AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

HOLLYWOOD’S RED CARPET WHIZ KIDS INFOMERCIAL-MANIA DOLLAR STORES CASH IN

GIVE ME MORE! THE NEW MARKETING MANTRA IN CARE

%%3*;&29(5DLQGG 30  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT

WWD BEAUTY INC 3

FEATURES 26 Small Screen Dreams The infomercial channel is booming as established players look to solidify their CONTENTS position amidst an onslaught of new entrants. 30 Maximum Volume Hair-care marketers are aiming to transform the way women approach hair-care regimens—and pump up sales to boot. 36 Penny Press As one of the fastest-growing channels in retail, the value-oriented dollar stores are now also the most competitive. 40 Red Carpet Whiz Kids Hollywood’s hottest young hair stylists and makeup artists. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 8 The Laugh Master Under Aurelian Lis, Benefit’s humorous ethos has flourished, but the brand’s explosive growth in North America is no joke. 10 Black Book: Brooke Wall The super-chic founder of The Wall Group shares her favorite L.A. haunts. 11 My First Job: Jerrod Blandino Getting creative at Chuck E. Cheese. BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Pop Rocks Spring’s bright color palette. 16 Launch Window Key products hitting stores now. 18 Singular Sensations Inspired looks from the European runways. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 20 Tinseltown’s Newest Beauty Destination Testing the waters at Hollywood’s swanky new . 24 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and why– on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. MISC 6 Pete Unplugged Pete Born, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, surveys the global indie beauty scene. 42 Flex Time Ole Hendriksen flips out.

ON THE COVER: Carola Remer at ONE Management The season of photographed exclusively for WWD Beauty Inc by statement-making Jonas Bresnan. Makeup by Kaoru Okubo for NARS at hair styles: Page 18. Management + Artists. Hair by Dennis DeVoy at Art Department. Styled by Ada Kokosar at Artlist. PHOTO BY JONAS BRESNAN JONAS BY PHOTO

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 205, NO. 75. SATURDAY, April 13, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. Address all editorial, one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, , NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O!cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O!cer & Chief Financial O!cer; www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O!cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o!ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. carefully screened companies that o#er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o#ers and/or information, please advise us at Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich- P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post O!ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

%%3*;72&DLQGG 30  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT 4 WWD BEAUTY INC

EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Going for the Growth JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR he book Granularity of Growth was published in 2008, but it is a MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR concept that has become especially ubiquitous today in beauty as BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS growth plateaus in traditional sectors. As a result, marketers are forced JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT OLIVIA LANDAU EDITORIAL INTERN to create new opportunities in unexpected places, and many have done KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR

so with spectacular results—to wit, Clinique’s Even Better Clinical ART TDark Spot Corrector, which blasted open the brightening category in the U.S. BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR Although the stories in this issue of WWD Beauty Inc are very diverse, they have CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (), MILES SOCHA (Paris), a common thread: The retailers and categories featured are all experiencing CYNTHIA MARTENS (), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (), explosive growth in a period when single-digit increases are the norm. MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) Take the dollar store channel of retail, which is growing at a pace faster than PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR Starbucks, reports WWD’s contributing editor and mass-market expert, Faye LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Brookman. This year alone, two of the biggest players will open more than ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER 1,000 new stores combined, and the channel is expected to continue nabbing EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR market share (and top executive talent) from drugstores and discounters. JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, Brookman explains what this means for beauty in “Penny Press” on page 36. THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS Another fast-growing and ever-evolving channel is infomercials. The CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, direct-response television business is booming—spending increased 47 BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, NAGLE, percent in 2012 and was up 38 percent in January alone this year—but as JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO many brands are discovering, a big spend doesn’t necessarily translate into BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING big sales. WWD’s West Coast–based beauty reporter Rachel Brown talked to PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER the industry’s most successful practitioners to discover what it takes to win JENNIFER MARDER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR today and the foundation brands are laying for a multiplatform future. The ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR results are in “Small Screen Dreams” on page 26. COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER BAVA GUGLIELMO INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR Mass-market hair-care brands are also looking for a big win. After years of OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY stagnant growth, the category has been energized in the past 16 months by an CHRISTOPHER SANTORELLA BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT onslaught of launches—more than 500 new stockkeeping units alone from MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING the industry’s biggest names. This generation of innovation has a singular EMILY CORTEZ EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING goal: to transform consumer’s behavior and convince women to evolve their MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR hair-care regimens into multistep programs that mimic skin care. “The hair- JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR care market is undergoing a massive, long-term transition,” Unilever’s Gina JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR ALEXIS WARCHALOWSKI DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Boswell told beauty financial editor Molly Prior. “Increasingly hair consumers BRIANNA LIPOVSKY ASSOCIATE MARKETING DIRECTOR JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER are becoming more sophisticated and understanding that products work as a MICHAEL FOUNTAS MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING regimen of wash, care and treatment and they are willing to invest.” The early ALISSA GROSS MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING JESSICA CASEY MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING numbers bear out Boswell’s optimism. Find out how the market is expected to AMANDA MULLAHEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING DANIELLE K. STEWART MARKETING COORDINATOR evolve this year in “Maximum Volume” on page 30. CHRISTINA MASTROIANNI PR ASSISTANT There is another theme running PRODUCTION throughout this issue: an emphasis GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR on West Coast brands and leaders. KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR KEY POINTS JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER FROM THIS ISSUE You’ll find Benefit’s Aurelian 5 Lis in “Master Class,” skin-care CIRCULATION ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR 1. TUNE IN: The infomerical channel entrepreneur Ole Henriksen in JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR is growing and becoming increasingly “Private Lives,” and the hottest young SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER integrated with other platforms. PAGE 26 Hollywood makeup artists and ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER 2. REGIMEN CHANGE: Hair-care hair stylists in “Red Carpet Whiz Kids.” Although he brings a FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA marketers are trying to grow the pie by WILL SCHENCK EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, CRO transforming women’s habits. PAGE 30 sensibility to the industry, Lis’ ideas SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL 3. VALUE ADDED: Dollar stores are about beauty are universal. “We MELISSA BRECHER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER NICOLE ZUSSMAN VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES booming, proliferating even faster than all work in the cosmetics industry, MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Starbucks. PAGE 36 which is inherently frivolous by DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER 4. GOOD TIMES: Why making people nature, but it makes a big impact laugh is good for sales. PAGE 8 on people’s lives,” he says. “It is an NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR awesome job. And very motivating.” 5. POP TOPS: Bright colors are all the PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR rage for spring. PAGE 14 I couldn’t agree more. —JENNY B. FINE GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO

%%3*;(G/HWWHU0DVWKHDGDLQGG 30 

©2013 P&G 63(@-9,:/,--,*;:*64 6 WWD BEAUTY INC PETE UNPLUGGED

The Survival Stakes As the challenges for small brands grow ever bigger, WWD’s PETE BORN discovers a handful of intrepid indies who are staying the course.

iche is going global. things that cost a whole lot of money. [The indie brands are] just not in a That was made clear in March at the Cosmoprof fair in Bologna, position to gain entry into most of the stores that provide a meaningful amount with an exhibition of indie brands, mostly from Europe and the U.S. of revenue,” says Coe-Hutshing Housed in one of the cavernous pavilions, the Extraordinary Gallery Much of the previous opportunity was wiped out by the great recession, Coe- comprised 26 small companies all looking to score connections with Hutshing says, but there are some high-octane retail boutiques and venues popping distributors and retailers, usually from outside their market. up that are embracing indie brands, such as Woodley and Bunny in Brooklyn. NThat display of young upstarts looking for opportunity overseas came on the These, however, tend to be local, since it is difficult to re-create the niche magic in heels of the Personal Care Product Council annual meeting in Florida, during multiple locations. “That’s the problem with niche beauty in general,” she says. “It’s which some of the industry’s key players discussed ways of unkinking trade- hard to be niche and be big at the same time.” snagging government regulations around the world. Speaking from her retail experience, Coe-Hutshing says it would be great to have Clearly, it’s a global world and brand building brick-and-mortar stores and e-commerce platforms to support new is no longer a backyard affair, as it had been in the “That’s the problem brands. But the other side of the argument is that the young brands freewheeling era that was the Nineties, when the U.S.— simply have to wise up. “Some of them are not very savvy about the with its strong specialty-store competition, the arrival with niche beauty in way they approach marketing and marketing themselves,” Coe- of , and more than 30 multibrand beauty Web general. It’s hard Hutshing maintains. “There always have been a handful of good sites hungering for new labels—was the cradle ones and many, many dreadful ones that need redirection.” of all things indie. Those were halcyon days, when to be niche and be big The Extraordinary Gallery was designed by Cosmoprof as MAC Cosmetics shocked the market, first with an experimental showcase to attract buyers and distributors , then RuPaul. Bobbi Brown, with its fistful of at the same time.” seeking novelties, and not restricted to any particular retail lipsticks, Benefit Cosmetics and the motorcycle-riding channel or even bound by the orthodox definition of a beauty Kiehl’s all rose to prominence out of a tribe of beauty hipsters. product. “[It] is a little bit of a melting pot, a place people can display an idea Those days seem distant and these days seem different, with a change in retail that can become a cosmetics product, a supplement, a home décor product,” realities. There’s a constant profusion of newcomer brands streaming across the says Laura Zaccagnini, director of international affairs of SoGeCos S.p.A., the Internet. Karen Grant, vice president and global industry analyst of NPD Group, organizer of Cosmoprof. Just as the product definition is purposely free-form to suggests that the Web offers nascent outfits a national voice without the need create the most fecund atmosphere possible, the idea of retail destination is also kept for building distribution or managing inventory logistics. Also, a brand can try wide open. “We don’t want to be limited by saying this is a beauty salon product, a spa out a key item, rather than having to float an entire line. product or a perfumery product.” But the digital flow doesn’t seem to translate into significant bricks-and-mortar To encourage diversity in the audience, Cosmoprof brought in buyers from business, at least not on the scale of the past. Latin American and Japan this year, because Europe “is so saturated with “Especially for indie businesses, it is really difficult to get a foothold in the U.S.,” product.” According to Zaccagnini, it worked. “[Exhibitors] didn’t expect so says Robin Coe-Hutshing, who in her earlier retail career at Fred Segal was the many contacts from so many different parts of the world,” she says. Agreement West Coast indie queen, launching virtually every buzz-generating name on the came on that point from Roger Aoun, international marketing director from the scene. Now she and her business partner, Nicole Ostoya, are busy creating brands. London-based Beauty Lab Co. “What we have done in four days probably would Ostoya was at Cosmoprof tending two booths featuring their brands, like The New have taken a year to do,” he estimates. Black and Khroma Beauty, in the Extraordinary Gallery. In Paris, Didier Arthaud, founder and chief executive of the naturally based men’s “There are some unusual opportunities and refreshing opportunities overseas that are skin and personal-care brand 66 30, agrees with Zaccagnini that the most vexing kind of retro feeling in a way that doesn’t exist in the U.S.,” Coe-Hutshing says. “There problem plaguing fledgling brands is a lack of dependable, long-term investment. are a number of perfumeries and multi-unit stores that have the ability, and the desire, to He estimates that 95 percent of indie brands disappear. Competition for do business with niche brands,” she says. She notes that she and Ostoya made a range of investment dollars is tough, he says, because it take five to seven years for a young contacts at the show and now are in talks with and Harvey Nichols, for instance. beauty brand to build a bankable reputation. A lot of investors are drawn to She adds that there’s a kind of “reverse chic” at work, meaning that foreigners Silicon Valley, where “in two to three years they can make much more money.” see “some magic” in U.S.-made products, just as what comes out of Paris or But there have been plenty of other inquiries. Arthaud says he attended the London “has an exotic appeal to us.” Cosmoprof show in Hong Kong last November and “it was amazing.” The intimate RR M KE Although American specialty stores and boutiques still support indie brands, niche-oriented format in Bologna also appeals to him. “If you put a niche brand in a A the intensity seems to have lessened. “There’s just not the appetite there used supermarket, nobody is going to see it,” he says. In any event, it apparently worked. to be for niche brands, unless they have the ability to really support the stores On a recent Friday evening, Arthaud was having a discussion with a Swedish distribu-

by demonstration, sampling, advertising, marketing and a whole host of other tor he met at Cosmoprof. “It’s gone very, very fast,” he says. “We are quite happy, yes.” S BY ILLUSTRATION

%%3*;3HWHDLQGG 30  Call 800.341.9999 ©2013 OPI Products Inc. • Illustra tion by Stina P errson / CWC-i © 2013 Smart Style, RegisHairstylists, andselectProfessional Salons. Available atPureBeauty, BeautyBrands, ULTA, Trade Secret, COLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Can’t Find My Czechbook, My Paprika is Hotter than Yours!, Yours!, than Hotter is Paprika My Czechbook, My Find Can’t ISaw...U Saw...We Saw...Warsaw, Buff is Vampire My Hands Off My Kielbasa!, OY–Another Polish Joke!, Polish OY–Another Kielbasa!, My Off Hands ** Suzi’s Hungary AGAIN!, You’re aBudaPest, Such AGAIN!, Suzi’s Hungary A Woman’s -ative, Vant to Bite My Neck?, My Vant to Bite Woman’s A Prague-ative, Model iswearing ** * Try it on at at on it Try Available inGelColorbyOPI A W A oman’s Prague-ative oman’s Polka opi.com ** . com, OPI...Eurso Euro, com, 8 WWD BEAUTY INC CORNER OFFICE

MASTER CLASS “We are spending so much time, literally, trying to make people laugh. The Laugh It is an awesome job. And very motivating.” Master For Benefit Cosmetics’ Aurelian Lis, having fun is all in a day’s work. BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL NAGLE

urelian Lis studied physics at Oxford, but for him, success in the beauty business isn’t rocket science. “As a brand, you need a reason to exist,” says Lis, general manager, Americas, of Benefit. “Ours is to make our customers laugh.” The success of that strategy is no joke: Industry Asources report the brand, owned by LVMH Moët , ended the year with global retail sales of $760 million, with North America posting 30 percent year-over- year growth to reach sales of $250 million. Lis has an unusual background for a beauty executive: Post graduation, he worked on an offshore oil rig in Bombay, before heading to Unilever, where he worked in the foods division. He’s also an entrepreneur, having started and sold Prescribed Solutions Customized Skincare, a brand sold in doctor’s offices. A self-professed nerd who relishes combining the scale of an established business with the energy of an emerging one, Lis’ experience instilled in him a true affinity for beauty. “We all work in the cosmetics industry, which is inherently frivolous by nature, but it makes a big impact on people’s lives,” says Lis. “It is an awesome job.”

