OWNER'S MANUAL Studebaker President Eight

131 and 121-inch Wheelbase Models

THE STUDEBAKER CORPORATION OF AMERICA sotJT1-IBEND, INDIANA, LICENSE DATA Number of cylinders Cylinder Bore 3% inches Stroke inchqs Piston Displacement 336 cubic inches Horse power (N. A. C. C. Rating) Wheelbase 131 and 21 inches Engine Number—On top surface of fan bracket boss. Serial Number—on plate riveted to frame under left front fender. Body Number-—On plate attached to front of dash under hood. on the weight of any model can be ob- tained from the dealer.

The Use of This Book For the convenience of the owner we have divided the book into three sections, "Operation," "Care" and "Adjustments." The first section, starting on page 5, contains driving sug- gestions and information on the instruments and controls. This section of the book is of great importanceand should be thoroughly read by every owner no matter how experi- enced a motorist he may be. The second section, starting on page 16, carries instructions on the lubrication and care of the car, including many details which will be of interest to every owner. The third section, starting on page 35, covers in detail a number of adjustment operations. To the car owner who desires to take advantage of the facilities of a Studebaker- Erskine Service Station, this section may not appeal and it need not be read unless desired. The book should always be kept in the car, however, as this section may prove of value, if at any time when touring, it is necessaryto go to a garage not familiar with the car. Luckily, with the fine net- work of Studebaker-Erskinedealers, this can seldom happen. In this connectionshould be noted the advantages of pre- ventive maintenance. The experienced motorist will see the folly of waiting until his car actually needs repairs before go- ing to his dealer. He will take his car periodically to a Stude- baker-Er*kine Service Station for inspection and adjustment thus preventingthe possibilityof serious difficultyresulting from neglect. While this practice may seem extravagant on the surface, it actually is economical. It is one of the best kinds of insurance you can buy. The investment is small and it keeps your car working at full efficiency. Factory Warranty E WARRANT each new motor vehicle sold by us, whether passenger car or commercialvehicle, to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service, our obligation under this warranty being limited to making good at Studebaker factories any part or parts thereof which shall, within three months after delivery of such vehicle to the original purchaser, be returned to us with transportation charges prepaid, and which our examina- tion shall disclose to our satisfaction to have been thus defec- tive ; this warranty being expressly in lieu of all other warran- ties and representations express or implied and of all other obligations or liabilities on our part, and we neither assume nor authorize any other person to assume for us any other liability in connection with the sale or use of our motor vehicles. This warranty shall not apply to any motor vehiclewhich shall have been repaired or altered outside of Studebaker fac- tories in any way so as, in our judgment, to affect its stability or reliability, nor which has been subject to misuse, negligence or accident; nor to any commercialvehicle sold by us which shall have been operated at speed exceeding the factory rated speed, or loaded beyond the factory rated load capacity. We make no warranty whatever in respect to tires, rims, ignition apparatus, horns, or other signaling devices, starting devices, generators, batteries, speedometersor other trade ac- cessories, inasmuch as they are usually warranted separately by their respectivemanufacturers. THE STUDEBAKER CORPORATION OF AMERICA SOUTH BEND, INDIANA Service Agreement Between Studebaker Dealer and Purchaser

As Studebaker dealers we have assumed the following responsibilities: 1. Within ninety days after the delivery of a new Stude- baker or Erskine car to Purchaser we will install at our Service Station, free of labor charges, any parts that the Studebaker factories furnish free of cost to replace parts found defective, in accord with the Factory Warranty printed on Page 68. Purchaser will assume cost of parts and installation of same pending Factory decision. Purchaser will be notifiedpromptly of the decisionof Factory re- garding allowanceof claim for replacementor repair of parts re- turned. For service and replacementson engine, tires and rims, we will furnish the address of the nearest service station maintained by the manufacturerof this equipment. 2. For thirty days following the delivery of a new car to Pur- chaser we will make free of charge inspections and adjust- ments not necessitated by neglect or abuse. "Inspection" includes examination and report as to the condition of the car. "Adjustment" includes only such adjustments as are necessary to put the car into good operating condition. No responsibility is assumed for adjustments made in service stations other than our own. No promise of service, free repair work, inspection or adjustment ex- cept as above specified, shall be binding on us. When it is necessary, for the convenience of Purchaser, to render service at a distance from our service station, the time spent by em- ployees going to and from the job will be charged for at the regular rates of the station, together with all proper expenses of making the trip, cost of shipping parts, if any, and other necessary incidental expense. Any overtime, holiday, or Sunday work done upon the request of Pur- chaser will be charged for at the regular overtime rate. Use Your Studebaker-Erskine Service tion and Genuine Studebaker-ErskineSta. HE Studebaker Corporation has time and energy in aiding spent a great its dealers to give deal of satisfactory service to the owner. A great efficientand dealers' mechanics have attended our service many of our factory and all dealers are constantly aided school at sent out almost daily by service the mation from the factory in infor- manuals, bulletins and personal visits from the form of our representa- Our dealers have in stock genuine Studebaker-Erskine which are approved only after the vigorous tests parts, of our lab. Why should you jeopardize the life and efficiency car by having your repair work done at other of your Studebaker-Erskine than an author ized Service Station? You would _ knowinglyconsent to the use of inferior parts in not parts made to look like the genuine and which your car, same but which are you are told are the made to sell at a price which allow the unauthorized garage, with their lack of will factory aid and their inefficient service tools and methods to make a profit. Yet by patronizingthem you-may be tacitly agreeing branches are to it. Our factory located throughout the country. At each one of them is located a District Service are to keep in touch Manager whose duties with the dealers in his terri- tory, advisingand helping them with their service problems. While all matters concerning the operation of your car should be taken up with the Studebaker-Erskine dealer from whom it was purchased, it may be you will sometime desire some in- formation from the factory. In this case, learn from your dealer the location of the branch under which he operates and write to the District Service Manager at the address given on page 53.

