The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park

The Apennines: Italy’s Abruzzo National Park

Naturetrek Tour Report 17 - 24 May 2018

Brown Argus Marsican Iris

Red Fox Western Green Lizard

Report & images by Jessica Turner

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park

Tour Participants: Jessica Turner and Nicola Scatassi (leaders) together with 13 Naturetrek clients

Summary

The Abruzzo National Park in the central Apennines of Italy always offers a wide range of wildlife encounters, including a few surprises, set amidst a variety of habitats. We were exceedingly fortunate to have such good and extended views of a Marsican Brown Bear on the first occasion we went looking! These are truly wild animals, never fed by humans, and any sighting of them or Wolves, which we did not see during the week but found plenty of evidence of in the form of scats, is a bonus. It was a late season, with the area having had a lot of snow and rain. We were very aware of the snow in Val di Rose, where we had good views of Abruzzo Chamois, and carpets of Spring Crocus and Alpine Squill where the snow was starting to melt. The orchids were also just coming into flower, and very fresh, and we saw more than we sometimes do. The unsettled weather meant there were fewer butterflies on the wing, but a fresh Baton Blue, Red-underwing Skippers and large numbers of hill- topping Scarce Swallowtails were a joy. The good views of Wild Boar, Red and Roe Deer, Red-backed Shrikes, Cirl Buntings and other species added to our pleasure.

Geraldine and Marco, as ever, provided a warm welcome, delicious food and excellent hospitality, introducing us to several local specialities. Everything contributed to an excellent week in a delightful location!

Day 1 Thursday 17th May

UK to Rome to Pescasseroli Ten group members met Jessica at London Heathrow Terminal 5 for our mid-morning flight to Rome. After a slight delay in take-off, we made up some time. Having collected our bags, we met up with Nicola, who had flown from Milan, and also with the other three group members. Jessica and Nicola collected the vehicles, always a slow process, and picked up the group, who were having refreshments and topping up their tans in the late afternoon sun (or waiting in the shade). The traffic on the Rome ringroad was fairly slow, but we picked up speed as we drove east. As we went we were able to note Umbrella Pines (Pinus pinea), Hooded Crows, Swallows, Yellow-legged Gulls, a flooded field full of Cattle Egrets, and other birds.

As we drove towards the mountains, we enjoyed the little hill-top villages and gorges of the Apennine foothills. We stopped for a break just inside Abruzzo Province. Soon after, the motorways branched, and we took the A24 towards Pescara, passing the flat plain that is the remains of Lake Fucino, the third largest lake in Italy. We left the autostrada beyond Avezzano, to drop down to Pescina and round the edge of the plain before climbing up into the National Park, noting the bright yellow Laburnum (Laburnum anagyroides), and some hearing Nightingale. Near Gioia Vecchio we could see many spikes of lemon-yellow Sparse-flowered Orchids (Orchis pauciflora). As we dropped down towards Pescasseroli we saw three Red Deer hinds, and later a large solitary male Wild Boar and a Roe Deer in a meadow.

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

We drove through Pescasseroli to the Albergo Paradiso, where we received the usual very warm welcome from Geraldine and Marco. We quickly settled into our rooms and then had a delicioius dinner, during which Jessica outlined plans for the morrow. After a very long day, we then retired to bed.

Day 2 Friday 18th May

Around Hotel; Camosciara; Gioia Vecchio This morning dawned fine and sunny, and some of the group ventured out at 7am, to explore the local area. Tree Sparrows were around the hotel and showed well, as did a Common Firecrest which responded vigorously to a brief snatch of song from Nico’s phone, displaying his firey crest. A Wryneck was heard, Serins were singing and displaying, and a small party of Crossbills flew over. We walked up the track behind the hotel, towards a small hill. On a rocky bank we found the endemic Pansy Viola eugeniae in yellow and deep purple, together with Meadow Saxifrage (Saxifraga granulata), and a Coal Tit was very close in a bush, probably nesting nearby. On the hill slope, we found good numbers of Green-winged Orchids (Anacamptis morio) and Toothed Orchids (Neotinea tridentata) just coming into flower, and Dark Grape Hyacinth (Muscari neglectum). From the hill we had stunning views in all directions, with the cloud partly covering the mountains, and a Brown Hare was seen. An early butterfly was Brown Argus, resting on a Salad Burnet (Poterium sanguisorba) flower.

After breakfast, with the picnic bought, we headed south-east down the valley of the Sangro, past Opi, to our destination of Camosciara, in the heart of the National Park. Having parked the vehicles, we scanned the hillsides, sighting two groups of Red Deer on different mountain slopes. A Golden Eagle flew across Monte Marsicano and over the valley. We set off up the valley, diverting from the path to explore. Among the Juniper (Juniperus communis), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) and Wild Pear (Pyrus pyraster) scrub, we also found some spikes of Lady Orchids (Orchis purpurea) Twayblade (Neottia ovata), Green-winged Orchids, Fly Orchid (Ophrys insectifera), Military Orchid (Orchis militaris), and Early Purple Orchids (Orchis mascula subsp. speciosa) with pointed petals and sepals. They were all growing where there was some protection from grazing. We also noted Nice Milkwort (Polygala nicaeensis), Common Globularia (Globularia vulgaris) and Horseshoe Vetch (Hippocrepis comosa). Orange Tip, Wood White, Duke of Burgundy and Clouded Yellow were added to the butterfly list.

The road was lined by trees and shrubs, including Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea), Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas), Turkey Oak (Quercus cerris), and Goat Willow (Salix caprea), and under these were more Lady and Early Purple Orchids. Blackcap, Chiffchaff and Wood Warbler were singing, Western Bonelli’s Warbler showed well, while Cuckoo and Song Thrush were also vocal, together with the constant accompaniment of Field Cricket. Common Wall Lizards were sunning themselves, while a Western Green Lizard showed briefly round a boulder. On a bank we found False Vetch (Astragalus monspessulanus). By the stream we found some beautiful flowers of the endemic Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana dinarica), together with Sword-leaved Helleborine (Cephalanthera longifolia), and the enormous kidney-shaped leaves and single yellow flowers of Thore’s Buttercup (Ranunculus thora), and Shrubby Milkwort (Polygala chamaebuxus) with red- or yellow-and-white or -magenta flowers. The endemic, large-flowered Camosciara Butterwort (Pinguicula vallis-regiae) was flowering well on the far side of the water, amongst more Gentians. We also stopped to admire and photograph a clump of Lady’s Slipper Orchids (Cypripedium calceolus)

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

just coming into flower by the stream. Another, juvenile, Golden Eagle was seen, and two Roe Deer ran across the road.