What is your assessment of the current beauty environment and where do you see the most opportunity? The current beauty environment in the U.S. is quite healthy. Differentiated businesses are doing well, as are service businesses. As a brand, you need a reason to exist. Our positioning is that Benefit is fun and makes customers laugh. You see our tagline—“Laughter is the best cosmetic”—all over our company. It’s the activities we do, such as emergency mascara technicians driving around during fashion week in New York providing emergency makeovers, or Beauty Boosts, which are cute compliments that a customer can receive every morning by saying, “Please send us a tweet,” and they get a compliment back. We’re always asking, How can we differentiate ourselves by making people smile or laugh? As you look in any industry, if you can differentiate yourself you can make a difference and have above-average results. A graduate of Oxford and INSEAD, Aurelian Lis joined Benefit Cosmetics in 2010 as general IN BRIEF The other thing is services: With online as an alternative, manager of North America. Lis has a broad background, having worked at companies as people are looking for unique experiences. If you have a service diverse as Unilever, where he focused on strategic, operational and sales capacities for brands including Elizabeth Arden, and Delia’s Corp., where he held the position of chief operating o!cer. Prior to joining Benefit, he founded element to your business, you can interact with your customer Prescribed Solutions, a dermatological skin care brand which was acquired in 2009. Lis, who reports to Benefit in a much higher way. We do that through brows. It creates a ceo Jean-Andre Rougeot, was promoted to his current position overseeing North and South America in 2012. very loyal customer who keeps coming back, but also it’s just a

really rich way to interact with your customer. CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT

%%3*;&20DVWHUFODVVDLQGG $0  CORNER OFFICE WWD BEAUTY INC 9

How is South America trending? How has your entrepreneurial experience informed that you work with your existing team and invest in We are in three countries. The most established is your present position? your existing people. In a very short time, we doubled Mexico, where we’re in Sephora and El Palacio de As an entrepreneur, you are quite resource- the business. Amazing success, but I’m even more Hierro. We are in Chile with Falabella and in Brazil with constrained and you have a reasonably short time proud that we did that with essentially the team that Sephora. We don’t need to be in every store. We don’t horizon, by comparison to large companies. At the was there. We didn’t come in and change every senior want to be the biggest, we want to be the best. In any same time, you have a lot of authority and you’re manager position and do a total housecleaning. We store where we are, we want to be, if not the top brand, extremely nimble. The advantage of cutting labels on tried to unleash the great ideas through the strengths in the top three. In South America we are doing that, your kitchen table is you may need to change one of people have. It’s more long term as well. I want people especially in Mexico and Brazil. Our strategy is to keep those labels. The next batch is changed. Some of our to be in the same company years from now. You need moving forward in a way that we’re doing very well in early brochures were printed on ink jet and we would to take that long-term skill-building view to people. small incremental units. Eventually they add up to a literally go through a variety of versions with our first Everything else follows—you’ve got good people, very substantial and impressive business. customers and tweak them and get them better and they’re in it for the long term, they have authority. How do you see that business evolving over the next better and better. In big companies, you can’t do that. What’s the most difficult business decision five years? What it comes down to is finding the trade off— you’ve made? We are anticipating rapid growth over the long run. trying to keep some of those positive aspects of Probably the decision to sell Prescribed Solutions. The interesting thing about the South and Central entrepreneurship in a bigger company. After you’ve developed and nurtured a business, American markets is what can you learn from those What motivates a lot of entrepreneurs—and certainly it is your baby. You know everything about the markets and bring back to the U.S. brand—virtually every area was at some time your Is that because of the changing demographics of the Benefit's responsibility until you got large enough to be able whimsical U.S. and what it means for your business here? to put people in place. Deciding to sell it was tough. ethos. Yes. There are differing demographics here. We are It came when we realized that the only impediment interested in being exceptional in the places we’re at. to growth was increasing the size of our sales force. We need to maintain that, whether the entire industry We were looking at some strategic partners who is going up 10 percent or is flat. That teaches you could do that and the partner we came across things that hopefully you can bring back. The Latina wanted to own it. population is close to 20 percent of the U.S. We have If I reflect back and ask, Was it a good move? Yes. wonderful products that work with all skin types, and The company continues to be successful. The difficulty as an organization, we’ve become a lot better and more in selling was also because of the commitment inclusive of all segments of the market. to the people you made to get to where you There’s a perception that Benefit is product driven were—the commitment to the employees and fix-it driven. Is that a fair assessment? How do who you won over, got on board and believed you fully realize all categories? in the dream you believed in. It’s also true for There is nothing wrong with having a good definition the customers. Our second customer was Dr. Pat and people understanding what makes you different Wexler and she helped us a lot. I was very careful from other businesses. The way I would define our when I sold it that the people who were buying products is they are instant beauty solutions. [Our it would uphold the importance of them and the customer is] a young woman who is on her first or standards I believed they deserved. Fortunately they did. second job, in her late 20s maybe, very successful at Do you see yourself starting something else work. She is working very hard, she gets to the end of did me—is the ability to own your own from scratch? the week, she’s got a date, and the fact that she’s been business, own your destiny and run with Yes. It’s motivating. It’s easier than people think, working hard shows. She needs a quick solution. In it, and make decisions you believe are best for probably. It’s a huge amount of work. But it’s not as 10 minutes, we can make her look and feel fabulous. the company and also make decisions that come out of much about having the best idea. These things evolve. That is our positioning. Is it a fix-it positioning? Yes, your own pocketbook. LVMH, in general, and Benefit, in Good outcomes come through a very decent idea plus although it may be more of a fake-it than fixing it. particular, are structured in a very entrepreneurial way, in a lot of hard work, a lot of feedback and listening to That is quite a broad positioning. It encompasses that from a business perspective, people do own their own the market. The impediment I often hear to starting amazing concealers, great primers, even mascaras. businesses. The U.S. owns the business of making sure something new is, “I haven’t had the most brilliant The point is, they have to be simple, instant. There is the U.S. customer is delighted with the brand. idea ever.” Yes, you need a decent idea, but it’s more usually a yuck-wow, so you can see a huge difference What is it about beauty that attracts you so much? about conviction. Are you willing to put the time in? between before and after. And it works. I’ve got a quirky background. I studied physics. I Are you willing to question yourself? It’s always fun to Before Benefit, you founded a skin care line. was an engineer for a while. I worked in foods—in leave open the possibility of starting something new. I did. It is called Prescribed Solutions Customized fats, oils, dressings, prepacked salads, even cheeses. I Having said that, Benefit has a huge way to go. We Skincare. It is a line of high-performance antiaging realized nobody wanted to talk to me when I was in are just scratching the surface. products sold through doctor’s offices that can be the prepacked salad business. Nobody cared. People What drives you? customized for different skin types. I started it with care about cosmetics. It’s about their identity. They We all work in the cosmetics industry, which is a business partner, David May. We built it from the care a huge amount what it’s going to look like on inherently frivolous by nature, but it makes a big beginning, where we were cutting the labels on my them, whether it works on them. It continues to be impact on people’s lives. We are spending so much kitchen table and getting into doctor’s offices, all the motivating factor. The idea of having a customer time, literally, trying to make people laugh. It is an the way to about 500 offices when we sold it. Now that is so excited by what you do is a motivating thing. awesome job. And very motivating. The creativity of it belongs to a company called Ferndale Labs, a How would you describe your management style? the teams, whether it’s in packaging or promotions or

PRODUCT PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT Michigan-based pharmaceutical company. The important thing is to develop your team. I believe events: You see it and get motivated for another day.

%%3*;&20DVWHUFODVVDLQGG $0  10 WWD BEAUTY INC CORNER OFFICE

BLACKBOOK Brooke Wall As founder and president of The Wall Group, Brooke Wall represents some of the world’s top hair, makeup and styling talent. No slouch in the chic department herself, the bicoastal beauty executive shares some of her favorite Los Angeles haunts.

Pleasure HIDEAWAY: San Ysidro Ranch I love staying in Jackie O’s honeymoon suite. 900 San Ysidro Lane, APP: Jamie Oliver’s Santa Barbara; 805-565-1995 20-Minute Meals STATIONER: Sugar Paper in the Brentwood BAKERY: Joan’s on Third Country Mart for invites, and in I am obsessed with their French Cartier Beverly Hills for personal stationery. breakfast muffins, croissants and 225 26th Street, Suite 27; 310-451-7870 coconut cupcakes. 8350 West Third 370 North Rodeo Drive; 310-275-4272 Street; 323-655-2285 VACATION SPOT: Castiglione del Bosco BAND: in Tuscany A 5,000 acre resort in the beautiful BOOK: J.D. Salinger’s The Catcher hills of Tuscany. The most impeccable rooms. In The Rye and Wine and War by Amazing cooking school, gorgeous winery Donald Kladstrup. and close to the sweet little town of Pienza. CELEBRATION RESTAURANT: castiglionedelbosco.com BROOKE WALL, Osteria Mozza If I’m celebrating, founder and it has to involve Nancy Silverton’s president, The Wall Group burrata with caviar, orecchiette Health and Beauty with bread crumbs, affogato and a DERMATOLOGIST: Dr. Raj Kanodia bottle of Vespa Bianco. Business 414 North Camden Drive; 310-276-3106 6602 Melrose Avenue; 323-297-0100 MANICURIST: April Foreman or AIRLINE: Virgin America : Champagne Krug NV Ashlie Johnson thewallgroup.com A modern, relaxed and friendly atmosphere where for breakfast; Jacques Selosse Substance MASSEUSE: Karen Robinson your pets can hang out at your feet. Feels for later in the day. 310-383-5612 like a living room in biz class! CHOCOLATIER: TRAINER: Core Fusion at Exhale BUSINESS TRAVEL CITY: Paris ChocoVivo Fairmont Miramar Hotel, I can work and play in the prettiest city A unique bean-to-bar concept 101 Wilshire Boulevard; on the planet, and I always love Karl’s where you can handcraft 310-319-3193 surprise theme at the Chanel shows. your own pure chocolates. CLOTHING STORE/BUSINESS: 1617 Abbot Kinney BOTANY Barneys in Beverly Hills FLOWERS Boulevard; SUNSET TOWER Chrys Wong always helps me. She has a 310-463-7878 HOTEL great eye and no-nonsense approach, CLOTHING STORE/EVENING: which I appreciate since my time is limited. Maxfield on Melrose 8825 Melrose 9570 Wilshire Boulevard; 310-276-4400 Avenue; 310-274-8800 DRY CLEANER: Brown’s Cleaners CLOTHING STORE/SHOES: Pricey, but great attention to detail. Saks Fifth Avenue 9634 Wilshire 1223 Montana Avenue; 310-451-8531 Boulevard; 310-275-4211 MOBILE DEVICE: CLOTHING STORE/WEEKEND: iPhone 5S and Blackberry Bold Fred Segal on Melrose RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS LUNCH: 8118 Melrose Avenue; 323-651-1800 Chateau Marmont DINER: The Fountain Co!ee Room I love lunching in the garden and at Beverly Hills Hotel they have the best french fries in L.A. Epitome of Old Hollywood. I always 8221 Sunset Boulevard; 323-848-5908 run into friends at breakfast, and I RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS DINNER: love that you feel so pampered. Tower Bar at Sunset Tower Hotel No food request is ever denied! Cozy atmosphere, great view and I had my favorite 9641 Sunset Boulevard; 310-281-2916 dinner ever there with Catherine Deneuve FLORIST: Botany Flowers (it was sorta business...) The Brentwood Country Mart, 225

8353 West Sunset Boulevard; 323-654-7100 26th Street, Suite 41; 310-394-0358 GIANNONI GIOVANNI CHANEL BY IANNACCONE; THOMAS BY PHOTO WALL

%%3*;&2%ODFNERRNDLQGG 30  CORNER OFFICE WWD BEAUTY INC 11

AHA MOMENT 1976 ON THE MOVE

HISAYUKI SUEKAWA stepped The French Manicure down as president and chief The year was 1976. The United States celebrated its 200th executive o!cer of Shiseido Co. anniversary; Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak formed the Apple Ltd. in late March citing health Computer Company and Nadia Comaneci flipped her way to reasons. Shiseido said that three gold medals at the Summer Olympics in Montreal. chairman SHINZO MAEDA Beauty history was also made that year by Jeff , who would resume his role as owned a small beauty supply store in Tarzana, Calif. and the president of the company GEMMA previous year had created a nail brand called Orly. Concerned as of April 1. Maeda was LIONELLO about a lack of foot traffic and in search of sales, Pink started president and ceo prior to calling everyone he could think of within a 25-mile or so Suekawa’s appointment in January radius—Hollywood studios, nail technicians and hair salons 2011...GEMMA LIONELLO has been were at the top of his list—to ask them how he could satisfy named executive vice president and their beauty needs. One film director did, indeed, have a nail general merchandise manager of dilemma. “In the movie industry at that time, they matched cosmetics at Nordstrom. She nail colors to dresses,” Pink recently recounts. “Every time a succeeds LAURIE BLACK, starlet was wearing a red dress, he had to put red nail polish who is retiring after 35 on her. If the dress changed to purple, the color had to be years with the retailer.... ANASTASIA changed. During the day, nail polish had to be changed three ANASTASIA C. AYALA C. AYALA to four times,” he continues. “The director said to me, ‘I’m has been named CEO of spending a minimum of three hours just to change nail Nude Skincare, replacing ANNA colors and, for us, time is money.’” GHEE, who has left the company... Pink decided to solve the dilemma. In his store, he CHRISTINE DAGOUSSET, currently carried a white pencil which could be applied under people in America believed it came from executive vice president of fragrance the nails to make them appear clean. If he could jazz France,” says Pink. and beauté at Chanel Inc. in the U.S. that up a bit, he might hit upon something usable for The French Manicure got a boost from has been named as the successor to actresses’ nails no matter what color clothing they Hollywood once again when celebrities global president ANDREA D’AVACK. sported. Although his polish supplier thought Pink’s went on The Tonight Show Starring Dagousset will return to Paris request was silly, Pink ordered a gallon of white nail Johnny Carson wearing it. Barbra by January 2014, working with lacquer, which he paired with a flesh-toned color and Streisand was the first one to talk to D’Avack in a transition phase, sold to the director. “Slowly, one director talked to another Carson about the French Manicure before assuming the role in director, and they bought it from me,” said Pink. and then came . “I want to thank 2015....JULIE BORNSTEIN CHRISTINE DAGOUSSET As word spread, Pink packaged the white and flesh-colored the movie industry. The French has been promoted to nail lacquers together and dubbed the product the Natural Manicure put Orly on the map,” says chief marketing and digital o!cer Nail Look. He decided to bring the product to Paris, Pink. “When I made it, the only thing of Sephora, assuming the duties of Cher sporting where he was doing the nails for the runway. On the flight I had on my mind was to make a living. SHARON ROTHSTEIN, who left the the manicure home, he began to reconsider the underwhelming name, she made I didn’t believe it was going to be as huge as company to join Starbucks as global and switched it to French Manicure. “For many years, famous. it became.” —RACHEL BROWN chief marketing o!cer.

