Aug. 13, ‘194-0. E. BRY 2,211,642 NOVELTY WOOL AND MOHAIR KNOP YARN Original Filed July 4, 1939

MOHAIR , g BINDER WOOL 6 ~’5 I“ I’). 1

c0115 WO0,L 4 2' 3 "1- ‘ " A ‘1% a‘ BINDER _ '“/%WW/

INVENTOR EDWIN BR Y.

M ATTORNEYS ‘ Patented Aug. 13, 1940 2,211,642

UNITED ‘STATES iQATEhi'i‘ @FFEZQE 2,211,642 NOVELTY WQOL AND MOHAIR KNUP YARN Edwin Bry, Elberon, N. 5., assignor to Edwin & Louis Bry, Inn, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Original application July 4, 1939, Serial No. 282,775. Divided and this application No vember 24, 1939, Serial No. 305,759 4 Claims. (G1. 57--l44) My invention relates to the art of textiles and yarn and further twist the threads of wool and. I to a novelty yarn formed of separate threads or threads of mohair in initially relatively close re strands of mohair and wool, said novelty yarn lation so that upon shrinking said yarn the faster having alternate knops of wool and mohair along shrinking threads of mohair act to press out the its length. More particularly my invention re threads of wool in the form of bunching or loose lates to a yarn comprising a thread or strand of arcuate loops. mohair and a thread or strand of wool twisted Again, in the above twist, because of the greater ' together and about a core thread and having al shrinkage of the threads of mohair the mohair ternate knops of mohair and knops of wool along knops that are formed are relatively large, irreg ll) its length. . , ular and shiny, while the wool knops are rela 1.0 My invention further relates to the gimp or tively small, loose and bunchy. ~ ratine twist having an unusual crinkled effect Further, in addition to the enhancing of the between said knops of mohair and wool, such beauty of the yarn by the use of this particular gimp or ratine twist being formed by the shrink combination of threads of mohair and threads age of the thread or strand of mohair against of wool in a twist formation, I secure a yarn of 15. the thread or strand of wool. ‘ de?nitely superior properties. The threads of My invention further relates to a novelty yarn mohair shrinking far and fast as they do, tend formed by twisting a thread or strand of mohair to compress themselves about the threads of and a thread or strand of wool about a core wool; the wool being a ?uf?er material absorbs 20 thread and then shrinking the resulting yarn, the strain of the shrinking threads of mohair 20 which shrinking causes the greater shrinking and further acts as a resilient base against which strand or thread of mohair to force the strand the threads of mohair may be compressed when or thread of wool out into arcuate loops to give the yarn is subject to strain in its actual use. a crepe effect. Alternatively, I may use mohair and wool of This application is a division of my co-pending such relative count so that the mohairis bunched _ 25 application Serial No. 282,775, ?led July 4, 1939. out into arcuate loops by the wool. For the sake of brevity, I shall refer to the My invention therefore lies in the combination threads or strands of mohair and wool as threads of threads of mohair and threads of wool in a of mohair or threads of wool, respectively, said particular twist whereby alternate knops of mod threads consisting of aplurality of twisted ?bres hair and wool are spaced by gimp or ratine 30 of wool or mohair respectively. formed by twisted threads of mohair and threads My invention further relates to a novelty fabric of Wool. In that ratine because of the respec formed from the novelty yarn described above tive differential shrinkage between ‘the threads and particularly a fabric in which such novelty of mohair and the threads of wool the ratine 35 yarn comprises all or part of the woof or ?ller has a {peculiar crinkled effect formed by the forc 35 and/or all or part of the warp. My yarn may ing out by the threads of mohair of the threads comprise all or part of the fabric. of wool into arcuate fluffy loops. The desirability of providing textile yarns of . Alternatively, the ratine may have its crinkled attractive and. distinctive appearance has long effect produced by the forcing out of the mohair been recognized. One method of obtaining such by the wool, which would be determined by the 40 novelty effect is by the provision of knops on said relation of the count of the mohair. to the wool. yarn which consists of loops of thread bunched It is, therefore, the object of my invention to and twisted about speci?c areas of the core of provide a novel yarn comprising threads of wool the novelty yarn. Such knops are formed by and threads of mohair. 45 twisting a thread of suitable yarn about a core It is a further object of my invention to provide 45 thread which is alternately progressed and a novel yarn of twisted threads of wool and stopped so- that such over-twisted thread alter threads of mohair carrying alternate knops of nately bunches in the form of loops about such Wool and mohair at spaced intervals thereon. core thread and then progresses on and twists. It is a further object of my invention to .pro- ' 50 I have provided a novel textile yarn of dis vide a novel yarn of twisted threads of wool and 50 tinctive appearance which comprises a core ma threads of mohair in which the wool is formed terial which may be of cotton and twisted about into arcuate loops which extend out from the such core material, threads of wool and threads yarn. of mohair. I form alternate knops