Heartbreaker NEW YORK — Like the Seventies, the Eighties Is One of Those Fashion Decades That Just Refuses to Die
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RetailersThe Inside: Pg. 9 A JUICY STRATEGY/10 KATAYONE ADELI TO CLOSE/13 WWD by ’02 Net Profits WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • April 17, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 79 $2.00 List Sportswear Heartbreaker NEW YORK — Like the Seventies, the Eighties is one of those fashion decades that just refuses to die. And one of this season’s looks borrows from Eighties’ pop music tough girl Pat Benatar. Black denim accented with zippers and leather jackets is back for fall. Here, a leather jacket and faded cotton jeans from FRX Clothing worn with a JLo by Jennifer Lopez nylon and spandex top. For more on the look, see pages 4 and 5. Troubles at Fin.part: IOR GLASSES; STYLED ROXANNE BY ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT KPMG Cites Tension, Refuses to OK Books By Amanda Kaiser MILAN — Falling.apart? The company says no, but Fin.part, the multibrand group that owns Cerruti, got a slap in the face this week when auditing firm KPMG, questioning the feasibility of its business plan and citing “financial tension” in its books, declined to certify the company’s 2002 accounts. Fin.part fired back, calling KPMG’s stance “absolutely unjustified,” and said it reserves the right to take legal action. See KPMG, Page3 PHOTO JOHN BY AQUINO; MODEL: ABIGAIL SAUM/ID; MAKEUP TOMMY BY JOINER FOR HAIR ARTISTS; MANABU BY UNNO ISHI; FOR CHRISTIAN SALON D 2 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL For fall, denim designers offer lots of black denim and sportswear accented ™ 4 with zipper trims for a hardware edge, and leather jackets for a touch of tough. Cerruti parent Fin.part got a slap this week when auditor KPMG, questioning A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 1 the feasibility of its business plan, declined to certify the firm’s 2002 accounts. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated A month after being acquired by Liz Claiborne, Juicy Couture’s founders 10 talk about growth strategies for the hot contemporary label. WWD, THURSDAY, APRILWWD, THURSDAY, 17, 2003 FASHION FORE-FRONT The WWDList: The most profitable apparel retailers of fiscal 2002, in Women crave style with sports savvy 9 descending order of actual reported net income. EYE: Amanda Hesser, author of “Cooking for Mr. Latte,” more Mediterranean Screen siren Rene Russo usually scores a and Australian Opens, were heralded as much 6 gems from Nancy Harmon Jenkins, and Tyler Florence’s book debut. hole-in-one with her movie wardrobes, and her for the strategies of the game as they were for show- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15 appearance in the popular 1990’s romantic comedy casing a fashion-forward collection of eye-catching Tin Cup was no exception. While her heart ensembles. “I think it’s great to see everybody really To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is breaking co-star Kevin Costner sent many a getting into what they're wearing, and getting [email protected], using the individual's name. woman swooning, so in fact involved in design and fashion SUBSCRIPTION RATES U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. did Ms. Russo’s golf ensem- and color,” tennis champ All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Mary Pierce commented to Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; bles, leaving female golf outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 enthusiasts wondering if they the media at one of the events. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional also could look as good on the Certainly no stranger to this issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. putting green. phenomenon is American a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., “Why can’t we love sports tennis ace Venus Williams, a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. and fashion at the same time?” whose star is rising in fashion No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be asks Deirdre, a 34-year-old almost as formidably as it has expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 attorney and weekend golfer on the court. Not only does Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 in New York City. “They Venus have a good eye for GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. shouldn’t have to be mutually color and silhouette in All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of exclusive pursuits.” selecting new tennis outfits, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Well, Deirdre, designers are but it seems she has quite the For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com listening and the proof is in hand in it as well. “Obviously, the putting, so to speak. Evi- “Today’s sportswear offers Venus Williams is well known dence the onslaught of top- structure, flexibility and movement for her performance and name design houses including to give the body an opportunity wardrobe selections on the In Brief Giorgio Armani and Ralph court, but what is probably to do what is intended for tennis, ● Lauren, along with a host of lesser known is that Venus KMART DELAY: The Chicago bankruptcy court judge oversee- golf and jogging.” ing the confirmation hearing on Kmart’s reorganization plan has others, who have launched Mike May is quite adept at sewing some opted to continue the hearing through Monday. Originally set for exclusive golf apparel collec- of these creations herself,” –Sporting Goods Manufacturing Monday and Tuesday of this week, the court session was contin- tions for customers who love Association International (SGMA) offers Joan Campbell, execu- ued into next week to give creditors and the court more time to the brand’s fit, fashion and tive vice president of the address some of the concerns raised by unsecured creditors, as femininity but crave functionality. Home Sewing Association, an organization dedi- well as take two days off for the religious holidays. As reported, Tamara Raibil, who has just launched Tegna, a cated to “getting people sewing.” some have opposed confirmation of the plan until after $367 mil- new collection of golf apparel designed exclusively But Venus isn’t the only one looking for a little lion is returned by so-called critical vendors who were paid ahead of everyone else in the bankruptcy. for women, offers her perspective. “Women want attention both in the stadium and out. Forty-one golf apparel that enhances their game and flatters percent of women admitted to the Monitor that ● ALL BETS OFF: Luciano Benetton’s sons, Rocco and Mauro, them on the course. They also want golf apparel they like to get noticed for their clothing. “There are being investigated for alleged money laundering related to that reflects their intelligence and identity off the is definitely a trend in flattering fit,” confirms the opening of the Benetton Sport Café in New York. The broth- course – while socializing in the clubhouse, run- Mike May, spokesperson for Sporting Goods Man- ers are being investigated by the Florence, Italy, district attor- ning errands on the way home, or rushing back to ufacturing Association International (SGMA), the ney. Benetton lawyers issued a statement Wednesday saying that the office,” she explains. “Tegna accomplishes this global business trade association of manufacturers their involvement was limited to participating in transactions in the Café project — the creation of a chain of theme restaurants. with feminine silhouettes and a fit that inspires and marketers of sports related businesses. “Today’s According to the statement, the Benettons ultimately did not get confidence utilizing sophisticated fabrication.” sportswear offers structure, flexibility and move- involved in the project. “The transactions were transparent and Raibil seems to have hit on an important ment to give the body an opportunity to do what is clear,” said the statement. For this reason, the lawyers say, the aspect of modern dressing; 60% of female intended for tennis, golf and jogging.” accusations against the Benettons are not “understandable” and respondents revealed to the Cotton Incorporated May asserts that when you’re in the right clothing that they have faith the investigation will clear the brothers. A Lifestyle Monitor™ that they prefer to wear one with a flattering and comfortable fit, it only Benetton spokesman declined further comment. There is no in- enhances the sports experience. “You’re more likely vestigation currently in the U.S. regarding the Benettons. comfortable outfit for different activities during Tommaso and Francesco Buti, who were arrested three years the day. “Women are looking for femininity and to focus on the activity and feel better about the ago for mismanagement of the Fashion Café chain, are also functionality,” Raibil asserts. game you played or the miles you ran,” he believes. being investigated in the same inquest. “Women are definitely looking for more mileage For those literally on the run, there are countless out of their wardrobes, and Web sites that offer the sports ● THIRD TIME LUCKY?: It’s no secret that Harrods has been they want items that are When taking up a new sport, do you: styles of the moment.