Lock Your Car If your car is stolen you may have to miss an appointment, ride home in a train or trolley, or give up that motor trip. You will have to do without a car until the insurance company settles, the car is recovered or until you can get delivery•of a new car. You may not lose a cent if the car is covered by insurance, but there's the nuisance of filling out insurance blanks, to say nothing of loss' of time, temper, patience and possible damage by a joy rider. Lockingis part of parking. BE SURE TO LOCK YOUR CAR. The greater the number of cars stolen the higher the insur- ance rate you pay. Stealing of unlocked cars is frequently but an incidentto somemore serious or terrible crime. Why help the criminal? Inspection and Adjustment at 500Miles HEN the new car has been driven five hundred miles, or before the end of the first month, it should be taken to the service station of your dealer for inspectionand adjustment. The various parts of the car have then experi- enced the period of initial service and it is important that the car bc inspected and the necessary adjustments made at this time. The car should be thoroughly examined including the following items : Adjustment of front wheel bearings. Alignment of front wheels. Adjustment of steering gear. Examine for water, oil or gasoline leaks. Adjustment of fan belt. Adjustment of tappets. Adjustment of carburetor. Check engine to see if hitting properly. Check ignition timing. Check operation of oil filter. Tighten cylinder head scre\vs. Check engine oil pressure. Check generator charging rate. Check clutch adjustment. Examine for oil leaks at transmission and rear axle. Adjustment of brakes. "l'ighten all spring clips. Tighten car all over. Check for squeaks and rattles. Mention any difficulty you may have concerning the car when you take it in for this inspection and adjustment. There will possibly be other details the dealer will desire to look after at this time. Do not delay in taking the car in after completing the •first five hundred miles. A minor adjustment neglected at this time is likely to make necessary a Inore serious repair at some future time. OPERATION Before Operating a New Car The following instrutnents are shown in Illus. Nos. 1 to 3, pages 54 to 56. Horn Button The horn button is located at the center of the steering wheel. The horn is operated by pushing down on this button. Throttle Lever and Foot Accelerator The throttle lever is at the upper right-hands side of the center of the steering wheel. It controls the engine speed and may be used to vary the speed of the car. It is fully closed when in the upward position. The foot accelerator also controls the speed of the engine in a man- ner similar to the throttle lever. Pushing on this with the foot increases the engine speed. The foot accelerator being returned by a spring to whatever position is located by the throttle lever, makes a very flexible control for average driving. On long stretches of country road, where the speed is fairly constant, the throttle lever may be used. Care must be' taken, in using these controls, not to race the engine when idle. Great harm can be done to an engine in this way, particu- larly if it is new or cold. Spark Lever A spark lever is located at the upper left-hand side of the center of the steering wheel. It is fully advancedand in position for ordinary driving when in its upward position. It may be retarded downward for starting the engine or when the engine is pulling heavily at low speeds. Carburetor Dash Control The carburetor dash control is a button on the instrument board marked "C". It is used as an aid to starting and as such is indis- pensable. Read carefully the instructions on starting the engine on Page 13. Intake Manifold Heat Control A button located on the instrument board, directly above the steering column operates the manifold heat control valve. This button is marked "H" and may be pulled out to open the valve and pushed in to close it. The heat control valve should be open under all ordinary driving con- ditions. Only in extremely hot weather or continuousdriving at high speed should this valve be closed. Ignition Switch See "Steering Gear Lock" on page 7. 5 6 OPERATION

Lighting Switch Lever The lighting switch lever is located at the lower center of the steering wheel and controls the lights. Several positions of this lever are pos- sible, giving different combinations of lamps and dimming, which are all marked on the dial at the center of the steering wheel. Clock (131-inch wheelbase model). A high-grade, stem-wound, stem-set clock is mounted in the instru- ment panel. Do not wait until it is completely run down to and do not wind it too tight. rewind it, Ammeter This instrument indicates in amperes the current passing to or from the battery. The pointer resting on the scale marked "Charge" indi- cates that the generator is charging the battery. The pointer resting on the scale marked "Discharge" indicates that the battery is discharging. With all lights off, the ammeter should read "Charge" at speeds above ten miles per hour. If it does not, refer the matter to a Studebaker- Erskine dealer. Engine Oil Pressure Gauge This is a part of the engine lubricationsystem. Movementof the pointer indicates that oil is being pumped to the engine. The gauge should begin to show pressure as soon as the engine is started. Failure to operate is a danger signal, and the engine should be stopped immediately. See page 20 on this subject. If unable to remedy it, refer the matter immediately to a Studebaker-Erskinedealer. Gasoline Gauge The gasoline gauge on the instrument board, indicates, in gallons, the amount of gasoline in the main tank, less about one gallon for a reserve. Therefore, as the gauge nears the "empty" position, the gas- oline in reserve will prevent the engine from stopping before the supply can be replenished. The gauge on the 131-inchwheelbase model is opera- ted electrically and registers only when the ignition switch is on. Heat Indicator The heat indicator is a dial reading thermometer, located in the instrument panel on the instrument board, and shows the temperature of the water in the cooling system. The dial is marked "Cold," "Driving Range" and "Danger." If the needle on the dial should register in the "Danger" range it in- dicates an over-heated engine. The engine should be stopped and in- spected for lack of water or oil, broken fan belt or other conditions which might cause over-heating. NOTE—If the car is being operated at high altitudes, or if alcohol is used in the radiator as a non-freezing solution, the boiling temperature will be slightly lower, and this must be kept in mind when reading the instrument. OPERATION 7

Speedometer The speedometer indicates the miles per hour the car is traveling and is operated by a gear in the transmission. It also indicates the trip and season mileage. The former can be turned back to zero at will. (See page 25.) Instrument Lamo Instrument lamps are provided for illuminating the instrument panel and a dash light for illuminating the steering gear lock and front com- partment. Both lights are controlledby a two way switch at the lower inside edge of the instrument panel. Cigar Lighter The cigar lighter, on models equipped with this instrument, is mounted at the right-hand side of the instrument board. The lighter is operated by pulling out the cord and pressing the button located in the body of the lighter. Windshield Wiper The windshieldwiper is located at the top of the windshield,directly in front of the driver's seat, and is controlledby a valve on the instru- ment board. Steering Gear Lock The steering gear lock combines the purpose of an ignition and steer- ing gear lock. Turning the key in the lock, locks both the steering and ignition and the word "LOCKED" appears in the slot in the lock face. After unlocking the car the word "OFF" appears in the slot and the ignition must be turned to "ON" by means of the lever on the right- hand side of the lock before the engine can be started. The steering and ignition cannot be locked while the word "ON" appears in the slot. This makes it impossibleto lock the car while the engine is running or the ignition is on. With the steering gear unlocked the ignition can be turned on or off by means of the lever on the side of the lock and this must always be in the "OFF" position before the car can be locked. NEVER TURN THE KEY IN THE LOCK WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION. Windshield Regulator Handle The windshieldis adjustable by means of a handle located on the in- strument board (Illus. No. 1.) It may be adjusted to two ventilating positions either of which permits free air circulation, cooling the inte- rior of the car efficiently,but without the usual violent passage of air. This windshield, in connection with the specially designed passage under the cowl, constitutes the Studebaker Ventilating System. Position for Full Ventilation—Byrotating the handle to the left the windshieldis moved entirely to the rear, air entering through an open- ing in front of the instrument board and circulating around the driver's legs in the front compartment, and then through all other parts of the 8 OPERATION car. It may be left open even in a rain, gutters being provided carrying off water. One or both of the rear for quarter windows must be IoWeredone or two inches to permit the impure air to escape. Second Position—By rotating the handle to the right the windshield is moved forward. Air is then directed upward over the (not against his chest). driver's head Closed Position—When closed, the windshield is in the center position, at the moulding running across the cowl. When closing it from the rear position, always move it well forward then bring it back so that weatherstrip will be on the outside of the moulding. the For Winter Driving—In winter it will usually be found best to move the windshield forward slightly. This will keep the windshield clear and admit a moderate amount of air. Cold weather makes warmth in the driver's compartment desirable rather than the reverse. Parking Brake Lever This lever operates a brake band contractingon a drum at the rear end of the transmission and may be used to secure the car when stand- ing still. To engage the brake, pull the lever straight back. To dis- engage it, press the release at the top of the lever and move the lever forward as far as it will go. Care must to taken that this lever is in an extreme forward position when the car is being driven, otherwise the brakes will drag and overheat. Clutch Pedal The clutch pedal is a means of releasing the clutch and so disconnect- ing the engine and transmission. This is necessary in shifting gears. Service Brake Pedal By pressing the pedal, internal expanding brakes in the front and rear wheel drums are actuated to overcomethe momentum of the car. For description and adjustment see page 47. Starter Switch Pressing on this switch, located in the toe board, causes the starter to crank the engine. Oil Level Indicator The oil level in the oil pan may be determined by means of the bayonet type oil indicator inserted in the left-hand side of the crankcase. (Illus. No. 3, page 56,) Pull otlt the rod, wipe clean ancl out it back, bc- ing sure to push it clear down. Pull it out again and tie amount Of Oil in the oil pan will bc indicated by thc height of oil on the rod. Emp ty and full positions arc shown by grooves. Do not allow the oil to get much below the full position. In replenishing the oil, put in only enough to bring the level to the full position. The oil filler opening is in the left-hand side of the crankcase. OPERATION 9

Lubrication Before operating a new car, refer to the lubrication chart and see that all oiling and greasing operations have been carefully carried out. Most important of all, see that the oil in the engine is at the proper level and always keep it there. Failure to observe this will be costly.

