Sparkling wines

Success bubbles up

‘Argentinian extra brut in South America and brut styles make The sparkling wine scene in South America is currently booming. Alejandro Iglesias finds out what’s driving it and recommends bottles slightly drier alternatives from the leading names in Argentina, Brazil, Chile and Uruguay to Prosecco’

Around the world, the consumption of keen to travel to Europe, where they acquired Typical sparkling styles produced in sparkling wines is rising like bubbles in a a taste for luxuries such as Champagne. Over Argentina are a reflection of those found in glass, driven by the luxury goods market, new time, Argentina, Chile, Brazil and Uruguay Champagne, although these wines display drinking habits and emerging economies. each developed their own sparkling styles more moderate acidity than Champagne According to research by the International according to local tastes and preferences, with drinkers will be accustomed to. The most Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), sales Champagne as a reference. ‘South American popular sweetness category is extra brut increased by 30% between 2003 and 2013, sparkling wines now have an important which, according to Argentinian legislation, while production was up 40% – that’s six times opportunity in the world, not as competitors allows up to 11g of residual sugar per litre, more than the growth for still wines. of traditional brands, but as an alternative for while other options include brut nature (up What’s more, Champagne is no longer the those seeking new expressions,’ adds Otaño. to 7g/l) and doux (over 40g/l). default sparkling choice for many wine lovers. Argentinian extra brut and brut styles Since Cava and Prosecco have democratised Argentina make slightly drier alternatives to the category, producers in other wine-growing The largest sparkling player in South America Prosecco, while cuveé prestige and brut regions – including South America – have by far is Argentina, the only country from the nature sparklers can even surprise decided to get in on the act. region to make it into the top 10 sparkling die-hard Champagne lovers. ‘In With an annual production of 90 million wine producers in the world by volume, with Argentina we have substantial bottles – just under a third of the annual around 50 million bottles per year. experience in the traditional method output from Champagne – Argentina, Brazil, The country has become a reference for of second fermentation in the bottle, Chile and Uruguay offer sparkling wines that South American sparkling wine, largely because people here have been can seduce the most conservative of wine thanks to its long sparkling heritage – dating drinking quality sparkling wines for drinkers, as well as those looking for more back to the arrival of Moët & Chandon in a long time,’ says Alejandro offbeat styles. These wines have found an Mendoza’s Uco Valley, for the inauguration of Martínez Rosell of Rosell Boher, a enthusiastic reception at home – up to 80% of Chandon Argentina, the company’s first winery that began promoting wines produced never leave their native shores subsidiary outside France, in 1959. This not premium Argentinian sparkling – which perhaps helps to explain why they only sparked a growth in domestic demand, wines in 1999. have a lower profile in other countries than but also paved the way for Argentinian Although sparkling wines have they deserve. sparkling wines to achieve international historically been produced across ‘Latin America is a market with a high standards of quality. Crucially it also piqued all regions of Argentina, the Uco consumption of sparkling wines and the interest of other major producers, and over Valley is considered to be the source Champagne,’ says Ramiro Otaño, regional the years, GH Mumm, Codorniú and Freixenet of the country’s best examples. Its managing director of Moët Hennessy Latin – among others – have all invested in sparkling vineyards are located between America & Caribbean. He highlights the wine projects in Argentina. 1,000m and 1,600m altitude, with a excellent quality of the wines, the diversity of In the past, Semillon and Chenin Blanc were lot of sunshine, stony soils and a styles that are being made and a long sparkling used to make sparkling wines, but today the cool mountain climate that ensures winemaking tradition in the region as strong most widely planted grapes are Chardonnay ideal ripeness and natural acidity. selling points when it comes to spreading the and Pinot Noir, which are commonly blended There are also promising new message more widely. in a Champagne-style cuvée. Those looking for regions, especially the coastal Production of sparkling wine in South a more distinctively Latin flavour can seek out vineyards near Mar del Plata, south America dates back to the early 20th century, wines made with Torrontés, or sparkling rosés of Buenos Aires. Trapiche owns when wineries responded to a growing local from Malbec and Bonarda. Exciting examples Bodega Costa & Pampa winery here, demand for Champagne. At that time an to try include Tapiz Torrontés Extra Brut NV with only 25.5ha of vineyard, industrial boom had created a newly wealthy and the vintage Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda around 20ha of which is in middle class of Latin Americans, who were Rosé Brut Nature. production and planted mainly ➢

