. He is the one Santa Teresa, Cosme Velho and cops who begged you to come, and Joatinga, hillsides should be you did. After arriving, you avoided for your own safety. mach i ne cente r

The cops here are instructed realize he lives in bumble fuck. to take action, as opposed to Only go on trails with a tour What to do? Stay at his place cash discussing who is right. It guide (see page 74). f i tness and please him rather than enjoy doesn’t actually matter who the practicality of staying in is right, who stole what from 10 Don’t assume the

Ipanema, as this guide suggests? shop whom, or if you didn’t know she Or should you tell him that you weather will stay nice gea r

was under 18. If they want to

want to explore Rio by yourself hangout arrest you for anything, let them, The weather in Rio, as in most gay during the day (while he works beach then call your consulate. If they tropical cities, can change or goes to school) and that you want to fine you for something drastically within an hour. If it’s two can hook up at night? Go you did, usually for a driving sunny, don’t waste your time for the second option. You will

offense, (a good reason not doing indoor tours like museums r e sto waste time and moolah on cabs to drive), then it is up to your or shopping. hangout d r ug traveling to and from his place. slickness to implore them not to

give you a ticket. 7 Don’t try to drive beach Don’t rent a car and try to figure

out Brazilian road signs. Ok, 4 Get change for a 50

believe this: not even Cariocas . 3 cafe . 276

. 177 ir

The surest way to end up in hell ir (people from Rio) know how to ir j . P cu rr ency exchange P . P

is to walk around with a R$50 i sc

Summer Clothes with the world by using the chips in R$50 or R$100. It is constantly hot and humid roaming service from Brazilian IDs and Cards carriers. If your phone has a during the summer months, Passport when you may not even want to built-in camera, Student ID wear a pair of pants, let alone a even better: sweater at night. Ladies stick to take and send Driver’s License pictures and shorts, skirts, summer dresses, Tourist Visa tank tops (vests) and T-shirts. videos to make all your friends 2 Credit Cards (Visa & Men stick to sandals, Bermuda Mastercard) Call your card shorts and T-shirts. instantly jealous. (To company and let them know learn how you’ll be travelling to South Winter Clothes to activate America, as they sometimes freeze your card on seeing Winter (June to August) in your phone in Brazil, see page 28) irregular activity, till you call in Rio feels like mid-May in the to explain. northern part of the US and Europe, or like the beginning Budget and Money of April in the southern part What you don’t need of the US and Europe. Dress Cheap spending (eating at the to bring accordingly. During a cold night hostel, few restaurants, no hard- in mid winter, temperatures drop core clubbing, basic tours): Towel or swimming gear (you’ll to 60F, 15C US$75 a day. look silly, buy it in Rio instead) Average spending (restaurants Snorkel or Hawaiian shirts and street food, hostel or Winter jacket Equipment cheap hotel, most of the tours): Sunglasses US$130 a day Laptop Cheap watch All-out good living (nice Black socks Digital camera hotel, restaurants, all the tours, (the smallest clubbing, shopping, massages Before flying to possible) etc): US$250 a day Brazil Disposable You should bring half of your Call the closest Brazilian camera (for street events) budget in cash and have the other half available on your consulate and check with them Anti-diarrhea medication credit card. about the required vaccines Sunscreen and after-sun and visas. Check the listing of consulates worldwide at: Cap Petty Cash www.brazil.org.uk Travel-socket adapter Joatinga Beach (pg. 36) If you are in a group, instead of each person paying for his or GSM mobile phone her beer, taxi, entrance and other small stuff, why not choose A GSM ready cellular phone someone to carry the petty cash. will help you stay connected Each morning, each member

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Emergencies Travel Health Tips A visit to Rio is no trip to Disney World. It is a big city, with its fair share of problems. Should you get into an emergency situation, be sure to follow these procedures to get things back to normal. for it when you feel confident Beware of vegetables if the town ll or njured tomach ache obbed Insurance I I S R about its quality and freshness. you are visiting is far from farm The most common Although Rio has some free You ate the peppers, right? Or First say your prayers if you When in doubt, ask to visit the areas, like it’s in the middle of a recommendation I hear from medical assistance offered by was it the street caipirinhas weren`t physically assaulted or kitchen (Brazilian law gives all dense forest, desert or savannah. the state, most 1st world visitors with the questionable ice? We attacked. Second, hop over to the doctors that deal with foreign customers this right). During intense street festivals, may not like the response bad mouth it so much, people Tourist Police Station in Leblon patients is that everyone opt for manufactured foods and time Brazilians have become get curious about them...oh (Av. Afranio de Melo 159 or tel: travelling should have traveller´s drinks, as the street food might accustomed to. Long waiting well. What my buddy, who was 3399-7170). They may not be health insurance. This foresight Common medicines be as old as the festival and the lines and lack travelling through India, used able to recoup your belongings, helps you get attended at • Headache (Dor de cabeça) - sellers` storage procedures for of English to do whenever he got the runs but can issue a police report for hospitals that may come up with Aspirin (aspirina) such high demand may be too speaking would be to mix a finger of insurance purposes and issue an excuses as to why they don’t • Hangover (Ressaca, Mal lax. attendants vinegar with a finger of water alert to patrol cars to better serve want to treat someone who is estar) - Hangover pill (Engov) may worsen and gulp it down. That would that area. “promising” they will pay later. In situations where the food your medical kill whatever was wreaking • Fever (Febre) - Paracetamol quality looks doubtful, like problem. havoc in his stomach. He would (Paracetamol) interstate bus-stations, opt for Arrested Your Pills snacks from major brands like Luckily there is later drink some yogurt to • Nausea (Enjôo) - Dramamine Take your special medication in Nestle, Kraft and others. A safer a clinic devoted replace his intestinal flora. Soon Were you a bad boy (or girl)? (Dramin) sufficient quantities for slightly bet may also be cakes, breads to working he would drink a few coconut Or were you set up by “the • Pain (Dor) - Dypirone more than the length of your and the like, that don’t involve with tourists waters (agua de coco) to man”? In either case, nothing (Dipirona) or Paracetamol rehydrate. Has worked for him like a slick lawyer to squeeze stay, should you get stranded in meat. 24 hours a day Rio due to a volcano in Europe • Diarrhea (Diarréia) - Floratil and in several and others, but naturally this is you out of trouble. To find the something I can`t recommend best one for your needs, contact or whatnot. Your medication (Floratil) - Imodium (Imosec) languages may not exist here, or may have Vaccines (English, because I’m not a doctor...just a your consulate (listed in the back • Cut (corte) - Band-Aid stricter control. If it is very strict Recommended for Brazil: Spanish and trick I heard. cover). (Band-Aid) or controversial medication, hepatitis A and B, Tifoid, Yellow French). • Sprain (Contusão) - Ice get your doctor’s prescription Fever, Rabies, Tetnus, Mumps. They have the necessary (Gelo) Rip Offs Lost Passport translated to Portuguese, to Yellow fever is obligatory in infrastructure or partnerships • Bruises (Hematomas) - Heat Should you get tricked by any Should you lose your passport avoid getting stuck in customs Amazonas, Mato Grosso, Mato with other clinics to cure what pack / cold pack (Compressa establishment in Rio, whether (it shouldn`t have left the hotel or by the police. Grosso do Sul, Amapá, Pará, ails you, from simple colds to água quente/ Compressa água a tampered taxi, a restaurant in the first place), be sure to Make sure the medication has Roraima, Rondônia, Acre e minor surgery. fria waiter or a bait & switch shop, contact your consulate, as they your name on it and bring it with Goiás. Should you need to, they can • Vitamin C effervecent contact me. The only things can produce a quick fix. Check your carry-on luggage. Carry your health plan card with also visit you at your hotel. tablets (Cebion) that boil my blood are poor the back cover for a list of local you at all times. After being What`s more, they work with customer service and paying consulates and numbers. ating treated keep the records and most international health plans for dumb movies. I live for this E Tips: receipts for your refund process. and traveler`s insurance. and will try to use all my god- Take it slow: even though it may Missed Flight Clínica Galdino Campos like-powers to put them in their all look beautiful and well made, Wash your hands regularly. Overslept? Unless you are here Av. Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, 492 Galdino Campos Clinic place. different cultures have slightly Only drink bottled water. / 2º andar during high season, you may different water, oils, climate Contact: Ronaldo Galdino Campos [email protected] Go easy on seasonings and street Copacabana – Rio de Janeiro – RJ Rua NS Copacabana 492 be able to extend your stay for and seasonings. When all these fried foods. Telefone: + 55 21 2548-9966 Tel:2548-9966 US$75 or so. Check the list at change at the same time, your Contato Dr. Ronaldo Galdino Campos:+ Always remember to keep the www.galdinocampos.com.br the back for the local offices of body may not know how to When it looks sketchy, stay 55 21 9605-3349 Member of the International Society of Emergency Contacts Card (see the major airlines. away from fruit and vegetables www.galdinocampos.com.br Travel Medicine adapt in time. back cover flap) in your pocket. and of course, mayo and cream. E-mail: [email protected] Seafood is great, but only go