We had our picnic on a bridge over a streamlet, enjoying a selection of local cheeses and wines as part of the spread. Refreshed, we carried on, finding the leaves of Green False-helleborine (Veratrum lobelianum), and Apennine Lungwort (Pulmonaria apennina). Mayflies were around us, and butterflies included Brimstone, Scarce Swallowtail, Speckled Wood, and Pearl-bordered Fritillary. We reached the café at the end of the road, before climbing to the waterfalls Cascata delle Tre Cannelle and Cascata delle Ninfe (Cascade of Three Channels and Cascade of the Nymphs). Under the Beech trees (Fagus sylvatica) we found a couple of spikes of Coralroot Orchid (Corallorhiza trifida), and Bear’s Ears (Primula auricula) were flowering, in fine condition, by the second waterfall. A Dipper was seen in flight, and Brown Trout were in a clear pool. We stopped at the café for refreshments, before slowly retracing our steps down the valley, finding a good scattering of black, white-and-yellow caterpillars on Butterbur (Petasites hybridus) leaves, which turned out to be Scarlet Tiger. A Smooth Snake was basking by the gate posts of the Park area.

We returned to the hotel, one bus seeing a Red-backed Shrike en route. After a break, some of the group met to fill in our checklists. After an early, delicious dinner, after which we ventured out again, driving north up the valley to Gioia Vecchio. We were disappointed to learn that we had missed a bear by 10 minutes, but then another one appeared, probably a female, wandering across the slopes on the far side of the valley, disappearing into the trees to reappear shortly after. We watched it for about an hour, until it was really too dark to see any more, and we had to give up, the bear still foraging. We also saw a couple of smaller Wild Boar in the valley bottom, a fine Red Deer stag in velvet, and a hind, and although the light was failing, the Cuckoos and Field Crickets kept calling.

We returned again to the hotel, exhilarated after an excellent first day in the field.

Day 3 Saturday 19th May

Gioia Vecchio; Val Fondillo; Opi A 6.30 start saw Nicola, Jessica and some of the group heading north again towards Gioia Vecchio. It was a beautiful morning, but as we drove up the valley, we went into mist. Wondering whether to continue, we discovered that we emerged from the mist just at Gioia Vecchio, and we could see it in the valley to the south, but the area we were scanning was clear. It was, however, very quiet. We saw a Wild Boar and a Roe Deer, and then we could hear two Roe Deer barking. We also heard Wryneck, saw a Cuckoo en route, and a Black Redstart was singing from the church.

Our main destination today was Val Fondillo, which is adjacent to Camosciara but very different in character. We parked under some willows and set off up the track. On a dry slope we noted Pale Flax (Linum bienne), Southern Red Bartsia (Parentucellia latifolia) Common Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum), and a single spike of the endemic form of Late Spider Orchid (Ophrys dinarica, now classified as Ophrys fuciflora), with one flower out. There were a good number of Red-underwing Skippers, very fresh, and also Berger’s Clouded

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Yellow, a beautiful Glanville Fritillary, Scarce Swallowtail, Large White and a single Common Blue. A little futher on, another dry grassy area held many Dark Grape Hyacinths (Muscari neglectum), and a Western Green Lizard was seen running across and into a Juniper bush. It was later seen on a large sunny branch at the base of the bush, and we all got good views of it; meanwhile, a Violet Carpenter Bee was resting on a sunny rock. On the track was a Longhorn Beetle Dorcadion arenaria marsicana, black, with a double dorsal white stripe.

As we started to move across the valley, we had good views of a couple of Red-backed Shrikes, perched up on trees and bushes, and six or seven were seen in the course of the day. Several Common Buzzards were circling over the hillside. We found many beautiful Green-winged Orchids (Anacamptis morio), plus emerging Toothed Orchids (Neotinea tridentata). On the slopes at the edge of the valley we found the dwarf Spiny Broom (Cytisus spinescens), the small flowered Hoary Rock-rose (Helianthemum oelandicum subsp. incanum), the endemic Pansy Viola eugeniae, and Meadow Saxifrage (Saxifraga granulata). Green Hairstreak, Small Heath, Orange Tip and Dingy Skipper butterflies were noted. A boulder cave by the stream bore the endemic Reddish Saxifrage (Saxifraga porophylla) just coming into flower, Wall-rue (Asplenium ruta-muraria) and Rustyback ferns (Asplenium ceterach), while Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) was growing inside the cave formed by its overhang. Nearby were Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus) and Cut-leaved Dame’s Violet (Hesperis laciniata), stock-like, with rather dirty-yellow flowers. Further along were several beautiful spikes of Military Orchid (Orchis militaris), just opening. A Field Cricket was enticed from its hole, so we could all see how different it looks from Bush Crickets.

To Jessica’s surprise, the bridge we usually cross at this point was not there – apparently it was completely washed away by heavy rain in December, and there was still far too much water in the stream to consider getting across without it. We therefore had a quick change of plan, and continued walking up the track, soon finding a grassy stream-bank spot for our picnic. Refreshed after our delicious lunch, we carried on exploring the valley, adding Round-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga rotundifolia) on a shady bank, and another Red-backed Shrike, and also noting the clouds building. A raised grassy area, maybe having escaped some of the grazing, was a carpet of blue Common Globularia (Globularia vulgaris) and deep purple Green-winged Orchids, with a scattering of paler Toothed Orchids and Military Orchids. We found a Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea) in bud and later, in a marshy area, an Early Marsh Orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata), both just coming into flower. The rain started, although it was only a shower. At the Visitor Centre, we enjoyed hot drinks, as the rain came more heavily.

Leaving the valley, the weather brightened considerably, and we opted to visit the hill-top village of Opi, so we drove up the steep road to the village. We parked on the main street and spent some time exploring and admiring the magnificent views in every direction. We also learnt a little of the sad history of this village. Two Abruzzo Chamois were seen in the Sanctuary area, and Western Bonelli’s Warbler and Black Redstart were below us. Crag Martins were flying round the church, with many Swifts higher in the sky. We then returned to the hotel for another delicious meal, and a quiet evening.

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Day 4 Sunday 20th May

Val di Rose This morning, with the promise of fine weather, we decided to do our high walk, up the Val di Rose. Some of the group were out earlier with Nico, walking along the road near the hotel. They saw Common and Black Redstarts, Common Whitethroat, heard and saw Wryneck, and heard a distant Hoopoe.

After an earlier breakfast, we made our own picnics today, before leaving at 8.45am. We drove back down the Sangro valley, and turned at Villetta Barrea to drive up to Civitella Alfadena, our starting point for the walk. We parked above the village and took path I1, which climbs through a patchwork of forest and glades. Chiffchaff was singing as we climbed steadily, passing Early Purple Orchid (Orchis mascula subsp. speciosa). The views back down the valley, over the lake, were stunning, as well as being encouraging, as we could see how much we had climbed. A little further on, we could no longer see the lake but started getting tantalising glimpses of the mountain tops, with much more snow than in the previous few years. We found a Pale Orchid (Orchis pallens) by the path near a glade. As we climbed higher, we even started to encounter snow in the forest. When we reached the last glade before the tree line, we stopped for a well-deserved rest. The glade held lots of Spring Crocus (Crocus vernus), Alpine Squill (Scilla bifolia) and Lesser Celandine (Ficaria verna), as well as a large snow patch. From here we could also see our first Abruzzo Chamois, resting on a boulder above us. A Fox appeared, obviously looking for food; it even managed to steal a bag containing a couple of bars of chocolate from Jessica’s open and unattended rucksack! Fortunately, it was caught in the act, pursued, and dropped the bag (and the unopened chocolate bars!).