MY FIRST JOB Salad (Bar) Days My first job was at the local Orange I found art in everything I did. I imagined the salad bar County Chuck E. Cheese, where, was like a Rose Parade float. I would create these beautiful costume and all, I dressed up as the vignettes with lettuce and vegetables.

JERROD BLANDINO, mouse himself. I was 15 and wanted to I was there for only two weeks. I left to go work in a music Cofounder and Creative get a job with my best friend—we were store, where I could relish my creativity. You can’t have Director, Too Faced going to be like Laverne and Shirley. We everything at 15, but that first job made me realize you have interviewed together, but I got the job to pursue what you want to do. and she didn’t. She laughed it off and didn’t care, but This year, we’re celebrating Too Faced’s 15th anniversary. I was the one who was mad because we were supposed to do Since the beginning, I’ve aimed to create an environment this together. Still, I took the position and had a short stint where employees are heard, and feel they matter and make wearing the Chuck E. Cheese mouse costume. a real difference to the success of the company. But I must A teenage A few days after I started, I was put on salad bar duty. admit, I did take my salad bar duties a little too seriously. Blandino. CHER PHOTO BY GAB ARCHIVE/REDFERNS GAB BY CHER PHOTO

%%3*;&20L[DLQGG 30  12 WWD BEAUTY INC CORNER OFFICE

FLASH POINT Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting FEB. 25-27, 2013

Talk about a world view: While the Personal Care Product Council usually focuses on issues impacting the industry from the vantage point of Heidi Manheimer Washington, D.C., this year’s annual meeting was considerably broader in scope. Topic number one: the harmonization of product and ingredient regulations around the world. To that end, representatives from 11 industry trade organizations— including China, South Korea, Australia, Canada and the European Union—

Jean-Marc Plisson participated in the three-day event, held at The Breakers hotel in Palm Beach, Fla. PCPC chairman and chief executive o!cer of Elizabeth Arden E. Scott Beattie stressed the importance of the gathered representatives “working together to keep the industry strong and focused” to prevent “regulatory overreach” and e"ect “global harmonization e"orts.” Patrice Louvet The message was well received by the 475 attendees, who included L’Oréal’s Karen Fondu, Procter & Gamble’s Patrice Louvet, Coty’s George Cleary, Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Estée Lauder’s Thia Breen. “We can’t be in isolation,” said Breen. “There’s no turning back with this. It’s global.” Multiple brands were also in attendance, on hand to meet with the many magazine publishers and editors who attend the meeting. Fresh’s Jean-Marc Plisson revealed plans for a new fragrance come Bob Phillips September, while Sally Hansen showed a gel polish formula with glitter, George Cleary and Linda Marshall Elizabeth Musmanno also to be introduced in the fall.

“We need to continue our Karen Fondu collaboration with our colleagues abroad. The stakes are high. We are stronger Julie Rollauer Cosimo Policastro with one voice.” —E. SCOTT BEATTIE, PRESIDENT AND CEO, ELIZABETH ARDEN INC. AND CHAIRMAN OF PCPC Christophe de Villeplee

Fabio Franchina Maria Dempsey Stephen Dubner E. Scott Beattie

Julie Strasser . LEEK . B HEN P TE S

Thia Breen Lezlee Westine Bernard Cloetta Jerry Vittoria PHOTOS BY BY PHOTOS

%%3*;&2)ODVKSRLQWDLQGG $0 

BEAUTY BULLETIN

P ROCKS OWhen fashion brands Plike Louis Vuitton and Versus conjured up a Sixties vibe for spring, it seemed only fitting that beauty follow suit. To complement summer’s mod- Top to bottom: Clarins squad mood, brands like , Revlon, Crystal Lip Balm, $26; NYX and Esteé Lauder are ushering in pops of Revlon Baby Stick for Lips & orange-toned reds and pinks. “Orange has some Cheeks, $8.99; NYX Butter Gloss, $5; Estée Lauder Pure Color Sheer of the same excitement that red has, but because Rush Gloss, $24; Misslyn Hairlights Hair of the yellow undertone, it has a bit of playfulness Mascara, $10.50; Stila Countless Color as well,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive Pigments, $22; Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So director of the Pantone Color Institute. Fresh, $75; Blow Pro Smooth You Only Smoother Advanced Smoothing “But when you use these colors against Spray, $22; Natura Bisse C+C a dramatic contrast like black, it Vitamin Splash, $55. gives o! a psychedelic feel.” —JAYME CYK Photographed by George Chinsee Styled by Tyler Resty

%%3*;%%2SHQHUDLQGG 30 

16 WWD BEAUTY INC BEAUTY BULLETIN

Boscia Daily Defense FIGHT THE BURN Sunscreen Broad According to The NPD Group, in 2012, sales of Spectrum SPF 50 skin care–sunscreen hybrids rose 7.7 percent. PA+++, $36 The season’s newest sunscreens reflect that trend, featuring a panoply of antiaging ingredients. La Mer’s new sun collection features marine peptides to firm skin, while Boscia uses JIMMY CHOO FLASH CLINIQUE MOISTURE hyaluronic acid to help retain moisture. GLOSS D’ENFER Blending pink pepper SURGE CC CREAM Inspired by the amid jasmine and a base Clinique’s six-shade Sixties pin-up girl, of heliotrope, the second ultra-hydrating CC cream this 20-shade gloss fragrance from the luxury contains advanced color- range contains an footwear brand is meant correcting technology oil composition to to evoke the excitement to neutralize the LA MER moisturize and provide of getting ready for an complexion and make it Soleil de la Mer softness to lips. $30 evening out. $75 appear even. $37 The Reparative Body Sun Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $85 Celebrating 50 years of Bond Girls

MURAD Essential-C Sun Balm Broad Spectrum SPF 35 PA+++, $25 YES TO STRIVECTIN-EV OPI BOND GIRLS CUCUMBERS GET EVEN DARK CIRCLE LIQUID SAND GENTLEMEN ONLY Soothing CORRECTOR StriVectin’s With shades named Actor Simon Baker Natural signature molecule, NIA- after some of the most fronts Givenchy’s Sunscreen 114, boosts the e"cacy iconic Bond girls, this new men’s scent, LA ROCHE-POSAY SPF 30, of vitamin C and helps six-piece collection the brand’s third Laboratoire $11.99 even out dark circles. features a matte lacquer major pillar and most Dermatologique After use, 90 percent of formula infused with mainstream e!ort to Anthelios 60 Ultra women saw dark circles shimmer to impart the date. Notes include Light Sunscreen Fluid, $29.99 lighten in 14 days. $59 look of liquid sand. $9 green mandarin, vetiver and incense. $78

LAUNCH WINDOW

NEST FRAGRANCES ORIBE CÔTE D’AZUR PETER THOMAS ROTH CLINICAL What’s In Store NEW YORK WHITE HAIR REFRESHER NARCISSE BODY & SOUL This mist contains SKIN CARE Rounding up April’s most innovative products. BY JAYME CYK SPRAY Designed to evoke Oribe’s signature NEUROLIQUID VOLUFILL a field of white flowers, complex of watermelon, YOUTH SERUM Nest’s newest scent lychee and edelweiss Formulated with 19 amino layers top notes of white flower extracts to o!set acids, five peptides, three narcisse with a of odor, remove static and collagens and hyaluronic French mimosa upon revive and invigorate acid, this helps skin white sandalwood. $98 hair. $22 appear fuller. $120 SLICK KICK Super shiny at Oils continue to find a receptive audience Jil Sander. among beauty consumers. This spring’s Parlux newest run the gamut from a dry oil for hair builds on its to a shimmering body version. “Oils have Vince Camuto recently surged to become a major player franchise in the U.S. skin-care market, and we think cleansing oils will be the next big thing,” says Priya Venkatesh, Sephora’s vice president of merchandising, skin care.

KATE SOMERVILLE LANCÔME RÉNERGIE VINCE CAMUTO ALTERNA BAMBOO SOMERVILLE360° LIFT MULTI-ACTION FIORI Smooth Kéndi Dry Oil TAN MAXIMIZER REVIVA-CONCENTRATE Inspired by the Micro-Mist, $24 THE ENHANCING INTENSE SKIN REVITALIZER delphiniums in PHYTO Subtil Elixir MOISTURIZER A blend of Combining the skin- Camuto’s own garden, Intense Nutrition peptides, black snakeroot, tightening technology of the this light summer scent Shine Oil, $38 rich oils and butters Rénergie range with a pairing opens with luscious MOROCCANOIL conditions and moisturizes of biolipids and dipeptides, pink grapefruit, with Shimmering Body Oil skin to boost and extend this gel-textured serum a heart of sheer iris Instant Radiance, $45 the look of both natural aims to lift, plump, firm and and a base of rich BOOTS Botanics The and faux tans. $48 revitalize. $120 sandalwood. $78 Power of Plants Facial Oil 100% Organic, $8.99 PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; JIL SANDER BY KUBA DABROWSKI KUBA BY SANDER JIL CHINSEE; GEORGE BY PHOTOS PRODUCT

%%3*;%%/DXQFK:LQGRZDLQGG 30 

NNONI A NNI GI A BE PHOTOS BY GIOV BY BE PHOTOS A N A T WA UEEN, UEEN, Q Moncler Gamme Rouge NN, GIVENCHY, MC GIVENCHY, NN, MA ITRE; ACKER A INIQUE M INIQUE M O D WENS BY WENS BY O

Fendi NNONI; A NNI GI HAWK EYE A Sam McKnight obliged designer 's request for graphic hair with RD; MONCLER BY GIOV RD; MONCLER BY

fox-fur Mohawks, custom- SNOW GLOW A dyed for each model based on Moncler Gamme Rouge's Arctic odyssey featured her hair color and head shape. polar bears, blizzards and gilded beauties,

whose sun-swept cheeks and sculpted hair ELPHINE ACH D redefined the idea of ice princess. FENDI PHOTO BY BY FENDI PHOTO

Rick Owens

SKY HIGH As dense steam billowed out from one side of Rick Owens' runway, models emerged from the cloudlike wall with equally as voluminous hair. As WWD wrote, the look was "teased, tousled and often falling in front of the face for a visual that provided a heavenly touch to the clothes."

%%3*;(\H&DQG\DLQGG 30  EYE CANDY WWD BEAUTY INC 19

FINE JEWELS The jeweled veils Junya Watanabe and ethereally NNONI A glowing faces

NNI GI at Alexander A McQueen perfectly complemented designer Sarah Burton's exquisite BE PHOTOS BY GIOV BY BE PHOTOS A

N Elizabethan-inspired A T creations. WA UEEN, UEEN, Q NN, GIVENCHY, MC GIVENCHY, NN, MA ITRE; ACKER A INIQUE M INIQUE M O D

Alexander McQueen WENS BY WENS BY O NNONI; A NNI GI A RD; MONCLER BY GIOV RD; MONCLER BY A SINGULAR ELPHINE ACH D

FENDI PHOTO BY BY FENDI PHOTO SENSATIONS LET OTHERS TAKE A MINIMALIST ROAD. FOR A HANDFUL OF DARING DESIGNERS, INDIVIDUALISTIC BEAUTY WAS THE NAME OF THE GAME DURING THE FALL COLLECTIONS. MOTORCYCLE MAMAS Wild, windswept-looking coifs were the perfect counterpart to Junya Watanabe's take on the biker jacket. WARRIOR CHIC Haider Ackermann spoke about strength and fragility when describing his fall collection, but there was nothing dainty about the two-tone hairstyles sported by each model. SKY HIGH As dense steam billowed ROSY out from one side of OUTLOOK Rick Owens' runway, models emerged from Luigi Murenu created the cloudlike wall with tightly coiled "caps" of equally as voluminous roses that complemented hair. As WWD wrote, the Givenchy's artful mix look was "teased, tousled of aggression and and often falling in front romanticism. of the face for a visual Givenchy that provided a heavenly touch to the clothes."

%%3*;(\H&DQG\DLQGG 30  20 WWD BEAUTY INC CONSUMER CHRONICLES

Inside Walgreens’ new Los Angeles flagship.