composed of ‘It is a further object of my invention to pro 55 threads of mohair and threads of wool in my vide a novel yarn of twisted threads of. wool and 2 2,211,642 threads of mohair in which the mohair is formed hair 3 are subjected to longitudinal tension they into arcuate loops which extend out from the are compressed against the threads of wool 2 yarn. and inasmuch as the threads of wool 2 are a fluffy It is a further object of my invention to pro and resilient material and the threads of mohair vide a crinkled yarn formed of twisted threads are thus given an unusual resilience and resist of mohair and threads of wool in which because ance to rupture. of the differential in shrinking properties between In Figure 3 which diagrammatically represents the threads of mohair and threads of wool, the the machine for manufacturing the novelty yarn wool is formed into arcuate fluffy loops. of my invention, I show a supply of core thread 10 It is a further object of my invention to pro on the spool Ill which travels between the rollers 10 vide a crinkled. yarn formed of twisted threads i I and I2. These rollers alternately move the of mohair and threads of wool in which because core thread material I forward and then arrest of the differential in shrinking properties between its motion so that the knops can be formed. the threads of mohair and threads of wool, the The core thread I travels about the guide roller 15 mohair is formed into arcuate large loops. I3 and then towards the bobbin I4. 15 It is a further object of my invention to pro The wool is supplied from the spool I5 and vide a novelty yarn which comprises a core thread travels between the rollers I6 and I‘! which de over which is twisted threads of mohair and liver it about the core thread I. The faller bar threads of wool. 20 is located just above the point where the 20 It is a further object of my invention to provide thread of wool 2 is twisted about the core thread I 20 a novelty yarn which comprises a core thread as set forth. The thread of mohair 3 is supplied over which is twisted threads of mohair and from the spool 2| and passes between the rollers threads of wool, said novelty yarn having thereon IG and I1 and passes beneath the faller bar 23 at alternate knops of mohair and wool. which point it is twisted over the core thread I 25 It is a further object of my invention to pro and the thread of wool 2. vide a novelty yarn which comprises a core When the core thread I is progressed steadily thread over which is twisted threads of mohair forward the wool and mohair are twisted about and threads of wool, said novelty yarn having it in an even twist which forms the ratine or thereon alternate knops of mohair and wool, said gimp of the novelty yarn of my invention. When 30 yarn being bound back with a binder thread. by means of the rollers H and I2 the forward 30 It is a further object of my invention to pro movement of the core thread I is stopped, the vide a novelty yarn of relatively increased wool and mohair are still being twisted about strength in which threads of wool and threads of the core thread and form knops 4 and 5 of wool mohair are twisted in such a way that upon and mohair respectively. 35 shrinkage, the greater shrunk threads of mohair The novelty yarn so formed of mohair and wool 35 are tensioned against the more resilient and may then be bound down with a suitable binder ?uffy threads of wool. thread according to methods which are well These and other objects and advantages of known in this art. One or more binders may be invention will be apparent from the following employed if desired. 40 description and the drawing. The faller bar 20 and 23 prevent the threads In the drawing, Figure 1 represents a side of wool and the threads of mohair from rising up elevation of the yarn of my invention. on the core thread and assist in forming the Figure 2 represents an enlarged section of a bunched knops. portion of the yarn shown in Figure 1. The yarn thus formed passes through a guide 45 Figure 3 is a diagrammatic showing of the 24 and thence through a. lifter plate 25 on to the 45 apparatus and methods by which the novelty bobbin I4. The twisting is effected by means of yarn of my invention is formed. the pulley 26 driven by the belt 21 shown which Referring now more speci?cally to the drawing, rotates the bobbin Id. in Figure 1, I is the core thread of my yarn which The novelty yarn thus formed is bound in a core may be of cotton or any suitable similar ma separate operation, in which the binding thread 6 50 terial. Twisted about this core thread I is a is bound back over the yarn. If desired, the thread of wool 2 and a thread of mohair 3. The novelty yarn may also be bound back with still thread of wool is formed into a knop 4 and the another binder thread. The binder threads se thread of mohair is formed into a knop 5 spaced cure the components of the novelty yarn against 55 therefrom. The yarn is bound back with a displacement. The binding operation by means binder thread 6. of which my novelty yarn is bound down is not Speci?cally referring now to Figure 2 in which shown in the drawing since it is a well known a section of the novelty yarn of Figure 1 is operation in the art. shown in enlarged form, it is to be noted that the The novelty knop yarn formed as above set knop 5 of mohair is loose and forms a shiny forth is then woven into a fabric. I may employ knop of relatively