Eventually we reached the tree line, emerging into yet more snow but, where it had gone, amazing flower-filled meadows. The dead grass was a mauve haze with carpets of Spring Crocus and dotted with the intense blue of Alpine Squill and golden Lesser Celandine. Where the snow had been gone a bit longer, there were patches of the endemic pansy (Viola eugeniae), predominantly in shades of purple, mauve and cream. As we approached a boulder, an Aspic Viper was basking and disappeared into a hole in the rock. Another boulder held a beautiful clump of Bear’s Ears (Primula auricula), flowering Mezereon (Daphne mezereum), and emerging endemic Reddish Saxifrage (Saxifraga porophylla). Reinvigorated by such riches, we climbed a short distance further before having our picnic enjoying the fantastic view. A Tree Pipit was singing nearby, and other birds included Northern Wheatear and Black Redstart. A nearby boulder held Cobweb Houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum), and we found some Early Yellow Star-of-Bethlehem (Gagea bohemica) in the grass. The Fox reappeared and had to be warned off our lunch. Several Chough, mainly Red-billed but possibly also a pair of Alpine, not calling, were over the ridge.

We could also see several Abruzzo Chamois, more distant than on some occasions, probably partly due to the distribution of snow and suitable grazing. We watched them skitter across the snow, resting on boulders and grazing, and had some excellent views. We continued to explore the slopes, enjoying these wildlife encounters. After our picnic most of the group opted to walk up to the ridge. As we went, we saw Linnets and Water Pipit feeding at the edge of a snow patch. From the top of the ridge, the views down into Camosciara and away to the west were truly stunning. On the top of the ridge, on the sunnier side, among the Dwarf Mountain Pine (Pinus mugo) and Dwarf Juniper (Juniperus communis var. saxatilis) were white Alpine Pasqueflower (Anemone alpina),

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

mauve Alpine Snowbells (Soldanella alpina); the grassier area held the first Spring Gentians (Gentiana verna), a small clump of the endemic species of Alpine Wood Forget-me-not (Myosotis graui), the endemic Cinquefoil Potentilla rigoana and Apennine Buttercup (Ranunculus apenninus). The endemic Trumpet Gentian (Gentiana dinarica) and tiny Ciliate Rock-jasmine (Androsace villosa) were still in bud.

Eventually, we started our slow descent, In the Beech woods, we found Wolf and Fox scats, and some people had good views of two Green Lizards in a clearing. We all reconvened in the village at the Bar della Lince, where we refreshed ourselves with cool drinks, before returning to the hotel and a quiet evening. It was a strenuous day, but everyone really enjoyed it.

Day 5 Monday 21st May

Gioia Vecchio; Barrea; Lago di Barrea; Passo Godi We awoke to a sunny morning. The early risers were out this morning at 6am, driving to Gioia Vecchio. They saw several Red Deer, including a good view of a stag in the scope. After a while, they moved to Passo Diabolo, seeing Red-backed Shrike, Yellowhammer and Linnets, among other species. Those out near the hotel had good views of Serin, Common and Black Redstarts and a beautiful Cirl Bunting, singing from a wire.

After breakfast we left to drive back to the far end of the lake, to the hillside town of Barrea. We parked in Barrea overlooking the lake, and we could see where we had walked the previous day. Flocks of Swifts were screaming around us, and we could see Great Crested Grebes on the lake, far below. We took the short path which climbs to Barrea Gorge, noting Thick-leaved Stonecrop (Sedum dasyphyllum) just coming into flower on the walls, Italian Catchfly (Silene italica) and the Dandelion-like Cut-leaved Viper’s-grass (Podospermum laciniatum). Some of the bushes of St. Lucie’s Cherry (Prunus mahaleb) and Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) were covered with webs of Orchard Ermine moth caterpillars, and a Glanville Fritillary flew past.

At the gorge, a group of four Red-billed Choughs were flying round and entering the cave opposite, and we had good views of a pair in the scope. Nearby, a Red Deer hind was on a grassy area on the cliff and, on closer viewing, we could see she had a young fawn with her. We watched them for some time, before they moved into the trees. We could also see there a patch of the endemic Marsican Iris (Iris marsica) flowering well. A very distant Red Kite was over the mountain, and another, larger raptor was seen soaring – a Golden Eagle. It was seen to land but walked out of sight and was not relocated. Many Scarce Swallowtails and Pearl-bordered Fritillaries were flying up slopes of the hill and ‘hill-topping’, while other butterflies included Little Blue, Wood White, Wall Brown, Small Heath, Clouded Yellow and a Dark-green Fritillary. Plants included Burnt Orchid (Neotinea ustulata), more Green-winged and Toothed Orchids, the scented, cream-flowered Daphne oleoides, Thick-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga callosa) with dramatic sprays of creamy-white flowers just coming out, Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster integerrimus), and an endemic Houseleek Sempervivum ricci. We were able to look closely at the strange-looking Ascalaphid, then a Scorpion was found (4-5cm long) and a False Widow spider, which very closely resembles the Black Widow, but is not quite so venomous. Eventually, and reluctantly, we moved back down to the village.

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We drove down to the lake side and stopped at a possible orchid site but failed to find any. Common and the much smaller and more fragile-looking Willow-leaved Rock-roses were flowering (Helianthemum nummularium and H. salicifolium), Italian Wall Lizard was seen, Nightingale was singing distantly, and a Hoopoe was calling nearby, but remained elusive. We drove around the lake to a café by the lake side, just over the bridge to Civitella Alfadena, and enjoyed our picnic on the shore. Short-toed Treecreeper was in the trees, and Wryneck and Red- backed Shrike were seen, and Nightingale heard. White Helleborine (Cephalanthera damasonium) was flowering in a glade. In the lake shallows Carp were churning the water as the males were trying to encourage females to spawn.

Refreshed, we drove north out of Villetta Barrea, climbing towards the Passo Godi. We stopped at a road bend, where we noted Man Orchids (Orchis anthropophora), one spike of Late Spider Orchid (Ophrys fuciflora), a good patch of Sword-leaved Helleborine (Cephalanthera longifolia) under a tree, the milkwort Polygala major and Sessile Broom (Cytisophyllum sessilifolium). Moving on, we passed through the ski resort at Passo Godi and parked beyond, at the start of path Y1, at about 1,550 metres above sea level. Here we walked along the track and explored the slopes on either side. Birds included Northern Wheatear. The slopes bore stunning displays of both colour forms, magenta and lemon, of Elder-flowered Orchids (Dactylorhiza sambucina), and lemon-yellow Pale Orchid (Orchis pallens), and we noted some of the differences between them. There were also patches of deep-blue Spring Gentian (Gentiana verna) and the endemic species of Alpine Wood Forget-me-not (Myosotis graui), both further forward than on the ridge at Val di Rose. The opposite slope held an area of Sparse-flowered Orchids, Early Purple, and their hybrids (Orchis pauciflora, O. mascula subsp. speciosa and O. x colemannii), the hybrids showing a range of colour and form. Other plants included more, but tiny, Burnt Orchids, Chamois Ragwort (Senecio doronicum) and an endemic Spurge (Euphorbia gasparrinii subsp. samnitica). The promised afternoon rain started, so we beat a hasty retreat to the minibuses, driving back through a torrential downpour near Opi.

