AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY HOLLYWOOD’S RED CARPET WHIZ KIDS INFOMERCIAL-MANIA DOLLAR STORES CASH IN GIVE ME MORE! THE NEW MARKETING MANTRA IN HAIR CARE %%3*;&29(5DLQGG 30 $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT WWD BEAUTY INC 3 FEATURES 26 Small Screen Dreams The infomercial channel is booming as established players look to solidify their CONTENTS position amidst an onslaught of new entrants. 30 Maximum Volume Hair-care marketers are aiming to transform the way women approach hair-care regimens—and pump up sales to boot. 36 Penny Press As one of the fastest-growing channels in retail, the value-oriented dollar stores are now also the most competitive. 40 Red Carpet Whiz Kids Hollywood’s hottest young hair stylists and makeup artists. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 8 The Laugh Master Under Aurelian Lis, Benefit’s humorous ethos has flourished, but the brand’s explosive growth in North America is no joke. 10 Black Book: Brooke Wall The super-chic founder of The Wall Group shares her favorite L.A. haunts. 11 My First Job: Jerrod Blandino Getting creative at Chuck E. Cheese. BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Pop Rocks Spring’s bright color palette. 16 Launch Window Key products hitting stores now. 18 Singular Sensations Inspired looks from the European runways. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 20 Tinseltown’s Newest Beauty Destination Testing the waters at Hollywood’s swanky new Walgreens. 24 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and why– on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. MISC 6 Pete Unplugged Pete Born, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, surveys the global indie beauty scene. 42 Flex Time Ole Hendriksen flips out. ON THE COVER: Carola Remer at ONE Management The season of photographed exclusively for WWD Beauty Inc by statement-making Jonas Bresnan. Makeup by Kaoru Okubo for NARS at hair styles: Page 18. Management + Artists. Hair by Dennis DeVoy at Art Department. Styled by Ada Kokosar at Artlist. PHOTO BY JONAS BRESNAN JONAS BY PHOTO WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 205, NO. 75. SATURDAY, April 13, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. 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MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. %%3*;72&DLQGG 30 $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT 4 WWD BEAUTY INC EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Going for the Growth JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR he book Granularity of Growth was published in 2008, but it is a MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR concept that has become especially ubiquitous today in beauty as BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS growth plateaus in traditional sectors. As a result, marketers are forced JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT OLIVIA LANDAU EDITORIAL INTERN to create new opportunities in unexpected places, and many have done KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR so with spectacular results—to wit, Clinique’s Even Better Clinical ART TDark Spot Corrector, which blasted open the brightening category in the U.S. BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR Although the stories in this issue of WWD Beauty Inc are very diverse, they have CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), a common thread: The retailers and categories featured are all experiencing CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), explosive growth in a period when single-digit increases are the norm. MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) Take the dollar store channel of retail, which is growing at a pace faster than PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR Starbucks, reports WWD’s contributing editor and mass-market expert, Faye LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Brookman. This year alone, two of the biggest players will open more than ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER 1,000 new stores combined, and the channel is expected to continue nabbing EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR market share (and top executive talent) from drugstores and discounters. JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, Brookman explains what this means for beauty in “Penny Press” on page 36. THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS Another fast-growing and ever-evolving channel is infomercials. The CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, direct-response television business is booming—spending increased 47 BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, percent in 2012 and was up 38 percent in January alone this year—but as JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO many brands are discovering, a big spend doesn’t necessarily translate into BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING big sales. WWD’s West Coast–based beauty reporter Rachel Brown talked to PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER the industry’s most successful practitioners to discover what it takes to win JENNIFER MARDER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR today and the foundation brands are laying for a multiplatform future. The ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR results are in “Small Screen Dreams” on page 26. COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER BAVA GUGLIELMO INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR Mass-market hair-care brands are also looking for a big win. After years of OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY stagnant growth, the category has been energized in the past 16 months by an CHRISTOPHER SANTORELLA BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT onslaught of launches—more than 500 new stockkeeping units alone from MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING the industry’s biggest names. This generation of innovation has a singular EMILY CORTEZ EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING goal: to transform consumer’s behavior and convince women to evolve their MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR hair-care regimens into multistep programs that mimic skin care. “The hair- JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR care market is undergoing a massive, long-term transition,” Unilever’s Gina JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR ALEXIS WARCHALOWSKI DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Boswell told beauty financial editor Molly Prior. “Increasingly hair consumers BRIANNA LIPOVSKY ASSOCIATE MARKETING DIRECTOR JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER are becoming more sophisticated and understanding that products work as a MICHAEL FOUNTAS MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING regimen of wash, care and treatment and they are willing to invest.” The early ALISSA GROSS MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING JESSICA CASEY MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING numbers bear out Boswell’s optimism. Find out how the market is expected to AMANDA MULLAHEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING DANIELLE K. STEWART MARKETING COORDINATOR evolve this year in “Maximum Volume” on page 30.