Hair--Curvy Or Straight; Cosmetology 1: 9205.04

DOCUMENT RESuiE

ED 097 507 CE 002 275

TITLE Hair--Curvy or Straight; Cosmetology 1: 9205.04. INSTITUTION Dade County Public Schools, Miami, Fla. PUB DATE Mar 73 NOTE 41p.; An Authorized Course of Instruction for the Quinmester Program

EDPS PRICE MF-$0.75 HC-$1.85 PLU: POSTAGE DESCRIPTORS Behavioral Objectives; *Cosmetology; Course CL.ntent; Course Descriptions; *Curriculum Guides; Performance Criteria; Post Secondary Education; Secondary Grades; Skill Development; Trade and Industrial Education; Vocational Education IDENTIFIERS Florida; Hair Dressing; *Quinmester Program

ABSTRACT Permanent curling and straightening require a thorough understanding of hair. Through diligent study and practice the student prepares for a profitable part of a beauty career. The course requires 135 hours of classroom- laboratoryinstruction. Those entering must have mastered the skills of shaping and conditioning hair. On completion of the course, the student will have an understanding of hair analysis, shampooing and shaping of hair, and will have learned the different types 3f cold waving lotions and their effects on various types of hair, as well as developing skill in all cold wave techniques. The student will have learned safe, correct techniques for straightening curly hair usingdifferent chemical hair relaxers on all types of hair. A basic textbook and student laboratory manual are used, and the use of films, filmstrips, charts, and other aids augments the instruction. A bibliography listing basic and supplementary references and 23 pages of posttest samples complete the course description. (MW) Lf` ITT:1_4111r

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AUTHORIZED COURSE OF INSTRUCTION FOR THE UI

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Course Outline COSMETOLOGY 1- 9205 (Hair-Curvy ur Straight) Department 48 - Ouin 9205.04

DIVISION OF INSTRUCTION1913 .1 THE SCHOOL BOARD OF DADE COUNTY

Mr. G. Holmes Braddock, Chairman Mr. William H. Turner, Vice-Chairman Mrs. Ethel Beckham Mrs. Crutcher Harrison Mrs. Phyllis Miller Mr. Robert Renick Dr. Ben Shepparl

Dr. E. L. Whigham, Superintendent of Schools Dade County Public Schools Miami, Florida 33132

March, 1973

Published by the School Board of Dade County DADE COUNTY PUBLIC SCHOOLS

1 4 5 0 NORTHEAST SECOND AVENUE

MIAMI, FLORIDA 33132

Course Outline

COSMETOLOGY 1 - 9205 (Hair-Curvy or Straight)

Department 48 - Quin 9205.04

county office of

VOCATIONAL AND ADULT EDUCATION Course Description

Hair-Curvy or 9205 48 9205.04 Straight State Category County Dept. County Course Course Title Number Number Number

Through participation of this unit, the student will demonstrate a knowledge of hair analysis, shampooing and shaping of hair, and will learn the different types of cold waving lotions and their effects on various types of hair, as well as acquire skill in all acid wave techniques. Practice on iannequins and patrons will be stressed.The students learn safe, correct techniques for straighteninr curly hair using different chemical hair relaxers on all types of hair. This is a three auinmester credit course.

Prior to entry into this course, the vocational student will display mastery of the skills indicated in Shaping and Conditioning Hair. (9205.03). PREFACE

The following pages contain a course outline entitled Hair-Curvy or

Straight.

Permanent curling and straightening require a thorough understanding of hair. Through diligent study and practice the student is rewarded with satisfactory results and prepares for a profitable part of a beauty career.

This quinmester is presented to the student in 135 hours of classroom-laboratory instruction.

The outline is divided into 7 blocks of instruction which are further broken down into a number of units. Upon completion of the course, the student will have an understanding of hair analysis, shampooing and shaping of hair, and will have learned the different types of cold waving lotions and their effects on various types of hair, as well as develop skill in all cold wave technioues. The student will have learned safe, correct techniques for straightening curly hair using different chemical hair relaxers on all types of hair.

Further development of these skills will be maintained throughout each quin. The student will perform these skills in a shop like atmosphere

on other students and patrons.

The teaching methods may vary according to the individual ability of the student. As the contents of the course varies, teaching techniques which lend themselves to each particular situation are employed. The

instructor used demonstrations and lectures which are supplemented by the nerformance of laboratory experiments and assignments by the students.

A bgqic textbook and student 11boratory nanual are used throughout the course. The instruction is further augmented by the use of films, filmstrips, charts and other aids which make the lessonsmore meaningful.

The bibliography, which makes up the lastpages of the outline, lists the basic and supplementary reference textsand films.