s a general rule, gringos are s a general rule, you want to dress down. The grungy look will do you Asomewhat untouchable by Get the hell out after any Agood. Since you are on vacation, you don’t need to worry about your drug-lord rules. Your chances of dangerous situation: if you reputation. Here are some general rules to abide by to better guarantee your being kidnapped, held hostage, manage to stop a pickpocket safety: etc are a lot smaller than that in his tracks, get out, as his of an upper class Brazilian. partners may come after you. The small fish, such as young Baseball Caps pickpockets and out-of-town Dead give-away. criminals, take their chances. Another very common technique is for the crook to rob you while on a bike. They can snatch your Hair cut Beware on empty streets just cellular phone, necklace or purse Leave the “bed-head” hair style for the trendier clubs. as much as at overly crowded while passing by at high speeds. events. The new trend in pick pocketing (some new Eastern- Accent If you are passing a shady European techniques are now When in a crowd of dubious types, keep your talking to a minimum. arriving in Brazil) is to create a character on an empty street at situation in a crowd where your night, wave an eager “Hi! I’m hands are distracted while they over here!” to your imaginary Shirt friend who’s a block away. This go for your pockets. T-shirt instead of a Hawaiian shirt, also leave the Brazilian soccer team shirt should throw a monkey wrench for when you get back home. in his scheme at the last second. A good example is the Russian mustard trick, where they put Money & Ids mustard on your head in the Don’t trust the cops’ intelligence subways. While you check to see or integrity: if you get pick- Don’t bring too much or too little money, as they will shake you down till what the heck is on your head, pocketed, say “what the hell” they get something. Don’t carry a passport, nor all your credit cards or more they go through your pockets. and go on with your tour instead than R$200. Bring one major CC and one form of ID: student or state ID or of getting caught up in reporting driver’s license. Don’t trust your pockets, keep them zipped or buttoned up. incidents and other red tape. Another common trick here in Not only is that an exercise in amera Brazil is the “fight breaks out” futility, but it will eat up your C trick, when right in front of you time and mood. Like a friend Don’t walk around thinking the strap will guarantee your camera’s safety. there is a scuffle in the middle of mine said after getting $200 of a crowd. While everyone pick-pocketed in the north of Bermudas shorts and flood pants is being pushed away from Brazil, “F*ck it! I consider it a the scuffle and while you are small tourist tax” and went back You can wear bermuda shorts, but wear the styles the Brazilian boys wear, holding someone who is being to drinking. Not the best point of not what’s in style back home. Flood pants never caught on in Rio, so forget pushed onto you, someone view as a long-term philosophy, it. behind you (sometimes a but it worked fine for that week. woman) goes through your pockets. Sandals Don’t be a hero: if you are held Wear tennis shoes or flip-flops instead. And, Lord, no black socks! at gun point, slowly pass over

Black socks with Brazilian flag canga Flip-flops at night bermudas and sandals (sarong) Rio is not Club Med... put Yup, muggers love it when you on shoes like everyone else, wear those, cause they can rob specially if you are going to you, then indirectly sell the restaurants or clubs. sarong back to you, how’s that for irony? Towels at the beach The sun will dry you faster than etting around Rio is easy: Subway tour guides, making them an The Latest italian the towel, so why bother? just get in a cab! 1 out of excellent alternative to guided G Check every 3 cars is a taxi (or so it group tours. fashion the Rio seems). What’s more: it’s cheap. Marcelo Esteves Motel Flip-Flops in Big Map You can go from downtown 9984-7654 or [email protected] attached public to Ipanema for about R$30 to the (US$17). From Ipanema to ans back of V Barra for about the same. The You are not in France. this book. Another option, if you master a meters have 2 rates (bandeiras): little Portuguese or even some “1” for daytime (6am to Spanish, is to ride the vans on Safari hat 9pm) and “2” for nighttime, Frescão the beach routes. For R$6, you weekends, holidays and the Come on! Brazil has already A safe and comfortable option can go from Ipanema to Barra. It hasn´t caught on yet in Brazil, month of December. The “2” been discovered! 512 years ago! if you are going to or from the Just signal a van that has the so it will just make you look bandeira charges 20% more than downtown area is to take the name of the neighborhood you scandalous. the “1”, so check. Just remember “Frescão”, an air conditioned to ask the taxi driver if he knows Backpack at the beach passenger bus that serves how to get to where you want to What the heck have you got in the business commuters. Crocs go before you step in “voce sabe there that is so important? Black The best way to look clueless. Unless you are under 8 years chegar no …. “ pronounced “vo- socks? Go to the beach with Leave them at the motel. old, you`ll just look silly. say sa-bee shay-gar no [insert your beach clothes and that`s it. (Personal opinion) place here]…”. If he doesn’t are heading to, shuffle your way It’s the beach experience, not an razilian soccer team know, hand him your hotel card in and tell the driver when he expedition. B shirt or take the next cab. should let you out. Of course, if Pants without butt- you are in a group of 4, you are Only during World Cup games. Large waterbottle crack They go for R$7 and run more better off taking a cab. Car Rentals There are juice stands and bars frequently during rush hours. Driving a rented car has become on every corner...do you really Argentinian soccer easier with the advent of the Buses prefer your warm water over team shirt GPS. It does become helpful Chauffeur Service The other, less recommended, a freshly blended iced mango Threat to your existence. if you are planning on visiting transportation method are the juice? The classy option is always a the Off-Zona Sul attractions chauffeur service, available public buses. Although a lot (see page 54), or if you plan on outside most 5 star hotels. cheaper, these take longer (up Bean necklaces on men Just not sexy... visiting Buzios, Petropolis or Although their rates start at to 55 minutes from downtown Paraty (cars are not allowed on That’s so 90s... and not yet retro. R$80 an hour, some chauffeur to Ipanema, where a cab would Ilha Grande) (see page 170). Wait 7 years. services are also accredited take 20 minutes). Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After What’s the deal with?