We had a quiet evening, catching up on checklists and enjoying another delicious dinner.

Day 6 Tuesday 22nd May

La Difesa; Vallone Pesco di Lordo; This morning dawned bright, although with more cloud than recently, and with the forecast of rain later in the day. Some of the group were out at 7am round the hotel, enjoying the now-familiar species of the area.

After breakfast, we took the vehicles a short distance to the start of the day’s walk in the Difesa forest. We set off up the track, stopping by a drier bank, in case there were any butterflies on the wing. We didn’t see any, but instead found a Dor Beetle (dead), and adjacent Wolf and Fox scats, enabling us to compare the two. A Sparrowhawk circled overhead. Back on the track, we walked past moss- and lichen-covered boulders and large, old Beech trees. Here, on a decaying tree, we found a large, black, long-horned beetle Morimus asper agg. with very long antennae indicating it was a male, then a slightly smaller one as well; recent studies suggest that Morimus funereus is part of this very variable species. Plants included Round-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga rotundifolia) abundant on boulders, Herb-Paris (Paris quadrifolia), Baneberry (Actaea spicata), still in bud, Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum) and the remains of both Bird-in-a-bush (Corydalis cava) and Yellow Anemones (Anemone ranunculoides). Song Thrush and Chiffchaff were singing loudly, and we had good views of Wood Warbler. We

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arrived at a clearing with enormous water troughs, reminding us of the importance of sheep in the past, and the ‘transhumanza’, as they were moved to Puglia for the winter months. In the stream were strings of fresh spawn of Common Toad, while a fresh Military Orchid (Orchis militaris) was on a tiny island. We had good views of a Western Green Lizard in a bush, and a Marsh Tit was coming down to the stream to drink and bathe. Some very rotten trees held interesting fungi, including Hoof Fungus, Jelly Ear and Honey Fungus, and we could see many insect holes and tunnels. There were also some beautiful clumps of Lungwort lichen.

We turned off the track into the Vallone Pesco di Lordo, an open valley, and could see a number of Wild Boar on the hillside above. We counted 15, grazing and foraging unconcernedly. For much of the year Wild Boar live in matriarchal groups or ‘sounders’, consisting of females of different ages, plus youngsters. Along the path we admired the beautiful blue Speedwell Veronoca orsiniana and carpets of Dark Grape Hyacinths (Muscari neglectum). Up the slope we found several large clumps of the endemic Marsican Iris (Iris marsica), a species restricted to this area, although resembling the ‘ordinary’ Garden Iris (Iris germanica). Some were in a loosely fenced enclosure to discourage the horses grazing nearby, but some were outside, and all were flowering well. We also saw the beautiful pink endemic form of Ashy Crane’s-bill (Geranium austroapenninum). A few drops of rain encouraged us to start to retrace our steps, but it soon passed. A Spotted Flycatcher was seen on the way down. Some of the group chose to explore further and make their own way back to the hotel. The rest of us returned by minibus, as a heavy shower came on.

We enjoyed our picnic in the hotel, with some sitting outside, as the shower had passed. Geraldine explained to us some of the history of the area and the ‘transhumanza’. We then had some free time, with some resting and others heading out for walks, undeterred by the periodic rain. A thunderstorm was, briefly, directly overhead, and the paths and roads became rivers. As the adventurers dried out, others met to update checklists and discuss plans before an excellent early dinner.

Afterwards, we headed out again. The evening had brightened somewhat, although there was still low cloud obscuring most of the mountain tops. In the failing light, we drove slowly north again, as far as the Bisegna road junction. All was very quiet, (apart from the Cuckoos!) so we moved on up the road to the Bisegna viewpoint. A Roebuck was in the meadow; a group of three Red Deer hinds were in a glade on the other side, and we heard Tawny Owl, a snatch of Quail and probable Common Frog. Just as it was becoming too dark to see, a black shape on a far hillside revealed itself to be a Wild Boar. We also found some enormous purple orchids, which could be Lady x Early Purple hybrids, before we returned to the hotel.

Day 7 Wednesday 23rd May

Gioia Vecchio; Pescasseroli; Castel Mancino; Orchid Meadow; Passo Diabolo The morning was damp and cloudy, and the first group left at 6am to return to Gioia Vecchio, but it was very misty there, so they moved on to the Bisegna Viewpoint. The highlight of their morning was a sighting of a large family group of Wild Boar close to the road, with five adults and 30+ piglets, as well as seeing Red Deer. Another group went out at 7am, seeing a stag and two Red Deer hinds in the mist at Gioia Vecchio, and a pair of Bullfinches.

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Wednesday is market day in Pescasseroli, so we spent some time looking round the town this morning, doing some shopping and exploring the old parts with their narrow streets and alleys. Our main destination was Castel Mancino, so we drove up to the town cemetery, where we parked under the trees and started our walk. As we climbed through the coniferous woodland, we had heard Coal Tit and Western Bonelli’s Warbler. Some Bird’s- nest Orchids (Neottia nidus-avis) were coming out under the trees, and a surprise was a fine Naked Man Orchid (Orchis italica) by the path. In the open areas many Adriatic Lizard Orchids (Himantoglossum adriaticum) were still in tight bud, but then we found a couple just coming into flower beautifully. Nearby, we found a couple of spikes of Dark Ophrys (Ophrys sphegodes subsp. atrata) and a single spike of Early Spider Orchid (Ophrys sphegodes). We also added a Sparse-flowered Orchid (Orchis pauciflora) and some Man Orchids (Orchis anthropophora). Butterflies were very scarce because of the weather, but a Clouded Yellow and a Small Elephant Hawk-moth were found. We enjoyed the views from the top of the hill, and the remains of the mediaeval castle, but the drizzle turned to rain, although it was only brief. We retraced our steps, with some returning in a loop through a meadow back to the buses. A Red-backed Shrike was seen well by some, and Wryneck was calling.

We returned to the hotel for our final picnic, before heading back to Pescasseroli for pudding: traditional ‘gelati’ all round as the rain eased. We then drove back north of the town, to a spot just past the Bisegna road junction. This steep but delightful flower-filled meadow is an excellent area for orchids and, although the vegetation was very wet, the rain generally held off and we spent an enjoyable afternoon exploring its riches. There were some surprisingly small and spindly Lady Orchids (Orchis purpurea), together with carpets of Burnt Orchids (Neotinea ustulata) and a good number of Toothed Orchids (Neotinea tridentata), plus some fascinating hybrids between them (Neotinea x dietrichiana), with a hybrid swarm showing a range of intermediate characteristics. The Nice Milkwort (Polygala nicaeensis) here grows in a variety of shades of magenta, blue and white, and the Horseshoe Vetch (Hippocrepis comosa) adds yellow. Fragrant Orchids (Gymnadenia conopsea) and Adriatic Lizard Orchids were still in very tight bud, but we found a recognisable Lesser Butterfly Orchid (Platanthera bifolia). Insects included a Green Tiger Beetle, a Field Cricket and a Baton Blue butterfly. It came on to rain again heavily as we started to return to the vehicles.