The outline was developed through theco- operative efforts of the instructional and supervisory personnel,the Quinmester Advisory

Committee and the Vocational Curriculum MaterialsService and has been approved by. the Dade County Vocational CurriculumCommittee.

ii TABLE OF CONTENTS with Suggested Hourly Breakdown

Page

PREFACE GOALS iv SPECIFIC BLOCK OBJECTIVES BIBLIOGRAPHY 5

BLOCK

I. PERMANENT WAVING NORMAL HAIR (35 Hours) The History of Permanent Waving 1 Basic Fundamentals Before Cold Waving 1

Chemical and Physical Action of Cold Waving . . . 1 Safety Precautions in Cold Waving 1 Procedure for Normal Hair 1

II. TINTED, BLEACHED OR PROBLEM HAIR IN COLD WAVING (35 Hours) Fundamental Differences 2 Safety Precautions 2 Procedure for Tinted, Bleached and Problem Hair . 2

III. COLD WAVE CHEMISTY (10 Hours) Changes in Hair Structure 2 Alkaline Solutions 2 Neutral and Acid Solutions 2 Under-Processed Hair 2 Over-Processed Hair 3 Damaged Hair 3

IV. KNOWLEDGE AND ANALYSIS OF HAIR (10 Hours) Hair Structure 3 Hair Analysis 3

V. CHEMICAL RELAXERS (25 Hours) Chemical Hair Relaxing 3 Basic Products Special Types of Relaxes Safety Precautions Retouching

VI. DEVELOPMENT OF MANIPULATIVE SKILLS (15 Hours)

VII. QUINMECTER POST TEST (5 Hours)

APPENDIX: QUINMESTER POST TEST SkTLES 8

iii GOALS

The student cosmetologist will be able to:

1. Explain the principles of permanent waving.

2. Discuss the physical and chemical actions of permanent waving related to hair structure.

3. List by written test the safety precautions requiredin permanent wave procedures.

4. Demonstrate the proper procedure in cold waving normal, tinted,bleached and problem hair.

5. Define terms related to chemical hair relaxing.

6. Demonstrate the process of relaxing normal and damaged hair.

7. Explain the safety precautions which should be observed in chemical relaxing.

8. Develop skill in performinp the manipulative techniauesreauired in the practice of cosmetology.

9. Satisfactorily complete the post test. SPECIFIC BLOCK OBJECTIVES

BLOCK I - PERMANENT WAVING NORMAL HAIR

The student will be able to:

1. Demonstrate an understanding of the history of permanent waving by satisfactorily completing written test. 2. List the basic fundamentals before a cold wave procedure. 3. State orally the procedure renuired for cold waving. 4. State orally the difference between the physical and chemicei action for cold waving. 5. List the safety precautions used when giving a cold wave to a model. 6. Demonstrate on a model the proper procedure for cold waving hair.

BLOCK II - TINTED, BLEACHED OR PROBLEM HAIR IN COLD WAVING

The student will be able to:

1. Demonstrate on a model the chemical effects of cold waving lotions on tinted, bleached and problem hair. 2. Demonstrate the ability to use cold wave chemicals correctly and safely on tinted, bleached and problem hair. 3. List the safety precautions used in cold waving tinted, bleached and problem hair.

BLOCK III - COLD WAVE CHEMISTRY

The student will be able to:

1. List the effect of cold wave solutions on the hair structure. 2. Discuss the difference between alkaline cold wave solutions and neutral and acid solutions. 3. Explain why under-processing and over-processing in a cold wave occurs. 4. Demonstrate on a model corrective treatments for tinted, bleached and problem hair. 5. Discuss at what point clawed hair occurs when giving a cold wave permanent.

BLOCK IV - KNOWLEDGE AND AnALYSIS OF HAIR

The student will be able to:

1. Explain hair structure and how it is effected by permanent waving. 2. Demonstrate the ability to analyze hair. 3. List the factors which must, be considered in hair gnalysis prior to a'cold wave treatment. BLOCK V - PERMANENT WAVING FOR PRESSED HAIR

The student will be able to:

1. Explain the difference between permanent waving pressed hair and chemically relaxing normal hair. 2. Demonstrate on a model a chemical hair relaxing procedure. 3. Explain and satisfactorily demonstrate on a model the procedure for the two basic types of hair relaxers. 4. List the safety precautions used in chemical relaxing. 5. Demonstrate on a model the procedure of a chemicalrelaxing treatment.

BLOCK VI - DEVELOPMENT OF MANIPULATIVE SKILLS

The student will be able to:

1. Complete on a model the pattern sets that are considered tobe classic sets. 2. Produle satisfactorily on a model or a mannequinall of the types of cufls that are required in styling the hairusing thermal curling. 3. Construct on a model a hairstyle that will be aspecial consideration for various characteristics of individuals. Course Outline

COSMETOLOGY 1- 9205 (Hair-Curvy or Straight)

Department 48 - Quin 9205.04

I. PERMANENT WAVING NOR; TAL HAIR

A. The History of Perranent Wavinr 1. Definition of permanent wavinr 2. :!ethods of permanent waving a. Spiral b. Croauit'nole c. Combinations d. "!achine method e. Pre-heat method f. Cold wave

B. Basic Fundamentals Before Cold Waging 1. Pre-cold wavinr steps a. Examine scalp and analyze hair b. Shampoo for a cold wave c. Sharinr before a cold wave 2. Relationship to the success of a cold wave

C. Chemical and Physical Action of Cold Waving 1. Tvo ma,ior actions on the hair a. Physical action b. Chemical action 2. The 'function of chemical and physical action

