Chanderi Saree

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Chanderi Saree Back ground: Situated on the boundary of two cultural regions of Madhya Pradesh, Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi, placed in the Vindhyachal ranges is home to a wide range of traditions. Specializing in producing fine textured Chanderi sarees of silk and cotton embellished with zari work intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. Chanderi silk cotton sarees display various beautifully striking motifs that include ‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘jangla’ etc. Material used: The un-degummed mulberry silk yarn of 16/18 to 20/22 Denier count is used in warp. Whereas 100s-120s or 2/100s to 2/120s cotton yarn is used in the weft. Because of un-degummed silk yarn, the fabric is transparent. Gold and silver Zari are used for extra warp designs in border and extra weft designs in pallow and body. Technique applied: Weaving is done on pit as well as frame loom filted with jala designing technique. Jala are lifted manually either by helper or weaver himself for weaving extra weft designs in the body and the pallow of the saree. Sometime jacquards are also used for lifting jala. For extra warp figuring in border, lattice dobby is used. The pegs/screws are inserted on lattice as per design and theses pegs/screws lift selected levers as a result extra warp threads are lifted. The lattice dobby is placed on the top of loom and connected to heald shaft which gives motion to dobby while operated by pedals/treadles. How to distinguish genuine Chanderi Saree: Warp thread is un-degummed mulberry silk whereas weft thread is cotton, which is not commonly used in any textile products. Due to un-degummed silk warp, the fabric texture is somehow not very soft. The fabric is not compactly woven. It is transparent and light weight, very suitable for summer wear. .

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2 Chapter Iv
il CHAPTER IV maharana sangram sinch ALIAS SANGA (1509 A.D. - 1523 A.D.) Sangraa Singh alias Sanga, born to Jaivanta Bai on Tuesday» April 14* 14^ A.B.^ » was the third son of Hana Raiiaal* Nothing is known about his childhood though i t is safe to presume that normal martial training, a necessair equipaient of a prince-royal in the mediaeval times, v/ould not hare been denied to him; and that martial k skill which ch^terised all the sons 2 of Raimal , would have adorned the personality of young Sanga as well. We first hear of him when Prithviraj and Jaimal challenged the(^verdicts )or the astrologer and the priestess-oracle of Bhimal about the future succession of Sanga to the throne of Ghittor after the death of Raimal through their attempts on the life of Sanga. The War of Succession (150$-6 A .D .) and the period following:, the return of Sanga to Mewar to administer the state on behalf of his father schooled him in the ytays of the world and statecraft. The period preceeding the death o f Raimal proved further fateful to him by manoeinrring events to bless the beginning of the reign of Sanga with a victory over the forces of Sikandar Lodi. Battle of Bakrol:- The Vanshavalis evidence for a battle between Sher 3 4 Khan Pathan of Narwar and Maharana Sanga on the 19th day since his succession to the throne of Mewar ( i .e ., Monday, June 11,1509 A .D ,), However, no reason for this clash is giren.
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