We moved on to Passo Diabolo, as the rain stopped, and we walked down the track through the stony, free- draining meadow. Red-backed Shrike was seen again, and Yellowhammer, Corn Bunting, Woodlark and Skylark were singing, and a Hoopoe was calling. New plants included White Rock-rose (Helianthemum apenninum) and Alpine Stork’s-bill (Erodium alpinum), there were a couple of spikes of Elder-flowered Orchids (Dactylorhiza sambucina), Lady Orchids, Military Orchids and probable hybrids (Orchis x hybrida). A couple of Red Deer were seen on the opposite hill-slope and, as we were about to leave, a distant group of more Wild Boar were spotted. As we returned through Pescasseroli, a Fox crossed the road in front of us.

We returned to the hotel for a final, delicious dinner. Afterwards Nicola took some of the group out for a night drive, seeing several Common Toads and a Red Fox.

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Day 8 Thursday 24th May

Pescasseroli to Rome and onwards. After an early breakfast, we loaded the buses and said our farewells and thanks to Marco and the staff at Albergo Paradiso, who had looked after us so well, leaving at 7am. It was very misty, but the sun was already starting to burn it off. We drove back through the park, still watching, just in case…

We took the route through Bisegna to Pescina and the autostrada, enjoying the rain-washed scenery. An Apennine (also known as Corsican) Hare crossed the road into the forest and, a little further on, another glimpse was almost certainly the same species; they are slightly smaller, with relatively shorter ears, and more tolerant of a woodland habitat than Brown Hare. Three Turtle Doves flew over, and a Red Deer hind was by the road near Pescina. We tooked the northerly ring-road round Rome, arriving at the airport in good time, where we said farewell to two of the group who were staying in Rome, Nico and Jane who had internal flights, and Jessica who was meeting another group. The rest of us checked in for our journeys home, with many happy memories of the fascinating area that is the Abruzzo National Park.

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Species Lists

Plants (* = a species is endemic)

Nomenclature contained within this list follows the taxonomic amendments, based on DNA analysis, made by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and the Missouri Botanic Garden, and following The Plant List, an internationally accepted list of vascular plant families, published and maintained by these two Institutions.

Scientific name Common name Location

PTERIDOPHYTES FERNS & ALLIES Leptosporangiate Ferns True Ferns Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family Asplenium ceterach Rusyback Near Hotel Asplenium ruta-muraria Wall-rue Val Fondillo Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Camosciara

Cystopteraceae Bladder-fern Family Cystopteris fragilis Brittle Bladder-fern La Difesa

Polypodiaceae Polypody Family Polypodium vulgare agg. Common Polypody La Difesa

GYMNOSPERMS CONIFERS Cupressaceae Juniper Family Juniperus communis Common Juniper Camosciara Juniperus communis var. saxatilis Dwarf Juniper Val di Rose

Pinaceae Pine Family Pinus mugo Dwarf Mountain Pine Val di Rose Pinus nigra subsp. italica* Villetta Barrea Black Pine Camosciara Pinus nigra subsp. nigra Austrian or Black Pine Villetta Barrea Pinus sylvestris Scots Pine Castel Mancino

ANGIOSPERMS FLOWERING PLANTS Eu-dicots True Dicotyledons Adoxaceae Moschatel Family Sambucus ebulus Dwarf Elder Camosciara Sambucus nigra Elder Roadsides Viburnum lantana Wayfaring Tree Val Fondillo

Apiaceae Carrot Family Aegopodium podagraria Ground Elder Camosciara Anthriscus sylvestris Cow Parsley Castel Mancino Conium maculatum Hemlock Castel Mancino Eryngium amethystinum Blue Eryngo Val Fondillo Sanicula europaea Sanicle Camosciara

Apocynaceae Periwinkle Family Vincetoxicum hirundinaria Swallow-wort Near Hotel

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Aralaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix Ivy Barrea

Betulaceae Birch Family Corylus avellana Hazel Camosciara

Boraginaceae Forget-me-not Family Cynoglossum magellense* a Hound's-tongue Vallone Pesco di Lordo Cynoglossum montanum Mountain Hound's-tongue Val Fondillo Cynoglottis barrellieri an Anchusa (Blue) Widespread Myosotis graui* Alpine Wood Forget-me-not Val di Rose Myosotis incrassata - Near Hotel Myosotis sylvatica Wood Forget-me-not La Difesa Onosma echioides A Golden-drops Roadsides Pulmonaria cf apennina* A Lungwort Camosciara Solenanthus apenninus* Solenanthus Camosciara

Brassicaceae Cabbage Family Alliaria petiolata Garlic Mustard Camosciara Alyssum diffusum* a Yellow Alyssum Passo Diabolo Alyssum simplex (minus) an Alyssum Barrea Gorge Arabis caucasica Alpine Rock-cress Val di Rose Arabis hirsuta Hairy Rock-cress Val di Rose Arabis turrita Towercress Val Fondillo Aubrieta columnae subsp. columnae* Aubrieta Passo Godi Barbarea sp. A Wintercress Camosciara Cardamine bulbifera Coralroot Camosciara Cardamine chelidonia a Bitter-cress (Purple) Camosciara Cardamine enneaphyllos Drooping Bitter-cress Camosciara Cardamine impatiens Narrow-leaved Bitter-cress La Difesa Draba aizoides Yellow Whitlow-grass Val di Rose Erysimum pseudorhaeticum* a Treacle Mustard Near Hotel Hesperis laciniata Cut-leaved Dame's Violet Val Fondillo Isatis tinctoria Woad Roadsides Lunaria redivida Perennial Honesty Val Fondillo Nasturtium officinale Watercress Val Fondillo

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Dipsacus fullonum Wild Teasel Camosciara Lonicera alpigena Alpine Honeysuckle Camosciara Lonicera caprifolium Perfoliate Honeysuckle Camosciara Lonicera xylosteum Fly Honeysuckle Camosciara Valeriana montana Mountain Valerian Camosciara Valeriana tuberosa Tuberous Valerian Passo Godi

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Cerastium tomentosum Snow-in-Summer Widespread Dianthus carthusianorum Carthusian Pink Near Hotel Silene conica Sand Catchfly Hotel car park Silene dioica Red Campion Val Fondillo

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Silene italica Italian Catchfly Barrea Gorge Silene latifolia White Campion Camosciara Silene pendula Nodding Catchfly Above Vittetta Barrea Silene pusilla an Alpine Catchfly Opi

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Helianthemum apenninum White Rockrose Passo Diabolo Helianthemum nummularium Rockrose Lago di Barrea Helianthemum oelandicum subsp. incanum Hoary Rockrose Val Fondillo Helianthemum salicifolium Willow-leaved Rockrose Lago di Barrea