D. Safety Precautions in Cold Waving 1. Practicinr safety procedures 2. Developing safety procedures into habit

E. Procedure For Normal Hair 1. Basic Renuirerents a. Hair 4.nalysis b. Curlinr rods and chemical c. Hair sectioninr patterns d. flair 1-lockin and wraprinr e. Applic9ticm of wavinr lotion f. Procensinr r. Test curls h. :.eutralizinr afety menrl'Iros 2. :'elc and ?eference Card a. Lx-1:?nation or release statement and reference card b. Inportlne of release staement and reference card II. TINTED, BLEACHED AND rroBLEfT HAIR INCOLD WAVING

A. Fundamental Differences 1. Characteristic reaction of tinted, bleached andproblem hair in cold waving a. Condition b. Porosity c. Texture d. Elasticity 2. Relationship to the success of cold waving tinted,bleached and problem hair

B. Safety Precautions 1. Practicing safe procedures 2. Developing safe msocedures into safe habits

C. Procedure For Tinted, Bleached and ProblemHair 1. Basic Requirements a. Hair analysis b. Curling rods and chemicals c. Hair sectioning patterns d. Hair blocking and wrapping e. Applying waving lotion f. Processing g. Test curls h. Neutralizing i. Safety measures 2. Special Problems a. Dry, brittle or damaged hair b. Reconditioning treatments c. After care

III. COLD WAVE CHEMISTRY

A. Changes in Hair Structure 1. The breaking of 3 and Ii bonds a. Waving lotion b. Precautions in usir.r wave lotion 2. 'The reforming of cross bonds a. Neutralizing b. New C bonds are formed

B. Alkaline Solutions 1. Definition of alkaline solutions 2. The chemical action 3. Neutralizers used

C. Neutral and Acid 7,olutions 1. Definition of neutral and acidsolutions 2. The chemical action 3. Neutralizers used

D. Under-Processed Hair 1. Definition 2. Curl formation and tiring 3. Factors affecting under-processing

-2- E. Over-Processed Hair 1. Definition 2. Maximum processing time 3. Factors affecting over-processing

F. Damaged Hair 1. Irreversible damage a. Cuticle scales b. Texture and elasticity c. Peptide (acid bond) breakage 2. Corrective Treatments a. Preventive b. Restorative treatments c. Hair Shaping

IV. KNOWLEDGE AND ANALYSIS OP HAIR

A. Hair Structure 1. Composition of hair a. Protein composition b. Chemical composition 2. Division of Hair a. Hair root b. Hair shaft 3. Ctructures a. Follicle b. Papilla c. Bulb 4. Associated structure a. Arrector rili muscle b. Sebaceous glands 5. Growth and replacement of hair 6. Life and density of hair 7. Color of hair 8. Directional hair growth a. Hair stream b. Whorl c. Cowlick

B.. Hair Analysis 1. Use of five senses 2. Quality of human hair a. Texture b. Pr:rosity c. Elasticity d. Condition e. Density

V. CHEMISTRY RELAXERS

A. Chemical hair relaxing~ 1. N,)r,..911 hid r a. Irrortance of hair analysis b. Basic stens in relaxing, normal hair 2. Pressed hair a. Dil"orences in nressed hair b. Basic steps in relaxing pressed hair 3. Tinted hair a. Differences in tinted hair b. Basic steps in relaxing tinted hair

B. Basic Products 1. Chemical hair relaxers a. Softening action b. Swelling action 2. Neutralizers (fixatives or stabilizers) a. Hardening action b. Shrinking action

C. Special Types of Relaxers 1. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) a. Different products and manufacturers directions b. Procedure 2. Ammonium ti: oglycolate (thio) a. Comparison with sodium hydroxide relaxers b. Procedure

D. Safety Precautions 1. The practice of safety nrocedures a. hair analysis b. Skin and strand tests c. Reference cards 2. Importance of Safe Habits a. Protection of patron b. Protection of operator

E. Retouching 1. New growth a. Definition b. Procedure 2. Safety Precautions a. Importance of each step in retouching b. Necessity for safety precautions

VI. DEVELOPMENT OF MANIPULATIVE SKILLS

A. Fingerwaving

B. Pin Curling

C. Patterns of Hair 7ieii.--n

D. Hair Sharing

E. Scalp and Hair Conditioning

VII.O.UIVESTEP. POST TEST

APPOIDIX: QUIII!!ESTETI POST TEST CASTLES BIBLIO(IRAPHY (Hair-Curvy or Straight)

Basic References:

1. Colletti, Anthony B. Cosmetology the Keystone Guide to Beauty Culture. Nev York: Keystone Publications, Inc., 1970. Pp. 286.

2. Powitt, A. H. Pair Structure and Chemistry Simplified. New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 1972. PD. 303.

3. Standard Textbook of Cosmetology. New York: Milady Publishing Corn., 1972. Pp. 494.

4. Swaton, Norman J. Chemistry for Cosmetology Students. California: Intron, Inc., 1969. Pp. 127.

Supplementary References:

5. Beauty Book of Knowledre. New York: American Hairdresser Publish- ing Co., Inc., 1958. Pt. 128.

6. Colletti, Anthony. Cosmetology the Keystone luide to Beauty Cul- ture. New York: Keystone Publications, Inc., 1970. Pp. 287.