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with white grapes. The Costa & Pampa Extra the 79,000ha of vineyards are planted with Brut and Brut Rosé are thrilling sparklers. just four grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, It’s important to note that Argentinian Riesling Itálico and Moscatel. Influenced by sparkling wines have also been making waves cool ocean breezes, the vineyards are located on the international scene, with several labels at between 300m and 800m above sea level, triumphing in international competitions. on slopes of volcanic soil, giving a fresh, Cruzat Cuvée Réserve Rosé was awarded a mineral character to the wines. Trophy for the Best in Show Sparkling Under The most common production method here £15 in DWWA 2014. Meanwhile in the 2017 is Charmat, with brut and extra brut the most edition of the Champagne & Sparkling Wine popular styles for dry sparkling wines. The World Championships, Chandon Rosé NV was Moscatel grape is synonymous with fruity named World Champion Rosé. The most wines that are simple, fresh and sweet, made surprising accolade, however, was the success with Prosecco in mind. of Bodega Bianchi’s Stradivarius Extra Brut Fuelled by the arrival of Moët & Chandon in Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 in the renowned 1973 – who founded Chandon Brazil in the Effervescents du Monde competition in 2009. town of Garibaldi in the foothills of the Serra founded Cave Geisse in the Serra Gaúcha. Above left: harvest sparkling wine arena. Although some wineries It ranked sixth in the list of 10 best sparkling Gaúcha, a mountainous region located in Its range shows the potential of the region time at Argentina’s – such as Valdivieso and Undurraga – do have wines tasted that year. H Schroeder Extra Brut, northeastern Rio Grande do Sul – production for the production of high-end wines, Bodega Cruzat a long tradition of making sparkling wines, produced in Patagonia by Familia Schroeder, of Brazilian sparkling wines now stands at especially Cave Geisse Terroir Nature. ‘The Above right: Mario production has only accelerated in the last five repeated that success in the 2017 edition of around 20 million bottles annually, according Serra Gaúcha is a very complex region with Geisse of Cave Geisse years. ‘Until a few years ago, we defined the competition, ranking 10th. to Wines of Brazil. Among the leading names different micro-terroirs. The future of our in Serra Gaúcha, Brazil ourselves as importers of sparkling wines, but are Miolo, Salton, Aurora, Peterlongo and wines lies in the interpretation of these today our intention is to reach the world with Brazil Valduga – but there are also many exciting diverse soils, climates and altitudes,’ explains our own bottles,’ says Cristián Rodríguez Festivity, joy and celebration are all reasons to smaller producers to look out for. Geisse, whose wines come from the GI Pinto Larraín, general manager of Emiliana, who is enjoy a glass of sparkling wine – and these are Among these is Mario Geisse, a Chilean Bandeira, the leading region for production of delighted by the growing demand for Emiliana very much part of the Brazilian DNA. So it’s no winemaker who arrived in 1976 to manage traditional-method sparkling wines. Organic Brut in export markets. surprise that the wine scene in Brazil is big on the vineyards of Chandon Brazil. In 1979 he Many of Chile’s sparkling wines are made bubbly. Most sparkling wine production Chile with grapes from vineyards planted in the happens in the region of Rio Grande do Sul, Left: Chandon Rosé NV from Argentina scooped Renowned for its energetic reds and vibrant same valleys that gave worldwide recognition the southernmost state of Brazil. Here, 90% of the impressive title of 2017 World Champion Rosé whites, Chile is a relative newcomer to the to the country’s white wines, namely: ➢

Sparkling style: Iglesias picks his top fizz buys and bready notes, brioche, rose and citrus. fine bubbles. A significant presence of £14.99 Hoults, Soho Wine Supply, Taylor’s Fine Rosell Boher, Grande Cuveé crust, yeast and dry stone fruits. A creamy Sebastian Zuccardi’s 100% Chardonnay A rich mousse, but the finish is refreshing yeasts and nutty aromas. On the palate it is Wine, The Bottle Stop, Trina’s Wines Millésimée, Uco Valley, palate but delicate with a dry finish. This sparkler comes from vineyards in San Pablo, and dry. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12% complex and tasty, with a medium body and Pale pink with lively bubbles. Expressive, Mendoza, Argentina 2014 wine is a gem. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 12% an extreme and cool terroir located in the dry finish. Offers great quality for the price. fresh red fruit character that’s slightly rustic 94 Uco Valley. Pale lemon in colour with zippy Cruzat, Cuvée Nature, Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12.5% but seductive and original, with the style of N/A UK www.rosellboher.com Cave Geisse, Extra Brut, bubbles in the glass. Deep aromas of citrus Tupungato, Uco Valley, the País variety. Vibrant and fruity mid- The eighth release of Alejandro Pinto Bandeira, Serra and floral notes, alongside fresh yeast and Mendoza, Argentina NV 92 Gouguenheim, Malbec palate, creamy and refreshing finish. Drink Martínez Rosell’s prestige Gaúcha, Brazil 2014 93 attractive toasty hints. Boasts an agile mid- £25 Pampas Wines Bubbles Rosé, Tupungato, 2018-2023 Alc 12% cuveé, first produced in 1999. £23 Go Brazil palate, with a dry and long-lasting finish. Pale lemon with fine bubbles. Uco Valley, Mendoza, This blend of 60% Pinot Noir Mario Geisse is an expert in Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13% Expressive and fragrant on the Argentina NV 91 Pisano, Tannat Brut Nature, and 40% Chardonnay spends traditional-method bubbles. nose with fresh red fruits, citrus £12.95 Davy’s, Lanchester Wines Progreso, Canelones, 40 months on lees. A pale gold He produces this Pinot Noir and Chandon Argentina, Baron and mid-autolysis complexity. Sparkling Malbec rosés are Uruguay NV 94 colour in the glass, with lively bubbles. Chardonnay blend with 36 B Cuvée Spéciale Extra It tastes sharp and lively, with a gaining popularity in £18 Ellis of Richmond Biscuit complexity, fragrant with a creamy months of lees contact. Lemon Brut, Uco Valley, Mendoza, rich mousse, followed by fresh Argentina. This Uco Valley An exotic red sparkling wine texture, yet refreshing and dry on the finish. bright colour, boasting fine Argentina NV 92 citrus notes, vibrant acidity and example is one of the pioneers, produced by the Pisano Drink 2018-2025 Alcohol 12.5% bubbles and some autolysis N/A UK www.lvmh.com a dry finish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 12% with a pale pink colour and brothers using Tannat grapes. complexity, with notes of brioche, yeast This label is a tribute to Baron energetic bubbles. Fresh This is a limited-edition bottling Azur, Brut, Limarí Valley, Chile NV 93 and nuts. Rich and creamy mousse with an Bertrand de Ladoucette, Moët Campos de Cima, Brut Champenoise, cherries, plums and blueberries to the fore, that offers a purple colour with N/A UK www.azur.cl off-dry finish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 12% & Chandon emissary during Campanha Oriental, Rio Grande do Sul, with hints of fresh yeast, blossom and white violet bubbles. Full of plum and A traditional-method sparkler from the the 1950s, when the company Brazil 2012 91 fruits. Vibrant. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12% blueberry fruits with bready Limarí Valley. It spends 36 months on lees Zuccardi, Blanc de Blancs, Tupungato, launched Chandon Argentina. £20 Go Brazil and yeasty hints, an intense and fruity until it reaches a bright lemon colour, with Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 2012 93 It is a classic style that delivers A blend of 70% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Miguel Torres Chile, Estelado Rosé, palate with an off-dry but refreshing finish. persistent bubbles and aromas of bread £22 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent a serious Champenoise profile with yeasty Noir that displays a pale golden colour and Maule Valley, Chile 2016 91 Drink 2018-2023 Alc 13.5%