large mass while the knop 4 this novelty knop yarn as the weft or ?ller of a of wool is relatively small and bunchy. fabric or I may employ it as the warp or both Between these knops is the ratine or gimp as warp and weft. The novelty yarn may com which has a crinkled appearance of particular prise all or part of the fabric. By combining merit in which it will be noted the thicker thread this novel yarn with other yarns I may obtain of wool 2 is forced out into arcuate loops as pleasing aesthetic effects in fabrics. shown by reason of the fact that the thread of After the fabric is formed it is washed in an mohair twisted therewith has shrunk relatively emulsion of soap, soda ash, and warm water. farther than the wool and thus pulls the wool This washing effects a shrinkage in both the into the arcuate form shown. Inasmuch as the wool and mohair. The cotton threads which threads of wool have a fluffy appearance and the constitute the core binder remain substan threads of mohair a shiny sleek appearance, the tially unchanged. The threads of mohair shrink yarn of my invention has a particularly pleasing relatively substantially faster and farther than effect. the threads of wool and thus pull the threads of It will be noted that when the threads of mo wool in the ratine or gimp into the arcuate loops 2,211,642 3 and give the desirable crinkled or crepe effect. method by means of which I form a novelty yarn The mohair knops shrink into the loose, irregu of threads of mohair and threads of wool having lar form while the wool knops shrink and become alternate knops of mohair and wool, it is to be smaller and bunchy.. understood that I can arrange the knops in other I wish to emphasize the new and unexpected sequences if desired. The provision of spaced effects which result from the combination of knops in my novelty yarn is of utility inasmuch threads of mohair and threads of wool in the as it provides de?nite areas of gimp or ratine in form of overtwist yarn over and above the pleas~ which the differential shrinkage properties of the ing aesthetic results which are so desirable in threads of mohair and threads of wool respec 10 the art. These new and unexpected results are: tively act to give the crepe e?ect described. 10 (1) The differential in shrinking properties The apparatus and method whereby I form my between the threads of mohair and the threads novel twist yarn of threads of mohair and threads of wool results in the threads of mohair forcing of wool have been given by way of example only. the threads of wool into the form of arcuate loops I intend to de?ne my invention and to be limited whereby a desirable crepe effect is obtained and only by the appended claims. 15 at the same time whereby the threads of mohair I claim: themselves are given a slight loop effect. 1. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread When the reverse relative count of mohair and and a thread of mohair and a thread of wool wool is employed, then the differential in shrink twisted over said core thread, and knops of mo 20 ing properties between the threads of mohair and hair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, said 20 the threads of wool results in the threads of knops of mohair being relatively large and shiny, wool forcing the threads of mohair into the form and said knops of wool being relatively small of arcuate loops whereby a desirable crepe e?ect and ?uffy. _ is obtained and at the same time whereby the 2. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread threads of wool themselves are given a slight loop and a thread of mohair and a thread of wool 25 effect, and twisted over said core thread, and knops of mo (2) The threads of mohair lying in tensional hair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, said contact with the resilient threads of wool are knops of mohair being relatively large and shiny, given increased longitudinal strength. and said knops of wool being relatively small and The threads of wool which I may employ may fluffy, and a binder thread over said twist. 30 be white or colored by a skein dye process or may 3. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and be formed by a mixture process, or my wool may a thread of mohair and a thread of wool twisted constitute a mixture containing colored and/or over said core thread, and alternate knops of white nubs or knickers. mohair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, The threads of mohair may be any desirable said knops of mohair being relatively large and 35 type of mohair having a shrinkage relatively shiny, and said knops of wool being relatively much higher than that of wool. small and ?uffy. The core or binder material may be of cotton, 4. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and worsted, rayon, silk, wool, or mohair or any other a thread of mohair and a thread of wool twisted suitable material. over said core thread, and alternate knops of 40 Although the core and binder may be varied if mohair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, said desired, it is the particular combination of knops of mohair being relatively large and shiny, threads of wool and threads of mohair in the and said knops of wool being relatively small twisted formation as shown that produces the and ?u?y, and a binder thread over said twist. novelty yarn of my invention. 45 Although I have particularly pointed out the EDWIN BRY.