7. Educational Bulletin //I-Hair Straightening. Sacramento, California: California State Board of Cosmetology, 1966. Pp. n.p.

8. Goodman, Herman. Principles of Professional Beauty Culture. New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 1939. Pp. 2 0.

9. Jones, Ruth. Practical Prenaration for Beauty Culture.New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 1938. Pp. n.p.

10. Lowman, J. Chemistry in Your Beauty Shop. New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 1955. Pp. 356.

11. Montarna, William, and Ellis, Richard A. The Biology of Hair Growth. New York: Academic Press, Inc., 1958. Pp. 520.

12. Murray, Anne. Theory of Cosmetology. New York: Milady Publish- ing Corp., 1957. Pp. '366.

13. Spencer, Gerald. Cosnetolory in the Negro. New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 191;4. Pp. 10.

14. Progressive Manual of Cosretnlogy. Third ed. Maywood, California: Glendora Stingley, 1959. PD. 328.

15. ':orkbook .:,eauty ClltIro Theory and Practice. New York: Milady Publishing Corp., 1967. Pp. 152. Periodicals:

16. American Hairdresser. Chicago: American Hairdresser Co., Inc. Monthly.

17. Beauty School Management. Los Angeles: School-Industrial Press, Inc.

18. Beauty Trade. New York: Calvin News Service. Monthly.

19. Dez. Teaneck, New Jersey: Murray Murdock. Monthly.

20. Modern Beauty Shop. Chicago: Modern Beauty Shop, Inc. Monthly.

21. National Beauty School Journal. New York: Milady Publishing Corp. Monthly.

22. Salon Owner. New York: Professionable, Inc. Monthly. Job Sheets Bulletin: Cosmetology Education Department of Education Tallahassee, Florida

Job Sheet Title

Number

1. "Permanent Waving- Cold Wave" 8. "Finger Waving and Hair Styling Hair Straightening - Chemical"

Job Sheets Miami: Division of Vocational, Technical, and Adult Education, Dade County Public Schools

Job Sheet Title

Number

20. "Permanent Waving (Cold Wave)" 21. "Permanent Waving Tinted and Bleached Hair" 26. "Lontay Creme Hair Straightener- EntireHead" 27. "Chemical Straighteninr for Damaged Hair"

Dade County Films: Film Ordering No.

1. Instruction Film on Permanent Waving, 16mm, sound. 7.34

2. Chemical Hair Relaxing, Virgin Hair, Tinted Hair and Touch-up, 16mm, sound. 7.44 4

APPENDIX

Quinmester Post Test Samples Quinmester Post Test

Name Date Score

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Cold Waving Test #1.-

Complete the following statements with the correct word or groups of words.

1. Cold waving is the process of permanently waving the hair with the

use of

2. Cold waving involves two major actions on the hair, namely:

a. action

b. action

3. Hair develops and maintains its natural form by means of

and cross-bonds in the cortical layer.

4. Processing breaks the and bonds, while

reforms them.

5. By means of a scalp and hair analysis, the cosmetologist can betterjudge the difference in the quality and condition of human hair. Which six qualities should the cosmetologist observe in human hair analysis?

6. The processing time for an colt', wave depends much more onhair

than on any other factor.

7. Hair re"ers to the individual size of the hair

strand and its degree of coarseness or fineness.

8. Hair is the ability of the hair to stretch and

contract.

-.9- 9. Hair density is the amount of hair strands per square inch. Always

avoid blocks on a thin hair growth.

10. Hair cannot successfully be permanent waved if the hair strand is long-

er than inches.

11. The distance through the center of the rod is called the

12. The is the distance around the rod.

13. Cold wave rods range in circumference sizes from inches to

inches.

114. There are two types of rods in general use: concave and

15. Which type of rod is used to create the same size curl throughoutthe

entire hair strand?

16. The basic ingredient of a cold wave lotion is

17. What is the purpose of using a protein filler prior to a cold wave

treatment?

18. The main ingredient of a neutralizer is

19. Neutralizers come in three various forms.

20. Dividing the head into uniform working panels is called 3

while subdividing these panels is called

21. What factor determines the size of the wave formation?

22. The four popular blocks used in cold waving are:

d. 23. The chemical process of the cold waving procedure depends upon two separate lotions:

The produces the curl formation

by rearranging the chemical bonds in the hair. The

reforms the chemical bonds and rehardens the hair in its new curled position.

24. There are two methods of neutralizer application:

b. 11.11111

25. After the hair has been properly neutralized, make sure the hair is

rinsed with first water, followed with a

water rinse.

Safety Rules and Reminders When Giving a Cold Wave

Complete the following sentences.

26. Analyze the and before giving a

cold wave.

27. Eliminate vigorous and of the scalp before a

cold wave.

28. Always the hair before giving a cold wave to give a

shaped style.