Cooling System In moderate weather the radiator should be kept filled at all times with clean, soft water. The capacity of the cooling system is 5 gallons, 1 quart. In temperatures below freezing it will be necessary to use an anti- freeze solution or drain the radiator each time the engine is allowed to cool. (See page 21.) Gasoline System Be sure that the gasoline tank is full before starting out. Watch the gauge and do not let it reach "Empty" before refillingthe tank. Tires See that the tires are inflated to the•correct pressure. See page 29.

Driving Suggestions Brakes Always see that the brakes are in first-classcondition. It is reckless driving to use a car without proper brake control. (See "Brakes," page 47.)

Driving in High Speed Merely because a Studebaker will take almost any hill or sandy road in high gear do not always subject it to that strain. The skillful driver changes to second gear before the engine begins to labor.

"Riding" Clutch Pedal Keep the foot off the clutch pedal except when actually engaging or disengaging the clutch. "Riding" the clutch pedal will cause slipping of the clutch and excessive wear on the clutch discs and release bearing. Starting on a Hill Apply the parking brake. Disengage the clutch and shift to first gear. Let the clutch in slowly, at the same time accelerating the engine with the foot accelerator and gradually releasing the parking brake. 10 OPERATION Stopping on a Hill Stop the car in the usual way and apply the parking brake Cramp the wheels in such a position that if the car firmly. should move,it On very steep hills it is well to block the wheels. Descending a Hill In descendinga steep or dangerous hill close the throttle the engine to assist the brakes in retarding the and allow descent of the car. In descendingexceptional hills, it is advisable to change to second or even to first gear, in this way obtaining great braking action engine. Always leave the ignition on. from the Backing the Car Extreme caution should be used in backing until the car is learned. action of the During Cold Weather Continued use of the starter will discharge the battery. Pull the carburetor dash control button "C" clear out in starting the engine but do not leave it out unnecessarilyafter the engine starts. Make sure that the intake manifoldheat control button out. "H" is pulled Change the engine oil frequently, as explained,on page 19. Use an anti-freeze solution in the radiator. (See page 21.) Test the battery frequently and see that it is kept fully charged. Do not race the engine in starting the car on a slippery pavement. Run the engine slowly and engage the clutch gradually. Lamps and Accessories For night driving in the country, the lighting switch should be turned to the "Bright" position. In passing another car and for city driving turn the lighting switch to the "Dim" position. For parking, turn the switch to the "Park" position. Unusual Conditions After you have driven your car for a time, you will be familiarwith all its actions and peculiarities. If any unusual soUnd or condition occurs refer the matter immediately to a Studebaker-Erskinedealer. OPERATION 11

For Safety When about to make a right-hand turn, approach the corner on the extreme right. Do not drive up the mid- dle of the street before making a right turn. This would necessitate cutting across in front of the car behind and would place the responsibility of an accident upon you.

When about to make a left-hand turn, approach the corner near the center of the street, but not on the left- hand side. Do not drive up on the extreme right and do 8 not cut diagonally across the corner. Approach the in- tersection as illustrated and make a sharp turn to the left.

Keep to the extreme right when going around a turn in the road. This will avoid all interferencewith any car coming from the opposite direction. Never attempt to pass a car going in the same direction on a curve, as this would necessitate driving out near the left-hand side.

Keep to the extreme right when going over a hill and do not pass a car going in the same direction when near the top as this would put you directly in the path of a car coming over the hill from the opposite direction.

Many accidents happen because automobiles become stalled on railroad tracks. It is wise to shift into second speed before crossing railroad tracks, particularly if there is a slight grade at the crossing,or if the tracks are ob- scured by hills, trees or buildings.

Drivers should stop ten feet behind street cars which have stopped to load or unload passengers. In some cities where there are safety zones, automobiles are per- mitted to pass standing cars if they do so slowly and at least eight feet from the side of the car. People who have just alighted from a trolley ocar are sometimes be- wildered and do not know which way to go. Give them plenty of time to get their bearings before attempting to pass them. 12 OPERATION

Be especially careful at crossings where there is more than one track. Do not cross directly behind a train that has just passed. Another train may be coming from (0 the opposite direction on the next track.

Automobile drivers must be especially careful to avoid injuring people who cross in the middle of the block. Many accidents also occur at regular street crossings. If the pedestrians do not, or will not, pay attention to your horn, remember that hundreds of people are using the streets whose old age, youth, infirmities or physical defect would throw all the responsibility of an accident upon you.

Parking

If the car is properly handled it is possible to park in a small space with very little effort. First, drive up along- side of and parallel with the car ahead. Then turn the wheels sharply to the right.

Back up until the right front fender of your car just clears the left rear fender of the car ahead.

Then turn the wheels sharply to the left and continue backing slowly until into position alongside of the curb.

Do not park so close to a corner that it will interfere with drivers wishing to make a right-hand turn. Park close to the curb and keep the prescribed distance away from fire hydrants. When leaving the car standing on a hill or incline of any kind, always apply the parking brake firmly and, if necessary, block the •wheels. It will also add consider- ably to the safety of the car to cramp the front wheels toward the side of the road, or to leave the transmission in the low-gear position. OPERATION 13

To Start the Engine Position of Controls Make sure the gear shift lever is in the neutral or central position. Set the throttle lever about one-fourth open. Set the spark lever about halfway between the fully advanced and re- tarded positions. Pull the carburetor dash control button "C" all the way out if the e.ngineis cold. Unlock the steering gear lock, and make sure that the switch on the right side of the lock is turned on. (See page 7.) Depress the clutch pedal. Starter Switch With the controls set as above, press down the starter •switch. If the engine does not start within a few seconds,stop and investigate. Continued use of the starter will drain the battery. After Engine Starts The instant the engine starts on its own power, release the starter switch. Close the throttle lever somewhatso that the engine is not racing. Advance the spark. Release the clutch pedal. Push in the Carburetordash control button "C" as far as possible, without stopping the engine. When the engine warms up, push it clear in. See if the oil pressure gauge is registering. If not, stop the engine and refer to explanation under "Engine Oil Pressure Gauge," page 20. Cranking Engine by Hand If it is desired to Crankthe engine by hand, the controlsare set the same as for the operation of the starter motor. Engage the crank with the handle nearest the ground. Pull up clock- wise with a short, snappy pull. Cold Weather Suggestions In cold weather it is particularly advisableto release the clutch be- fore starting the engine. By so doing the starte.r motor is relieved of the extra load resulting from turning the transmission gears. Use the starter as little as possible. In cold weather the battery is not as efficientas in warm weather. Do not leave the carburetor dash control out any longer than necessary after the engine starts. Make sure the heat control button "H" on the dash is pulled out. Operating the Car Relation of Controls The gear shift lever, clutch pedal and foot accelerator have a definite relation to each other, and quite often must all be operated together. Never move the gear shift lever without first disengaging the clutch. OPER AT 1 0 N Gear First release at Disengage the parking brake by pressing the the top of the lever and moving the lever forward. clutch pedal. Press down on the and back. (See Fig. 1, Move the gear shift lever to the left Illus. No. 4, page 57.) pressure on the clutch pedal, at the same time gradually Slowly release accelerator. pressing down on the foot eight miles per hour. Accelerateand run the car at from four to Second Gear Disengage the clutch. forward At the same time move the gear shift lever to neutral, con. tinuing to the right and forward into second gear. (See Fig. 2.) Slowly release pressure on the clutch pedal, at the same time gradually pressing down on the foot accelerator. Accelerateand run the car at from eight to fifteen miles per hour. Third or High Gear Disengage the clutch. At the same time move the gear shift lever straight back hesitating momentarilyin neutral before pulling the lever into the high gear posi- tion. (See Fig. 3.) Then engage the clutch gradually and accelerate the engine as re. quired. This gear is used in all ordinary driving. To Stop the Car Throw out the clutch and press on the brake pedal just hard enough to bring the car to a gradual stop. At the same time move the gear shift lever to the neutral position. The clutch may now be engaged. Set the parking brake after the car has stopped, if it is to be left stand- ing. To Reverse the Car First, stop the car. Disengage the clutch. Move the gear shift lever to the left and forward. (See Fig. 4, Illus. No. 4.) Gradually engage the clutch and accelerate as before. ligh to Second Gear Shifting from high to second gear ordinarily should be done only fter the car speed has been reduced to approximately eight miles per our. This shift should also be made before the actual necessity arises , possible,in order to prevent stalling the car. Disengage the clutch. Accelerate the engine slightly. OPERATION 15