UNDERCOVER SHOPPER Tinseltown’s Newest Beauty Destination WWD’s RACHEL BROWN heads to the heart of Hollywood, where Walgreens has opened its most ambitious beauty door to date.

have been to the Walgreens on the corner of Sunset Look Boutique, its upscale beauty concept, I figured spending a pretty penny for something that really Boulevard and Vine Street in Hollywood twice. it wouldn’t fit in either. The only other Look Boutique delights her, but she isn’t lavish. She had spent a year Once to behave like a “normal” shopper to assess the I had visited in was at a store in Los Gatos, in England during college and had heard the new store for this story and another time for its opening Calif., a tony Silicon Valley community filled with Walgreens had Boots No7, a brand she’d discovered party last December, where an unusual cadre of those who have discretionary income to burn on there. (Walgreens took a stake in last celebrities gathered to partake of the sushi that the likes of La Roche-Posay and Kinerase. While year, and Boots No7 made its Walgreens debut at was being passed around to demonstrate just how Hollywood isn’t for paupers—rents at Sunset + Vine the store.) She was curious about whether the store different this Walgreens is from ordinary drugstores. rise above $2,000 a month—its household incomes resembled Boots, and was also on the hunt for an But I have been to the site of the Walgreens on don’t compare to the $210,000-plus in Los Gatos. orangey-red lipstick. Imany, many occasions. Before it was a Walgreens, it Could the Look Boutique make La Roche-Posay I prepared for our trip by downloading Walgreens’ was a Borders, and for a very brief period, I lived in customers out of shoppers with Pond’s-size budgets? app onto my iPhone. I was hoping I’d score some the Sunset + Vine apartments above that Borders. If In an attempt to answer that question, I enlisted a deals, so I scoured the available mobile coupons and I’m being candid, I was the least-cool resident of the friend to come with me to the Walgreens on Sunset signed up for deal-alert texts. I didn’t receive any complex. I lasted less than a year before jumping ship and Vine so I’d have a partner in crime with whom to texts in advance, but I had access to a mobile coupon to a leafy neighborhood in family-friendly Culver City. evaluate the store. My friend is 35, and doing pretty for Yes To products. If there were something I was When I initially thought about Walgreens with a well for herself in a finance job. She’s not afraid of interested in from the Yes To line, I’d definitely try

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEFANIE KEENAN

%%3*;&&8QGHUFRYHU6KRSDLQGG $0  WWD BEAUTY INC 21 CEW that mobile coupon at the Walgreens’ cash register. adviser suggested Effaclar Duo Acne Treatment. It We arrived at Walgreens at about 3 p.m. I seemed like a good product—we it, of course— immediately noticed the patio outside with free Wi-Fi, but when we flipped over a white metal element that where people sat working on laptops. It was almost concealed the prices, the price was over $30(!). as if I’d arrived at a Starbucks. Walking into the store I flipped over another of those metal elements was equally surprising. An employee greeted us at the on a different row of La Roche-Posay products: door. In front was the bright and clean Look Boutique The majority were from $42.50 to $55. It became and to the right was a massive prepared-food area obvious why Walgreens covered the prices. They JOIN with everything from sushi to octopus salad. “This weren’t typical of drugstores. Perhaps sensing our kind of feels like a fancy airport place,” my friend said, sticker shock, the sales assistant told us that salicylic comparing it to duty-free. acid treatments were available in aisle three in the Boots No7 occupies prime real estate at the standard personal-care merchandise section. She entrance to the Look Boutique. Its black shelving wasn’t dismissive of our frugality in the least, and I contrasts with the largely white units elsewhere. It was happy she didn’t give us a hard sell. The regular beauty aisles were more crowded and + also has a cash wrap right next to it, which wasn’t 5,5 0 0 staffed when we got there. We dove into the huge had two beauty advisers. But after the Look Boutique, selection—about 270 products in approximately 30 they were sort of uninspiring. With no testers, my MEMBERS feet of fixtures. I remembered a friend avoided the lipsticks cream eye shadow I had bought “The Look because she had no desire to back in 2007. I loved that shadow buy one that might not be the and had squeezed the tube to its Boutique’s greatest right shade. I explored the Yes To WHO GET bitter end. Despite the enormity assets are its testers. selection, putting the Eye Makeup of the selection here, I didn’t see Customers can Remover Pads on my to-get list. EXCLUSIVE it. I did find, however, Perfect We headed to the Boots No7 Smoothing Eye Shadow in the test virtually every shelves again prior to finalizing same soft purple hue. product.” our purchases, where a beauty In my opinion, the Look adviser was now on duty. She BENEFITS Boutique’s greatest assets are its handed us samples of Protect testers. Customers can test virtually every product. & Perfect Intense Beauty Serum, which she said I shaded one eye with the Perfect Smoothing Eye is clinically tested to reduce wrinkles. She didn’t Shadow and assessed myself. Sold! That was the have to do too much to persuade me. Out of all the EVERY DAY beginning of our fun with testers. My friend set out to Look Boutique brands, No7 was the most attractive search for the orangey-red lipstick she’d spotted in an to me. It wasn’t crazy expensive and, even though advertisement—the perfect moment for the on-staff I hadn’t used it in forever, it is a trusted brand beauty adviser to offer assistance. Unfamiliar with the outside the U.S. and that gave me confidence. NETWORK & makeup brands at the Look Boutique, which included There was a minor hiccup when we checked out. Vera Moore, ’Tini Beauty, TheBalm, Pür Minerals and I hadn’t read the Yes To mobile coupon carefully CONNECT StudioMakeup, my friend jumped at the opportunity. enough, and it was for shampoo and conditioner. U The brand-agnostic adviser plucked lipsticks from I wasn’t able to get a discount on the Eye Makeup each line and tested them on her hand. Narrowing Remover Pads, but I bought them regardless. In KEEP UP down the field, my friend brushed her lips with total, my friend and I spent roughly $130 on nine WITH various choices. I thought a Vera Moore hit the items. The next day, I received a deal alert via text to INDUSTRY NEWS mark, but my friend wasn’t satisfied—too orange. get $1 off Sally Hansen Salon Effects Real Nail Polish We abandoned the quest and browsed the rest of the Strips. If I had gotten it when I was in the store, I U assortment. I sprayed hair spray from B. The Product, would definitely have bought them. But based on this which came out in a forceful stream. That caught my experience, I’ll be back. I guess you can go home again. LEARN FROM attention in a good way: The hair spray wasn’t going INDUSTRY LEADERS to get lost in the atmosphere. My friend scanned THE FACTS more brands she wasn’t previously aware of, Talika, Walgreens Sunset + Vine U SweetSpot Labs and GlamGlow among them. “How 1501 Vine Street many people are going to come in here and buy this?” 323-467-7916 DEVELOP she wondered. “It’s hard enough in a beauty store.” walgreens.com My friend zeroed in on acne-spot treatments, PROFESSIONALLY mulling a Vera Moore item when the sales assistant @Walgreens directed us to La Roche-Posay. As an aesthetician, she Considered Walgreen’s flagship in Los Angeles and located in the heart said she preferred skin-care treatments from skin- of Hollywood, this is store number 8,000 for the retailer. The site is full of history—it once housed the legendary Schwab’s Pharmacy, where Lana care brands. The extensive range of La Roche-Posay Turner was discovered. Measuring 23,500 square feet, the store features products was a little overwhelming. There were tons unusual drugstore amenities like a sushi bar, smoothie station and more JOIN TODAY of items for sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, aging skin than 700 fine wines. Beauty is well represented, too: The Look Boutique occupies about 1,700 square feet, including prime space for Boots No7. and so on. Where we should focus wasn’t clear. The CEW.ORG

%%3*;&&8QGHUFRYHU6KRSDLQGG $0  22 WWD BEAUTY INC CONSUMER CHRONICLES

STATS The Euro E!ect While U.S. prestige sales outpaced Europe in 2012, the slowdown U.S / EUROPE PRESTIGE BEAUTY abroad has implications here. GROWTH SIZE AND PERFORMANCE restige beauty turned in a U.S. $10.2 Billion +7% stellar performance in the U.S. in 2012, increasing 7 percent to $10.2 billion. Elsewhere, Billion U.K. $3.4 +5% though, as figures provided by The NPD Group show, the France $3.5 Billion -1% picture wasn’t quite as rosy. P“There are two realities,” says NPD’s vice president and global industry analyst, Karen Italy $2.2 Billion -4%Grant. “The U.S. reality and everyone else.” Although the U.K. had positive results, posting growth of 5 percent, sales in France, Spain $1.6 Billion -7% Italy and Spain were down. Of course, such figures make sense in light of the economic Source: The NDP Group woes of each country, but their portent hits closer to home. “While we talk about the U.S. doing well, it is a cautionary tale PERCENTAGE OF SALES BY CATEGORY to watch, because we’re beginning to see some slowdown here,” says Grant. “We U.S. FRANCE U.K. ITALY SPAIN saw it in the second half and heading into 2013. We’re still positive, but the results in 19% 22% SKIN CARE 34% 32% 30% Europe indicate that we might start to feel some of that headwind coming our way. We 14% are going to have to work hard to keep this 23% growth going.” 24% 16% MAKEUP 37% A category that is particularly challenging in Europe is prestige skin care. While it 67% continues to be vibrant in the U.S., the 55% retail dynamic abroad is very different, 44% 54% FRAGRANCE 29% where shoppers are opting more for mass market, pharmacy and monobrands such as Caudalie at one end of the spectrum or Source: The NDP Group superluxe at the other, leaving traditional prestige department-store brands CATEGORY RESULTS BY COUNTRY challenged. “Prestige brands have a great positioning in the U.S. and the mass market U.S. FRANCE U.K. ITALY SPAIN is very different,” says Grant, “but similar dynamics can happen here. Think about TOTAL +7% -1% +5% -4% -7% the merger between Walgreens and Boots,” she continues. “We can’t think that what happens in Europe can’t happen here. You SKIN CARE +10% flat +5% -6% -7% have to keep fine tuning and recognizing that the competition may be very different going forward.” Consequently, says Grant, marketers have MAKEUP +7% -1% +11% flat -9% to be more proactive than ever before if they hope to win in the future. “We have to fight for everything we can get,” says Grant. FRAGRANCE +5% -1% +3% -3% -6% “We can’t just accept things are challenging and take it lying down. You have to look for

Source: The NDP Group opportunity.” YU LAN BY PHOTO

%%3*;&&6WDWVDLQGG $0  BEAUTYSUMMIT 2013 INSIGHT & INNOVATION MAY 21-22//NEW YORK

LEONARD A. LAUDER CAROL HAMILTON JULIA GOLDIN DEB HENRETTA IAN GINSBERG THE ESTÉE LAUDER L’ORÉAL USA REVLON P&G BEAUTY & GROOMING C.O. BIGELOW COMPANIES INC.

ADDITIONAL SPEAKERS INCLUDE:

TINA ALSTER M.D., WASHINGTON INSTITUTE OF CORRINE JACQUES, RIVE GAUCHE DERMATOLOGIC LASER SURGERY BROOKE SHIELDS , ALLIANCE BOOTS NANCY SNYDERMAN M.D., NBC NEWS DREW BARRYMORE, FLOWER BERTRAND THOMAS, CAUDALIE MARLA MALCOLM BECK, BLUE MERCURY MATHILDE THOMAS, CAUDALIE GINA BOSWELL, UNILEVER PETRA TUCKER MOSS, FLOWER CLAIRE CHAMBERS, JOURNELLE LINDA WELLS, ALLURE FANG HUA, SHANGHAI JAHWA UNITED CO. LTD. CHRISTOPHER WEST, MARVIN TRAUB ASSOCIATES ALIZA JABÈS, NUXE GROUP WENDY ZOMNIR, URBAN DECAY

WWD.COM/BEAUTYSUMMIT TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425

SPONSORED BY 24 WWD BEAUTY INC CONSUMER CHRONICLES

STILA ALL IS BRIGHT LIP GLAZE REN CLEAN SKINCARE SET, $25 “It’s GLYCOL LACTIC a great deal RADIANCE RENEWAL because you MASK, $55 get so many lip Shimon uses this glosses for a twice a week to keep good price and her skin smooth. range of colors,” says Hayes.

KHROMA CREED BEAUTY MILLÉSIME K24 PRIME GOLDEN IMPÉRIAL, $155 MAKEUP PRIMING “It’s not too GELÉE, $14.99 sweet and kind Hayes heard of woodsy,” the Kardashians says Shimon. talking about this KATE SPADE on E! News and NEW YORK wanted to try it. KIEHL’S HENRIETTA MIDNIGHT RECOVERY MAKEUPCASE,$60 CONCENTRATE, $46 “I like that it’s not YU BE MOISTURIZING SKIN CREAM so expensive,” says SKINCEUTICALS CONCENTRATED GLYCERIN FORMULA, Shimon. PHYSICAL FUSION UV $15.99 Depending on their skin type, DEFENSE SUNSCREEN Hayes applies this cream to her BROAD SPECTRUM clients before makeup. SPF 50, $32 CINEMA SECRETS KIEHL’S POWERFUL “It’s really light,” PROFESSIONAL WRINKLE REDUCING CREAM, YU-BE LIP $52 Shimon wanted a she says, “but THERAPY, $5.99 BRUSH CLEANER, whenever I use this $14.99 Hayes likes preventative cream and “This lip liked the addition of SPF. I don’t burn.” conditioner has this because it an aromatherapy disinfects and smell that I love,” conditions. says Hayes. RÉVIVE MOISTURIZING ALMAY MOISTURIZING RENEWAL CREAM, $175 EYE MAKEUP REMOVER M-61 PADS, $8.99 POWERFUL “These take o! SKINCARE the makeup right HYDRABOOST away,” says Hayes. DR. DENNIS GROSS SKIN EYE HYDRATING “Sometimes, when it’s PEPTIDE AND too moisturizing it can CARE ALPHA EO GEL HAND SANITIZER BETA GLOW PAD VITAMIN B5 EYE IN LAVENDER, $4.99 burn the eye, but this CREAM, $78 leaves no residue.” FOR BODY, $18 Hayes says the lavender Shimon says scent helps clients relax. these give her RICKYCARE TRISH McEVOY skin an even APPLICATORS,$4 FLAWLESS tan while “I never use a LIP COLOR IN simulataneously brush directly on SEDUCTION, $28.50 exfoliating. somebody’s lips,” “I’m really into says Hayes. a nude pink lip,” says Shimon.

* * $94.94 UPPER WEST SIDE $699.50 TOTAL SPENT TOTAL SPENT *Pretax totals LAUNCH WINDOW

What’s in Lisa’s Bag? What’s in Erica’s Bag? With her kit in tow, ABC makeup artist Before a trip to Miami, Erica Shimon, 31, Lisa Hayes stopped at Ricky’s to pick up a headed to Blue Mercury to stock up on few essentials before work. Citing Urban sunscreen and skin care and purchase an M-61 Decay, Giorgio Armani, Nars and Yves Saint eye cream she had been given a sample of the Laurent as her go-to brands, the 28-year- last time she was in. “They’re very personable old spends around $15,000 annually on here,” says Shimon. “Sometimes when I go to beauty products. “It’s more than the average other stores, they don’t really know what they’re person, but that’s because I’m working on talking about, but here they seem really trained TV everyday,” says Hayes. “I’m constantly on the merchandise.” No stranger to beauty, purchasing new products for my clients.” the freelance makeup artist spends $3,000 to Once a month, Hayes likes to shop various $5,000 annually on beauty products. When stores to see what’s new. “I love to experiment she’s shopping, Shimon likes to use phone apps with new products,” says Hayes, “because not SHOPPER: Lisa Hayes like Pop Sugar and Beautylish to guide her to SHOPPER: Erica Shimon one line has it all and things work differently DATE/TIME: 3.12.2013, 2:20 p.m. new products and stores. But the beauty junkie DATE/TIME: 3.12.2013, 1:15 p.m. on different people.” When it comes to her STORE: Ricky’s is not so keen on reading product reviews. “I STORE: Blue Mercury own morning regimen, Hayes keeps it simple. LOCATION: 472 Columbus Avenue, used to, but not so much anymore,” she admits. LOCATION: 2305 Broadway, New York, N.Y. New York, N.Y. “Just Giorgio Armani foundation,” she says. “I “I realized that a lot of them were off. Maybe it’s have to be at work at 5 a.m., so that’s it for me.” because I’m in the industry.” SHOPPER PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; PRODUCTS BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PRODUCTS JOHN AQUINO; BY SHOPPER PHOTOS

%%3*;%%6KRSSHU6WDONHUDLQGG 30  ADVERTISEMENT

Recognizing Excellence in Luxury Service Colleen Hovsepian has provided outstanding MEET COLLEEN HOVSEPIAN service to Yves Saint YVES SAINT LAURENT BUSINESS MANAGER Laurent clients at Neiman Marcus, San Francisco, NEIMAN MARCUS, SAN FRANCISCO for eleven years.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO GET INTO THE BEAUTY BUSINESS? I have a passion for artistry. I like to delight my clients.