29. When applying waving lotion, be sure the curls are thoroughly

30. Do not allow patron to sit in a while hair is processing.

31. Always follow instructions.

32. Do not use a rinse immediately after a cold wave.

33. If lotion gets into patron's eyes, wash with then apply

_if necessary.

34. A cold wave cannot be given over a dye.

35. What solution is used for curl reduction? Oxinmester Post Test

Name Date Score

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Cold Wave Test - Procedure for a Cold Wave

Place the correct letter from Column II in Column I, putting the correct procedure in their correct order.

COLUMN I COLUMN II

1. a. Section and block hair

2. b. Shamnoo and thoroughly rinse hair, towel dry 3. c. Blot excess moisture from the hair 4. would on the rods, with absorbant towel 5. d. Apply protective cream or cotton 6. around patron's hair line

7. e. Examine scalp and hair

8. f. Unwind rods and remove carefully, towel dry and set hair 9. g. Shape hair 10. h. Apply cold wave lotion to rods, test 11. curl immediately, process for reauired time 12. i. Rinse hair with tepid water, then 13. cool water

J. Apply neutralizer and retain for reauired time

k. Processed to wrap the hair

1. Prepare materials and drape patron

m. Follow clean up procedure Quinmenter Post Test

Name Date Score

Hair-Curvy or Strai!ht

Part I Cold Waving

1. The purpose of neutralizing is to:

a. soften the hair b. harden the hair c. change the hair shape d. allou the hair to assume the shape of the rod

2. How many solutions are used in cold wavin?

a. 4 b. 3 c. 2 d. 1

3. The choice of rods for a cold wave are determined by:

a. hair texture and elasticity b. hair porosity length c. the amount of curl desired d. the condition of the patron's hair

4. In blocking the hair for a cold wave which pattern can be used?

a. sine le halo b. double halo c. straight back d. any of the above patterns

5. Too much hair around the rods will result in:

a. hair breakage b. increased penetration of the lotion c. tight curls d. uneven wave formation

6. Stretching the hair during the cold wave wrapping will cause:

a. a srooth curl b. better penetration of the lotion c. breakage d. an even curl 7. Hair ends wrapped smoothly on Porous end papers will prevent:

a. curl formation b. fish hooks c. processing d. neutralizing

8. A method of determining in advance how a patron's hair will react is by means of:

a. test curls b. application of the neutralizer c. straight back wrapping d. single halo wrapping

9. How far from the scalp should the cold wave solution be applied?

a. two inches b. one inch c. one-half inch d. none of the above

10. How soon should the curl be checked after application ofthe cold wave solution?

a. ten minutes b. five minutes c. immediately after application d. refer to reference card and follow timing

11. The firmness and depth of the "S" pattern:

a. governs the neutralizing time b. governs the processing time c. is not important in cold wave d. is always the same

12. If the hair is very curly when wet and frizzy whendry is a result of:

a. processing b. under-processing c. over-processing d. neutralizing

13. Improper neutralizing will result in:

a. a tight wave b. deep ridged patterns c. over-processing d. under-processing

11. Vhich of the following should be avoidedbefore cold waving?

a. hair analysis b. shampooing c, brushing d. shaping -14- 15. An important first step in cold waving is to:

a. arrange supplies b. seat patron c. shampoo the hair d. shape the hair

16. In cold waving tinted or bleached hair, the solution should be applied:

a. before wrapping the hair b. while you are wrapping the hair c. after wrapping the hair d. none of the above

17. Small hair sections and small rods are rec"mmended for:

a. coarse hair b. fine hair c. bleached hair d. tinted hair

18. If a cold wave band presses arainst the hair it will:

a. rroduce a smooth pattern b. insure a tirht curl c. lossen the rod d. cause breakage

19. The two major actions involved in cold waving are:

a. chemical and physical b. shampooing and dryinr C. processing and neutralizing d. none of the above

20. Thin, fine hair usually rroduces a:

a. no pattern b. deep pattern c. shallow pattern d. curly pattern

21. Pick-up curls are usually given:

a. at the nape b. at the crown c. in alternating patterns d. in circular patterns

22. A dropped crown produces:

a. a deep wave b. body curls c. a curly effect d, a smooth effect

-15- 23. Cold wave solutions:

a. soften the hair b. should be used carefully c. vary in strength d. all of the abov'e

24. Reapplication of the cold wave solution during the processing time:

a. will hasten the cold wave process b. will not affect timing c. will slow the cold wave d. is undesirable

25. A cold wave reference card:

a. is of no value b. should be given to the patron c. should be filed in the salon d. is the same as a release statement

Fart II - Hair Analysis and Safety

26. The elility of the hair to absorb moisture is called:

a. porosity b. density c. texture d. condition

27. Hair with poor porosity:

a. requires a longer processing time b. requires a short processing time c. absorbs chemicals quickly d. is found in normal hair

28. Soft, limp, spongy hair are signs of:

a. good elasticity b. poor elasticity c. curly hair d. straight hair

29. If the hair stretches without breaking it is an indication of:

a. hair density b. poor elasticity c. good elasticity d. poor porosity

30. Fine textured hair feels:

a. coarse b. wiry c. harsh d. soft -16- 31. Hair analysis uhuuld be given:

a. before the cold wave b. after the cold wave c. one month before the cold wave d. one month after the cold