Push the gear shift lever straight forward to the secondgear position and engage the clutch. If it is found necessaryto shift from high to second gear at a car speed above eight miles per hour, the double clutching operation de- scribed in the following paragraph should be followed. Double Cluiching—The double clutching operation described below, while at first a little more difficultto perform, will make the shift smoother at the higher speeds. Disengage the clutch, at the same time moving the gear shift lever forward into the neutral position. Engage the clutch. Accelerate the engine slightly. Disengage the clutch and immediatelypush the gear shift lever for- ward to the second gear position and engage the clutch. The shift from second to first gear is made in a similar manner. To Stop the Engine First, stop the car. Turn the lever on the right-hand side of the steering gear lock until the word "Off" appears in the slot in the lock face. If it is desired to lock the car, turn the key in the steering gear lock until the word "Locked" appears in the slot.

Obtain a copy of your local traffc ordinances from the Police Department. CARE SIX SIX MONTHS WEEKS SIX O-OIL O-GREASE WEEKS Six GO-GREASE GUN MONTHS

12

14

15 16 9 SPECIAL GREASE 17 10

18

SPECIAL GREASE 19

SPECIAL GREASE 20

21

NOTE—PERIOD OF SIX WEEKS IS CONSIDERED EQUAL TO 2500MILES USE OF CAR. IF CAR IS DRIVEN FURTHER THAN THIS IN SIX WEEKS TIME BE SURE TO LUBRICATE AT THE 2500MILE PERIOD OR OFTENER IF DESIRED LUBRICATION CHART (131 inch wheelbase model shown. Lubrication points on 121 inch chassis are the same.) CARE 17

Chassis Lubrication (See Lubrication Chart on Opposite Page, Also Page 18 For 'Grades Of Oils and Greases To Use.) 1. Left front brake shaft universals. Grease gun fitting. 2. Left steering knuckle. Fill cup with engine oil. 3. Left front wheel bearing. Fill hub cap. 4. Left end of steering cross tube. Grease gun fitting. 5. Reach rod, screw plugs. Remove plug indicated and fill with me- dium cold test engine oil. Remove plug at rear end to allow air to escape while filling. 6. Generator. Oil the commutator end sparingly so that oil does not get on the commutator. 7. Water Pump. Grease cup. See page 18. 8. Horn. Oil sparingly so that oil does not get on commutator. Use light oil. See page 24. 9. Steering gear. Remove screw plug and fill housing to level of small hole in steering post jacket. See page 18 for special lubricant. 10. Starter Motor. Oil the commutator end sparingly so that oil does not get on the commutator. 11. Rear axle shaft bearing. Grease cup. 12. Right front brake shaft universals. Grease gun fitting. 13. Right front wheel bearing. Fill hub cap. 14. Right steering knuckle. Fill cup with engine oil. 15. Right end of steering cross tube. Grease gun fitting. 16. Fan bearing. Remove screw plug and fill hub with engine oil. 17. Ignition distributor and shaft. Oil wick and grease cup. Put a few drops of light engine oil on the wick in the distributor and fill the distributor shaft grease cup. 18. Clutch release bearing. The grease cup should not be turned more than one Curnat one greasing, see page 26. 19. Front universal joint, screw plug. Do not fill more than one-third full, which is approximately 2 ounces of lubricant. 20. Rear universal joint, screw plug. Do not fill more than one-third full, which is approximately 2 ounces of lubricant. 21. Rear axle shaft bearing. Grease cup. NOTE—The engine oil should be checked daily and changed according to the instructions given on page 19. Check battery water level every two weeks. Use clean distilled water. Fill transmission and differential to level of filler plug hole every 10,000miles. See page 18 for proper grade of lubricant. The spring shackles should be inspected and packed with lubricant once a year. A 24 x 36—inchwall chart, showing the complete chassis lubrication in detail will; be furnished on request. Address request to The Studebaker Corporation of America, South Bend, Indiana. (Be sure to state model car when ordering chart.) 18

General Lubrication Information Oils and Grease To Use—Useonly the best oil and grease and refer Engine—Any good engine oil of recognized high quality. For results use a mediumgrade in warm weather. It is imperative best light, cold-test oil be used in cold weather. that a Rear Axle—A li(Yhttransmission grease or a heavy transmission oil for warm weather. In cold weather a lighter cyradeof winter lubricant should be used. Transmission—Alight transmissiongrease or a heavy transmission oil for warm weather. In cold weather a lighter grade of winter lubri_ cant should be used. Universal Joints—Spicer Universal Joint Grease, or equivalent. Steering Gear—Sunoco Steering Gear Compound, heavy in, SUmmer and light in winter; Standard Oil Steering Gear Grease No. 20. Whitamore's Steering Gear Grease No. 65. , or Reach Rod—A mediumto heavy cold test engine oil. Oil Cups and Oil Holes—A medium engine oil, except on electrical equipment where a high-grade, light engine oil should be used. Grease Cups, Grease Gun Fittings and Wheel Bearings—Alight cup grease. Generator and Starter Bearings—Ahigh-grade, light engine oil. Water Pump—Kasson's Compound,manufactured by the Enterprise Oil Company, Buffalo, N. Y.

Use the very best grease and oil you can buy. It will prove economical. CARE 19

Il Engine Lubrication Change Oil Frequently The engine oil should be completely changed after the first 500 miles the car is driven. The second oil change should be made at the end of 1,000 miles driving and every 2,500 miles thereafter. Cars which are driven only short distances in cold weather, however, are subject to ex- treme oil dilution and require more frequent oil changes. Under these conditions the oil should be changed every 500 to 800 miles. To drain the oil, place a pail under the drain plug in the oil pan, insert the end of the jack handle into the drain plug and unscrew and re- move the plug. Be very careful to allow all the oil to drain out, then screw in the drain plug until it is tight and refill the pan with new oil.

Quantity of Oil The quantity of oil in the oil pan is shown by the oil level indicator in the left-hand side of the crankcase. Pull out rod, wipe it clean and put it back, being sure to push it clear down. Pull it out again and the amount of oil in the oil pan will be indicated by the height of oil on the rod. Empty and full positions are shown by grooves. Keep the oil as near the full position as possible.