ANY ADVICE ON BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS WITH YOUR CLIENTS? Listen. Really listen. Everybody has wants, needs and desires. By listening, I try to fulfi ll that. Listening equals respect. Being honest equals integrity.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER AN ASPIRING MAKEUP ARTIST? Defi ne your style. And be nice to everybody. You don’t know what people’s back-stories are, so be kind, be compassionate, do your best and always be honest.

WHO WERE YOUR MENTORS? Wade Bandy was an inspiration for his clean look. And with Kevyn Aucoin, I learned the very fi rst smoky eye.

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER ASPIRATIONS? I would love to be a National Artist and to create color.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS? My utmost favorite is Forever Youth Liberator Serum. When I fi rst tried it, my best friend thought I’d had an injection of something. And love Touche Éclat, the glossy lip stains, and the Temps Majeur Eye Cream.

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE BEAUTY? Beauty is uniqueness. All people’s beauty is defi ned by their uniqueness.

DO YOU HAVE A CLIENT EXPERIENCE THAT WAS “Listening equals ESPECIALLY MEMORABLE? respect. Being honest A woman stopped in just for a Touche Éclat. I asked if I could put on a little eye cream and she said, “Don’t you try to sell me!” Then when equals integrity.” I slipped her the mirror, she noticed her puffi ness was gone. She instantly said, “I’ll take them both!” It was funny.

The L’Oréal Luxe Division is proud to partner with WWWWD Beauty Inc to recognize, eacach month, exceptional custoomemer service in luxury beauty. 26 WWD BEAUTY INC SMALL SCREEN DREAMS THE INFOMERCIAL BUSINESS IS BOOMING, WITH THE INDUSTRY’S GIANTS SOLIDIFYING THEIR POSITIONS AS NEW POWER PLAYERS TRY TO ANGLE THEIR WAY ONTO THE AIRWAVES. BY RACHEL BROWN / ILLUSTRATED BY JOSUE EVILLA

ess than a minute into a half-hour infomercial tailers and brands have taken notice, and the beauty infomercial for Miracle Skin Transformer, a persuasive business is booming. male voice intones: “Customers of Sephora, the As with most gold rushes, those that strike it rich are few. Info- top retailer in the world, have given Miracle mercials have unique financial dynamics that outsiders frequently Skin Transformer gold-star status.” Three min- can’t make sense of no matter how much they pay for TV time. utes later, the audience is introduced to brand (Olay, Clinique and Neutrogena have all experienced how tough founder Sarah McNamara as she’s speaking to it can be to crack the code.) Even for infomercial specialists, the customers inside a Sephora. financial picture isn’t as rosy as it once was. The digital revolution “That is the first time a retailer has ever partnered with an in- makes getting a sale over the phone—DRTV’s historical bread and fomercial and, obviously, Sephora is thrilled because they are be- butter—harder and harder, while media costs are poised to rise and Ling mentioned on an infomercial,” says McNamara. However, she competition is fierce. adds, “Sephora doesn’t think they are in an infomercial. Sephora Still, the cash is flowing. Multichannel marketing-analysis thinks they are in a beauty ad.” firm Marketsmith Inc. reported that spending on long-form or “As seen on TV” is becoming as seen, well, everywhere. Once 28-minute, 30-second beauty infomercials that run in the late considered a seedy vehicle for hucksters peddling kitchen gadgets night or earlier morning hours when there’s little else on TV in- and exercise gizmos, beauty marketers like Guthy-Renker, Bare creased 47 percent to more than $174 million in 2012 year-over- Escentuals, Murad, Philosophy and Mally Beauty have legitimized year, with almost 60 new beauty infomercials launched. In Janu- direct-response television (DRTV) as a sales channel. Prestige re- ary of this year, spending on long-form beauty direct-response

%%3*;:(//,QIRPHUFLDODLQGG 30  %%3*;:(//,QIRPHUFLDODLQGG 30  28 WWD BEAUTY INC

television ads climbed 38 percent compared to last year. would be: Who is the creator of the product and what is their vision? Why did they Short-form infomercials have seen massive growth, too. According to data pro- want to sell [their product?]” says Renker. “That’s the art of what we do.” vided by Kantar Media to Response Magazine, spending on the 30-second, 60-sec- “If your product shows before-and-afters and you have great testimonials, that is ond, two-minute, three-minute and five-minute spots that air throughout the day where you have had success on infomercials. If you don’t have that, this is not your totaled nearly $1.8 billion during the first three quarters of last year. Although the venue for selling,” says Kathy Fields, who, with fellow dermatologist Katie Rodan, fourth-quarter numbers weren’t out before WWD Beauty Inc went to press, if the developed Proactiv. “We are the acne queens. So, pimple, then no pimple is a great spending trends continued, 2012 would mark the most spending on short-form before-and-after.” Rodan adds, “The ingredient that made Proactiv so spectacularly infomercials since the 2008 economic crash. successful was that the brand served a need, not a want. Having a product that is a “The economy is growing. Our current advertisers are continuing to spend—they needed product and not something that is just desired is critical for success.” are introducing new products and supporting them—and we are getting interest Rodan and Fields make it sound simple, but the process of developing an effec- from advertisers who may not have been in DRTV before,” says Steve Miller, senior tive infomercial can be onerous. Atlantic Coast Media Group, marketer of Hydrox- vice president at short-form DRTV media agency A. atone, Keranique and Sarah McNamara Beauty Eicoff & Co. The agency cited Kantar Media informa- New York, spends $200,000 to $300,000 to pro- tion to summarize the skyrocketing spending on two- duce an infomercial, which is on the low end of a minute short-form spots: It jumped 117 percent from “WHO IS THE cost spectrum that ceo and founder Tom Shipley $638 million in 2007 to $1.39 billion in 2012. says is usually around $700,000 to $750,000, but On the consumer end, shopping via DRTV is incred- CREATOR OF can shoot up to $3 million to $5 million. ibly popular. Eicoff collected data from Experian Mar- To begin, Atlantic Coast will test four or five dif- keting Services’ Simmons National Consumer Study THE PRODUCT ferent infomercial scripts to start. “Our goal within that found TV orders from online, phone and catalog the first couple months is to find one or two win- sources rose 17 percent from spring 2011 to spring AND WHAT IS ning concepts and then increase the media spend 2012 and 30 percent from spring 2006 to spring 2012. to see if they have legs,” Shipley says. The company Consumers spending more than $1,000 annually as a THEIR VISION? often starts on radio before heading to TV; on aver- direct result of TV ads increased 26 percent between age, one out of 20 radio scripts is successful. When spring 2006 and spring 2012. During the same peri- THAT IS THE those successful radio scripts are translated for od, there was a 35 percent increase in consumers who short-form TV spots, one out of three are success- spent $150 to $199 annually and a 5 percent decrease ART OF WHAT ful. “Typically, we are looking for a profit target. We in those spending less than $50 per year. are looking for a minimum rate of return of 25 per- Beauty is by far the biggest category in direct re- WE DO.” cent on our media investment,” says Shipley. sponse. In the third quarter of 2012 alone, Kantar ROI is commonly understood, but the indicators Media figures show nearly $621 million was funneled into short-form drug and DRTV experts use to analyze infomercial success are decidedly not. A key indicator toiletry spots. The category in second place was household, furniture and appli- is the media-efficiency rate or MER. The MER is the return on a dollar of media ances with a comparatively meager $107 million in spending. In long form, Monica spending from the initial order. For example, a .4 MER means an infomercial mar- C. Smith, president and chief executive officer of Marketsmith, estimates there are keter is generating 40 cents immediately when a customer purchases a product for 15 major beauty players spending a total of $2 million a week on infomercials to every dollar spent on media. Other important indicators in the financial equation reach women primarily 15 to 55 years old. By all accounts, it takes outlays of at least include the cost per order, which covers the cost of acquiring a customer, and the $75,000 to $100,000 weekly to make the top-25 list of direct-response spenders. lifetime value of a customer, which factors in the additional revenue from future The money keeps on piling up. Guthy-Renker, the largest direct-response com- orders if customers are put on continuity programs. pany with some $1.5 billion in annual sales, predicts its media budget will esca- Tony Besasie, president of media agency Cannella Response Television, points late this year, according to cofounder Greg Renker. (To give an insight into Guthy- to an MER of 2 as the “fundamental benchmark” of infomercial success. “If you Renker’s girth, Kantar reports that the company shelled out almost $69 million on spend $100,000 on media a month, you should expect to see $200,000 in sales Proactiv Solution short-form spots in the third quarter, exceeded only by varicose that month,” he says. That’s a terrific goal, but Kevin Appelbaum, president and ceo veins remedy Livariz’s $70.6 million spend.) of Tria, says an average beauty infomercial probably generates an MER of .5 or .6. There’s no shortage of entrants into the direct-response space. In February, Mar- Infomercial beauty marketers are discovering the MERs of yesteryear aren’t being ketsmith reports that there were nine fresh shows, including relatively new en- replicated. “The media environment is now very competitive with increasing rates trants like MaxiLift, ElevenSkin and Elastin 3 in antiaging, Color Recover in hair and decreasing inventory,” says Marina Randolph, executive vice president of direct color and Haute Polish in nail. Smith says, “This space is going to explode even at Murad. “Beauty infomercials are lucky to get an MER of 1.0 today on the front end.” more with the consumer product giant entrants. This trend will not go down. You With the economy improving, media rates are expected to stay the same or rise. will see more entrants in the marketplace than ever before.” “Rates are a condition of the economic factors of the marketplace,” says Besasie. Granted, the lure of the infomercial is strong. But while they can be unbeliev- “If consumers aren’t ordering and consumer confidence is low, the rates need to ably lucrative, the hurdles are high. The industry standard is that eight out of 10 come down. If consumers are ordering, then there is a demand for media, and infomercials bomb, a ratio that has remained the same despite the fact that every- rates will increase.” one in the business knows the components of a winning infomercial: an efficacious Throw paychecks for celebrities into the mix and the road to profitability be- product that creates a change, before-and-after images that capture that change, comes more arduous. But it’s hard to unearth a DRTV executive who makes the compelling testimonials, a captivating founder and perhaps a celebrity or two for case against celebrities. Fields calls celebrities “channel stoppers.” “Celebrity still good measure, a broad potential customer base, an offer that customers perceive as works,” she says. It only takes a few minutes of watching Guthy-Renker’s Mean- having value, and sizable margins. (In ballpark terms, margins on beauty infomer- ingful Beauty infomercial to gauge the importance of star power: Cindy Crawford, cial products can be as much as 70 percent or as low as 30 percent.) and Valerie Bertinelli all make appearances in the opening minutes. “If Johnson & Johnson or Proctor & Gamble said to us, ‘You can have the keys to Social media has further increased the value of star power. Although social media the candy store. We want you to start marketing our products,’ our first questions is responsible for a tiny fraction of sales—Smith estimates only 3 to 5 percent for