32. Hair with extreme porosity requires:

a. a strong cold wave solution b. a mild cold wave solution c. a normal cold wave solution d. none of the above

33. If the hair cuts easily when dry this indicates that the hair is:

a. elastic b. resistant c. porous d. wavy

34. A strong firm cold wave will not develop in:

a. normal hair b. springy hair c. coarse hair a. 2:1-7 ha;.,

35. The more porous the hair is:

a. the smootner the curl b. the slner it absorbs the solution c. the more processing time is required d. the less processing time is required

36. if the hair has lost its elasticity:

a. it will not absorb linuids b. there will be very little curl c. there will be no curl in the hair d. the hair 'will feel harsh

37. Hair density refers to:

a. the amount of hair on the scaly b. the ability to abborb chemicals c. the amount of rods in the hair d. the color of the hair

38. When the cuticle layers lay close to the hair shaft thehair is:

a. porous b. resistant c. elastic d. dense

-17- 39. Hair elasticity:

a. always remains the same b. changes from time to time c. is not affected by shampoo d. is not important in cold waving

40. Resiliency in a curl refers to:

a. spring and elasticity b. porosity and absorbency c. texture d. condition

41. The patron's clothing is protected by:

a. careful application of the solution b. proper shampooing c. careful brushing d. proper draping

42. A draft or air conditioning in a salon will:

a. not affect the cold wave b. hasten the action of the cold wave c. slow the action of the cold wave d. cause a tight curl in the hair

43. Vigorous brushing and massage will:

a. not :Lf fext scalp cate scalp irritation c. is recurnetdcd before a cold wave 4. is alway5 given to a patron

44. Nonmal strength'solation on blc,Lched hair:

a. will cause breakage b. will not. .affect the hair c. is used professionally d. is sometimes used

45. A heavy cream conditioner used before a cold wave:

a. is always recommended b. will sometimes affect the waving action c. is very expensive d. none of the above

46. Breakage or discoloration mar result when a cold wave is given to hair treated with:

a. metallic dye b. aniline derivative dye c. color rinse d. conditioner 47. ;Then in doubt about a natron's hair vhnt is recommended?

a. a conditioner L. a shaninr c. a shampoo d. a test curl

48. If a patron resue3ts a hair tint and cold wave on the same day:

tint first h. cold wave first c. share first d. advise against it

49. The use of metallic bowls in cold wavinr will:

a. not affect the hair b. caure some discoloration c. strenrthen the solution d. none of the above

50. Ileat arnlied nrior to a cold wave Trill:

a. irrrove the curl b. affect the shening c. irritate the seals d. relax the patron

Part III Cherintry of Cold. 1:avinr

51. The penetration of the cold wave wavinr solution into the cortex must be:

a. controlled by the onerator b. aDnlied after neutralization c. slow for best results d. rapid and uniform

52. In cold waving, the decision to apply waving solution before or after winding the hair cn the rods, will depend unon:

a. the condition of the hair, texture and norositv b. the speed of the operator to wrap the hair c. the strength and tame of cold wave solution used d. a, t, and c are correct

53. 1!hen the rrocessinr of hair in cold wavinr has reached a satisfactory stage, the next to iu:

a. to annly neutralizer b. tc rinse, with rater and towel Hot c. to apply additional waving lotion d. to remove the rods from the hair 54. The main function of a neutralizer is to:

a. ad.lust rolyrertide chains b. reform the "h" bonds c. reform the "s" bonds d. reform the peptide bonds

H 55. The typical p range for alkaline cold wave solutions is:

a. 4.0 to 7.0 b. 5.5 to 7.5 c. 9.2 to 9.8 d. 10.5 to 11.5

56. ieutralizers used in cold wavinr are rich in:

a. nitroren atoms b. hvdroren ators c. oxyren atoms d. sulphur atoms

57. Most cold wave neutralizers contain:

a. proteins b. conditioners c. hydroren peroxide d. hydroxide atoms

58. If neutralizer is applied before a sufficient number of chemiCal bonds of the cortex have been broken, the hair will be:

a. under-processed b. overprocessed c. frizzy d. broken

59. If cold wave processinr is continued beyond the stare of what might be considered over-rrocessed, hair will be:

a. loosily curled b. :thiney and lu:A.rous. c. darared and cannot be corrected d. damared and can Le corrected

6o. when the imbrications of the cuticle laver are far apart, the hair will have:

a. rood elaoticit- b. a 1,irh1:. recitant condition c. a porous condition d. no perosit7 at all 61. Then rivinr a cold ws.ve treatment it is best to rive the cold wave in a room that is:

-1. cold b. very hot c. warm d. air conditioned

62. When a cold'ave rermnment VRVC is riven in an overly air-conditioned salon there is a possibility of:

n. the hair beinr over-processed b. the hair beinr kinky c. a shorter processinir tire d. a longer nrocessinr time