How to Avoid Oil Dilution and Sludge Formation Avoid excessive use of the carburetor dash contro.l. After starting give the engine time to warm up somewhat before driving. Use a radiator cover during the winter to allow the engine to warm up more rapidly and also to run at a higher temperature. A cold run- ning engine acquires dilution much more rapidly than a hot one because all the fuel injected into the cylinders does not burn. Some of it finds its way into the oil pan. Heat aids vaporization and promotes perfect com- bustion. A radiator cover will also reduce water formation in the crankcase. Water, if allowed to collect in the oil circulating system, will pocket and freeze very readily, stopping the circulation of oil. Avoid idling for long periods or excessive slow driving. Very low speeds tend to increase the dilution of the oil. Change the oil as recommendedunder "Change Oil Frequently." Remove the oil pan every six months and clean it thoroughly. In extremely cold weather it may be advisableto do this more often. The fuel has something to do with water accumulationand oil dilu- tion. High test gasoline generally gives better satisfaction in cold weather as the engine warms up more quickly. If sludging should occur, make sure that the last trace of the forma- tion is cleaned from the crankcase before renewing the oil. Remove the oil pan and clean it and the inside of the crankcase thoroughly. If this is not properly done sludge will be formed in the new oil with surprising rapidity. 20 CARE Engine Oil Pressure Gauge at high The gauge should read not less than "30" speeds after the oil is warm. on speeding up the If it shows no reading whatever engine above ten miles per hour, stop the engine immediately. To determine the cause first examine the oil reservoir by means of the oil level indicator in the left-hand side of the crankcase. If there is no oil, the reservoir should be filled immediately. The gauge should now show pressure while the engine is running at speeds above ten miles per hour. If it does not, remove the relief valve (See Illus. No. 2, Page 55) and clean it out thoroughly. If the gauge still does not show pressure, refer the matter to a Studebaker-Erskine dealer. Carbon Deposits The formation collecting in the combustion chamber of a gasoline engine is known as carbon. This is largely the result of the natural combustionof the gasoline and oil. It is to be expected then, that carbon will collect to some degree in every engine, and must be cleaned out occasionally. No attempt should be made to remove carbon, however, until there is evidence of the necessity for this operation. It is advisable to consult a Studebaker-Erskinedealer regarding this, as much harm and needless expense can be caused by inexperienced mechanics. The carbon should always be removed with the cylinder head off. Page 33 explains the operations necessary for this. Although carbon deposits are to be expected in any engine, they may be held to a minimum by carefully observing the following points: Use nothing but the highest quality oil of the proper body and char- acter. The recommendations of the leading oil manufacturers may be relied upon. Examine the oil level indicator daily and keep the oil at the proper level. Do not overfill. Overfilling causes over-oiling and carbon forma- tion. Do not, to increase the oil pressure, shift to an oil heavier than is recommended. Extreme dilution of the oil (due to neglecting to change the oil at proper intervals) may cause the pressure to drop. This, of course, is remedied by draining the oil and refilling with new oil of the correct grade. The indiscriminate use of heavy bodied or low quality lubricant is a most frequent cause of fouling spark plugs, sticking valves, prolific carbon formation and "carbon knock" or detonation. Be sure that the carburetor is properly adjusted and do not drive with the carburetor dash control out any longer than is necessary. With a rich mixture, carbon forms from the incomplete combustionof both oil and gasoline, and the excess fuel dilutes the oil. "Missing" of the engine promotes over-oiling and carbon formation, inasmuch as there is incompletecombustion and carbon forms in about the same manner as with a rich mixture. Compression losses lower the efficiency of combustion and the•ability of the burning fuel charge to dispose of the excess oil. Therefore, keep CARE 21

the valves properly ground in, the tappets properly adjusted, cylinder head gasket tight, and use the correct grade of engine oil. Cooling System Capacity The capacity of the cooling system is five gallons, one quart. Filling Radiator Care should be taken to keep the radiator full at all times. The use of clean, soft water is preferable and will keep the formation of sedi- ment and scale at a minimum. Winter Care An anti-freeze solution should be used for winter" driving. A very satisfactory solution is one of denatured alcohol and water. Following is a table of denatured alcohol solution freezing points : Denatured Alcohol Water Begins to Freeze at (By Volume) (By Volume) (Degrees Fahr.)

19 10 40 % —2 —18 Distilled glycerine may also be used in preparing an anti-freeze mix- ture. The initial cost is greater than alcohol but it has the advantage of not evaporating-so that in a season's running it is likely to prove less expensive than alcohol. Be sure to use distilled glycerine and not the ordinary commercial grade. If it is desired to use glycerine,it should•be mixed accordingto the following table : Distilled Glycerine Water Begins to Freeze at (By Volume) (By Volume) (Degrees Fahr.) % 15% 85 25 25% 18 35% 65% 6 40% 0 45% —15 When mixing the solution,always drain the water from the radiator, mix the ingredients in a separate container and fill the radiator with this mixture. This is important to insure mixing the solution thoroughly. If alcohol is. used it will occasionallybe necessary to replenish with additional mixture due to evaporation of the alcohol. In this case, fill the radiator with a mixture containing a slightly larger proportion of alcohol. If glycerine is used only water need be added to maintain the proper level. When filling the radiator with alcohol solution be very careful not to spill any on the hood as it will cause the lacquer to fade wherever it 22

touches. However, if this should happen, polishing the hood This cannot occur when using a glycerine solution. To Drain the CoolingSystem For all ordinary purposes the cooling system may be drained by ing the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator. However, open. necessary if it is found to completely drain the cooling system as for freezing temperatures, storage not only the cock at the bottom of the but also a drain cock located in the radiator rear left side of the cylinder must be removed, as draining the radiator alone will block not completely

CleaningRadiator Do not attempt to clean the radiator externally by poking the dirt Raise the hood and wash out the dirt with a strong out stream of water from Do not attach licenseplates or other heavy objects to the radiator. Every three months clean the engine cooling system by draining the radiator and refilling it with clean, hot water. Add a half teacupfulof Run the engine for five minutes. Drain the radiator and flush it two or three times with clean running the engine for a few minutes each time. water, Tightening Water Pump Packing Nut There is a packing nut at the water pump shaft to prevent water ing out. (Illus. No. 3, page 56.) leak- To stop a leak, turn the nut in the same direction the shaft to the point where the leak turns, just stops. This should be done with the engine not running. Do not draw the nut too tight. If the leak does not stop with a moderate tightening, see re-packing the nut. page 37 for Adjusting Fan Belt To adjust the fan belt, loosen the nut in back of the fan bracket (Illus. No. 3, page 56.) To tighten the fan belt, raise the fan Do assembly. not draw the fan belt too tight as this will cause undue wear in the fan and generator bearing. A proper adjustment is obtainedwhen it is just possible to rotate the fan with the belt held stationary. After obtaining the proper adjustment, be sure to tighten the cap screw. CARE 23