%%3*;:(//,QIRPHUFLDODLQGG 30  WWD BEAUTY INC 29

long-form DRTV infomercials—the audience is crucial to building brand aware- version rates from calls can be as high as 65 to 75 percent, while online conversion ness. The audiences of the musicians Guthy-Renker has signed up as Pro- rates are generally 20 percent or less. Moreover, it’s tricky to tie online customers to activ spokespeople speak volumes. Justin Bieber has 36.5 million Twitter followers, specific infomercials, making gauging their success challenging. Katy Perry has 34 million and Adam Levine has nearly 4 million. “The 800 number is headed toward antiquity. Every year, we get fewer and fewer Celebrities or no, the profitability of infomercials can ebb if they are on air for 800-number sales,” laments Renker, who continues, “We control over 10,000 800 prolonged periods. The industry norm is to refresh the creative content about numbers, and every 800 number is trackable. We know what TV station caused every year and a half. Additionally, if they had the category to themselves when which sale. The problem with online is we don’t know what TV station caused that they launched, success attracts competitors quickly (see Bare Escentuals, which is sale. We become like a retailer that doesn’t know where a sale comes from. The thought by sources to have generated MERs of up to 4 with its initial infomercials, whole DNA of our business is measurable performance for our ads.” but is far from hitting those numbers of late. Bare Escentuals declined to comment While Guthy-Renker is investing heavily to snag customers online, the primary for this story). Ultimately, there may be a point at which an infomercial has touched strategy is aimed at older consumers who are more likely to remain loyal to the TV as many customers as it is probably going to. medium. “We are going to skew older in our demographic because I think women The No!No! hair-removal device is a high MER holdout so far. Dolev Rafaeli, beauty buyers have more extra income past the age of 50, more willingness to spend president and ceo of parent company PhotoMedex Inc., says its infomercials have greater dollars, TV habits reasonably similar to what they had before and, if you maintained an MER of 3.5 since it launched in DRTV in 2008. The company look at the bell curve, that’s where the people are,” says Renker. “I’m not going to go spends about $1 million a week in advertising and has spent about $150 million for the 20 year old.” over the last three years. No!No! requires a towering MER to make its infomercials profitable because it doesn’t rely on additional lifetime value. If an initial purchase is $89.95 plus $14.95 in shipping and handling, that $104.90 is probably all the he mind-set towards traditional retailers has shifted, too. product is generating in revenues on a majority of customers. Sephora, for instance, stocks Murad, Tria, Ouidad, bareMiner- In contrast, sources say that Guthy-Renker’s Proactiv relies on smaller MERs of als and Kate Somerville, all brands that have infomercials. Even roughly .6 to .8, but makes its infomercials work based on the lifetime value. Renker Guthy-Renker, which has largely avoided retail, is testing Wen at breaks down the MER situation by talking about Perricone MD’s Cold Plasma Sub- Sephora. “We want to be more channel agnostic,” says Randolph. D jawline, chin and neck products. Guthy-Renker offers two different collections of “We want to be where the customer wants to shop.” Later this the antiaging products at $49.95 and $79.95 per month versus $19.95 for its Pro- year, Murad will promote its availability at retail via its short-form infomercials. activ system. “We are taking in more dollars per order [for Sub-D] and therefore T“Right now, our infomercials sway against getting it in the store because we want we can afford to take in less reorder in the aggregate. On Proactiv, we take in less the urgency to buy now,” says Randolph. “It is still a higher margin for us to ac- dollars and, therefore, we need more reorder,” he says. quire a customer through DR than it is through the store.” Not too many marketers have mastered the reorder portion of the business. But the math can work in the favor of a brand. Smith estimates that for a single “The infomercial industry in general focuses too much on acquiring a customer DRTV order, infomercial marketers generate three to five retail orders, because it and not enough sophistication is happening retaining a customer,” says Ran- creates brand awareness and education and subsidizes advertising. In a survey of dolph. “A lot of people may offer some small additional benefits, but no one has people who watched Murad’s Resurgence infomercial, 58 percent said they would invested a lot on retention.” buy it in the store. “There is still a large percentage of people that will never buy Smith says most people pay for an infomercial product an average of 1.3 turns. “It on an infomercial because they want to touch and feel a product, and partly be- is between that second and third package where most people drop off,” she says. “A cause they don’t want to be on auto delivery,” says Randolph. good rule of thumb is that 70 percent of the people will cancel after the first leg and Rafaeli has experienced how distinct retail can be from infomercials. Three years then 30 percent fall off every leg after that.” ago, he recounts that No!No! entered around 110 Showcase stores in Canada priced The reliance on reorders is partly why skin care is such a sweet spot. Compared about $45 more than the infomercial price, and became a hot seller in the stores. to other categories, customers are willing to pay a premium for treatment products “That is mind boggling to us,” he says. “We did some consumer surveys. The rea- and stay loyal to them longer, which ratchets up the lifetime values commanded son is that people see it on TV, but they don’t buy it on TV. When they see it in the from infomercials. Many marketers also contend that it’s difficult to starkly present store, they buy it,” he continues. “Direct response accounts for a third of our sales. the benefits of hair-care products on air. Hair regrowth is an exception and, appar- Indirectly, we think it accounts for everything. By being such a big advertiser, we ently, so is Guthy-Renker’s Wen line, which Renker says shot from no infomercial communicate with retailers.” sales to $200 million in sales in just 24 months. Still, Renker maintains that excessive retail exposure is bad for a DRTV brand. It “Hair is a commodity. People look at it differently,” says Hillary Solomon, presi- can devalue the brand as customers hunt for sales, and can blunt the urgency to pick dent and ceo of Ouidad Holdings Inc. “You have to make sure that when you are up the phone that marketers are attempting to foster. “I don’t think there is a brand putting together a show, the viewer is going to say, ‘Wow, this is unique. This is on DRTV that has been around as long as Proactiv, and that is all because it has never different.’ There has to be a high perceived value. A shampoo and a conditioner been at retail,” he says. “When a brand is overexposed at retail, it is dead on TV.” Q would probably be a challenge because it is nothing unique. Wen has had such wild success because they took a commodity category, and they added that never-been- done-before wow factor that really created a lot of value for the customer.” It’s not just categories that are evolving. The infomercial channel is much more The Art—and Science—of the Infomercial multiplatform than in the past. “For 2013, the name of the game is a more hybrid High Ratings: Spending on infomericals has increased exponentially, up 47 percent last year and 38 percent thus far this year. campaign,” says Murad’s Randolph. “We spent 2012 measuring cross-channel im- Clear Parameters: The factors that contribute to success are well-known, including an pact. This is the year where we are going to integrate cross-channel promotions, e!cacious product, arresting before-and-after pictures and a compelling founder and backstory. including short-form campaigns, national print media, digital advertising, retail Star Power: Celebrities, called “channel stoppers,” are often enlisted as well, support, QVC, social media and e-mail marketing.” thanks to their instant appeal with viewers. Overall, there has been a surge in online ordering, which accounts for approxi- Changing Channels: Once relatively insular, infomerical brands are increasingly mately 40 to 60 percent of sales. On the plus side, such orders are cheaper because omnichannel, as marketers work to harmonize on-air, online and brick and mortar. marketers don’t have to pay for people to answer phones. The downside is that con- Broadening the Reach: The success of Wen hair care has marketers looking beyond skin.

%%3*;:(//,QIRPHUFLDODLQGG 30  MAXIMUM VOL

Hair by Dennis DeVoy for Art Department; makeup by Kaoru Okubo for Management Artists. Styled by Ada Kokosar at Artlist. Model: Carola Remer at One Management.

%%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG 30  UME MAXIMUM

HAIR CARE’S MOST SAVVY MARKETERS ARE CREATING MULTISTEP REGIMENS IN AN EFFORT TO ENTICE CONSUMERS INTO SPENDING BIGGER BUCKS ON THEIR CROWNING GLORY.

BY MOLLY PRIOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY VOLJONAS BRESNAN

Hair by Dennis DeVoy for Art Department; makeup by Kaoru Okubo for Management Artists. Styled by Ada Kokosar at Artlist. Model: Carola Remer at One Management.

%%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG 30 UME Marc by Marc Jacobs CURLS Runway Trend #1 Just Cavalli I K HARD; SANDER BY KUBA DABROWS KUBA BY HARD; SANDER AC ELPHINE mass-market hair-care brands have their way, shower nated by monolithic megabrands that offered something for everyone. We believe D shelves may soon get a lot more crowded. that time has passed. Instead, consumers are looking for expert brands with cus- The industry is out to convince women to add more tomized solutions and ranges that address their unique needs.” steps to their two-part hair-care routine, a strategy that The steady flow of new launches in the last 12 months—Pantene Expert Collec- could dramatically boost category growth beyond its tion, L’Oréal Paris Advanced Hair Care and Clear Scalp and Hair Beauty Therapy current rate of low-single digits. The move is borrowed included—has transformed the mass-market hair-care aisle, and the hair-care from skin care’s playbook, designed to educate shoppers benefits it trumpets. Over the last year, antiaging, scalp health and natural curl ERRETTI, LANVIN, MARNI, AND BY BY AND PRADA MARNI, LANVIN, ERRETTI,

that a regimen will optimal results. It’s also an at- have emerged as leading trends, upstaging broader concerns like shiny, healthy F tempt to reclaim ground from salon brands, which have hair. The trends mirror a changing consumer demographic, as both aging and HNER; C increasingly proliferated in the mass channel. more ethnically diverse populations wield more spending power. “Consumers are starting to understand the treatment Category growth has begun to respond, albeit modestly: Last year, hair-care BY STEVE EI STEVE BY process for hair,” says Shannon Curtin, divisional vice sales grew 3 percent to $8.4 billion across all channels, excluding salons, accord- C president and general merchandising manager for beau- ing to Euromonitor International. The antiaging lines—which feature a bevy of ty, personal care and seasonal at Walgreens. “Premium, speciality products, such as oils, volumizing powders and masks—are helping to salon-inspired items are having great growth,” she adds, drive growth, says Tim Barrett, U.S. research associate at Euromonitor. naming Pantene Expert Collection and L’Oréal Paris Ad- “Increasingly hair consumers are becoming more sophisticated and under- TÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; MAR TÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; vanced Haircare in particular. “Customers are looking standing that products work as a regimen of wash, care and treatment and they S for an affordable solution to salon trends.” are willing to invest,” says Boswell. That insight prompted Unilever to significant- To that end, hair-care brands are developing an onslaught of niche, salon- ly broaden its portfolio over the last three years, she adds. inspired lines tailored to specific needs in a concerted effort to move away from Currently, Unilever is working to encourage regimen-building with new offer- a one-size-fits-all approach. ings, such as Clear Scalp and Hair Beauty Therapy, Suave Professionals Keratin “The hair-care market is undergoing a massive, long-term transition,” says Gina Infusion and Nexxus Youth Renewal, an antiaging line that offers the brand’s first Boswell, executive vice president, personal care, for North America at Unilever, dry shampoo, as well as the Rejuvenating Elixir treatment. Boswell says the new which has a portfolio that includes Nexxus, Suave, TRESemmé, Dove and Clear launches “have been winning in the market, and driving more than 50 percent of Lanvin IfScalp & Hair Beauty Therapy, among others. “In years past, the category was domi- the category’s total growth in 2012.” BY CAVALLI MAESTRI; DAVID BY PHOTO VENETA

%%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG 30  Marc Jacobs Marc by

VENETA PHOTO BY DAVID MAESTRI; CAVALLI BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; MAR C BY STEVE EI CHNER; FERRETTI, LANVIN, MARNI, AND PRADA BY DELPHINE ACHARD; SANDER BY KUBA DABROWS KI %%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG Lanvin Prada Alberta Ferretti  Runway Trend #2 Runway

WET Jil Sander Marni 30 (1) ROWENTA The German brand will soon bring its high-tech Tool Time beauty tools—complete with all sorts of bells The newest styling tools aim to do more than and whistles—to U.S. soil. Of note: the Curl Active simply curl or smooth hair. Some of the latest Iron, which has a motorized, self-spinning barrel; improve hair quality as well, says Janet Taake, the Infini Pro Dryer that automatically shuts o! when set down and the Versa Style Iron, which senior vice president of merchandising at combines a flat iron, roller set and three curling Ulta Beauty. High-tech add-ons, like digital- irons in one tool. thermometer gauges, are prompting many Available in May at Ulta. $149.99 to $199.99 consumers to trade up to newer models. Retail sales for hair appliances, which includes stylers, (2) GHD dryers and trimmers, gained 1.74 percent to The British styling brand’s latest dryer, GHD Air, 74.6 million units in 2012, says Virginia Lee of ™ aims to give amateurs a professional edge. Euromonitor International. Here, some new tools The jet-black dryer features a salon-strength AC that promise to heat up the category. —M.P. motor designed to last longer than the average consumer dryer and to dry hair more quickly. GHD Air, which carries a two-year warranty, also incorporates ionic technology and temperature control to stave o! frizz and flyaways. Available at Sephora and select salons. $225

(3) DRYBAR The express blow-dry outpost doubled as a product lab to create a new line of tools designed by Drybar founder Alli Webb. Tested and refined with the help of nearly 1,000 stylists across 26 Drybar salons, the collection of canary-yellow heat styling tools carry playful, bar-inspired names, including The 3-Day Bender Curling Iron, Smooth Operator Flatiron and Buttercup Blow Dryer. Available at Sephora and Drybar. $125-$185

(4) THEORIE A newcomer to the styling scene, Theorie is bent on infusing its tools with high-end design elements. The blow dryers are handmade in Italy and powered by an AC motor that’s said š to cut drying time in half. Other items include the SAGA Touch Titanium Flat Iron, available ž in black, red, purple and blue, and the Digital Titanium 4 in One Curling System, which includes four interchangeable barrels and relies on metal ceramic heater technology to deliver fast and even heat. Available at select salons, Folica.com and Beauty.com. $150 to $250

(5) R SESSION PRO TOOLS Founders Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri’s recently revamped collection is the culmination of their years of experience styling hair for shoots, fashion HARD

shows and celebrities. Rizzieri says they plan AC to leave basic tools to others, instead creating ELPHINE

unique items like the Tidal Waver, a dual-barrel D curling iron that reaches 450 degrees and features digital temperature control, and the Mini AULTIER BY BY AULTIER Pinpoint Flat Iron, a petite iron designed to reach G close to the scalp for precious detailing. Available IANNONI; › at select Aveda Institutes and salons. $70 to $125 G IOVANNI IOVANNI

(6) HAIRMAX LASERCOMB G This FDA-approved at-home device, available in four models featuring a range of seven to 12 laser ERMANN BY ERMANN BY

modules, is designed to treat hair loss in men CK and women. It delivers laser light energy directly SEN; A

 CK

to the scalp, which is said to jump-start hair RI E follicles and hair growth when used three times œ a week for eight- to 15-minute sessions. Available at high-end department stores, including Neiman Marcus, and on QVC. $295 to $545 WANG PHOTO BY KYLE KYLE BY PHOTO WANG PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

%%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG 30  Runway Trend #3 (1) ROWENTA The German brand will soon bring its high-tech beauty tools—complete with all sorts of bells and whistles—to U.S. soil. Of note: the Curl Active E Iron, which has a motorized, self-spinning barrel; the Infini Pro Dryer that automatically shuts o! when set down and the Versa Style Iron, which combines a flat iron, roller set and three curling irons in one tool.

Available in May at Ulta. $149.99 to $199.99 ON

(2) GHD T The British styling brand’s latest dryer, GHD Air, aims to give amateurs a professional edge. The jet-black dryer features a salon-strength AC

motor designed to last longer than the average O consumer dryer and to dry hair more quickly. GHD Air, which carries a two-year warranty, also Alexander Wang incorporates ionic technology and temperature control to stave o! frizz and flyaways. Available at Sephora and select salons. $225 Haider Ackermann

