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Notes on the Physiography of Southern India Author(S): B Notes on the Physiography of Southern India Author(s): B. R. Branfill Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography, New Monthly Series, Vol. 7, No. 11 (Nov., 1885), pp. 719-735 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1801408 . Accessed: 12/06/2014 20:39 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) and Wiley are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 185.2.32.58 on Thu, 12 Jun 2014 20:39:26 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions NOTES ON THE PH7SI0GRAPHY"OF SOUTHERN INDIA. 719 land, if the rivers of themselves are sometimes apt to rnake changes for the worse. As they make their way across the broad low plains of India, which they have helped to make, they let us see the wealth of their resources for good or evil. Oontrolled and guided, led and regulated, they serve to show instructively the power of man's influence on the physical as well as the political geography of a eountry. Notes on the Physiography of Southern India. By Col. B. B. Bkanfill, late Deputy-Superintendent, Survey of India. (Read to the GeographicalSection of the BritishAssociation at Aberdeen, September11th, 1885.) The part of India on which I have been invited to offer some notes, culled from the recollection of many years' service passed there, lies to the south of lat. 15?. It is the apex of the Peninsula, and coincides nearly with the Madras Presidency of British India. It is a beautiful eountry, displaying a charming variety of surface and scenery. Its elimate, though tropical, is mild and generally agreeable, being almost insular, and subject to the breezy influences of the two monsoons. It is an epitome of all India, in its lofty hills and extensive plains, its flooding rivers and dwindling lakes, its fertile flats and sterile wastes, its tropical jungles and its scrubby wilderness. Southern India is an interesting field of observation for the scientific inquirer, and especially for the physiographer, on account of the elements of physical change it displays in ceaseless activity. For, we have first, the decomposing and disintegrating power of the sun's rays, vertical here twice in the year; secondly, we have the long continued strong winds, that scour the surface and transport immense volumes of dust to great distances in the air, and, by means of the waves, along the sea-shore; and thirdly, the dissolving and denuding force of a tropical rainfall. Frost is only known upon the high plateaux and mountains, and the violent earthquake is almost unknown, but the agencies just mentioned seem fully adequate, in process of time, to convert a vast plateau of igneous rock into the subdued and diversified area we now behold. For our present purpose, Southern India may be divided into three tracts or regions. Firstly, the mountainous region of the Ghats, including the higher tablelands, and the great upland plains of Mysore, eontained between the brows of the Western and Eastern Ghats. Secondly, the lowlands of the Malabar coast, all that narrow tract of moist seaboard between the foot of the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea ; and, thirdly, the comparatively wide and dry lowland plains of the Carnatic, between the eastern foot of the Ghats and the Bay of Bengal. The first is the highland tract, wide in the north, but tapering to a This content downloaded from 185.2.32.58 on Thu, 12 Jun 2014 20:39:26 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 720 NOTES ON THE PHYSIOGRAPHY OF SOUTHERN INDIA. point at Cape Comorin, that completely separates the other two. The latter differ more, however, from the effects of the seasons than they do from their geographical position. The year in Southern India has three distinct seasons: the south-west monsoon, from May to September; the north-east monsoon from October to February; and the hot season, from March till May, between the two monsoons. The term monsoon is our rendering of the Arabic word mausim, which properly means season. The south-west monsoon is the most striking and beneficent fact of the climate, for it brings the rains, that revive all living things, when almost parched to death by the hot season, and that fill the rivers and lakes, which fertilise the land and temper the ardent rays of the vertical sun. The amount of the rainfall is very uncertain, and occasionally there is little or none, except on the Ghats. The dates of its commencement and ending are equally uncertain; but the icind of this monsoon is most regular in its onset, force, and continuance. It blows with the force of a strong breeze for four months, from May to September, all over the Arabian Sea, from the south-west. Within 80 or 100 miles of the west coast it becomes a westerly wind, and so continues across the Peninsula. On first striking the coast and ascending the abrupt barrier-wall of the Ghats, it loses its excess of moisture, which falls in torrents of rain on their sides and summits, until it has passed the crest of the heights. It then continues its eastward course, as a cool, moist breeze at first, but gradually gets warmer and drier, until at last it becomes a fierce hot wind, a veritable sirocco. In the Bay of Bengal, the wind of this season becomes southerly, and afterwards blows up the valley of the Ganges as a south-east or easterly wind, almost diametrically opposite to its course over Southern India. The wind of the south-west monsoon is usually supposed to be the great continental sea-breeze of Southern Asia, induced by the excessive rarefaction of the air over the interior and most heated portions of the continent; and so, doubtless, it is; but in the marked deviations from the normal direction, just noted, we see an anomaly, the reason for which is not so obvious. The south-west monsoon dies out fitfully in September, and after a short interval, is succeeded by the north-east monsoon, which is supposed to be only the normal trade wind. It is ushered in by storms and heavy falls of rain, which replenish the rivers and tanks, to the east of the Ghats, and render the cultivation of all the unirrigated plains possible. The north-east monsoon usually lasts till February, accom- panied by some spells of rainy weather, which rapidly bring to per- fection the cold-weather crops, as they are called. Of cold there is really none, except on the mountains, but the day temperature is very pleasantly cool, and the nights are quite chilly. This content downloaded from 185.2.32.58 on Thu, 12 Jun 2014 20:39:26 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions NOTES ON THE PHYSIOGRAPHr OF SOUTHERN INDIA. 721 In February the cool northerly breezes fail, and the days get warm. The cold-weather crops are harvested, and all its vegetation rapidly dries up. The succeeding hot-weather months, March, April, May, may be briefly but fitly described as hot, hotter, hottest. But the heat of Southern India is seldom very great or oppressive, being tempered, at first by the land- and sea-breezes, which prevail at this time of year, and later by occasional dust-storms and thunder-storms, frequently accompanied by heavy showers, which cool and clear the hazy atmosphere most agreeably. These occur so regularly between the middle of April and the middle of " May, that they are often termed the petty monsoon" rains; a mis- nomer, of course, except that they are thought seasonable at a time when the regular monsoon breezes are out of season. They are rather accidental tornadoes, and are by the natives termed tufdn, our word " * typhoon." The best time for visiting Southern India is from September to March, but the naturalist, the explorer, and the physical observer, need not be deterred from making a prolonged tour, as, by taking advantage of the variety of climate offered by the hill tracts, the upland plateaux, and the lowland plains, and visiting each at its best season, the whole year round may be spent in a comparatively cool and enjoyable climate, without incurring any serious danger or discomfort. Without laying down any fixed time or precise route, we may advan- tageously go over some of the most interesting physical features of the country, as follows, commencing with the extreme north-west of the country under notice, Let us proceed by sea down the west coast of India, merely noting the endless panorama of beautiful scenery; a surf-beaten shore-line, sometimes bold with dark rocks or bright-red laterite cliffs; sometimes lightened with a brilliant streak of shining yellow sand, but always backed up by the luxuriant foliage of endless groves of coco-nut palm and evergreen bush, completely concealing the narrow belt of lowlands to the very foot of the Ghats, which raise their dark cliffs and lofty summits, at a few miles distance inland, their skirts and valleys clothed with primeval forest.
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