Gasoline System Gasoline Tank Great care should be taken in filling the tank that no lint or dirt of any kind gets into it. See that the vent hole in the filler cap is free from dirt at all times. Water and foreign matter can be cleaned out at the drain plug in the bcttom of the tank. Capacity The capacity of the gasoline tank is approximatelyseventeen gallons. Fuel Pump The fuel pump requires no attention or adjustment of any kind other than to keep all connectionstight. In case this unit does not function properly the car should be taken to a Studebaker-Erskinedealer. Electrical System Starter Motor Apply a few drops of light oil to the oilers as instructed in the lubri• cation chart on page 16. See also Illus. No. 14, page 61. Starter Switch The starter switch requires no attention except to keep the terminals clean and tight and a few drops of oil on the operating linkage oc- casionally. Generator Little attention is required except to put a few drops of light oil in the oilers. (Illus. No. 13, page 60.) Care should be taken not to apply so much at the commutator end that it will work onto the commutator and brushes. (See lubrication chart, page 16.) The brushes are self-lubricating. Ammeter The ammeter requires no care other than to keep the terminals tight. Watch the readings closely. When the engine is turning over very slowly or is idle with the lights on, the instrument should read "Discharge." At speeds above ten miles an hour in high gear with no lights on, it should read "Charge." With all lights on, it will require a speed of fourteen to fifteen miles per hour to indicate "Charge." If the instrument does not register as above, refer the matter to a Studebaker-Erskine dealer. 24 CARE Relay The relay requires no other care than to see that the kept tight. terminals Be sure that the screws holding the relay are tight. Otherwiaethe Ignition Distributor The rotating segment of the distributor should be removed few drops of light oil applied to the felt wicking in the distributor cam Fill the grease cup on the outside of the distributor according to the Spark Plugs To clean a spark plug disassemble it by removing the Scrape the carbon from the gland nut. shell. With a cloth saturated with gasoline clean the porcelain. Never scrape the porcelain as short circuit. this will cause a When reassembling make sure that there is a gasket each side of the porcelain shoulder and also one between on head and the plug. the cylinder Space the spark plug points at .025of an inch. Horn The Sparton Chime horn must be lubricated once each month, light, fine oil (do not use engine oil). To oil, using in the top remove the threaded plug of the housing and fill the chamber above the wicking. remove the motor cover screw at Also the the bottom of the motor cover, remove cover, and saturate the felt below the armature with No. 7, page 58. oil. See Illus. Head Lamps To remove the head lamp door, loosen the screw at the bottom of the door. Pull out on the bottom of the door slightly, unhook• it at the top. then lift up to To clean the head lamp reflector, use powdered with a chamois dry rouge. Apply skin, polishing with circular motion. If the reflector tarnished, moisten the rouge with alcohol. is Great care must be taken not to scratch the reflector. The chamois should not be used for any other purpose. Storage Battery Register the Battery—When a new car IS purchased, the owner should go to the nearest Willard Service Station immediately and have the battery registered in order to take advantage of the IVillard 90-day insurance policy. Also ask for a Service Card on which the registration date will be written. If you buy a WVillard battery to replace the one you now have it will be registered CARE 25

Filling Battery—keep all cells filled with distilled water to a level three-eighthsof an inch above the top of the plates. Never fill above that level. Use a hydrometer to fill the battery. (Illus. No. 8, page 58.) When filling, if one cell takes considerably more water then others, this usually indicates a broken jar and the battery should be taken or sent to a Willard Service Station. Unless repaired immediately,the battery may be ruined. Never put any foreign substance or "Quick Charging" solutions in the battery. Use nothing but distilledwater. Testing Battery—Test all cells with a hydrometer on the first and fifteenth of every month. Fully charged cells should read between 1.280 and 1.300. (Illus. No. 9, page 58.) In taking these readings, care should be exercisedto return the electrolyte from the hydrometer syringe to the same battery cell from which it was taken. The specific gravity should be tested immediately after the battery is charged and before the distilled water is added. Cold Weather Suggestions—In order to prevent freezing in cold weather, test the battery frequently and see that the gravity is kept as near 1.280as possible. A fully dischargedbattery will freeze at a little below freezing point. When the car stands in an unheated garage in the winter do not fill the battery without running the engine for a short time afterward. Thus the pure water added will be mixed with the solution by the charging action. Otherwise the water, by remaining on top, would freeze at a temperature of 32 degrees Fahr. Storage—lf the car is stored, the battery should be removed and placed In storage with a Willard Service Station. A battery will slowly dis- charge when standing idle. Serious injury will result if it is not kept charged, and it is not practical to do this by running the engine when the car is not in use. General Care—keep the battery and battery compartment clean and dry. Keep the terminals clean and tight and well covered with vaseline to prevent corrosion.

Speedometer Lubrication Do not attempt to lubricate the speedometer head. This should be taken care of at a Stewart-Warner Service Station about every 10,000 miles or more. The flexible shaft driving the speedometer should b every 5,000 miles. To do this, disconnect the shaft, remove the thoroughly. Then as the core is being replaced, lubricate t loxoug y with vaseline, to which a small amount of graphite has been added. 26 CARE

Resetting Odometer Pull out the resetting stem, located at the front side of the Speedo_ tneter under the Instrument board, and turn it to the right or left as tnucll as necessary to show the figures desired. Be sure to push in again after setting. Clutch The clutch requires very little attention except to see that the clutch release bearing is kept well lubricated as shown in the Lubrication Chart. In lubricating the clutch release bearing take great care not to turn the grease cup more than one turn at one greasing, otherwise grease may work out onto the clutch causing it to grab.

Amount of Oil Transmission the proper amount of oil has been put in, it will stand just at the level of the filler hole located in the left-hand side of the transmission case. Fill periodically according to the Lubrication Chart. Renewal of Oil The transmission case should be thoroughly cleaned out twice a year. Drain off all oil. Remove the cap screws on the top of the transmission assemblyand take off the gear shift base. Thoroughly flush the gears and case with kerosene or gasoline. Replace the gear shift base and fill with new oil as in the preceding paragraph. Universal Joints Do not fill the universal joints more than about one-third full of grease, which is approximately two ounces of lubricant for each joint. To fill them full will force excess grease past the grease retainer. Use only the lubricants approved by the Studebaker-Erskine dealer.

Renewal of Oil Differential Twice a year the differentialshould be thoroughly cleaned. Remove the cover at the rear of the housing and drain out the oil.' Thoroughly flush the gears and housing with kerosene or gasoline. Replace the cover and refill with new oil. Amount of Oil The oil should stand just at the level of the oil filler in the cover at the rear of the housing. Fill periodically according to the Lubrication Chart. CARE 27

Spring Shackles The ball bearing spring shackles as installed at the factory are prop- erly adjusted and packed with grease and require no attention, other than annual inspection. It is advisable to have this inspection made at your Studebaker-Erskine service station. Springs It is necessary to tighten the clips which hold the springs to their seats after the car has been driven the first two or three hundred miles. After that they should be inspected occasionally and tightened if neces- sary. Broken springs are usually caused by loose spring clips. It is essen- tial, therefore, that they be drawn up tight at all times. If a spring is broken on the road a temporary repair may be made in order to get to the nearest garage. Jack up the frame, on the side where the spring is broken, until the body stands about level. Place a block of wood between the axle and frame and fasten it in place with wire. The block must be large enough to hold the frame up when the jack is removed. Run a heavy wire or chain from the axle to the spring front hanger and one from the axle to the spring rear shackle. This will hold the axle in alignment and the car can be driven slowly to the nearest garage. To secure best riding qualities and prevent squeaks, it is desirable to keep the springs lubricated with a good grade of graphite grease. The use of oil is not recommended. Spring Controls The shock absorbers are of the hydraulic type dependingupon fluid pressure to resist the recoil of the chassis springs. It is important that they be kept filled with a special oil, obtainable from your Studebaker dealer or the Monroe Auto Equipment Co., Monroe, Mich. Oil may be added whenever needed through the plug hole in the cover of the ab- sorber. These devices are non-adjustable but variations in riding qualities to meet extreme conditions of road and speed may be secured by substitution of different metering valves obtainable from your Studebaker-Erskine dealer. Lubrication Steering Mechanism It is important that all parts of the steering mechanismbe kept well lubricated. Refer to the Lubrication Chart for this information. Keep the steering gear housing completely filled with grease at all times. Steering Knuckles In lubricating the steering knuckles fill the cup completely so that the oil will flow to all bearing surfaces. If the steering knuckles and other parts of the steering mechanism are kept well lubricated, extrel.lely free steering will result. 28 CARE Chassis Lubrication System The Lubrication System consists of fittings at various points on car, as shown on the Lubrication Chart, page 14, through which the is forced te the bearing surface by means of a pressure gun. grease Use of Grease Gun When the gun is pressed against a fitting on the car a push pistol grip nandle developsa high on the pressure in the nozzle tube and auto. matically opens a ball check in the tube and one in the mitting fitting, per_ the lubricant to pass through into the bearing. Usually, by one full stroke of the plunger, enough lubricant is delivered to the bearing but in some instances more than one stroke may be necessary. This is especially true if air is encountered, due to improper filling, and can be remedied by tapping the nozzle end of the gun on a piece of jar the grease down. wood to Because of the cupped shape of the nozzle and the small the fitting in this flat tip of system, a grease tight seal is secured when holding the gun at any point within 12 degrees of the axis of the fitting, total effective giving a range of 25 degrees. Exact alignment between the gun and the fitting is unnecessary, but approximate alignment is recom_ mended in order to avoid exceeding the limits.