Everything being so Flanelinhas? Reckless driving? Those mini Young people hanging goddamn pricey? These are guys that watch your Since most Brazilians bought “Washington memorial out in gas stations? car for a few R$. You pay them their license, or forgot most The dollar and euro are weak monuments in the Gas stations have become a of the rules and regulations, ” and the Brazilian Real is strong. R$2 and they don’t kick your gathering place for different everyone drives like its Super middle of the side Most of the world’s wealthy are rear view mirror off; fair and groups to hang around, blast Nintendo. parking their money in Brazil, square. Each one owns a block walk. music and sip beer, probably expecting the high interest rate and is responsible for whatever because they are one of the few happens to your car. Since that local banks offer, while being Lack of tribes? convenience stores open late at somewhat unware of the real is where they will permanently night. Where are the punks? The rate of inflation. So, large influx work for a few years, should nerds? The hippies? The heroin multiplied by the difference in something go missing, you can addicts? The emos? The rastas? currency strength and you get a find them the next day and open The lack of luxury a can of whoop-ass. Dog TV? Rio doesn’t have visible factions standard chesseburger costing cars of any of the above. It is mostly ? US$20, just about everywhere. These are rotisserie chicken preppies, jiu-jitsu fighters (pit Brazilians get hit with 120% What´s worse is that apartment ovens, referred to as television Running stoplights at bulls), artsy-fartsy (neo-hippies) tariff on imported cars, so a prices having skyrocketed to for dogs. For around R$18 you and normal people. You can find BMW325e goes for about Manhattan prices, to a point after midnight? can get diced chicken to go. more tribes in São Paulo. US$80K. where US$500k won´t buy you For safety reasons, most people slow down at red lights, check anything decent in Zona Sul and. Poor people in rich US$2500 won`t rent you a 3 for traffic, then speed up again, Shanty towns on the What’s the deal bedroom apt in Ipanema. as stopping at a red light in the areas? hills everywhere? with consuming beer dark can be dangerous, due to They come to nicer Those are placed by the city car robbery. neighborhoods to beg from the to prevent pig-parkers from anywhere? Beach vendors? rich (makes sense), but donation parking on the sidewalk. I know, isn’t it great? Just like the street vendors, the is not recommended unless beach vendors tend to offer Street vendors they have an obvious condition. more practical stuff like snacks, everywhere? Many of them are in a condition Excessive waiters? ice cream, beer or sunglasses. Selling mostly stuff made in to work but choose to beg. Don’t Given that the minimum wage Forget the hammock guy. China, street vendors account for give them anything, as this is R$670 (US$320 per month), about 1/3 of Brazil’s work force. doesn’t help anybody. If you most businesses can afford a want to help, check page 76 on large staff to improve service. This type of business is illegal Why do the poor have the views, how to give back. Unfortunately, most of this staff but frequently overlooked, as while the rich are locked down is under-trained, which lowers most escape the regulating street to the flat areas? A law from the quality. cops. when Brazil was still a colony is still in use, prohibits anyone from building on the hillsides, Hot women by the side allowing Cariocas to have a of the road green view from wherever they ? live. In the last 40 years, the hills These tall, hot prostitutes are have been overtaken by the poor state-of-the-art transvestites or however, and the government transsexuals. Don’t fall in love. has had little luck in stopping them. Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After

Relax: Ipanema Don’t order a beer just yet. Butt- The first thing anyone arriving in Rio should do is sit on Ipanema beach for at least a few hours. But of watch instead. course, you can’t just “go” to the beach - there is a ritual to follow. Estimated Total Time (T): 8h Estimated Total Cost (C): R$ 130 Best on: Sunny Weekday You are in one of the world’s most blessed cities and you are on vacation. Now you can order a beer. Ask for a beer holder (isopor) as the heat can warm up your beer before you get half way through it.

sandwiches in Rio, using his 5 mail own “chimi-churi” sauce. E Don’t add the peppers though. Walk across to Visconde and check your email at the closest internet cafe. Be sure to visit the updates section of our site: 1 rocking caipirinhas, opt for www.rioforpartiers.com/updates.html Beach Gear 3 panema each I B Uruguai`s tent just to the left First, buy yourself some fashion You can now go to the of the Posto 9 life-guard You can try most of the stuff the conscious swimming gear, beach. If you want the post. Tell the beach tent beach vendors have to Window Shop Visconde as Brazilian beach fashion is 4 After the beach, wash off the hip young spot, look vendor you are a Rio For offer, with the exception Check out the shops along different from other countries: sand at the lifeguard station and for ”Celebridade” tent Partiers reader and you of the shrimp, which Visconde de Piraja, walking swimming trunks are wide on A by the big tall coconut would like special treatment. tends to go bad under head over to Benkei (sushi), the side and bikinis are medium- counter-traffic till sundown. tree between Joana Angelica He will find a chair for you the sun. B small triangles with horizontal Garota de Ipanema (steak Cut through to the beach and Street and Maria Quiteria. upon request (R$4). Plunk hopefully catch the sunset in straps. If you want to try something and fries) , C Delírio Tropical If you want to eat good down and let the view sink in. different, go to the “Uruguai” D Ipanema, drink in hand. Head food and drink world- beach tent. He makes (salads) or Big Nectar back to the hotel for a late siesta. 2 Breakfast Mate tea w/ lemonade: A must probably the best chicken (sandwiches) for a late lunch. Go for a juice and “pastel” (see page 161) at any of the juice bars on Visconde de Pirajá street. 1

A D C 5 B 4

3 2

“Celebridade” Life-guard Uruguai tent post 9 tent Ipanema girls Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Relax: Joatinga & Barra Beaches Relax: Soccer Game Joatinga is one of Rio’s most charming yet hidden, beaches. It is only visited by locals during weekends, Wimbledon to tennis, Madison Square Garden to basketball, Maracanã to soccer. An extremely exciting or weekdays in January, when surfers are on school vacation. experience. Estimated Total Time (T): 4h Estimated Total Cost (C): R$ 60 Best on: Sundays Estimated Total Time (T): 7h Estimated Total Cost (C): R$ 120 Best on: Sunny Weekend people independently stopping cast early, due to the stone walls 1 reakfast Wild Beaches to wholeheartedly pray for their B around Joatinga, so once that teams. Moments after “Amen”, A suco de mamão happens (usually around 3pm), you’ll be playing “Simon Says” (papaya juice) with a get back up and call a taxi from for the next two hours: a little kibe (Arabic beef snack) the nearest phone booth, or ask guy acting like a maestro sitting or misto quente (toasted ham & a Brazilian with a cellular phone all the way down there will be cheese sandwich) at your closest to dial 2434-0553 and call a cab showing 10,000 fans what to do, juice bar. for you. sing and shout. This is called an 2 Joatinga 3 Pepe Beach “organized fanclub” since that Hop into a cab and ask for faction of fans all have their Joatinga. Although the cab fare chants, stadium-sized flags and may be expensive (Ipanema sneaked-in fireworks. The most RZ to Joatinga=R$29), it will common chants involve the make sense once you check “judge’s ass” or “mother”. Once out the view from up above. a goal is scored everyone has an aracanã, formerly the never had. orgasm and the chants get re- energized. If you see the beer Mworld’s largest stadium, Breakfast is officially capable vendor, get 2 at once as they If you also want to visit other of holding 120,000 First you will need a strong are scarce. After the game, stick famous, distant blue water people, yet it has seen breakfast to line your stomach. together to go home. beaches, like Grumari, Prainha over 150,000 at some It shouldn’t be beer, as you´ll be and Guaratiba, we suggest you popular soccer finals. pounding them in the next 30 get a guided tour. Jungle Me minutes. offers a hike to deserted beaches, Tailgating Take the cab to Praia do Pepe and saves you money on taxis. Walk down the precarious path SPECIAL DEAL After the good boys from Brazil in Barra. Once there, sit on Jungle Me FOR OUR READERS to the beach. There are one or CHECK FRONT FLAP the sand and for the next few Contact: Thiago tel: 4105-7533 Expedition pick you up from two beach tents to offer you [email protected] hours check out the hard-bodied your hotel, you’ll be taken to chairs and drinks. They charge www.jungleme.com.br outside the stadium where you more than others because of the people around you. Price: R$180pp for 9 hour tour (4 hours hiking) should get yourself a T-shirt of Note: Maracanã is undergoing remote location. Shadows are the team you will be rooting remodelling, and wont be ready

IK for (Flamengo, Botafogo, before 2014. All games are Fluminense and Vasco are the being played in other stadiums better ones from Rio). Try the around Rio. food from the vendors, even the To go with experienced guides filet-meow, (meat kebab possibly and a safe, large group of young made from street cats...) The air Soccer Game travelers (great mingling), contact: is charged, as enthusiasm and SPECIAL DEAL As soon as you get to Rio, Brazil Expedition FOR OUR READERS 2 ask around to see if there is a hope are conjured on both sides. Contact: Eduardo CHECK FRONT FLAP game going on and if it will be Maracanã tel: 9998-2907 [email protected] 3 www.brazilexpedition.com good: meaning big teams or Once inside, you’ll experience Price: R$80 = Soccer game with championship finals. This will tickets & transfer. Every Sunday, oc- arra oatinga Rio at its most religious: 100K+ B J be an experience like you’ve casionally on Wednesdays. Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Sports Hang Gliding & Paragliding Rock Climbing