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project in Chile, located in the Limarí Valley Permitted residual sugar for sparkling styles in g/l and producing only sparkling wines. ‘Azur is the result of our quest for the best terroirs for Argentina Brazil Chile Uruguay sparkling wines,’ explains Francisco Molina, Nature 0-3 0-3 - - commercial manager of this new venture that Brut Nature 4-7 - 0-3 2-3 makes a limited production of Azur Brut, a Extra Brut 8-11 4-6 4-6 4-5 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 36 Brut 12-15 7-15 7-12 6-10 months’ ageing in the bottle. Extra Dry/Sec - - 13-17 11-20 Uruguay Dry/Sec - 16-20 18-32 - For some time, Uruguay has been promoting Demi Sec 16-40 21-60 33-50 21-25 its single-varietal red wines made with the Doux (Sweet) > 40 > 60 > 50 > 25 Tannat grape. However, wine experts are paying increasing attention to the country’s whites – particularly those from vineyards ‘Until a few years ago, Chileans defined near the Río de la Plata in the south and facing the Atlantic Ocean in the north. In these two themselves as importers of sparkling wines, areas winemakers are able to produce white wines characterised by a rich and vibrant but today our intention is to reach the world palate. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Albariño are the grape varieties showing most with our own bottles’ Cristián Rodríguez Larraín potential in these regions. Among the most recognised sparkling wine producers in Uruguay is Francisco Carrau. His Casablanca, San Antonio, Limarí and Bío Bío. Alejandro Iglesias is Sust Brut Nature is a cuvée of Pinot Noir and The key to these terroirs is their cool climate a wine writer and Chardonnay made from grapes grown in Cerro and the oceanic influence, which translate educator based in Chapeu, in northern Uruguay, on the border into good natural acidity. As in Argentina, Buenos Aires, with Brazil. The wine is a tribute to his Chardonnay and Pinot Noir take centre stage, Argentina. He is a grandfather, who produced the first sparkling although there are curiosities, such as the DWWA judge and wine in Uruguay in 1931. Santa Digna Estelado sparkling País made by Decanter contributor Another name to look out for is Viña Edén, Miguel Torres and Mujer Andina’s Levita Brut reporting on the South an enterprise in the rocky hillsides near Punta Rosé, a 100% Syrah from the Maipo Valley. American wine scene del Este, which produces two sparkling wines The most common production method is that express the mineral profile of the granite Charmat, as in Brazil, though traditional- soils of their vineyard. Meanwhile, in the method wines with long ageing on lees are region of Progreso, the nerve centre of the becoming more popular. These include the Uruguayan wine industry, the Pisano brothers new project by Rafael Guilisasti Gana, vice are making one of the most exotic wines of the chairman of Concha y Toro. Together with region, a Brut Nature Tannat. With such Franciacorta consultants and the Italian Below: Concha y Toro’s experimentation ongoing, the likelihood of winemaker, Carlo Franchini, Guilisasti is vineyards, situated in more high-quality sparkling wines starting to promoting the first dedicated sparkling wine Puente Alto in Chile emerge from Uruguay seems high. D

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