To Fill Grease Gun Remove the cap and plunger assembly (cork plunger with this will come out assembly). With an improvised paddle fill the cylinder with a good clean lubricant. To avoid air bubbles and get the full capacity of the gun, jar the grease down by tapping the nozzle end of the cylinder gently on a piece of wood. In replacing the plunger assembly,push the cork the lubricant. plunger in against

Wheels General Care See that the hub flange bolts are kept tightened and that the rear wheels are drawn tight on the axle shafts. Wire Wheels—Afteroperating the car for the first fifty to seventy- five miles, the wheels are worked in and the nuts holdindthe wheelsto the hubs should be tightened. No further adjustment is necessary. Keep the rear wheels drawn tight on the axle shafts. Lubrication To lubricate the front wheel bearings, both inner and outer, remove the wheels and spread grease on the cage holding the rollers. Also fill the hub and hub cap. Should the presence of grit be detected wash the bearings thoroughly in gasoline, dry them and repack with grease: CARE 29

Alignment To obtain ease in steering and minimum wear on the tires, it is neces- sary to keep the front wheels in alignment. They are occasionally thrown out by running against a curb and by road-ruts. If not properly lined up, excessive wear of tires will result. (See page 49.) Spare Tire Lock The spare tire lock will require little attention other than lubrication. In lubricating the lock cylinder graphite should be used in place of oil. A few drops of oil should be applied occasionally around the edge of the lock face. Be sure that the keyhole is kept covered by the cap attached to the lock face to exclude mud and water.

Tires To obtain maximum mileage and uninterrupted service from the tires it is necessary to give them care and attention. Inflation A tire must contain the proper air pressure at all times, since it is the air cushion within the tire which supports the weight of the car. Since the car is equipped with balloon tires, strict attention must be paid to the air pressure in order that they may give the real service and riding comfort of which they are capable. If they are inflated at too high pressure they will ride just as hard as any other tire, and if they are underflatedthey will be subject to most of the usual evils of under-inflation. If a high pressure tire, carrying normally 60 pounds pressure, inflated to 55 pounds, the under-inflationwould be only 8 per cent. If a balloon tire, carrying a normal pressure of 35 pounds, were under- inflated 5 pounds, the under-inflationin this case would be 15 per cent, with much more serious results to the tire. The tires should be inflated to 40 pounds front tires and 38 pounds rear tires. These pressures must be maintained and frequently checked with a low-pressure tire gauge. If the car is used more with full passenger load than otherwise, these pressures must be increased. Consult the tire companyin this case.

Tire Wear and Cuts A tire which does not run true drags with a side motion as it revolves. This has about the same effect as rubbing the tread with a rasp file—the rubber is very rapidly worn away. (See page 49 for aligning the front wheels.) Often a sharp stone, a piece of glass or iron will cut the tread, forcing dirt and moisture through the cut causing the tread to separate. Keep the small tread cuts repaired with plastic patching rubber. 30 CARE General Care In case of a flat tire, stop the car immediately. Driving on a tire without air will ruin it in a very short distance. balloon Change the tire equipment occasionally in order that spares may be kept too long out of use. not Remove grease, oil and acid from tires at once with a cloth gasoline. wet with Carry spare tubes in a bag or box, or at least wrapped in paper, to avoid chafing and similar damage from other articles. Do not use any substitute for air in the tubes. Apply the brakes gradually. Do not scrape the curb when parking.

Miscellaneous Care of Body Finish The owner should remember that his car is exposed not only to the weather, but also to road dust, mud, grease, tar and other adverse condi- tions over which neither he nor the manufacturer has any control. This fact is not generally recognized,with the result that the owner may be inclined to expect too much of the finish on his car, forgetting the many influencesworking against it the moment the service. car is put in See the following instructions to wash the car properly and preserve the finish as much as possible. Washing the Car 11 It will not be necessary to wash the body if it has only a light coat of road dust on it. This can be wiped off with a dry, soft cloth without harm to the finish. Under ordinary conditions, the finish can be kept in good condition by wiping it off once a week with a cheese cloth on which a few drops of kerosene have been placed. Do not wet the cloth, just use a few drops of kerosene. Follow this by wiping off the surface with a clean dry cloth. However, if there is coarse dirt or mud on the body, more Care must be taken in the washing operation. First allow water to run over the body from a hose without a nozzle until the body is fairly clean. Wash off the remaining dirt with a clean sponge and plenty of clear water. Dry the body with a clean, damp chamois skin. Use a straight motion from side to side or up and down rather than a circular motion during this operation. It is essential that the sponge and chamois skin be free from any grit and grease. Separate sponges and chamois skins should be used on the body and chassis. It is not advisable to wash the car while it is standing in the hot sun or while the hood is hot, as the water dries too rapidly leaving spots and streaks. CARE 31