Compositae (Asteraceae) Daisy Family Bellidastrum michelii False Aster Val di Rose Bellis perennis Daisy Camosciara Bellis sylvestris Southern Daisy Val di Rose Carlina acanthifolia Acanthus-leaved Carline Thistle Val Fondillo (remains) Carlina acaulis subsp. simplex "Stemmed" Stemless Carline Thistle Val Fondillo (remains) Carlina vulgaris Carline Thistle Val Fondillo (remains) Cirsium tenoreanum a Woolly Thistle Val Fondillo Doronicum columnae Heart-leaved Leopard's-bane Val di Rose Eupatorium cannabinum Hemp Agrimony Camosciara Leucanthemum vulgare Ox-eye Daisy Val Fondillo Petasites hybridus Butterbur Camosciara Pilosella officinarum Mouse-eared Hawkweed Val Fondillo Podospermum canum a Cut-leaved Viper's-grass Barrea Gorge Senecio doronicum Chamois Ragwort Passo Godi Tragopogon pratensis A Goat's-beard Roadsides

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Convolvulus cantabrica Pink Bindweed Roadsides near Pescina Cuscuta epithymum Common Dodder Val Fondillo

Cornaceae Dogwood Family Cornus mas Cornelian Cherry Camosciara Cornus sanguinea Dogwood Camosciara

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Sedum dasyphyllum Fat-leaved Stonecrop Barrea Gorge Sempervivum arachnoideum Cobweb Houseleek Val di Rose Sempervivum riccii* A Houseleek Barrea Gorge

Cucurbitaceae Gourd Family Bryonia dioica White Bryony Barrea Gorge

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia amygdaloides Wood Spurge La Difesa Euphorbia cyparissias Cypress Spurge Hotel Euphorbia gasparrinii subsp. samnitica* An endemic Spurge Passo Godi Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge Camosciara Euphorbia myrsinites Glaucous Spurge Near Hotel

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Fagaceae Beech Family Fagus sylvatica Beech Common Quercus cerris Turkey Oak Camosciara Quercus pubescens Downy Oak Camosciara

Gentianaceae Gentian Family Gentiana cruciata Cross Gentian Near Hotel (leaves) Gentiana dinarica* a Trumpet Gentian Camosciara Gentiana lutea Great Yellow Gentian Passo Godi (leaves) Gentiana verna Spring Gentian Passo Godi

Geraniaceae Crane’s-bill Family Erodium alpinum Alpine Stork's-bill Passo Diabolo Erodium cicutarium Common Stork’s-bill Hotel Geranium austroapenninum* (subcaulescens) Ashy Crane’s-bill Vallone Pesco di Lordo Geranium dissectum Cut-leaved Crane’s-bill Lago di Barrea Geranium macrorrhizum Rock Crane's-bill Val di Rose Geranium purpureum Little Robin Camosciara Geranium robertianum Herb Robert Camosciara

Grossulariaceae Gooseberry Family Ribes uva-crispa Gooseberry Val Fondillo

Lamiaceae Deadnettle Family Ajuga reptans Bugle Camosciara Clinopodium (Acinos) alpinum Alpine Basil Thyme Castel Mancino Lamiastrum galeobdolon Yellow Archangel Camosciara Lamium album White Dead-nettle Camosciara Lamium garganicum Large Red Dead-nettle Near Hotel Lamium maculatum Spotted Dead-nettle Camosciara Melittis melissophyllum Bastard Balm Camosciara Mentha aquatica Water Mint Val Fondillo Mentha longifolia Horse Mint Val Fondillo Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary Camosciara Satureja montana Winter Savory Above Villetta Barrea Thymus oenipontanus Wild Thyme Camosciara

Leguminosae (Fabaceae) Pea Family Anthyllis vulneraria agg. Kidney Vetch Barrea Gorge Astragalus monspessulanus False Vetch Camosciara Astragalus sempervirens Mountain Tragacanth Val di Rose Coronilla scorpioides Annual Scorpion Vetch Lago di Barrea Cytisophyllum sessilifolium Sessile Broom Above Villetta Barrea Cytisus (Chamaecytisus) hirsutus Hairy Broom Val Fondillo Cytisus (Chamaecytisus) spinescens Spiny Hairy Broom Val Fondillo Hedysarum coronarium Italian Sainfoin Roadsides Hippocrepis comosa Horseshoe Vetch Camosciara Laburnum anagroides Laburnum Roadsides Lathyrus setifolius Red Grass Vetchling Val Fondillo Lathyrus vernus Spring Pea Val di Rose

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Lotus corniculatus Bird's-foot Trefoil Lago di Barrea Onobrychis viciifolia Sainfoin Lago di Barrea Pisum sativum Wild Pea Near La Difesa Spartium junceum Spanish Broom Roadsides Trifolium nigrescens A small white clover Camosciara Vicia villosa subsp. varia Pink Fodder Vetch Near Hotel

Lentibulariaceae Butterwort Family Pinguicula vallis-regiae* Camosciara Butterwort Camosciara

Linaceae Flax Family Linum bienne Pale Flax Val Fondillo

Oleaceae Olive Family Fraxinus ornus Flowering Ash Camosciara

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family Euphrasia agg. Eyebright Castel Mancino Orobanche gracilis Slender Broomrape Orchid Meadow (emerging spike) Parentucellia latifolia Southern Red Bartsia Val Fondillo Pedicularis hoermanniana a Leafy Lousewort Camosciara Rhinanthus minor agg. Yellow Rattle Val Fondillo

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Chelidonium majus Greater Celandine Val Fondillo Corydalis cava a Bird-in-a-bush La Difesa (in seed) Papaver argemone Prickly Poppy Barrea Gorge Papaver rhoeas Common Poppy Roadsides

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Hotel Globularia vulgaris Common Globularia Camosciara Plantago atrata Dark Plantain Val di Rose Plantago media Hoary Plantain Camosciara Veronica beccabunga Brooklime Vallone Pesco di Lordo Veronica chamaedrys Germander Speedwell Val Fondillo Veronica orsiniana a Speedwell Vallone Pesco di Lordo

Plumbaginaceae Thrift Family Armeria canescens Plantain-leaved Thrift Near Hotel

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala chamaebuxus Shrubby Milkwort Camosciara Polygala major A Milkwort Above Villetta Barrea Polygala nicaeensis Nice Milkwort Camosciara

Polygonaceae Knotweed Family Rumex acetosella Sheep's Sorrel Val di Rose

15 © Naturetrek May 18

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Primulaceae Primrose Family Androsace villosa Ciliate Rock-jasmine Val di Rose (in bud) Cyclamen hederifolium Common Sowbread Near Hotel (leaves) Primula auricula Bear's-ear Camosciara Soldanella alpina Alpine Snowbell Val di Rose

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Actea spicata Baneberry La Difesa Anemone (Pulsatilla) alpina Alpine Pasque Flower Val di Rose Anemone ranunculoides Yellow Anemone La Difesa Aquilegia vulgaris Columbine Camosciara Delphinium fissum a Delphinium Camosciara (leaves) Ficaria verna agg. Lesser Celandine Val di Rose Helleborus foetidus Stinking Hellebore Camosciara Hepatica nobilis Hepatica Camosciara (leaves) Ranunculus apenninus Apennine Buttercup Val di Rose Ranunculus bulbosus Bulbous Buttercup Camosciara Ranunculus millefoliatus Million-leaved Buttercup Val di Rose Ranunculus monspeliacus - Val Fondillo Ranunculus pencillatus Stream Water Crowfoot Val Fondillo Ranunculus serpens subsp. nemorosus Wood Buttercup La Difesa Ranunculus thora Thore's Buttercup Camosciara Thalictrum aquilegifolium Great Meadow-rue Camosciara Thalictrum simplex