63. The purpose of rinsing and towel blotting the hair after nrocessinr has taken place is to:

a. remove excess wavinr lotion from the heir b. help harden the cortex c. neutralize the hair d. keen the wavinr solution locked in

64. When nermanently waved hair is exnosed to sunlight, the wave is:

a. deepened b. weakened c. unaffected d. encouraged

65. Physiological conditions such as old age, pregnancy, long illness, etc, will:

a. cause the hair to rrow more raridly b. not affect the permanent wave rrocess c. affect the permanent wave rrocess d. helps the permanent wave rrocess

66. Prior to riving a cold wave, it is best to condition the hair, to heir:

a. restore the cuticle b. increase the porosity of the hair c. equalize the rorosity of the hair d. restore the medulla

67. Cuticle damare is rot likely to occur due to:

a. acid treatments h. alkpline treatments c. rrotein treatments d. neutral chemical treatments 68. Excess waves can be removed fror over-proccessed hair bycombing through with additional:

'water b. conditioner c. neutralizer d. processing solution

69. Thio-type cold wave lotionsbreak "s" bonds andcan also:

a. break end bonds b. close cuticle imbrications c. condition the hair d. strengthen the hair

70. The waving action of cold waving solutions acts mainlyupon the:

a. cuticle b. medulla c. cortex d. cuticle scale

Part IV Chemical hair Relaxing

71. In chemical hair straightening, the processing- time is determinedby: a. the strength of cherical used b. the condition fo the cuticle c. the texture of hair d. a, b, and c are correct

72. Chemically straightening the hairwith a "thio" product mostclosely resembles:

a. hair pressing b. heat Permanent waving c. cold waving d. thermal curlinr

73. After the rrocessinr cream is applied to the hair, the hairstrands are arranged in a straight position by:

a. the neutralizer b. hard and comb manipulation c. the processing cream d. condition

74. After the hair has been treatedwith a sodium hydroxiderelaxer and prior to the application of theshannoo the hair should be

a. thoroughly corbed b. thoroughly dried c. thorourh1, rinsed d. thoroughly brushed

-cc-nn 75. Before arplyinr a "thio" type chemical hair relaxer, the hair should be:

a. shampooed b. neutralized c. dryed d. brushed

76. If chemical relaxer is applied for hair which has been hot-combed treated it would result in:

a. over curly hair b. hair breakage c. tangled hair d. hair discoloration

77. A sodium hydroxide chemical hair relaxer, if left on the skin may:

a. feel cool to the skin b. feel soothing to the skin c. discolor the skin d. irritate the skin

78. The action of the chemical hair relaxer is to cause the hair to:

a. swell and soften b. shrink c. harden and set d. form new curls

79. The scalp and skin are rrotected from possible burns in chemical relaxing by:

a. applyini7 gentian violet jelly to the scale b. appl7inp a stabilizer to the scalp c. applying soar to the scalp d. applying- a base to the scaln

80. When left on the hair lonrer than ten minutes, sodium hydroxide chemical relaxer can:

a. restore the medulla b. become beneficial to the hair c. dissolve the hair d. shrink the cuticle

81. The neutralizer used following a thio-type chemical hair relaxer:

a. is neutral in nature b. is mildly acid c. is mildly alkaline d. is none of the above 82. In the case of thio-type hair relaxers, the nrocess that reforms broken "s" bonds is known as:

a. reduction b. hydrolysis c. oxidation d. processing

83. In order to determine whether or not the patron is'allergic to the chemical relaxer give

a. neutralizer test b. hair test c. strand test d. patch test

84. Chemical hair straightening rerresents a:

a. surface change b. oxidation change c. nhysical change d. chemical change

85. Combing out tangles from the hair after a chemical relaxing treatment may cause hair:

a. reversion b. discoloration c. breakage d. straightness Ninnester Post Test

Name Date Score

Chemistry of Cold Waving -

True or False

1. A shampoo cleanses and prepares the hair for cold waving.

2. Cold wave solution may be applied before or after winding the hair. 3. Different types of neutralizers have different purposes.

4. Normal cold waving alters only half the original "S" bonds in- to a wave. 5. The two main types of cold waving solutions are alkaline solutions and neutral and acid solutions. 6. Ammonium thloglycolate solutions are weak reducinp apents.

7. Neutralizers are rich in oxygen.

8. Cold wave solutions contain hydrogen peroxide.

9. Most of these type neutralizers are mild acid solutions.

10. The pH of cold wave solutions is 3.0 to 4.0.

11. The difference between alkaline and acid cold wave solutions is the neutralizer. 12. Excess curl can be rerioved by combing processinp solution through the curls followed by a water rinse and neutralizer. 13. Over-processing causes irreversible damage.

14. In cold waving, cross bonds rust be broken and keratin chains arranged. 15. If the curls are neutralized too soon, the hair will be overprocessed. 16. Chemical chanres take place nuicker as the temperature roes down. 17. For resistant hair, a stronger cold wave solution should be used.

18. Cold wave solutions nenetrate virrin hair more slowly than color treated hair. 19. If cold wavinr solution is not properly rinsed from 'the hair, the action of the neutralizer is impaired. 20. Damaped cuticle can be treated with fillers and conditioner before processing. 21. Alkaline cold wave solutions are recommended for bleached hair.