Use of Soap Soap is not always necessary in washing the car, and in some cases may cause some harm if not properly applied. A good solution can be made by dissolving Ivory or other mild soap in boiling water. After allowing it to cool, add this concentratedsolu- tion to a pail of cool water. Never apply the soap itself directly to the body and use the above solution only when absolutely necessary to remove grease and oil as directed in these instructions. When applying soap, wash only a small portion of the body at one time. In washing off the soap do not rely upon running water alone. It is essential that a clean sponge with plenty of clean water be used to get all the soap off the body. After the soap is thoroughly rinsed off, dry the body with a clean, damp chamois skin. Removing Grease Grease can usually be removed from the body by carefully using a soap solution as above directed. On cars, where the grease is heavy, most of it can be removed with a cloth dampened (not wet) with gasoline. After this operation soapy water may be used. Do not apply gasoline to the fenders finished in enamel. RemovingTar Soak the tar spots with lubricating oil or warm lard until dissolved. Then wipe clean with a cotton flannel cloth. Any grease or oil left on the body should be washed off with soapy water as outlined above. Polishing After washing, if it is desired to polish the car, rub it vigorously with a piece of cheese cloth which has been washed and dried to remove the sizing. A clean, dry flannel may be used for the finishing touches. Use a straight motion from side to side or up and down, rather than a circular motion. It is characteristic of lacquer to improve with use and polishing with cheese cloth as above will tend to increase the luster. If, after washing, the finish should appear slightly faded, the use of a high-grade polish will restore the color. Consult your dealer in this event, and use only the polish recommended by him. Considerable damage and unsatis- factory results may be obtained by using unsuitable polish. It may be found, when polishing the body, that traces of the color will be rubbed off on the cloth. This is a normal condition and is not detrimental to the life of the finish. ChromiumPlated Parts The radiator shells, headlamps, door handles and other brightly finished parts are chromium plated. This metal does not tarnish and consequentlydoes not require any attention other than that of wash- ing when the rest of the car is washed. Cleaning Top In cleaningthe top, the best way is to wash it with Ivory or other mild soap and warm water, using a soft sponge for applying the Water. Afterwards, the soapy water should be rinsed off and the top dried with a clean, damp chamois skin. Never rub the soap directly on the top. Folding Top. In folding the top on open models the following instructions should be closely followed : The top should be carefully folded. If the material is left between the bows, it will become chafed and soon leak. Do not fold while wet. Attach the top boot to the rear of body between the top bow holders. Unfasten the gypsy curtains from body and top bow, and fold them back against the inner side of the rear curtain. Fold the top down, pulling the top deck straight out and making sure that no material is left between bows. Roll up the top deck and place it between the front and back bows of the top. The top boot can now be placed in position. When raising the top remove the top boot, unroll the top deck and throw it forward over the bows. Do not let it unroll and hang down towards the ground. The top may be raised by pushing it up in back with both hands. Then step on the running board, grasp the top bow with one hand and push the second top bow up and forward with the other hand. The top will then fall into place and can be locked to the windshieldposts with the set screws. Side Curtains—The curtains used with the above top are fastened in position by "Lift the Dot" fasteners. These are released exactly as the name implies, by lifting the end of the fastener having a dot stamped on it. They cannot be released any other way. Never put away the curtains until they are clean and dry. Dirt will scratch the celluloid windows. Fold the curtains carefully so as to crack the windows. not Cleanliness Cleanlinessof the car in general cannot be too strongly emphasized. See that the running gear is thoroughly cleaned when the car is washed. These parts will operate much better if not allowed to become caked with dirt. Keep the upholstery, carpets and under side of the top clean. Wipe off the engine occasionallyto keep it free from excessive oil and grease which would collect dust and dirt. Periodical Inspections During the first five hundred miles a new car . is driven, a certain amount of wear takes place which is relatively greater than at any other time in the life of the car. It is essential, therefore, to have the car thoroughly inspected and tightened at this time and, although instruc- tions are given in the pages under "Adjustments"for some of these CARE 33

operations,it is advisable to take the car to the dealer to have this work performed. If the above precautionsare carried out the car will give much more satisfactory service, and the inspections thereafter need not be so frequent. Page 4 gives a list of operations which will ordinarily put the car in good conditionat this time. Lubrication The car at this time should also be thoroughly lubricated as directed by the LubricationChart. After the first inspection the Lubrication Chart should be strictly adhered to for lubrication information. The car should receive a general inspection and tightening once a week, and a thorough adjustment as outlined above once every fifteen hundred miles.

Storage If the car is not to be used for a considerablelength of time, it should be placed in storage and care taken to preserve it against deterioration. Location—A dark, dry place should be chosen, if possible one which is heated slightly. Avoid proximity to steam pipes, however. Cleaning—Wash the car as usual, being careful to get all mud off the running gear. Gasoline—Drainthe gasolinetank. Start the engine and run it until it stops. This will drain the carburetor. Remove the glass bowl from the fuel pump and allow all gasoline to drain from the pump. Engine—Remove the spark plugs and pour half a pint of heavy engine oil into the cylinders. Crank the engine over a few times with the ignition off to distribute this oil around the cylinders and valves. Drain all water from the cooling system, and make sure that the drain cock on the rear left side of the cylinder block and the cock at the bottom of the radiator are open. Storage Battery—Removethe battery and place in storage with a Willard Service Station where it will receive the necessary attention. Tires—lf the tires are removed from the car, let out most of the air and store them in a dark place. If they are left on the car, block the car up so that the weight is off the tires. Wrap the tires if exposed to light. Clean off all oil and grease with gasoline. Body—Seethat the top is clean and dry. Shut the windows in closed cars. Place a cover over the entire car. Removing From Storage On removal from storage, the operation of putting a quantity of oil 34 CARE

in the engine through the spark plug holes should be repeated, using a quarter of a pint of medium engine oil. Flush out the cooling system as describedunder "Cooling System page 19. Lubricate the entire car, accordingto the lubrication chart, page 16. Before attempting to start the engine, crank it over by hand a few times. On starting the engine, run it slowly for 30 minutes, giving it opportunity to thoroughly lubricate itself. an

Fire

Aside from the substantial premium reduction allowed by the insur- ance companies there are many reasons, from a safety standpoint, why a fire extinguisher should be carried in the car. In case of fire when no extinguisher is at hand, dirt or sand can be used to smother the flames. In no case should on a water ever be poured gasoline fire, since the gasoline, floating on the water, will continue to burn and spread the flames. Under ordinary circumstancesthere is curring. very little danger of fire oc- Nevertheless,precautions should be taken to stop all leaks in the gasoline line and not allow the carburetor to flood.

Danger of Running Engine in a Closed Garage In the exhaust of any gasoline engine there is always present carbon monoxide, a deadly poisonousgas. It is present in cording to the richness varying degrees ac- of the carburetor mixture. It is the more deadly because it gives no warning of its presence. There indication of danger is, therefore, no until it is too late. To avoid all possibility of from this gas. never run the engine in death moments. the garage more than a few Make all adjustments outside. The antidote for is fresh air and artificial respiration. this poison ADJUSTMENTS Firing Order. Engine The firing order of the engine is front cylinder. 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4,Number 1 being the

Removing Carbon. To remove the carbon, drain head by the radiator, and take off the cylinder removing the cap screws which not to damage the gasket. hold it in place, being careful The carbon can be scraped and the top of the cylinder block from the pistons by cranking the engine until the pistons are at top dead center. It likewise can It is well to brush the be scråped off the cylinder head. surface thoroughly as a polished chamber will aid greatly in reducing combustion is left in the carbon deposits. See that no loose carbon engine, particularly around In replacingthe gasket it the valve seats. is well to spread a thin layer of grease on it. Unless the gasket is in exceptionallygood to use a new one. In bolting condition,it is advisable on the cylinder head be careful to draw it down gradually and equally so as to prevent the gasket. distortion of the head or Leaky Valves. The most frequent cause of leaky valves is valve seats. These carbon deposits on the deposits prevent the valves from closing properly and permit hot gases to burn over the polished consequent pitting. faces of the valves, with Grinding Valves. First remove the cylinder head. Then by using a valve pressor, the spring com- spring can be held compressed,allowing the. retainer to be released. The valve can then be drawn out and the spring removed. and retainer After the valves have been taken out, remove all carbon from the heads and stems. Wash them in gasoline and, if necessary, use fine emery cloth to clean the stems. If the stems are not free from carbon or grit, excessivewear may take place on the valve stems and the guides. Make sure that the valves, which are numbered,are kept in order after cleaning, and that grinding is done in the same seats from which the valves are removed. This should also be adhered to when replac- ing the valves after grinding. It is important to use the best grinding material obtainable. There are several prepared valve-grinding compounds on the market which can be purchased at any accessory store. Spread the compound thinly on the valve face. Place a light spring around the valve stem before putting the valve into place for grinding. A screw driver or a special valve-grindingtool can be used to turn the valve. Give it a half revolutionto the right and another half revolution to the left, several times, and then lift the valve, allowing the abrasive to work down on the seat. Upon repeating the operation give the valve a different position relative to the valve 35