(3) DRYBAR TW The express blow-dry outpost doubled as a product lab to create a new line of tools designed by Drybar founder Alli Webb. Tested and refined She anticipates the category will continue to grow at a 2 to 3 percent clip in between 200 and 250 percent above Pantene’s base line. with the help of nearly 1,000 stylists across 2013, but that the post-wash segment, comprised of conditioners and treatments, “All of our Pantene launches are off to a great start,” says Geiger. “There is not a 26 Drybar salons, the collection of canary-yellow is well outpacing that growth so far this year, gaining 8 percent year to date, not- single innovation from Pantene that is not performing at or above our expectations.” heat styling tools carry playful, bar-inspired ing “We are tapping into this growth area with our latest launches of Suave Pro- P&G also saw an opportunity to appeal to consumers’ love of nostalgia with the names, including The 3-Day Bender Curling Iron, fessionals Moroccan Infusion Moroccan Argan Styling Oil and TRESemmé Plati- relaunch of Herbal Essences, a move that returns to the brand’s iconic Nineties’ Smooth Operator Flatiron and Buttercup Blow num Strength Renewing Deep Conditioning Treatment.” translucent floral packaging. Also back are the original scents, albeit in formulas Dryer. Available at Sephora and Drybar. $125-$185 Unilever’s staunchest competitors, namely L’Oréal and Procter & Gamble Co., free of sulfates and silicone. The brand reshot its eyebrow-raising TV commercial, have also kicked their innovation programs into high gear. too, (the newest iteration features spokesmodel , screaming “yes, (4) THEORIE Karen Fondu, president of L’Oréal Paris USA, says the brand’s new Advanced yes, yes” in the airplane bathroom), which first aired during the Grammy Awards. A newcomer to the styling scene, Theorie is bent on infusing its tools with high-end design Haircare intends to move hair care away from a commodity category to a true Following the commercial’s premiere, Herbal Essences, using the hashtag #first- elements. The blow dryers are handmade in beauty need in consumers’ eyes. The collection—which was five years in the mak- time, was the number-one twitter trend for a 45-minute stretch, says Geiger. Italy and powered by an AC motor that’s said ing—consists of five clinically tested regimens of shampoo, conditioner and hair He hints that more launches are slated for this summer. “We have innovation in to cut drying time in half. Other items include treatment. The latter is billed as a critical step. The ranges, namely Total Repair spaces that are really pushing the envelop,” says the executive. the SAGA Touch Titanium Flat Iron, available 5 (restoring), Smooth Intense (frizz fighting), Power Moisture (hydrating), Color New introductions from megabrands—including Clear’s Ultra Shea and Pan- in black, red, purple and blue, and the Digital Vibrancy (color protection) and Triple Resist (strengthening), launched in Janu- tene Pro-V Truly Relaxed and Truly Natural—have also enlivened the multicul- Titanium 4 in One Curling System, which includes ary and could ring up $100 million in sales in its distribution of 35,000 doors. tural hair-care category. Category leader Soft Sheen-Carson says several of its big- four interchangeable barrels and relies on metal Fondu says the line is “encouraging women to adopt a three-step hair-care rou- gest launches this year—particularly Dark and Lovely Au Naturale, which marks ceramic heater technology to deliver fast and tine of shampoo, condition and treat to help hair look gorgeous and reach its opti- the brand’s entry into the natural hair segment, Dark and Lovely Go Intense! even heat. Available at select salons, Folica.com and mal health. The successful launch of Advanced Haircare is significantly contribut- Color, a high-pigment colorant infused with olive oil, and Optimum Amla Leg- Beauty.com. $150 to $250 ing to the growth of the category, which has been banal for several years.” end, a line formulated with amla oil to repair damage, are off to a strong start. (5) R SESSION PRO TOOLS P&G’s efforts also are focused on regimen building. The company, which Together, they’ve generated 800,000 YouTube views and Facebook impressions Founders Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizzieri’s recently launched 150 stockkeeping units across hair care and color in January alone, is after six weeks on the market, according to Nicole Fourgoux, vice president, gen- revamped collection is the culmination of their working to fill what it sees as underserved but growing benefit spaces, including eral manager of Soft Sheen-Carson. “These new items are selling faster than plan, years of experience styling hair for shoots, fashion antiaging, men’s, multiethnic and treatment products, according to Walter Geiger, trending at two times the sales level as anticipated,” says Fourgoux. HARD shows and celebrities. Rizzieri says they plan AC P&G’s vice president and general manager, North America, hair care and color. Products for textured hair are increasingly merging into the general market to leave basic tools to others, instead creating The company’s latest launches include Pantene Expert Collection, Head & Shoul- assortment at many retailers. ELPHINE unique items like the Tidal Waver, a dual-barrel D ders Old Spice 2-in-1, Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue, the relaunch of Herbal “Multiethnic has been a big delight in terms of growth,” says Curtin of Wal- curling iron that reaches 450 degrees and Essences and the reintroduction of Vidal Sassoon Pro Series. greens. “It’s part of our core assortment and we did add more space to natural features digital temperature control, and the Mini AULTIER BY BY AULTIER

G It’s an aggressive lineup, acknowledges Geiger, adding they all have purpose. “All curl. As more hair types start to emerge, this will be an area where we’ll see Pinpoint Flat Iron, a petite iron designed to reach close to the scalp for precious detailing. Available of our innovations have a very clear target audience and consumer profile,” he says. more growth. It’s not just about relaxers anymore.” She notes that Walgreens IANNONI; at select Aveda Institutes and salons. $70 to $125 G Speaking specifically about Vidal Sassoon, for example, Geiger says, “We are sa- calls out products for women with textured hair by style, such as natural curl lonifying the mass retail aisles in the U.S. We are building on Vidal Sassoon’s 85 and sleek and straight. “The Shea Moisture brand has been one of our most IOVANNI IOVANNI (6) HAIRMAX LASERCOMB G percent awareness and reemphasizing his positioning of salon genius and making popular lines,” says Curtin. This FDA-approved at-home device, available in our very best technology available at retail. Vidal Sassoon wanted to democratize The hope is that all the activity across hair care—and the collective call for four models featuring a range of seven to 12 laser

ERMANN BY ERMANN BY hair care.” He explains that all the products within the brand—including shampoo, regimen-building—will bolster growth well beyond the low-single digits in the modules, is designed to treat hair loss in men CK conditioner, styling, treatment and color—are designed to work together. years ahead. and women. It delivers laser light energy directly SEN; A P&G’s Pantene Expert range also is designed to encourage consumers to “The category is advancing from one where the guest simply used to grab her CK

to the scalp, which is said to jump-start hair RI E widen their regimen to wash, condition and treat. He called out Age Defy Ad- item and go, to one that is an inspirational beauty experience she wants to ex- follicles and hair growth when used three times a week for eight- to 15-minute sessions. vanced Thickening Treatment as a standout item in the Pantene Expert range. plore, be educated about and try new things in,” says Christina Hennington, vice Available at high-end department stores, including “It’s meeting a new need that’s building the category and recruiting a new cus- president of healthy and beauty at Target. “This new mind-set is creating even Neiman Marcus, and on QVC. $295 to $545 tomer. She’s trading up from current Pantene and she’s using an additional step greater demand for newness, innovation and improved technologies in antiaging,

WANG PHOTO BY KYLE KYLE BY PHOTO WANG in the regimen,” says Geiger. Items in the Pantene Expert Collection are priced scalp health and product efficacy.” Q PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

%%3*;:(//+DLUDLQGG 30  36 WWD BEAUTY INC PENNY PRESS

AS DOLLAR STORES SHED THEIR DOWDY IMAGE WITH MORE UPSCALE BRANDS AND AN IMPROVED SHOPPING EXPERIENCE, CONSUMERS—AND THE COMPETITION— HAVE TAKEN NOTICE. BY FAYE BROOKMAN / ILLUSTRATION BY J.D. KING

OR AN INCREASING NUMBER OF CONSUMERS—MORE THAN HALF OF ALL AMERICANS,

IN FACT—SHOPPING IN DOLLAR STORES IS MAKING MORE SENSE THAN EVER BEFORE.

NO WONDER. ONCE CONSIDERED DUSTY, DARK AND CRAMPED, THE MORE THAN 30,000

DOLLAR OR VALUE DOORS ACROSS THE COUNTRY HAVE UNDERGONE A MAKEOVER,

ADDING BRAND NAMES AND PRODUCT CATEGORIES THAT ARE RENDERING THEM A BIG-

GER THREAT TO DISCOUNT AND DRUGSTORES.

AN IMPROVED BEAUTY SELECTION IS PART OF THAT OVERHAUL, INCLUDING BRANDS

LIKE COVER GIRL, L’ORÉAL PARIS AND SALLY HANSEN. WHAT SUCH BRANDS ARE DISCOV-

ERING IS A RETAIL CHANNEL GROWING AT A PACE FASTER THAN STARBUCKS. DOLLAR

GENERAL, FOR EXAMPLE, ONE OF THE SECTOR’S TOP PLAYERS, WILL ADD 635 STORES

%%3*;:(//'ROODU6WRUHDLQGG 30 F %%3*;:(//'ROODU6WRUHDLQGG 30  38 WWD BEAUTY INC

this year to its 10,500 units and remodel 525 more. That translates into opening, You can’t be a marketer and ignore dollar stores anymore,” says Mottus. remodeling or relocating three stores per day. Family Dollar, another giant, plans Not many beauty companies are ignoring the signs. Although beauty as a cat- 500 more units in 2013. egory currently accounts for less than 2 percent of sales, it produces better profit The top-three dollar chains—Dollar General, Family Dollar and Dollar Tree—ac- margins than 80 percent of the other goods in the store, say experts. Virtually ev- count for 21,000 doors that ring up more than $56 billion a year, while retailers like ery mass brand, including L’Oréal, Cover Girl, Maybelline, Sally Hansen, Kiss and 99 Cents Only, Deal$, Fred’s Super Dollar, closeout king Big Lots and Five Below Wet ‘n’ Wild, has added dollar stores to their distribution over the past two years. comprise the remainder. A new value-store retailer will open next fall in the St. Personal-care brands from Procter & Gamble and Unilever are well represented, Louis market called Here Today, founded by former Save-A-Lot executives. too. While many traditional mass brands don’t want to discuss venturing into value stores for fear of irritating the likes of Wal-Mart or Walgreens, store visits reveal the same brands that are sold in nearby mass merchants on full display. For their part, shoppers see no shame in frequenting dollar stores. Judith Engle, for example, buys her TRESemmé hair spray and Nice ’n Easy hair color at her upstate New York Dollar General for the simple reason that it’s convenient. The 60-something retired mother likes to stretch her budget, but also has to drive 20 minutes to a drugstore, an hour to a department store. Engle buys paper towels here’s no denying the growth opportunities. “We believe and other household needs at Dollar General, so “why not mascara,” she reasons. we are well-positioned for future growth,” said Dollar The store near her opened in a shuttered supermarket—the only one in town— General’s chairman and chief executive officer Richard so Engle also purchases fill-in groceries. She’s not alone: Dollar chains are bank- Dreiling last year, noting the firm is forecasting 2013 ing on the existence of food to inveigle people to buy more full-price, high-margin sales to increase 10 percent to 12 percent. goods such as beauty and personal care. “Tide and Cheerios are the gateway to Industry consultant Allan Mottus points out, “You beauty [purchases],” says Candace Corlett, president of WSL Strategic Retail, don’t find drugstores and discount stores promising that.” who says the channel’s transformation from “tchotchkes” to well-known brands In fact, Deloitte reports that dollar stores have ef- has established respectability in consumers’ eyes. fectively nabbed market share from discount and drug A 2012 report by The Hartman Group called “Topography: Mapping the New Tmerchants over the past four years. The dollar channel expanded from 1.5 percent Consumer Pathways” came to a similar conclusion, noting “The allure of the bargain, of total consumer product goods sales in 2008 to 1.8 percent three years later. the thrill of the hunt, an influx of food and beverage products, all account for con- Drugstores declined from 25.2 percent to 24.1 percent and discounters from 49.4 tinued dollar stores’ success even in the face of post-recession economic recovery.” percent to 48.5 percent. While the recession drove a lot of shoppers to the channel, attracting penny- That trend is expected to continue. “Shoppers continue to face financial stress. pinching shoppers who wanted to buy smaller sizes of their favorite brands, a con-

VALUE ADDED ROUNDING UP THE MAJOR PLAYERS IN THE DOLLAR-STORE CHANNEL. —F.B.

Dollar General Dollar Tree Sales Family Dollar Five Below Fred’s Super 99 Cents Only Dollar 2012 Sales: $16 billion 2012 Sales: $7.3 billion 2012 Sales: $9.3 billion 2012 Sales (fiscal year): 2012 Sales: $400 million 2012 Sales (fiscal year): Store Count: 10,500 Store Count: 4,671 Store Count: 7,600 $418.8 million Store Count: 315 $1.95 billion Headquarters: Headquarters: Headquarters: Matthews, N.C. Store Count: 244 Headquarters: City of Store Count: 713 Goodlettsville, Tenn. Chesapeake, Virginia Commerce, Calif. Known for: Upgraded new Headquarters: Philadelphia Headquarters: Memphis, Tenn. Known for: New formats Known for: Keeping prices to stores with 500 more health Known for: Well-heeled Known for: An exciting with fresh layouts, updated a $1, unlike Dollar General and beauty-care items. New Known for: Close resemblance clientele known to frequent format targeted at tweens fixtures and improved and Family Dollar. Dollar format improves category to a drug chain and for filling the stores thanks to locations and teens. Five Below is assortments. Aggressive Tree concentrates its beauty adjacencies for easier in market holes where drug in or near a!uent California considered a cool place to expansion strategy with assortment on a brand called shopping. Recently inked a chains have closed. Many towns, including Beverly shop. Cosmetics has made a plans for 11,000 stores by the Colormates. deal with McLane Company stores even have pharmacies. Hills. 99 Cents Only is often in the merchandise end of 2013. Seventy percent to facilitate convenience Last year, Fred’s opened a considered the Cadillac of mix after taking a back seat of stores are in rural markets, foods. Consumables, including prototype smaller than its dollar stores. to novelties and candy. Now but the chain is planning to beauty, account for 69 typical 16,000-square-foot a public company, Five Below penetrate more urban areas, percent of total sales versus format to aid in launching is scheduled to open 60 including in California. 65 percent three years ago. into smaller communities. new stores in 2013 with an Former CVS exec Mike Bloom Fred’s has a well-developed ultimate goal of 2,000 doors. is expected to increase beauty ethnic hair-care presentation. and grooming selection. Plans 500 new stores in 2013.