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Rhamnus alpina Alpine Buckthorn Passo Godi Rhamnus pumila Dwarf Buckthorn Val di Rose

Rosaceae Rose Family Alchemilla glaucescens a Lady's Mantle Passo Godi Aremonia agrimonoides Bastard Agrimony Camosciara Cotoneaster integerrimus Wild Cotoneaster Barrea Gorge Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Camosciara Fragaria vesca Wild Strawberry Camosciara Geum urbanum Wood Avens Castel Mancino Malus sylvestris Crab Apple Camosciara Potentilla detommasii A Sulphur Cinquefoil Barrea Gorge Potentilla rigoana* a Cinquefoil Val di Rose Prunus mahaleb St. Lucie's Cherry Barrea Gorge Prunus spinosa Blackthorn Camosciara Pyrus pyraster Wild Pear Camosciara Rosa canina agg. Dog Rose Camosciara Rubus fruticosa agg. Bramble La Difesa Rubus idaeus Raspberry Val Fondillo Sanguisorba minor Salad Burnet Camosciara Sorbus aria Whitebeam Val Fondillo Sorbus aucuparia Rowan Barrea (planted)

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The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Cruciata laevipes Crosswort Camosciara Galium odoratum Woodruff Val di Rose Sherardia arvensis Field Madder Val Fondillo

Salicaceae Willow Family Populus nigra agg. Black Poplar Val Fondillo Salix alba White Willow Camosciara Salix caprea Goat Willow Camosciara

Santalaceae Sandalwood Family Thesium divaricatum A Bastard Toadflax Val Fondillo Viscum album Mistletoe Camosciara

Sapindaceae Maple Family Acer campestre Field Maple Camosciara Acer monspessulanum Montpelier Maple Camosciara Acer opalus Italian Maple Camosciara Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore Val di Rose

Saxifragaceae Saxifrage Family Saxifraga bulbifera Bulbous Saxifage Passo Godi Saxifraga callosa Thick-leaved Saxifrage Barrea Gorge Saxifraga granulata Meadow Saxifrage Camosciara Saxifraga porophylla* Reddish Saxifrage Val Fondillo Saxifraga rotundifolia Round-leaved Saxifrage Val Fondillo Saxifraga tridactylites Rue-leaved Saxifrage Hotel

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Scrophularia canina subsp. canina Dog (French) Figwort Near Hotel Scrophularia vernalis Yellow Figwort La Difesa Verbascum mallophorum a large branched Mullein Val di Rose (leaves) Verbascum pulverulentum Hoary Mullein La Difesa Verbascum thapsus Aaron’s Rod La Difesa

Thymelaeaceae Daphne Family Daphne laureola Spurge Laurel Camosciara Daphne mezereum Mezereon Val di Rose Daphne oleoides - Barrea Gorge

Urticaceae Nettle Family Urtica dioica Nettle Val Fondillo

Violaceae Violet Family Viola alba subsp. dehnhardtii A Violet (mauve) Camosciara Viola eugeniae* a Pansy Val Fondillo

Monocots Monocotyledons Amaryllidaceae Daffodil Family Allium saxatile Rock Onion Val Fondillo

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Galanthus nivalis Snowdrop La Difesa (leaves)

Araceae Arum Family Arum italicum subsp. neglectum Large Cuckoo Pint Vallone Pesco di Lordo Arum maculatum Cuckoo Pint Camosciara

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family Leopoldia (Muscari) comosa Tassel Hyacinth Val Fondillo Muscari neglectum Dark Grape Hyacinth Near Hotel Ornithogalum umbellatum Common Star-of-Bethlehem Camosciara Polygonatum multiflorum Solomon’s Seal Near Hotel Scilla bifolia Alpine Squill Val di Rose

Colchicaceae Autumn Crocus Family Colchicum lusitanum an Autumn Crocus Camosciara (leaves)

Iridaceae Iris Family Crocus vernus Spring Crocus Val di Rose Iris marsica* Marsican Iris Vallone Pesco di Lordo

Liliaceae Lily Family Gagea bohemica Early Yellow Star-of-Bethlehem Val di Rose

Melanthiaceae Herb-Paris Family Paris quadrifolia Herb-Paris Camosciara Veratrum lobelianum Green False-helleborine Camosciara (leaves)

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Anacamptis morio subsp. morio Green-winged Orchid Camosciara Cephalanthera damasonium White Helleborine Lago di Barrea Cephalanthera longifolia Sword-leaved Helleborine Camosciara Corallorhiza trifida Coralroot Orchid Camosciara Cypripedium calceolus Lady's Slipper Orchid Camosciara Dactylorhiza fuchsii Common Spotted Orchid Camosciara (leaves) Dactylorhiza incarnata Early Marsh Orchid Val Fondillo Dactylorhiza sambucina Elder-flowered Orchid Passo Godi Gymnadenia conopsea agg Fragrant Orchid Val Fondillo (in bud) Himantoglossum adriaticum Adriatic Lizard Orchid Castel Mancino Neotinea (Orchis) tridentata Toothed Orchid Val Fondillo Neotinea (Orchis) ustulata Burnt Orchid Barrea Gorge Neotinea x dietrichiana (N.tridentata x ustulata) Hybrid Orchid Meadow Neottia ovata Twayblade Camosciara Neottia nidus-avis Bird's Nest Orchid Camosciara Ophrys fuciflora subsp. fuciflora Late Spider Orchid Above Villetta Barrea Ophrys fuciflora subsp. fuciflora (O. dinarica) A Late Spider Orchid Val Fondillo Ophrys insectifera Fly Orchid Camosciara Ophrys sphegodes subsp. atrata (incubacea) Dark Ophrys Castel Mancino Ophrys sphegodes subsp. sphegodes Early Spider Orchid Castel Mancino Orchis anthropophora Man Orchid Above Villetta Barrea Orchis italica Naked Man Orchid Castel Mancino

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

Scientific name Common name Location

Orchis mascula subsp. speciosa (O. ovalis) an Early Purple Orchid Camosciara Orchis x colemannii (O. mascula x pauciflora) Hybrid Orchis Passo Godi Orchis mascula x purpurea Hybrid Orchis Bisegna Viewpoint Orchis militaris Military Orchid Camosciara Orchis x hybrida (O. militaris x purpurea) Hybrid Orchis Passo Doabolo Orchis pallens Pale-flowered Orchid Passo Godi Orchis pauciflora Sparse Flowered Orchid Passo Godi Orchis purpurea Lady Orchid Camosciara Platanthera bifolia Lesser Butterfly Orchid Orchid Meadow