22. Shrinking and hardeninr of the cortex is caused by mild acids in neutralizers. 23. In modern cold vavinr, "s" and"H" bonds are not affected.

24. ?'rover wettinr of hair fibers, followed by toweldrying, decreases the rate of absorbtion of solution. 25. Strairht hair can be premanently curled withoutchemicals. Ninmester Post Test

Name Date Score wa.

Chemical Relaxing

True or False

1. Chemical hair relaxing temporarily rearranges the structure of hair from curly to straight. 2. The two basic products In chemical relaxing are: chemical hair relaxer and straightener. 3. In chemical relaxing, all manufacturers directions are the same.

4. Another name for the neutralizer is stabilizer or fixative.

5. Chemical relaxing involves three basicsteps: processing, neutralizing and conditioning. 6. Hair that has been tinted lightened orhot combed recently should not receive a chemical relaxingtreatment. 7. For fine, wooly hair a mild relaxer isrecommended.

8. A release statement contains a patron's hair history.

9. Analysis of the patron's hair is not included in a chemical relaxing procedure. 10. A thorough scalp examination, skin test, and catch test are imp- portant steps in chemical relaxing. 11. A pull test determines the degree of porosity in the hair.

12. The chemical relaxer should be carefully applied around an abrasion. 13. A patch test should be applied 24 hours before a relaxer treatment. 14. No shampoo is riven before a sodium hydroxide relaxer treatment.

15. A chemical relaxer is rubbed vigorously into the patron's hair.

16. All hair relaxers are timed the same.

17. Some stabilizers nay be used as a setting lotion after a relaxer treatment. 18. Firm massage is recommended when shamrooing after a relaxer treatment. 19. Avoid getting the relaxer on unprotected skin.

20. In retouching, a chemical relaxer is applied to the new growth.

21. Another name for a this relaxer is sodium hydroxide.

22. The hair is shampooed before a thio relaxer.

23. After a chemical relaxer treatment, a period for four to six weeks should be allowed before a hot iron treatment. 24. The relaxer should be applied to the curliest area first.

25. A record card for a patron is not always recuired. Quinmester Post Test Answer Sheet

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Cold Waving Test #1

1. chemicals 19. a. liquid

2. a. physical b. powder

b. chemical c. crystal

3. physical and chemical 20. sectioning, blocking

4. physical and chemical neutralizing 21. size of rods and blocking

5. a. texture 22. single halo, double halo,

b. porosity straight back, dropped crown

c. elasticity 23. waving lotion, neutralizer

d. scalp condition 24. director or on the rod method

e. density 25. tepid, cool

f. length 26. hair-scalp

6. porosity 27. brushing-massaging

7. texture 28. shape

8. elasticity 29. saturated

9. large 30. draft

10. six 31. manufacturer's

11. diameter 32. color

12. circumference 33. water-neutralizer

13. 3/4 to 1/8" 34. metallic

14. straight 35, cold wave lotion

15. straight

16. ammonium thioglycolate

I 17. protection to the hair

18. peroxide Ouinmester Post Test Answer Sheet

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Cold Wave Test - Procedure for a Cold Wave

1. L

2. E

3. B

5. A

6. K

7. D

8. H

9. I

10. C

11. J

12. F

13. M Quinmester Post Test AnswerSheet

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Part I Cold Waving,

1. B 24. A 45. B 66. C

2. C 25. C 46. A 67. B

3. A Part II 47. A 68. B Hair Analysis and 4. D Safety 48. D 69. A

5. D 26. A 49. B 70. C

6. C 27. A 50. C Part IV Chemical Hair 7. B 28. B Part III Belaxinit Chen-Istr,,t Cold- D 'd. ..A 29. C Waving 71.

9. C 30. D 51. D 72. C

10. C 31. A 52. D 73. B

11. B 32. B 53. D 74. C

12. C 33. C 54. C 75. A

13. C 34. D 55. C 76. B

14. C 35. D 56. C 77. D

15. A 36. C 57. C 78. A

16. C 37. A 58. A 79. D

17. B 38. B 59. C 80. C

18. D 39. B 60. C 61. B

19. A 40. A 61. C 82. A

20. C 41. D 62. D 83. D

21. A 42. C 63. A 84. D

C 22. D 43. B 64. B 85.

23. D 44. A 65. C ,8

Quinmester Post Test Answer Sheet

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Chemistry of Cold Waving

1. True

2. True

3. False

4. True

5. True

6. False

7. True

8. True

9. True

10. False

11. False

12. True

13. True

14. True

15. False

16. False

17. True

18. True

19. True

20. True

21. False

22. True

23. False

24. False

25. False

-.32- OuiLmester Post Test Answer Sheet

Hair-Curvy or Straight

Chemical Relaxing

1. False

2. False

3. False

4. True

5. True

6. True

7. True

8. False

9. False

10. True

11. False

12.

13. True

14. True

15. False

16. False

17. True

18. False

19. True

20. True

21. False

22. True

23. True

24. True

25. False