%%3*;:(//'ROODU6WRUHDLQGG 30  WWD BEAUTY INC 39

vergence of several market forces over the past four The sweet spot, however, is those from house- years has further altered the landscape. Consolida- holds making less than $50,000. Of the primary tion in the chain drugstore industry opened up myr- households shopping dollar stores, 66 percent fall iad opportunities in terms of nabbing top personnel into that range, while Bloom said Family Dollar’s and locations. Stores vacated by the closing of chains prime shopper earns $40,000 a year or less and is such as in New Jersey offered dollar stores often a single mom in a household with kids. new sites in better locations in larger towns and cit- Deloitte Research identifies three buckets of dol- ies. Upscale Cranford, N.J. is a prime example—Dol- lar-store shoppers. While there are those that fit the lar General now sits in a former drug chain site. stereotypical image of someone waiting on a pay- The shrinking drugstore channel also provided check and filling in with small purchases from dollar fertile ground for executive recruitment. One of the stores, there’s also what the research company calls most high profile is the defection of Mike Bloom, the “rural, fixed income.” Engle, the upstate retired con- former executive vice president of merchandising sumer, falls into that bracket—she uses dollar stores and supply chain at CVS who is now president and for convenience and value. ceo of Family Dollar, a position he assumed in 2011. Then there are suburban moms, who become “With Mike Bloom there, you knew they’d be more born-again dollar consumers, according to Deloitte. interested in beauty,” said Markwins International “Sure, I worry That fits the description of Branchburg, N.J., resident president Bill George shortly after Bloom’s appoint- Heather Sanchez, who says she heads first to Five Be- ment, and he was right. Last year, according to Family about what Wal- low when her daughter wants fun beauty items. “My Dollar documents, the retailer added 500 more health shopping habits have changed in the past few years and beauty items to its mix. Dollar General’s Richard because of the economy and three kids in college,” says Dreiling was formerly chairman and ceo of Duane Mart might think, Sanchez. “The dollar stores aren’t dirty or full of bad Reade and before that he was executive vice president merchandise, so why not at least start there?” and chief operating officer at Longs Drug. “You’ve got but we give those And it just might be Sanchez’ college-age offspring people from Longs Drug, and CVS run- who help bolster support for value stores. “Many kids ning the stores now,” says one beauty executive, “so it partners the get introduced to dollar stores in college for their ra- isn’t surprising to see beauty get more important.” men noodles,” says Corlett. Millennials, a group not Granted, Dollar General has a way to go when it à la carte version, as channel-focused as Baby Boomers, see no shame comes to improving the visual presentation in some in shopping budget stores, either. stores. But progress is being made. Gone are tubular while dollar Latinos also skew slightly higher in incidence of fluorescent lights, dingy floors and crowded shelves. shopping the channel. Surprisingly, the Hartman The same is true at Family Dollar, where a new pro- stores are the research found almost equal shopping incidence be- totype has improved category adjacencies. “You see tween men and women. the influence Mike [Bloom] has had,” says David Despite the appeal of the demographics, one mar- Pina, the creative director at InStyle, an alternative drive-through.” keter who asked not to be named says he plans pene- fragrance company hoping to add a fragrance option tration into the channel with a slightly different offer in 2014 for dollar stores. than what he sells drug and discount stores. “Sure, I “The stores, such as Family Dollar, are being redesigned and are less cluttered,” worry about what Wal-Mart might think, but we give those partners the à la carte agrees Corlett. Fred’s and Five Below are also earning high marks. A Fred’s that version, while dollar stores are the drive-through,” he explains. opened late in 2012 in Foley, Ala., features lighted shelving, wider aisles and im- Be that as it may, the success of dollar stores has prompted other channels proved signage. “We have conducted extensive qualitative and quantitative re- to react with greater value, especially in beauty. Wal-Mart’s 15,000-square-foot search into what our customers and our competitors’ customers want in a shop- Express format is a development that retail analysts think could compete with ping experience,” says the retailer in a statement. “We feel Fred’s Super Dollar has Dollar General and Dollar Tree, while Target created a value presentation of $1 the ideal size, product mix and store flow to accommodate customers who are items right at store entry a couple of years ago. And if the current sales curve looking for a quick in-and-out shopping trip, or those who want a full-on bargain- is any indication, expect the competition to become ever-more fierce when it hunting shopping experience.” comes to where the buck will finally stop. Q The phrase “full-on bargain hunting,” is not one mainstream brands necessarily want to hear. And some national brands are sold for less in the value channel. A recent visit to a Family Dollar found Cover Girl Lash Blast Volume Mascara for $6 (suggested manufacturer’s retail price $8.95) and Suave Naturals advertising at 90 cents versus $1.79 at Walgreens. Ka-Ching! The Appeal of the Value Channel But most beauty items are sold at the day-in day-out suggested price: Engle’s Explosive Growth: Dollar stores are proliferating faster than Starbucks—literally. Nice ’n Easy hair color costs the same at Dollar General as at her drugstore. While Dollar General is adding 635 stores this year, Family Dollar, 500. Improved Shopping Experience: Dusty shelves and dark, cramped aisles have given a few chains, such as Dollar Tree, adhere to the dollar pricing, the major powers way to stores that are brighter, cleaner, easier to shop and in more convenient locales. sell items as expensive as $20 and up. The value often is in food, where special Dollar Is a Misnomer: While some beauty products are discounted, the majority are sold sizes or options are created for dollar stores. In addition, while there are closeouts at suggested retail prices. Other categories, such as food, provide the value proposition. in beauty and grooming, most stock is current. Wide Consumer Base: While the majority of customers have HHI’s of $50,000 a year Marketing experts say that the value shopper can support higher-priced offer- or less, a!uent shoppers are increasingly drawn to the channel as well. Ditto Latinos and men. ings. According to The Hartman Group, 50 percent of shoppers who hit bargain- Let the Battle Begin: Mass merchandisers like Wal-Mart and Target have taken notice, basement formats earn in excess of $100,000 or more per year. and are increasingly implementing their own value-driven strategies.

%%3*;:(//'ROODU6WRUHDLQGG 30  Makeup ™ š Hair Artists Stylists

BEAU NELSON NOTABLE RED- CARPET MOMENTS: Kristen Stewart EFF KRAVITZ/FILM MAGIC; MAGIC; KRAVITZ/FILM EFF at the Oscars, J 1 Nicole Richie for the Golden Globes, Jessica Chastain for the Toronto Film Festival in 2011 CLIENTS: Kristen Stewart, Lily Collins, Nicole Richie, Anna Paquin and Natalie Portman BRAND CONTRACT: Nelson is cofounder of the Beauté Cosmetics brand. SIGNATURE STYLE: Classic looks that are modernized with contemporary takes on color and texture. Kristen Kerry Washington GO-TO PRODUCT: Giorgio Armani Stewart Designer Lift Foundation

CAROLA GONZALEZ œ NOTABLE STEPHEN  RED-CARPET SOLLITTO MOMENTS: Kerry NOTABLE RED- 2 Washington at CARPET MOMENTS: the Oscars, the Amy Adams Golden Globes and the London premiere at the Oscars and Amy Adams 4 of Django Unchained BAFTA Awards, › ASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES; MARA BY DAVE KOTINSKY/GETTY IMAGES; WASHINGTON AT THE UK PREMIERE BY FRED DUVAL/FILM MAGIC FRED DUVAL/FILM THE UK PREMIERE BY AT WASHINGTON IMAGES; KOTINSKY/GETTY DAVE BY MARA IMAGES; MERRITT/GETTY ASON CLIENTS: Kerry Washington, Jaime King, Hailee Steinfeld for the Academy Awards J Rashida Jones and Naomie Harris and Screen Actors Guild Awards in 2011, BRAND CONTRACT: None Rebecca Hall for the premiere of SIGNATURE STYLE: Glowing skin and bold The Town in 2010 color choices for the eyes and lips. CLIENTS: Amy Adams, Hailee Steinfeld, GO-TO PRODUCT: Giorgio Armani Fluid Rebecca Hall, Gillian Jacobs and Alicia Vikander Sheer in #2 Noomi Rapace BRAND CONTRACT: None KRISTEE LIU SIGNATURE STYLE: Light, pretty and ASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES; WASHINGTON AT THE OSCARS BY MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMAGES; REUBEN BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIRE IMAGE; ADAMS AND VIKANDER BY BY VIKANDER AND ADAMS IMAGE; GRANITZ/WIRE STEVE BY REUBEN IMAGES; BUCKNER/GETTY MICHAEL BY OSCARS THE AT WASHINGTON IMAGES; MERRITT/GETTY ASON NOTABLE RED- natural makeup looks. J CARPET MOMENTS: GO-TO PRODUCT: Benefit Get Bent Gloria Reuben at Mascara in Black the Oscars, Bella Heathcote for 3 ADAM the Vanity Fair BREUCHAUD Oscar party, Angela Sarafyan for the 2012 NOTABLE RED- premiere of The Twilight Saga: Breaking CARPET MOMENTS: Dawn – Part 2

Alicia Vikander BY AND GARNER BANKS IMAGES; HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER KIDMAN BY AKE ROSENBERG; J CLIENTS: Gloria Reuben, Bella Heathcote, at the Oscars, 5 Isabelle Fuhrman and Angela Sarafyan Karolina Kurkova BRAND CONTRACT: None for the Vanity Fair Oscar party, Anne BY STEWART DUCHANGE; JEROME BY PHOTO GONZALEZ BY ROSZAK SIGNATURE STYLE: A light hand and Hathaway for the Kennedy Center Gloria Reuben flawless skin. Honors gala in 2011, Jessica Chastain at GO-TO PRODUCT: Giorgio Armani the Venice Film Festival in 2011 Luminous Silk Foundation CLIENTS: Bryce Dallas Howard, Karolina Kurkova, Kirsten Dunst and BRAND CONTRACT: None SIGNATURE STYLE: Softly-sculpted fresh skin and groomed brows. GO-TO PRODUCT: Eyeshadow RED CARPET WHIZ KIDS MEET THE RISING HAIR AND MAKEUP STARS OF THE HOLLYWOOD BEAUTY SCENE. COMPILED BY RACHEL BROWN

%%3*;:(//,W/LVWDLQGG 30  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT Hair ž Ÿ Stylists

MARA ROSZAK NOTABLE RED- CARPET MOMENTS: Zoe Saldana and 6 Nicole Kidman at the Oscars, Emma Stone at the Golden Globes in 2011 CLIENTS: Emma Stone, Zoe Saldana Samantha Barks and Mila Kunis BRAND CONTRACT: None SIGNATURE STYLE: Polished, yet e!ortless- looking hairstyles. GO-TO PRODUCT: Bobby pins and bungee cords from Boots

Rooney CREIGHTON Mara Nicole Kidman ington BOWMAN NOTABLE RED-

GES; REUBEN BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIRE IMAGE; ADAMS AND VIKANDER BY JEFF KRAVITZ/FILM MAGIC; MAGIC; KRAVITZ/FILM JEFF BY VIKANDER AND ADAMS IMAGE; GRANITZ/WIRE STEVE BY REUBEN GES; CARPET MOMENTS: KOTINSKY/GETTY IMAGES; WASHINGTON AT THE UK PREMIERE BY FRED DUVAL/FILM MAGIC FRED DUVAL/FILM THE UK PREMIERE BY AT WASHINGTON IMAGES; KOTINSKY/GETTY Samantha Barks ¡ 7 at the Oscars, at the 2012 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala, Melissa Leo and Helen Mirren for the 2011 Oscars JENNY CHO ¢ CLIENTS: Helen Mirren, , NOTABLE RED- , Renée Zellweger, Evan Rachel CARPET MOMENTS: Wood, Bryce Dallas Howard, Kelly Ripa Amanda Seyfried and Christina Aguilera and at the BRAND CONTRACT: None 9 SIGNATURE STYLE: Beautiful, approachable Oscars, Amanda hair with a modern twist. Seyfried at the Screen Actors Guild Awards GO-TO PRODUCT: Klorane Dry Shampoo and the Critics’ Choice Movie Awards, Carey Mulligan at the Grammy Awards ALEX POLILLO CLIENTS: Amanda Seyfried, Rosie NOTABLE RED- Huntington-Whiteley and Carey Mulligan CARPET MOMENTS: BRAND CONTRACT: Suave Alicia Vikander at SIGNATURE STYLE: Slightly undone, the Oscars, Rooney textured hair and loose waves. Mara at the GO-TO PRODUCT: Suave Professionals 8 New York premiere Moroccan Infusion Oil of Side E!ects, Cate Blanchett at the 2012 Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume TAKISHA Institute Gala STURDIVANT- CLIENTS: Rashida Jones, Alicia Vikander, DREW Rooney Mara, Ashley Benson, NOTABLE RED- Kristen Wiig and Gemma Arterton CARPET MOMENTS: Jennifer Kerry Washington Garner BRAND CONTRACT: None 10

GONZALEZ PHOTO BY JEROME DUCHANGE; STEWART BY JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES; WASHINGTON AT THE OSCARS BY MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMA BUCKNER/GETTY MICHAEL BY OSCARS THE AT WASHINGTON IMAGES; MERRITT/GETTY JASON BY STEWART DUCHANGE; JEROME BY PHOTO GONZALEZ DAVE BY MARA IMAGES; MERRITT/GETTY JASON BY AND GARNER BANKS IMAGES; HARRISON/GETTY FRAZER KIDMAN BY ROSENBERG; JAKE BY ROSZAK SIGNATURE STYLE: Hairstyles that are either at the Oscars, romantic and ethereal or graphic and clean. the Independent Spirit Awards and the GO-TO PRODUCT: Bumble and bumble London premiere of Django Unchained Surf Spray CLIENTS: Kerry Washington, Lucy Liu, Kerry Amber Riley and Gina Torres Washington BRAND CONTRACT: None SIGNATURE STYLE: Curls and messy waves. GO-TO PRODUCT: TRI Aerogel Hair Spray RED CARPET WHIZ KIDS MEET THE RISING HAIR AND MAKEUP STARS OF THE HOLLYWOOD BEAUTY SCENE. COMPILED BY RACHEL BROWN

%%3*;:(//,W/LVWDLQGG 30  $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT 42 WWD BEAUTY INC PRIVATE LIVES

Flex Time JAYME CYK discovers how skin-care entrepreneur Ole Henriksen gives new meaning to raising the bar. PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK HANAUER

or Ole Henriksen, flipping out is all in a day’s work. As is flying through the air, twisting, twirling, doing splits and executing a flawless Iron Cross on the Frings. Henriksen, the skin-care entrepreneur and celebrity facialist who sold his namesake brand to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2011, is an avid gymnast. “Part of keeping a youthful and vibrant appearance is about good posture, a strong body and a flexible body,” says the preternaturally youthful Henriksen, who has outfitted his backyard high in the hills of Los Angeles with uneven parallel bars and rings to facilitate his lifelong passion. “As a little boy, I dreamt of becoming a trapeze artist,” says Henriksen. “I wanted to join the circus and travel the world.” Growing up in the Danish countryside, gymnastics was very much encouraged in school. Henriksen excelled at the sport. “I turn 62 this year,” says Henriksen, “and I can tell you, even at this stage of the game, I feel no difference in my body and physical strength from when I was a young kid.” In addition to his hour-long, five-days-a-week backyard workout, Henriksen completes 300 push-ups a day to maintain his upper body strength. “I’m very focused on coordination and balance,” says Henriksen. “[Gymnastics] is great for your skin, too. When you think about it, the oxygenation goes to every part of your body.” In fact, some of his best ideas have come while hanging upside down. “So much of fitness is antigravity,” explains Henriksen. “That creates synergy in products for me. What I aim to do is create formulations with antigravity properties to lift and define the facial contours,” he continues. “The beauty of textured skin is that it’s mature and has beautiful expression lines. That reminds me of the beautiful fluidity and flexibility of a gymnast’s body. So I take my products to the max, just as I take my fitness to the max.” While Henriksen has traveled the world establishing his brand and continues to be heavily involved in the business post-acquisition, he hasn’t given up on that circus dream yet. “Watching professional gymnasts, their bodily strength and elegance, I’m awestruck,” he says. “I know I cannot go out and emulate them, but it does inspire me to go on and on,” he continues, adding with a laugh, “When I do I retire, I’ll apply to join in Las Vegas.” No doubt they’d snap him up.

%%3*;3ULYDWH/LYHVDLQGG $0 

CHANEL.COM NORDSTROM ® NCE CHA , ® B , Inc. Inc. , ®

IT’S YOUR CHANCE. EMBRACE IT. ©2013CHANEL