Hang-gliding and paragliding are by information about the climate far our highest recommendations, conditions. There are various as Rio is one of the few tropical factors that determine whether cities in the world where you you can fly and this analysis is can fly over the city and land on included in the service. Don’t a beach. book your your flight for the A tandem flight is an last day of your trip in Rio, if instructional flight, where you weather conditions don’t allow, can get a taste for the sport you may end up losing out without needing any previous on the chance to fly over the experience. On this course, each Marvelous City. person gets a personal trainer, grade A equipment and service To learn more about the sport, RioCharm Tours within an hour. Contact: Max contact RioCharm Tours, who SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS Regardless of the weather, work solely with professional tel: 8894-9857 CHECK FRONT FLAP you should call as soon as you instructors and have safety in [email protected] www.riocharm.com.br arrive in Rio to ask to be on mind first and foremost, a huge Price: Tandem Hang or Paraglide standby and request for more differential. lesson = R$320 with free transfers for RFP readers.

io is the largest urban rock from a picture of you climbing Rclimbing center in Latin up to the Christ the Redeemer America. Statue, with the rest of Rio in the background! There are many mountains and Crux Ecoaventura SPECIAL DEAL hills to climb, specially the two FOR OUR READERS Contact: Marcelo CHECK FRONT FLAP most famous postcards of Rio: Tel: 3322-8765 or 9392-9203 Sugar Loaf and Corcovado [email protected] mountain. more tours: www.cruxecoaventura.com.br From R$ 330 pp for a day climbing tour on Sugar Loaf. Rock climbing tours are From R$ 390 pp for a day climbing available to everyone tour on Corcovado mountain. moderately fit, even if you´ve never climbed before.

The safety harnesses, ropes and helmets help guarantee you go back home in one piece. What’s more, imagine how cool it would be to make a poster

Tijuca Peak reforestation started in XIX for lunch, which you brought century. in your backpack, then head to his dramatic mountain is a the waterfall down below, for well-known Rio landmark The Jungle Me hike is designed T a revitalizing shower (bring and also an under-explored for us, the regular people, who swimming gear) before heading tourist attraction. Why not workout when guilt mounts up, back home. try the unique experience of so the hike is relatively light, Jungle Me reaching the summit on your picturesque, educational and Contact: Thiago SPECIAL DEAL entertaining. The guide knows FOR OUR READERS own two feet? tel: 4105-7533 CHECK FRONT FLAP how to make a walk in the Discover the nature and history [email protected] woods very interesting, going www.jungleme.com.br of the park, its amazing scenery, over the history of Brazil and Price: Tijuca Forest (full-day) at Tijuca experience nature and adventure how that pertains to this urban Peaks and Waterfalls: R$180 pp (tour as you hike through peaks and forest (one of the largest in the duration:9h; hike:5h) waterfalls with landscapes Tijuca Forest (half-day) at Pedra world). He will drive you up not featured in classic tours. Bonita: R$130pp (tour duration:4h; halfway up the Tijuca mountain, Understand the history of hike:1,5h) to where the hike will start, What to take and wear: water, food/ Brazil and learn all about the then you`ll hike for 2 hours till snacks, backpack, walking shoes, coffee farms that used to exist you get to the peak. You`ll stop swimwear, towel there, in its golden years before

SPECIAL DEAL cean kayaking is one of the Crux Ecoaventura FOR OUR READERS Price: R$230pp, including instructors, Obest ways to explore Rio’s Contact: Marcelo CHECK FRONT FLAP equipment, insurance waiver and beautiful coast and enjoy unique Tel: 3322-8765 or 9392-9203 snacks. [email protected] views of the city and its forested more tours: www.cruxecoaventura.com.br mountains. You’ll start your trip at Praia Vermelha, where Sugar Loaf Mountain is located and paddle for one hour to the Cotunduba Island, a few miles off-shore. There you’ll stop for snacks, swimming and snorkeling, appreciating the beauty of Rio from a totally different viewpoint. Back at the beach you can shower and change at the Kayak Base. No previous experience is required. Snorkeling equipment, hotel pick-up and drop-off are all included.

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Sports Cultural: Downtown Although Rio has a lot of history and cultural attractions, we have narrowed down our recommendations 7 Biblioteca Nacional to include only the essentials, doable in a 2 day tour of the center. Est.Total Time (T): 5h per day Estimated Total Cost (C): starts at R$ 100 Best on: Cloudy/Rainy Day As far as museums, churches The Monastery of Saint and historic areas go, our Benedict boasts one of the most Day 2 recommendations are to spend elaborate baroque style churches 5 Escadaria Selarón a day or two visiting as many in Latin America, with tons of of the following as quickly as gold work. possible (1 hour visits): Lunch One of the largest libraries in 2 Esch Cafe: Rua do Rosario 107 the world, the National Library Day 1 Delirio Tropical: Rua Assembleia 36 stores over 4 million works. 1 Museu de Arte 8 3 Centro Cultural Teatro municipal Moderna Banco do Brasil

The 80 meter Selaron stairs are 3 composed of tiles from all over the world and a true work of art. Over the past 20 years the Chilean-born creator Selarón painted different cartoons on 4 ceramic tiles, the most famous The Modern Art Museum is in being the pregnant favela Inspired by the Paris Opera, with itself a work of modern art by women (see page 72). one of Brazil’s great architects the outside walls inscribed with Eduardo Affonso Reidy, also the names of some of Brazil’s responsible for the Flamengo park 6 Catedral most famous artists, the eclectic project (together with Burle Marx) style Municipal Theatre has The Bank of Brazil Cultural and the Catedral (Cathedral). recently been restored to its Center hosts different former beauty and shit. 2 Mosteiro de São technological, art and cinema events throughout the year. Bento Guided tours 4 Paço Imperial 8 You can’t really “wing” a The Imperial Palace, now cultural tour anywhere, and Rio 7 transformed into an art museum. is no different. You visit and see 6 it all, but where’s the context, background, significance and anecdotes? We recommend: Lisa Rio Tours Tel:2237-4615 or 21-9894-6867 www.lisariotours.com 1 The City Cathedral is another [email protected] one of Reidy’s works. Although skype: lisa.rio.tours unattractive from the outside, Price: R$160 pp for 5 hour tour of inside it has very powerful Centro and Santa Teresa or R$110 pp for 4 hour tour of Centro 5 lighting and acoustics.

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Sports Cultural: Tour of a Favela Cultural: Big Dude Tour One of the most unforgettable tours you will ever take! The tour through a Rio de Janeiro favela shows how This 5 hour tour is a fantastic opportunity to see many sides of Rio de Janeiro. many lower class Cariocas happily live in minimal, yet organized conditions. A must for everyone. Estimated Total Time (T): 5h Estimated Total Cost (C): R$ 95 Best on: sunny or partially cloudy weekdays

ouring a Favela is obliga- two communities. You’ll get the As a great primer, rent “City of razil expedition offers this Ttory if you want a better chance to visit the commercial God” (Cidade de Deus), and Btour that summarizes a lot understanding of Brazilian so- area and the handicraft center in Elite Squad (Tropa de Elite) of the good parts of Rio: First ciety. The tour is very safe and Rocinha and the local school in and the sequel, chilling movies stop: not voyeuristic at all. There are Vila Canoas, as well as taking around the control by the drug different operators proposing in some impressive views over lords in the favelas in the past. different types of tours in favelas the city. But don`t be misled as it has São Conrado Beach and they are not all the same: The tour changes the reputation changed drasically: Most favelas The hang-gliding landing area some offer a closer and deeper of favelas, all too often related have now been pacified by the on Sao Conrado beach where the analysis of the social aspects to violence and poverty. Don´t mayor`s new plan to re-integrate hang gliders land after they take involved. worry, you are very welcome them. off from Pedra Bonita. Most tours introduce you to there and your presence is Favela Tour Contact: Marcelo Rocinha, the biggest favela in important to help them finance Tel: 3322-2727 [email protected] Tijuca National Park Brazil, next to the affluent area local schools. If you want a www.favelatour.com.br of São Conrado. Most are three- better understanding of Brazil, Price: Starts at R$80pp for3 hour tour. hour tours, partly walking and don´t leave Rio missing this partly driving through these unique experience. Fabio Sombra