Poaceae Grass Family Festuca vivipara Viviparous Fescue Val di Rose

Xanthorrhoeaceae Asphodel Family Asphodelus alba White Asphodel Bisegna Viewpoint Asphodeline lutea Yellow Asphodel Roadsides

FUNGI Lecanoromycetes LICHENS Lobaria pulmonaria Lungwort La Difesa Basidiomycetes Fomes fomentarius Hoof Fungus La Difesa Armillaria mellea Honey Fungus La Difesa Auricularia auricula-judae Jelly Ear La Difesa

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only)

May Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 Mallard Anas platyrrhynchos  2 Common Quail Cortunix cortunix H 3 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus  4 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea  5 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis  6 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos   7 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus   8 Red Kite Milvus milvus  9 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo       10 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis  11 Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia        12 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus      13 European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur  14 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus H   H H H H 15 Tawny Owl Strix aluco H 16 Common Swift Apus apus        17 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops H H H 18 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla H H   H H 19 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major H 20 European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis H H   21 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus   

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 22 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio      23 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius    24 Common Magpie Pica pica         25 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax    26 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus  27 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula   28 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix         29 Northern Raven Corvus corax  30 Coal Tit Periparus ater   H  H 31 Marsh Tit Poecile palustris H H  32 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus H H   H  33 Great Tit Parus major   H    34 Woodlark Lullula arborea H H 35 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis  H 36 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica         37 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris   38 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum         39 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus  40 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita H H  H  H 41 Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli   H H  H 42 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix H H  43 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla H  H H H H H 44 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis  H H 45 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus  H H H H LOH 46 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes H  H H  47 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea LOH H 48 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla LOH   49 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris       50 Common Blackbird Turdus merula         51 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos H H H H H H 52 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus  53 European Robin Erithacus rubecula H H H    54 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos H H H 55 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros     56 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus LO      57 European Stonechat Saxicola torquata     58 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oeneanthe   59 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicarpa striata  60 White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus  61 Italian Sparrow Passer italiae         62 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus        63 Grey Wagtail Montacilla cinerea H  LO 64 White Wagtail Montacilla alba      65 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis  66 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta  67 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs         68 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula H H H  69 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris H H  

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 70 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina     71 Red Crossbill Loxia curvirosta  72 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis        73 European Serin Serinus serinus        74 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra H H H   75 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella   76 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus H H  

MAMMALS (D= Dead; S = Sign (Includes Scats / Droppings)

1 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes 1 S 1 1 2 Grey Wolf Canis lupus S S S S 3 Marsican Brown Bear Ursus arctos marsicanus 1 4 Least Weasel Mustela nivalis 1 5 Red Deer Cervus elaphus 3  1  4 8 1 6 European Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus 1 3 1 1 3 1 7 Apennine or Abruzzo Chamois Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata 2 c15 8 Wild Boar Sus scrofa 1 2 1 S S 15 40+ 9 Brown Hare Lepus europaeus 1 10 Apennine (Corsican) Hare Lepus corsicanus 2 11 Bank Vole Clethrionomys glareolus 1 12 Snow Vole Microtus nivalis S

Reptiles & Amphibians:

1 Common Toad Bufo bufo Spawn 2 Italian Stream Frog Rana italica  3 Western Green Lizard Lacerta bilineata      4 Common Wall Lizard Podarcis muralis      5 Italian Wall Lizard Podarcis sicula  6 Smooth Snake Coronella austriaca  7 Asp Viper Vipera aspis 

Fish:

1 Brown Trout Salmo trutta   2 Common Carp Cyprinus carpio 

Butterflies (N = Nymph; L = Larva; C = Caterpillar; D = Dead)

1 Swallowtail Papilo machaon    1 Black-veined White Aporia crataegi C 2 Large White Pieris brassicae     3 Small White Pieris rapae    4 Green-veined White Pieris napi  5 Eastern Bath White Pontia edusa   6 Orange Tip Anthocharis cardamines     7 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea      8 Berger's Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis   9 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni   10 Wood White Leptidea sinapis   

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 11 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi   12 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas  13 Little Blue Cupido minimus   14 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus  15 Baton Blue Pseudophilotes baton  16 Brown Argus Aricia agestis    17 Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus  18 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus   19 Duke of Burgundy Fritillary Hamearis lucina  20 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta   21 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui      22 Dark Green Fritillary Argynnis aglaja  23 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia  24 Pearl-bordered Fritillary Boloria euphrosyne   25 Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia   26 Lesser Spotted Fritillary Melitaea trivia C 27 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus     28 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria  29 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera    30 Red-underwing Skipper Spialia sertorius  31 Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages 

Micro Moths

1 A dark Longhorn Moth Adela reaumurella  2 Orchard Ermine Yponomeuta padella  3 White-spotted Black Eurrhypis pollinalis 

Macro Moths

4 Six-spot Burnet Zygaena filipendulae C 5 Eastern Eggar Eriogaster catax C 6 Franconian Lackey Malacosoma franconica C 7 Speckled Yellow Pseudopanthera macularia  8 Small Elephant Hawk-moth Deilephila porcellus  9 The Tiger Atlantarctia tigrina C

10 Scarlet Tiger Callimorpha dominula C

Other Invertebrates

1 Broad-bodied Chaser Libellula depressa  2 Stonefly Perlidae sp.  3 Roesel's Bush-cricket Metrioptera roeselii  N 4 Field Cricket Gryllus campestris H   5 Black-shouldered Shield Bug Carpocoris purpureipennis  6 Hairy Shield Bug Dolycoris baccarum  7 Crucifer Shield Bug (3 spots) Eurydema oleracea  8 Red and black Shield Bug Graphosoma lineatum ssp. italicum  9 Brassica Shield Bug Eurydema oleracea  10 A red & black Ground Bug Spilostethus saxatilis 

The Apennines: Italy's Abruzzo National Park Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 11 Thorn-hopper / Horned Treehopper Centrotus cornutus  12 Red and black Froghopper Cercopis vulnerata  13 Ascalaphid Libelloides coccajus  14 Scorpion Fly Panorpa sp. (cf. communis)  15 Giant Cranefly Tipula maxima  16 Bee Fly Bombylius sp. (cf. major)    17 Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea   18 White-tailed Bumblebee Bombus lucorum    19 Common Carder Bee Bombus pascuorum   20 Green Tiger Beetle Cicindela campestris    21 Four-spotted Hister Hister quadrimaculatus  22 Maid of Kent Emus hirtus  23 Blue Stag Beetle Platycerus caraboides   24 Dor Beetle Geotrupes stercorarius D 25 Cockchafer Melolontha melolontha 

26 Red and Black Beetle Trichodes alvearius  27 Glow-worm Lampyris noctiluca  28 2-Spot Ladybird Adalia bipunctata L

29 Oil Beetle sp. Meloe sp.  30 a Longhorn Beetle (large & black) Morimus asper agg. 

31 a Longhorn Beetle (white stripe) Dorcadion arenarium marsicana   32 Striped Millipede Ommatoiulus sabulosus  33 Scorpion Euscorpius flavicaudis  34 False Widow Spider Steatoda paykulliana 

La Difesa Veronica orsiniana