From there, the mini-bus will take you to the Tijuca National Park for a glimpse of this Dogg shot his famous video famous Atlantic rainforest. “Beautiful”. To finish your day, why not opt to be dropped off at Christ Statue Sugarloaf mountain (ticket not included) in time for sunset. From the forest you will take the bus and arrive at the Christ The BrazilExpedition Redeemer Statue. The biggest Contact: Eduardo wow factor of the day. Tel: 9998-2907 [email protected] more tours: www.brazilexpedition.com Selaron Stairs Price: from R$95. Monday to Saturday. Includes hotel pick-up and entrance to Lastly a visit to the Selaron Christ Statue. stairs (see page 79) where Snoop

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Sports What to do in Rio when it’s Raining 1-Day Brazilian Cooking Lessons ike to cook? Want to play Laround and learn some Brazilian recipes to show off to your friends back home? Take one of these 4 hour cooking classes with Cook in Rio. Learn it all and of course, eat it all. Simone, the instructor, focuses not only on the techniques and ingredients, but on introducing Brazilian culture through food. A) Feijoada menu: Pork meat and black bean stew, rice, collard greens, oranges, farofa, rice), accompanied by caipirinha, pork rinds and brigadeiro for dessert. oqueca menu SPECIAL DEAL B) M : Fruit Brazil FOR OUR READERS be enough for a lifetime of Fruit Tasting Sessions CHECK FRONT FLAP Contact: Cris Tel: 8894-9857 showing off. Batida de coco drink, fried outh America is the origin of www.fruitbrazil.com [email protected] cassava, shrimp moqueca with the biggest variety of fruits Your options of dance lessons rice and farofa, followed by S are: Samba (Samba de Pe), in the world. Coconut, passion Dance Lessons coconut manjar for dessert. fruit, avocado, pineapple, Ballroom samba, Zouk (a new, These lessons only include cocoa, açaí, custard apple, star ou can either sit around more sensual Lambada) and ingredients that can be readily fruit, guava, cashew to name waiting for the sun to come Forro. Y found in the US or EU countries. but a few... There are literally out, or you can go learn a few Centro Cultural Casa Rosa dance moves! Really! Just call contact: Rodrigo Cook in Rio SPECIAL DEAL hundreds of them and dozens are FOR OUR READERS and schedule private lessons 8877-8804 or 2557-2562 Contact: Simone CHECK FRONT FLAP part of everyday Brazilian life, tel: 8761-3653 (individual or group). Dance Rua Alice 550, Laranjeiras specially in or near the Amazon R$50 per person, minimum 2. [email protected] www.cookinrio.com or the Cerrado. lessons last 2 hours and should Price: R$150 per person, includes drinks and food. Schedule ahead. This fruit tasting session introduces you to over a dozen of these exotic fruits. You can cut open, smell, taste and drink them, whether as fruit, juice, ice cream or jam. The presenter will talk about their nutrional value, culinary uses and economic importance. Each session lasts 1 hour and the cost of R$60 per person includes everything you’ll be tasting. Book in advance.

orget hoity-toity French • Breaded fried sardines marinated and sliced et ready to take some Fdishes. This tour is for those (Sardinha frita) • Side-walk steak skewer (fillet Gunique photos of Rio’s who are curious to eat what the • 20 layer ham sandwich miau) visually rich landscape and average Brazilian eats when on people. The award-winning the go. Rio’s centro hasn’t yet • Steak • Coconut candy (alfinim) instructor on this tour will guide been invaded by international sandwich • Doce de Leite Churros and advise you through various franchises, making it an open-air • Corn- • Arabic nut nest (ninho de hidden and eye-catching areas food tasting mecca of traditional meal nozes) of the city, so you end up with corner bars and lanchonetes beef pasty million-dollar shots. The tour (snack-bars). (pastel de angu) starts in the hectic historic Rio Street-Food Tours What you’ll taste on the food • Corn-meal chowder (angu de Weekdays, noon to 3pm and 3pm to 6pm center, heading to charming tour: carne) Regular price: R$100 pp for 3 hour tour Santa Teresa and ending with min 2 participants (price includes foods cinematographic views of Rio • Flip-flop sandwich • Oversized shrimp in a blanket but not drinks) SPECIAL DEAL SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS from above. FOR OUR READERS (sanduiche de chinelo) (camarao empanado) CHECK FRONT FLAP CHECK FRONT FLAP tel: 8894-9857 Rio Photo Tour • Beef Esfiha (Esfiha de carne) • Everything hot-dog (cachorro www.riostreetfood.com Everyday, 3pm to 7pm tel: 8894-9857 quente de padaria) Price: R$100 pp for 4 hour tour, min 2 • Brazilian Cheese Bread (Pao participants (not including equipment or de queijo) • Beef Kibe transportation). www.riophototour.com • Veggie omelette sandwich • Shrimp Risoles (Fritada de legumes) • Jilo, a bitter vegetable,

Bio-Jewelry from Maria Oiticica flagship store Nirvana Day Spa Massages Treatments Shopping Leblon, 1st floor Maria Oiticica www.mariaoiticica.com.br Bio-jewelry? That’s right: Maria Oiticica studio jewelry made, not from slave Rua Visconde de Carandai 19, Jardim Botanico SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS gold and blood stones, but exotic tel: 2275-4197 CHECK FRONT FLAP and rare seeds and plants from deep in the Amazon. The design is vibrant and the philosophy refreshing. hat’s the best way to start t Nirvana Spa you can They also specialize in the For 20 years, Amazonia-native Wyour vacation? That’s Achoose from a huge variety following treatments: designer, Maria Oiticica, has right: massages at a stylish day of massages, including: • Clay body-therapy been designing jewelry and spa. And since you are here, why • Jet lag massage • Hot stones treatment accessories that attract the not go all out? • Relaxation massage • Bamboo therapy attention of the entire ball, true After popular request the works of art. Get it while it’s exclusive Nirvana Spa is now • Vodder-style lymphatic • Body peel drainage still incredibly affordable! open to non-members, so you • Aromatherapy bath • Body-modeling massage can get a single massage or • Facials treatment, or go for the full • Quick massage or half-day options. Since • Auriculotherapy (ear • Foot reflexology it is Brazil’s most complete acupuncture) urban spa, services can be • Shiatsu done concurrently with others • Ayurvedic massage Half-day packages are also in your group, so no waiting. • Sport Tonic massage available. Check their website Your best bet is to schedule for details of their dozens of • Thai massage something before 4pm, as most options. cariocas have their appointments • Spiritual massage scheduled from 5pm onwards.

Full Day Spa Package: Yoga

SPECIAL DEAL Sauna FOR OUR READERS Nirvana Spa CHECK FRONT FLAP Lunch Praca Santos Dumont 31 (inside Stimulating Body Peel the Jockey Club), Gávea tel: 2187-0100 Aroma-therapy bath with [email protected] essential oils www.enirvana.com.br Prices start at roughly R$100 for Ayurvedic massage 1 hour, depending on the service. Oriental Cranial massage Foot reflexology Reiki

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Sports Samba Chorinho he most famous Brazilian Where to hear it live: Lessons slower and more vocal Where to hear it live: music, mostly percussion version of samba, with T Salgueiro Tue and Sat (page A Praia Vermelha on Mon,Wed,Fri and ukelete guitars and very hard For samba drumming lessons, fewer beats, making it more 129) to stay still to. Ask someone contact: melancholic. It emerged in Centro Cultural Carioca (page to teach you the dance moves, Mangueira Wed and Sat Centro Cultural Casa Rosa the 19th Century and it is 118) which might look hard, but contact: Rodrigo Lapa (various spots) 8877-8804 or 2557-2562 still around. Not for daily Rio Scenarium (page 120) are even harder when you try Rua Alice 550, Laranjeiras consumption, as its pace can them! Can be heard at any of mellow out any excitement. the samba club rehearsals. Goes great with beer or more hyper stuff. CDs and Bands to look for: CDs and Bands to Pixinguinha look for: Jacob Do Bandolin Sambas De Enredo Carnaval De 2007 Joel Nascimento Cartola Jamelão Casa De Samba (Coletânea) Pagode Brazilian Funk n improvised samba, made Where to hear it live: othing like American do you get? Wild fire. Girls by beating anything that A Beco do Rato (page 118) Nfunk, Brazilian Funk is the love dancing to it, guys love can be found at a bar table: biggest musical revolution that singing the naughty lyrics and spoon to a bottle as the cymbal, Bip Bip (page 117) Brazil has seen in the last 35 parents hate it. In other words, a chair as the drum, matchbox Rua do Mercado (page 122) years. All the others get dwarfed just the way teenage music as the shaker etc. Dirty lyrics. by the advancements in it´s should be. Usually women start to dance empowering ability. Up until One of the most famous songs along to it. Great for afternoons this you would have to have is “The p***y is mine and I and barbecues. a voice, a band, a producer, a give it to who I want ” which label, a marketing plan etc, etc became a war-cry for new-age to become famous and heard. CDs and Bands to feminists. Now the marginally oppressed, look for: poor and vocally limited all CDs and Bands to Jorge Aragão have a chance to make a social look for: Zeca Pagodinho commentary on any topic, Mr Catra exposing their new reality. Isn´t Fundo De Quintal that what art is about? Showing Dj Marlboro Beth Carvalho us what we somehow don´t see? Gaiola Das Popozudas So mix simple electric piano Where to hear it live: loops with dirty lyrics and what Via Show, Lapa, Favelas

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e M Vacation Month  Carnival  Cell-Phone Companies´ Páscoa-Easter 1º de Maio- Labor Day Festa Junina M  January is vacation month for Carnival is also the largest party Music Festivals Easter is a big event in Brazil, as May 1st is Brazil’s Labor Day, Festa Junina is a hick fest. schools and government offices, of the year here: 190 million Different international this is a 90% catholic country. A when no one works. Some Everyone dresses like hill- so everyone is partying it up day people partying for a week. If brands have been sponsoring national holiday occurs on Good larger parties and concerts may billies and goes square dancing, and night. Most of the upper you are here during carnival, music events bringing huge Friday, so people tend to take the be sponsored by clubs or rave- Brazilian style of course. class won’t be in Rio this month, be sure to get tickets for the international bands to perform. whole week off. Everyone goes promoting companies. Usually these events are held but can be found in Buzios, Ilha Samba school parade held at somewhere, so if you are in Rio, between large groups of friends Grande and Paraty, as well as the Sambodromo, or wait till it is a fun time to visit Buzios, (100 or more), but some are run other parts of Brazil. The samba the Saturday after carnival and Brazilwide Paraty or Ilha Grande. Petrô-Fantasy by party promotion companies. club rehearsals are heating up, watch the top 5 winning schools Carnaporto- off-season 6 day Just like Terefantasy: a costume Worth a visit. Ask your so attend as many as you can. parade for the second time music fest/street party in Porto party 1 hour outside Rio. Mostly concierge for the public ones 21st of April (Desfile das Campeãs). See page Seguro – BA frequented by Rio’s college sprinkled throughout the city. 106 for more info. Tiradentes Day (Independence students. Beautiful venue, music th of anuary 20 J hero) and shows. Saint Sebastian Day: Only in Corpus Christi Rio Shifting in June. 23rd of April Saint George’s Day (Only in Carnival Schedule Rio) Brazilwide To get the most up-to-date info Carnabelô on the carnival parties, visit our Belo Horizonte-Minas Gerais site at Skol Beats www.rioforpartiers.com/samba.html A music festival sponsored by Skol, the beer brand. Lots of Bumba-meu-boi national and international DJs Parintins- Amazon playing dance music.

Leave Rio during national holidays To get more info on the above: When planning your trip, watch out for national holidays, checking to see if they land close to a To find out when the next one is on, check for flyers outside clubs like Six or Casa da Matriz. Also, weekend. If so, be sure to make reservations to check out Buzios, Paraty, Ilha Grande or Petropolis, as check the “A2” adult store in Ipanema, as they tend to carry most of the flyers for the weekly parties Rio’s elite flock to these places, making it much more fun than during off-season. and events. You should also get the Friday edition of O Globo newspaper with the “Rio Show” insert magazine or ask your concierge to find out what is going on as far as one-off events, shows and festivals.

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Events Events Also good on Fri & Sat 42 Also good on Tue-Sun 43 Approach index: 4 Approach index: 5 Get there at: 10pm Get there at: 7pm Ages 22 to 35 Ages 20 to 30 Sunday- Clubbing Dress casual Sunday- Live Music Dress casual Casa da Matriz Imagine someone’s house turned into a night club. 2 Dance floors, 2 bars, 1 shop, 1 movie room and a video game room! Yes, play all those games from your childhood for free while drunk! Frequented by Rio’s neo- hippies, students and the alternative crowd. Rua Henrique de Novais 107, Botafogo

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FOR OUR READERS e Casa Rosa- Samba da Alice CHECK FRONT FLAP M  Hidden in Laranjeiras neighborhood, Casa Rosa, an ex-bordel, is the most fun place in this part of the city. It is a large house modified into a party club, with rooms, garden, pool tables and lots of places for you to be naughty. On Sundays, they have the samba and pagode circles, where different bands will perform while more down-to-earth visitors will crowd around and sing along. A very different and relaxed atmosphere. Rua Alice 550, Laranjeiras

Also good on Mon Also good all week Approach index: 3 Approach index: 2 Sunday- Street Party Get there at: 8pm Sunday- Chilling Get there at: 9pm Ages 18 to 30 Ages 25 to 60 Dress casual Dress casual

Baixo Gávea This is where every college student living in Zona Sul (the south Cobal Humaitá side) is to be found on Sundays and Mondays. People hang out in A huge open-air patio filled with tables for Rio’s various tribes to go and gossip about their weekend the street from 6pm till midnight, on Mondays from 8pm to 1am. exploits. Various restaurants to choose from. Well behaved. A guaranteed good time for all. Baixo Gavea, Gavea Cobal do Humaita, Humaita

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers 44 Events Also good all week Events Also good on Sat Exper 45 t ie Approach index: 3 Approach index: 5 s n

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e Ages 25 to 40  Friday- Clubbing M Friday- Street Party  Dress nice Dress casual Lapa Lapa is great any day of the week, specially on Fridays and Saturdays: you have a choice of over 12 bars and areas to hang out at, most of them with live Brazilian music. A definite must. Anywhere in the Lapa neighborhood

SPECIAL DEAL apa raus FOR OUR READERS L 40 G CHECK FRONT FLAP One of the best places in Lapa: 4 floors. The first floor has a botequim with live music and a pool hall, the second a lounge, the third another pool hall and the fourth a large dance floor and stage featuring Also good all week Rio´s top names in Samba and other sounds. Amazing! Lots of dancing. Come early and stay till the Approach index: 4 wee hours. Rua do Riachuelo 97, Lapa | www.lapa40graus.com.br Rua do Mercado Get there at: 7pm Happy hour central. A Ages 25 to 40 Dress casual colonial part of downtown is the Rua do Mercado, which has pagode street parties every Friday evening. The area offers a dozen bars to hop around, with a square for the pagode get-together. Rua do Mercado, Centro

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Events Also good all week Events Also good all week 46 Approach index: 2 Approach index: 473 Get there 8pm Get there at: 8pm Ages 30 to 75 Ages 25 to 55 Friday- Live Music Dress up Friday- Chilling Dress nice

Devassa Considered the best beer in Rio and possibly all of Brazil, Devassa is Rio’s answer to premi-

SPECIAL DEAL um micro-brew. Apart iranda FOR OUR READERS M CHECK FRONT FLAP from the lager, red, pale A new and ritzy live music venue located on Lagoa, named in homage and stout, they have an Exper t ie s n

u c exceptional food menu. to Carmen Miranda. Ideal for those who don’t want to put up with the e hustle of Lapa, or distance to other music locations. Be sure to visit M  There are Devassas pop- www.mirandabrasil.com.br as soon as you arrive to check their line-up, ping up everywhere, so as it is likely to have a bigshot from Brazil’s MPB, Bossanova, Rock ask for the nearest one. or Samba. Great dishes and finger food, as well as oversized drinks. In Rua Prudente de Morais 416, “Espaço Lagoon” complex - Av. Borges de Medeiros, 1424. Lagoa. Tel: 2239-0305 Ipanema

Good on weekends Good all week Approach index: 4 Approach index: 2 Get there at: 10pm Get there at: 7pm Ages 20 to 35 Ages 20 to 50 Dress casual Dress casual

Teatro Odisseia A favorite music show hall in Lapa, with top Brazilian MPB and rock artists performing regularly. The place always packs, adding to the experience. Ages Botequim Informal 20 to 38 | Approach index: 4 | Get A large chain of botequims with exceptional draught beer, portuguese there at: 9pm | Dress casual. Rua Mem cold tapas, Brazilian bar food and Rio’s best bolinho de carne seca de Sa 66, Lapa | Also good on Thu-Sat (jerked beef cakes). Lot’s of fun on Sundays at 4pm, when there are soccer matches. Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 in Leblon

elcome to Rio, recently Gay Rio by Day then Rio, as former capital and voted the most popular current hot spot, offers lots W The focal point is the gay beach gay destination in the world! of history, architecture and in Ipanema, just in front of Rua Apart from the stunning beaches GLBT cultural events, like a Farme de Amoedo, perhaps the and incredible landscapes, film festival, theatre and many gayest street in Rio. Don’t worry there’s far more to catch the fascinating museums. if you can’t speak Portuguese, eye, starting with the Cariocas body-language is universal. themselves - an exotic mix of sensual, passionate and mostly gay-friendly folk who love On weekends the beach in front nothing more than a party. of Copacabana Palace attracts a mature as well as a bear crowd. Being Brazil’s main tourist city, you won’t just meet locals and There is more to Rio than just foreigners - there’s a constant beaches, however. There are stream of Brazilians on holiday top attractions like Sugar Loaf from all over the country and Mountain, the Christ statue GAY being on holiday means that and the Botanical Gardens most are in an adventurous party and if you’re a culture vulture mood. NIGHT If it’s parties you’re after, then Farme de Amoedo Beach you’re in for a treat. Every night you can club and party, SUNDAY Le Boy may be your thing. to Le Boy’s Strip Night. Here you can dance all night to the the only problem is choice. If it’s sunny, it’s a beach day. latest tunes and watch a show of Occasional Circuit Parties such After, where better than Rio MONDAY Rio’s best strippers. as B.I.T.C.H, R:Evolution, the G Spa to wash the sand out of A quieter evening in town and Original Pool Party and Maxima those tricky places. Just across a chance to recover from the are all spectacular (get the flyers from the gay beach in Ipanema, excesses of the weekend. Fancy WEDNESDAY & on the beach) and events like this is by far the most popular a coffee and boy-watching? Carnival, Pride and New Year’s Sunday post-praia meeting THURSDAY Head for Cafeina on Farme. For Eve all attract many dancing place. You just might bump into Great days to hang out in the girls, La Girl is open with queens. the very person you’ve been Ipanema. Around midnight, a line-up of DJs. Le Boy also admiring all day at the beach. leave Farme and walk one opens a smaller part of the club But don’t linger for too long, block away to Teixeira de Melo, on Mondays. as everyone else has gone for a to Galeria. Whether outside drink at To Nem Ai on Farme. or inside, there’s always a You can’t miss it, it’s where TUESDAY friendly crowd and tonight it’s the gay crowd bursts out onto POParty with VJ LC Ambient. Having had a relatively chilled the street. You might like to Alternatively, you could try out Monday you are ready dine later at 00 (Zero Zero) in Dama de Ferro for excellent to party. One choice is to Gávea - the chiquest club with house and alternative tunes. If hang out around Posto 6 bars the hippest crowd. If you want you prefer Copacabana, try the (Copacabana) and then move on something beefier, the go-gos at TV Bar followed by Fosfobox.

Steakhouse Amazonian Churrascaria Palace Espirito Santa The legendary Churrascaria Palace was one of the bossa-nova artists’ hang-outs in the 50’s. Today it With Amazonian ingredients and world-class culinary techniques,you’ll be wowed with what Natacha is considered the steakhouse in Rio with the best cost/benefit ratio. Their specialty is picanha, cupim Fink has in store for you. Fish and vegetables are all fresh from the Amazon. Since everything is exotic, (hump) and lamb ribs. Ask the maitre D` to serve you “tuti”, the softest, most succulent part of the rib. let the maitre´D design your experience. (entrees vary between R$35 and R$70) Also ask for “picanha borboleta” and the Amazonian fish steaks. They also offer calamari, shrimp, sushi, Recent awards and prizes: oysters and salmon, as well as scores of side dishes, anti-pasti and salads. (R$78 for all you care to eat) Nominated for “Best Brazilian Cuisine” - VejaRio Magazine 2011 & 2012 SPECIAL DEAL Top 3 Brazilian Restaurants in Rio - Isto É Magazine 2011 FOR OUR READERS Recent Awards and Prizes: “Top 3 churrascarias in Rio” - Época Magazine 2012 “Best cost x benefit churrascaria” CHECK FRONT FLAP 2012 - O Globo Top 3 churrascarias (steakhouses) in TripAdvisor Rio de Janeiro SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264, Santa Teresa | www.espiritosanta.com.br | tel:2507-4840 Closed on Tuesdays Rua Rodolfo Dantas 16, Copacabana | tel: 2541-5898 | www.churrascariapalace.com.br CHECK FRONT FLAP Lamb ribs with mint jelly Pacu fish in Kale wrap with banana cins Fried Steak & cassava cake Butterfly rumpsteak

Sea Food Mineiran and Bahian Food

SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS Sobrenatural Brasileirinho Copacabana CHECK FRONT FLAP You have got to check out Santa Teresa during the day and at night. You just have to. And the highest The two regions in Brazil that have their own, authentic and traditional cuisine are Minas Gerais and recommendation we can think of for a decently priced, superb meal is Sobrenatural, which has some Bahia. The other regions have a limited number of recipes or are heavily influenced by foreign food, of the freshest fish in Rio. Go on a Monday, Wednesday or Friday, when they have live Samba and such as the German recipes in the south of Brazil. Brasileirinho in Copa is the deluxe version of the Chorinho music by renowned local artists. As for food: consider their beer battered shrimp as an Brasileirinho in Ipanema, and their focus is on Bahian and Mineiran food. What to order: the moqueca, appetizer, followed by fish or shrimp moqueca (from Bahia, a must) or coconut surubin fish with brazil- the bobo de camarão (cassava stew with prawns), tutu a mineira (the best bet here, refried black beans nut rice and plantains. Afterwards, bar hop the neighboring spots. (entrees from R$40 to R$80 pp) with pork chops and kale). The view, by itself, is worth the visit! (entrees from R$30 to R$60) SPECIAL DEAL Recent awards and prizes: Nominated by “Revista Veja Comer e Beber” for 5 years (2008 - 2012) FOR OUR READERS Av. Atlantica 3564, Copacabana | tel: 2267-3148 | www.cozinhatipica.com.br Rua Almirante Alexandrino 432 Santa Teresa | Tel: 2224-1003 | Tue -Thu + Sun 6pm to 2am, Fri+Sat 6pm 5am CHECK FRONT FLAP Shrimp Bobó Shrimp Bobó in Pumpkin Pork chops with “tutu” beans Saffron rice with Prawns

Japanese Feijoada Sushi Leblon Casa da Feijoada Japanese food is huge in Rio and Sushi Leblon has been a runaway success for 20 years. Unless you Casa da Feijoada`s specialty is probably the most typical dish from Brazil: a black bean stew with show up before 8pm, you´ll have to wait in line however, and no, tables don´t free up at midnight... the hearty sausages and sun-dried beef, served with rice, collard greens, cassava (manioc) flour and orange place boils till 2am! Their success stems from their innovations in sushi and japanese dishes as well as slices. This may slow you down on the dance floor. A “must” experience. Feijoada with caipirinha go from their hip Leblon address. Note: it is customary for Japanese restaurants in Brazil to over fill your together like Starsky & Hutch, sticks & clutch. Ask for a caipirinha made with their oak-barrel aged sake box, as a sign of generosity. Be sure to try the strawberry caipisake, to get the night started. SPECIAL DEAL “Vendaval” brand cachaça. (R$79 for all you care to eat feijoada) FOR OUR READERS Recent awards and prizes: Winner of “best japanese” by “Revista Veja Comer e Beber” for many of the last ten years. Rua Prudente de Morais 10, Ipanema tel: 2247-2776 | 11am to 1am www.cozinhatipica.com.br CHECK FRONT FLAP Rua Dias Ferreira, 256 - Leblon tel: 2512-7830 | Mon-Fri 12pm-4pm and 7pm-2am; Sat 12pm-2am & Sun 1pm-12am | www.sushileblon.com Octopus w teriaki on rice cakes Truffled Salmon Sashimi with caviar Truffled Complete Feijoada

Wine Bar Panoramic Brigite’s Brigite’s is one of those tasteful places you could just hang out in all night: it’s got Rio`s favorite wine Azul Marinho There are two dishes in this restaurant that make it worth coming back: the first is the “pargo” fish in a list, a varied gourmet cuisine, a hip cocktail bar and a chic lounge crowd after 11pm. Located next door rock salt mount, served with rice or potatoes. The rock salt is not used to season, but to cook the fish at to Zuka and Sushi Leblon. (entrees from R$35 to R$70 pp) SPECIAL DEAL FOR OUR READERS an even temperature, allowing the meat to end up white, soft, moist and flaky, as opposed to dark, dry Recent awards and prizes: “Best Wine Bar cuisine” Rio Show 2012 CHECK FRONT FLAP Rua Dias Ferreira 247, Leblon tel:2274-5590 on the sides and under-cooked in the middle. Pargo no sal grosso is the name. The second is the Bahian Shrimp Moqueca, a shrimp-coconut milk stew to die for. Worth checking out day and night, as it’s SPECIAL DEAL outdoor tables overlook Ipanema and Leblon beaches. (entrees from R$40 to R$80 pp) FOR OUR READERS CHECK FRONT FLAP Av. Francisco Behring, Arpoador (Ipanema) tel: 2513-5014 | All week 12pm to 12am | www.cozinhatipica.com.br Seafood Mix Seafood Paella Chimii-churi sea bass with pumpkin sauce

Fruit fair weekly schedule: Fruits and Juices They all start at 8am and end at 1pm! Wed: Praça Edmundo Bittencourt (Copa) Sat: Rua Frei Leandro (Jardin Botanico) The fastest way to try all the various fruits is to participate in Fruit Brazil’s fruit tasting session page Mon: Rua Henrique Dumont (Ipanema) Thu: Rua Min. Viveiro de Castro (Copa) Sun: Rua Serzedelo Correia (Copa) 80. Alternatively, any of the juice bars have most of these and others in juice form. Tues: Praça General Osorio (Ipanema) Fri: Praça N. S. Paz (Ipanema)

Manga –Mango Goiaba- Guava Mamão - Papaya Coco - Coconut Water Fruta do conde - Carambola - StarFruit Considered Thick, Just as healthy The best Custard Apple Star shaped by many the sweet and as avocado, thing when Ugly on football with one fruit they smooth, papaya is you are the outside a juicy, citric would take just like great for your dehydrating (looks like zing to it. Great with them me. intestinal under the a grenade), in fruit or juice to a desert Vitamin works. Vitamin sun. Drink 2 sweet on form. island. Sweet A, C, A and C, a to cure your the inside. and creamy. complex B and other minerals. natural laxative hangover. Talk about Vitamin A and C. Not recommended for those with and stress Rich in philosophical dualities! Very digestive problems. reliever. Try it as a “vitamina”, a minerals, potassium and sodium. milky juice. Vitamin C and smoothie. complex B. Guaraná Sold normally Maracujá- Passion Cana- Jabuticaba Mate in concetrate Fruit Sugar juice form A distant Slightly caffeinated herb used to cousin of the Slightly bitter to a point that Cane (refresco), make iced tea, with a deep rich grape, yet it makes your cheeks pucker, guaraná could flavor. The sweeter and but very be considered sweetest of thicker. Great refreshing. Acerola a distant all things in fruit form, Rich in The king of vitamin C (each has cousin of root on God’s specially complex B more Vit. C than 40 lemons), beer, but, like every juice in green earth. when frozen. vitamins, acerola juice is refreshing and Brazil, a lot sweeter. A stimulant Always Bite, spit iron and slightly citric. and digestive. And dig this: squeezed on the seed and skin out. Rich in has natural clinically proven to enhance the spot for best flavor. complex B vitamins. soothing sexual performance. properties. Açaí Camú-Camú Abacate - Avocado Blended Pitanga Great name, but that’s it. Thick and creamy it has the together with Cajú- Cashew Healthy Amora Terrible. dirt-like taste. Good for largest number of nutrients and guarana, acai fruit with practical jokes. Rich in vit C. Sweet and refreshing with a very vitamins. shakes (or Dark South American citric yet distinctive taste Great for very thick blackberry. A highly effective milky taste. and dominating breakfast. smoothies) cholesterol reducer. smell. Rich in should be consumed with a Rich in vitamin A, C spoon and optionally a side of calcium, and complex granola for sprinkling. Very iron and B. caloric yet rich in proteins, fiber, phosphorus. A natural stimulant vitamin E, minerals and is a and antidiarrheal. natural cholesterol controller.

Rio For Partiers Rio For Partiers Intro | Relax | Sports | Cultural | Rainy | Events | Night | Gay | Restaurants | Street Food | Brazil | After Brazil HotSpots great destinations close to rio here are two ways to extend your vacation in Brazil. One way is to visit the neighboring tourist Tspots in the state of Rio; the other is to take a plane or bus to other popular tourist destinations. If you intend on coming back on future trips to different parts of Brazil, we highly recommend staying in the state of Rio. It offers a little of everything Brazil is known for, namely parties, beaches, jungle and colonial history. All these spots take under 3 hours to get to, by bus or car. If you are staying longer than 7 days in Rio, we highly recommend checking out these neighboring areas, as they each offer things that Rio doesn’t: Búzios is a party town with great beaches, the Petropolis area is great for mountainous sports, Ilha Grande has the best eco-tourism in the state and Paraty is knee-deep in culture, history and charm. Petropolis & Itaipava  Imperial city in cozy mountain range

Paraty  Historic town with beautiful beaches Buzios  The party town of the Southern Hemisphere

Exper t ie s n

u c e Búzios M  úzios is a claw shaped peninsula, with about 27 Bbeaches, making it the St. Tropez of South America, with all the snobbery. Between December and March you can find the trendy 30 somethings there, as well as the young crowd, mostly partiers and surfers. It has a complete tourist infrastructure that allows you to stay a week without getting bored. Reservations are recommended for the week around Xmas, New Year and Carnival. Otherwise, finding a place to stay won’t be hard, as it accommodates thousands of people during high season. Look for a pousada at Geribá (the coolest beach and where you will be spending your daytime) or downtown, close to “Rua das Pedras” (Centro) where you will be spending your evenings. Other areas will be too out of the way and not worth the savings. To get to Búzios, take the 1001 bus from Novo Rio Bus South end of Geriba beach, the cool side Station, which takes 3 hours. Alternatively you can hire a car service for speed and comfort. Once there, you can rent a dune buggy or a car. Other good dates to go are during national holidays, should they land on a weekday, State of Minas Gerais as everyone in Rio takes a sick day and makes it a 4-day weekend. Check: www.buziosonline.com.br State of Rio de Janeiro Activities: Surf lessons and body board rentals (Geribá), wind surfing (Manguinhos), wake boarding (Ferradura Beach), jet skiing (Centro Beach) Nightlife: Different clubs and bars along Rua das Pedras. Nightlife Quick Decision maker: Main activities: Partying, dancing, beach, eating, surfing, windsurfing, jetskiing, snorkelling, etc. Who usually goes: Singles, couples, groups When to go: All year round on weekends, all week December to March. How long to stay: 3 to 10 days.

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